The Sun.
London, England, 1863-08-29 00:00:00

FASHIONS FOR SEPTEMBER.

(From Le Follett)
It is by no means an easy task to write a bulletin of the
modes at this season. All that there was to say on the sub-
ject of materials and styles for summer has been said, and it
is almost too early to speak definitely about the autumn
fashions; still we will, however, do our best to give our
fair readers an idea of the intermediate toilettes to be worn
in the interval between the end of one season and the be-
ginning of another.

There is also some difficulty in selecting materials suitable
to the weather; for, warm as it is during the day, it is quite
cool in the mornings and evenings. It is for this reason that
foulards are so much worn; they are cooler than taffetas,
and yet warmer than muslin or grenadine.
Mohair, foulard, and alpaca, we may then safely say, will
be the materials most in request for September. Gass de
Chambery, Mousseline de sole, and grenadines, will be kept
for warm days and toilettes habillees.

As to colour, the new "turtle dove" is the last intro-
duced, but we do not think it will be very long in favour;
as our Parisian models seem to have a decided penchant
for decided hues, no very pale or undecided tints having been
worn lately. Red is already much worn, and will be quite
in favour by the autumn. White is very fashionable and
elegant, either over a colour or not; according to the taste
of the wearer and the material employed. A white alpaca
dress and cloak, trimmed with cherry-coloured braid, have
a very elegant effect.

White dresses, made in muslin or transparent materials,
have the skirts trimmed with fluted flounces or bouillon•.
nees, in which are run coloured ribbons. When coloured
skirts are worn under these dresses, they should be made of
Equal length with the over-skirt, and should in most cases
be accompanied by a low body of the same, over which is
worn the white corsage or pelerine. If the petticoats worn
with these thin dresses should be of muslin, or washing gre-
nadine, they should be about an inch from the ground, and
trimmed with flounces.

We almost invariably see in Paris the petticoats of the
same material as the dress, and trimmed in the same man-
ner. We fear our readers will think this rather an extrava-
gant fashion to recommend them, but if they will consider
the expense incurred in the making and washing of flounced
petticoats, we think they will soon be reconciled to the inno-
vation.

Dresses are almost invariably accompanied by cloaks of
the same. This fashion will, we believe, last during the
autumn ; but we are not so assured of its continuance after
the commencement of the winter season,

Plaid dresses are fashonably worn ; they are as yet un-
common, hut will become more general in the autumn.
Plaid sashes of ribbon or silk are much in favour for
white or self-coloured dresses.

White bodies are so very useful to wear with skirts the
bodies of which are old-fashioned or no longer fit, that they
are likely to remain as much in favour for a long time as
now are. They are made in various materials—muslin,
plaited, or boullonnee, grenadine, foulard, or llama ; they
are often trimmed with black lace insertion. Those bodies
are no longer made to hang loosely over the skirt, like the
Garibaldi, which is quite out of fashion except for early
morning wear.

The ceintures generally worn with these corsages are those
called postillon. They are pointed at the top and bottom
of the front, but have a plaited basque behind. The two
front pieces forming the plastron are of white silk or moire,
with a row of buttons down each seam. The rest of the
ceintures postillion is made in coloured silk or moire, and to
lace under the arms. The ceinture Suisse is generally
made with two points at the top, both in front and back,
and is worn with bretelles.

Sashes are rarely seen now with bows at the back ; they
have generally a plaited barque, under which the ends are
fastened. Some ceintures have four ends—one each side
of the front, and two at the back; those in front are shorter
than the others. In these materials this sash has a very
elegant effect.

It is thought very probable that tight-fitting jacket-bodies
will be worn again towards the winter, the different vestes
that have appeared this year and last have prepared us for
the resuscitation of this becoming style.
Should jackets indeed return, they will not be made in
any habille material—such as silks, satins, moires or vel-
vets—but wi:l be eonfined to more homely wear. If they
are reintroduced, it will be principally to wear with co-
loured skirts, in place of the white bodies now used for
that purpose.

Toilettes de vine will be generally made 'with plain bodies,
having two points in front, and a small plaited;basque at the
back, These dresses are generally made with loose bodies
and pelerines, either square or open in front, and crossed at
the waist. With this make, round bands and buckles or
sashes are worn, according to the fancy of the wearer.
We see many flounces, but they are seldom except for
washing materials, being generally put on in plaits with a
heading. When one wide flounce is worn, the skirt itself
is scolloped in long, not deep, waves, and the flounce is
mounted on these indentations. A ruche de toupee is placed
at top and bottom of the flounce. When several narrow
flounces are worn, they are generally placed straight round
the bottom of the skirt, and up one side of the front to the
waist. The last style of trimming dresses with flounces
is to put them on in deep scollops, with a trimming under
each wave.

We have seen one dress with a flounce put on in an en-
tirely novel style. It was a violet gaze de soie over silk of
the same colour. The flounce, which was about 8 inches
wide, was put on with four small box-plaits and one large
one alternately ; in the contre of the wide plait was a black
lace vine-leaf.

Square corsages. and those open en col co3ur, will con-
tinue fashionable, especially the former. Being so difficult
to cut and fit well, they should only be entrusted to a clever
dressmaker, as, if cut too high or too low off the shoulders
they entirely lose their cachet, and have an unbecoming
effect.

There is little or no alteration in the shape of the sleeve
now worn ; they are all small, and mostly have seams at
back and front. They are rarely accompanied by jockeys
of the same ; but have generally epaullettes of lace or pas-
sementerie. It is not improbable that quite tight sleeves
will be worn in the winter.

Linen cuffs aro worn very deep, and fastened with linen,
buttons, for the morning. For toilette plus habillee, these
cuffs are trimmed round with goffered frills of lace or cam-
bric, and are attached by fancy studs.

There is no sensible alteration in the form of mantle for
next month; paletots, collets, or casaques being still worn,
without any great difference of shape or style, excepting
that they are a little shorter. Shawls are now worn by the
Parisian ladies, fastened at the throat by a brooch, and not
hanging loosely on the shoulders, as formerly.
There seems no danger of bonnets resuming their high
and pointed form ; they are still narrow at the sides, but
flatter on the top than formerly, and do not come so far on•
the head.

Caps are mostly made of black and white lace, with a
loose crown, and generally have a Marie Stuart point in
front. Fancy aprons are likely to become very fashionable
for home wear; they will be quite small, and gathered or
plaited into a very narrow,compass at the waist.
Among the toilettes we have seen, we select the follow-
ing for description :
The first was a bridal dress. An under skirt of rich
white silk, with chicoree ruche of the same round the bot-
tom. Over this was a sort of white gaze de soie, with
flounce of English lace reaching to the top of the ruche on
the under-skirt ; above this flounce, which was about 12
inches deep, were three rows of festooned and and inter-
laced ruches of gaze de soie.