The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1888-01-21 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

Orm readers (says the Season) will undoubtedly be
glad to have some information from Paris regarding
the sort and style of mantles. All large wraps in-
tended for street wear incline either to the circular or
redingote shape, and are only tight-fitting at the
back. Elegant ladies like to show their handsome
dresses, and for this purpose have their mantles
beautifully lined and provided with invisible hooks,
which fasten the fronts back like a revers when occa-
sion requires. The favourite material is Pekin silk,
with broad velvet stripes, figured with silk noppe
loops. The mantles are invariably lined with light-
coloured silk, pale pink being perhaps the most fashion-
able. The trimming consists of pinked out faille fril-
ling, to match the mantle; the hat is also trimmed
with a similar trimming. These visiting mantles have
a layer of flannel between the lining and the outer stuff,
but still they are not taken off in the entrance hall,
when the lady is paying calls, as is the custom in the
case of heavy cloaks edged or lined with fur. Another
sort of visiting mantle is notable for its curious
colour combination, the upper material being pale
green rep, the lining heliotrope Surah, and the collar,
cuffs, and the pocket dark-blue velvet. This mantle
is the redingote Lamartine shape, the broad turn-
down collar of which can, in accordance with the
wearer's taste, be fastened with old-silver clasps.
Another novelty which has found much favour in the
eyes of leaders of fashion deserves especial mention.
It is a redingote, fastened all the way up the front,
and made of thick white cloth; the pleats in front
are pressed firmly, and finished off with two large gilt
buttons, like a livery coat, but happily the similarity
ends there. The straight revers on both sides and
the double sleeves and collar are ornamented with
the finest gold embroidery. The short, wide cuffs of
the narrow sleeves are another peculiarity. In addi-
tion to these costly garments, there are also many
pretty useful mantles, intended for serviceable wear
and protection against wet and cold. These are
made of waterproof cloth, especially garnet-red mixed
with grey; the two colours make the mantles very
distinguished looking. The sleeves are very long,
and can be turned up and down as warmth and com-
fort suggests. They are lined with short, napped
plush, and the collar and broad trimming of the
fronts, which serves the double purpose of pockets,
are made of the same; the plush, be it remarked, is
of a lighter colour than the mantle itself. The back
is arranged in closed folds from the neck to the waist,
which then fall loose, and allow the needful width for
the skirt.

THE latest novelty is a sort of tulle bearing the
name pompadour. This white tulle is embroidered
with roses in pale-pink silk, between which blue
ribbon bows are interspersed. White moire is much
used for slips and under material, now that ladies are
wearied of creme in all varieties and styles.

LONG I' As are coming more and more into favour.
Both light and dark fur is worn as trimming for
mantles, but the colour, whichever it be, must match
that of the boa. Otter or beaver is the newest thing
to be worn with brown cloth.

A BECOMING turban hat for young ladies' wear
shows a very original combination of red and blue.
The plain brim is made of red velvet, and the full
crown of dark-blue plush. A fancy bird, made of red
and blue feathers, is a suitable finish.

SHADED plush embroidery is the newest trimming for
the very fashionable cloth dresses. The work is done
in every shade, and must always be chosen to exactly
match the dress.

Ix addition to the brilliant red, which especially in
cloth and flannel is now so much used for children's
dresses, we have seen some equally pretty little frocks,
made entirely in blue. A blue plush hat with pleated
brim can be worn by both girls and boys.

Two materials of the same colour are now super-
seding the former arrangement of two different
colours in the same material. For instance, the short
paletot, with loose front and sideway fastening, is
trimmed with black plush. The black plush hat or
bonnet is trimmed with green feathers to match the
Poplin dress with which it is worn.

AMONG the few ball toilettes which have as yet
appeared, those just made in Paris for the Queen of
Portugal carry off the palm for elegance. One of these
toilettes is made of sky-blue velvet, with bouquets
of flowers in delicate gobelin colour woven in the
velvet. The front :breadth is trimmed with old
Mechlin lace; black satin rosettes, with a diamond
dew drop in the centre, are placed between the lace
quillings. A second toilette is made of Sevres blue,
and old rose-coloured striped silk. Three deep pleats
are arranged on one side of the train; they are held
by old 'rose-coloured ribbon bows. The pale, rose-
coloured silk gauze, Marie Antoinette fichu, which
ornaments the bodice, is fastened with a similar bow.
THE Queen Regent of Spain has lately laid aside her
mourning, and thereby given a new impulse to courtly
elegance: She has had a magnificent morning robe
made in Paris. The skirt and Spanish jacket were
made of ,Sevres blue velvet, embroidered with gold
and silver. The jacket opens in front over a white
silk neckhandkerchief, and the demi-long sleeves are
slashed to the shoulder, showing a fmely-pleated white
silk under-sleeve. Another young royal lady, the
Queen of Holland, has ordered a white crape dress,
with silver-veined damask devant. A black feather
boa goes round the top of the tight-fitting waist,
edges the cross folds on the bosom, and falls over the
hips, where a silver agraffe keeps it in place, down to
the bottom of both sides of the damask breadth. A
promenade dress, lately ordered by the same lady,
was made of Scotch plaid plush and Corduan leather-
coloured plush, the ground colour of the plaid itself.
The hat to match is lined with copper-red, and
trimmed with birds and moire ribbon.

