The Sun.
London, England, 1865-01-10 00:00:00

wretchedness as the establishments of fashionable
milliners and dressmakers may present, if they are

daily inspected. It is all very well to enter the
elaborately got up show room, but every one knows
that behind that gaudy array there lurks a dark

shadow, and that human beings are sacrificed in

order that trade may flourish, and the wealthy go
forth in robes of light and beauty. It is too much

the\ fasbion to lay the blame of all this upon the
emplayets of these apprentices, but this is not fair,
nor just. They are often greatly to be reprehended
for their want of consideration, but we must look

further to comprehend the full extent of the evil.
The ladies of fashion, who go on from day to day,

intent upon nothing but frivolous schemes of variety
and extravagant notions of dress, are the ones who
should look at home, and endeavour to rectify

some of the glaring evils that now unhappily exist.
In the first place, too little time is given for the
completion of orders, and this is a very great over-
sight on the part of ladies, because they

must know something
must be taken in

of the time that
the manufacture of

the costly garments that they wear.

is not at all the same thing to say that they pay

well, because no extra hours charged can benefit the

real sufferers. Their strength is expended, their
health injured, and their comfort destroyed by these
extra hours of toil, and still they are no richer. It
is always impossible to make up by money for the
hurry, confusion, and annoyance that such short
orders entail ; and those who impatiently declare
that they cannot help it are dooming their fellow-
creatures to misery, and entailing .a fearful respon-

sibility upon themselves. The question of payment
also suggests another great mistake that is made in
these affairs—namely, the long delay in the settling
of accounts. This entails almost more harm in one

way than the shortness of the orders that are given,
- -

because if the tradesman or milliner is pressed for

money, they are not able to engage extra hands.

and the whole burden falls upon those who are en.

gaged as apprentices, or employed upon the esta

blishment. It is true that when the long standing
accounts are settled enormous profits are made ; but
this throws the whole traffic into the hands of a

few, who are rich enough to bide their time and
stand the pressure of long credit. Thus a mono-
poly is created, which is the worst thing possible
for the young apprentices, and entirely shuts out
all chance from beginners with small means. Much
might be done if the fashionable world would
become a little more alive to its duties. It

is not money that is asked for at their
hands, but justice ; and when it has

been shown that such fearful results follow upon
careless and indifferent habits, surely some attention
must be paid to the subject. Of course, there are
many that will not heed, and even if they imme-
diately beheld the consequences of their vain endea-
vours, they would not desist ; but, happily, there
are exceptions to the rule, and now, at the spring
dawn of a new season, is it too much to hope that
some change may come, some day spring may shine
on the afflicted neecllewomen ? At the best theirs
is a hard lot, and under the most favourable cir-
cumstances it is impossible but that they should
be occasionally overstated. But it is not too much
to expect that in a Christian land their case should
not be systematically slighted, and their miseries
should not be passed over with indifference and
contempt. It is a scandal upon the community
that every year should see the slaughter of these
victims to fashion's mart and pleasure's train. As
surely as the. season commences, so surely is the mar-
tyrdom renewed, and as often as gay assemblies are
the rage, and expenditure is lavished on all around,
so surely is the wretched sempstress denied rest, and
condemned to toil from which the strongest might
well shrink appalled. It is always a dangerous
thing to trust the welfare of any class to the sorry
chance of consideration, especially when it is versus
interest that may be felt by the world at large, and
hence it will be the wisest and most efficient remedy
that can be devised when the fate of these needlewomen
is not left entirely in the hands of their employers.
It has been said that it will not do to interfere with
private establishments, but why should these places
be held in that light any more than the manufacto-
ries and other spots where labour is exchanged for
money, and the master derives profit from the en-
gagements of his subordinates. If it is certain that
human life is sacrificed to such traffic, and that
hundreds are yearly incapacitated for their future
support, compelled to become a burden to their
friends, or forced to be cast upon the parish for sus-
tenance, it cannot be unsuitable for the State to
suggest a remedy, and for the Government to in-
troduce such measures as shall prevent the system
of overwork from being carried to such a pernicious
extent. Relief has been afforded in many quarters
to the oppressed artisan, the uncared-for labourer,
and the females or children who were overtasked in
their arduous vocations. Why, then, should it be
laid down as a rule that no respite can be attained
for those whose work is the most depressing of
the whole, whose hours are the longest, and
the demands the most incessant for a continuous
period. It is contrary to the principles•of justice,
and distinct from the practice of that fair play
which is supposed to be inherent in this country,
cherished by all classes, and approved of by all
trades. It is diametrically opposite to right and
reason to decide that one part of the community
should not have equal advantages as the others,
equal respite from exacting labour, and equal pro-
tection against harsh employers. Unless some de-
cided and definitive change be made this
year it will be incumbent upon those who
declare against these efforts to propose some
remedy for themselves ; but it is most likely that
, habit or custom will prove too strong for the
introduction of any beneficial alterations unless
they are carried out in a-determined manner-

Curious Classification of Odours.

As GIVEN BY M. EUGENE RIMMEL IN MS BOOK OF
PERFUMES.

. Odours belonging to the
Classes. Types. same Class.
Geranium, Sweetbriar,
Rose
Jasmine Jasmine ily of the Valley
Orange Flower Orange Flower (Acacia, Syringa, Orange
leaves
Lilly, Jonquil, Narcis-
sus, Hyacinth
'Cassie, Orris-root, Mign-
onette

Tuberose

Violet Violet 1

Balsamic Vanilla

'Balsam of Peru and Tolu,
Benzoin, Styrax, Ton-
quin Beans, Heliotrope i
Cassia, Nutmeg, Mace,
Pimento
'Carnation, Clove Pink
Rosemary, Patchouly
Vetivert, Cedar-wood
(Bergamot, Orange, Ce-
-1 drat, Limette
Spike, Thyme, Serpolet,
Marjoram
Spearmint, Balm, Rue,
Sage
Badiane, Carraway, Dill,
Coriander, Fennel
1 Laurel, Peach Kernels,
Mirbane
Civet, Musk seed, Musk
plant
Oak moss
Apple, Pine - apple,
1 Quince.

Spice
Clove
Camphor
Sandal
Citrine

Lavender

, Peppermint

Aniseed

Almond

Musk Musk
Amber Ambergris
Fruit

So THAT HE REALLY HAD ONE !—By command
of the French Emperor, the.heart of Voltaire, in-
closed in a gilt metal case, has been deposited in the
Imperial Library in Paris. The case bears the inscription
" The Heart of Voltaire, who died in Paris, the 30th of
May, 1778." Those who may be curious to see the shrine
of this relic of the Philosopher of Ferney, will find it in
the Department of Medals in the above institution.