The Sun.
London, England, 1862-01-16 00:00:00

CUP.

JANUARY [6, 1862.

.RAILWAIS AND PUBLIC COMPANIES

CHARING-CROSS.

LITERATURE.

The City of the Saints, and Across the Rocky Moun-
tains to t rnia. By Richard F. Burton,
author of " A Pilgrimage to El Medinah and
Meccah. Longmans and Co.
The great city of the Salt Lake, the stronghold
of the Mormons, has been described by many
writers, all taking their own particular views, and
differing widely from each other. Notwithstand-
ing that the State or district of Utah has been
recognised by the Federal Government of the Union,
and that the fanatical followers of that clever un
principled imposter, Joseph Smith (the martyr)
have at length found a resting-place, and to a eel,
tain extent mollified their extreme hallucination--
there still exists a wide distinction between them
and other men, both in religion, customs, and
habits. Although they are looked upon with
feelings of aversion, contempt, and pity, as the
case may be, still there is something so peculiar in
the organisation of this remarkable sect, living, as,
it were (and as was desired by themselves at first)
out of the reach of civilisation other than their
own, that all take an interest iz their history.
There is something grand, too, and which com-
mands respect in the determination, devotion, and
self-sacrifice which impelled these devotees to
wander over the continent of North America, re-
pelled on every side as pariahs ; their settlements
broken up, their property destroyed, and their
families turned shelterless on the world. Cap-
tain Burton has endeavoured in his interesting
volume to depict the peculiarities of this strange
people without favour or affection. That he has
found it a hard task to arrive at even an approxi-
mation of the truth in many instances, he
informs us at the outset. The opposing witnesses
in a petty trial at the Old Bailey cannot
contradict each other more flatly than do the Mor-
mons and anti-Mormons. We may, however, corm
pliment the author on his success, as far as his
description of the country and the habits of
the inhabitants are concerned, and give him
credit for candour in the expression of his opi-
nions, although we may not coincide altogether
with them. Having determined on a visit to the
Great Salt Lake, Captain Burton made his pre-
parations—his experience of Eastern and African
travel made him well aware that a well-armed man,
if he cannot always make friends, can at least com-
mand respect. He informs us that for weapons he
carried two revolvers, besides a rifle, &c.; and he
states that from the moment of leaving St. Jo to
the time of reaching Placerville, or Sacramento, the
pistol should never be absent from a man's right
side—it is Iran iier there than on the other—nor
the bowie knife from the left. Contingencies with
Indians and others may happen, when the difference
of a second saves a man's life. Captain Burton at
some length describes the most suitable weapons
to choose for various exigencies, also particulars
regarding outfits, &r., the study of which would be
valuable to those about to undertake any expedi-
tion where civilisation is not of high order, and the
rights of meum and tuuni only theoretical. After
describing the three routes generally taken to cross
the continent, with some minuteness, and having
selected the least objectionable, the author entered
upon his travels, and departed from St. Jo on
August 7, 1860 :
TUE START.—THE MAIL COACH IN THE FAR WEST.
Tho mail is carried by a "Concord coach," a spring
waggon, comparing advantageously with the horrible vans
which once diet Tated the joints of men on the Suez route.
The body is shaped somewhat like an English tax-cart
considerably magnified. It is built to combine s ,fety,
strength, and lightness, without the slightest regard to ap-
pearances. The material is well-seasoned white oak—the
western regions and especially Utah, are notoriously defi-
der t in hard woods—and themanufacturers are well-known
coachwrights, Messrs. Abbott of Concord, N. Hampshire;
the colour is sometimes green, more usually red, causing
the antelopes to stand and stretch their large eyes whenever
