The Express.
London, England, 1863-09-29 00:00:00

PABHIONS POB OCTOBER.

(From Le Pond)

Now that the autumn has decidedly made its
appearance among us, all our thoughts and energies must be
directed to the study of the most becoming and appropriate
styles of dresses and materials for the NOOO. Noswith•
standing the absence from Parisof disseversl leading qualm
of fashion, many of the principal homes have be/needy/1y
employed is devidng new styles for the approbation of their
customen ca their return to the capital, or to forward to
them direct at their different chateaux or the most fashion-
able resorts at this time of the year.
In the productions to which we have referred, Dentral
fiats would seem to be more in favour than they ware bid
south ; but require relisvisg by some decided colour—such
ea sherry, mauve, or apple-green. The narrow cravats worn
isdooes will be found very useful for this purpose ; as,
though so small, they are quite sufficient to relie►e the mo-
notony. We do not advise the trimming of a dress of one
colour, with another and more striking self-colour ; it is
oaly in very exceptional cases that this produces an de-
pat affect. Black, for instaoos, may always be trimmed in
this mouser, and them are some greys, though very few,
which look well with a contrast.

The new skirts are made from five sad a ball to six and a
ball yards round the bottom, and me trimmed with ribbon,
braid, ornaments la plat d'f.psgas, or guipure weenies-
aerie wish or without bends latrenthed—the latter being
mods in an immense moiety of styles.
Sometimes, silk skirts an trimmed round with chenille
fringe bit this would probably appear more suitable for
remits of omb—indeed, for them, it is almost iodiapeo-
sable as a finials. Quoins Meg*, both wadies mad silk, is
expected to be fashionable as • trimming during the winter,
sad, on thick material, has a very good effect.
Plaid, although perhaps rather common as • trimming for
metateterers garments, is exceedingly fashionable for trim-
Walesa or poplin drosses, especially self-coloured or black.
Wadies plea* both Mr dream and cloaks, may deidally
be ooaeidered is made this meson. The plaid Telma, with
or without • hood, and trimmed with a clmaills triage to
match the tartan, is very pretty. Robes and mamas will
also be made of plaid, Allah, or velvet.
It is yet rather too soon to speak definitively about
atentlee, but we will just describe one novelty prepared in
a iirst-olase establishment, which appeared to us in wry
good mete. It is an immense collet of black velvet is rink
bouquets of flowers, graduated in site, and covertsg the
mantle within rather more than a quarter of a yard of Um,
bottom. This space left is ornamented with ovals of
Chantilly lace, made expressly for the purpose, and edged
with a wide insertion composed half of lace and half of
primsatenterie.
The Taint sad easelne, trimmed with guipure or hies
sad pmeemeaterie, will be worn. Tames, mamas. and

paistits to match the dresses, slightly wadded and lined
with silk, will be useful fur some little situate coons.
The Laois IV. vests, cut after the model of the ancient
hantingdrese—a sort of habit body with a roe.= baeque—
le in such favour at the present time, that it is more than
probable =ay of the warm dresses for the coming sessoa
will be made in the MIA form. la velve►, lined with =An,
it will have • very =arming effect; bat, of mans, only
'Amicable as an " at horns* dress.

Bodies are still made with points or postilion beeguea
' Pamententerie, as we last mouth prophesied, will be the
them* par excellence. The Figaro epaulette of pane-
. miseterie, terminating in a fringe, is very graceful and be
I emning, and jest now much adopted.
The bed, a mete, or with • waistcoat, is mere than ever
in favour. The mustiest is frequently made of while cloth.
or silk cloth ; sad will be much wore, both in white and in
coloare. For example, with a cream.coloured taffetas, •
'mistime* of white herseymere ; or, with • chocolate dress
trimmed with violet a violet waistcoat. With Havana-
brown. =tn.~ or poooeart forms • pleasing centred.. We
advise, or, whoa the waistcoat se coloured, that it ho
not tee bright, se it would produce decidedly • vulgar east.
Wide riblemsnahes are still much patronised ; but are no
longer seen with such a great amount of trimming as
formerly was fashionable. For instance. it is sot carried
up so high as the waist, but merely round the gads, sad to
about six or eight males up the mdse. Some ni the ribbons
made for this purpose are truly splendid. It must, how-
lover, be confeeed that it is a very expansive Isamu, am it
I nroeseitatem • sash to match each dress, unless • lady is
eisotiomicol enough to content herself with a black one,
trimsocd with lace or paseementerio, width is in vary good
taste, and looks well with soy dress. The centers pos-
tilion is made is black velvet with • plastron of white
moire antique, on which is placed silver buttons. This pro-
duces a very stylish effect,
Dresses when looped-up for out-of-doors wear, have
fewer festoons than formed —four bring the fashionable
number. Otte in Goat, a at the beck, and as cm
each side.
. . _

Colou;:ed stockings will he worn this winter. Grey will
be the favourite odour. Different shades of grey aad drab
will also be in good taste, but uo striking cutour suck as
scarlet or mauve. The latter would look intrinsically vulgar.
though it is sot improbable that cherry colour wall be wont
during the mason.
Nearly all the ballelmeres are of tarlatan, with under-
skirts also of the same. There is sailor a rage just now for
white lad blank. _ _

Whits lesLM•s• drogue, with • colour undeeswath, or
with ruches or pinked dounces, •rs very becomi•g for young
ladies.

