The Sun.
London, England, 1862-09-27 00:00:00

FASHIONS FOR OCTOBER.

(From the Paris Elegant..)
Heaven be praised my dear and gentle readers, we need
no longer refer to the weather, unless to speak of that happy
change from foul to fair which has now continued for seve-
ral weeks. We enjoy these sunny days the more for hav-
ing so long been deprived of them. For, truly to speak, we
we have scarcely seen a fortnight's summer this year; our
pretty light dresses have been useless; and, what is still
worse, we have been quite puzzled to know what to wear.
The season is not summer, nor is it exactly winter, nor even
spring, which least of all it resembles. The nearest approach
it makes to anything seems to me to be autumn; and yet,
when we look at nature and nature's flowers, we cannot
make up our minds to put on the dry leaf dress, whilst the
verdure of the trees is still smiling above our heads.
What then shall we wear ? Shall it be muslin and
transparent tissues ? They are too cold.
Shall it be silk ? It is too heavy. It does not feel too
warm, perhaps; but it feels heavy, which is a great objec-
tion.

Don't you thank, ladies, the case is enough to embarrass
any one ? lam sure you must.

That which this year appears to be preferred to all others
is the white dress, and justly so. It had been discarded, I
cannot tell why. But it was resolved to resume this kind
of dress, and every effort was made to effect the object. But
how could it be done whilst the rain was pouring down
upon us ? Scarcely a single peep of sunshine came through
the wet clouds. For all that, our Parisian fashionables
persisted, and many were the white muslin robes which
appeared in the streets, even without toilets ; the most ele-
gant ladies went out in the morning on foot in these dresses.
But they were finally worsted and obliged to yield ; for how
could they stand such deluges of water ? But mixed cos-
tumes are not so easy to manage. To bo thus armed and
prepared against all contingencies we ought to bo rich, and
in possession of a well-stocked wardrobe. The custom is
to order ono's dresses at the beginning of the season ; when
it is over, either these dresses are faded, or else they are
put by for the following year. It is not every lady who
can afford to have auxiliary toilets, adaptable to every
change of temperature. Yet, this summer, such dresses
were absolutely indispensable.
Since, then, the time is peculiar, and what I term
auxiliary toilets must be bad, shall I give you a pretty,ser •
viceable, and cheap one as a model ? It is, perhaps, a little
strange and eccentric, but, in such a case, eccentricity is
allowable. It is a dressing-gown. You must, of course,
have a dressing.gown of some sort, especially if you live
much within doors. Tho following is a most ingenious
contrivance, and may serve for a double purpose :

Of course you know what is Persian calico, unstarched—
the real Persian calico, I mean, such as used to be worn by
our grandmothers ? Only theirs were the genuine oriental
calicoes, whilst ours are but imitations. They are sold
everywhere, from 7d. to 10d. a metre, our metre being 3
inches longer than the yard English. You see it is not
over. expensive. You purchase a piece sufficiently long to
make up a robe a rideau, Louis XV. style, suited to the
occasion—that is to say, puckered in front instead of being
flat. But do you know what a robe a ridcau is? It is a
large blouse forming a long queue, with three hollow tucks
in the back, like the collars worn by priests ; these tucks
are formed upon a piece which is brought in front.
This piece is loose and open en caw, and surrounded
with a ruche of narrow ribbon to match the special colors
of the dress. This ruche is carried on in front to
form round the sleeves, which are tight to the elbow
and wide at the bottom. This dress, you see, is extremely
pretty without being dear.
Let us now prepare for autumn, with cool mornings and
evenings. For this you have a caraco of the same Persian
calico, lined with Florence, quilted and wadded. This
quilted lining turns back all round the sleeves and the
caraco. This can be put on at pleasure, and will enable you
to keep your dressing-gown in use till winter, when you re-
place it with flannel and cashmere. Bows or stitched claws
are employed to fasten the surtout in front.
Fashion, just now, is not to be looked for at Paris, but
rather at the baths and watering-places, at Baden-Baden
especially. What a choice of fine toilets, what a number of
pretty things are seen. It is like the Gardens of Armida
like a terrestrial paradise I
The dresses which decorate the theatres aro indescrib-
able ; so they are at the public promenades, and everywhere
you go. The 20
effect is magical—entrancing. Among
ladies you meet, 18, be sure, have got the little hat, what-
ever their age may be. Their shapes aro infinite, and no
shape in particular can be said to have a preference. It is a
true republic this little lady's hat. The dresses are exceed-
ingly long, wide, and flowing; they certainly occupy more
room than the hoops of the last century. They are not much
trimmed for visiting, and when they are trimmed they aim
at the extraordinary employing fantastic ornaments,
lozenges, semiwreath , claws, ruches, &c. The medley is
so inconsistent and cc 'used that there is no definite mean-
ing to be traced. A w small flounces, one or two at
most, deco-ate the ski
Heaps of sailor vest match the dresses, white and
striped burnous— thes he most general garments now
in wear. The hair .11y arranged a la Regence,
that is, with large em t; forehead. No doubt this
next winter we shall have the pocAudes of the restoration,
for we are rapidly tending that way.
At the recent concert a Sivori, at which Yivier and

