The Sun.
London, England, 1865-09-02 00:00:00

THE SUN, LONDON, SATURDAY EVENING, SEPTEMBER .2, 1865.

riIHE WELLINGTON, St. James's-street.-
1 Set DINNERS served from Five to Eight p.m., at
2s. 6d., 3s. 6d., 4s. 6d , and 7s. each, at five minutes' notice.
Beautiful SALOON DINING ROOMS for Ladies and
Families
BREAR.PASTS and LUNCHEONS.
Private Rooms, large or small,
Prices on the "Carte" moderate.
Reading, Smoking', and Billiard Rooms.
D. CAMERON.
Entrances-160, Piccadilly, and 49, St. James's-street.
September 1, 1865.

Ci__REAT ST. JAMES'S-HALL.—WORLD of
X.JI MAGIC, Second Sight, and " Begone. Dull Care,"
every evening at 8. A Day Performance. Saturday, at 3.
" The most varied entertainment in the metropolis."—Vido
the Press. Admission, is.

a delicate blue. The slender tie-rods by which it is
bound, forming a species of iron fretwork, were of
a light buff, and from them were suspended numer-
ous baskets of flowers. Its sides were, just like the
rest of the tent of which it formed a part, lined with
striped bunting, while the head of the room, behind
the chair in which the Mayor presided, presented a
white ground, picked out with golden bars and crim-
son rosettes. In the centre was placed a bust of
the French Emperor, on one side of which, but
somewhat nearer to the ground, were displayed the
French arms between silken banners, on the other
the English arms similarly placed, save that in the
former instance the banners represented the English
standard, in the latter the French. Immediately
under the bust of the French Emperor were em-
blazoned the arms of Portsmouth—a star and cres-
cent on an azure ground. The other end of the
great tent formed, while the banquet was taking
place, a magnificent vista of flowers and shrubs, in-
terspersed with ferns, evergreens, statues, and plants.
On the left hand side of the chair, in what, properly
speaking, constituted the banqueting room itself,
the windows at the sides had been taken out, thus
securing better ventilation, while on the outside, as
if through windows formed by the white and red
bunting on the wells, banks of flowers were the
pleasant objects which revealed themselves to the
eye.

The guests, having been received on their arrival
by the Mayor in the cepfral tent, were conducted
to the banquetireKom, along which the
tables, which numbered four, exclusive of the cross
tables at the head, extended in parallel lines down
the length of the room. The French Minister occu-
pied a seat on the right hand of the Mayor, the Duke
of Somerset being on his left.
During dinner selections of music from '6 Fra Dia-
volo," Masaniello," and other favourite operas,
were magnificently rendered by M. Jullien's band,
with which was united that of the Royal Artillery,
under the direction of Mr. Smyth. The banquet was
supplied by Messrs. Gunter, of London. When
grace had been sung,

