The Sun.
London, England, 1865-10-18 00:00:00

rEE SUN, LONDON, WEDNESDAY EVENING, OCTOBER 18, IE6 E.

was really nothing to it. It is always one or two,
and often three, feet deep on what are called the
roads. Occasionally the greasy monotony of slime
is relieved by a string of rough boulders tossed into
the mud as stepping-stones for those who want to
cross, and by and by these come mingled with egg-
boxes, broken bottles and jars, refuse meat, and
vegetables, sardine-tins, ashes, old bones, and gar-
bage, thrown from the saloons ; broken barrels,
stumps of trees, waggons that have " gin out,"
pieces of machinery that have foundered on the way
—the first tokens of Oil City proper. These indica-
tions of the town are as varied as they are intermit-
tent, for the real Oil City is only one long winding
street on a mud flat between the river and the high,
steep bluffs, and along this narrow strip depots,
wharves, stores, hotels, eating saloons, whisky
shops, and wells, each in their tarn, struggle for
pre-eminence, without the smallest regard to the
position or wants of others. Here is a whisky
saloon, with men smoking and drinking, and next
to it a pumping well, which fills the air with its in-
flammable gas, and on all the greasy boards round
which "No smoking" is roughly chalked. Then
comes a short interval of side walk where the lum-
ber-path, if not above the mud, is, at least, some-
what above the water and oil ; then, again, pump-
ing wells, with their tanks filled with petroleum,
and beyond these men hewing and blasting away
the cliffs to make room for houses over the dirty
waste, or others running them up on piles above
the creek, fastening walls and roofs and ceilings
together with iron tie-rods, to enable the frail tene-
ments to withstand the dreadful and unequal strain
of dangerous floods that arise so frequently. Then
comes, between a group of oil wells and little creeks
and pools of stagnant oil, a photographic shanty ;
then barges moored in the mud alongside the high-
way, and called " eating saloons," where dirty bed-
cots are slung over dirtier tables, where the charge
is d a day, and where not even the all-potent oil
is taken in exchange for money, or rather green-
backs—for money, in the English acceptation of the
term, seems to have vanished from the country
since the war. Higher up than this, the different
kinds of stores may be known at once by the samples
of ragged clothing thrown into the side walk or the
mud of the road outside them. No one here buys
clothes while any he has got can hold together,
and when he buys he simply attires himself in the
stores—a coat at one place, boots at another, and so
on, throwing out into the road the garments which
he supersedes by better. The way of life has fallen
into its roughest forms here, yet only as regards its
outward seeming, for in all that relates to good
order and the security of life and property one is as
safe here as in Cheapside. The upper end of the
long straggling street which constitutes the " city,"
and which ends at Oil Creek, is in its way almost
indescribable. If, however, your readers can
imagine how the dirtiest parts of Limehouse would
look if mixed up with log shanties and the tall
wooden buildings of improvised American cities, all
before and behind the houses being interspersed with
machinery and pumping oil-wells, the whole partly
burnt, and all more or less damaged by floods, they
will have some idea of the " surroundings" of Oil
City. Add to this a teeming population on the side
walks, wearing the best and stoutest of jack boots,
but with nothing else of clothing that would be
thought sufficiently decent for a scarecrow in Eng-
land ; fill up the roads with overladen horses striving
to pull their waggons of oil through the sea of
mud; cover the adjacent river with crowds of flat
barges, all laden with oil ; and, above all, make oil
predominant in what you eat or drink, feel or
smell, and the everyday life of Oil City is before
you. Once in the place, oil becomes as insepa-
rable from everything you touch, from clothes,
meals, conversation, as the very atmosphere itself,
which is, in fact, entirely made up of gas from the
oil. Men think of nothing, certainly talk of nothing,
and probably dream of nothing but oil ; and if there
is nothing more nauseating than the gas from a
flowing well it is the eternal clamour of " ile, ile,
ile," as it is called here, of "surface indications,"
" good shows," " dry territories," " hundred-barrel
wells," "thousand-barrel wells," " No. 970, a big
thing," " No. 800, quite a strike," " 830 gi'n out,"
and so on, from early dawn, till the last of those in
these rough hotels are asleep. I would not trust the
impressions which I received on my first arrival here.
They appear incredible, and most probably would
have been entirely so to your readers. During the
interval that has elapsed, then, since my first visit
to this city I have made a long round through
Petrolia, have visited its most famous wells, and
seen its most curious cities—woo len cities of large
extent, shanty cities having hotels and newspaper-
offices, banks, and rough theatres, yet the oldest
built within four years—the youngest, and by no
means the smallest, within the last four months.
In a mere hurried letter of this kind I can, of
course, make no attempt to describe the marvels
that are to be seen on every side through this most
extraordinary land. By next mail, however, I
hope to continue my task, and lay before your
readers some description of what few Englishmen
have read of, and fewer still have seen—the old
region of Petrolia.

