The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1874-07-04 00:00:00

sible to describe an iceberg with pen and paper; but if
your readers Will imagine a lump of ice twenty times
bigger than St. Paul's, swininjing about in the open
sea, they may form some idea 4,f those wonderful works
of nature. . . . Newfoundland is the most uninviting
and inhospitable-looking mast that could well be
imagined. It looks barren and rugged, without vegeta-
tion or life. either anin cil or human. There is a lighthouse
on Cape Race to prevent ships approaching too near
the land. We passed hundreds of large two-muted
fishing vessels, manned by French seamen from
the French colony of St. Pierre, in the entrance to
the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The French Government
allows a bonus of (is. on every quintal of fish caught—
a quintal being something file an English hundred-
weight. There were great numbers of whales rolling
about, and occasionally blowing up a column of water.
They appeared to be on first-rate terms with the fisher.
men, as they did not disturb one another in any way.
As we passed through St. Mary's Bay our ship stood in
for Port Basque, as our captain wanted to send a tele-
gram to Quebec, which was done by tiring a gun and run-
ning up a signal, which was replied to by the telegraph
office on shore. We keep still sailing does the coast to
Cape Race—a very bold headland—where we bid fare-
well to Newfoundland • then across the gulf to Cape
Rosier, on the mainland of Canada. We pass numerous
rocks with thousands of sea-birds, and continue along
the coast fora couple of hundred miles. We gradually
begin to see signs of settlements—little wooden houses
built in the clefts of the rocks and in the ravines
between the bills, inhabited by French fishermen,
who appear to be a very hardy race and of fine
physique. We are now fairly in the River St. Law.
rence. Father Point is reached, where we took a pilot
on board in the middle of the night, firing a gun and
sending up a shower of rockets inlet him know that he
was wanted. This was quite an exciting event, and
Captain Smith gave special permission to all who
wished to remain on deck to see it. The pilot takes
charge along with the chief officer. Next morning we
wake up to see the Island of Orleans on our right. The
deck is crowded with those who are going to level the
forest and plough the prairies. The scene is magnifi-
cent on imth banks of the noble river. Thousands of
comfortable houses, all made of wood and very neat
looking, are to be seen, the homes of perhaps the most
happy, contented, loyal, and prosperous peokile in the
world--the French Canadians, with a sprinkling ..f
Irish and Scotch settlers among them.
The scenery along the banks of the River St. Law
rence is majestic. Our passengers express themselves
delighted, and hope takes the place of the despondency
that was created by the dismal appearance of New-
foundland. Quebec comes in sight, one of the finest
panoramas in the world- the city built on a kind of a
shelving peninsula, one street rising above another,
Isomething like Queenstown in Ireland, but on a larger
I scale. The tin route of the churches and public build-
ings shine like silver. Cheer upon cheer is given by
the crews of the ships in the river as we majestically
glide up against the current, which nine very strong.
There is great excitement on deck—one looking for
luggage, another with a pen and ink—or even pencil--
writing, perhaps with a saucepan as a desk, anxious to
send a few lines home to mother or to wife, as the case
may be. Sailors are hustling about, pulling this and
hauling that. The captain gives his orders from the
bridge in a deep hoarse voice, which only those that
are accustomed to it could understand. We pass
up under the frowning batteries of the citadel of
Quebec. A crowd of people is standing on a landing-
place on our left, awaiting our arrival. This is Point
Levi, and our voyage is at end. Our vessel gradually
gets alongside, and hawsers are thrown ashore. Captain
Smith is everywhere, shaking hands with his pas-
sengers, rich and poor. The mails are put on shore.
WI this is the terminus of the Grand Trunk Railway,
and the train is waiting to receive them. The
doctor examines the bill of health, everything is right,
Tend a gigantic Irishman jumps whore and shakes
the hand of some friend with terrible force. The captain
gives orders not to permit any more doing so till a
proper gangway is made. Officers are placed on the
end of the passage to prevent overcrowding, and a
thousand people are landed in a very short time
without the least confusion. What hopes and what
ambition are in the breast of those emigrants as they
step for the first time on Canadian soil? In my
next I will give an account of their reception by the
authorities, the mode of transit to the interior, and
also my impressions of Quebec and its neigbonrhood,
as I intend to remain there for a few days, to make
myself acquainted with everything that concerns the
labouring population.

-
There are one or two incidents that I forgot to men-
tion in their proper place—namely, a concert that was
given in the saloon of the Scandinavian for the benefit
of an aged seaman, and presided over by Colonel
McNeil, the gallant commander of the Black Watch in
the Ashantee War. A vote of thanks to the illustrious
chairman was proposed by your humble servant and
seconded by Mr. Matthews, of Montreal, and carried
with a "Three times three and one cheer more." The
Colonel replied in a neat speech, in which be paid a great
compliment to the Allan line for the splendour of their
ships, and particularly the Sarmatian, that brought
home the Black Watoh from the Gold Coast. The
other incident was far lees pleasing, being an accident
that occurred to a poor young woman from Portobello,
1 near Edinburgh. She slipped down a step-ladder, and
injured her spine. Paralysis at once set in, although
she was immediately attended to by Messrs. Williams
and Hancock, the ship's doctors. A collection was
made for her in the cabin, and it was subscribed.
Captain Smith took charge of her, to have her placed
in good hands in Montreal. Consequently she wee
not seat on shore at Point Levi, as the ship was going
use to Montreal, which is a hundred and thirty miles
farther up the river than Quebec. As far as I have
yet: formed any opinion, with respect to the treat-
ment of emigrants at the various agencies that I have
been to—namely, Dublin, Derry, and Quebec—
it is everything that could be desired, as well as
on board of the Scandinavian. As far as I have seen,
everything is done to make the people comfortable.
Some suffer a good deal from sea-sickness, but it is
eurpriaing how ltttle they feel the ill effects after
landing. In the steerage of the ships are pasted up,
in those or four languages, the Acts passed by the
Initish Parliament, the Dominion Parliament, and the
United States Congress, regulating the passenger
trade, so that in any case the emigrant is protected by
law. But the ship and line rules are by far the best,
as they give him satisfaction and prevent any further
bother or litigation.