The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1886-01-09 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

Tuts Queen says: The social atmosphere is full of
gay gatherings, more especially in the colintry.
There is the Sanclringimin party, Lady Cowper's at
Wrest-park, Lady Henry Somerset's- at Eastnor, the
Hatfield ball, and many others about to take place.
They are all of them occasions when the very best
dressing is necessary, and a number uf beautiful
gowns have seen the light. Imagine a tea gown of the
richest brocade, a cream ground on which are sparsely
scattered full-blown pink roses, intermixed with
forget-me-riots, shading from light to dark. The
groundwork showed itself well; and the sprays were
so faithfully carried out they deserved a place in an
album. A silk of this kind is worthy to be handed
down to posterity. The back of the skirt was
allowed to flow naturally as it would; the front was
carried out in rich blue corded silk, veiled with cream
piece lace of the point de gaze design; revers of a
lighter blue at the side. Nothing could well be more
perfect in its way. The ball gowns are of allvarieties, a
soft cream silk veiled in crepe—just the sort of
dress that no description will bring to the mind's eye
in all its freshness and softness—and a thick yellow
satin covered with real Spanish lace, the front a per-
fectly new material, composed of alternate stripes of
yellow satin and transparent black and gold, which
caught the light at every movement, well suited to a
young married woman. A metallic mixture of soune
kind or other is much the fashion. One happy crea-
tion is a " Looking-glass " satin (its name exactly
conveys the effect of the soft, glistening, grey tinge,
blended with grey tulle, worked all over with pendent
steel tassels and steel spangles. Another magnificent
harmony of colour was a rich silk with satin stripes of
a glorious red—not scarlet, not crimson, but with a
pink tinge which glowed through the red, and was
enhanced by the daring but most successful contrast
of light sapphire-blue velvet with which it was made
up.

Do you know what the new "Anenome " shade is?
No word painting will bring it to the mind's eye. It
is neither red nor pink, nor mauve, but combines a
tone of all, and is most becoming to fair skins.
Another gown was made of satin and velvet of this
hue. A dinner gown was a combination of white
and black brocade and black velvet; not black and
white, which is common enough, but dead white with
touches of black in the outlines, the pineapple a prin-
cipal feature in the design. The train was bordered
with heavy rouleau; folds cf black velvet. A theatre
dress was most original; the petti2oat was scarlet
velvet., almost hidden by a thick gold and white
brocade, which would stand by itself, the pattern a
conventional arabesque. The skirt was made short
and bordered with otter, the brocade looped with a
rare skill, which just told that the velvet was there.
The bodica was draped with a pelerine fichu of muslin,
such as our grandmothers would have worn.

AMONG other notable gowns two specially merit,
description. One is a brocade of the tone known as
back pearl, shot with gold, and trimmed with tulle
of the same shade, cuught down with gold ornaments,
the other is a brown velvet short dress, into which
had been introduced as panels, down the centre of the
back and at one side, a brocade of an entirely new
class of weaving, on a brown satin ground. The design
was hydrangeas in pink, cornflowers in blue, and
chrysanthemums in the anemone tint, the shadings
as finely wrought as a delicate painting, thrown on a
silk foundation, like uncut frise. The bodice had a
vest of the finest plaited pink crepe, over which were
two lappels of the brocade ; the sleeves came to the
elbow, and beneath the velvet revers that bordered
them was an under gathered sleeve of the pink crepe,
which covered the outside of the elbow, but in the
front ended in a bow nt the bend of the arm.

To make a perfectly new character for fancy dress
on old lines is by no means an easy matter, but this
has been accomplished for a west countty gathering.
It was intended to personify a witch, and the costume
was carried out entirely in white—white velvet and
white brocade. We do not bear of a white Witch
often ; the weird sisters are mostly brought before
the general imagination as black, but the new render-
ing is particularly charming. The tall pointed hat ii
white velvet is very becoming to a young face. The
petticoat was white quilted satin, the tunic white
brocade. The only colour about it was the glitter.
jug tinselled toads, snakes, &c., laid round the
skirt.

AMONG stylish gowns for the Christmas festivities
was a ball gown of cream brocade, the pattern a
masterpiece of design, with water lilies springing up
naturally from the water. The front of the dress was
entirely composed of pearl embroidery, beautifully '
wrought; the bodice was square cut, made to match
the front with elaborate pearl trimmings. Beading
has rarely till now arrived at such perfection. The
work is so securely carried out you may almost cut it
anywhere; at all events, the beads do,not come off as
they used to do with inferior work, and were con-
sequently a constant source of annoyance. Moreover,
the combination of beads of different sizes is
thoroughly understood, and by means of under
padding some of the larger flowers are made to stand
out in bold relief, adding greatly to the artistic treat-
ment. Black, white and cream are more woru than
any colours. A white Merve illeux was completely
covered with old English lace caught up with long
looped bows of velvet—the contrast a most happy one
of the velvet on the satin. A black tulle was draped
with beaded tulle, and caught up with large jet
flowers and plumes of ostrich feathers. The bodice
was made of striped plush. The description of one
coloured ball gown will suffice. The low bodice in
this was of turquoise velvet; the skirt blue tulle,
draped with the same velvet; the two materials by
contrast showed each other off.