matches have been played betweeen the Ist of May
and 30th of September of the present year. Other
large open spaces are used for the drill and exercise
of the troops stationed at Chelsea New Barracks, as
also of various Volunteer corps. The district police
are drilled here also. Portions are set apart for trap
ball, rounders, and other games ; and when the
cricket season terminates football is commenced,
and is continued throughout the year. With the
exception of a small space used by the Civil Service
Club, the rest of these grounds are kept by the de-
partment of Woods and Forests. The lake is an
artificial one, and is fed partly by the Thames and
partly by a steam engine, fixed for the purpose of
supplying the park with water for the lodges, drink-
ing fountains, roads, flower beds, urinals, &c. The
depth of the water is too shallow for bathing, being
only 24 ft. deep. A large bathing pond would be as
fully appreciated in this locality as those at Vic-
toria-park are. The lake, however, is extensively
used for boating, the boats being let on hire by Mr.
Greaves of Chelsea.

There is a gymnasium and playground in the
south-eastern portion of the park, and on the ground
adjacent to it Sunday and other schools are allowed
to hold their annual treats,which, owing to the faci-
lity of access to the park, by both rail and water,
are annually increasing in number.
The subtropical garden, of some four acres in ex-
tent, did great credit throughout the summer to Mr.
Gibson, who has himself travelled in the East on a
botanical mission for and at the expense of the late
Duke of Devonshire.

The peninsula, comprising an area of 51 acres,
was completed and opened to the public last June.
It is laid out in the English landscape style, com-
bining a series of mounds with gentle slopes, be-
tween which are picturesque vistas. Nearly at its
centre there is a reservoir, which is excavated be-
low the level of the neighbouring springs. The
water from this self-supplied source is as clear as
crystal : it is pumped into an elevated tank which
holds 20,000 gallons, from which are laid service
pipes for the supply of the park.
During the last two years a horse ride has been
formed about 40ft. wide. It commences at Chelsea-
bridge, is continued along the river frontage to near
the West-lodge, and thence to the west-end of the
south drive. This year it is being brought in the
opposite direction to the east end of the same drive,
and will be soon completed. It will probably be
extended along the south side next year, and will
then encircle the park. When it becomes better
known, this will be cne of the most attractive rides
within easy reach of the fashionable parts of Lon-
don. The advantage of river frontage possessed by
Battersea-park alone is shown by the fact that up-
wards of 12,000 persons haVe landed at the park
piers on each of several fine Sundays this year.
The tolls on Chelsea and Battersea bridges are a
great drawback to the enjoyment of this park,
although it is frequented by many on the weekdays.
But on Sundays, when the bridge is free, in fine
weather 40,000 or 50,000 people have been in the
park at one time during the last summer. The gra-
tuitous distribution of surplus bedding plants, autho-
rised by the First Commissioner of Woods and Forests,
has been made here, as elsewhere, this autumn.
Perhaps no greater improvements in the land-
scape gardening way have been made for many years
on the northern bank of the Thames than those re-
cently carried out in Chelsea Hospital grounds, which
were, until of late, nearly in the formation in which
they were originally laid out. The embankment on
the north side of the Thames, the construction of
new approaches to the handsome suspension bridge
at Chelsea, and other public improvements in this
quarter rendered the entire reconstruction of these
grounds necessary. The terraces on the south front,
and, indeed, the whole surface in this part, had to be
raised 4ift. ; and, on tha side nearest Chelsea-bridge,
a depth of filling of from 10ft. to 24ft., was in-
volved. This having been effected, the grounds were
inclosed with a substantial iron railing in front, and
their superficial formation was completed in 1862.
In carrying out these works some 100,000 cubic
yards of various sorts of stuff were deposited by con-
tract, and the grounds thus made are equal to any
of a like extent near London.

The raising of the ground above-mentioned ren-
dered it necessary either to sacrifice or transplant an
avenue of fine old pollard lime trees, planted in the
centre of the grounds some 150 years ago. It was
decided to attempt their removal, and this has been
effected by powerful machines—four or Ave tons of
earth being taken with each tree. They have been
formed into two avenues, one on the eastern and the
other on the western side of the grounds ; and so
successfully has this been done that not a tree has
been lost. These grounds are liberally adorned with
flowering plants, and, being kept in good order,
look very brilliant in summer.
A portion of the grounds occupying the site on
which Ranelagh-house formerly stood is devoted to
the private use of the inmates of the hospital, and
are kept in order by the Lords Commissioners. These
have been recently reformed and laid out at their
expense, in a style corresponding to that of the ad-
joining grounds. Here allotments are set apart for
the pensioners, consisting of a square rod each ; and
they are so successfully cultivated by some of these
men that as much as £lO or £ll has been realised
on one allotment. This is done chiefly by the culti-
vation of the musk plant, of which two and three
crops are obtained in a season, and for which there
is an easy sale to hawkers.