the vehicle comes in sight. The wheels are five to six feet
apart, affording security against capsizing, with little
" gather" and less " dish ," the larger have 14 spokes and
seven felloes ; the smaller 12 and six. The tyres are of
unusual thickness, and polished like steel by the hard dry
grouni, and the hubs or naves and the metal nave-bands
are
in massive proportions. The latter not unfrequently
fall off as the wood shrinks, unless the wheel is allowed to
stand in water; attention must be paid to resetting them,
or in the frequent and heavy " sidlins" the spokes may
snap off all round like pipe stems. The waggon bed is sup-
ported by iron bands or perpendiculars abutting upon
wooden rockers, which rest on strong leather thorough-
braces; these are found to break the jolt better than the
best steel springs, which moreover, when injured, cannot
readily he repaired. The whole bed is covered with stout
osnaburg supported by stiff bars of white oak; there is a
sun-shade or hood in front, where the driver sits, a curtain
behind which can be raised or lowered at discretion, and
four flaps on each side either folded up or fastened down
with hooks and eyes. In heavy frost the passengers must
be half dead with cold, but they care little for that if they
can go fast. The accommodations are as follows :—ln front
sits a driver with usually a conductor or passenger by his
side ; a variety of packages, large and small, is stowed
away under his leather cushion ; when the break must be
put on, an operation often involving the safety of the
vehicle, his right foot is planted upon an iron bar which
presses by a leverage upon the rear wheels,—and in hot
weather a bucket for watering the animals hangs over one
of the lamps, whose companion is usually found wanting.
The inside has either two or three benches fronting to
the fore or placed vis-a-vis ; they are moveable and
reversible, with leather cushions and hinged padded
backs ; unstrapped and turned down they convert
the vehicle into a tolerable bed for two persons or two and
a half. According to Cocker, the mail bags should be
safely stowed away under these seats, or if there be not
room enough, the passengers should perch themselves upon
the correspondence ; the jolly driver, however, is usually
induced to cram the light literature between the waggon
bed and the platform, or running gear beneath, and thus
when ford-waters wash the hubs, the letters are pretty cer-
tain to endure ablution. Behind, instead of dicky, is a
kind of boot where passengers' boxes are stored beneath a
stout canvas curtain with leather sides. The comfort of
travel depends upon packing the waggon ; if heavy in front
or rear, or if the thoroughbracea be not properly " fixed,"
the bumping will be likely to cause nasal hsemorrhage.
The description will apply to the private ambulance, or as
it is called in the west " avalanche," only the latter, as
might be expected, is more convenient; it is the drosky
in which the vast steppes of Central America are crossed
by the Government employes.
While traversing the early stages of the journey
the author enlightens his readers upon the pecu-
liarities of the conveyance and cattle employed
on these desolate journeys. Whether for saddle or
harness, mules are preferred to horses, being more
enduring and able to overcome difficulties which
would bring a horse to a stand-still. The journey
from St. Jo to Utah is amusingly described by ex-
tracts from the author's diary. The frequent mis-
haps and contretemps such as prolonged delays at
miserable post-stations, to enable the owners to
exact as much as possible from the unfortunate
passengers, aggravated by the refusal of the driver,
on reaching stations where any chance of comfort
and good food was to be obtained, to stay longer
than was necessary to change mules. If " neces-
sity makes us acquainted with strange bed-
fellows," certainly travelling across the prairies
brings the adventurer in contact with strange
company. On arriving on one occasion at
a station, where they were led to anticipate superior
comforts, they fell into the society of the fair sex,
whom the author thus describes :

