The Express.
London, England, 1864-11-28 00:00:00

FASHIONS FOR DECEMBER.

(Fran Lt Poikt.)

Bach month, as it arrives, seems to bring with it
an increasing number of novelties ; the beet houses are
crowded with new designs. La mode has been so varied
and capricious for some time past, that it has been
no easy matter to select novelties for our reads*.
Formerly a dressmaker had but to say to her customer,
"Such a style is no longer worn—this is the present
fashion ;" but now a lady has her own ideas of dress,
and the skilful modiste knows how to advise, so th►t that
which is most becoming may be mdected ; which, after all,
gives the greatest charm to dress.
The mare antique of today is no longer the simple moire,
elegant as that was ; but it is now made striped, flowered,
spotted, with figures resembling hieroglyphics, &c., in doll
silk or velvet. The same style is also produced in taffet.ir.
Satin is worn plain, but is preferred with narrow strips of
velvet. Some magnificent silks are made in large checks of
satin and gros-grain of plain colour, with wide stripes of
black, on which are brochfea flowers in bright colour* ; or
spotted gros-grains of all shades of colour, with bands of
white velvet, on which are wreaths of flowers in natural
colours.

The materials we have already named are, of course, only
for pandas toilettes. Very little trimming is needed, as
they are en elegant in themselves ; but on plain silks or
satins—which are still preferred by some—trimmings,
whether of lace, pusementerie, feathers, or flowers, are
literally crowded.
Double skirts are pining favour. The upper one is gene-
rally open up the front and back, to the waist, so as to show
the under one, which should be of a different colour.
The under skirt is simply trimmed with • narrow flounce,
set on in flat plaits, headed with a paaementerie cord. The
upper skirt, which is generally of satin, is very much
trimmed, either with cords, plaques, buttons, chains of
passementerie and bomb, and, indeed, all manner of trim-
ming'. However elegant this style may look for tall
women, it must plainly be seen that it meant portably be
so for those below the ordinary height ; and therefore, in
that case, it should be trimmed as little as possible.
Skirts are very much trained ; cut quite round at the
bottom
as so to make them set out. This is certainly
ognio's for in-doors wear ; but, as the length of dress is
not always is proportion to the sue of the apartment, a lady
must expect to have her dress frequently trodden upon.
However, one thing is certain, that la modes of this year
are much more becoming than those of past winters; and
that, by making some slight modifications, • lady of taste
may be sot only elegantly but becomingly dressed.
For morning-dress, poplins, reps, sad foulards are still
the favourite materiels. _ _

Basques are gaining favour daily. They are made some-
times in one fashion, sometimes in another ; but
bisques of all shapes and size' are decidedly the fashion.
There is, however, one thing against which we moat
warn our readers—that is, wearing a band over
the bisque ; nothing can be more ungraceful. Some
have even worn them over paletUte ; we need soaroalY point
out the absurdity of inch a style. We do not wish to say a
word against the band—we have always admired the round
body and band—but then let it be the accompaniment of
the round body, not an addition to the baNue, which is
it. ornamental and becoming ill WWI!. Th• mixture of
the two is simply absurd.
Sleeves are still worn nearly tight ; good:news for the
winter.
_

Jackets are the favourite wear for at home drew. They
are, however, admissible even for evening wear, when made
of suitable materials. The veste Rune is very elegant, made
of velvet, trimmed with rich peamementerie or fur, and
without sleeves. The waistcoat, which is generally of light
coloured foulard, should have long fall sleeves fastened into
• wristband. Some of these jackets are trimmed with a hied
of feathers, an ornament which is daily gaining favour.
The paletot it still the favourite form of outdoor dress.
They are made short, and drawn in at the waist, so as
nearly to fit the figure. Coloured plush, with fancy but-
tons, is very roach used, and with many has taken the place
of velvet. The latter material is trimmed very richly,
either with guipure, passetnenterie, or fur.
Ramsdw are made quite short, with or without hoods.
The hoods are much worn this year ; md, when well made,
are very becoming.
The bonnets—which are worn even smaller than they
were last month—admit of greet variety in the trimmings ;
indeed almost an is employed foe this purpose. Thus
pestle, jet, 'to, fiowers, feathers, lace, chenille, seem
equally in favour ; each, however, in small quantities. sc•
cording to the rise of the bonnet, and even that princi-
pally at the back in place of the curtain. Flowers of velvet
glace are preferred, and also leaves powdered, both of
which have • very charming effect, and form very pretty
trimmings.
Velvet is mach used for strings, and with good taste, we
think, as it is certainly very becoming.
Soused our beet houses are preparing marvellously elegant
head.dreome for the winter mama. Strings of pawls,
aigrettes of every kind, pink rock coral, small foreign birds
placed as bouquets of room or daisies, butterfiles in their
natural colour,, the wisp of flies mounted with coral, or
flowers, are amongst the many m►terials employed.

