The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1884-02-16 00:00:00

-- --GOSSIP ON DRESS.

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I:)ABLIAMENT haling assembled with every prospect
of a most exciting session, the metropolis has re-
arrnmed all its blithest aspects. The number of
tamale/ connected with the legislative and official
bodies ase reinforced by those who appreciated London
society for social reasons; and thus a fashionable con-
course is tereated in which is constant interchange of
courtesies gqes on. Receptitras and balls are events of
every-day life in this gay circle, and what is to be
worn on these occasions is therefore a qusstion of
grave consideration, The Drily 'Yews devotes
a column to the subject of "ball dresses," the
following extracts, from which will interest many
readers :---The prevalence of white. dresses in English
ball-rooms has been commented ov °flute, as well as
the large number of black gowns thst appear on the
occasion of a dance. These comments have not in-
vai iably been fa, curable ; yet it is difacult to imagine
the innumerable colours and shades of colours blending
harmoniously without a considerable admixture of
these two negative tints. Nor does any other colour
suit so well the blonde complexion of rs healthy
English girl ; nor set off to better aasrantage, by
artiEcial light, the olive tones in the colouring of a
brunette, always supposing that the blood circulate°
behind one of those transparent skins which, though
not often truly, appear to convey the idea of candour
and open truthfulness. The very newest form of
ball•cl-ess, both for white, black, and 'colours, is the
" ballet," a name which may possibly arouse senti-
ments of horror and distrust in the gentle breasts of
unitiated readers, who might imagine the skirt° in
question to resemble in some respects those of a
stage dancer. Speedily to undeceive such, it is
at once stated that the skirt of the ballet ball-
dress is of the normal length. But over the principal
skirt, which is perfectly straight, falls a series of
others, each some eight or nine inches shorter than its
Immediate neighbour. The last and shortest of these
measures about ten inches in length, counting from the
waist. Each skirt is edged with some rows of narrow
ribbon, and it is perhaps unnecessary to mention that
the style is suited to diaphanous materials only; such
as tulle, gauze, or tarlatan. The bodice is usually
made of some more substantial fabric' such as plush,
satin, velvet, or brocade. At a recent dance a dress
of this kind was worn, the colour of which was pale
bright mauve. The flounces were caught down at the
sides of the skirt with large drooping branches of
lilac, and the bodice was of violet velvet, with clusters
of lilac on the bosom and shoulders. Another ballet-
dress was made of pale-pink tulle, with a bodice of
poppy-coloured brocaded satin, and garlands of poppies
trimming both bodice and skirt. The soft shade of
red known by the name of these brilliant fleld•flowers
is now in great favour for evening wear, and some girls;
with unimpeachable complexions have ventured to
appear in entire dresses of tulle in this somewhat un-
assertive tint, without even the relief of a white lace
tucker.

SATIN ball•dresses enjoy the advantage over tulle or
net that they can afford to be made with perfect
simplicity; and perhaps no style shows to greater
advantege the beauty of a typical Englishwoman of
average height and graceful figure than long plain
folds so deftly managed that they seem to mould
themselves upon the lines of the figure as it moves
and turns. Such a dress on such a woman becomes a
satire upon the strained effects of over elaboration.
It is not often, however, that one sees a gown of such
perfect simplicity. The satin is as frequently fretted
into puffs and fluted into frivolous folds as tulle itself.
It gleams through superposed layers of pearl.
embroidered net, or is almost concealed under flounces
and gathered draperies. A cloudy covering of single
tulle is subject to no reproach of hiding the sheeny
surface, since it has that peculiar effect upon imagi-
nation which makes one think—"lf thus it shines
behind the cloud, how bright it would be were the
covering removed." Such a dress has the floating
veil of tulle fastened here and there with groups of
snowy ostrich feathers. These are mounted on a thin
wire, which is fastened behind the stem of the feather.
By bending the wires, the modiste can impart to the
feathers the exact curves which suit their position on
the dress, and thus give them a softness of effect they
would otherwise lack.

