The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1884-05-31 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

THE change from flaring to summer has been con.,
surnated by the recelit sunny weather, and in
accordance with the necessities of the adracing
season, the usual changes of fashion are in pre gress.
Describing the novelties just introduced by an
eminent London house, a writer in the Queen says the'
establishment in question is making some pretty
jackets of black gros grain, with cape-like sleeves from
the shouldere? of plaited French lace, which falls to
the joint of the elbow. The back is cut in one piece,
and at the edge of the basque is a " fan" of wide lace
flouncing- arranged in a clever way, The front is
scalloped at the edge, and outlined with cut-jet beads,
and is fUrther adorned with a fichu of lace, gathered
on the shoulders and reaching the centre of the chest,
where is fastened a large jet clasp. From this fall
two long ends of lace, which are loosely festooned on
tPe hips and: joined to the fan at the back. On either
shoulder, and over the lace, is an epaulette of faceted
beads. For young ladies' wear the jacket-cape is
novel and very pleasing, cooler than the one,. more
shapely than the other, with all the appearance of
both. Among a number of costumes we particularly
admired one of nun's cloth of the new "lizard" green
with drapery spotted with crimson chenille, aufi
trimmings of velvet to match ; the drapery
was long and pointed, and was, carried across the
front of the skirt, it was fastened high on the right
hip, and finished with velvet bows. The bodice was-
exceedingly pretty, with coat lappels of velvet and, a,
folded chemisette of the spotted material, below which
was a narrow corselet waistcoat with shaded red pearl.
buttons; the tight-fitting sleeves had folded cuffs, and:
pointed revers of velvet. There were. also some ex—
quisite materials of finest nun's cloth. embroidered'
with crescents of pale blue silk, surrounded with open—
work rings, and of softest tulle with silken foliage and
crimson berries outlined with tinsel thread. For.
garden parties, tennis and boating, a cotton crepe do'
Chine was very cool-looking and smart. In, many
pale-tinted stripes, made up with plain material, or
woven with coloured silks, this fabric is useful and
new, and we are assured that it washes perfectly, re—
taining its crinkled appearance, which- closely resem—
bles crape.

BALL gowns of lace, of tulle, or of gauze are almost
exclusively worn by married ladies as well as maidens,
the bodices alone being made of satin, of velvet, or
frig brocade. These are either out round or pointed
back and front, and are mostly devoid of trimming,
with the exception of a beaded border or berthe of
flowers—not always artificial, by. the way, for we
recently saw a most lovely garniture de corsage of.
variegated foliage and fern-fronds, mixed with the
blooms of the scarlet ixia and arranged by an artist's
hand on a bodice of sea-green satin. The skirt of
this ideal dress was of pure white tulle—thefront of -
narrow flounces, the back of long loon folds, spotted.
with sea-green chenille. Across- the front were •
festooned loops of satin ribbon, finished on
each side' with a bouquet of natural flowers..
On one shoulder were humming birds poised
over the scarlet blossoms. Here is another
ball gown which pleasingly dwells in bur mind
—a skirt of amber satin veiled in amber tulle, a
scarf drapery of Indian creamy white gauze, em—
broidered with palm leaves in gold. This was tied in
a loose knot on the right side of the skirt, where was
also a cluster of feathers, shaded from yellow to brown.
The pointed bodice was low at the neck, and the
berthe of gold embroidered gauze. The shoulder
sleeves were of feathers, with epaulette chains of gold
beads, a row of which outlined also the edge of the
rounded basque. A pouf of feathers in the hair and
a gilded palm leaf carried in the hand completed this
original toilette.

ONE of the most popular of the various seasonable
forms of outdoor recreation is lawn-tennis; and a
great variety of costumes have been devised for the
comfort as well as the adornment of the fair con-
testants. A correspondent of the Queen suggested the
following as a suitable dress for a girl of seventeen
with fair hair: A white and blue cashmere or flannel
striped for the petticoat; plain white tunic draped
above; a loose bodice sewn to the tunic, and the colour
introduced on collar and cuffs. Silver braid is an
addition on the cuffs and collar. Bege and nun's
cloth are good wearing materials. A fashionable
sleeve for lawn-tennis dresses has a puff at shoulder
and elbow. Whatever the hat is, it must be well
secured on the head. It is fashionable now for girls
to wear the caps with peaks that boys don at cricket,
and one in blue would be most becoming with the
dress I have described. Jockey caps are also worn.
Good white and plain coloured woollen stuffs are
always the best for tennis. The bodice and skirt
or tunic should in no case be distinct, or else during
the game they are apt to show a vacuum. Great ease
and freedom is the chief desideratum. The Turkish
embroideries are largely utilised as tunics on white
dresses for tennis; but for dresses intended for tennis
parties, smoke-coloured cashmere or nun's cloth,
trimmed with feather trimming, is also worn. A
black serge, made with a red and black tunic, and red
trimming on the hat, would be effective.