HERE are some fashion notes from America : Gilt-
edged ribbons are coming in favour. Shoulder capes
of fur have taken the place of boas. Some of the new
polonaises are made with Japanese sleeves.

MEN of taste and refinement wear inconspicuous
jewellery. Double sleeves are a feature of children's
putside garments. Sealskin jackets are seen with
vest and cuffs of beaver. Handsome reception dresses
zan be made of white velvet trimmed with chin-
chilla.

GENTLEMEN'S white lawn neckties, for evening dress,
ire slightly wider, and aro tied in a small, stiff bow.
Young girls are now wearing a small bunch of curls
loosely arranged at the back of the head, in place of the
Grecian knot.

PARTY frocks for little girls are made ot pale blue,
Jelicate pink, or cream surah, prettily trimmed with
valencientes lace. Half sleeves of silk or moire,
pointed longest inside the arm, are worn on evening
and reception toilets, over long, full sleeves of lace.
Red and black is a favourite combination, and the
reds so employed are of the brightest.

Fun collarettes, which are also called scarfs, are cut
deep and round, and pointed in front, or finished with
square ends. Narrow bands of curled ostrich feathers
are used to trim the edge of dressy bonnets, producing
a very soft and pretty effect. Handsome sash ribbons
of moire antique, set at the back of the basquo and
falling in long loops and ends, are sometimes added
to ball costumes of transparent fabrics.

IVORY, marigold, yellow, raspberry, heliotrope, deli-
cate green, and azalea pink are the coLpurs most
favoured for dancing dresses, while blue is still worn
by those to whom it is especially becoming. A hand-
some dress is made of terracotta ladies' cloth,
elaborately trimmed with real India galloon in gold,
copper, and other iridescent tones, with which terra
cotta is blended,
,and it is made up over a petticoat of
terracotta velvet in two shades, mixed with gold.

WiTn the go.belin-blue costumes, almost as fashion-
able now as heliotrope used to be, are worn gloves of
the same colour, in dressed kid, and with broad
stiching on the back in a lighter shade.

BONNETS are growing smaller, and there will pro-
bably be few of the high ones left by midwinter,
while the new ones are round and low, being the exact
opposites of those of last winter.

EMBROIDERED cloth is now sold by the yard, to be
used with plain colours, and two yards will transform
a simple gown into an elaborate one. Beige, cream,
and gray cloths are worked in gothic designs, like the
arch of an ornate church window, showing every line
of the tracery, and the embroidery is carried out
either in gold, silver, or steel, mixed with cashmere
colours, while another class of embroidery has tufts
of plush intermingled, resembling jewels.

STARTLING.—He (rapturously) .And now that's all
settled, darling, what kind of an engagement-ring
would you like ?" She: " Oh, gold this time, I hope,
dearest. I'm quite sick of wearing imitation engage-
ment-rings.". Tableau!
MISTRESS, who has caught the odour of a strong
pipe: "have you company in the kitchen, Bridget ?"
Bridgttt : "No, ma'am." Mistress peeps in and sees
two men, and exclaims: "Why, Bridget, how can
you tell me such a story ?" Bridget: "Story, is it?
Shure, when your cousin was comin' the other day,
didn't yer tell me not to get up anythin' extra for
dinner as you didn't consider her company? And
faith, it's only me cousins inside, ma'am. Story in-
dacle !"

HE was naturally bashful, and in her company was
as dumb as an oyster. She understood him, and one
evening asked plainly what made him so silent when
he called on her. " don't know," he stain-
mered. "I always—ah--have something to say
before you come in, but I can't get it out." "In-
deed ?'" she said, encouragingly. " Yes ;I am like a
bottle that is corked up tight." "Very tight, Mr.
Smith?" "Yes, indeed—very." "Well, that isn't
so bad as you think. There is one good thing about
it." "What is it, pray ?" "Why, you know the
tighter a bottle is corked the more forcibly it pops."
He grasped the situation at once, and now she doesn't
care whether he Wks or not. She is content to do it
CI herself.

THE AGITATION IN IRELAND.