The Express.
London, England, 1855-08-27 00:00:00

LONDON, MONDAY EVENING, AUGUST 27, 1865.

No. 2,814.]

LPERIAL COMPANY of FRENCH GLASS-
wow, kr the 11•111 Mir TOM OL 110171.38 mad
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HE DAILY NEWS: LONDON MORNING
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THE QUEEN'S VISIT TO PARIS.

THE REVIEW IN THE CHAMPS DE MARS.
CDROM 091 SPROUL OORDISPONDRItT4
PARIS, SATURDAY EVINIRO.

Whatever desk there may be as to the compara-
tive merits of the two patios:sin other matters, of one
thing we may be quite certain,and that is that in any-
thing of the mince of military parade they have no
equal. The vast mama of disciplined troops they
have always at command, the splendid parade ground
they have in the Champs de Mars, and the general
military spirit of the people, enable the authorities at
any time, and on the shortest notice, to get up a
military spectacle, not °sly attractive in an artistic
point of view, bat of high moral value, se showing to
all whom it may renown that even with one immense

lows desethere up and down, the central govern-
ment can still display on the favourite exercise ground
of Paris an amount of organised physical faros sniff-
iest to meet all emergencies, whether at home or
abroad. It will hardly be necessary to say that on so
mensnal and unexpected an occasion as the expected
peewee of the Queen of England more than usual
pelnewere taken to render the spectacle as attractive
is penal& The public were quite confident that
dile wield be the me, and consequently thronged to
the geemd in numbers far greater than had sue
boss mess present even at this their favourite pastime.
By favour of the authorities, I had a position close to
the imperial pavilion, all the approaches to whisk
were rigorously guarded against every one not sind•
hely favoured; but on every side of the immense
plain I could use the mums of human beings packed
as closely as they could stick, and every window at
all within view filled with anxious face", all turned
to the segue of action. The number of men reviewed
exceeded 40,000, and comprised all the various
arms of the French service—lnfantry, cavalry,
and artillery. First there was a splendid brigade of
the Imperial Guards, seemingly the finest infantry in
Europe, tall, and rather slender, but with a fine
martial air, and marching with a precision almost
mechanical, and fairly emulating the much-lauded
English 4. Untidily." Then there was the three first
divisions of the army of the East, comprising many
regiments of the line, bronzed, hard-looking little
fellows, who sometimes got into a ruck, but, generally
speaking, marched in first-rate order. Then there
were grenadiers, voltigurs, and gendarmerie in-
numerable ; bat it would hardly be interesting to an
English reader to give him the whole details of a
French order of the day. It will be sufficient to say
that besides the Imperial Guard there were a
dozen regiments of the line, exclusive of the
picturesque Boum*, who seem to be special
favourites with tongue here. The cavalry,
which was really magnificent, comprised the
select Guides, with whose uniforms the people
of London have already =dean& pleasant acquaint-
ance ; the massive Carbineen, in their light blue
coats and brazen armour; the splendid Cuirassiers of
the Guard, who looked as if they could charge through
anythig ; and several regiments of Light Horse, in
varied and elegant uniforms, and who struck me as
siding with considerable grace and certainty of seat.
The whole were finely mounted, although some of the
Woo bad heads awfully like that of a camel, and
all mimed exceedingly docile and obedient to their
ridges The Guides had, I suspect, English horses, as
there was a marked difference in their appearance.
There were no less than ten batteries of artillery,
each gun being drawn by six small serviceable hems,
and ash numerously snorted by the portion of the
hese which is appointed to that duty. Forty
thousand men appear a great number on paper, but
whoa all alive, and regularly marshalled on the
Wma plain of the Champs de Mars, they loeked
lib so many black and white squares on
a chessboard, only that they wen not at all
numerous enough fully to justify the simile. On
marching to the ground, to which they cams for the
greatest part by way of the Pout de Jena, they were
placed in position at a great distance from where I
stood, the infantry on one side and the cavalry on the
other, but the lineament fanfare informed us that they
were all very busy in preparing to perform their parts
properly. Subsequently we could see the black
masses break up and form new combinations, and
I ultimately, as well as I could judge, they formed into
lines placed at considerable distances, the cavalry
/maiming at the bottom, the obvious intention being
that the royal carriages should pees in and out
threngh them on their arrival OD the ground. I
abseil bore observe that the Imperial balcony was
arranged within the portico of the Polytechnic School,
the facade of which ruts along to the Invalides,which
it adjoins, and there were on each side two handsome
tribunes for those who having been admitted within
the lines did not like the fatigue of following more
nearly the movements of the troops. On one aide, there-
fore, was the Imperial balcony, and opposite, but a
hog way off, the river, the whole intervening space
being devotion to the troops, except a pretty wide
larder running all round, and which was covered
with the tribunes of the speculators in spectacle,
who ea this occasion must have been amply rema-
nded for their rather crazy erections. The deco-
rations of the Imperial balcony, as well as those of
the two tribunes, were Mbar neat than splendid, and
bad evidently been improvised for the occasion.
They were rather sparingly covered with crimson
velvet, and poroisirs, in the usual manner, with the
four allied colours, and the Imperial eagle, as usual,
spread his protecting wings over all. I noticed many
English fame einompt the visitors of the Meade.,
amongst others Mr. Vernon Smith and his lady, and
a good sprinkling of English military and naval
uniforms. There was a numerous body of the new
police in attendance, and the greatest politeness was
observed in showing the visitors to their places. It
wee, of course, my business to poke my nose into all
sorts of forbidden places, with the certainty that I
should be requested to remove the next minute,
bat I had two expedients, which ultimately enabled
me to go wherever 1 wanted. The first
was to throw myself on my insular defi-
ciency in the French language, and my maid
to present &small document, signed by the Minimise
of Public Safety, the very sight of which was NIL
dent to deprive the most resolute policemen of bbl
self-possession for several minutes. Drawn up be
smart array before the Imperial pavilion was a very
remarkable body of infantry, whose delicate and
refined lineaments, extreme youth, and gay plumes
reminded one strongly of the formidable army that
Madame Vestris used to esmsnand in The Iterincibks.
This was a special battalion of the young gentlemen

