The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1874-10-31 00:00:00

THE "MEMORIAL CHURCH" AT
CAWNPORE.

The following extracts are from a very interesting allele
hi the Pally Neu., entitled "The essimpore of To-day"
. . The railway station of Cawnpore is distant more
than a mile from the eantomnent. Close to the road
and not far from the station the explorer easily finds
the massive pile of the " Savacia House," now allotted
as residences for railway officials. English children
play now in the corridors once thronged by the
minions of the Nana, for here were his headquarters
during most of the siege. . . .
The drive from the railway station to the European
cautonments is pleasant and shaded. At a bend in
the road there comes into view a broad, flat, treeless
parade-ground. This plain lies within a circle of
foliage, above which, on the south-eastern side, rise
the balconies and flat tops of a long range of barracks
built in detached blocks, while around the rest of the
circle the trees shade the bungalows of the cantonment.
Near the centre of this level. space there is an ir-
regular enclosure defined by a shallow sunk wall
and low quickset hedge, and in the middle
of this enclosure rises the ornate and not
wholly satisfactory structure known ItS the
" Memorial Church." It is built on the site
of the O'd dragoon hoepital, which was the very
focus of the agony of the siege. It is impossible to
analyse the mingled emotions of amazement, pride,
pity, wrath, and sorrow which till the visitor to this
shrine of British valour, endurance and constancy.
'the heart swells and the eyes fill as one, standing here
with all the theatre of the heroism lying under one's
eyes, recalls the episodes of the glorious piteous story.
The blood stirs when one remembers the buoyant
valour of the gallant Moore, who 'wherever he passed
left men something more courageous and women
!something less unhappy," of the reckless audacity
of Ashe, the cool daring of Delafosse, the deadly
rifle of Stirling, the heroic devotion of Jervis.
And a great lump grows in the throat when
one bethinks bitrr of the beautiful constancy
and fearful !sufferings of the women; of Britieh
ladies going barefoot and giving up their stock-
ings as cases for grapeshot ; of Mrs. Moore's jennies e
ber(pan to No. 2 Barracks; of the hapless gentlewomen
"unshod, unkempt. raeged, and squalid, haggard and
emaciated, parched with drought, and faint with hun-
ger, sitting waiting to hear that they were widows."
And what a place it was which the garrison had to
defend ! Not a foot of all the space bend! proof, the A VISIT TO CNE WHO WAS ONCE A
apology for an entrenchment, ouch as 'an active cow
o.pliondlNenGt sends over from India the.
might jump Over." The imagination has to do much The Times' Own Corr
work here, for most of the landmarks are gone. following most Interesting description of the We ot an cc-
The outline of the world-famous earthwork is kinz :
almost wholly obliterated ; only in places is it to be From the nature and interest of your article on the
dimly recognised by brickeliscoloured lines, and a Guicowar of Baroda it occurred to me that your readers
low raised line on the mouth martian. The enclosure might be interested in knowing something of the life
now existing hats no reference to the outlines of of an ex-King, an exile of long-standing, and that I
the entrenchment. That enclosure, when entered, is might profitably give an account of how he passes his
found to be littered with the appliances of building, time under the pomp and circumstance.; of a mimic
piles of bricks, puddles of mortar, and baulks of tim- Court. With this view I sought out the Political
ber ; for the "Memorial Church" has lapsed into the Resident of the ex-King of Oude, whose kingdom now
hands of the proverbial slow coach of India, the Public lies on the banks of the Hooghly. at Garden Beech,
Works Department, and although seventeen years about three miles from Calcutta, down the river. The
have elapsed since the tragedy and the heroism it is permission ts visit the grounds was at once accorded,
meant to commemorate, it is still unfinished. But and I was accompanied by the Political Resident,
littered as it is, there is much of deep interest Lieutenant-Colonel. Mowbray Thomson, whose heroic
inside this enclosure. We come first on a railed-in conduct and hairbreadth escapes at Cawnpore many
memorial tomb, bearing an inscription in raised an Anglo-English child knows by heart, and whose
letters on a cross let into the tesselated pavement. story will be told while English history endures.
