The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1886-01-16 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

The Omen has the following article: A New Year!
With all its paths untrod, and its fashions unde-
veloped. Perhaps we can hardly apply the last word
to the fashions, for they are already defined for the
winter season and early spring. Nothing very new
will come out till the sunshine opens the buds and
soft breezes fan the early flowers into full-blown
beauty. Last week closed with the fashionable
gatherings at Burlington House and the Grosvenor,
and this one opened with sales at the West-end
shops. Everybody was busy last week with New
Year festivities, and the giving and receiving of cards
and souvenirs, but now most people are engaged in
bargain-hunting. It has been a dull winter for both
-trade and gaiety, and there is something sad in look-
ing at the costly fabrics and delicate manufactures
prepared for customers, which have had to be con-
siderably reduced in price to effect a sale. The reign
of Christmas parties, mostly "half and half" ones,
where children ar.e. alders mutuallyget in each other's
way and generally prefer each other's room to their
company, is on the wane, and the more serious busi-
ness of the county balls is coming on. Several fancy
balls are on the tapis, and for these all sorts of
original costumes are being "created." One cha-
racter is being carried out in various styles, and that
is a Primrose League Dame. The costume is becom-
ing in colour, tolerably easy to arrange, and has the
additional advantage of being wearable at other balls,
Earrings and necklets, pins for putting into the plaitr
and curls of hair, have the little woodland flower in
enamel, while fans and bod:ces are edged, and skirts
are freely trimmed, with the usual artificial ones.
Of course the badge is worn, either as a throat orna-
ment or as an order, sometimes with the addition of
a broad satin ribbon, fastened on one shoulder
and carried across to under tie other arm. The de-
scription of two pretty dresses may be of use to other
dames. A skirt composed of a number of small
flounces in front, and draped scarves at the back of
primrose-coloured tulle; below the last flounce, just
above the edge of the skirt in front, a wreath of prim-
roses resting on their green leaves; each scarf com-
mencing from the back of the skirt was caught up,
one above the other, with bunches of flowers and
leaves, up the left side, the upper one being placed On
the hip. A. tunic of tulle, covered with a network oc
single flowers, with a glass bead strung on to every
stalk, like a dewdrop, was draped across the front.
and caught up high on the right side. Bodice of
primrose velvet, edged with close-set flowers round
the shoulders, and sleeves of the same floral network,
falling over the arm; long primrose-coloured kid gloves,
and hose and shoes en suite. Stomachers of primroses
for the fronts of bodices, and tufts for the hair with
feather osprey, standing up high, are also provided.
The other dress had the skirt of pale primrose crepe
lisse, with a panel of primrose satin on the left side
cut up and faced with plush of the shade of the green
leaves. On the right side, long ends of primrose satin
and green plash ribbon were looped among the folis
of the crepe lisse, and caught up with a few drooping
nritnroses and green leaves. The bodice of green
plush had a folded fichu of the lisse fastened on one
shoulder and in front, with the flowers and leaves in
a becoming manner, and the band crossing the arm
had a fall of single primroses. A small net, formed
by the stalks and flowers, was arranged for covering
the top of the wearer's head, with a jaunty feather
osprey placed rather forward on one side, and secured
by a diamond swallow.

A FANCY ball dress, carried out in shades of white,
pale and rather dark grey tulle, entitled a Carrier
Pigeon, has recently been despatched for an approach-
ing costume dance. The bodice was composed of the
plumage of a grey pigeon, with a wing standing up,
inclining backwards, on one shoulder, and a stuffed
bird, with a letter in its mouth, on the other, A
waistcoat of grey satin filled in the front. Two large
swan wings joined the bodice, and covered each side
of the skirt. The back was all bouillonn6 tulle and
the front plaitings. Two letters, sealed and tied
round with grey satin ribbon, were lightly tacked to
the tulle, to give the idea that they had fluttered
down. The grey gloves were trimmed with feathers,
there was a collarette of them round the throat, the
slippers were to match, and on the head was another
bird. Another costume, jocosely called a " Fan-cy "
dress, was composed of intermingled grey, pink, and
gold tulle, and was profusely trimmed with the little
Japanese fans now obtainable at 2d. each, with the
bodice composed of two larger fans cleverly managed,
and fastening under one arm, the sleeves of smaller
ones bent to rest on the ar.m, and a gold waistband
hiding the handles (or where the handles should be)
from view; little fans as ornaments, and one large
one, bent most cunningly into a becoming shape, on
the head.

