The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1887-05-14 00:00:00

TERRIBLE FATAL FIRES in HUNGARY,

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

THE rough bouclé and fris6 effects, which were a
prominent feature of the last year's fabrics for cotton
dresses, have (says the Queen) no existence amongst
the novelties of this season. Zephyrs, on the other
hand, take the foremost position; but they are
zephyrs endowed with so many new features as to
endanger their recognition. First, there are what are
known as block checks in every colour, and these are
either used as drapery over plain surfaces, or them-
selves supply the foundation to draperies of uniform
appearances. There are broken bars, which present
checks both large and small ; as well as plain stripings
in numerous sizes, and in every shade of blue, pink,
heliotrope, and old rose. But the salient novelties in
fabrics are the examples of lace and embroidered
stripes between even-surfaced zephyrs. The embossed
designs are shown in a deeper tone of colour than
that of the foundation on which they are placed,
flanked by stripings of lace. The snowflake, which
suggests that a tiny speck of down has been worked
into the warp, and thus broken monotonous surfaces
of pink, blue, and heliotrope. Then there are the lace
stripings alternating with what is known as beaten
flax—a treatment which gives to the latter the
appearance of satin; and finally, the woven textures
which present the soft brocaded bouquets in divers
colours associated with the Louis XVI. silks. These
are shown in stripings of pink, blue, and mauve,
alternating with bands of embroidery or open lace
work. They are really beautiful, bear close examina-
tion, and are, in fact, carefully copied from old
French models.

THE treatment of these cotton fabrics is almost as
varied as their designs, but exceptional are the
examples of costumes made without embroidery.
This decoration is being supplied with an unsparing
band. it is more often provided in colour than in
white, although there are instances of the petticoat
being entirely shown in the latter with a drapery of
zephyr carried over it.
* * *

OCCASIONALLY bands of 4-inch width embroidered
insertion alternate with others of zephyr of corre-
sponding proportion. Foundations of grey are
draped with flouncings bearing satin stitch em-
broideries in black and white of 24-inch depth. Sur
faces of "bleu de ciel" and Admiralty blue have
appliqué lace patterns apparent in the three naval
colours. Guipure designs are shown in twine, cream,
and beige; but, like other laces and embroideries,
more often supplied in insertion than flouncing.

LONG draperies predominate upon costumes of this
nature. They are often opened down the centre of
a skirt where they let their bordering bands of em-
broidery be seen in straight lines, or else describe an
apron. There are instances of long draperies broken
by a box-pleat, arranged either in the middle of the
front breadth or upon one side. Occasionally strip-
logs of brocaded zephyrs have the appearance of sloe
panels supplied between folds of embroidery. In
other costumes the plain material prevides kiltings
both at the back and side of a skirt, and lets the
drapery, waistcoat, cuffs and collar be of brocaded
zephyr. A bodice yoke is frequently shown in em-
broidery, and the entire front of the skirt represented
is the same, while the back of self-colour falls into a
cascade. There are also instances in which the
greater proportion of a skirt is arranged in close box-
pleats.of zephyr, divided by bands of embroidery of
corresponding width.

As on former occasions Lady Colin Campbell was
(says the Lacl.2i's Pictorial) the beheld of all beholders
at this year's Royal Academy private view, and cer-
tainly she had attired her graceful self in some very
charming garments. Her bat was in the new Trianon
shape, and made in a fine sort of lace straw altogether
indescribable for beauty and exceeding lightness
The shape, which shaded the face in front. was caught
up at the back with full clusters of pale lilac, so as to
reveal the prettily cc robed up hair, fastened by a num-
ber of small tortoise.shell combs. Lady Colin's gown
was of a fine black silk gauze, with satin stripes,
made to open hi front over a vest and underskirt of
lilac satin, veiled with fine black lace. The sleeves
were of the blsck material from shoulder to elbow,
made very full,, the rest of the arm being clothed
tightly to the wrist with lilac satin, covered with fine
black lace. A imech of real lilac worn on the bodice
and pale primrose gloves completed the costume.
Lady Archibald Cumpbell appeared in a long cloak of
rough blue sergo, made with a cape, and worn with a
quaint cap of blv.e velvet fitting close to the head.
Lady Salisbury hai a gown of grey silk and a mantle
of black striped vtivet, with a pretty grey bonnet to
correspond. Lady Coleridge looked exceedingly
pretty in a gown of pale fawn colour, with a large
cluster of lovely yellow roses on her bodice, and a
dainty little bonnet in black and white. Lady
Randolph Churchill, looking younger and handsomer
than ever, wore rasher a remarkable half-length mantle
of deep myrtle-green pompadour velvet, fitting tightly
to the figure, trimmed with jet, and bordered with
deep frills of blalik Chantilly lace. Lady Itandolplfe
boanet was of llack lace, with clusters of lilac and
pale green leave), Lady biker looked very hand-
some in a simply,made tailor gown, with draperies of
tan cloth, over a skirt of corduroy velvet of the same
eolour, braided here and there with gold thread, and
worn with a bonuet of deep crimson.