from the College of Bt. Cyr, who were thug allowed
to form a guard of honour for the two female en&
reigns—a task which was no doubt quite a labour of
love with so gallant and debonair a body of warriors.
I trust I shall not in these observations be thought to
derogate for a moment from the high soldierly bear-
ing of the young soldiers of Bt. Cyr, amongst whom
there is evidently mush material foe future distinc-
tion. I merely give the impression produced at first
by their extreme youthfulness and smart costume,
to which one of high respect for their military profi-
ciency was subsequently added when I saw the mas-
terly precision with which they performed their evo-
lutions.

At ti o'clock exactly a tremendous braying
of the trumpets, a gallopping up and down of officer,,
a rapid forming of various positions, informed us that
the imperial carriages and cavalcade had crossed the
Past de Jena, and were entering the ground. In
Mfb Incident a sharp rattle of awful import announced
that 40,000 men presented arms. The oolours oould
be seen drooping all along the various columns of
troops, and the whole of the regimental bands struck
up " God save the Queen," with a peculiarly grand
and solemn effect. The Maim of music came floating
up with more or lees of distinctness according to die.
tenor, and with it came the hearty shouts of the
people, who are really beginning sensibly to improve
in the truly British art of cheering. The drums beat
incessantly as the cavalcade palmed along, so that,
taking everything together, the greet historical and
interastioaal importance of the imoasion, the im-
mense number of men under arms, the enormous

