The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1884-09-06 00:00:00

64

THE STOURBRIDGE OBSERVER.

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

Trfn sudden bat not unexpected break-np of the
hot weather at the beginning of last week has neces-
sitated the substitution of more substantial fabrics for
the gossamer-like productions of the loom, which has
been so acceptable during the previous few weeks.
But the needful change in material is at present un-
accompanied by any remarkable novelties in style;
indeed, we shall probably find the present fa.shions
will be followed with few variations until the autumn
season has fairlyset in, when the ingenuity of modistes
will be taxed to devise something in the way of a new
departure, and no doubt we shall have a variety of
designs at once graceful and seasonable. In an article
on the "Fashions of the Day," the Queen indicates
such changes as are being made. We extract the fol-
lowing: The lace skirts and dainty sateens are being
gradually superseded by the woollen fabrics and more
serviceable cambrics; the gauze, lace, and grass para-
sols for the stout-handled en tout cas ; and the
wonderful headgear of flowers, fruit, ribbon, and lace,
for the neater sailor hat with its twisted handker-
chiefs or the close-fitting caps composed of the
material of the costume. The square-heeled, thick-
soled boots and shoes are taking the place of the
fancy ones, embroidered in many cases with gold and
silver; and red, navy blue, or black hose are seen in
Lisle thread and Balbriggan under the varied skirts.
Navy blue and red is the favourite mixture of the
season, and it is carried out in cambric, nun's veiling,
and serge. The generality of skirts are full and pNn,
with two or three deep, or several narrow, tucks, ana
a polonaise, or tunic and round-waisted bodice, smartly
bunched up and trimmed with ribbons.

CAPES are still a good deal worn, and some novel
ones are ;made like a half shawl, with one end looped
up in front towards the throat, and the other fastened
to one side with a mass of ribbon loops. Several of
these are made of the small plaid shawls so much
worn by Scotch working women, but it requires a
skilful hand to cut them well on the shoulders. The
blue materials spotted with red are frequently worn
with plain blue petticoats, and a red kerchief inserted
in front., made to button down one side, and on the
-Oilier side a cascade of Russian lace. The kerchief is
plaited flat at.the throat, but full below, and very often
reaches only to the bust; forming a square. These
waistcoats are most generally worn, and by being
buttoned down both sides can be varied at will. They
are also arranged in cream black, or jetted lace, for
converting.open square bodices into high ones. The
fulness hangs a little below the ordinary square,
or is continued to the waist, and plaited to
match the top. Black and white shepherd's
plaid costumes are made up with a larger
check, which has a stylish effect. The waistcoat
would be of the larger check buttoned down one side
with black velvet buttons, and ornamented on the
other with small graduated rosettes of black velvet;
the sleeves would have check cuffs, tied at the back of
the arm with black velvet, and a plaiting of the large
check would be inserted above a narrow one of the
small, and below the drapery of the skirt. Blue serge
or flannel looks well with waistcoat, cuffs, and panels
of white, braided with broad navy blue braid in
horizontal stripes; the skirt usually opens at the
sides to show the white, and sometimes in front as well,
so that the blue.overskirt is divided into two panels,
the tunic above being drawn back in folds and allowed
to fall at the back in fulness. The stripes of braid on
the white serge have a very good effect. This style is
carried out in black and grey with black braid, and in
blue over red with blue braid.

TEA-GOWNS still remain fashionable, and, at this
time of the year, how useful they are for slipping on
in the afternoon, between tea and dinner, after a
long walk or ride, or for a quiet home evening.
They vary but little in form, for nearly all are Prin-
cesse at the back, though arranged in many a different
style in front. Some are draped or plaited at the
back, with the fronts of silk or satin, covered with
figured net, hanging straight down, or caught up with
loops of ribbon. The materials are generally plush,
velvet, or plush gauze, broch6 satin or foulard, cash-
mere or piece lace. A quantity of lace is used on
some, and the newest kind is a Henri 111. lace
of ecru shade, somewhat resembling flat Venetian
point. The lace tea gowns, both in black and
cream, are very much worn with a coloured lining;
they are long and tight-fitting at the back, with
a flounce all round the edge, and a cascade of lace
and ribbon, or a drapery of the piece lace up the
front. Some are made of two coloured foulards or
satin Merveilleux, a cream or pale colour being over
a darker. The darker shade forms an underdress
with sleeves, while the paler is almost tight-fitting,
open in front, edged with lace, and caught back very
slightly; the armholes are cut very large and pointed,
showing the underdress to some distance below the
waist. This looks well in cashmere and velvet,
printed erpe de Chine and de laine is also used,
ecru silk long cloth, profusely trimmed with lace and
ribbon. White silk, with coffee-coloured lace, is
fashionable for peignoirs and morning jackets, also
nainsook, with deep embroidery and a silken sash of
colour.

BONNETS are much more worn for travelling than
formerly, and this autumn it was a noiceable fact.
They were naat and quiet, and corresponded with the
costume. For country and Scotch moorland wear,
the caps are supposed to match the dress, and ladies'
hatters are constantly receiving pieces of tweed,
tartans, velvet, or serge to make up into Tam
o'Sharters, brimmed hats, soft and light, with rounded
or indented crowns, or deerstalkers. The Tam
oeShanters have a brooch and feathers or rosettes, and
the deerstalkers are ornamented with a twisted veil or
a bow. I may mention that five-eights of a yard of
single-width material is sufficient for one of these caps
or hats. The straw sailor hats are trimmed with two
twisted handkerchiefs, or very full, high bows of ribbon
in front. The rush Zulu hats, trimmed with coarse
ecru lace and a tuft of dried grass, artificial mush-
rooms, or a bow of brown velvet, are again to be
seen for garden or tennis wear. Some very becoming
and dainty hats have been seen lately of gathered
muslin and lace or washing cord. One shape resembles
a sun bonnet with a flounce round the front and
curtain, the former being turned back on to the
crown, with a large rosette of cut ribbon to one side.
Plaiting's of coloured ribbon are much worn for
travelling instead of collars and cuffs or frilling. The
colour depends on individual fancy and on the tone of
the dress.

Soma new gloves, recently introduced, have the
hands of kid and the rest of fancy woven silk, the
wrists being pointed and the mitten joined on; they
are to be had in black and colours. This would be
suitable for short gloves, which are now almost useless
to the owners. Quaint, old-fashioned clasps and
buckles are worn on the waistbands, a little to one
side, and also in front of the high-crowned hats; and
the folding parasol handles, so long out of fashion.
are being used again.

THE writer of the article from which we quote also
makes some observations on the interesting subject
of bridesmaid's costumes. We make the following
extracts: White muslin costumes trimmed with lace,
principally Valenciennes, have been greatly worn,
some over colour, with coloured sashes, others all
white. Flounced skirts, with three or four gathered
flounces, the upper one commencing at the waist, are
fashionable. The beautiful soft Organdie printed
muslins, with their delicately-tinted leaves and flowers,
trimmed with tinted lace, and finished off with long
loops and ends of coloured ribbon velvet, are suitable
for bridesmaids beyond childhood, and also the deep
flounce lace forming the entire skirt of the dress,
which is such a favourite fabric for ball and
evening toilettes; batiste usually forms the founda-
tion. Ecru lace, with poppy-red velvet, is essentially
an autumn mixture, and I will describe a dress com-
posed cf it. A full flounce of the lace !caching to

I With I u qvtarter aye yetra.
• •