The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1883-07-28 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

IN London last week, en event which had been
antielpat,d with much interest by the fashionable
world was the fife given under royal patronage at the
Fisheries Exhibition in aid of funds to complete
the building of an English church in Berlin. The
weather was per'ect when many thousand people
pass.,l into tha Horeenitural Gardens between nine
o'ekek and midnight. In the galleries of the Fisheries
Exhibition there were no nerial aurae:Anna until the
grand promenade was reached, a• d there a dense
crowd was aessmbled during the whole evening. The
splendid band of the German Guards were stationed
at one end, while a company of hand-bell ringers were
at the other extremity of the long promenade; but the
centre of attraction was the long refreshment stall,
laid out with every description of goods to tempt the
appetite, presided over by H.R.H. Princess Chris-
tian, with a bevy of attendants. The Princess
wore a white lace and muslin dress ; some dia-
monds in her hair, and a scarlet bow, which was
the distinguishing badge of all the ladies at this stall.
The Princess must have poured out many hundred cups
of tea with her own hands to the eager customers,
and, as it was written up in large type that any re-
freshments were charged at the uniform price of
2s. 61., the public were not alarmed by the possibility
of any exorbitant sum for a cup of tea, or any of
the delicacies which were offered. H.R.H. the
Duke of Connaugbt and Her Royal Highness the
Duchess of Connaught were behind the same buffet,
and the Duchess, like the rest wore a simple white
dress. In the Chinese Court a great crown surrounded
the Tea House, where the Chinese Ambassadress,
herself in national costume, had their royal high-
nesses the Duke and Duchess of Albany as able assist-
ants. The Chinese Anabassadress's robe was of a
rich purple, with gold embroidery. H.R H. the
Duchess of Albany wore white, with a few red flowers
placed very low on one side of the hair. H.R H. sat
behind is tea urn where the very finest specimen
cup of Chinese tea was to be enjoyei, while a brisk
trade was doing all round in various articles of
Eastern manufacture. The Countess of Westrncre-
land, in green satin and white lace, was among the
assistants; and the Hon. Mrs. Richard Moreton, in
waiting on the Duchess of Albany, wore dark crimson
satin and bla .k lace. Only a narrow passage separ-
ated this stall from a table covered with flowers,
where H.R. H. Princess Mary and the I)uke of Teck
did a brh.k trade, Princess Mary making no exorbi-
tant charge for her choice bouquets or single flowers,
and handing them to the purchasers with her kindly
smile, The Prince and Princess of Wales did not
arrive till nearly ten o'clock, and soon after the
princes-, took her place among the saleswomen, with
•he Hon. Mrs, Arthur Hardinge in waiting. The
princess, and all the ladies near her, wore white
dresses, with natural flowers at the throat. Her royal
highness's hair was dressed in her usual style, with
small diamond stars. No one grudged 55., 10s, or
even a guinea, for flowers sold by the princess, and by
one o'clock the flower stall was nearly cleared out.

AT a recent fashionable wedding in Paris it is noted
that the bride wore white satin covered entirely with
Brussels lace, draped with bouquets of orange blossoms;
a tulle veil enveloped her figure. The bride's mother
was in iron-grey satin, with broch6 tablier ; the young
ladies of both families were in pretty striped and
flowered mu4ins, and in slight striped silks. One, for
instance, was in striped pink rraplin, and a Watteau
hat, laden with roses; another in blue and white silk
with a babe bonnet in white batiste ruched with blue;
a wide blue sash was tied at the side of the waist, blue
stockings, high heeled shoes with large pompons,
elbow sleeves with tan Subde gloves, large blue parasol
painted in water colours, with a large bouquet of
fib were.