PALE. blue satin is represented in most ball-rooms.
It is usually trimmed with lace of a more or less pro-
nounced tint of coffee colour. Pale blue marabout, as
a trimming, renders the satin even more becoming
than it usually is. Brown marabout, when tastefully
applied, redeems it from any smallest suspicion of
insipidity. One of the most successful dresses of this
class is in a Nile-blue tint of that favourite colour.
The pleated flounce that runs round the edge of the
skirt is, lined with blush pink. Over the whole of the
front lies a web-like drapery of Turkish embroidery
in which gold, pale pink, and blue play the principal
parts, though here and there a touch or two of warm
crimson and golden brown assert themselves, playing
the part of bass to the treble of the lighter tints.
Long ribbons of mingled brown, pale blue, crimson,
and soft pink are placed where they appear to be tying
the folds of the embroidery. The bodice. of Nile-blue
satin, has a pointed waistcoat of Turkish embroidery,
and small sleeves of the same. In lien of lace tucker,
a row of shaded beads, about the size of peas, edges
the top of the bodice.

IN an article on •I London Fashions," the Queen
says that walking costumes of cloth and velveteen will
soon give place to the less weighty material of cash-
mere and fancy tweeds, and tbe comfortable-looking
trimmings cf marabout and fur be replaced by narrow
bands of pinked•out cloth or rows of velvet ribbon,
both of which will be much used on the new gowns
prepared for the coming spring. For example, a
costume of "Rob Roy "cashmere, in minute checks
of black and scarlet, the skirt of perpendicular plaits
In groups of different widths. At the edge of the
skirt, below these plaits, is a flounce of scarlet silk
about four inches deep, arranged in wide box-plaits,
the face of each striped with rows of narrow black
velvet ribbon. The overskirt is draped high on the
left hip, falling in a long point at the right side. It is
caught up by a large cord of scarlet and black chenille,
with heavy tassels to match. The bodice is tight-fitting,
and pointed baz.k and front. It haa a gathered "bag "
basque, graduating in width from the front, over the
hips, narrowing again towards the back drapery,
which consists of a long scarf of the material, grace-
fully looped, and lined with scarlet silk, the lining
bordered with two rows of black velvet ribbon. One
end of this scarf is closely gathered, and fastened to
the point of the bodice by a small black velvet bow',
the other is turned under at the lower edge of the
skirt above the scarlet flounce. There is a loose
chemisette waistcoat of scarlet silk striped with velvet,
with cuffs to match, and a military collar of velvet,
also lined with silk. A black velvet hat, with a smal
bow of Rah Roy silk, and aigrette of black feathers at
one aide, completes this stylish toilette, the mixture
of black and scarlet is perhaps more strictly appro.
prlate wear for winter weather, but individual taste
will doubtless suggest other mixtures and colourings
equally pretty and effective, such as grey cashmere
having small clouded checks, with dark grey silk and
still darker velvet; fawn•coloured checks, with plain
silk and deep mahogany-brown; plum-coloured serge,
relieved with porclean-blue, with plum-coloured velvet
to match ; or green checked material, with deep crim-
son silk and narrow dark green velvet.

ON the subject of millinery, the Queen observes
that the fashionable bonnets are chiefly composed of
plain velvet ornamented with nondescript plumage,
or clusters of shaded feathers. Many are made of
terry or velours tpingle, as it is called, brocaded with
velvet flowers to match the material of the pelisse,
which, if of this handsome fabric, is invariably
trimmed with marabout or heavy chenille fringe.
These luxurious garments may frequently be seen in
various coloured satins of the richest hue and texture,
covered with large blossoms or masses of foliage in
velvet or shaded plush. One of steel-grey had
pattern of magnolias and leaves in tones of bluish.
grey shading to full, deep blue, and was remarkably
stylish with its lining of crimson silk, and trimming of
dark blue marabout mixed with metallic hackle
feathers. The small bonnet, with stiff round crown,
was of the same beautiful brocade; it had a narrow
bandeau of crimson velvet beneath the brim, which
was edged with avow of glistening blue beads; at one
side of the crown was a rosette of crimson plumage
and cockade of hackle feathers. A new shape is ob.
eervable in the best-worn bonnets, which consists of a
shallow indented brim, bent over the centre of the
forehead, like the Mary Stuart cap. It still reta;ns,
however, its becoming and close-fitting a?pearance by
reason of a velvet band which fills in the spar.e next
the hair on either side. Sometimes this baud is to ale
entirely of jot, gold, silver, or variously coloured
beads. We saw a very pretty bcnnet of black velvet
made in this style, with a bandeau of small cut gold
beads. The brim was edged by 3. single row of iet
beads, and the crown adorned with stiff wings of
black and grey, having a tiny aigrette of gilded
feathers and a square clasp of bright gold beads to
match. The strings were of black piece velvetl
with otlrese sf narrow grey velvet ribbon above.
them.