MR. J. L. Tool,E brought his daughter—a graceful
figure in her protty gown of pale green cashmere.
Mr. Bancroft anti his son came with Mrs. Bancroft,
who looked excsedingly well in a gown and mantle
of b'ack lace and velvet, with jet trimmings, and a
small French boLnet, with'a folded crown of poppy-
red velvet. No theatrical group would be complete
without some of the Terry family, who were repre-
sented on this occasion by Miss Marion Terry, looking
well in a black bonnet, and a long mantle of dark
green; Mrs. Morris, completely clad in terra-cotta
plush; and Mrs. Arthur Lewis (Miss Kate Terry) in
a charming costume of olive-green cashmere, with a
small sling-sleeve manntle, and a bonnet and muff of
°lit e-green, brightened with loops of narrow velvet in
a lovely shade of pale pink. Lady Monckton made
a conspicuous figure, in a handsome gown of steel
grey velours frise, with brocaded stripes in a darker
shade of the same colour, bodice and train opening
over a petticoat of pale grey satin. Lady Monckton's
bonnet was grey to correspond, and she wore a large
black lace fichn, tied in a big bow in front, and fas-
tened with a diamond brooch. Mrs. Kendal appeared
to be enjoying herself vastly. She wore a pretty
French gown of fine black lace with velvet insertions
over a petticoat of shot silk, a neat little covert coat,
and a small black straw bonnet trimmed with yellow
flowers. Miss Dorothy Dene appeared in her favourite
porcelain blue. Her gown was of blue satin, with
fine stripes of white, and she wore a big shady Liberty
hat, covered with silk of the same blue, and trimmed
with long plumes of blue ostrich feathers. Among
the other theatrical celebrities I must also mention
Lady Theodore Martin (Helen Faucit) and Mrs.
Beerbohm Tree, the latter looking very charming in
a co3tume of golden-brown. Madame Antoinette
Sterling, the only lady vocalist whom I noticed in the
crowd, wore a somewhat startling combination of
emerald green and brilliant yellow, a green velvet hat
with yellow feathers, and draperies of green velvet
over a petticoat of multi-coloured brocade.

As a rule the wives of the artists were in no way
conspicuous by the gorgeousness of their attire. Mrs.
Luke Fildes, looking almost as though she had that
moment stepped down from her frame, was clothed,
as usual, entirely in black, her silk gown and velvet
bonnet suiting her to perfection. Mrs. Frederick
Goodall was also in black, with a tight-Mting bodice
and a plain underskirt of velvet, graceful draperies of
finest black cashmere, and a bonnet made entirely of
gold embroidery on pink crepe lisse, and trimmed
with pale pink ribbons and clusters of roses. Mrs.
Boughton Ead a charming gown of pale fawn-
coloured silk, with a bodice and draperies of tartan
check velvet, in harmonising shades of colour, while
Miss Boughton appeared in a delightful little frock
of biscuit cashmere, with a vest of pale pink cripe de
chine, and a distinguished-looking high-crowned hat,
covered with dark chestnut-brown velvet. Mrs.
Brett wore an artistic combination of grey cashmere
and plush; the Misses Tadema were quietly but
becomingly attired in gowns of very subdued colour-
ings. Mrs. Seymour Lucas came in black satin, with
a mantle of ruby plush, and a ruby straw bonnet
trimmed with bows of blue-grey ribbon; while Lady
Linton looked exceedingly well in a long mantle of
golden brown plush, trimmed with chenille, and a
tasteful bonnet of grey-green straw.
* •

THE lady artists, who, to tell the truth, have not
been very well bung this year, were rather few and
far between. Among others, however, Mrs. Jopling
looking exceedingly picturesque, in a delightful bat
of fine black straw, lined underneath with pale
yellow straw, and caught up at the back with a
cluster of daffodils. Her gown was of black silk,
worn.with a smart little covert coat in pale grey
cloth, made with a revers of velvet, and brightened
by a cluster of pale yellow roses worn at the throctt.
Mrs. Allinghain, who had deserted her own exhibition
in Bond-street, wore a gown of bronze silk, an amber
necklace, and a hat trimmed with cream lace. Miss
Dorothy Tennant, Miss Henrietta Corkran, Miss
Margaret Dicksee, and Mrs. ;Cecil Lawson were also
present, as well as several other " sisters of the
brush."