THE Jersey bodices in cream are worn with light
flannel, nun's cloth, and foulard flounced skirts, for
river boating, tennis, and other purposes (remarks the
Queen, in an article on London Fashions). Navy blue
and light blue will also be popular with cream skirts.
As they are made in three or more sizes, they are
supposed to fit most figures. There is a tendency,
however, among many young ladies to adopt loose
fronts to their gowns. It is not a generally becoming
style, though it does not look amiss on a slight figure.
In black cashmere, the fashion is particularly popular,
and there is a large black velvet ribbon bow tying
the collar loosely just below the throat, and
another at the waist. In Surah, in lace, and
in soft It.dia muslin, these full fronts are
arranged. Many of the country ano seaside costumes
are made with them, the latter more appropriately
than the former, as they bear a resemblance to the
sailor's loose shirt. Sometimes the fulness is arranged
in two puffs, terminating lower down, in paniers, or
one pai.ier anished off on the hip, with a cluster of
loops and a buckle. The relit of the bodice is tight-
fitting. Some pretty capes are cut open up each side
from the sh-oulder downwards, and tied together, or
laced across with narrow velvet ribbon. A novelty is
to loop up the right side of the tape to the top of the
arna, in small folds, and finish it off with two or three
pompons in the centre of double loops of velvet. A
real rose could be substituted for the pompons, for
garden parties.

A. LONDON contemporary, in an article on "Parish
Fashions" makes some observations on the subject of
eeimomy, from which we quote the following :—I
know Parisian ladies, who, even when they are bent
on choosing ribbons, cravats, gloves—to say nothing of
flowers and millinery—provide themselves beforehand
with a packet of patterns of their gowns, so that none
ot the minutia of dress may be discordant, and no
single article perforce set aside because it harmonises
with nothing. How easy it is to produce variety by
a change of ribbons—a match to one of the several
' morrow, The entire eec can`l3 e atied erup a-
sizing one, now another, of the colours in a cheek, for
in-tance ; and it is only the wearer's dearest friends
who are likely to notice that it is only the same gown
after all. These are the niceties of economy, and the
diversity and novelty for which women of fashion pay
so dearly at the couturier's are obtained by similar
means,

THE same writer observes great deal may be
saved in dressmakers' bills by purchasing ready-made
draped shirts at the draper's. These may be bought
at a most varied scale of prices and in most of the
summer materials. All they require is a bodice to
complete them, the skirt being furnished with tunic,
paniers, whatnot. As may be supposed, every fashion
of form and arrangement is not to be met with. The
principal types are, for cotton and thin silk, narrow
flounces edged with lace and short paniers, or one or
two wide plaited flounces with a band of riboon
velvet sewn upon the edge of the flounce and
another on that of the tunic; for woollens, the
kilted petticoat and deeply draped tunic. Very
large spots, maize on blue, scarlet on maize,
white on black or brown, are preeminent among
the cretonnes; the next rank is held by small running
patterns in two shades of grey, blue, or scarlet, with
white; the Noak's Ark and primer series ;and the
plain cottons with a floral or cashmere bordering. The
new Irmis XV. and R,nais-ance cretonnes, that
might well be taken for upholsterers' wares, and those
figured with medival griffins, fans, umbrellas, and
other Japanese devices, do not enter into the draper's
programme of ready-made goods. Tbey try to hit
the taste of the majority, and, moreover, the more
peculiar designs are not produced in such large quan-
tities or at so cheap a rate. The choice, however, is
pretty large, and it is by no means only the owners of
slender purses who invest in these draped skirts.

