The Sun.
London, England, 1863-08-29 00:00:00

FASHIONS FOR SEPTEMBER.

(From Ls Follet)
It is by no means an easy task to write a bulletin of the
modes at this season. All that there was to say on the sub-
ject of materials and styles for summer has been said, and it
is almost too early to speak definitely about the autumn
fashions; still we will, however, do our best to give our
fair readers an idea of the intermediate toilettes to be worn
in the interval between the end of one season and the be-
ginning of another.
There is also some difficulty in selecting materials suitable
to the, weather; for, warm as it is during the day, it is quite
cool in the mornings and evenings. It is for this reason that
foulards are so much worn; they are cooler than taffetas,
and yet warmer than muslin or grenadine.
Mohair, foulard, and alpaca, we may then safely say, will
be the materials most in request for September. Gaze de
Chambery, Mousseline de sole, and grenadines, will be kept
for warm days and toilettes habillees.
As to colour, the new " turtle dove" is the last intro-
duced, but we do not think it will be very long in favour;
as our Parisian models seem to have a decided penchant
for decided hues, no very pale or undecided tints having been
worn lately. Red is already much worn, and will be quite
in favour by the autumn. White is very fashionable and
elegant, either over a colour or not; according to the taste
of the wearer and the material employed. A white alpaca
dress and cloak, trimmed with cherry-coloured braid, have
a very elegant effect.
White dresses, made in muslin or transparent materials,
have the skirts trimmed with fluted flounces or bouillon•,
nees, in which are run coloured ribbons. When coloured
skirts are worn under these dresses, they should be made of
equal length with the over-skirt, and should in most cases
be accompanied by a low body of the same, over which is
worn tho white corsage or pelerine. If the petticoats worn
with these thin dresses should be of muslin, or washing gre-
nadine, they should be about an inch from the ground, and
trimmed with flounces.
We almost invariably see in Paris the petticoats of the
same material as the dress, and trimmed in the same man-
ner. We fear our readers will think this rather an extrava-
gant fashion to recommend them, but if they will consider
the expense incurred in the making and washing of flounced
pettieoats, we think they will soon be reconciled to the inno•
vation.

Dresses are almost invariably accompanied by cloaks of
the same. This fashion will, we believe, last during the
autumn ; but we are not so assured of its continuance after
the commencement of the winter season,
Plaid dresses are fashonably worn ; they are as yet un-
common, tut will become more general in the autumn.
Plaid sashes of ribbon or silk are much in favour for
white or self-coloured dresses.
White bodies are so very useful to wear with skirts the
bodies of which are old-fashioned or no longer fit, that they
are likely to remain as much in favour for a long time as
now are. They are made in various materials—muslin,
plaited, or boullonnee, grenadine, foulard, or llama ; they
are often trimmed with black lace insertion. Those bodies
are no longer made to hang loosely over the skirt, like the
Garibaldi, which is quite out of fashion except for early
morning wear.
The ceintures generally worn with these corsages are those
called postilion. They are pointed at the top and bottom
of the front, but have a plaited basque behind. The two
front pieces forming the plastron are of white silk or moire,
with a row of buttons down each seam. The rest of the
ceintures postillion is made in coloured silk or moire, and to
lace under the arms. The ceinture Suisse is generally
made with two points at the top, both in front and back,
and is worn with bretelles.
Sashes are rarely seen now with bows at the back ; they
have generally a plaited. basque, under which the ends are
fastened. Some ceintures have four ends—one each side
of the front, and two at the back; those in front are shorter
than the others. In these materials this sash has a very
elegant effect.
It is thought very probable that tight-fitting jacket-bodies
will be worn again towards the winter, the different vestes
for
the have appeared this year and last have prepared us
the resuscitaticn of this becoming style.
Should jackets indeed return, they will not be made in
any habille material—such as silks, satins, moires or vel-
vets—but will be eonfined to more homely wear. If they
are reintroduced, it will be principally to wear with co-
loured skirts, in place of the white bodies now used for
that purpose.
Toilettes de ville will be generally made with plain bodies,
having two points in front, and a small plaited;basque at the
back. These dresses are generally made with loose bodies
and pelerines, either square or open in front, and crossed at
the waist. With this make, round bands and buckles or
sashes are worn, according to the fancy of the wearer. •
We see many flounces, but they are seldom except for
washing materials, being generally put on in plaits with a
heading. When one wide flounce is worn, the skirt itself
is scolloped in long, not deep, waves, and the flounce is
mounted on these indentations. A ruche de toupee is placed
at top and bottom of the flounce. When several narrow
flounces are worn, they are generally placed straight round
the bottom of the skirt, and up one side of the front to the
waist. The last style of trimming dresses with flounces
is to put them on in deep scollops, with a trimming ander
each wave.