Mr. G. A. Bala arrived at Liverpool in the Persia,
on Saturday. Mr. Sala expressed himself as highly
delighted in being once more on British ground, hie MOM
recent personal =perinea of American society hailer, bun
the revers of agreeable. On dit, that on board the
Mr. Sala was " emit to Coventry " by the American passen-
gers, who state that he would not have escaped " sow-
" bad he remained much longer in the Northern
States.—Lirerpool Albion.
Ware AND Brougara.—The will of Richard
Gibbs, Seq., bite of the City of London, teabroker, and of
Upper Tooting, Surrey, was proved in London on the 29th
October, by his relict, the mole executrix. The personalty
' was sworn under 100,0001. After making several bequests,
he leaves to hie wife a life interest in the residua of his pro-
perty, with power of disposition over a certain portion. The
ultimate reversionary residue is left warmest some of his
nieces sod others. To his partner, William Weston, Faq.. he
leaves the option of retaining 10,0001., at 4 per cent. inte-
rest, from which annual sum of 400& annuities of various
amounts to twelve persons ere to be kept up, the
baguets being chiefly to individuals who had been
or were in his employ ; sod on the decease of
these annuitants the principal sum of 10,000& will
revert to twenty-three charitable institution. The
legatees are numerous, and the legacies are to be paid free
of duty. There are specific bequests of pictures, ks., to
many of hie friends, members of the City Club. and to one
of the " Round Table." To each of his clerks who have
Deep four in his employ he leaves a legacy of 1001., sod
201. to earl of the others ; also 101. to each of the porters,
and lepries to his servant.. His business, carried on under
the firm of Basra. Gibbs and Co., be states, "was founded,
and reared up by him, and with the sentience of his partner
haa met with somas, after many years of indomitable per-
severance and indnah7 ;" and at the conclusion of his will
are than words, " I thank Almighty God for inclining my
heart from childhood to feel 'for others' woes.'" The wfil
bears date July 4, 1864, and his death occurred_ by an acci-
dent on the 7th of October lea& in his seventy-61th yaw.—
Illustrated London News. _

Mrangsors Aaaaryr.—On Friday night one of
Sir Humphrey De Trafford's keepers was attacked and
nearly murdered at Trafford Park, near Manchester. The
keeper, Richard Edwards, heard the barking of a dog in the
direction of • cover near his own home about 9 o'clock, and
taking up his gun he went out, telling his wife there were
some poachers near at hand and he would drive them away.
He had not proceeded fez when his feet became entangled in
a net, and he was proceeding to gather it up when he re-
ceived a blow upon his left arm from a heavy bludgeon.
The night was windy and very dark, with • drooling rain,
and he could not see whether he had more than one assailant
to deal with. In order to frighten the supposed poachers
and to bring help, he fired his gun in the air. He soon
found, however, that he would have acted more wisely
in receiving the charge in self-defence. Irumediately
after firing two or three men fell upon him savagely with
bludgeons, and, striking him on the head, laid him seamless
on the ground. While on the ground they beat him re-
lentlanly about the face, head, and shoulders for some
time. His wife, who had remained watching and listening
at the door, beard the heavy thud of the blows, and, be-
coming alarmed, seized• keeper's whistle which was in the
cottage and sounded it with all the power she mull It is
supposed the poachers feared this was • signal from other
keepers, and they then made off. They took with them
the gun and keeper's hat, but the hat we afterwards found
at some distance from the spot. They also took with them
their net, but left the pegs with which it had been fastened
down. The keeper was found almost exhausted, with his
face and head a mass of bruises. When hie wounds had
been dressed by a surgeon, and after a night's rest, the
fears at first eotertamed for his life were considerably
abated, and it is now thought he may recover.
,
ESCAPE AND CAPTURE or A CONVICT. —Bany on
Saturday morning daring the time a party of several hub-',
died convict' employed on the dockyard extension works
were engaged on St. Mary's Island, adjoining the dockyard,
ogle of the number, a convict named Charlie Cook, who is '
under • lengthened term of penal servitude, contrived
to elude the vigilance of the warden and convict
keepers, end effect his escape. The prisoner at the
time was working on the new factory buildings, sad
shortly after he had disappeared his absence was discovered.
Prompt measures were at once taken to secure his capture,
and, intelligence having been forwarded to the dockyard
end convict prison, Superintendent Strength and all the
available police under his charge, together with • numerous
party of warders, commenced scouring the neighbourhood,
while extra guards were posted to prevent the convict leav-
ing the island. After a search occupying nearly three hours
be was at length discovered in a remote portion of the lased
onainaled in a disused brichkiln, when he was eat once cos-'
'eyed back to the prison to undergo the punishment in-
flirted in the ease of convicts attempting to escape. It may
be remarked that, although there are always upwards of
1,000 convicts employed at St. Man's Prison, and on the
public works at ahain, only one has succeeded in effect-
his maps, and although there have been numerous at-
tempted esespea, the convicts have, with one single excep-
tion, bass invariably recaptured.