PRAIRIE BEAUTIES.
Our mishap was really worse than we expected—we
wore exposed to two "ladies," and of these one was a
Bloomer. It is only fair to state that it was the only her-
maphrodite of the kind that ever met my eyes in the United
States : the great founder of the order has long since sub-
sided into her original obscurity, and her acolytes have
relapsed into the weakness of petticoats. The Bloomer
was an uncouth being, her hair, cut level with her eyes,
depended with the graceful curl of a drake's tail around a
flat, Turanian countenance, whose only expression was
sullen insolence. The body-dress, glazed brown 'calico,
fitted her somewhat like a soldier's tunic, developing
haunches which would be admired only in venison ; and—
curious in consequence of woman's nature]—all this sacrifice
of appearance upon the shrine of comfort did not prevent
her wearing that kind of crinoline depicted by Mr. Punch
upon "our Mary Hanne." The pantalettes of glazed brown
calico; like the vest, tunic, blouse, shirt, or whatever they
may call it, were in peg-top style, admirably setting off a
pair of thin-soled Frenchified patent-leather bottines, with
elastic sides, which contained feet large, broad, and fiat as
a negro's in Unyamwezi. The dear creature had a hus-
band : it was hardly safe to look at her, and as for sketch-
ing her, I avoided it, as men
ikelnae womenrebidde in thisthenby wild
wpoedt topaarvtooidt
the way of Slick of Tennessee. The other "lady," though
more decently attired, wa
the world generally—cold and disagreeable in manner, full
of " proper pride," with a touch-me-not air, which re-
minded me of a certain

