The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1887-01-01 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

Faom "Fashions for January,' in the Ladys World,
we extract the following: Ribbons and feathers are ,
the favourite trimming for hate, attention being paid
to harmony and contrast; satin or velvet are in
favour. Both are introduced into the same ribbons
now, and they are to be seen in every reigning colour;
heliotrope in all shades, lilac, the new pervenehe
(periwinkle), dark brown, ruby-brown, and golden-
brown are especially in favour. The two last-named
contrast effectively with dark green plush and with a
fine make of felt. In black ribbons we have hand-
some mixtures of satin and velvet, velvet and reps,
reps and moire; they are thick and handsome, and
made in every width that can be required. Massive
fancy pins, also buckles, are much worn now by
our elegantes. The rage for ribbon trimming is
becoming so universal, that not only in plain
but in gala dresses we see entire fronts covered
with fancifully arranged bows and loops, sashes and
scarfs of ribbon, loops and bows from the neck to the
edge of the dress; sleeves made of ribbon only, and
bodices, some opening, some half-opening, over com-
plicated arrangements of ribbon. The taste for rib-
bon extends to toilettes of children of any age, and
little ones in their helpless stage of life are smothered
in laces and ribbons. Not less effective for ladies
than for children is the modern guipure lace. It is
made in every width—the widest will cover an entire
skirt, and can be tastefully arranged. It is service-
able when a silk is perhaps a, little faded or has lost
its trestme.., then-the drapery an Rrra-e"
to produce the effect or e.cirely new costume.

ONn of the conveniences of living in a less variable
climate than ours, is the feeling that when the impor-
tant selection of a winter garment has been made it
may do daily for four or five months. Such a possi-
bility is excluded from cur island, where temperature
will vary ten or twenty degrees in the course of
twenty-four hours. The clothing of a Laplander
might be acceptable at the beginning of a week,
and a plush mantelette prove oppressive at the
end of it. To provide suitable garments for all
these chances and changes, exercises the in-
genuity both of mercer and purchaser. Some
years ago women paid large sums for sealskin
paletots, and then imagined that if the ther-
mometer stood ten degrees below or fifty degrees
above zero they were equally bound to put them on.
It has taken us some time to discover that, excepting
in an open carriage or in travelling, these garments
convey more discomfort than the reverse we do,
hJwever, at last acknowledge that it is so. The con-
sequence of the discovery led in the first instance to
the disfavour of sealskin. We have now advanced
another step to find that it is its abuse and not its use
that is at fault. The same fur reduced in quantity
does not prove so oppressive as regards weight, and yet
it gives quite as much warmth as is needed by those in
exercise, let the weather be ever so cold. This modera-
tion enables the sealskin garment of this winter to
be so devised as not to hide but to clothe the figure,
while the sack-like effect they were formerly wont to
impart is an ugliness of the past. Those shaped like
a coat have long pointed fronts and sufficient fulness
supplied to the short jacket backs to give a postilion
effect. The sleeves also looked much better now that
-they are finished with a turned-back cuff of the same
fur, or cut in vandykes when the edge of the jacket is
terminated in that manner. The seal-skin visites,
with sling sleeves are other smart little creations of
this season, and have also close-fitting backs and long
pointed fronts. These mantelettes require no trim-
ming, and, with the jackets, are much in evidence
just now in the parks. The fair wearers rightly judge
that no dress harmonises better with them than
those of navy blue, which they are generally adopting;
or that, if the costume be sombre in colour, a glimpse
of mandarin, conveyed by means of a handkerchief or
a bird's wing, greatly increases the beauty of sealskin.
On some of the sealskin toques and bats ara to be
seen tiny cubs of bears, or baby squirrels, which seem
to be playing hide and seek among wings and bows.
Fringes of fur and long boas are in such request that
if each possessor of a bushy tail could quadruple
that hirsute appendage, fashion would find service for
tilem all.

A splendid toilette designed for Mme. Patti is in
azure-blue soie de Lyons, very thick and soft. The
under-skirt is completely enveloped in clouds of point
d'Argentan, draped crosswise; at the side fall two
panels, all embroidered in silver barley. The train—
square, long, and very narrow—is formed of two bands,
one in azure silk, the other in sapphire velvet; a fold
of point d'Argentan separates the two. The bodice is of
a very transparent azure material; the chemisette is in
point d'Argeritan, the short sleeves being caught up
on the shoulders by bands of velvet. The bsck is of
silk, and on one side falls drapery gathered in a knot
ala Sappho at the bosom. With this toilette a head-
dress of a sheaf of silver barley is worn with an aig-
rette of diamonds, arranged on the top of the head.
On the neck, a necklet a la Princesse de Galles, with
silver barley ion diamonds sewn on sapphire velvet.

I WILL describe some of the toilettes worn by Mme.
Nilsson. They exactly suited her artistic figure. To
begin with a single dress of crepe de Chine and finely
embroidered silk gaaze. The skirt is puffed and
drawn up a la lelle 44g2zese, being fastened at
the hip with a buckle of a strange and foreign
device; the crepe is the foundation of the under-
skirt, the drapery of which is embroidered
muslin; the train is most stylish, and made of
two different materials. The bodice is low, in I
gathered crepe, opening in front, and filled up
with a pointed trimming of embroidered ruch-
ings. The tout ensemble is graceful and youthful-
looking, suitable either for a concert or dinner-dress.
The next is a magnificent pink dress; the petticoat is
in pleated tulle, and at the bottom are spaces in which
are placed large bows of• pink ribbon; three scarfs
embroidered in gold, jewels, and choice pearls are
arranged crosswise over the skirt, and on the side is a
bunch of roses. The low bodice, and that designed
for dinner wear, are both in satin; the latter opens
in front with embroidered bretelles. A fichu in puffed
pink tulle forms a gorgerette round the tiiroat ; the
tulle sleeves are mixed with embroidery. Then comes
a recherchte toilette a la Louis XVI. in rose de
the faille of two shades. The petticoat is composed
of draperies relieved with a panel arranged en tablier.
The latter is of the most vivid rose-colour, embroidered
all over with flowers in pearls, jewels, and gold.
Wings of velvet on the hip form a bssque holding
the fall of heliotrope velvet, which in the train mixes
with a pale rose faille. At the left side is an immense
tuft of wild briars, which give a spring-like tone to
the whole of this beautiful creation. The low bodice
is of an exquisite heliotrope velvet, with a plastron
embroidered to match the tablier ; at the sleeves
are fringes sf pearls; the inevitable &ha with its
ruching of pale pink tulle completes the costume.