TEA-GOWNS of velvet and plush are popular this
winter. One of black velvet, in the Princess form,
recently seen, had the back breadta mounted in full
prominent plaits, and a double row of gathered black
Surah commencing from each side of it; carried
round the hips, meeting in front, and going up to the
throat and down to the feet, in a cascade. The
sleeves had under sleeves of lace, made full, with
arm-bands which fitted to the arm, and allowed the
fulness to fall over. Olive-plush, with shrimp-pink
Surab, is a favourite combination of colour. Silk
embroidery on tussore silk is much worked by ladies
for the fronts of tea-gowns, matching frequently the
five o'clock tea-cloth. It looks very well with the
skirt of plush, or even velveteen. The fronts of many
tea-gowns are made with a tight-fitting waistcoat of
Surab, joined to the sides of the over-gown, and con-
tinued as the apron, opening all the way from the
throat to the knee. Over this falls a loose lace bag
plastron from throat downwards, with a few stitches
or a band at the waist, to give the shirt appearance.
The fronts of the outer gown are loose, but fitting
closely into the figure at sides and back. Three yards
and a half of Sarah forms the front, ten yards the
outer gown, fouryards of muslin lining and balayeus?,
and four yards of piece lace. If passementerie is
required, four yards and a half are sufficient. These
dimensions are for a tall figure. Steels instead of
bones are now much used for bodices and jacket!.
When sateen is used for the foundation of a skirt, it
has the shiny surface neat the petticoat, as it slips
over it easier.

RED leather nurses and prayer-books are fashion-
able—the brig& red lately introduced, which takes
its designation of Royal from the fact of its being
used for the despatch. cases carried by the Queen's
messengers. Watches with cases composed of two
half-crowns, have lately been given as gifts to girls
and boys. They are neat, and also uncommon in ap-
pearance, but arer perhaps, a little apt to be taken
for what children call "pretend watches." Necklets
composed of several rows of jet, pearls, or coloured
beads, mounted on velvet, are much worn by young
girls. They fit closely round the throat; smart little
high collars of velvet, and cuffs to match, are laced
in and out round the edge with a coloured silk lace,
and finished off with loops, falling on to a jabot of
lace. Claret with a pale bide lace, dark blue with a
gold one, and black with red, are particular popular.
Cravats of pale blue, with a handkerchief to match,
are not unfrequently seen with a well-appointed
habit. Plain net veils, with an inch wide hem, are
worn, and also the gold or silk spotted ones, with a
gold or fancy vandyked edge. Many veils are worn
just below the mouth. The last idea in bangles is to
have a small cannon ball attached, in diamonds; and
in bonnet brooches, a good sized button in diamonds.
This button may have a ruby, emerald, or cat's-eye
centre, with diamonds encircling it. Small combs,
with three large jet balls, are plated among the coils
of hair, twisted hit iup on the head. The small
Japanese paper fans are also to be seen, adroitly
arranged on some well-dressed heads.
AMONG the prettiest and most appreciated of
C iristmas and New Year's offerings have been the
plaited green rush baskets in quaint and varied form,
tilled with English hothouse blooms or the fragrant
importations from the South of France. Poinsettias
and white chrysanthemums or lilac are the most
popular flowers for table decoration just at present.
A gilded or silvered basket, with crossed tall handles,
may be seen filled with these flowers, and a red velvet
bow at the junction of the handles, with a white dove
perched upon it. Four large horseshoes, filled with
tlowers, are now placed on a dinner-table, close to the
centre ornament. They are of zinc, and quite hidden
by overlapping maidenhair. They form corners, with
small ornaments in between. .