The MAYOR rose and said—
" I rise to ask your kind attention while I give you the
first toast—a toast which I shall have the honour of giving
you for the first time in my life ; and I can say, without
any hesitation, it affords me greater pleasure than any other
I shall have the honour of giving you, for reasons I shall
express to you in a few words. The toast is, ' The Health
of the Emperor of the French.' (Loud cheers.) Gentlemen,
I knew the enthusiasm and warmth with which the men-
tion of that toast would be received, but before I give it to
you in the usual terms I desire first to express to you the
gratification with which we have received the visit of the
French fleet to these shores. (Cheers.) It marks an era in
the history of our country, and I do not hesitate to say that
these mutual visits on both sides of the Channel tend to
strengthen the kindly feelings which have been gradually
growing, and cement that kindly and brotherly feeling which
existed between us. (Cheers.) It is not very long ago that
the Emperor said at Bordeaux that " The empire is peace,"
and when he has permitted these interchanges of good
feeling and the visits that have recently taken plane, he has
given us only one of the many proofs we have received of
his loyalty to the British nation. (Loud cheers.) That
magnificent fleet we see assembled at Spithead indicates
something more than an everyday occurrence ; it indicates
the warmth of that friendship which exists between the two
countries ; it shows that whereas in times past we were at
enmity with each other, we were now united in the warmest
bonds of friendship. When I passed through the fleet
at Spithead the day before yesterday, and tendered my
welcome on the part of the inhabitants of the port to the
admirals and officers of the French fleet, I confess I was
struck with the magnitude of the vessels and the immense
power they possessed. That fleet has assembled there not
in defence, not in defiance, but simply, as I understand, to
show to the world at large that France wishes for peace.
(Cheers.) I feel that I cannot express, either on behalf of
the inhabitants of this town or the people at large, the plea-
sure we derive from being honoured by the visit of our
allies on this occasion. (Cheers.) We are bound to each
other by ties of mutual interest—(cheers)—ties not to be
forgotten as a mattter of business ; but we are bound toge-
ther by the still greaterand stronger tie of common loyalty
and brotherhood, and a desire to promote civilisation and
liberty throughout the world. (Cheers.) Gentlemen, officers
of the French fleet, I bid you welcome to Portsmouth—l
bid you welcome to the shores of England, and I can only
say that I am but feebly expressing the pleasure and joy
with which we now receive you. (Loudcheers.) I dare not
trust myself to say more on this occasion. I have feebly at-
tempted to emulate the magnificent reception with which
our officers and fleet were greeted at Cherbourg and Brest,
and if we cannot give
you the same magnificent reception
we can offer you equally warm hearts, and as cordially wish
you God speed. (Cheers.) Long muy this cordiality con-
tinue, and strong as our arms have been at enmity with
each other, surely they can be equally strong in the grasp
of friendship. lam sorry I am not capable of expressing
these sentiments in the French language, but I offer them
from my heart on my own behalf, on behalf of the English
people. Gentlemen, I call on you to drink ' The Health
of the Emperor.'"

The toast was enthusiastically received, and dur-
ing the cheers -which followed it the band played
i‘ Partant pour
la Syrie," and a salute was fixed
from the garrison battery.
The MAYOR then rose and said—

"Gentlemen,_l now have to give you a toast to which
I am somewhat more accustomed, and the mere mention of
which will, I am Sure, be sufficient to raise not only in the
hearts of all Englishmen, but of all Frenchmen, the utmost
enthusiasm. I believe you will receive this toast with the
same cordiality and the same warmth as you have received
the last, because it relates to the sovereign of our country,
—her Majesty the Queen. (Loud cheers.) There cannot
be a doubt that her most gracious Majesty views with the
greatest pleasure these visits and intercommunication, and
that she rejoices to see the subjects of her nation receive
with friendship those of the French Emperor. (Cheers.) In
England, the mere mention of the name of the Queen is
sufficient to arouse our warmest enthusiasm. (Cheers.) It
is perfectly unnecessary and superfluous to enlarge on the
eminent advantages we enjoy as a people under the benign
reign and influence of her to whom we are indebted for
that noble example which she sets in every position that
she fills, whether as
Queen or a mother. With her Ma-
jesty's name I propose to couple ' The health of the Prince
and Princess of Wales and the rest of the Royal family.'
May the day be far distant when the Prince of Wales shall
reign as King of England, but when the day arrives when
be shall be called on to fill the position his mother so
worthily fills, then may the hopes and prayers of England
ascend to Heaven that he may reign over us with the same
purity and excellence, and set the same admirable example
as her Majesty. (Loud cheers.) This is a toast which I
know will recommend itself to your heartiest considera-
tion. It needs no recommendation from me." (Cheers)
The toast having been cordially drunk, the
National Anthem was played by the band.

Iwhich played in the vestibule was so illuminated
with a lime light as to cause the waters to sparkle
with tints of varied hue. A splendid display of
rockets took place about half-past 8 o'clock, and
attracted hundreds of the guests to the greensward
outside the tents, which was surrounded by a circle
of lights, the ramparts beside it being crowded with
people to witness the spectacle.
Supper was served shortly before 12 o'clock, and
a most successful series of fetes terminated shortly
after.

