The Sun.
London, England, 1862-02-27 00:00:00

came more rugged and almost mountainous. Some
of the higher summits have been seen by me ou my
former expedition to the Lyons River in 1858, at a
distance of GO miles, and were appropriately named
" Capricorn Range."
By noon of the 25th we succeeded in working
our way through the ranges, and on ascending
nearly the last ridge that intervened between us
and the Lyons River, had the satisfaction of view-
ing the valley of that river spread out before us,
with Mount Augustus rearing its summit over all
surrounding objects, apparently not more than 10,
although nearly 30 miles distant. Mounts Samuel
and Phillips, and other summits, were visible in the
far south, and a few of the higher peaks of the
Blrlee Range were easily recognised to the west-
ward.

Having proceeded half a day's journey further
south, completing the sketch and triangulation of
the country to a junction with my former route up
the Lycns, we returned through a better line of
country more to the eastward, crossing the Ash.
burton 12 or 14 miles higher up than on our out-
ward track, where it still maintained the same
fertile appearance, and from the summit of some
of the ranges I was able to trace its course for
more than 20 miles farther eastward, undiminished
in the size of its channel.

Arriving at the depot camp on the 29th we found
the horses left there very much refreshed, but the
pitiable condition of their hoofs precluded my carry-
ing out the original intention of pursuing an easterly
course on our return to Nickol Bay.
As we had still by us 40 days' rations, it was a
matter of great disappointment to me that I was
prevented from undertaking any further examina-
tion of this part of the country, but the unexam-
pled wear and tear of horseshoes had quite upset
all my former arragements. The best course for
us to pursue appeared to be to get back as fast as
possible to the ship, and, providing a more ade-
quate supply of farriery, to try and include in our
second trip as much of the country now left unex-
plored as we possibly could.
In accordance with the foregoing views, we com-
menced a retrograde movement on the 30th, cutting
off the bends and objectionable portions of our out-
ward track, until reaching a spot in lat. 21 deg. 53
m., and long. 117 deg. 58 m., from which point I
decided upon attempting to pass through the ranges
northward, and come out on the seacoast some-
where about Depuch Island, and from thence follow
the coast line to Nickol Bay.
By the 6th July we had retraced our steps to
the point destined for a departure from the old
route. The returnjourney had not altogether been
without its use, as it afforded me an opportunity
of ascending several prominent peaks, some of
considerable elevation, enabling me to add many
cross-bearings to the triangulation I had been
carrying out, fixing the position, amongst others,
of a remarkable hill formerly seen by ma from the
summit of Mount Augustus, at the distance of 120
miles to the N.N.E., and which now lay not many
miles to the eastward of our present track. Al-
though I could not find time to ascend this hill, I
should estimate its height above the sea, by compa-
rison with those measured by the aneroid barometer,
at not less than 3,800 or 4,000 feet. This distin-
guished eminence I have named Mount Bruce, after
the gallant commander of the troops.
Entering the ranges to the northward on the
9th, the country was of rather an inferior descrip-
tion for the first 20 miles. We then struck the
head of a stream that led us, by the 12th, into open
plains, in which it trended much to the westward,
and finally by noon on the 16th brought us to the
sea-coast, about 18 miles to the westward of De-
puch Island. This river was afterwards named the
Sherlock.

In traversing the upper part of the Sherlock,
which proved very stony, we were compelled to
abandon a horse belonging to Mr. Brookman, on ac-
count of his hoofs being completely worn through.
He was left in the midst of feed and near water, in
the hope that he would sufficiently recover to be
again made useful on our next trip, but on return-
ing, 18 days later, he was found dead on the spot
on which he was left.

The country for the last 20 miles, on approach-
ing the sea, opened out into extensive grassy flats,
occasionally inundated by the river, yielding, even
at this dry period of the year, a large quantity of
fine pasture. The arable portion of this locality
cannot be estimated at less than from 20,000 to
30,000 acres, well watered by permanent pools in
the bed of the river and its tributaries, several of
which join it from the rugged volcanic ranges that
border the last 40 or 50 miles of its left bank.

From the 16th to the 18th a westerly course was
pursued, parallel to the sea-coast, about 20 miles in-
land, skirting the northern face of a range of gra-
nite and volcanic hills ; the country to the north-
ward being generally open grassy plains, the soil
varying from strong clays to light sandy loams ;
Cape Lambert forming the principal exception, con-
sisting of metamorphic sandstone and volcanic
dykes.
Early on the 19th we arrived at our old encamp-
ment at Nickol Bay, and found a party of natives
occupying the spot, busily engaged mending their
nets, one of the Dolphin's boats having just left
the shore with a load of wood, which the natives
had assisted in collecting. A rifle shot soon at-
tracted the attention of the party in the boat, from
whom we had the satisfaction to learn that all had
gone on well during our absence; Captain Dixon
having been able through the activity of Mr.
Angell, the chief mate, to entirely fill up the
ship's tanks with water, in which they had been
con3iderably aided by the natives, who gladly
offered their services in consideration of receiving a
few pounds of damaged biscuit daily.
Mr. F. Walcott had also made good use of his
time, and accumulated many botanical specimens,
curiosities in natural history, a vocabulary of the
aboriginal language, with other ethnological and
meteorological information.
The distance travelled over on this first trip was
780 geographical miles.

