The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1885-08-22 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

THE following is from that excellent &Aron
journal, Le Folle,t : We are very glad to see among
some of the most fashionable couturieres a disposi-
tion to economise with regard to some of the unne-
cessary expenses of various toilettes; this is quite a
step in the right direction, and will be a gain to
ladies, while the dressmakers themselves will not lose
by it, as the cost of a dress being lessened, without
detracting from its effect, their customers will be
enabled to have a greater variety. A few months
ago many dressmakers were making quite inexpensive
woollen dresses, mounted on silk foundations, costing
much more than the materials by which they were
hidden—a totally useless piece of extravagance. Many
of the leading modistes have discontinued this; and
though silk is still used as a foundation, for nothing
hangs so softly, or is so pleasant in wear, a very
ordinary quality, such as taffetas, foulards, and many
others, answer every purpose. When a portion of
the under-skirt is disclosed by the tunic, &c., this,
and this only, is covered by a better material;
for instance, a dress open to disclose a panel of velvet;
the whole of the part that could possibly be shown of
the under-skirt would be velvet, the remainder would
be silk, or might be a good alpaca—a material much
liked for the purpose. This would be a great saving
when velvet was concerne3, but when velveteen is
used instead, the plan would be very far from econo-
mical, for velveteen is so thoroughly useful, as well as
extremely fashionable, that if the whole skirt were
made of it it would form an under-st irt for an un-
limited variety of tunics, polonaises, and over dresses
of all species of materials.

THERE is much variety shown in the toilettes of this
month for watering-place and country wear ; for cool
days there is an immense number of woollens, fancy
and plain, corEbined with silk or velveteen; complete
toilettes also of silken materials, such as moire, satin,
faille, faille Francaise, Ottomans, and gros grains,
two, or even more, of these being used for a dress;
wlaile complete costumes of velvet and vslveteen are
among the leading modes.

IN thinner materials, also, there is an unlimited
choice—veilings, canvas &amine, =slims, zephyrs,
batistes, linen, crepon and crepeline, foulards,
surahs, sateens, and a host of others whose
names alone would occupy the space given to our
article. One of the most novel fashions for such
dresses is the combination of two patterns in one
costume; for instance, stripes for the skirt, spots or
floral designs for the upper part. These dresses are
of washing material, and, are very effective for sea-
side wear.

ME thin materials, such as muslin, are well
adapted to the full round skirts, and are generally
edged with lace headed by a few narrow tucks. Such
dresses have generally the bodice unlined, and made
with as few seams as possible, those on the shoulders
and under the arms sufficing; tho badice is drawn to
the waist under the ceinture corselet, or sash; the
muslin is cut below the waist and worn under the
skirt, the band of this keeping it in place. An under-
bodice of silk, fine linen, or some material with a
little firmness is worn, and it is necessary that this
should fit well.

BGDICES with long points worn over tunics forming
small paniers at the front and sides, and long and
wide scarf ends at the back, are much liked in many
materials, but should not be adopted by anyone at
all inclined to embonpoint._

SASHES of soft silks and other yielding tissues are
very fashionably worn round the waist itself, where
they are drawn in many folds, and tied at the back or
side; the bows and ends are spread to their full
width; these " Bebe " sashes are worn under the
Figaro vests also, and serve to keep the loose lace or
muslin fronts, so often worn with these, to the shape
of the waist.

THE fashion of leaving skirts open at the side to
show an under-skirt, the upper one being full length
and draped, whether raised or not, in a variety of
folds, is very much admired. The dress is always
completed by a jaquette and waistcoat, or an open
bodice over plastron, the material of the under-skirt
being raised for the plastron, or the waistcoat. Many
of these facons, which are the supreme height of
fashion, have the great advantage of being convenient
and useful also. The one just mentioned, for ex-
ample, if the open skirt and bodice have a second
under-skirt and waistcoat, or two dresses to the one
under-skirt, while representing two complete toilettes,
takes little more than tiff) rooln of one in our travel-
ling baggage.

FOR travelling, softly driping and uncrushable
tissues are more than ever required, and among these
no material is more fashionable than orepe de Chine;
it is also one of the most elegant and agreeable in
wear, and is now made in every variety of colour; it
combines most effectively with moire or satin, though
many other silks are worn with it. An unlimited
quantity of lace and jet is worn with these black
dresses if at all of a smart character.

A.LMOND and verdigris are very fashionably worn;
light shade of the former is much liked for trim-
mings, as it harmonises with so many colours: with
pale blue it has a charming effect. Appliquo em-
broideries of gold or silver are very effective On almond
also. Beseda and mauve are both colours that have
returned to fashion this season.

LIGHT colours are by no means confined to silks and
similar tissues; the velvet and velveteen bodices,
either casaquins or some variety of veste, such as the
Figaro, Bolero, and Senorita, &c., that are so fashion-
ably worn, and so useful with a variety of skirts, are
often made in bright colours, such as reseda, light
moss-green, sapphire, sky, mid-blue, &c. These
corsages are most useful for travelling; they can be
worn. to brighten up two or three different drosses
for the table d'hotc, and are also very desirable
over thin dresses on cool days; they take so little
room, also, that one or two will certainly be
found in the trunks of every fashionable woman
leaving town.

AltoNo the darker shades chosen for the purpose,
and made into short vestes, or fitting cwaquins, are
several browns—golden, coffee, seal, and bronze—
myrtle, two or three shades of moss and olive green
and peacock, dark and mid navy blue, royal blue,
claret, Burgundy, ruby, Humboldt, damson, and
Lorraine prune. All these shades will be fashionable
during the autumn and winter, also for complete
dresses of velveteen and velvet.

DINNER DRESS of mousseline de sole, lace and velvet.
Plain skirt of white silk, covered by another of white
mousseline de sole, with a design of pink roses. A lace
tunic full length, with scalloped edge, commences a
little on the left of the waist; it is gathered as far as
the left hip, where it is draped ; it is them mounted
in full pleats, hanging straight at the back, and full
enough to allow the scalloped edge to be drawn up
to the waist on the right hip, and turned back in a
cascade fold, leaving a space between it and the
straight line of the tunic, where it commences.