The Express.
London, England, 1864-12-30 00:00:00

Tte Ofprt%%.

LONDON, FRIDAY EVENING, DECEMBER 30, 1864.

FASHIONS FOR JANUARY.
(From Le F01k,.)
There are so many materials in rogue for the
present season that surely all tastes must find something
with which they c►n be pleased. Linsey " knickerbocker "
flannel, and composite materials, such as silk and woollen
reps, or woollen poplin, are made into morning dresses and
robes de chambre. Silks, moires, satins, and velvets, are
only applicable to toitettes de ville, and dinner-dress or
ball-room wear. Tulle or tarlatan., crape, and Cliambiry
gauze are worn over satin or silk skirts.

The flannel" now worn io and out of doors are of a much
thicker musks than those to which we are accustomed, and
are called molletoo. The most fashionable are of scarlet
or bright blue, with small designs in black. The pattern of
the material is simulated in the trimmiogi ; for instance,
should the drone be scarlet, with narrow black stripes,
narrow braids will be employed to ornament it. If with
spots or squares of black, buttons of the same form will be
used am trimming.

Many dream and cloaks in these simple fabrics are
trimmed with rows of round cord, or tubular braid, on which
are sprinkled small steel or jet beads. Thole cords are
placed in rows round the skirt, and carried up each breadth
as high as the lame ; or, in some mese, straight up the
middle et the back. Morning dresses thus trimmed are
generally made with a round plain body, and small bisque
behind only. The sleeves of these balsas are always small,
with elbow-seam.

With thews dresses it is enstomary to wear a pettily:ma of
the same, over which the skirt is raised ; they are also
accompanied by cloaks of the same, short half•6tting psi.-
tots or camas, with or without hood. This style of dress
and cloak alike is now considered only suitable for more*
toilette, and is rarely sees in any dressy materiel with the
exception of velvet.

For toilettes de visite, moire. satin, faille silk (that is
unwatered moire), taffeta antique, and velvet, are much
worn. The figured moires are mill in fashion, and require
very little trimming. Passementerie with beads is much
worn with silk ; fur, lace, or feather trimming is more
suitable for satin and velvet.

Double skirts am often moo either for wilting, dinner.
or ball drew. If closed all round, they are generally looped
up ; if open, the opsoings are at the hack, as well as at
the front. In many cases these skirts are made of different
colours and materials, such as moire, or sates over velvet,
or two shades of the same colour. This families of wearing
double skirts is much adopted for ball dimes, the under.
skirt generally being white and the tunic of colour. The
low body with coat bemuses will be much worn if the dress
is of silk. This corsage can be made of black velvet, hand-
somely trimmed with jet beads or seed pearls.
The sorties de bay have not altered much in form, the
circular being the favourite shape. This, it mule in white
plush, with a thick Llama or chenille fringe, is very ele-
gant and suitable to the @ramose. Many opera cloaks that
we have seen were of scarlet, trimmed with black lace, or
embroidered in black sod white doss silks. The little
hoods uow worn over the head-dress during the transit to
and from the carriage are very pretty, sod in many owes
becoming. We give the preference to the Marie Stuart
shape, with • deep curtain falling over the shoulders. If
these are made in lace on some transparent materials, they
are, of course, lined to match the dress or cloak which they
accompany.
The moot elegant cloaks for morning wear are made of the
" Mount St. Bernard" cloth ; the half-fittieg paletot being
the moat fashioaable form for this materiaL U made in
white, these cloaks are excessively distioguis, but only
suitable for carriage and quite dress wear.
Mantles of velvet pile or cloth are trimmed with passe-
menteria, or the curly Astrthan ; other furs and feather
ornaments being reserved for velvet. Beaded passementerie
is v$ successfully employed with guipure on both dresses
and cloaks.

Lest winter the cloaks that were trimmed with far had
one radian only. This season the cloaks are edged with a
deep bead of far ; the revers, collar, sad epaulettes are also
of fur. We have IMO one half-fitting pakdot of violet
velvet, trimmed with a broad baud of Chinchilla ; a deep
polities of the same, pointed at the back end front. Small
epaulettes and cuffs of the same fur. This palatot was
lined with quilted white silk, and was intoned to be worn
with a violet velvet dress, trimmed with a band of Chin-
chilla, carried round the skirt and up the back seam. The
bonnet was of violet velvet, the crown being formed of
drooping white feathers. The muff of violet quilted satin,
edged with Chinchilla. The boots of violet velvet, with
band of fur round the iambi.
Bonnets have not altered in form since we last wrote on
the 'object, the curtains having entirely disappeared.
Ball coiffures are more elegant then ever ; holly, with
berries and icicles of glass, forms a very pretty SIMI suit.
able head-dress for this season. In fact, no wreath or
flower headdress ie considered complete without flees
icicles or dew drops.
For elderly ladies the feachon of lace over flowers and
bloods is the prevailing style.
We me a great quantity of quilted velvet and satin both
for bowsaw and muffs ; the latter, if made of only plain
for, are considered quite negligis, excepting for young
ladies. The rule for young ladies' dress is the same that
always has been, and re suppose always will be in vogue—
viz., what is demi-toilette for married ladies is visiting
dress for young girls; moires, velvets, and satins
being worn by any young unmarried lady with the least
knowledge of the art of drew
. . _ .