From what we have succinctly and imperfectly
described, it will be seen that, starting from the
south side of Battersea-park, and passing between
the well laid-out grounds of Chelsea Hospital and
new Guards' barracks to the end of Lower Sloane-
street, the commencement of a grand road from
Battersea to Hyde-park has been made. When, if
ever, the connecting link, via Sloane-street, will be
formed is another question.

Kennington-park is of comparatively recent for-
mation, having been enclosed about 1851. The
space it occupies was known as " Kennington-
common," which had become a thorough public
nuisance, and a source of extreme annoyance to those
who dwelt in its vicinity, who, when the park was
projected, offered to subscribe £5,000 towards its
formation. There are large vitriol works close at hand
which do not promote the luxuriant growth of the
trees and shrubs. They have, however, gradually,
though slowly, improved of late. In laying out this
little park, of 34 acres, an amalgamation of the
plain geometrical and the English styles has been
adopted, the latter having been completed about three
years since. It is furnished with a gymnasium and a
playground, which, in that populous neighbour-
hood, are in constant use. There is likewise a hand-
some drinking-fountain, presented by Mr. F. Slade,
of Lambeth, and designed by Mr. Driver. It is con-
structed of polished granite, surmounted by a bronze
casting, which represents Hagar and Ishmael at the
well. There are two large grass enclosures in the
centre of these grounds, in which a very good plan,
and one worthy of adoption elsewhere, is pursued,
to preserve the turf from utter destruction. Different
portions of the park are closed and opened alter-
nately to the public. Were it not for this precaution
there would not be a living blade of grass to be seen
by the end of July ; every vestige of turf would be
tramped to death. By permission of the First Com-
missioner of Works, these open spaces are used for
the inspection of local volunteer corps and other
purposes. The usual floral decorations are carried
out during the season, which, considering the quan-
tity of smoke and deleterious fumes issuing from
the adjoining chemical works, succeed as well as can
be expected. The park is surrounded by a wrought-
iron fence, backed by a privet hedge. No metropo-
litan park is a greater boon to, or is more highly
appreciated by, those who can enjoy its privileges
than that of Kennington.

The origin of Victoria-park was this. In the 4th
and sth years of her present Majesty's reign an act
was passed to enable the Commissioners of Woods
and Forests to complete the sale of York-house, and
to purchase with the proceeds a royal park. The
Duke of Sutherland paid £72,000 for the remainder
of the lease of that house, and this money was ap-
plied to the purchase of about 290 acres of land,
situated in the parishes of St. John, Hackney ; St.
Matthew, Bethnal-green ; and St. Mary, Stratford-
le-Bow, county of Middlesex. Nearly one-third of
the acreage mentioned is taken for building ground;
the rest is Victoria-park. Its site had been pre-

viously market gardens and brickfields. The orna-
mental lake is made over the rough brickfield, near
to which stood Bishop Bonner's famous hall. The
Park is bounded on the north side by Hackney ; on
the south by Sir G. Duckett's Canal, running nearly
east and west ; and on the west by the Regent's
Canal. It is divided into two portions—the Orna-
mental or West Park. In the former there is an
ornamental lake having about ten acres of surface,
with three very pretty islands. Here boats are
hired out at ls. per hour, and there are numbers of
waterfowl of various kinds. On the south-west side
of the lake there is a fine avenue of elm trees, with
I a carriage drive and shady walks ; there is also an
arcade here, furnished with seats. On the north-
west end of the lake there is a handsome walk called
" The Vale," which is planted with choice trees,
shrubs, and flowers. Close adjacent are the green-
houses and pits for raising and wintering the plants,
but they look scarcely large enough for the purpose.
In this portion of the Parr there are several separate
flower-gardens, riband borders 300 yards long, and
mixed flower-beds of considerable extent, filled with
various plants.
The East Park is used for games, and contains
two bathing lakes, which are well supplied with
water. These are much frequented, as many as
7,000 people having often bathed there in one morn-
ing. They are open from 4 to 8 o'clock a.m. Every
means is taken to insure the safety of the bathers.
Buoys are fixed, showing the depth of water; there
is a boat with a man ready to aid if necsssary ; and
the swimming-master, Woodbridge, is always in
attendance. The extent of these two lakes is about
six acres.

At the extreme end of the park is the cricket-
ground, of 35 or 40 acres. Here 60 or 80 wickets
are often pitched on Saturdays. The ground is
rolled and mown with a machine. About one-third
of the way through the park is the Victoria Drink-
ing-fountain, presented by Miss Burdett Coutts ;
and, to add to the means afforded for public exer-
cise and recreation, there is a gymnasium, as there
are also swings and merry-go-rounds. Victoria, of
course called after her Majesty the Queen, is a very
pretty park, and is admitted by all visitors to do
credit to its original designer and its present super-
intendent, Mr. Merrett.