The Dorset County Express and Agricultural Gazette.
Dorchester, Dorset, England, 1865-05-02 00:00:00

PERFUMES

Johnston in his "Chemistry of Common Life" has told
us much about scents; but Mr. Rimmel in his newly-
published and perfumed "Book of Perfnmes" has told
us more. Like everything he brings out, whether
perfumed fountains or perfumed operas this perfumed
book of Eugene Rimmers is exceedingly elegant. That
is appropriate; for how are we to appreciate the
highest refinements of human luxury in any other
form? But that is by no means the great merit of a
volume at once gorgeous, luxurious, and delicate. In
reading before the Society of Arts, in officiating as •
juryman at the great Exhibition in the department of
perfumery, Mr. Rimmel positively fell in love with his
it, and conceived the impulse to become its historian.
With great good taste he has, however, avoided what-
ever might seem to savour of the shop. Of course we
all know that he occupies the famous perfumery at the
corner of Beaufort-buildings, in the Strand; but be only
mentions that as somewhat historical, sineethere,in that
identical shop of scented jets deaux, the far-famed
Charles Lilly of the Tatter preceded the author. One
thing is strange—on opening the book several ladies
who had already discovered its merits, and became
possessed of it ere it reached our humble den, surprised
us by maintaining the declaration, that it is
absolutely so elaborately scented that there is
perceptible a different afflatus from every page.
Coleridge minted twenty-aeven ills—tine—t— well,
" scents" in a certain cathedral ety, but we are not
aware that he averred they were all Eau-de-Cologne.
But, positively, however it may be managed—this
seems true of Mr. Rimmel'." Book of Perfumes." The
force of perfumery surely "can no farther go." Con-
siderably more than 200 spirited engravings illustrate
his beautiful book, from the first perfumed altar of
man in wondering ignorance to those last refinements
of floral elegance for which the world is ransacked, that
the pampered children of luxury may, despite the
wretched sarcasm of the punster, "die of the rose—in
aromatic pain." No form of olfactory indulgence, no
nation of the earth, no age or fashion but is here
depicted and described. Heie the Egyptian princess is
recalled from her mummy case; the puffed and
powdered belle of last century from her tomb; th •
hideous African head-dress with its scented horns ;
Linnaeus in his Swedish simplicity with his floral
clock (and well the great botanist deserves a place
amongst the perfumes on which no enthusiaet ever
dwelt with greater rapture). The Egyptians, however,
Afford • chapter of themselves. It is fall of the most
carious details and illustrations—the embalming—the
sacrifice—the oenaer —the ointment of their singular
civiliaation having been one and all perfumed. Think
of Cleopatra floating down the Cydnua, and Mr.
Rimmed appears bound to emulate on such a theme the
very ecstasies of Shakespeare! Then the Jew. with
their altar of Incense bring an access of absolute sublimity
into the art of perfumes, as we think of the service of
the Most Nigh God, to which its dedication was corn-
, mended. Mr. Rimmel follows this up with researches
regarding the ancient Asiatic nations, the Greeks (of
which we are bound to acknowledge the Etruscan
elegance), and the Romans. The two last chapters
afford scope for a fair display of classical learning, which,
considering that his book must principally be • favourite
with the ladies, the author has very oonsiderstely pre-
, seated invariably in the form of translation. The
Orientals, meaning Turks and Arab., afford some
curious details; which in "the far East" lose all their
gravity, however, and enter upon the ludicrous in the
"fashion" plates of Japan, of which we are presented
with • fac•intnik. This finally paves the way for
introducing the practices of uncivilised nations, whirl
to say the truth, even in the article of perfumery,
sometimes appear to be more powerful then refined.
Ultimately, the author conducts us down through the
period of the middle ages, from ancient to modern
times, filling pages with the endless varieties of last
century bead-dresses. The last chapters of this interest-
ing, elegant, and varied volume, are the most valuable;
they relate to the commercial uses of flowers and plants;
and to the materials used in perfumery. Of the range
taken by the latter, few have, perchance a notion.
They embrace not only animal, floral, herbal; but to
adopt Mr. Rimmers technicalities, free as he steers of
them "andropogon, citrine, ligneous, radical, seminal,
balmy or resinous and fruity, and artificial" substances.
Only three animal substances are used, musk, civet and
ambergris; and even of floral only eight, jasmine,
rose, orange, tuberose cassis, violet, jonquil, and nar-
eisstui; but the herbal series comprises, of course, all
aromatic plants. Surely we wish • long and perfumed
life to Eugene Rimmel, ere yet the time shall come,
when he is laid up in lavender to realise Fair Rosa-
mond's epitaph.
.•ole jacit in tarn" Rosamund' non Rosamund'
Non rodolet s.d olet quern redolert Bohn,"