Ws are glad to note here (continues the same writer)
the gradual disappearance of those huge bunches of
feathers and stiff wings, mingled with the heads and
breast plumage of every hind of bird, which have
recently disfigured the fronts of hats otherwise re-
markable for elegance and pod taste and in addition,
are pleased to find that the altogether objectionable
"fashion " so frequently quoted as she last Parisian
mede—the adoption of retitled monkeys, cat's-heads,
kittens, and even mice, as componemt parts of winter
bonnets, hats, and muls—bas signally failed to hold
the fancy of well-dressed English women. The Henri
U. and Henri 111. hats are still popular, though, fos
country wear, the close-fitting toques are much worn,
made of the same material as the ulster or walking
pelisse, together with trim-looking felt hats, with
and t I
lac
nna led-up
ahc,aleollreeoptntoe.mrspatotrnhe
The hieh-crowned French hate
utaspnearlliengtrcirmowmnesd
:fj evtaorrfemg
aetteadl c
are of velvet, tho brims very shallow at the back, and
edger' with a ma of beads. A torsade el folded velvet
surrceeds the erown, fastened here and there with
fancy-headed pins in steel or oxydisod metal. These
little pins see also to ke seen pieecing the coronet
fronts of beanets, , and, fixing the velvet bow placed
beneath tha chin. Frequently these velvet-covered ,
hats are quite untrimmen, having merely a cluster of
three feathers d /a Prince de Galls- upstanding in front,
held together with a small bow of gold tinsel rib bor
or a buckle of coloured beads.
UNri.ER the heading "Freaks of Fashion '' the Queen
has an interesting article commenting upon the various
wh4neicalities in vogue from time to time. The
weelter says:
D:amond buckles for the arm (the diamonds being
the rage for buttons so recently gone out. Even the
principally Rhine stones) are picturesque, end rival
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vest which the tailor made garments of to-day demand
tarvs hld tcgetber with buckles
are in some ins
instead of buttons. But the prettiest freak of fashion
Is to bays the outer dreps, the polonaise held in its
Place over the vest with three straps, each fastened
with a buckle. New York belles seem to have gone
,mad on.the satigat ofimaglaikir, 0,94 ve,e, beer p! one
made. of whit v nkts, a f ea.bri iiai.tcuat ma 5O
marabouts —uwdered with grOd and sliver, and many
covered with steal beads to eesemble armour, gold sm..
broidery, and the no.


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firm. Medium and Low ar plentiful, and prices
in buyers' favour. French ant linerican remain
without alteration. There is no alteration to report
in White Clover, Alsviie or Trefoil. French Italian
in buyers' favour. Perennials weak.
I bruar ; 13th, 1884.

STOURISRID GS an DISTRICT SUND.IY SCIIf)OL
UNION.—A series of meetings, in connection with
the re,•ently formed union, were held Ott Februiry
9th, 10th, and 11th. On Satu-day evening a de-
votional meting was held in tie Baptist school-
rJoin, and on Sunday aftereo tn united gatherings
of scholars were held in the Wesleyan Chapel,
StourbrAge, and the Temperance Hall, Lye.
Henry Denby, Eq., Deputaion from the Sunday
Scho 1 Union, addressed the child: en at Stourbrldge,
and the Iio•VS. J. Tucker, A. Hilditcb, and John
Taylor, at the Lye. The children were most
orderly and attentive, and Lieir interest in the
speakers was well sus:ained throughout. Oa
Sunday evening, a ithited Communion service was
held in the Cengr, gatioual Chapel, Stourbridge,
when Mr. Denby delivered a most telling address to
the teachers present. On Monday evening a public
meeting was held in the New Connexion Chapel,
Stourbridgo, Mr. H. Newman, president of the
, union, in the chair. Mr. Denby gave an address on
the works; sevral of the subsequent speakers bore
tet-timony to the genial and practical character of
Mr. Denby's addresses, and acordial vote of thanks
to Mr. Denby brought a most successful series of
meetings to a close.

"Rou-oti ON Itarrs.''—The Thing desired fo anduti
last. Ask chemists, grocers or oilmen, for Rougha
on Rats It clears out rats, mice, beetles, roaches
flies, bedbugs, insects ground moles, &e. 7i d. nod
Is lid boxes.