crowds of people, the mean of musical eouod emitted
by the military bands, the colours aid the varied
uniforms, an effect was produced on the
spectator that it would be easier to con-
ceive than describe. A nearer approach showed
us that the Queen and Royal children were in an
open carriage, round which were grouped on horse-
back the Emperor, who wore the Order of the Garter,
His Royal Highness Prince Albert, Prince Napoleon,
and Prince Adalbert of Bavaria, with a crowd of
French officers, amongst whom General Canrobert
was an object of especial interest I paid great atten-
tion to the shouting of the troops, which we in Eng-
land have been informed is regulated amongst our
allies by the word of command. Here, I have been
informed, that the Emperor has abolished so absurd
a practice; but on this occasion there was cheering
enough, and it certainly produced oa me a satis-
fied impression of spontaneity ; indeed, how could
soldiers as gallant as the French do otherwise than
receive the Royal lady who had oome amongst them
with enthusiastic welcome? It had a capital effect;
and " Viva la Reins r rEmpereur !" seemed to
fall upon the ear in a very pleasant sort of sequence.
You will eseilyimagine that to pass slowlyup and down
through such immense ammo of men was the busi-
ness of some time, and when it was fi drilled, the whole
cortege approached the Royal pavilion. I never in my
life saw so brilliant and ntagoillosiat a staff as that
by which the Queen's carriage wee surrounded. At
one door rode the Emperor, mounted oa his favourite
chestnut, which on this occasion exhibited •
saddle of crimson velvet; and on the other,
rircinlbert, dressed as an English field marshal,
and quite justifying by his appearance the general
verdict of the ladies, that he was a belhomme—aroand
them was quite • squadron of magnificently dressed
officers; and last though not least, my friends of the
Hotel de Rile, the Arab Shiecks, who although
mounted on magnificent barbs, looked, in their volt'•
minous white mantles, exceedingly like a brigade of
old women going to market. When the carriage drew
up opposite the Book, his Imperial Majesty dis-
mounted in a moment, and nodding familiarly to
Prince Albert, as if to say, " I shall be back in
a moment," ran with great agility after the royal
carriage, and was ready at the door to assist her
Majesty in alighting, and subsequently to conduct
her to the imperial pavilion, when the Princess
Mathilde was in waiting to receive her Majesty.
Immediately after the Emperor returned, remounted
his horse, and the whole of the magnificent caval-
cade rode off to see the troops defile. This opera-
tion, which in England we call " marching past,"
took up some time, the infantry having to form, first
in battalions, and then in divisions, at the head of
which were the young gentlemen from St. Cyr and
the infantry of the guard. The artillery followed io
batteries, making that strange rumbling noise that
strikes so terribly on the ear of any one
who knows what it means; and finally, the ca-
valry in close columns, forming, by a
long way, the most magnificent portion of
the spectacle. They came up the ground slowly
at first, but when the angle was to be passed they
swept by like • whirlwind, making the ground
tremble under their horses' feet, and then, suddenly
checking their speed into a walk, passed slowly in
front of the royal pavilion, their band playing as they
severally passed the national anthem. This termi-
nated the review, which all through had been carried
on under the most favourable auspices. The weather
was most propitious—a cool, cloudy day, so different
from the torrid atmosphere we had previously had for
some days; and, different from the invariable prac-
tice at English reviews, the rain politely held off
until the evolutions were nearly finished. Every one
looked happy and contented, and not a single acci-
dent disturbed the enjoyments of the day.

THE IMPERIAL BALL AT
Mom OUR SPICIAL CORRR

Who shall describe the anxiety that pervaded the
fashionable world of Paris respecting the great
crowning festivity of Saturday evening P The various
great functionaries who had the disposal of tickets
were daily besieged by the sort of enemy most diffi-
cult to resist, namely, crowds of beautiful young
ladies, both French and foreign, who felt morally
convinced they should expire if not permitted to
assist at the great ball which Napoleon 111. was
about to give to his illustrious guest the Queen of
England. All the notabilitie•—and Paris is a popu-
lation of notabilities—expected to be present, in
order to air their numerous decorations, and take up
the room which otherwise would be allotted to the
dance. By the way, it is a pity that the atmosphere
of gilded saloons, and the glare of wax lights, and the
strains of Messrs. Strauss and Dufresne, have a charm
for people to a far more advanced period of life
in Paris than in England. You see every ball-room
crowded with old men and women grim ea death and
yellow as parchment, who sit and gaze and glare half
unconsciously at the bustle about them, and appear to
the matter-of-fact stranger as if they would be much
better at home nursing carefully the flame which was
already flickering in the socket. However, it is the
mode ; everyone wanted to go, and everyone, young
and old, applied to the Duo de Bassani, for tickets. I
had almost despaired of obtaining one, but at the
eleventh hour the authorities relented, and I and one
or two other gentlemen similarly situated were pre-
sented with the much-coveted card. Then came the
question of conveyance--all the carriages were en-
gaged—and of court costume, all the tailors being
exhausted on their own counters. Time was short,
the emergency was pressing ; but patience
and perseverance will overcome anything, and
so after numerous mishaps which would be ludicrous
in the reading, but were by no means so in the in-
Septic.), I found myself, at exactly half past nine on
Saturday, quietly seated ia a remise, whisk formed a