'in three graves within this enclosure lie Your readers will remember that Lieutenant Thomeon
the remains of Major Edward Vibart, 2nd Bengal was one of two officers who escaped from the fatal trap
Cavalry, and about seventy officers and soldiers, into which General Wheeler's infatuation led him and
who, after escaping from the massacre at Cawn- his gallant band. Lieutenant-Colonel Thomson is now
pore on 27th June, 1857, were captured by stout and vigorous, and is engaged in administering
the rebels at Sheorapore, and murdered on the tot political duties and magisterial justice within the four
Jul'. The inmates of these graves were originally walls of the ex-King of Oude's mimic kingdom, in
buried elsewhere, and were removed hither when the which, however, save where the law of India is in ivies-
enclosure was formed. In another part ot the cud.,- tion, there can be no interference on the part of the
sure is a raised tomb, the slab of which bean the in- Indian Government. Within those walls the King is
scription : "This stone marks a spot which lax within supreme. His kingdom, though small, is compact,
Wheeler's entrenchment, and covers the remains and His subjects are, in all, about 6,000, and devoted to
is sacred to the memory of those whe were the first him. Hie Court is in perfect form. His officers of
to meet their death when beleaguered by mutineers State, several of the chief of whom accompanied us over
and rebels in June, 1857." Two only lie in this grave, the grounds, have their titles and gradations as they
Mr. Murphy and a lady who died of fever. These or those who went before them had in Oude. The King
two perished on the first day of the siege, and had has three principal houses in his little kingdom, and
the exclusive privilege of being decently interred hasnamed them respectively" Sultan Khanah," "Azud
within the precincts of the intrenchment After klunzil." and " Zeal Kootee." Bound the second of
the first day of the siege there was *scant leisure for these is the Royal Menagerie unquestionably one of
funeral rites. To find the last resting place of the finest in the world. It milting about 20,000 birds,
the remaining dead of this siege we must quit besets, and snakes, ranged in the pretty order of
the enclosure and walk across the maiden to a zigzag disorder on the four Bidee of a magnificent tank
spot among the trees by the roadside under the about 300 ft: long by. 2101 t. wide, almost alive with
shadow of No. 4 Barrack. There was an empty every conceivable variety of fresh water firth that can
well here when the siege began; three weeks after, live in a hot climate, and covered with broods or
when the siege ended, this w,ll contained the bodies of specimens of every known water bird which "love or
250 British people. With daylight the battle raged money " has been potent enough to secure, though I
around that sepulchre, but when the night came the fear "love" in this case must give the palm to
slain of the dry were borne thither with stealthy step "money," if the relative successes are compared,
and scant attendance. Now the well is filled up, The pigeons seem to be the ICing's favourites.
and above it, inside a small, ornamental enclo. They number 18,000, arranged in thousands here
sure, formed by iron railings, there rises a and there in different parts of the enclosure, and
monument which bears the following inscription: are of every variety and colour—l should say, the
"In a well under this enclosure were laid by the finest existing collection of pigeons. Along the
hands of their fellows in suffering the bodies of banks of the lake roam at will the ostrich and the
men, women, and children, who died hard by pelican, mingling with swans, geese, and a hod
during the heroic defence of Wheeler's entrench- of birds known tb ordinary individuals, with a host
moot when beleagured by the rebel Nana." more known only to the naturalist or bird-fancier.
Below the inscription is this apPosite quotation Around, or amid, all these (for the freedom of all
from realm cxli, : "Our bones are scattered at but the wild animals is unbounded) are goats
the grave's mouth, as when one cutteth and cleaveth and sheep, representing, many climates and species,
wood upon the earth. 13ut mine eyes are unto Thee, camels, dromedaries, ibis, and I know not what.
O God the Lord," At the corners of the flower plot The snakes have for their home a "mountain." in
are small crosses bearing individual names. One corn- shape like the dome of St. Paul's only not more
It is a great trial to many housekeepers to be obliged Inamorata; Sir George Parker, the cantonment magis- than about 30ft. high, and with perhaps an equal
to keep a servant (remarks a lady writer). If it were trate ; a second, Captain Jenkins; a third, Lieu- diameter at the base. This dome is covered with
possible they would much rather do their own work. tenant Saunders am! the men of the 81th Regiment; holes of different sizes, the homes for snakes of all
It is so delightful to feel perfectly free snd at home in a fourth, Leiutenant Glanville and the men of the ages and dimensions. Here the reptiles rule sm
your own house, with no one's wishes to consult but Madras Fusiliers and here, too, lies stout-hearted yet preme ; they are fed, housed, and allowed their
your husband's and the children's; for be we never so tender-hearted John DlacKillop of the Civil Service, own will and pleasure as freely as the King has his
independent, there is always some restraintlefore err- else hero of another well—that from which the team of —within treaty obligations. If they break the coin-
vents. I fancy servants are seldom parted iron, with buffaloes are now drawing water to make the mortar pact by crossing the moat which divides their retreat
much regret. The memory of some great fault on their for the Memorial Church. Thence was procured the from the grounds generally, why, they are taught
partlong and patiently endurea on new part makes water for the garrison, and it was a target also for the obedience. If net they curl themselves up and down,
their going out from us very much easier to be borne rebel artillery, so that the appearance of a man with go to bed when they please and rise when they please.