BUCRUPA.BIA."—A new, quick, complete cure
for all urinary affections, (smarting, frequent diffi-
cult) and kidney diseases 4s. At Druggist, London
agency, No 1, King Edward Street
A recent writer in our local papers has wisely
observed that "one of the follies of the age is to buy
dear Wines and Spirits." Another folly is to
suppose that buying from those who make the
largeit return of duty is buying.; them in the
cheapest market. The Merchant who pays duty
u2on thousands of gallons pays in exact proportion
to the retailer clearing a single cask. A great profit
must be gained to cover enormous expenses of large
business premises, cost of advertising, and an
allowance of
_profit to the Agent, greater in
many instances than taken by them in the respect-
ab'e Merchant. To buy cheap is to buy where but
•
one profit is made, and we cannot better illustrate
our argument than by pointing out the way in
hich our townsmen, Messrs. J. Rutland and Soil, ot
63, High-st, have opened up the trade. We have
no hesitation in saying that 25 per cent, is now
saved by their bringing the produ.ler and the con-
thner together, over to prices paid a few years
age, and a trial will fully bear out our assertions
Dudley Herald, December 24th, 1881.
New ALHAIMILI MEd:MM.—On Thursday night,
the "Billee Taylor" Comic Opera Company opened
here for three nights to a very indifferent house.
The opera, is full of interest from beginning to end,
the rouga are capital and are ably reedered, and the
choruses are exceptionally goad. The principal
characters were admirably sustained by Messrs.
Pey:en, J. T. Macruill n, Claude Bathurst, F.
Williams, and J. Netherwood, and Misses Kate
Brahain, Julie St. George. Weitley, and Mrs.
Longinore. The song by Mr Macmillan "Eliza"
was decidedly the hit of the opening night, and he
was enthusiastically encored The chorus by the
charity girls "Charity bob" was also deservedly
applauded, and the whole of the opera was given in
a thoroughly spirited manner which reflected tin
highest credit on the manager. To-night (Satur-
day), this excellent company finishes here, an I we
trust that their efforts will meet with the patronage
and success they so well deserve. Next week
Frank Montague's "Uncle Tom's Cabin" Company
will appear here. _ _

DitusiczNNEss.—At the Police Court yesterday,
before Colonel Fletcher, Messrs. H. 0. Firmstone,
and T. D. Thomas, Thomas Cartwright was charged
with being drunk in the public streets on the 9th
inst. P.C. Chare proved the case. Fined 2a 6d
and costs.— Thomas Beddall was charged with
being drunk on the 5.h inst, at the Lye. P.C.'s
Chars and Davis proved the case. Finsd 2s 6d and
costs,—Francis Allen was charged with being drunk
in the public streets on the Bth inst. P.C. Gwilliam
proved the case. Fined 2s 6d and costs.—Saniuel
Bailey was charged with being drunk on the 9th
inst, at Wollaston. P.C. Cartwright proved the
case. Fined 5s and costs.— Joseph Jones wal
charged with being drunk at Cradley, on the 10th
inst. P.C. Chars proved the case. Fined 2s 6d
and costa.—William Bosley was charged with being
drunk at the Hayes. Felix Smith preyed the case.
Fined 2a 6d and costs. William Whitmore was
charged will being drunk on the %Al just, at Blake-
down. P.C. Holloway proved the cape. Fined
2s Gd and costs.—Thomas McCarthy was charged
with being drunk at Bellbrought,n on the 14th
int. P.C. Wallace proved the case. Fined 2s 6d
and costs.

HIGHWAY OFFENCE.—Joseph Wright was sum-
moned for not being in such a position as to have
control over his horses and timbor carriage on the
7th mat, at Oldawinford. P.C. Eaves proved the
ca-e, and said defendant was fast asleep on the
timber carriage. Defendant pleaded guilty, and
was fined 5e and costs; in default 14 days.
Cent= To ANIMALS. William Webb was
charged with cruelly illtrsating a horse by beating
it and kicking it on the 30th tilt, at Oldswinford.
Mr. John Brettlebanks proved the ca.e. and said
fendant was in change of three horses. He kicked
the one most violently several times and ale.) struck
it with a stick. Defendant add he did not hurt the
horse. Finek2s 6d and costs.

