The Express.
London, England, 1863-01-31 00:00:00

FASHIONS POE PSBRUAIIY.

(From Le Pollet,)

The materials for dresses, although appearing
under new names, are in reality nearly the same as thew
bahionabie last year. For visiting dress, :noire antiqu,
testae antique, thick taffetas, and velvet ; for evening
dress taffetas d'italie, in pale shades, foulard with a white
ground, Chambery gauze and tulle ; for ordinary wear,
poplin and alpaca. Merino is also worn, which is certainly
good tidings for economical ladies, for this excellent mate,
vial has been too long in disuse, though nothing can possibly
be more suitable for cold and rainy weather. However, be
it understood, though neither more nor less than a merino
of fine quality, and rich shades, its present name is cache.
mire.

The rage for the postilion make of body is begioning ht,
disappear, end bodies with bands are rather more in farms.
There is no change in sleeves ; they are still made with the
seam up the back, upon which is placed the trimmieg.
The skirts are set on the bodies in the manner we ha,,,
already described, no longer in large plait, but the frost
and sides in quite • nall flat plaits, and the back in
sively large gathers.
Plated ruches, as trimmings, have become almost a neces-
sity ; it is • useful fashion, as it do's not preclude any othr
style of trimming with it, looking perfectly well widest
any Further addition on • simple dress, or one of very rink
material. When not entirely plain, dresses for ceremonies
visit are very much trimmed, one extreme or the other.
Although when the dress is very thick and handsome, tries.
ming may be dispensed with, it is sometimes used. At ass
noted house • drew was shown of spotted moire antaine
of eo superb a quality, and so much trimmed, that it might
be said to stand alone. Narrow guipure*, narrow blonde,
and ruches of taffetas are all in vogue for such dresses.
The dresses of velvet or cloth look very well made i
Gabrielle, and trimmed with a band of fur or braiding.
Mexican blue seems the favourite colour for these. The
low bodies for evening dresses are not at all ethgeratei
There are two kinds—the one quite plain, with point and
drapery, which, instead of being plaited at the shoulder,
and front, are gathered and caught together by ornament.,
matching those ou the skirt. The other and more gene.
rally adopted, is with a round waist and body, A la grecqus,
that is to say gathered at the waist and put in straight
plaits, over a plain body under.
Short and puffed sleeves continue to be preferred. Sirs
and satin underskirts still give place to those consisting of
several light skirts, which, undoubtedly, produce a MOM
aerial effect. However, under-flounces or tunics of lace,
silk, or satin, are indispensable. Ball dresses are frequently
made with double skirt; the under one having the pried.
pal part of the trimming upon it. Enormously thick
ruches of blonde or tarlatan, edged with black or coloured
satin, are all need in this style.
Satin is more than ever in vogue for full toilette; sad
this is not • matter of surprise, seeing that it present so
beautiful an appearance in a brilliantly-lighted room ; sad
certainly there is no dress with which lace accords so well.
It exact, a good share of garniture : otherwise, it too nearly
resembles a mere underskirt. One of the prettiest stylseig
ornamenting a satin dress consists of a narrow lace floasco ;
and, above that, several bouillonnes in tulle illusion,
crossed with wreaths of flowers. The bodies ad
sleeves are trimmed to match. The colours most went
are light blue, pink, or lilac. Upon blue satin, sometime
bouquets of Trianon roses are placed, which give the toilette
• Pompadour style; and the head-dress is formed et
bouquets of flowers. and pine with heads of precious stones
Placed in the beck hair. Satin is very suitable for robes
Pomgadour. Thus we have seen a tulle dm* with the
lower part of the skirt trimmed with wreaths of pile
'lowan, with • tunic of pink satin, caught up at the side
with a bouquet of flower, ; and a eaten body, opening in
ant over•• plastron of tulle. This is both young-looking
f
White dresses are much in favour, whether of taffetas,
gauze, tarlatan, or organdi. White tarlatans is sometime
dotted over with velvet devices, small gold flowers, Up
or red metallic spot.. A white tsrlatane may be gracefully
arranged thus : with a flounce of moderate width, trimmed
at the top and bottom with two rows of black velvet (No.
8) ; up the middle of each breadth, commencing at the top
of the flounce, is a bouilloane, about three inches wide.
down the centre of which is • kind of wreath, formed of
ends of velvet put on very *Lee together ; these
bouillonnes are carried up the skirt to the waist,
but gradually diminish in width. A fichu not
reaching above the top of the drem—in fact, a low-
bodice fichu—is armed in front, and trimmed with a bowl.
loam; and frill to match the skirt ; and the sleeves oom-
posed of two bonillount's also trimmed with little ends of
velvet. With this dress • young girl might wear • coiffure
made of myosotis end email moss-roses. This style of dress
could be made in tarlatan., spotted with gold or velvet,
and the wreath of ponces's* geraniums or of button-roses
and ivy. A similar toilette, with red velvet ribbon., has a
very pretty effect, but is less suitable for a young lady than
with black velvet, _ _