We have seen one dress with a flounce put on in an en-
tirely novel style. It was a violet gaze de sole over silk of
the same colour. The flounce, which was about 8 inches
wide, was put on with four small box-plaits and one large
one alternately ; in the centre of the wide plait was a black

lace vine-leaf.
col cow, will con-
Square corsages, and those open en
tinue fashionable, especially the former. Being so difficult
to cut and fit well, they should only be entrusted to a clever
dressmaker, as, if cut too high or too low off the shoulders
they entirely lose their cachet, and have an unbecoming
effect.
There is little or no alteration in the shape of the sleeve
now worn ; they are
all small, and mostly have seams at
back and front. They are rarely
accompanied by jockeys
or pas-
ofthe same;
but have generally epaullettes of lace -
sementerie. It is not improbable that quite tight l s eeves
will be worn in the winter.
Linen cuffs are worn very deep, and fastened with linen,
buttons, for the morning. For toilette plus habillee, these
cuffs are trimmed round with goffered frills of lace or cam-
bric, and are attached by fancy studs.
There is no sensible alteration in the form of mantle for
next month; paletots, collets, or casaques being still worn,
without any great difference of shape
that they are a little shorter. Shawlse or style, excepting
are now worn by the
Parisian ladies, fastened at the throat by a brooch, and not
hanging loosely on the shoulders, as formerly.
There seems no danger of bonnets resuming their high
and pointed form ; they a
flatter on the top er are still narrow at the sides, but
than form l
the head. y, and do not come so far on

Caps are mostly made of black and white lace, with, a
loose crown, and generally have a Marie Stuart point in
front. Fancy aprons are likely to become very fashionable
for home wear; they will be quite small, and gathered or
plaited into a very narrow compass at the waist.
Among the toilettes we have seen, we select the follow-
ing for description :
The first was a bridal dress. An under skirt of rich
white silk, with chicoree ruche of the same round the bot-
tom. Over this was a sort of white gaze de soie, with

flounce of English lace reaching to the top of the ruche on
the under-skirt ; above this flounce, which was about 12
inches deep, were three rows of festooned and and inter-

laced ruches of gaze de soie.

SUN OFFICE, HALF-PAST 4 o'CLOcK.

THE FIRE AT CAMPDEN-HOUSE.

HOME CIRCUIT.—CROYDON, Saturday.

WOOLLEY V. POLE.

(Before Mr. Baron Bramwell.)

Mr. Lush, Q.C., this morning, addressed the jury upon
the whole of the evidence, on the part of the defendants, and
contended that the plaintiffs had altogether failed to sub-
stantiate their claim, The learned gentleman occupied the
court the greater part of the day, and on his concluding,
Mr. Bovill or Sergeant Bailaatine will reply.

EY ELECTRIC TELEGRAPH.

After the Judge's summing up, the Jury returned a
verdict for the plaintiff without hesitation.

THIRD EDITION

SUN OFFICE, SIX O'CLOCK

TURKEY.

-4--
Constantinople journals to the 20th have reached
us. According to letters of the same date, Turkey
is determined to guard a strict neutrality in refer-
ence to any political complications that may arise
in Europe. The Sultan was present the day before
at a regatta held on the Bosphorus, but no details
of what took place are given.