The troops in garrison here soon after 11 this
morning paraded on Southsea-common in review
order, and were organised in three brigades, form-
ing up in a line of contiguous columns at quarter
distance, under the command of Lieutenant-General
Sir George Buller, K.C.8., Lieutenant-Governor of
Portsmouth, and Commander-in-Chief of the Military
South-west District. Sir George was attended by a
numerous and brilliant staff of officers, among
whom was the Earl of Cardigan. The troops on
the ground consisted of two field batteries of artil-
lery, the 6th and 12th brigades of Royal Artillery,
one company of Royal Engineers, the Ist battalion
of the 14th Regiment of Infantry, the Royal Marine
Artillery, Royal Marine Light Infantry, 52d, 75th,
81st, and 87th Regiments of Infantry, 4,664 of all
ranks, with 12 12-pounder breech-loading guns, and
164 horses attached to the guns.
The line was formed on the somewhat narrow
and confined space of the Southsea-common parallel
with the line of sett-beach, and in full v=iew•of the.
combined fleets anchored at Spithead. Immense
numbers of people assembled to witness the
manoeuvres, which lasted for about two hours.
The Minister of Marine, the Admirals, and chief
officers of the French fleet were on the ground, and
were on their arrival received with a general salute.

PRICE 4d.
STAMPED sd.'

HOLYDAY-MAKERS.

(From the Times' Corresponcknt )
BADEN-BADEN, August 30.
Those who gave this place its present appellation
characterised it at once by that simple iteration of
the name. It is Baden-Baden; the Bath of Baths ;
the very paradise of holyday-makers. I have not seen
Carlsbad, nor do I like to deal in superlatives ; but
all I must say is, how very fortunate it is that men's
views and tastes so essentially differ as to allow
Wiesbaden its 20,000 average visitors, with perhaps
as many for Homburg, with 12,000 for Ems, and
8,000 for Carlsbad, instead of sending them all to
swell the number of 42,000 who yearly flock to this
place, as would surely happen, if the whole world
were of my own way of thinking.
I have not been on the spot, I am afraid to say
for how many years, but the first impression, which
never wore off by lapse of time or by contrast with
grander scenery or more genial climate, rushes back
upon me at a first glance with all the full tide of
long-remembered delight. They may well talk of
Saxon and Franconian Switzerland, of the Seven
Mountains, the Giant Mountains, or any other
favourite haunts of dwarfs and goblins in any dis-
trict of Germany ; but there is nothing north of the
Alps to compare with the Black Forest, and I am
almost tempted to question whether among the great
mountains themselves anything can surpass the effect
of cloud and sunshine as caught by the sable hues
of the pine forests spreading far and. wide over those
beautifully rounded summits, those sombre tints
which won this enchanted region its weird appella-
tion of Schwartz-wold. Glorious Black Forest !
Leave to the glaciers of Mont Blanc and the Jung-
frau the pride of giving birth to the Rhine and the
Rhone ; men must come to look among thy narrow
valleys and shaded rills for the cradle of the Danube.
What mad fever has come this year over all the
nations of the civilised world ? Innkeepers on the
Rhine, at the Taunus Spas, at Frankfort, every-
where, wherever I go, open their eyes and lift up
their outstretched hands, more astounded even than
delighted_ at the immense amount of custom this
season brings them. Their greed for their guests'
money is even less strong in them than the puzzle as
to where so many thousands of people may come
from, or how they are all to be stowed away and
disposed of. That young girl that was taken from
her convent walls for the first time, and driven out
of town as far as the bridge, where she put her
head out of window, and wondered " how wide the
world was," expressed a sensation analogous to
what any of us might feel at sight of so vast a mul-
titude of beings who can afford to be idle, and who,
having the means, are willing to spend their money
to put up with the discomfort such crowded travel-
ling must needs expose them to. "At no time has
such a thing been seen." Such is the remark with
which you are greeted by the civil landlord, as he
stops the cabman who is taking down your luggage,
and bows you from his door with the unwelcome
tidings that " he has not room for a kitten." Never
was such an invasion of Germany known to have
occurred at any former season.