portion eta gnu, about two mile" long, the first car-
nage at which was entering the grand emir, and the
last was half-way down on the road between Ver-
sailles and SG Cloud. There was nothing for it but
to wait, as, whenever an impatient coachman at-
tempted to break the line, be was at once pounced
upon by • policeman, who was always attended by
two fierce looking mounted dragoons, whose busi-
ness it was to support hie authority. It took quite
of the vestibule, and, in the meantime, the Queen and
threessurturs of an hour to bring us up to the entrance
Emperor had arrived, and the explosions of feu
Jade** had commenced upon the terrace. The
whole atmosphere was filled with coloured fire, and
the parade of the palace was as distinctly visible as in
the middle of the day, having, in addiuon to the re.
fired= of the fireworks, beading. of gas round every
ionise, and immense candelabra arranged at inter-
vals in the grand cow. Once inside the well-
guarded entrance, the visitor found himself in •
moment surrounded by a crowd of brilliant mei-
feels, splendid toilettes. and glittering deooratioes.
Every military service in Europe except the Russian
was ted, and there was also a considerable
spri • of English naval ceases. The Arab @hoicks
were these, wrapped up as warmly as penal, and
wend to sensider there was some want of respect
sham roes in the little delay that occurred in usher.
=lmmo up the grand seedier. The tickets were
by a very respectable functionary in black,
who stood at a small table surrounded by a numerous
body of footmen in the imperial liveries, and who
bestowed marked attention on all the English visi-
tors Ones at the top of the stairs we were in fairy
land at once, and it would be in vain to attempt any-
thing like • description of the scene that presented
itself. The general reminiscence of Versailles is of a
visit in the middle of a hot dusty summer's day, and
a stroll through a succession of vest and rather dreary
chambers, senesced only by the monotonous hum of
the local einereos. Bet on this occasion every room
was filled with gay company, and each vista as you
looked down sesned a perfect ma of wax lights, and
gilding, and velvet, and flowers. The French evi-
dently like plenty of ight, and on every. public
01101 Mos have Immense numbers of boogies in their
mut salons. but at this ball all ordinary attempts at
MIWNW. oa were outdone, as it is said that no less
awn than 60,0001. was expended in wax lights alone.
Bearything had evidently been newly burnished and
mbeshed, and the effect of the whole was such as
mimpletely to dazzle the spectator. But it is said to
require five hours to go through all the state apart-
ments of Versailles, and it would take nearly as long
M describe them in detail, while the faithful descrip•
dens of the omnipresent Galiguani renders such a
task wholly unnecessary. Every one as he or she
entered the first of the grand apartment', upon which
Louis XIV. had lavished so much of the money of the
people, first took a dazzled glance at all the splendour
that surrounded them, and then turned to the
windows, from which an excellent view was
obtainable of the faux d'artffice just then ap-
proaching the culminating point of their
=hnic glories. I was just in time for a mag-
tshower of bouquets, and the representation
of Windsor Castle, which was really a very imposing
aid well executed device. The ladies clapped their
hands with delight, and eves the grey generals and
grave senators, who stood in deep circles around
them, seemed to enjoy the sight as much as the
youngest of the company. At the same moment the
Queen, Hamer, and the two warts were in the
vestibule specially reserved at some distance off, but
the entrance was completely blocked up with stars,
garters, and cordons; diamonds, feathers, and flowers ;
stout, slight, young, old, and middle-aged people.
The only resource was to slide carefully along the well
waxed Room contented to make about • yard progress
every ten mieutes'exereise of this amustng evolution.
Then we might look up at the gilded ceilings or
eat at the windows, as nothing could be seen in a
horizontal direction but the heads of the men and the