There is no alteration in the form of cull's and collars at
present ; thee are still embroidered with white or coloured
bees, butterflies, flours de lie, The most Cisbionable
ornament at the present moment is is the shape of a
swallow.
Crests and initials are sometimes embroidered on cuffs
and collars, as well as handkerehiefs, the latter being very
handsome, though our elegantes have at length understood
that these articles are fur the pocket, and no longer display
them in the baud.

Small veils are muell worn, and appear likely to continue
in favour.

--
We are very happy to MO the decided return of neck-
laces ; they are tot confined to evening wear, but accom.
racy morning toilette', though. of course in a modified
form. The long chains of beads have become excessively
vulgar ; one row close round the throat, with a medallion,
is sometimes worn. But the most elegant of these colliers
are of plain ribbon velvet, fastened with a soap, and orna-
mented with gold coins, small sprays of steel-work. Cameo
or portrait medallions are much worn ; they are suspended
from the collier or from a small chain.

The 'ease Ruses are much in fashion ; they are made
for either simple or elegant toilettes. We have seen several
drosses of moire or light satin, made with these jackets.
accompanied by the chernisettes Ruses. These, if intended
to be worn with silk or dressy materials, are made of tulle,
or very time muslin, with lace insertions ; or with frills of
lace and open-work insertions, in which are cerise coloured
velvets. Some are made of black sod white lace, others
entirely of Eoglish point, If intended for demi-toilette,
they are in foulard or cachernire, trimmed with the cache-
mire braid so much in vogue.
Lingerie for toilettes de villa is still linen or ballets, em-
broidered with simple Valenciennes, either edging or loser.
Lion, the collars still very small ; the cravats of silk in
cashmere pattern.
The shape of sleeve now worn has of course had the
effect of simplifying the under sleeve, only a small portion
of the cutf round the wrist being seen. The dams for
evening dress are very pretty sod graceful ; they are made
of white tulle. The Foroarina form is trimmed round
with white blonde, placed over coloured velvets, the same
velvets passed through the openings of the insertion.

others/. made drape lipeys'anne, with cerise velvets.
A deep lace is placed all wood, beaded by a eerie, velvet
rculesu. This iichu, after crossing on the chest, is carried
rotted the waist. aad (astound babied in a square barque.
Young girls still wear white bodies with light silk skirts ;
these should be trimmed with velvets of the IMO colour as
the silk.
_

There's nothing very new in the form or style of patti•
costa. For evening w.ar they are gored and bounced, the
one neat the dress being of muslin.
For toilettes de •ills the most elegant jupons are made of
white poplin or rep., embroidered in coloured silks, with a
very narrow white or coloured eluted flounce round the
edge. For demi-toilette they are of course more simple
both in style and materiel

On Wednesday, Lord Wodehouse' accompanied
by Captain Musters, visited the Albert Model Farm. His
Excelleacy was shown over the several domestic apartments
by Mrs. M•lroonell, the matron at the institution ; and
after viewing with much ioterest the arraogemeota for the
sccommodatioo sod instruction of the pupils, and the dairy
and poultry departments, his Excellency was then conducted
by Mr. Hoyle, the agriculturist, through the farm buildings,
where sevesul of the pupils were busy at work feeding
stock, A.c., and after remaining about an hour making
himself acquainted with several particulars relative to the
working of the institution, be left for the Viceregal Lodge
shortly after four o' clock.—lrceman's Alarmed.

An interesting ceremony took place last night at
the Crystal Palace, io connection with Edmonds's (late
Wombwell's) Windsor Castle Menagerie. A massive silver
claret jug, manufactured by Mason. of Canterbury, was
presented by Mr. M. Brown, the manager of the
menagerie, in the came of the employt'a, to Mr. and Mrs.
Ednioads, the proprietors.
The Very Rev. Dean Graves, who has for some
days past bees the guest of the Earl and Constar. of Roam,
at Birt Castle, Pareonstown, was on Wednesday afternoon
walkieg across the ball, when his foot slipped, and en-
deavouriog to Nave himself, he fell heavily on his left arm,
breaking it a little above the wrist.

ITBZ DISCHARGE NOTE IN THE BUILDING
TRADE.

