The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1885-02-21 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

Tits Queen, in its London fashion article this week
says: Bodices quite distinct from the skirt are be-
coming more and more the fashion. One of the
newest we have come across of late was made in fine
diagonal cloth. The design was original; the idea of
the basque had been borrowed from a Highland
doublet; it formed a series of double tabs cut in a
rounded point, one falling over the other, and bordered
with gold cord and braid. The exceedingly handsome
braiding was carried down each side of the front of
the bodice and round the sleeves to the wrist. The
bodice fitted perfectly, and was finished as only a
tailor-made one ever is. Dressmakers should look
to their laurels, and not allow men to surpass them
in that peculiarly feminine art—dressmaking. A
serge suit made by the same firm was in the very best
quality; there is such a difference in the make of
serge—so much of its durability depends on the tex-
ture. This had a plain bodice and outdoor jacket,
both elaborately braided in black and trimmed with
Astrakan. The skirt was deftly draped, as was a
black satin skirt intended to be worn with a black
gold-'raided jacket, which was arranged with knife-
plaits, the tunic falling in small close folds back and
front.
LADIES who ride and hunt will appreciate a covert
overcoat and a riding jacket. The former was made
of line buckskin cloth, the seams "strapped," a tech-
nical term, which means that a strip of the cloth is
laid outside each seam, and stitched on each side.
The coat is double-breasted, and just comes below the
waist, so that slipped on in bad weather, or for warmth,
it meets the saddle. Over the shoulders it is lined
with oil silk covered with lining silk, which renders
it perfectly waterproof. The riding jacket is made of
fine dark green cloth with gilt buttons, flat and plain.
This also is double-breasted, and opens /ow at the
throat with revers. It has a tolerably long coat-like
basque at the back, which is rounded in front. So
smart and trim is it, that it would answer several
purposes. It would make a good walking jacket, and
with either a satin, silk, or plain woollen skirt, would
look uncommonly well for indoor wear.

IT is by no means so easy, as it would at first sight
appear, to obtain a really becoming hat; but there is
a plethora of choice. The leading shape is the
Toreador, which has a high crown and a narrow
brim. A good example is made of French straw, fine
and soft. It is bound with velvet, and has a large
bow in the immediate front of watered ribbon, with a
velvet edge. Another has a green bird's head and
wing, with gold claws in front. The positive Toreador,
however, has large full rosettes, two in number, made
of hackle feathers, edged with black. These have a
mossy, soft effect.

OCCASIONALLY the brown Toreadors have coloured
tufts. Very stylish is a red velvet hat, with a large
arum lily in jet placed in front, for the jet looks well
on the red. All shades and all colours are blended
with black velvet. The fashion for high hats has no
doubt come in since the hair has been worn high.
The half-boat shape is a good one; it is generally
trimmed with piece velvet on the cross, or the hackle
feathers are applied on this and other shapes in the
form of a butterfly. Another novelty in hats are
those covered with velvet in points, turning down in
folds from the crown. The Beefeater is made now
in black velvet, the crown rather larger than hereto.
fore, the brim cut in battlements and bordered with
beads. White birds are placed on plain black hats;
also a cluster of three birds, Ficelle hats, trimmed
with brown velvet, made with Tam o'Shanter crowns,
the edges beaded, are also new.

BUT now with regard to bonnets. There is the
Olivia, formed entirely of flowers, orchids being the
latest idea: it has no strings. Small bonnets, with
plaited crowns made in gold, are covered with gold-
beaded tulle, and are very short at the back, so that
the hair shows. A black tulle and jet bonnet has an
edge of beads, and Is finished off at the back with a
crescent-shaped piece, bordered with beads. Other
new velvet bonnets are composed entirely of cross-
cut folds of velvet; a Rood example of this style is
in smoke-coloured velvet with beaded flowers.

SOMEI becoming caps are made of ficelle silk lace,
worked in pearls, often interblended with plaid scarves
and ribbons. Small toques are also made of these
plaid scarves. For leaving the theatre a becoming
arrangement of a black lace scarf is bordered with
beads; it forms a point over the forehead, and hangs
in two long ends at the back, and, if considered more
becoming, these ends can be tied beneath the chin.

SOME quite novel hats and bonnets are exhibited,
which give good ideas on forthcoming French fashions
in millinery. The hats are of very fine straw, in new
colourings, and the chief trimming consists of ex-
ceedingly wide gauze ribbon, striped with silk—an old
fashion revived, for such ribbons were in vogue half a
century ago. The form of the hats is still high, the
crown being of much more importance than the brim.
The trimming is arranged in front, and is likewise a
salient feature. One example is of pale lichen-green
straw, the coronet brim turned up with dark-green
velvet, a folded band of the same round the high
crown; in front an embroidered gauze bow, and three
shaded ostrich tips, combining cleverly the colouring
of the gauze and velvet. Another hat is of gold straw
intermixed with green velvet. The up-turned brim
consists of alternate rows of velvet and straw. Striped
gauze ribbon in faint shades of pink, red, and yellow,
together with a high aigrette of sparkling gold and
chenille wire, form a most effective ornament.

