The Sun.
London, England, 1863-10-05 00:00:00

FASHIONS FOR OCTOBER,

(From Le FoHet)
Now that the autumn has decidedly made its appearance
wing us, all our thoughts and energies must be directed to
the study of the most becoming and appropriate styles of
dresses and materials for the season. Notwithstanding the i
absence from Paris of the several leading queens of fashion,
many of the principal houses have been actively employed
it, devising new styles for the approbation of their customers
en their return to the capital, or to forward to them direct
at their different chateaux or the most fashionable resorts at
this time of the year. In the productions to which we have
referred neutral tints would seem to be more in favour than
they were last month ; but require relieving by some de-
cided colour—such as cherry, mauve, or apple-green. The
narrow cravats worn in-doors will be found very useful for
this purpose, as, though so small, they are quite sufficient
to relieve the monotony. We do not advise the trimming
of a dress of one colour with another and more striking
seif.colour ; it is only in eery exceptional cases that this
produces an elegant effect, Black, for instance, may always
be trimmedin this manner, and there are some greys,
though very few, which look well with a contrast.
we have recently seen a very pretty dress of two colours,
intended for
_autumn wear. The effect was so very novel
and distingue that our readers may probably wish for a de-
scription. A. plain long gored skirt of light stone-coloured
silk,
with high-buttoned body, and very small open sleeves.
Over this was worn a tunic of Royal blue silk, also gored,
reaching down to the knee in front, but longer behind. A
low body,
Pointedat the top and bottom, without sleeves,
with a postpostilionbaeque, completed this very elegant toilette.
This style is likely to come into great vogue ; but will never
be in
danger of becoming common, as no lady with any pre-
tensions to good taste, would make it in any but rich ma-
terials
—such as silk, poplin, &c. The tunic and low body
made of black silk, would have a very recherché effect, and
might be worn with any coloured silk or poplin skirt.
The new skirts are made from five and a half to six and
a half yards round the bottom, and are trimmed with ribbon
braid, ornaments in point d'Espagne, or guipure passemen-
terie, with cf without beads intermixed—the latter being
made in an immense variety of styles.
Sometimes silk skirts are trimmed round with chenille
e
frinbut this would probably appear more suitable for
ca mails
__mc'aits of plush—indeed, for them it is almost indispensable
as a finish. Chenille fringe, both woollen and silk, is ex-
pected to be
fashionable as a trimming during the winter,
and,
on thick material, has a very good effect.
Plaid, although perhaps rather common as a trimming
for out .of-door garments, is exceedingly fashionable for
trimming silk or poplin dresses, especially self-coloured or
black.
woollen plaids, both for dresses and cloaks, may de-
cidedly be considered la modo this season. The plaid Telma,
with or without hood, and trimmed with a chenille fringe to
match the
tartan, is very pretty. Robes and camel's will
of plaid, plush, or velvet.
also be made
It is yet rather too soon to speak definitely about mantles,
but we will just describe one novelty prepared in a first-class
establishment, which appeared to us in very good taste. It
is
an immense collet of black velvet worked in rich bouquets
of flowers, graduated in size, and covering the mantle within
rather more than a quarter of a yard from the bottom. This
space left is ornamented with ovals of Chantilly lace, made
expressly for the purpose,
and edged with a wide insertion
composed half of lace and half of passementerie,
The Telma and casaque, trimmed with guipure or lace
and
passementerie, will be worn. Talmas, careens, and
paletots to match the dresses, slightly wadded and lined
with silk, will be useful for some little time to come,
The LouislV. veste, cut after the model of the ancient
hunting dresses—a sort of habit body with a round basque
—is in such favour at the present time that it is more than
probable many of the warm dresses for the coming season
will be made in the same form. In velvet, lined with s_itin,
it will have a very charming effect; but, of course, only ad-
missible as an "at-home"
dress,

Bodies are still made with points or postillion basques.
Passementerie, 98 we last month prophesied, will be the
trimming par excellence. The Figaro epaulette of passe-
menterie, terminating in a fringe, is very graceful and be-
coming, and just now much adopted.
The or with a waistcoat, is more than ever
in favour. The waistcoat is frequently made of white cloth,
orsilk b
cloth; 'l ve
o
and will be much worn, both in white and in
I y
colours. For elamPle, with a cream-coloured taffetas, a
waistcoat of white kersemere
or, with a chocolate dress
trimmed with violet a violet waistcoat. With liavannah
brown, grosseille or ponceau forms a pleasing contrast. Wo
advise, however, when the waistcoat is coloured, that it be
not too bright, as it would pr duce decidedly a vulgar

effect.
Wide ribbon sashes are still much patronised, but are no
longer seen with such a great amount of trimming as for-
merly was fashionable. For instance, it is not carried up
so high as the waist, but merely round the ends, and to about
six or eight inches up the sides. Some of the ribbons made
for this purpose are truly splendid. It must, however, be
esexpensive fashion, as it necessi-
tcaotnefsasesd hasthtaot match ais a very
tcheach dress, unless a lady is economical
enough to content herself with a black one, trimmed with
lace or passementerie, which is in very good taste, and looks
well with any dress. The ceinture postillon is made in
black velvet with a plastron of white moire antique, on
which is placed silver buttons. This produces a vero stylish
effect.
Dresses when looped up for out-of-door wear, have
fewer festoons than formerly, four being the fashionable
number. One in front, another at the back, and ono on
each side.
Coloured stockings will be worn this winter. Grey will
be the favourite colour. Different shades of grey and drab
will also be in good taste, but no striking colour such as
scarlet or mauve. The latter would look intrinsically
vulgar, though it is not improbable that cherry colour kill
be worn during the season.
Nearly all the ball dresses are of tarlatane, with under-
skirts also of the same. There is rather a rage just now for
white and black. For instance, the following pretty dress
was lately worn by a young lady:—lt was composed of a
skirt of white tarlatane, trimmed with narrow flounces put
on waved at the bottom of the skirt, and separated by in-
sertions of black lace. the body had a small fichu of tarla-
tane and black lace, and was finished off with a scarf of
black lace tied behind. On the front and shoulders were
bouquets of natural roses,and the hair was dressed to match,
White tarletane dresses, with a colour underneath, or
with ruches or pinked flounches, are very becoming for
young ladies. Many are made as described, or with
wreaths of flowers. For instance, one dress of white tar-
latane, with a narrow gauffered tulle flounce round the
bottom, and above it two wreaths of myosotis and small
roses.

Our readers will, we are sure, be pleased with the an-
nouncement, that in all the best houses the bonnets are
being made lower in front and narrower, and backward at
the sides—so much more graceful and becoming a style.
Satin is being also employed both for capotes and plain
bonnets, and as the season advances will no doubt be very
fashionable.

The newest capotes are principally trimmed with ruches
of tulle or crape, and small bunches of grass with dew drops
on them, but no flowers.

Crape bonnets are still worn, but they are mostly mixed
with silk, A very pretty one was made of white crapo and
tulle Wllin.ollool With Li ruche of sill; and tulle round the