than it might have been and rice reeti. I have no a pitcher by day, and by night tire creaking of the Their food is brought to their very doors —frost* and
doubt they on their part feel the same. The fact is, it ' tmkle, was the signal for a shower of grape. But other excellent dishes; and upon the whole the
is very difficult to brine entirely different elapses of I .1. Sin wit being a fighting nian, 'ionic snakes have a somewhat enviable life for snake**.
peimle together, and have them aesimilate etionah to himself useful, as lie modestly put it, for a week as Elsewhere in the grounila we find many of the
produce perfect harmony between themselves. I have Captain of the Well, till a grapesnot sent him to that I beautiful grass snakes, and others of a like kind, in
no hesitation in eaj ing that I believe the necessity of other well thence never to Lytton. w, c.tse ikti.enittiti, but difficult to distimetish from
the presence of a strange person in the house, is the
keeping a servant, and in this way having to endure snakes that are poisonous. Finally, we had a fine
whets
lit ever is finished, l
wiortini
it! aa cr.),
aonsai,,mainikcle
colleePon of cobras brought out ; and then all the
skeleton of the home to many a woman who might structuri, as regarda its interior. Perhaps it is in place, native attendants (I sin sure we mnst have had ief)
be otherwise very happy. l but the noblest monument that could commemorate crowded round to see the work of a short, thick-
A great deal ot trouble arises from a misunder- Cawnpore would hove the maintenance, for the wonder sA, muscular, and rather grim-looki nis man,
standing between the mistress and the servant in 'of the world until all time, i.f the entrenchment and who has the snakes in charge. The little
regard to the specific duties required of the latter. Few what it auromvied, as nearly AS :,oseible in the con- Mil (described also as a wrestler) was "under a
servants, if they understood their duties and what is dition in whiels they were left on the evacuation of cloud" in consequence of some offence, and he spoke
expected of them, but would he willing to perform the garrison. The granileat monument in the world is lierhaps more defiantly than even his wont to his
them priimptly and well. Let the mistress never forget the Residency of Lucknow, which remains and is *interiors ; but I should say he would at no time be
that she, too, must perform her obligations faithfully kept on substantially in the condition in which it was very bland. When his reseistants hesitated he pulled
and punctually if she desires a well-regulated, smooth left When Sir Colin Campbell brought out its out huge cobras whose touch is death. Them was no
household. I take it, the great mistake made in this garrison in November, 1857; and the Cawnpore en. charming or jugglery, but merely a dangerous exhibi-
matter occurs at the time of hiring the servant. The trenchment would have been a still nobler memorial, tion of tl.e Kunt's pets. One could eca.reely, as one
rui-trees is not honest or plain-op ken enough ; neither as the abiding testimony to a defence even looked on the coolness of the operation, remove from
understands the other. The lady keeps back much more wonderful, although unfortunately unsuccess- one's mind the impression that the reptiles tab been
which she will expect, and which she will reveal tut, than that of Lucknow. But the Memorial robbed of their deadly poison; but they had not. The
afterwards, and may perhaps cause dissatisfaction. Church of Cawnpore will always be interesting by King would have no such shame about him. The
There is a glamour cad over it all, and tte servant reason of its site, and of the memorial tablets on the charm is in the power to kill. All that the little man
enters into a new family feeling a perfect mystery in walls of its interior. In the left transept is a tablet affected was downright hardihood, indnced by long
regard to her duties, what is expected of her, and a "To the memory of the Engineers of the East Indian practice, and, of course, by a knowledge of the habits
stet of a what-is-coining next sensation. Such a Railway, who died and were killed in the great insur- of cobras.
servant treads softly through the house for the first ilay notion of 1857; erected in affectionate remembrance Some of your readers may remember that the ex-
or two, opens doors cautiously, and goes around with a by their brother Engineers in the North-West King about a couple of years ago had *several thi
dragginghome-sicklook, and asks questions which make Provinces." On the lefc side of the nave are several sande more snakes on their Way down country when
the mistress wonder if she has been used to a different tablets. One is to the memory of poor young John the Government stepped in and forbad the dangerous
way, and cause much confusion of mind if the mistress Nicklen Martin, killed in the boats at Suttee Chowra cargo a matter of grievous regret to His ee-
ls at all delicate and sensitive. In such a state of Ghana Another commemorates three officers, two Majesty, I have no doubt, for, next to doves the
things as this the girl is very likely to disappear for a sergeants, two corporals, a drummer, and twenty King seem; most partial to serpents, and indeed, his

interest in the two tut), be said be pretty equally
balanced. He spends niony an hour, I am
told, with those snakes which possesses the dead-
liest weapon of death against its foes. Around
the menageries are those solid, picturesque little
buildings with marble floors and stucoeed walls
so much in request in the East. They are so con-
structed that the ex-King or his friends are able to
rest almost at any point while walking among the
pets of the menagerie. At night every part of these
buildings. as indeed also of the entire greunde, is lit
up with innumerable small lamps, of different colours,
whose light (in the came .4 the beildings) is also re-
flected from the ceilings by similarly coloured balls—
ordinary balls, which I suppose might be bought in
the Lowther Arcade, but very dear from their gorgeous-
ness to the heart of an Eastern leitentate, as they are
pleasing to the imagination of his people. The only
other noticeable fact is that (as in all Eastern houses I
have seen, especially where European ls,s,ite are imi-
tated) the gilt and display cover dirty walls, and are
further setoff lv artich iit fernitureentirely mioplaced.