Om. readers will, we are sure, be pleased with the an-
nounoament that, in all the best house., the hamlets sin
being made lower in frost and narrow, and backward at the
sides—so such more graoeful end becoming a style. dedis
is being alas much employed both for *votes and plain
bonnet., and, as the season advances, will, no dunk, be eery
fashionable. _ _

Crape bonnets are still wore. but they ere mostly mixed
with silk. A very pretty me wax made of white crape arid
tulle bouillosoi, with a ruche of s;11c and tulle round the
fie; a basalt of while eameliss, placed at the left aids.
White silk curtain. trimmed with rich blonde ; amp com-
posed of tulle sod bloods. with a bouquet .4 auneliaa
Velvet teapots are brgiouiaz to make their ripe...rants;
bat at present they tun much too heavy, uulvas composed of
velvet sad maps, on tulle and blonde, which has a good
affect, sad will he much wore.

Sertorrtne BALLOOMING.—Yesterday every ar-
rangement bed bolo completed at Wolverbamptoo for the
powwow &moot on Inman of toe tolicoa uonooome v< the
British Association, the balloon had received 80,000 cubic
feet of light gas that had been manufactured for it since
ltetu ohm altered...in. the inatnimente had lven fixed fo them.,
Mr. °Llama bad taken his mat before them, and bad omit-
mewed he Mike his oincrv.itioos, whets Mr. Caswell stood
is the netting sad addressing Lord Wmtteeley and the
&rambled spectators said that r entrusted with the safety
id Mr. Glaughtt's id.. he noi.r. aonousce that in Ma opinion
the day was too windy for the sacoot—the instruments
would certainly he dammed, sod Mr. Clef-hoes life would
be eodaogered. This took place at three o'clock ; but the
wind bad been equally high all the day. At Mr. einwell's
suggestion tbe reset was then deferred for two hours ; but
when a quarter to des arrived it was further postponed
until seven this (Tuesday) nioroine, the hslicou being io
the meantime hauled down upon the car, to be guarded
throughout the eight by Mr. Cowell and ball-s-dozon
amistants. _ _

iirxrLterry of Fixrinoi MANNIXIA—Tbe grand
dignitaries who accompanied the Emperor of Russia to Fin
lend, mid who hays just returned to St. Petersburg with
his Majesty, hear witness to the extraordinary simplicity of
the mode of life in that country, and which is an such direct
opposite") to that now marealiug in the Russian capital. The
chief of the secret polies, Prince Dolcomuky, paid a suit
to the Archbishop of Helsingfors, wile.. to the aurpine et
the former, the oely of the ecclesiastical dignitary
took the light (rem the archbishop's table, and with it opened
the door sod admitted the prince. On hie departure the
archbishop accompanied him to the door with the same
light in his inapt ()re moat he acquainted with the pre-
main luxury of St. Petersburg, and with the het that an
immense number of earranta Are maistaitied at the meanie's

of the nobles, in order to appreciate the hilarity with ehigh
the eq.:A.l of tine answilota is received. A still more comic
adventure fell to the lut of Primes Gortebakoif when
visited the civil governor of Ilelaingfon. Am the ptioot'a
earraate rang, the governor came to the parlour %Milo. and
lamented that he *weld ant admit hie highness. as thereat
bad goes out and bad taboo with her the key of the inmate
door. The governor added that he hod himself just returned,
and hod been eleliged to get is through the parlour wiadow.
TIM prima, se goes the story, did the same.
CAPPOSI OP A SLAVYK.—Ou the Zed of August
a satimmer—name and nation unkuown—captured by
H.M.S. /repeat. arrived at Bt. Helena with 414 sleva, ; sad
on the nth of that mouth the Espoir also arrived at the
roadstead with 111 slaves. the remainder of the surviving
negro.. who users on board the wbot.aer when captured.
Tare Insediwg .1 the males shove twelve rears of age, who
wise willing to serve as soldier., have hero solvated for
service hi the West India regiment.; the renisisieg por-
tion, In maim and 9 females, have been lodged, node,
the eats of the government superiatendrat, at itapert's
OILMAL PALACe. Oge SHILLING DAT..--
DIONGIVP, fisre. 9M—Admission on payment. 2,066;
iilha by season tickets, 841 ; Una'. 3.526.