THERE is more than one way of completing ready-
made draped cotton skirts. The simplest, of course,
is to buy a piece of the same material and to get it
made up by an ordinary needlewoman or maid, having
a care to obtain a good paper pattern cut to the figure
by a prdessional. When a pleated bloun-bodice is
required, the pleats ought to be tacked down in their
places previously to the pieces being cut. The new
jerseys in stocking-wove cloth are adaptable to ere
tonne skirts as well as woollen ones. They are now
worn here buttoned down the front. Thin vicugna cloth
jaekets suit them better, and these are made to order at
all the drapers' very fairly. To attempt them at home is
perilous, unless the needlewoman be above the average
order. Money spent upon them, however, is money
well employed, as the same bodice may have a uouble
.et of skirts, one in cotton for warm days, another in
veiling for cool ones. These bodices are made with
very short bu,ques, either quite plain or cut up into
turrets. The pleated blouse bodice of woollen stuff is
rele-rved for gowns of the same texture, and such
bodices may be executed without much difficulty at
home. They are seoured at the waist by a belt and
buckle. The polonaise made Jell at the throat, ga-
thered in at the waist beneath a band, ard the tunic
draped in a high pouf behind, is somewhat more com-
plicated. A person cf taste may imagine all sorts of
oretty combinations of colour and matei ial. Pieces of
Uurah containing six squares are amply sufficient, and
the skirt may be a itimple, kilted pettico.t of veiling or
cashmere to match the ground of the silk Some of
these polonaises have very short tunics—hardly more
than paniers—and pouf, so that the coat can be cut
economically according to the cloth. Black silk
skirts that have seen better days may be freshened
up stud worn with polonaise tunics of black Corah
tieured with bright coloured designs; while those of
eAtin naerveilleux will serve as a foundation for pretty
tunics of black or gaudy muslin, strewn with coloured
rosebuds, blue flags, or peonies—the latest of the floral
designs—trimmed with a sufficiency of ribbon leaves
to give brilliancy to the whole.

SENTENCE OF DEPRIVATION ON MR.
- MACKONOCHIE.
On Saturday Lord Penzance gave judgment in the case
of Martin v. Mackonochie which has been before the
public for about fifteen years. The present question
was whether Mr. Mackonochie should be deprived
of all ecclesiastical promotions in the province of
Canterbury. Lie had resigned at the earnest desire of
the late Primate, and the Bishop of London had
appointed him to the curacy of St. Peter's, London
Docks ; and the incumbent, Mr. Suckling, had
been appointed to Sc. Alban's, Holborn' where the
Ritualistic practices had occurred which led to such
prolonged litigation. The defendant had been
admonished by the Court of Arches repeatedly • and
had treated its orders with contempt, and had
been ordered to be committed. It was stated.
on a recent occasion that the late Archbishop
had not suggested the exchange of living.,
but merely the resignation of Mr. Mackouochie.
The case came before the Dean of Arches on its being
remitted by the Judicial Committee of the Privy
Council for a "defini-ive sentence" to be paysed.
His lordship decided that he could not pass a
" perpetual inhibition," but only a sentence of "de-
privation," and said t at he would prepare his judg-
ment.

His lordship, after Mr. Mackonochie had been
called and made no answer, now read his judgment.
He arrived at the conclusi, n that the offotc.; had beF n
duly proved, and he decreed the deprivation of Mr.
Mackonochie from all his ecclesiaitical prnmotions in
the province of Canterbury, which includel his Present
living of St. Peter's, London Docks, and St. Alban's,
Holborn.

The defendant was condemned in the costs. His
lordship signed the order of deprivation, which was
also signed by Dr. Deane, Q.C., and Mr, Jeune,
counsel for the promoter,

SHOCKING DEATH BY A FALL FROM
A LADDER.

In London on Saturday a young man, named
William Morgan, was charged at the Bow-street
Police-court with causing the death of a man named
George Ward.
The deceased was employed at Drury-lane Theatre
as a painter, and was engaged in some work on the
poi tic,) of the theatre on Friday mc•rnine. He was
standing on a laider at a height of about 30 feet from
the ground. The defendant, who is emplcyed by a
du-t contractor, was driving a horse and cart in
Catherine-street, and when opp Aire the entrance of
the theatre it appeared there was a blockage in the
traffic, rendering it necessary to back the cart. In
doing so, the horse suddenly swerved round, and came
in cunt,- ct with the ladder upon wh!ch the deceased
was standing. The man was hurled to the ground,
and was picked up in an insensible condition. He was
taken to the hospital, and upon examination hopes
were entertained that he might recover. He, however,
expired later in the day, and the prisoner was taken
into custody by police-sergeant Taylor, SE. _

The witnesses-to the oc-currence.all appeared to be
of opinion that no blame was attached to defendant,
who was remanded pending the inquest on the body
of the deceased man.