THE morning gowns are remarkable for that quiet
good style, which, after all, should be the aim of ail
good dressing. It was Ruskin who said that "a labk
of style denoted a lack of some right feeling."
Dickens, be it remembered, asserted that "style
meant back;" and a close observer will realise his
meaning, viz., that certain finish of carriage, enhanced
greatly by a well-fitting gown, which throws back the
shoulders and straightens the back. A dark navy-
blue basket cloth fell in soft folds at the back of the
skirt, while at the side was a graduated panel of
ruby velvet, with a boxplait on either side; the
touch of colour was carried out on the bodied by
crosscut cuffs, collar, and binding to the basque,
which ended just below the waist. Many women
would like to possess a long blue cloth
coat, with beaver collars and cuffs, handsomely
braided down the front. A garment of this descrip-
tion is durable, and looks well to the end. For wear-
ing with this a gown of terra-cotta and blue plush
panels is made, intermixed with beaver. Beaver and
beaver colour are the acme of fashion; a plush
mantle of that tone, handsomely trimmed with skunk,
was a great success in colouring. A brown, striped
Astrakan cloth, both jacket and. dress, was trimmed,
with golden beaver; and a wide striped dark green
diagonal cloth and velvet had a bonnet to match,
having a pink aigrette; the actual skirt was made
with these stripes downwards, but in the draperythey
were arranged diagonally, for the disposition of stripes
is a study in itself.

There are at present some very pretty muffs in tho
west-end show-rooms. They all widen at the base and
become narrower at the top. They are things that
can be easily made at home, and plush will be found
to be the most generally useful material. They dis-
play a small satin bow at the top, and have a useful
pocket which is concealed when worn, being carried
next the wearer. Otter is a favourite trimming ap-
plied in bands. A charming evening gown had been
made of cream Merveilleux trimmed with lace. The
material was draped in soft folds, so that a point fell
on one side the edge, being bordered with pearls set
closely together. On the other side there was a panel
of the material covered with tassels of pearls contrast-
ing with the narrow lace.flounces to the waist. The
back was quite in a new style; a scarf of the materiai
fell to the hem, ending in a large tassel; the other
end having been caught up at the waist, formed
the back drapery. The low bodice was pointed,
and had a little lace draped round the neck, and
carried almost to the point in front, large pearl
ornaments securing the lace. A green eau de Nil
soft-corded silk had panels of brocaded velvet and a
train of the same, with close-set loops of satin all
'round; the low bodice was draped with velvet, and
displayed a feather aigrette. A white satin was made
up with gold brocade, and trimmed with marabout
feathers tipped with gold, long ribbon bows on one
side, and bouquets of feathers. I black dress for
rather deep mourning is exactly the sort of gown
often required and difficult to choose. One e-iample
is made as a train, trimnied with a pinked-out niche;
flounces, also pinked, were carried up to the waist
on one side, a heavy ruche of lace bordering the tunic
on the other, the front being heavily draped with
brocaded crepe de Chine, which gives an appearance
of deep mourning. It was arranged at the back on
quite a new principle, standing out a great deal, and
in the form of a large butterfly; the bodice was heart-
shaped, and draped with the crêpe de Chine and lace,
caught down with large motifs of jet.

Keeping one's mouth shut is a virtue that does not
hold good at meal time.
Diner: "What in thunder do you call this vile
compound, waiter?' Waiter: "An 'entry,' sir.'
Diner (rising with disgust) : " Tlmph where's the
exit
It is stated with all gravity that the spinning wheel
cures insanity. The effort to keep both hands and
feet going gives a healthy stimulus to the diseased
faculties; the nervous excitement of the patient is
allayed by the buzz and clack of the wheel, and "she
is calmed by a noise which used to drive our grand-
mothers mad."
It is well known that the great lexicographer
maintained a - veritable ." struggle for existence"
during the earlier years of his residence in London;
but it is amusing—though the description has a touch
of pathos—to be told how, on a certain occasion
Johnson and Savage "walked round Grosvenor .
square till four in the morning, in the course of their
conversation reforming the world, dethroning princes,
establishing new forms of government, and .giving
laws to the several-States- othEttrtper tab—fatigued at
length with their legislative office, they began to feel
the want of refreshment, but could not muster up
snore than fourpence halfpenny between them." '