Eight or nine days' rest served to refresh the
horses, and re-equip the party, during which time
I was enabled to make a running survey of a por-
tion of Nickol Bay, the anchorage, and several
landing coves, as also to roughly draught the out-
lines of our explanations.
The horses having all been shod with extra
strong shoes, we resumed our explorations, pro-
vided with 90 days' rations, and nearly two sets
per horse of spare shoes, one of the party being
dismounted by turns, as we were short one horse.
Returning nearly on our old tracks as far as the
Sherlock River, we on the sth August commenced
the exploration of the new country ; taking a S.E.
course over open plains, yielding a few patches of
good feed, but generally covered with triodia. At
18 miles we fell in with stony ranges, in which but
little water could be found, baffling us for some
days, and eventually obliging us to establish a
depot camp in lat. 21 deg. 14m. 28 sec. S., long.
118 deg. 3m. 30 sec. E.
Accompanied by Messrs. M. Brown and J. Har-
ding, lightly equipped, I succeeded, on the Bth, in
finding a pass through the hills to the eastward,
and at 30 miles struck on a considerable stream-
bed coming from the S.S.E. In this river we found
abundance of water and water-fowl, with feed suffi-
cient for our wants ; the main portion of the party
were in consequence brought forward, and en-
camped upon it by the 13th.

This river was remarkable for the number and
width of its channels, occupying more than half a
mile from bank to bank. 7 After emerging from the
ranges, it takes a N.N.W. course for some miles,
and probably discharges its waters into the sea,
either near Cape Thouin, or by some of the many
mangrove creeks shown on the charts, about long.
117 deg. 50m. E. This river was named the Yule.
On the 14th the Yule was followed up for 20
miles through opQn plains, varying in character
from good pasture to stony and sandy soil, yield-
ithe river ng trodia. and a stunted variety of red-mum trees ;
branching into many
channels, rendering
it very difficult to decide which was the main one,
but it probably derives its
principal waters from the
continuation of the Hanamersly Range, a
portion of
which was visible from the summit of the higher
hills, at a distance of about 70 miles.

During the two following days, one of the in-
ferior channels of the river led us to the S.E,, the

country improving, and grass more abundant,
granite rocks cropping out at intervals on the sur-
face of the plains, which had no visible limit to the
south-east.

Pursuing a more easterly course on the 17th, we
again entered upon a hilly region, in which were
found many springs in the ravines, enabling us to
advance through the rugged country to long.
119 deg. 23 m. E., where we fell in with a river
containing a good supply of water; it was followed
down for 10 miles through a picturesque granite
country, and when left was trending towards
Breaker Inlet. It was named the Strelley.
Leaving the Strelley on the 20th on an easterly
course, many stream-beds were crossed, on which
was much grass, but the country still remained
hilly and stony. At night we encamped in a
romantic glen, hemmed in by cliffs 150 feet high,
under which were pools of water containing fish
resembling herrings, from which it received the
name of Glen Herring.
August 21.—The Glen Herring Creek carried
us 8 or 9 miles to the eastward, when it joined a
fine river 200 yards wide, coming from the south-
ward, through extensive grassy plains, the limits
of which could not be discovered in that direction.
This river, from its size and quantity of water in
its bed, would have afforded a good opportunity
of passing into the interior, but the season was now
too far advanced to admit of our making the at-
tempt, without interfering with the primary object
before us— that of penetrating far enough to decide
the question of the drainage of Central Australia.
Naming this stream the " Shaw," after the talented
Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society, we
pushed on to the eastward, up a considerable tribu-
tary, the remainder of this and the following day,
penetrating into an elevated table-land, the ascent
of which, on the 23d, proved very distressing to the
pack-horses, mere especially as they had imme-
diately again to descend into deep rocky ravines,
leading to the:eastward ; but soon, however, emerged
into open plains, extending northward.
Passing over plains or along water-courses, we,
on the 26th, again found ourselves on the banks of
a fine steam running to the N.E., and encamped on
some fine grassy flats, in lat. 21 deg. 18 m. S., long.
120 deg. 30 m. E. This river was traced the next
day for 10 or 12 miles to the northward, receiving
many fine tributaries, forming altogether a river of
some importance, which, on account of the large
extent of valuable pastoral and agricultural country
afterwards found on its banks, I ultimately named
the " De Grey," in honour of the noble lord presid-
ing over the Royal Geographical Society at the
initiation of this expedition.
For the present, leaving this promising river on
an easterly course, through an elevated and in
some parts precipitous country, in which the
horses suffered severely, we arrived late in the
evening of the 29th on the banks of another river,
in a wide valley, surrounded by grassy plains,
equally promising with those on the De Grey; not,
however, before we had been compelled on two
occasions to leave horses behind, and return for
them when water was found.