Assauer.—Henry Smith was charged with as-
saulting James Heathcock at Oldswinford, ou the
10th. Complainant said he was going up the
street, when he met defendant who commenced to
abuts.] him and used bad language, and struck him
several times, knocking him down. Albert Perry
was called for complainant and said he did not see
any blows struck. The case was adjourned.
FALSE PRETENCES. George Saunders was
charged with obtaining two watches, the propel t v
of Edward Lane, at Wollaston, by false pretences,
in the month of August last.—A.nn Lane said she
was the wife of Fdward Lane and resided at
Wollaston. She recollected prisoner coming to her
howe last summer. He said he had come for the
watcher her husband had told him to callfor. She
sail she did not know what he wanted them done
at present for, because they could not very well
spare the money. Prisoner had previously repaired
her husbaud's watch. She handed two watches to
prisoner one of which (produced) was her own.
She gave him the watches because she thought her
husband had sent him for them ;if she had not have
thought that she should not have given them to him
Prisoner wanted to kno.v who was going to pay him
for repairing the little watch as it had cost him
9s.—Edward Lane, gardener, Wollaston, identifi..d
the other watch as his property. He never told
prisoner to go to his house and ask his wife for the
two watches,—Allan Pearson, paanbraker, New
Street, said the larger watch was pawned at his
shop, on the 11th August for 5s by risoner. On
this 18th August he pledod the ~mall watch for
8s 61. On the 18th December tae watches were
handed to P.S. Oakcy whosai i he r:ceiv,d tne
prisoner into cu.tody on the 11th Fehraary, (,n his
leaving Stafford goal. He re tsl the warrant to
him an I prison( r ssid '• I did not obtain them '
under false pretenees." On the 18th December '
the watches %ere banded to witness in the pres etc
of Mr. Pears ,n. Prisoner was committed to take
his trial at the next Wurcester Sessions,
CHAUG4 AGIMIT A SOLICITOR —Alfrel Clarke
Morris, so.icitor, was charged with having on the
30 h .t.u.4ut by falsi pretences, obtained from James
Taylor the sum of XI 10s, the inen.y of Dudley
tlih..lr Miller C“rbet defeuded.—Dudley 11111
said he was a horse nai maker at the Lye. On the
3let August last he was autntnolied at the S:o tr-
bridge Police Court fur an asault and was tin al.
erisoner was his soiiciter and defen,led him, He
was fined lOs and costs and no: having the money
he was locked up. Befoi e go.ng to Stourbrilg •he
tent some work lis had done to llalesowen.
James Taylor was to receive the money for the
work. He directed hini to teeeive the money on
the morning he uatue to the Cilia. On the follow-
ing miming his wife pail the fine and he was re-
leased. On being released h aw prisoner and
asked him what he was goin.4 to do with the zu .u 5.57
he had received [ruin lat or. lie sdd we will not
argue in the street ; to low me down to the °dice
and I will pay you —James Ta)lor said hi lived
at the Lye it'd was a horse hail maker. On the
31st A te,nist hi received 30s for piosecutor from a
man at Lial-sowai. Prosecutor told him to go for
the money in the morning. He went to prisoner's
h 'use that day aboai. 5 o'clock in the afternoon.
E•izabeth Smith was with witness. He saw
prisoner and toll hitn he hail come to ate abou.
e.'uttey Hill, tiey were all lucked up, and to d
him he h git some money of theirs and h ilonrue
to seeif he eoul i to get them re'eased.He said "You
pay the mon y over to rue and as soon as I have
hwa,ti
tit:: will g up and see if I can get them eut."
Prisoner wrote souaet jug ou a slip of paper.
oaper. gave prisoaer the money 303, and signed a
lowrasttiethesutrOe:
Illteleo447ae:lPl:liff:°:ll4P‘liiiiiit)yrt:ic.ojsliriednstiCelel:lteYducting Mr.
business'"rius was rea over to witness. lie
aas wi ii Dudley Hill the following morning when
,hey znA prisoner. Prosocutor asked hint about
the money and he said he di I not want to argue in
t. e ,tre,t, but. it they went down to his ottic-.1 he
would i..ay it. He went to the office but lie d:d not
pay thi money and said that his charge iv,,3 two
neas and fhe lid na pay the other 123 e ,
,JUI'l 1113 kt it Z; 12 —IIIII, recalled, I paid prisoue:
a guinea for may defence before the hearing of the
a4diell4E4 th. ao La She

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