" Miss Baxter,
'Who refused a man before he axed her."
A MODEL LANDLORD.
Her husband was the renowned Slade :-
61 of gougers fierce, the eyes that pierce, the fiercest
His wagsoa tedungeorhen.'a'me for "deadly strife ;" he had the re-
putation of having killed his three men; and a few days
afterwards the grave that concealed one of his murders was
pointed out to me. This pleasant individual "for an even-
ing party" wore the revolver and bowie-knife here, there,
and everywhere. He had lately indeed had a strong
hint not to forget his weapon. One M. Jules, a French
trader, after a quarrel which took place at dinner, walked
up to him and fired a pistol, wounding him in the breast.
As he rose to run away Jules discharged a second,
which took effect upon his back, and then without giving
him time to arm, fetched a gun and favoured him with a
dose of slugs somewhat larger than revolver bullets. The
fiery Frenchman had two narrow escapes from Lynch-
lawyers; twice he was hung between waggons, and as
often he was cut down. At last he disappeared in the far-
tiler West, and took to lodge and squaw. The avenger of

_ }

blood threatens to follow him up, but as yet he has taken:no
steps.

A WESTERN HOTEL.
It once became evident that the station was conducted
upon the principle of the western hotel-keeper of the last
generation, and of continental Europe about A.D. 1500—
the innkeeper of "Anne of Geierstein"—that is to say, for
his own oonvenience ; the public there was the last thing
thought of. One of our party who had ventured into the
kitchen was fiercely ejected by the "ladies." In asking
about dormitories we were informed that " lady travellers"
were admitted into the house, but that the ruder sex must
sleep where it could—or not sleep at all if it preferred. Wu
found a barn outside; it was hardly fit fo: a decently
brought-up pig; the floor was damp and knotty; there was
not even a door to keep out the night breeze, now becoming
raw, and several drunken fellows lay in different parts of it,
Two were in one bunk, embracing maudlingly, and freely
calling for drinks of water. Into this disreputable hole we
were all thrust for the night ; amongst us, it must be re-
membered, was a federal judge, who had officiated for years
as Minister at a European court. His position, poor man I
procured him nothing but a broken-down pallet. a t was
his first trip to the Far West, and yet, so easily are Ame-
ricans satisfied, and soiaccustomed are they to obey the
ridiculous jack-in-office who claims to be one of the powers
that be, ho scarcely uttered a complaint. I for one
grumbled myself to sleep. May gracious Heaven keep us
safe from all "ladies" in future I—better a hundred times
the squaw with her uncleanliness and civility.
We are now about to leave the land of that groat and
dangerous people, the Sioux, and before bidding adieu
to them it will be advisable to devote a few pages to their
ethnology.
The admirers of Fenimore Cooper's Indian heroes
will be rather disgusted with the character which
Captain Burton gives these mighty warriors. lie
describes a war party which they met at a
camping-place, who were out on the " war-
path," but having been unsuccessful were sulky
and dangerous. "At such times one must
always be prepared for a word and a
slow ; and, indeed, most Indian fighters
justify themselves in taking the initiative, for, of
course, it is a great thing to secure the first chance.
However we !nay yearn towards our " poor black
orother," is hard not to sympathise with the
white in many aggressions against the ferocious
and capricious so-called red man. We must pass
over the various incidents of the, ourney, and at
once introduce the reader to the Salt Lake City, which
was reached after a Journey that had occupied
nineteen days, and during which period our travel-
lers had traversed not less than 1,136 statute miles.
Taken as a whole, the author was pleased with the
general appearance of the Settlement, the disposition
of which is like that of the nineteenth century New
World cities—a system of right angles, the roads,
streets, and lanes intersecting one another. " The
houses are almost of one pattern, a barn shape,
with wings and lean-tos generally facing, some-
thing turned end ways to the street, which gives a
suburban look to the settlement, and the diminutive
casements show that window glass is not yet made
in the Valley. The best houses resemble East In-
dian bungalows, with flat roofs, anti low shady
verandahs, well trelliced, and supported by posts
and pillars." In vain did the author look for the
out house-harems, certain romancers concerning
things Mormon having declared that the wives are
kept like other stock; this, however, he at once found
to be a delusion, and he concludes by de-
claring that from his first impression he consi-
ders the Mormon settlement is a vast
improvement upon its contemporaries in the
valley of the Mississippi and Missouri. Having
reached his goal, after considerable labour, Captain
Burton determined to make the best use of his
time; and during his stay of four and twenty days
he collected a considerable fund of information, but
he warns the reader that although the Mormons
are ready enough to communicate all superficial
particulars relating not only to their civil go-
vernment, but also to religious worship, it is im-
possible to fathom their inner feelings ; and he
relates what he has learned and what his own
impressions are. He then describes the peculiar fea-
tures of the city and its environs, the nature of the
country, and the climate, for particulars of which
we must refer our readers to the work itself, stating
simply that the former, although fertile in the
valleys, is pronounced by emigrants from the
Old Country to be "mean land," hard, dry, and fit
only for hard-working Mormons, scarcely one•fifth
part of it being fit for tillage ; its resources for the
purposes of grazing beiog, on the other hand, ex-
cellent. The temperature is alternately low and
high, the mercury often falling considerably below
zero in winter. Yet it cannot be doubted, says the
author, that this climate of arid heat, and dry cold,
is eminently suited to most healthy, and to many
sickly constitutions; children and adults have come
from England, apparently in a dying state, and
have lived to become strong and robust men." The
Mormon civil government seems to have a charm
for Captain Burton, which, we confess, we are at a
loss to comprehend. By his own account it com-
bines the worst features of European Governments
together with the bigotry of the middle ages, and
of the Spanish Inquisition. However, here are the
author's own words :