LinshAßy ladies were more prominent than ever.
Miss Braddon (Mrs. Maxwell) wore a gown of grey
and red, a long black mantle, and a grey and red
bonnet to match the skirt. Mrs. J. E. Panton was
entirely in grey. Her skirt was of grey silt with a
wide silk riv,he round the hem in front, draperies of
grey cashmere and embroideries of lead beads.
With this a small mantle was worn, made with a
hood, and embroidered to match the skirt. Mrs.
Penton wore a grey bonnet to correspond, with pale
yellow flowers high in front. Mrs. Fenwick Miller
appeared in a tasteful Parisian gown of fine cloth in
a r'cli shade of chestnut brown, trimmed profusely
with real yac lace, and worn with a graceful little
mantle of cla,k
,faille francaise, heavily embroidered
in je-. Mrs. Fonwick Miller's bonnet was of the new
tuacati straw, quite a novel French shape, with loops
of pale hue ribbon resting on the hair and tall bows
to correspond in front, mixed with sprays of red.
brown foliage..,

MRS. POWER OTIONOGIME looked as trimly neat as
over in a delightful Dore gown of pale grey cloth

trimmed with astrachan, and worn with hat and
muff, scrupulously en suite. Mrs. Armstrong wore a
simple gown of black cashmere with a charming
little mantle, drawn down to a point back and front,
and beaded with dull jet in the prettiest fashion
possible, chains of jet beads forming graceful epau-
lette sleeves, the same kind of trimming being re-
peated on the crape bonnet with excellent effect.
Mrs. Strange Butson had a charming gown of brown
cloth with multi-coloured stripes, each colour being
cunningly repeated in her dainty little bonnet of
brown silk gauze. Her mantle was of brown velvet,
glittering with passementerie. Nor must I forget to
mention, among the lady writers, Miss Ella Hep-
worth Dixon, in a gown of dark heliotrope cloth
daintily embroidered with gold, and worn with:a hat
of coarse black straw trimmed with heliotrope
ribbon; Miss Ethel Lloyd, in a Redfern summer
tweed of pale grey, delightfully cool and fresh-look-
ing, with a neat white cravat and a grey hat, with
white wings to correspond; Mrs. Lankester, other-
wise "Penelope," in black; Miss Armstrong, and
Miss Catharine Drew.

MRS. OSCAR WILDE was a very notable figure in
her brown dzrectoire costume, with a large hat lined
with velvet turned up sharply at the back, and
trimmed with brown ostrich feathers. Her long
coat of brown cloth was 'faced with pale buff, and
opened at the throat over a folded handkerchief of
pale blue silk. Mrs. Mame looked very handsome
in a gown of Baltic blue cloth, made with a sling-
sleeve cape, and a flat-pointed hood, lined with a
dainty shot silk, in checks of white, blue, and
chestnut. Her small, stringless bonnet was of
chestnut-brown gauze, trimmed with bows of the
checked shot silk, and worn with a very becoming
veil of spotted Baltic blue gauze.

AT the Grosvenor Gallery private view, Lady Salis-
bury, in her grey costume, just escaped the thick of
the crowd. The tall form of Sir Frederick Pollock
towered above it, as he protectingly gave his arm to
his daughter, who wore a dark grey gown, and a grey
plush bonnet trimmed with red tulips and lilie3 of the
valley. Mdme. Antoinette Sterling again patronised
her stertling green plash gown with the tapestry
window-curtain tablier, and glittered brilliant as a
dragon-fly amidst the throng. Mrs. Oscar Wilde's
curious loose long brown coat, with the mist near the
arm-pits, and decorated with immense buttons, drew
much notice. Lady Colin oAmpbelPs tall and graceful
figure was conspicuous in the crowd, for she bore an
even more striking chapeau than that which she had on
at the Academy. Her dress was of black striped silk,
draped in front with spotted net; her mantle of
black velvet and jetted grenadine and ;ace prettily
combined; and her exceedingly showy bonnet, flamed
with orange-colour, which lighted
.up the brilliant
brunette beauty most effectively. The shape was
formed of frills of black lace gradually rising fuller
and higher from the brow to the crown, where the
trimming commenced, this being all placed on the
back of the bonnet; it consisted of large clusters of
deep yellow hyacinth, topped by two upright and im-
mense yellow tulips, the back of the bonnet and the
strings being of orange-coloured ribbon velvet.

LADY RANDOLPH CHURCHILL was admirably suited by
her brown plush mantle and bronze-green dress, with a
bonnet of black lace, relieved by the delicate white of
lillies of the valley. Other well-known politicians present
with their wives were Mr. Leonard Courtney, Mrs.
Courtney wearing a mantle of peacock-blue cloth and
bonnet to corresr ond ; and Mr. Syaney Buxton, with
Mrs. Buxton in a very pretty tailor-made dress of
blue and brown stripes fris6 on a dark biscuit ground,
a brown velvet short mantle with bretelles of beautiful
passementerie of opal beads, and a high brown straw
bonnet.