Madame Battu were present, the latter wore a tuh 'e dress,
trimmed from top to bottom with small narrow I mffings.
These puffs were held up here and there by ribbo. as pro-
ceeding from the waist. Over this jupe was thrown a gos.
samer veil, turned up on either side with bunches of d,
Head-dress to match. Mad. ame Emile do Girardin, a, t the
same concert, wore a muslin Lkress lined with rose taft, .Ira-
She had on a lace pelerine, or rather a kind of hood, whikql,
completely covered her. The effect was very fine. The
Princess Menschikoff wore a ta.rlatane dress with sleeves,.
a mauve underdress, a rice-straw' hat with mauve flowors7
and a burnous made a splendid black Chantilly.
The Baroness de Morthorn appeared in a muslin robe
with embroidered flounces, a sort of black tunic over it,,
with groseille flounces to hold it u.:?, and with grapes inter-
twined with her hair-
A young lady, belonging to a family of condition, a few
ago went through the ceremony of assuming the Car-
melit:e habit. Nothing was to be heard in the church but
sobs an wailings. The state the poor mother was in
pierced the heart of every spectator. She knew she was
never to see a,ivain the face of a beloved daughter, for such
seclusion is detail by anticipation. And yet they arehappy
creatures these, to whom God assigns His love for a voca-
tion. In His bosom I.IIOY find a refuge against thetstorms
of life; for them it has no torments, no perplexities, no
grief; death itself is disarm& d of its terrors and apprehen-
sions. There alone can peaces be found here below, and
Providence does not allow ins any perfect happiness be-
sides this. _ _

But now let me describe the toi7et of this young postu-
lant, and I am greatly mistaken if it does not please you.
It was a white tarlatine dress, la, k 1 upon waves of muslin
and tulle—that is, upon at least ti tree transparent petti-
coats. The trimming of this dress co. usisted, first, of a very
thick ruche of tarlatane, scalloped; above this three very
puffy bouillons ; and over these a similar ruche to the one
below. The corsage, partially cpen on a stomacher, was
likewise adorned with a berthe with small puffs., surrounded
with a ruche. The sleeves, trimmed with lon,r, puffs, di-
vided by small ruches, were extremely gracei;ul. This
same pattern may be composed of gossamer tulle 011usion)
for under-sleeves, but then the ruches are made of taffeta,
which has a very pretty effect.
The youthful nun had a veil, a bouquet, and a wreath of
orange blossoms, like a bride. This parure would I:.`x3 a
very delicate one for a bride who was not rich, or for a
young girl going to a ball.
I shall not torment you any longer with the sad picture or
this fair postulant, but proeeed to describe to you a few
more ball-room dresses; and if you dwell among the vota-
ries of dancing they may possibly be of use to you.