MR. MACLACHLAN, of Manchester, proposes the
preservation in our local and other museums, of the photo-
graph negatives of eminent individuals.
Rear-Admiral Lafon de Ladebat has been ap-
pointed to the command-in -chief of the French
naval station, on the west coast of Africa, in place of Rear-
Admiral Didelot, whose term of service has nearly expired.
Rear-Admiral Lafon de Ladebat will hoist his tag on board
the Armorique, now preparing for sea at Lorient.
The lifoniteur publishes an Imperial decree pro-
mulgating the convention concluded on the Ist ult, between
France and Belgium for the establishment of a direct rail-
way between Lisle and Teurnay.
EXPLOSIVE COMPOUND IN A LETTER. —On
Wednesday afternoon, while Mrs. Manley, wife of
the postmaster at Warminster, Wilts, was assisting her
husband in stamping the letters, one of them exploded with
considerable force. When Mr. Manley hastened to see
what was the matter, he found that his wife had been almost
stunned, the stamp forced out of her hand, and there was
a sulphurous smoke in the apartment. Upon examination
it appeared that one of the letters contained some detonating
composition. Though Mrs. Manley was more frightened
than hurt, the facts were made known to the Postmaster-
General, to whom the name of the sender of the letter was
communicated.

TWO PERSONS FOUND IN THE RlTER...—Yestur-
dav, Mr. J. Humphreys, the coroner for Middlesex,
received information respecting the discovery of two male
persons unknown, The first was a man about 30 ; light
brown hair and whiskers. He was dressed in fustian trousers
and Guernsey shirt, having the appearance of a shore-raker.
The only article found upon him was a clasp knife. The
body was picked up at the entrance of the Regent's Canal
Dock, Limehouse, and was conveyed to the dead-house.—
Another body was found off Stone Stairs, Lower Shadwell,
and the deceased, who was respectably dressed, was removed
to the vault at Shad well Church. Inquests will be held.
ATTEMPTED CHILD MURDER AND SUICIDE IN
MANCHESTER.—At the Police-court yesterday
morning, Emma Rothwell, the wife of a warehouseman
living in Cain-street, was charged with attempting to mur-
der two of her children and to destroy herself. The prisoner
had been for some time in a desponding condition, and yes-
terday morning about 7.30, a neighbour hearing screams
entered her house and found a child two years old with its
throat severely cut, and another slightly wounded. The
prisoner was only slightly cut about the nick. She was
remanded till Monday.

