The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1887-02-12 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

Choose not alone a proper mate,

But proper time to inairy,
wrote the poet Cowper; and there is another im-
portant choice for a woman, says a writer in the
Queen—a proper gown to marry in. Few brides look
their best on their wedding-day; white satin and red
eyes do not accord well, and young girls too often
hide their grace and beauty beneath lace too heavy
for their years. A wedding dress perfect in its sim-
plicity is a desideratum not often found, but I saw
one last week in New Burlington-street, worthy of
description. It was a long sweeping gown of white
satin, draped with the finest creamy-white crêpe
(formerly known as aerophane), the hem bordered
with a crosscut piece gathered under at each edge,
forming a pouf in which satin bows nestled; the
drapery on the skirt only served to show the sheen of
the satin to the beat advantage, and on one side there
was a sash of piece satin, with two long ends, to which
handsome pearl tassels were sewn. The bodice was
cut high, with coat sleeves to the wrist. The full bust
was crossed by clepe, which came from either shouldet
on to the long point in front, laced from :the neck; a
chemisette of piece lace at the throat teemed to end
at the point in a small lace frill, the only lace visible
about the dress. The gathered fulness of these mate-
rials fell naturally on the bodice, in such a way that
they developed the natural graceful lines of the figure
without concealing them. A tiny cluster of orange
blossom was placed on the left side, and in lieu of
tucker there was a bouillonne of crêpe, covering the
collar band. The Valenciennes balayeuse inside the
I skirt, one row of lace falling over the other nearly to
the waist at the back, formed almost a lace dress in
I itself.

Tun bride's mother wore what in dressmaking par-
lance is known as a grande toilette—the long skirt, of
emerald-green velvet, trimmed with a Louis XVI.
brocaded satin, the ground dust-colour, with tiny
brocaded flowers all over, in the exquisitely subdued
colourings of that period. This peeped from beneath
the coat cuffs, and draped the front of the bodice,
being gathered full at the waist, and formed panels on
the skirt. There was a dainty bonnet to match. The
tucker was made of a soft tint of pink aerophane,
most becoming to the skin.

THEM{ are women who clothe themselves, and there
are women who dress—a broad distinction. The
latter mostly need assistance in the subtle art of
showing off their charms to the best advantage and
hiding defects with a skill which often enables a
passable woman to appear good-looking. The best of
all such coadjutors is a clever dressmaker. I felt the
full force of this the other day when viewing a dress
made for a large figure; a magnificent figure it seemed
so apparelled. Size is too often an inseparable accom-
paniment of middle life, and there are quite as many
middle-aged women in the world as young ones.
Even the latter may like to think that by-and-bye
size may be an added charm, and not a drawback.
The dress was a white brocade on a moire ground ;
the high bodice showed a well-developed bust and a
slender waist, the effect 7produced by cross-cut side
pieces, which moulded the figure; the long point at
the waist also diminished the size; the front was
covered with a long drapery of tulle, having pendeat
tassels of crystal beads; the plain sleeves came well
over the elbow, and was bordered with similar tulle.
The train was long and plain, with two jellybag points
at the back of the waist, forming revers on the fulness,
and standing out well—an arrangement which also
served to lessen the size of the waist. The front was
1 white satin, with a broad box-pleat in the centre,while
carried far back at the side were draperies of the
finest Brussels lace,with a suspicion only of the beaded
tulle peeping from beneath the train; at the side,
bows of satin mingled with the lace, and, flanking the
centre pleat, there was a clasp crystal fringe at the
I hem, which vibrated as the wearer moved. The lace
I softened the outline of the hips and broke the con-
tinuity at the side.

THERE are teagowns and teagowns. The name as
now applied would seem to mean a high dress with a
bodice trimmed so as not to appear too close-fitting,
while at the same time a loose one is not considered
good style for dinner wear—a purpooe to which such
gowns are often turned. I will describe one in excel-
lent taste. A satin of a rich flame-red, with the
brocaded design in gold, falling over a front from the
throat to hem, wrought in gold thread tambour stitch
on satin, with large sprays of embroidered flowers in
natural colouring all over them. A wide sash with
ends on one side, bordered with bullion fringe. There
were two of rich cream Sicilienne. I could not decide
which deserved the palm. One was worked in steel
grey beads, forming a background to large faithfully
copied flowers; the other displayed ostrich feathers
worked in pearls and silver, with shaded roses at the foot.
A beautiful tone of heliotrope was worked entirely in
beads of the same shade, the foundation cut away
down the centre, showing festoons of beads a quarter
of an inch apart. All these fronts had pointed bodice
plastrons and cuffs to match. Whatever the number
of dresses to be seen at a business house, there is
always sure to be a black one among them, and the
example showed me was a masterpiece; it was of the
new peau de soie, a make so woven that it veritably
seems a species of leather silk; the back of the skirt
was kilfully and inoxplioably draped; in front there
were three distinct sash-like panels of the silk, ending
in a bow, which, with jet fringe, fell over tulle pleat-
ings ; between these were draperies of jetted net, loose,
yet keeping in their place, and reflecting the light, like
dusky diamond.; it was a successful study in black.
The same finely-cut jet appeared on the bodice.
• •

FOR morning wear there was a costume of cardinal
habit-cloth, simple, yet quite uncommon. Tile full
square skirt draperies fell over three tiny fluted
flounces of the cloth, pinked at the edge, the silk
balayeuse to match inside, pinked also. The bodice
had loose straight fronts, and a back like a covert
jacket, simulated pockets, and plain gold buttons;
the vest had no apparent fastening; it had red velvet
at the throat, like the under habit of a Breton pea-
sant, and below two maize-coloured soft silk hand-
kerchiefs crossed; the same colouring introduced on
the cuffs. This is the best season for buying a winter
mantle, so I will describe one in otter-coloured
velours du Nord, with jet trimmings and distinct
sleeves. It was made short and civelike at the back,
with very long straight ends in front, lined through-
out with poppy-coloured satin, edged with a small flat
ruche of ribbon to match.

