The Sun.
London, England, 1839-09-05 00:00:00

LETTER I.

In the December of 1837, I arrived at Oran, when a
bold idea illuminated the chaos of my plans, and I
speedily formed the resolution of uniting my fate with
that of a young hero, and of serving Abd-el-Bader, who
is so great as a reformer, so great by a mind which elevates
him above his companions in religion, and renders him
the dreaded opponent of a powerul nation. I commu-
nicated my plan to his ukil in Oran, Sidi-el-Haidsch-el-
Habib. He joyously approved of it, and sent a courier
to the Emir to acquaint him with my offer. His answer
promised me a friendly reception, provided I embraced
the faith of the great Prophet.

On the 2d of February four Arab horsemen appeared,
who were sent by Abd-el-Kader to conduct me to his
brother-in-law at Mascara, the Chalifa Sidi-el-Haidsch
Mustapha, and I spent the evening of that day at the
ukil's house, in the company of the four emissaries. The
meal was prepared in the Arab style, consisting of
coscus,# roasted mutton, and boiled acorns, for Haidsch-
el-Habib, although surrounded in Oran by the fascinat-
ing enjoyments of Europe, honours the simple manners
of his people with remarkable strictness. While we
were eating, the emissaries measured me with searching
eyes, and the sight of their stern forms, wrapped in
their white bernus,f t heir black sparkling eyes, and the
expression of the wild features, which was sometimes
fearfully gloomy. and sometimes unpleasantly smiling,
awakened in me the strangest emotion. When the table
was cleared, the rtkit made an interpreter translate for
me the letter of recommendation which I was to take
to Sidi Mustapha, and in which he lauded the power of
the Prophet, and congratulated himself on being the in-
strument in leading a young Christian from the bosom of
infidelity to the arms of the truly faithful.
The following day was the most important of my
life. I felt deeply moved at the moment when I was
to bid adieu to the soil of civilization, to Europe's arts
and literature, and finally to Christianity. The Arabs,
who urged my departure, cut short my meditations.
The uki/ threw over my frock—a relic of my student
days—a white bernus, wrapped my head in a turban,
caused to be buckled on we an Arabian sporen three
feet long, and in a few minutes I was sitting quite
metamorphosed on the stamping Arab steed which was
to bear the young Mahometan into the region of the
faithful. Arrived at the gate, we set our horses in a
gallop, that we might cross the bounds of the French
territory as soon as possible. When we had passed
the block-houses, from which I had most to fear, one
of my conductors returned to tell the Consul that we had
reached the Sultan's dominions in safety. Being now
beyond the reach of danger, I flung back the cape of
my bernus, and my glances wandered freely over the
extended plain of my new country. The distant hori-
zon was bounded by the gigantic Atlas, behind which a
new world was to open and to decide my future destiny.
After riding for three hours on a marshy heath,
overgrown with low bushes, we reached the noble
plain, which with luxurious magnificence unfolds its green
carpet between Oran and Mascara. What ideas, what
hopes filled my bosom as I saw my companions fly
along on their foaming steeds ! The red of morning
was reflected on their bright weapons, and the bernus,
flung back and fluttering in the wind from the rapidity
of their course, displayed the warlike sons of the desert
in a most picturesque form. When our spirited horses
carried us more slowly along, I considered attentively
the fields which were smiling around me in rich fulness.
Numerous herds of cattle were every where grazing,
and not unfrequently we met little caravans or solitary
horsemen. Some inquired the cause of the unusual ap-
pearance of a Christian, but my companions gave evasive
answers to their questions. When the sun began to
sink, and but faintly illumined the landscape, we reached
the aduar which was destined for our night's lodging.
We had ridden 25 leagues without once alighting, and
had during this time eaten nothing but a little barley
bread, which my comrades had brought from Oran.

The male inhabitants of the aduar were on our arrival
assembled round their Schiek to end the business of the
day with consultations. When they saw the uniform of
their great and powerful Marabut the circle opened, and
the Scheik came forward from the centre to greet us
with hospitality. On alighting from my horse I flung
back my bernus, upon which the Arabs gazed on their
European guest with astonishment. After the Scheik
had learned the object of my arrival, he invited me to
take my place by him on a carpet of plaited reeds. The
Arabsseated themselvesaround us,and when they learned
that I wished to enter the service of their Prince, and
to embrace their faith, they stormed me with requests to
repeat their creed, " La illa el Allah Sidi Mohamed
ressul Allah." One after another handed me his rosary,
that I might repeat the usual prayer of the Mussulmans,
" el hamdu lilla," &c.