MORMON POLITY.
The Mormon polity is, in my humble opinion,—based
upon the fact that liberty is to mankind in mass, a burden
far heavier than slavery—the perfection of government.
It is the universal suffrage of the American States, tem-
pered by the despotism of France and Russia : in moderate
England men have nothing of it but that tory-radicalism
to which the few of extremest opiricns belong. At the
semi-annual Conferences, which take place en the 6th
April and 6th October, and last for four days, all officers,
from the President to the constable, are voted in by direc •
lion and counsel ; i.e., of the-Lord through His Prophet ;
consequently, re-election is the rule, unless the chief dic-
tator determine otherwise. Every adult male has a vote,
and all live under an iron sway. His poor single vote—
from which even the sting of ballot has been drawn—grati-
fes the dignity of the man, aad satisfies him with the
autocracy which directs him in the way he should go. He
has thus all the harmless pleasure of voting without the
danger of injuring himself by his vote. The reverse duly
carried out trees mankind from king and kaiser, and sub-
jects them to snobs and mobs. Mormon society is modelled
upon a civilised regiment ; the prophet is the colonel-com-
manding, and the grades are nicely graduated down to the
last neophyte or recruit. I know of no form of rule supe-
rior to that of Gt. S. L. City; it might supply the author
of " Happy Years at Hand" with new ideas for the " Out-
lines of the Coming Theocracy." It exerts its beneficial
effects equally upon the turbulent and independent Ameri-
can ; the sensible and self-sufficient Englishman ; the
Frenchman, ever lusting after new things; the Switzer,
with his rude love of a most problematic liberty; the out-
wardly cold, inwardly fiery, Scandanavian ; the Italian,
ready to bow down before any practice, with the one proviso
that it must be successful ; the German, who demands to be
governed by theories and Utopianisms, " worked" by pro-
fessors " out of the depths of their self-consciousness."
The most painful portion of the history
of these strange people is the blasphemous perver-
sion of the Scriptures, which the cunning founder
of this worse than heathenish fraud (we cannot call
it religion), contrived by pandering to the
basest and most sensual instincts of mankind,
to gain proselytes But passing over the im-
morality of Joe Smith's doctrines they become
ridiculous. For instance, we find on examining the
extracts taken from the Mormon Bible, on the laws
of polygamy, that under its benign authority there
are two kinds of marriages, viz. the one temporal
and the other spiritual ; the former terminates with
life, but the other endures for eternity. A pleasant
prospect this for a man blessed with a scolding
wife, or a woman with a "brute of a husband." A
woman cannot enter heaven unless introduced by
her husband, and a virgin is lost for ever. So
much for the cheat which has seduced thousands of
our countrywomen to become the property of men
equally the slaves of elders and prophets. Poly-
gamy is staunchly supported by the Mormons ; one
of the chief reasons advanced in its favour is
economy. Servants are scarce and wages propor-
tionately high at the Salt Lake, and the provident
Mormon finds it far cheaper to marry as many
women as he requires to do his household and other
work than to pay wages for hired labour. After
relating the various vicissitudes of the Mormons
and their wanderings, he shows how unintentionally
this scouted colony became of the highest impor-
tance to those crossing from the United States to
California :
The principal value of U. T. is its position as a great
halfway station—a Tadmor in the wilderness—between
the Valley of the Mississippi and the Western States Cali-
fornia and Oregon ; it has thus proved a benefit to humanity.
The " flying from civilisation and Christianity,"
attempted3mlortoons isolate themselves from the world in a moun-
tainbdleofcenkfedadesd by
tnuepsNsv;Sittthehriey were foiled, by an accident' far beyond
human foresight, They had retired to a complete oasis,
slenovwo,leganiritc by vast
which in wanindte
unin-
habitable are
deserts, and unapproachable from any settled
country, save by a painful and dangerous march of 600-
1,000 miles. Presently, in 1850, the gold fever broke out on
1 the Pacific seaboard ; thousands of people not only passed
through U. T. but were also compelled to remain there and
work for a livelihood. The transit received a fresh im-
pulse in 1858 by the gold discovered at Pike's Peak, and in
1859 by the rich silver mines found in the Carson and
\ V asho Valleys, on the eastern slopes of the Sierra Nevada.
Carson Valley, which was settled by Colonel Reece in 1852,
and colonsed in 1855 by 500 Mormons, was soon cleared of
Saints by the influx of prospectors and diggers, and the
other El Dorados drew off much Gentile population, which
was an incalculable boon to the Mormons. They thus rid
themselves of the " thriving lawyers, gamblers, prostitutes,
criminals and desperadoes, loafers and drunkards," who
made Jerusalem a carnival of horrors. The scene is now
shifted to Denver and Carson Cities, where rape and rob-
bery, intoxication and shooting are attributed to their true
causes, the gathering together of a lawless and excited
crowd, not to the " baleful shade of that deadly Upas Tree,
Mormonism."
Besides the very full accounts furnished of the
Mormons and their country, Captain Burton's work
is highly interesting and instructive in all that
relates to the Far West ; whether it be the social
conditionzool 0
go
yf
oi tfsgeography, geology,
and
or the peculiarities
of Uncle Sam's Government. The work on the
is a success, and may well take its stand with
whole the people,co u country,
Captain Burton's other interesting productions.

Captain T. R. Ward, R N., Inspector of Life-
boats to the National Lifeboat Institution, will deliver a
lecture on lifeboats at the United Servioo Institution, Scot-
land yard) to-morrow (Friday) afternoon.
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