Little will it avail a careful traveller to bespeak
accommodation by post or telegraph, for the num-
ber of boobies who never know how to make up
their minds is very great. Letters and messages often
come from persons who only expect they shall go to
Emmaus, when they at last decide for Jericho ;
and rooms and whole suites of apartments have so
often been got ready for parties who never made
their appearance, that the faith of mine host, at last
and no wonder, is shaken, and " the bird in the
hand" has oftentimes got the preference over that,
in the bush. I know I came in for No. 1 in the
Hotel de Russie the other night, at Frankfort—No.
1 being neither more nor less than a sitting-room,
bed-room, drawing-room, and boudoir, fit for a
prince's family, simply because the hotel was other-
wise chokefull, and the princely family who were
due on that evening had either taken the wrong
train, or broke down in the right one. Somehow or
other, probably because I take no heed of the mor-
row, the morrow invariably takes care of itself, and
I have not been doomed to sleep a la belle itoile yet,
as by my improvidence I richly deserved. Here at
Baden a bedroom was too absolutely out of the
question ; but a " shakedown" has been vouchsafed
to me in a bath-room at the Stephanien Bad, and
any deficiency in light or space or furniture is so
amply made up by the attention and empressement of
the bewildered landlord that I must declare myself
perforce content.
There is an artful dodge, it is tree, by which you
may force a landlord to take you in
the utmost
security against any chance of a " take in ;"
;,-ut it
has been tried again and again with such amazing
success that it has at last been taken up by mere
bunglers, and rendered now of comparatively little
avail. There was a traveller who went about clad
in very commonplace attire, and with most unpre-
tending luggage ; he never gave himself the airs of
a Prince, or affected the bustle of a Queen's Mes-
senger. He simply wrote the name " Baedeker,"
in large white letters on his black leather portman-
teau : and oh, the talismanic powers of that name !
" Une chambre pour Monsieur ; mais comment ? Si
ce n'est que difficile, c'est fait. Si c'est impossible,
cela se feral' Baedeker, if the stay-at-home reader
knows nothing about him, is, or rather was, the
clever author of Continental guide-books—a man
who could pull down a hotel or build it up in three
days.
I only came into Baden last evening, and we had
a perfect flood of rain at nightfall. Positively, at
this season, I only know of one place where a man
can breathe at his ease, and that is the Rigi Kulm.
I have no doubt the top of that mountain will sooner
or later become the only fashionable watering place
on the Continent. I complained of Wiesbaden as
o
a teakettle ; Baden, being on a larger scale, has the
atmosphere of a cauldron. We had a blazing sun
the whole of Saturday and Sunday—a blazing sun
throughout Germany, two or three suns at Frank-
fort. How they contrived it I know not, but the
Ziel, the Ross-market, and the adjoining broad
streets in that blessed city, seem so constructed as
to have no shade on either side in the summer,
nothing but shade in the winter. The heat
allowed us no rest day or night ; no rest if we
sat still, no respite if we moved at what they call
" schnell-pace" in their railway trains. The fact is,
the Germans have a proverbial charity and fellow-
feeling for their cattle. Horses are never over-

driven in this country, and I verily believe they
look upon a locomotive engine as an animated being,
and think more of its convenience than they do of

the comfort and patience of the traveller. The fact
is, after broiling in Frankfort we were stewed in the
train from Frankfort, so that on our arrival here we
were done well nigh to rags. Clouds gathered on
the hills as the sun declined ; big drops fell as he
went down, and there was a downpour when the
moon was in the ascendant ; but, somehow, rain
water here in these watering places is unlike rain
water anywhere else. It is nothing but vapour from
the " cooking springs" (Kock-brunnen, 56 deg. Reau-
mur) which just rises a few hundred yards up into
the hill-encompassed atmosphere, and pours down
at once through the unelastic air, still steaming, if
not boiling, as it touches the ground. You fancy
you see the earth writhing and sweltering under the
unrefreshing showers ; and you never realise the full
extent to which the heat had arisen, till it has, as it
were, melted into rain, precisely as thawing snow or
ice give you a keener chill in a slushy day than you
are apt to feel in the bracing frost.
Still it is to these places, in these days of Cancer
and Leo, that all who have the world for them
to choose from are so fain to resort. The rain
came rather of a sudden last evening, and after
a threat that no one had heeded; the conse-
quence was that all the " Sclicinewelt," as they
call it here, was out of doors ; the whole
of the 42,000 well-dressed people at Baden
had to throng together into the golden rooms

