The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1888-06-30 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

THERE seems (remarks Weldon's Lady's Journal)
to be no end to the beautiful materials and trimmings
introduced for the summer season, and now that
summer is fairly with us, all or nearly all the novelties
are introduced. As far as styles are concerned, as
well as materials, everything is now definitely settled;
still, the many beautiful combinations shown in the
new striped and chequered goods offer great scope
for the making up of the same, and our leading
modistes are still taxing their ingenuity for novelties
for the races, garden parties, and fetes. There is
promise of abundant use of cambrics and muslins,
the first-named being nearly as fine as muslin. The
delicate pinks, mauves, blues, lemon, and fawn com-
binations are reserved for stylish toilettes, while the
darker colours are for more general wear, trimmed
with a kind of Venetian embroidery, which is more
durable than lace, yet light and effective.

VELVET is still much employed, especially for
collar, cuffs, and vests, and even for quite delicate
materials, including cambrics, is this rich material
now used. The ordinary pongee or tussore silks are
much employed, owing to the full soft draperies as
well as fashionable smocking, which was never in
greater demand, it being used as a decoration to
panels, bodices, sleeves, mantles, and parasols. The
leading novelty in woollen goods is "edged materials,"
that is to say, plaid fabrics, finished with a border
arranged either as a design in narrow or broad stripes;
then there are striped and chequered woollen goods,
which are mostly made up on the cross, bringing the
lines or squares slantwise round the body or skirt. These
goods are never trimmed, the draperies being merely
finished with a few rows of machine stitching. An
immense quantity of plain woollen goods is used, such
as fine habit cloth, beige and soft tweed of a fine
homespun nature, all of which are finished with pink-
ing, which is also extended to silken materials,
especially the attractive shot silks now used for cross-
way flounces, panels, and skirts. Beige is now shown
in such a variety of fawn, grey, blue-grey, and Vene-
tian red shades, that it is much employed for really
general wear, being light weighted and useful for this
changeable climate, and it is always a durable and
ladylike material. Many of the beige dresses sent
out by the leading houses are most elaborately
braided, while some of the newest makes have a fine
line interwoven at equal distances, to lend the effect
of a stripe. No material has much greater perfection
than beige, which will be much favoured for some
time to come. Watered silk, faille, and shot silks
are made up with this beautifully soft woollen fabric,
and with the light shades of grey, pure white silk
vests are vtry- fashionable.

TITERS seems to be no medium styles this year, by
which I mean either quite deep or very small
draperies are chosen rather than those of half length,
while the same rule holds good for mantles, some of
which are extremely small, especially in the sleeve
part, while others, although short at the back, fall
long in front, and are especially adopted by married
ladies.

I RAVE seen a number of lace gowns which are
arranged as a full skirt from side to side, with
either one wide or two medium silk panels finished
with jet pendants. The back is always of silk,
satin, moire, or such material, which forms the bodice,
lace being here introduced as bretelles or a plastron.
Soft silk or satin draperies are arranged to open upon
a, lace skirt.

HANDSOME gimp trimmings are sold by the yard,
whi:e epaulettes, ornaments, fancy cords, &c., are
shown in all the leading colours, while in jet most
elaborate trimmings are shown for mantle and dress
purposes. Steel and coloured bead trimmings are
shown in great variety, Chantilly lace and ribbons of
all widths, makes, and colours being also much
favoured.

THE introduction of the soft silks, &c., has created
many novelties in the way of full bodices, many of
which are smocked, while others are outlined with
revers of velvet, jet, or gimp, this last-named as a
trimming being extremely fashionable as well as
expensive.

BRAIDING on outdoor jackets VMS never more
popular, many of the narrow braids being arranged
on their edge, so as to stand out well in raised loops.
Handsome velvet and lace mantles are shown in all
the new shapes, trimmed lavishly with jet, while
jetted gauze and rich faille are employed with excel-
lent effect. For the next few months dust cloaks will
be found useful. These are generally trimmed with
a cross-cut ruche of self material, but the best
models, which are made in tussore or chequered silk,
are often enriched with a coarse silk lace, and velvet
collar.

MANY of the light makes of fancy cloth are arranged
with what would really be termed travelling cloaks,
a favourite style for which is fitted with three seams
in back, and just below the waist the full skirt part
gathers on and turns over, the sleeve being carried
over to the neck and cut to the entire length of the
mantle. A shaped revers of silk trims the sleeve
part. Shot alpacas are always much employed in
Paris for dust wraps, but silver grey or delicate
-faWn—sliaTe-s—ict(Tino r e t-O—DO admired, as, while look-
ing smart, they do not show the dust, while they tho-
roughly protect the dress.

As to the shape of sleeves just now, there is, I
might say, an unlimited variety both for dresses and
mantles. For indoor wear full sleeves of every pos-
sible style are introduced, and on some of the coat
shapes 1 find-folds of lace added to the outsides, or
sometimes a tiny puffing of another material is in-
serted. For tea gowns flowing sleeves, known as
angel's sleeves, are made both square, pointed, and
round, some reaching to the extreme edge of the
dress, others being but moderately long, within
being a close-fitting coat sleeve, or one that permits
of a deep smocked cuff, for smoking is really in-
troduced everywhere possible. These angel sleeves
are even added to outdoor garments, and I have
seen them in fine Chantilly lace gathered into
the armhole, then tied up at their extreme edge with
ribbons and jet.

BLOUSE bodices were never offered In a greater
variety, and were never more fashionable than now,
when they are seen in plain and striped flannels,
plain and fancy cambrics, and soft silks. Vests still
play an important part in bodice trimmings, and,
owing to the soft nature of many of the new materials,
full vests gain favour. It is said that muslin fichus
and large cravats will gain favour, while long lace
scarfs in black, cream, fawn, and brown Chantilly
lace are so dressy and becoming.

MANY of his season's mantles are made with•quite
deep lace fronts, while some have a very small sleeve,
reaching only midway between shoulder and elbow,
and more often than not a different material is em-
employed for the sleeve.

THERE is a decided tend.,ney to make dresses ap•
pear straighter; full, bunchy draperies are carefully
avoided, so as to give no extra size to the hips,
whilst the pouf arrangements at back are not in the
least exaggerated, the pleats and folds are allowed to
fall gracefullY, and the tournure is small. Roughly
speaking, there .may be said to be two different
styles, both of which arc now worn, but at present it
is impossible to say which will retain favour longest.
These are the dresses made in redingote style or with
straight panel-like effect, whilst the other consists of
gracefully arranged drapery, still, however, retaining
the straight line from the waist. The attempt to
revive the " Empire" style has proved a failure;
true, round bodices are worn, but the waist is rot
just under the arms, but on the hips.

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