How YARMOUTH ROSE OUT OF THE WATERS.—
There could have been no Roman station at Yar-
mouth, for the very good reason that while the Roman
eagles waved over Britain, the spot on which Yarmouth
stands was not land, but sea. Like many other places
situated at the mouth of rivers, Yarmouth has sprung up
on soil partly alluvial and partly deposited by the tides and
currents of the German Ocean. It is not a little singular
that while at Aldborough and Dulwich to the south, and
at Cromer to the north, we have been losing acres of terra
firma, year by year for centuries, and while old Neptune,
by eating away the cliffs, has contrived to swallow whole a
bishop's see and the metropolis of the East Angles, here,
on the contrary, he has rejoiced to give back his stolen
property, and yearly to deposit some yards of the cleanest
and firmest sand which he had been holding in solution.
This process has been going on gradually but surely for
nearly two thousand years, if not from a date anterior to
Christianity itself.—Once a Week.
•
JOBBER DAY.—One day about four years since, as
Lord P --was going over a crossing in Regent-
street, the sweeper, whom he had at first disregarded, ap-
peared strangely familiar as well as importunate, and said,
Come, my lord, you'll give me a trifle for old acquaintance
ake." " You, indeed I Why, where can I ever have seen
you before ?" " What ! don't you remember Jobber Day,
at Eton ?" Lord P— gave his old school-fellow a sove-
reign, and passed on. This Etonian came down to sweep a
crossing before he was thirty years of age. Day had been
a very popular fellow at Eton, and very rich in "leave
books" when he left; though his ideas were very
similar to those of an old fellow-collegian of ours, who said,
the last morning he spent in Oxford, " Any gentleman may
have a pick at my books, for now I have finished my edu-
cation I never can want to set eyes on books again."
The reason we called him " Jobber" was, thstt some one
heard Day's father was a large cattle-breeder—so the
fellows, never very complimentary, said he was a rig-
jobber; and Jobber Day was his sobriquet ever after. Poor
Day, I pity him, and with him many thousands like him
who "go to the dogs" from the same cause. Day was like
a man born (we used to say) with half a bottle of champagne
in him, and who never got over the effervescence to the
hour of death.—" Cornhill Magazine" for September,
published.
The Bath Chronicle gives currency to a rumour
which is freely circulated that Mr. Sergeant Singlake in-
tends shortly retiring from the Western Circuit.
THE DANGERS OF ALPINE CLIMBING.—A letter
from Viege, in the canton of Valais (Switzerland),
states that as two English gentlemen (whose names are not
given) were last week crossing a dangerous pass of the
Simplon by the glacier of Fletachhorn, accompanied by two
guides, one of the latter fell into a deep crevice. The
gentleman immediately sent the other guide to Saes, a dis-
tance of about three leagues, to fetch ropes for the purpose
of extricating the poor fellow, who recovered sufficiently
from the effect of his fall to speak to the Englishman several
times during the other guide's absence. Owing to the depth
of the crevice and the darkness of the night, nine hours
elapsed before the man was drawn to the surface, and he
expired from exhaustion a few minutes afterwards.-
Galigritlfie Messenger.

EXHIBITION MEDALS.—By an Act passed on the
day of the prorogation it is made an offence for a trader
falsely to represent that he has obtained a medal or certifi-
cate from the Exhibition Commissioners of 1851 or 1862.
THE CURRANT CROP.—The English screw
steamer Arcadia, fro Patras, with dates to the 18th
inst., arrived at Valetta on the 22d. She brought accounts
of warm and dry weather, enabling the growers to bring in
their currant crops in good order and of first class quality.
Many steamers and sailing 'vessels were there waiting ship-
ments. The following have left :—Scotia, on the 14th, for
London; Lady Eglinton, 15th, for Liverpool ; Lady
Havelock, 17th, for London; Parthenon, 18th, for Lon-
don; Regina, 18th, for London; and Arcadia, 18th, for
Liverpool.

DR. JOHNSON'S OPINION OF EDMUND BURKE.

—Who does not remember it in Boswell, as thus
expressed by the Great Doctor 1)—" What I most envy
Burke for is his being constantly the same. He is never
what we call humdrum ; never unwilling to begin to talk,
nor in haste to leave off. . . . Burke, sir, is such a
man, that if you met him fur the first time in the street
when you were stopped by a drove of oxen, and you and he
stepped aside to take shelter but for five minutes, he'd talk
to you in such a manner that, when you parted, you would
say, this is an extraordinary man. Now you may be long
enough with me without finding anything extraordinary."
THE ENTENTE CORDIALE.—Lean horned cattle
are now conveyed by steamer from Southampton to
Carenton, in France, to be fattened in the pastirres of that
neighbourhood, and then reconveyed to this country to be
killed for the English market, so that English soldiers pro-
bably now derive their pugnacity and prowess from French
fed oxen, and the very raw material of our a-la.m ode beef
is furnished by France.
DEATH FROM EXCITEMENT DURING THE STORM.
—oo Tuesday evening the death of Miss Emily
Thibault, aged 18 years, occurred at her father's residence,
Mandeville-terrace, Kilburn, under melancholy circum-
stances. It appears that the Unfortunate young lady was
easily excited, and was always alarmed at thunder and
lightning. She was left at home apparently in good health,
but while she was occupied in washing some lace by the
window during the violent strm which passed over the
metropolis, she became seriously alarmed, fearing some-
thing would happen to her, and suddenly fell backward and
expired,

SECOND EDITION.