One of these is a tulle dress of pearl grey, with two large
puffs to match, divided by two small grey taffeta flounces,
scalloped a l' empor le-piece. The same flounces are re-
peated over and under the puffs, making six flounces in all.
On the puffs are strewn twigs of ruse acacias without leaves,
The corsage a deuce pointes is arranged in the same manner.
The same style of dress may be made of tarlatan() or white
tulle, and, instead of flounces and flowers you apply pinked
ruches. This is exquisite.

A robe of white tarlatane may be trimmed with seven
fluted flounces, all of them edged with black guipure. The
corsage and sleeves must have three rows of it; the falls of
a long sash are edged in the same way, and so are the
flounces of a straight mantle, which must be worn when
this dress is worn as half toilet (demi-toilette). •

The sailor vests, or sautes-en•barcues, are still in high
favour; they are preferred to the Talmas. Bear in mind
that they are especially suitable to ladies of large frame.
They are expected to outlast the winter, and they already
talk of trimming them with lace and fur. There will be a
peat deal of lace worn by-and-by. The Princess R-
has had two burnous made, one of Chantilly and the other
of needlework. The cost of the latter was so enormous
that I dare not name the price. It is fastened with rose
ribbons, instead of tassels. The black has two white
bows.

Burnous of embroidered muslin, and still more plain
burnous, are much better adapted to minor fortunes; and
they are pretty and elegant.
Let me show you the king of round hats, after which we
may put out the lights; it is a hat the shape and distinc-
tion of which at once challenge respect to the wearer.
This hat, then, is a Mademoiselle, with turned up edges at
the side; it is made of grey straw, with no ornament but a
single pintade plumet, of the same grey as the straw ; the
base of this plumet is of red water feathers. A ribbon of
the same shade is put round the crown, to fasten behind;
the falls do not come down very low.

With this headdress, and by way of completion, some

venturous ladies would put a net of the same colour as the
water feathers. A grey one might be added, but black is
always the best colour.
B ound or oval bats, and, in fine, hats without strings,
are now making great way among the fashionable. They
have been resolutely adopted in all watering places, even
for very mature young women. They have more than
doubled in number in Paris, but only among young women
less mature.

One of you has inquired of me, and asked my advice
about a riding habit. If it is for town wear you must be
particular, adhere to good taste, and shun the appearance of
a professional equestrian. Consequently a riding dress made
of English cloth, a mademoiselle hat, with or without

plumes, a small black lace veil, a high collar, a small cra-
vat, tight sleeves, and ruffles inside. Then, if you wish to
be smart, let your riding habit be green or blue.
If it be for country wear you may be more fanciful. In
which case a black alpaca or dark-coloured dress, a large
Louis XIII. basqaine, with white sleeves; a grey felt hat,
with a plume falling over the back, may be attainable .
Even some nankeen and ticking dresses have been worn.
However, do not forget that no toilet requires more good
taste and simplicity than a lady's riding dress. We must
beware of all exaggeration, and avoid every approach to the
tumbler, the mountebank, and the acrobat. Caprice is so
fond of liberty when she indulges, that, when once it carries
us away, it is like a horse running away in a fit of terror,
which could not stop if it would.

MARQUISE DE BERMS.

GOUN2RY MARALIAS.

►~

LIVERPOOL-SETT. 26.

Our market to-day was extremely quiet, and wheat only
in limited demand, at Tuesday's prices. The same may be
said of flour. The Indian corn trade was steady, making
former prices.

WAKEFIELD-SETT. 26.

New wheat was in good quantity, and sold at fully is
per qr lower. Parcels not in good condition could only be
sold at low prices. New samples of barley is cheaper.
Beans, oats, and shelling rather in favour of the buyer.
Averages for the week :
Wheat .1,078 qrs., at sss 84d
8ar1ey......... 20
Peas ....
Oats
nye —
Beans