The new material, pelnehe velours, is much need for
sorties de bal, as well u for evening draw. It is also being
used for bridaldruswe ; and nothing can be more elegant at
this season of the year.
Coloured velvet cenobite are much worn over low•bodiced
dresses. _ _

Opera cloaks are made of eachemire or of satin of a light
colour, with a trimming of swan's-down or plush with a
rich fringe, and cords of paseemeaterie. Thom of white
cachemire may be embroidered in coloured silk. TY em.
broidery should be put entirely round the cloak and collar,
and up the fronts. These are considered very dietinian.
dome are made with embroidered medallions of palm leaves,
and the coed and tassels of paseementeria, formed of the
different shades need in the embroidery. This style, wedded
and lined with white taffetas, is also made in poonan,
orange, or blue ; and the embroidery in different colours
upon these produces quite an Oriental effect.
One of the fancies of the season is the small shawl of
knitted or crochet wooL These little shawls are pointed at
the back, and the upper point is brought over the bead,
forming a kind of hood. They are trimmed with ribbon to
match, and moss-fringes.
There will not, probably, be much alteration in the make
of mantles or cloaks until the spring. Short palet.4,
round collets, are still the most genera style.
Bonnets have not undergoes any variation in shape wince
lest month ; the only change is in the material and style of
trimming, in which there is a SUOCON6OII of novelties.
Coiffures for evening wear are still very voluminous.
They are, however, much modified. The most becoming
ornament to woman is a Sae head of hair; but to rude
requires that ws should add to this attraction, and when it
does not disfigure the wearer we do not find fault ; but
great are should be taken in se a heed-dress that not
only the colour bat the style is ing. One of the
newest styles of wreathe I. formed with a bunch of large
flowers in front, such as poppies. rhododendrons, orchides,
striped tulips, hr. ; from each side of this tuft falls a loot
wreath of leaves and fine mast These wreaths form •
festoon on each side, and are fastened together under itbe
comb on long gold pins, the heads of which are enriched
with precious stoma.

A painful case of suicide occurred in the city of
Corfu a fortnight ago. A young sad accomplished lady—
it is said the wife of an English banker in Turkey. and who
bad been residing there some time--shot herself dead with
a pistol in an hotel on the Esplanade.
THE DISASTER AT THE PRINCENI:S. —Much
sympathy has been evoked by the sad accident at the Prin.
cam's Theatre. The survivor will be, at the beat, maimed
and scarred for life, and it is doubtful whether or not she
will ever be able to resume her avocation. Mies Hunt con•
Unties to improve. The burns on the upper part of her
body and on the arms, especially the latter, are of the most
terrible description. The object of the surgeons, now that
their patient has passed the crisis of actual danger, will be
to prevent the muscular contraction of the limbs, which
will, as soon as possible, be placed in splint& A sub-
ecriptioe list for the benefit of Miss Hunt and the
mother of the deceased Miss Smith has been opened at the
theatre, and about 15!. has already been collected within
the house. Any large or small sums seat to Mr. Robert
Rozby, the stage manager, will be acknowledged and lust,'
ciously applied.
ANOTHER TOUNO LADY BURNT TO DEATH.
late on Thursday Mr. Payne, coroner, held an inquest at
Clapham respecting the melancholy death of Miss Susan
Louisa Elizabeth Hill, aged 21, daughter of Mr. Attlua
Stephen Hill, of Southfield, Clapham New Park, an e.tea-
sive wholesale chemist and druggist in Little Britain, City,
who died from the shocking effect, of severe burns which
she received ate Pinner party at her father. residence. The
deceased was the youngest daughter of Mr. Hill. and wee
an amiable, accomplehecl, and beautiful girl. (In the creo-
le( of the 20th rather a large circle of friends sat down to
dinner, and towards the elate the footman brought in a
flaming Christmas plum-pudding, the flames having
been produced by the ignition of brandy which
had been poured over it. It would seem that the pud-
ding was in course of being placed on the table when
some of the lighted spirit fell upon the muslin dress
of the deceased, and in a moment she was in flames from
head to foot. As may readily be supposed, the company
was horror-struck, and several rushed to her aid, but it was
with difficulty that she could be got bold of so as to es-
tiagnish the fire. The table napkins saturated is water
were at once applied to stifle the burning fragments, and it
was ealy by encircling the poor girl in the window curtain
that the fire was extinguished. A young lady who met to
her helpwas much burnt, and the father and brother of
Miss Hill were also seriously injured. The deceased re
oeived immediate medical relief ; but it was found, however,
that she was most shockingly burnt about the face, neck.
and upper part of her body, and after a week's redeem(
she expired on Tuesday. The lady who ran so the assistance
of Mils Hill had a narrow escape of roes** with • sion.
lass fate Her dress caught fire, but providentially it was
extinguished before she was severely burst. The jury re
turned a verdict is accordance with the medical testimony