THE bonnets are equally novel, and are likewise in-
tended for carriage or fete wear. One model is a
combination of. sage-green velvet, striped gauze, and
silk ribbon; the flowers are heath and maidenhair
fern in velvet and chenille—quite novel. Gold lace,
scarlet silk poppies, and black velvet, combine to
form another most stylish bonnet; a third being of
bugled leaves, French lace, and velvet moss-roses of
rich salmon-colour. The strings, of ottoman ribbon
and lace, are very long, and form a dressy addition,
the lace being gracefully draped on the ribbon. A
black lace bonnet is always useful, and this model is
one that could be worn with almost any style of
costume.

SOME tea gowns in jonquil broch4 satin and piece
Valenciennes lace are also being made. The style is
Watteau, as there is a wide plait at the back, and the
lace is arranged as a bag plastron, which is kept in
place with a girdle of large pearls and tassels ' that
match the satin in colour.

A WEDDING order just given out comprises brides-
maids' dresses which are original. The petticoats are
red velvet with quite a narrow kilting at their edge;
over this is a delicate tone of biscuit cashmere, in the
form of a long tunic arranged in a unique style with
a series of broad knife plaits from the top, so that
they spread out in fan fashion from the front of the
waist; round this tunic is a band of gold and silver
lace. The bodices are of the jacket form, with cuffs
of the red velvet, and plastrons of Esse and velvet.
Among the bride's evening dresses is .a pale pink plush
skirt, with an upper one of blue br3ch6 equally light
in tone; it is made with a baby bodice. A dressing
gown was made in blue cashmere trimmed with
cream; it had a new sort of Watteau plait, viz.,
plaited at the neck, but below the waist it formed a
puff, and was invisibly gathered, so adding to the
fullness of the skirt.
SOME embroideries are worth noting. They are
used principally for the front of dresses. For example,
a black satin ground, with large poppies worked in
tine silk, and so true to nature they seem to be painted
rather than worked, the leaves exquisitely shaded.
A white satin ground had large arums upon it in
pearls and chenille. Another kind is in olive-green
tulle over satin of the same shade, worked in chenille
of a self tone. A dinner gown made of a dark slate-
blue satin, having panels of brocade, with large red
shaded roses of cisele brocade, which looks like terry.
A biscuit-coloured ball gown made of poult de soie was
veiled in deep coffee-coloured lace flounces, and had
coral-tinted ostrich feathers down the sides. A more
costly one was composed of white satin, with white
velvet plush brocade and flounces of pearled lace;
ang another of cream satin, was covered with gold
brocade in tinsel, intermixed with satin. A useful
stylish gown for everyday wear was made in soft
blue foule, with panels 'and drapery of the same,
covered with chenille cubes set close together. A
really serviceable tea gown was made of a soft red
brocaded silk, having Oriental embroidery of many
colours down the front on either side, and on the
cuffs with ruffles of coffee-coloured lace. A thicker
make of brocade in brown had been adapted to a
trained gown, intermixed with old-gold, and accom-
panying it were Sukle gloves and tan shoes. Poult
de soie bodices are coming in again, and they prove
becoming to the figure.

A srscrAurz is also underlinen both in silk and
cotton. There is a new shape for chemises: a crossway
piece of soft muslin comes from the shoulder, and would
seem to enfold the bust, shaded by lace. The night-
gowns have wide cascades of lace carried down the
front, and are slightly gathered at the waist.

A Furs.. GROWN MAN.—A properly-developed, full-
grown man, weighing 154 pounds, ought, according to
Professor Huxley, to consume daily 5000 grains of lean
beefsteak, 6000 grains of bread, 7000 grains of milk,
3000 grains of potatoes, 600 grains of butter, and
22,900 grains of water.
S CATlSTlCS.—According to a table publishedin the
annual report of 1884 of the Estate Agents' Association
of Berlin, the growth of the German capital during the
past 24 years has been remarkable, and is not equalled
by that of any other European city. Indeed, there are
but few, if any, cities of the New World able to show a
similar record. On December 31, 1860, Berlin had a
population of 493,400 souls; at the end of 1884 it had
risen to 1,262,065, increase, 150 per cent. The number
of sites covered by buildings on Oct. 1, 1860, was 9462;
at the corresponding date in 1884, 19,140; increase, 100
per cent. The number of tenements let on December
31, 1860, was 98,364; at the end of 1880 (the figures for
1884 not being yet available), 265,138; increase In 20
years, nearly 200 per cent. The insured value of the
buildings of Berlin was on December 31, 1860,
£24,435,000; on December 31 of last year, £110,850,000;
increase' close upon 850 per cent. The annual rent
paid for tenements let on December 31,1860, amounted
to £2,160,000; On Deedembge §1 3.45 t, 8,820,000; irmesse.
800 per eat

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