The scenery in the vicinity of this river was truly
pleasing; undulating plains of waving grass ex-
tended far away to the northward, while the banks
of the stream, which were here two hundred yards
wide, were overhung by a broad belt of cajeput
trees, the rich umbrageous foliage of which afforded
us a most agreeable shade during the many days we
afterwards followed the picturesque windings of
this fertilising stream, upon which was conferred
the name of " Oakoyer."

The horses not being in a condition to prosecute
immediately an easterly march into the ranges, the
Oakover was followed upwards for two days, to
long. 121 deg. 3 min. 30 sec. E., lat. 21 deg: 23 min.
40 sec. S., when it turned too much to the SW. for
our purpose. The next day, being Sunday, we re-
mained here for the benefit of our horses, enabling
me to obtain a set of lunar distances, which gave
our position four and a half miles to the eastward
of that by account, the chronometer furnished me
by the Acting Surveyor-General having proved per-
fectly useless ; it was one which I had known, from
many years' experience of it. to be the most defec-
tive belonging to the department.
September 2.—Resuming an easterly course for
16 miles—the first six across an open plain covered
with grass and triodia, and the remaining portion
through steep granite hills of 300 to 500 feet ele-
vation above the plain—beyond this to the east-
ward was a wide expanse of flat country, covered
with very remarkable ridges of water-worn red
sand, distributed in straight parallel lines, at the
distance of several hundred yards apart, the sand
being piled by the wind into acute ridges 30 to 60
feet high, their direction being uniformly N. 100
deg. E.

The next morning we entered one of the valleys
leading to the E.S.E, and traced it up for 18 miles,
when no water being found, and the ridges con-
tinuing for at least 15 miles further, we were ob-
liged to commence a retreat, as several of the horses
again failed us. We did not get back to the last
waterho!e till two the next day, leaving three
horses behind, unable to move; two of these were,
however, recovered the same night, by carrying
water to them; the third one, belonging to Mr.
Brown, we were obliged to abandon.
The deplorable condition of many of the horses
after this last repulse, was such as to render it ab-
solutely necessary to form a depot to refresh them ;
while, with six of the best, I made another attempt
on the 6th, accompanied by Messrs. Brown and
Harding, taking 16 days' rations and six gallons of
water.

September 6—Entering the waste of sand more
to the southward, we penetrated over 30 miles,
when the want of water and the low condition of
the horses, compelled us again to fall back, leaving
behind a portion of onr equipment:and two horses,
none of which were afterwards recovered, as they
were at too great a distance from water to be
reached without risking further losses; and had it
not been for the activity of Mr. M. Brown, who
performed, in one day, a march of 32 geographical
miles, over a heavy sand and under a hot sun, to
bring aid from the depot camp, we probably should
have lost two or three more; we were, therefore, for-
tunate in getting four of them into camp by the
evening of the 9th. The horses lost were the pro-
perty of Mr. S. P. Phillips and Mr. D. M'Pherson.
The reduced number of horses and their increas-
ing inability to carry loath, had now dismounted
half the party, and 24 hours was the longest time
that the strongest horses were capable of carrying
a rider without water. I was, therefore, with great
reluctance, compelled to relinquish the attempt to
proceed further eastward, although everything in-
dicated the existence of a large river within 40 or
b 0 miles, which, from the gradual depression of the
country that had been observed in the last few days'
journey, its geographical position, and the vast beds
of erratic sands blown by the S.E. trade winds
across the plains that had baffled our attempts in
that direction, tended strongly to support the opi-
❑ion that has long been entertained—that in this
position would be found a large river, carrying off
a great portion of the waters of Central Australia,
the discovery of which would solve one of the most
important questions that now remains unanswered,
in connection with the physical geography of
this continent, and upon which so many conflict-
ing opinions have been hazarded by some of the
most eminent geographers—a question, the solu-
tion of which has been to me one of the prin-
cipal incentives to undertake the present expedi-
tion. Nothing, therefore, but the extreme proba-
bility that any further attempts would not only end
in losses, but also seriously compromise the safety
of the party, could outweigh my anxiety to accom-
plish this most interesting part of our undertaking•
Having, however, carefully weighed all the circum-
stances of our position, I eventually decided upon
falling back, and attempting to fill up as much as
possible of the blank that remained between this
and Nickel Bay. With this view, we returned on
Owl 11th to a pool in a tributary to the Oakover,
named the "Davis," and the day following to the
latter river, having been obliged to shoot a horse
belonging to Mr. J. S. Davis, which had received
injuries that rendered it unlikely to recover if left
behind.

The most promising field now left open to us for
discovery, appearing to be to the northward, we
commenced the descent of the Oakover on Sept, 12,