' At the conclusion of every one of my prayers the
fanatical children of Islamism uttered a wild shriek of
joy, which filled one with irresistible horror. At last I
was relieved from the pious frenzy by the appearance of
some bread and milk which was presented to us by the
women. When the meal was ended I made some pre-
sents to the Arabs, having procured at Oran a few
pocket-mirrors, knives, phosphorus boxes, &c., for that
purpose. The mirrors passed from hand to hand, and
every one viewed his face with the greatest self-compla-
cency. A brush was used by all, in turn, to arrange the
male ornament they most prize—their beard. But the
fire-box excited the greatest astonishment, the ignition
of the match by friction surpassing all their notions, and
the hissing of the phosphorus causing unrestrainable de-
light. Some hundred matches were sacrificed at once
to their curiosity, and they would, without hesitation,
have exhausted my whole stock, bad not a horseman
of the Emir's repeatedly called out " Barka, barka,"
(enough).
The group lad in the meanwhile considerably in-
creased, by the arrival of all the women and children of
the aduar, who gazed with curious eyes. When night
began to spread her sable veil over the earth, the Scheik
rose, and gave the signal for all to retire to their tents.
He conducted m e to his own, and pointed out my couch,
which was composed of carpets woven from dwarf palms,
and some skins of beasts stuffed with wool as pillows.
The women Iron ght dry twigs, and a cheerful fire was
soon sparkliz . a t which they prepared supper. The
Scheik sat opposite to me, dancing on his knees his two
youngest sons, an, it his long silvery beard descending low
upon his breast, and his venerable countenance, on
which was depi, !led the tenderest paternal love, gave him
the appearance of a patriarch. As I observed his play-
ful caresses, dr( !atm flitted before me of my own child-
hood, and I ih. )ught of my distant parents, until the
pictures of my , fancy were dispersed by the serving up
of the supper, which consisted of coscus, dressed
with butter and i .aisins, and roast mutton with milk. The
only implement used for eating is a large wooden spoon.
After our meal ', my host talked to me about reli-
gion, and the po ver and wealth of the Sultan and his
Chabffis, giving es, necial praise to Sidi Mustapha. He
assured me that I should get from him beautiful horses
and women, besid es magnificent arms and powder ;
"and after your death," he piously added " the Prophet
will conduct you to the paradise of the faithful, where
you will receive sti ill more beautiful arms and horses,
and in the arms of i he ever-virgin houris grow young to

all eternity." The women, who had seated themselves
round the fire, asked if I had parents, and brothers and
sisters in the great desert—Europe, and when I answer-
ed in the affirmative, said, with an expression of aston-
ishment and abhorrence, " And have you been able to
leave your mother ?" This reproach, at a place where
I least expected it, awakened painful feelings in my
breast, and I was forced to collect myself before I could
reply " La illa el Allah Sidi tlfohanzed ressul Allah, and
in Ben Sahara (i. e. Europe) they know not the
Prophet. Therefore I have left my relations." This
explanation perfectly satisfied them all, and greatly
pleased the Schiek in particular. In the meanwhile
midnight had approached, and the male inhabitanti
of the tent went through their prayer, with their faces
turned towards the east. Their soft murmuring lulled
roe to a sweet sleep, and in dreams of hope I anti-
cipated the pleasures of the paradise promised me by
the Scheik.

The horses were ready saddled at about 6in the
morning, and we took our departure. After a few
hours I could perceive Mascara, the former residence of
Ahd-el-Kader. Several Arabs who belonged to the
regular spahis of the Emir were exercising their spirited
horses on the plain, and then accompanied us to the
city. When we arrived at the palace of Abd-el-Kader,
which had been destroyed by the French, any which is
now used by the Chalifa as a hall of justice, Sidi Mus-
tapha was informed of our arrival. Shortly afterwards,
thn Caid El-Hadi-Bukari came from the house to re-
ceive me, when taking him for the Chalifa, I alighted
from my horse, and hastened towards him. The pre-
possessing gracious air of this man made on me an ex-
ceedingly agreeable impression, which was still heigh-
tened by the refinement of his manners. With the
mildness belonging to all the higher orders of this
people, or which, at least, they affect, with the most
extreme civility, which he had acquired by travelling
to Gibraltar, and with a warmth which was a masterly
work of art, he seized my hand and bade me wel-
come. I gave him the ukirs letter of recommen-
tion, and now first perceived my mistake. He led me
by the hand to the Chalifa. At the entrance-doors,
which were open, stood the Chaons (Janisaries), who
had the office of keeping back the assembled multitude.
Here I was obliged to take off my boots, which I left
on the threshhold ; and when I returned, a quarter of an
hour afterwards, they were gone—probably stolen.
We entered a room, more like a barn than a Prince's
hall of justice. The ground was covered with rich car-
pets, and opposite to the diior, on a seat formed of soft
cushions, I perceived the Chalifa, surrounded by four
scribes and several officers. Above him, in a niche lined
with scarlet cloth, hung his magnificent arms in valu-
able cases ; behind him stood several coffers, which, as
I was afterwards informed, contained his treasures, and
before him musk was burning in an earthen vessel,
shaped like an urn.
(To be continued.)