Sw ' t'lek i;;.
of the Conversation Haus, or the inaitlle. por
ticoes of the Trinkhalle. You should have, seen
the crush, the medley, the agony of crinolines
coming to grief. You should have heard. thejibbelit
ing, the Babel of tongues ! Under all circumstances,
notwithstanding all the inclemencies of heaven and
the discomforts of earth, it is worth while for man
to go where men most do congregate. There is no
place in the world so cosmopolitan as Baden ; no-
where can you see national peculiarities so strongly
developed, so forcibly contrasted. You have speci-
mens of almost all human races in Paris or London,
at Marseilles, at Genoa ; but in a large metropolis,
or in a thriving seaport, there is one predominant
mass, and the extraneous elements are more or less
absorbed ; life there has its great objects and pur-
suits, and the mere accidents of skin, garb, or idiom
are overlooked in the general stir of business, in the
common lot of toil, in the mutual dependence of
' man on man. But here at Baden we have only one
class of persons, the same class from all the regions
of the earth—that class which, at least for a season,
has both means and leisure for enjoyment, and must
strive to its utmost to turn those advantages into
sources of enjoyment. Society at Baden would, in
able hands, admit of endless analyzation. It would
be curious to see in what a variety of ways English,
Russians, Germans, Italians, Spaniards, Yankees,
South Americans, &c., all contrive to amuse them-
selves when they go so hard to work for it, or how
admirably they succeed in ennui-izing themselves.
How
they
they do
behave dress,
s ,
feeding
however, howtme hheoywmtohveey about,stand
how
the ups and downs of the gambling-table, is to be
seen at a glance. The mere outward world is as
plain as the title-page of a book. A man of many
tongues may make out a page or two more from the
scraps of conversation in the polyglot din of voices.
But, for the rest, " the noblest study of mankind'
takes time and labour—a labour but indifferently
repaid, a time that may better be spent otherwise.
I found three or four gentlemen at the Trink-
halle this morning. 'hey had gime the round of
the various springs, and were chatechizing in English
a poor countryman, who could only answer Black-
Forest German. I volunteered my services as an
interpreter, and my offers were received with
thanks, and with many " Sirs," in that Johnsonian
style which is lost among us, but which still sur-
vives among Transatlantic Republicans. The puzzle
to them was in what the difference consisted be-
tween the water they had drunk at the spring and
the liquid the man poured out to them from a long
barrel before him. "Why, the difference," said the
fellow when he was made to understand the ques-
tion, "is merely this, that that yonder is mineral
water, and this is whey." " Whey, Sir !" echoed
the astonished gent from Chicago. " Why, Sir,
you do not tell me that what I have been drinking
is nothing but whey ?" " Yes, Sir ; whey from
goat's milk, Sir." " Whey, Sir !" insisted the
Michiganian. in still greator perplexity. " And
what good on earth can whey do, Sir ?" " More
than 1 can tell you, lam sure." " What Do you
never try it, Sir ?" " No, Sir." " Nor any of the
waters?" " No, Sir." " And pray, Sir, what do
you try?" " Sometimes a pint of Steinwein or
Marcobrunner, or sometimes even a drop of Johan-
nisberger, when I can get the right stuff, and when
I can afford it. I can safely recommend it, I tell
you." The laughter into which the other Yankees
broke out at the expense of their bewildered country-
man did them, I am sure, greater good than the
most powerful Trinkhalle waters ever did.
We have the King of Prussia here, and are in
daily expectation of some of the Princes of his
Royal house. If his Majesty labours under any fit
of indigestion consequent upon having swallowed
Lauenburg, surely Kissingen or Homburg would be
the place for his complaint.