BODICES dissimilar, but in unison with the skirts
are worn now, and with two or three of them, and a
few extra skirts, many changes may be rung. I have
seen a bodice in eighteen pieces, without any visible
seams, apparently alternate stripes of velvet and silk;
it is laced in front, the basque is sewn over with jet
beads, having the appearance of a jet cord.

As indications of coming fashions, I will describe
one or two newly-imported stuffs. Heliotrope and
blue are the tints likely to be worn, and a bluish tone
of pink. For evening wear there is crêpe de soie ' • it
has the merit of draping with special softness, and is
to be had in eau de Nil, cream, pale blue, black and
white, check gauze, which is frise at the intersections.
Carmellite woollen, with large spots of self or contrast-
ing tones, are new for morning wear.

AT a recent lecture on dress, by Lady Harberton
her ladyship deplored the absence of progress with
regard to women's dress, though signs of it are visible
in everything else around us. At the Health Exhibi-
tion, the long succession of historical figures, remarked
her ladyship, revealed an unending change in constant
small details, but no real progress. There are the
same defects existing now from which women suffered
centuries ago. The older a woman gets the greater
burden becomes her clothes. She has to wear heavier
gowns, a larger dress-improver, when such things are
in fashion, a bigger bonnet, and more hair on her
head, no matter where it comes from. On the whole,
the costume of a modern grandmother cannot weigh
less than 15 pounds. The lecturer then referred to
some of the dresses worn by ladies who occupied seats
on the platform. One of these was a girl's dress,
suited to the gymnasium as well as country walks and
the routine of daily life. Its utility was apparent to
the audience, but it made no attempt at beauty.
Another lady, Mrs. Pfeiffer, wore a very graceful
modification of the Greek dress. A third was attired
in the ordinary costume of the ()nines° women. A
fourth wore a divided garment, whose division was
not apparent until intentionally revealed by the
wearer. The tight waist and puff at the back were
details to which we are accustomed in every-day life.

AN UNEXPECTED COMMENT.—Pastor: An' I says
again, bredderin, put not yoh trust in kings !—Still
Small Voice in Congregation: Right yoh is, chile,
right yoh is. Aces is bettah."—Anarican Paper.
A SLEEPER is one who sleeps. A sleeper is that in
which the sleepy sleeper sleeps. A sleeper is that on
which the sleeper which carries the sleeper while the
sleeper sleeps runs. Therefore, while the sleeper
sleeps in the sleeper, the sleeper carries the sleeper
over the sleeper under the sleeper until the sleeper
which carries the sleeper jumps off the sleeper and
wakes the sleeper in the sleeper by striking the '
sleeper under the sleeper, and there is no longer any
sleeper sleeping in the sleeper on the sleeper.
A CINCINNATI lawyer was very fond of showing off
his classical learning to a jury. Defending a man
charged with murder, he warned the jury not to allow
public opinion, which was against his client, to influ-
ence their verdict. Give up, said he, all feeling on
this important matter, and be like the ancient Roman
in his adherence to the truth, who, in his defence,
most eloquently declared, Amicus Cato, amicus Plato,
amicus Cicero, sod major veritas. The next morning
the lawyer found himself reported as saying: I may
cuss Cato, I may cuss Plato, I may cuss Cicero, said
Major Veritas.
The following are a few samples of German bulls,
and will no doubt be read with interest: Amongst the
immigants was an old blind woman, who came to
America once more before she died to see her only
son.—After the door was closed, a soft, female foot
slipped into the room, and with her own hand extin-
guished the taper.—Both doctors were unable to re-
store the deceased once more to life and breath.—The
Ladies' Benefit Association has distributed 20 pairs of
shoes amongst the poor, which will dry up many a
tear.—l was at the table enjoying a cup of coffee,
when a gentle voice tapped me on the shoulder. I
looked round, and saw my old friend once mere.—
. Geserscizofter Kalendar.

THE AX-PREMIEE AND THE UNION
--
Mr. Gladstone has written to Professor Swift
31'Neill, M.P. for South Donegal, the following
letter upon his work, "How the Union was Carried":
"Selwyn College Lodge, Cambridge, Feb. 1, 1887
Dear Sir,—l have received your proof sheets, and
will peruse them on the very earliest opportunity I
can command. But that need not delay writing tc
you to say that, in my opinion, the close and careful
investigation of the question, How the Union was
Carried,' forms the most important among the many ,
important historical inquiries necessary for the
full comprehension of the present :Irish ques-
tion. For an incorporating Union, legiti-
mately obtained, forms a compact between
nations not to be altered without a common consent,
independent in the fullest sense on both sides. But
an Act of Parliament obtained by fraud and force
from the weiker party is without moral, though it
possesses legal authority; hence the vast importance
of the inquiry, independently of the other and serious
juridicial question, whether the Irish Parliament of
1800 was under the circumstances competent to give
away its awn existence, which it was commissioned by
the Constitution to spend in providing for the good
government of Ireland.—With very good wishes, I re-
main, W. E. GLADSTONE."