A meeting of the bricklayer of Birmingham was
held in the Odd Fellows' Hall, to take into consideration
the "discharge note," as affecting their own particular
branch of the building trade. Than was a large atteodanoe.
Mr. Henry Anthony was called to the chair, and having
expressed a hope that the proceedings would be properly
conducted. he called upon Mr. James Stacey, who moved
the following resolution :—" That we, the operative brick-
'army of Birmingham, regret the steps taken by the General
Builders' Associatioe, by trying to bring into operation
the discharge note, which we wander is an innovation on
the liberties of the operatives, and we pledge ourselves
Dever to accept or acknowledge any such document when
tendered to us." (Applause.) He considered the dis-
charge note no-English and uncalled for. Even the
general public could not usasestead the realism of its
introduction, and were on their aide. He pointed out the
disadvantageous operation of a similar document io the
gen trade, and mid that it would work worse in the build-
ing trade, from the uncertainty of employment and the fre-
queoey of change. it had been said that the masters had
acted In a gentlemanly manner in giving the operatives a
month's notice of the discharge note ; hut he did not think
it was gentlemanly to give any length of notice of an angels-
tlemanly thing. (" Hear, hear," laughter, and applause.)
The discharge note was essentially a bad thing, and no
length of anise could make it good. It was se infriege-
meat of their liberties—such an infringement as had ant
bee. ;imposed to the trade for centuries. It really was no
every-sky question ; it would be tremendous if they had to
one nub to the dicharee note. Their only policy wee to
resist It to the last. He, for one, meant to do so. and he
tiZtiadrph :her hricklayen would do the same. ("Hear,
lease.)
Mr. J. LUCAS seconded the motion. He thought M
wee indeed to be regretted that they had to take up such a
position of antagonism. These quarrel' between masters
and sees generally left desolation behind them, and would
he lamented by every right-thinking man ; but in this
lasiebill. the men were left no alternative. They were sup-
ported in the struggle by the moral consciousoess that they
were not to blame. It had been said that good men had oo
reason to fear the discharge note, This might be true if
'eters were always good masters. (Hear, bear.) But be
showed that different masters had very different ides of
the same men, and therefore argued that it would be dea-
✓ness to allow them, as • body, to establish a discharge
aces of character for the mss. It would put the men under
the hopeless control of the mailers, and leave them no
redress, since any opposition on the part of a workman to
the proposal of • master in any matter would ensure
the displeasure of the master, and an unfavourable dis-
charge note.
Mr. J. J. Hums eupported the reeelutioe. He said
it might be Eased what the bricklayer were to do if
they did not accept the note. They had not struck, and
did not immediately intend to strike, and how were they to
oppose the Dote? Simply by refusing It when offered. The
answer, "We don't recognise it," would be quite sufficient
for the men. But what about their being unable to get
work without a note? That was • question for sub.
sequent consideration. They would go ou aa long as they
could in a position of passive resistance ; but if the
worst came, they would take steps for decided warfare.
Their present attitude was different from what was anti.
ciliated, and not perhaps what the carpenters and joiner.
wanted; but there was wisdom in their policy. if
they eould not step into the actual field of warfare,
they might form a reserve guard to assist those on strike.
(Hear, hear.) It must not be said that because they had
not entered the field they were therefore cowards. Dis-
cretion was sometimes the better pert of valour. It was
better in many respects if, by fighting by discretion they
overthrew the masters, instead of impoverishing the funds
of those on strike by stepping into the field. (" Hear,
hear," and applause.) He hoped the carpenters and joiners
would, after this, understand their position.
The resolution was then carried.

Mr. H. St:mums then moved : " That, while ad-
mitting the right of the Builders' Association to frame and
make laws for their protection and guidance, we most dia.
tioctly deny their right in making laws for the operatives,
without the operative, having a voice in the framing of
there laws." He stated that when the operatives had an►
alteration to make in their rules affecting the masters, they
invariably consulted the masters, and be thought the
operatives were entitled to the same courtesy. Hs made
several comments on the letter of Mr. Alfred Stintoo, and
ooncioded by moving the resolution.
Mr. J. Farr-gag seconded the( resolution, which was
supported by Mr. J. J. Horns. Tb• latter gentleman
remarked, in answer to the objection that working men's
societies were founded for benevolent objects, and sot for
trade combinations, that the funds of their societies had
never been appropriated to any purpose but the alleviation
of sickness or death. He contended, however, that the
support of men under strike against such an iniquitous im-
position would bo within the "benevolent" objects of the
society. (Hear, hear.)
The resolution was then carried.

Mr. J. J. Monte moved, •• That we respectfully solicit
the Builders' Association to reconsider the attitude they
have taken towards the operatives by adopting the discharge
note, as itbegets • spirit of bitterness and opposition where
harmony sympathy ought to exist." He hoped the
masters would not mistake this resolution for a sign of
going in. It was bat the expression of their desire that the
cause of their grievance should be removed—ii firm but
respectful representation of the fallacy of the position
taken by the masters. The mss should
the discharge note whatever the COOMNINUOINI might be.
The speaker made several remarks on the desirability of
some rules being adopted between masters and men for the
settlement of all future difßculties without strike.
Mr. A. FULDING seconded the resolution In a nest
speech, in which he showed that the operation of the dis-
charge note would prevent casual offenders from recovering
their characters and position.
The resolution was adopted, and a vote of thanks was
accorded to the Chairman, after which the meeting
separated.