An English traveller would hardly be surprised to
fins! in one of the best rooms, hanging over some
splendid couch and facing the most gorgeous mirrors,
some wretched print which St. Giles s would con-
demn for tertchedness of taste. It will be re-
membered that Iwo not referring to the King's dwell-
ing-houses. 'lle ex-King, on some ground of eti-
quette, never attends at Government-house, but he is
',fished by every Viceroy on seleoted occasions, and
the regulated amount of honour is always meted out
to him with properly-adjusted Eastern scales of
etiquette. Ile has an income from Government of
£lO,OOO a month, and a small additional sum from
the rent of a native bazaar outside his territory. I
believe that inside those four walls he spends his
entire income and more. At all events he saves
nothing, and seldom seems free from a Royal
craving for money. This will not be wondered at
when I say that he has, in addition to two married
wives, 39 ikiahtthi (that is, persons who bear chil-
dren) and 100 Beg-ums —who, I presume, do not.
Fancy the amount required in London for 141
ladies, RASyal in position at least! lie has also living
a family of 31 sons and 25 daneliters, and he lost
a son some days ago. He spends his days in Li.,
menagerie, and in drawing, painting, and writing
poetry. A large representation of his " grounde "
on the Hooghly ornaments the walls of One of his
little lake side retreats. The river and ships are fairly
painted, ;vs also is a female figure. Above them, as if
..n the masts of the vessels, is part of his Majesty's
domains, with the guards (he has 50) passing in review.
Above all these there is a great thing which the lead-
ing man under his ex-Majesty, MoonsheeAuteer Khan
Bahadoor, was, good enough to tell ins represento,l the
moon, and when he hadcommunieated the information
I began to think he was right; indeed, I am sntisfied
that it is the Moon. No one need grudge an ex-
Sovereign so innocent an amusement. His gongs are
said to be excellent, according to native taste and some
which are called after his name—" Iluzrut-Ki Thoon.
gree" are sung, I am told, by dancing girls all over
Calcutta, Benares, and many other of the principal
towns of India. His ex-Majesty's evenings are spent
among musicians and dancing girls. One of his four
principal houses (all of which are furnished " in great
style ") is selected for the day, anu there he passes
the night—Calcutta meanwhile as ignorant of his
pleasures and he of its as if he were still in Omits.
Every avenue to the palaces is guarded grimly, and
woe to the person who attempts to break the guard.
All this cannot be maintained without lavish ex-
penditure; in fact, the King maintains a little t • o
providing the Mite of it with choice ainthament, and
the whole town with amusement of some sort, in
addition to providing them with the means of living.
The little camp is, in its way, Royal, as Eastern
peoples understand 'Royalty. The menagerie coots, in
feeding, £5OO a month. The grounds are beautifully
kept, and employ 300 gardeners, who, ot curse, must
be paid. The people employed are more than feudal
retainers; they belong to the ex-King body and soul;
and if an order had been given fer the snake chief,
with his grim, surly face and his well knit limbs, to
spring upon Colonel Thomson and throttle him on
the spot, the man would at leant have tried to obey.
Such la the life of one of our ex-Kings.
The late Viceroy, I believe, expressed astonishment
that one with so many. advantages an.' so few cares
could not be content, lint it is necessary to re-
member that we are asking for content from one
who was once a King. Nearly a score of yearn
have passed since the annexatiisi was made, but
the Indian Government never loses sight of the fact
that an ex-King is not likely, even by chance, to
forget the Royal State which he exchanged for this
life of ease and indolence. The fine old represen-
tative of the line of Hyder All came out of his re-
treat and mixed with English gentlemen as a Prince. •
The ex-King of Gude takes a different course, and
perhaps suffers for it, though one cannot be quite sure
of that. He has, at least, the satisfaction of knowing
that he has no equal in all his domain, and even the
fine vessels coming up or going down the river past
his palaces must seem like tributaries to the recluse
ex-King.

SIGHT IS THE ciasaTir GEM OF NATURE
ALL—TOU THAT SUFFER
FROM BAD EYES,
READ THE FOLLOWING
TESTIMONIALS.