hoed-dream of the ladies. The progress of the pil-
grim was clew, but by no means painful, as when
advanced a little further, by tuning his eyes to the
left, he could see through the window one of the moat
bssatital pieces of illumination that could possibly be
Imagined. Round the two oblong pieces of orna-
mental water that are situated immediately opposite
the Grand Appartements, the Imperial artists had
arranged a series of bouquets in variegated lamps, and
is the centre of each lake an elaborate piece having
mese appropriate mythological application. Not a
soul could be seen within the whole of this vast en-
closure—nothing but lights and water, so that it
looked like some beautiful fairy palace that had just
been summarily depopulated by the wand of the evil
genius. Thus we slid on through Salon d'Heroule,
Sallee d'Abandaoce, de Venus, and de Diane, and
Salon de Mars, wishing to stop and look at every-
thing, but irresistibly impelled onwards by the
human tide that flowed faster and faster u it
approached more nearly the sound of the dance
music that was coming down from the grand
ball-room. The passage, although slowly and cau-
tiously navigated, was not without its perils. Those
who now for the first time found themselves begirt
with a sword came to the conclusion that it was any-
thing but a convenient, however ornamental, appec-
di The ladies gave little screams, as every now
and then they felt a sudden cheek, and on looking
round beheld an immense carabinier assiduously
attempting to disengage his spur from • tremendous
rent in one of the gay dresses upon which a whole
previous week of taste and labour had been ex-
hausted ; while at every:second moment some re-
v/astable personage was observed struggling faintly
with the billows; now it was the venerable Canto-
ryski, for whom everyone attempted to make way ;
then it was General Nereus, covered with orders
and ribbons, and who seemed very well able
to make way for himself ; now some one pointed
out General Csnrobert, a dapper Immune].
looking man, bearing a strew likeness to
the Bonaparte family, and then Horace Vernet,
attended to receive this much prized ovation. Every
one was in uniform, and almost every one was deep-
rated, but still there was the most perfect equality,
if not liberty, as not all the orders in the books of
chivalry could enable any man to move an inch
beyond his neighbour. The great point of attraction
was the grand ball-room, the far-famed sone de glances,
where it was understood the two sovereigns were
holding brilliant court. This magnificent salon, sup-
posed to be the finest ball-room in the world, is
nearly 260 feet long, by. 40 feet in width, and about
as many in height. It is called the Salle de Glans,
became opposite each of its seventeen windows, the
wall is pierced with uniform apertures, and each
aperture is filed with looking-glue, so as to appear
as if there were windows on both sides. The deco-
rations are quite in the French taste, with pillars of
porphyry, and bronze pedestals having stators in the
niches, representing the more popular members of
the Pantheon. The ceiling, which is covered with alle-
gorical paintings, struck me as being exceedingly fine,
giving quite the idea of pressure in the more fragile
decorations beneath. Oa this occasion festoon of
flowers were suspended between the candeliers, and
some people praised, and some condemned the into-
'Mimi, and at each end of the room was an immense
orchestra, in which respectively Messrs. Strauss and
Defreine discoursed most exquisite music for the
benefit of the dancers. But where were they P
Nobody could turn round much less duos, and to
the volatile Frenchman, with whom the waltz sad
polka are pastimes only varying in their degrees at
intensity, to play him the finest music in the world
while he was thus pinioned was only adding insult to
injury. There was only cue consolation,we were slowly
approaching the Imperial dais, and should see queens
and emperors, and heirs apparent, and princes of the
blood dancing like any ordinary people. On ap-
proaching the sacred boundaries the great officers at
the imperial household in their magnificent scarlet
embroidered coats, might be sun resolutely keeping