The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1884-12-06 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

The Queen gives the following description of the
dresses exhibited by the leading London dressmakers,
some of whicn indicate decided changes of fashion;
for example, a carriage gown, in art green and amber.
The skirt is made entirely of plain green satin, front
waist to hem arranged in broad box-pleats, all folded
towards the front, and a broad space left in the centre
of the front is filled in with a wide galoon of green
and amber beads; the Princesse bodice and tunic in
one are made of green and amber brocade, showing
the entire front of the skirt, and draped very slightly
at the back, The style is simple, but rich looking,
and calculated to show off a good figure. A velvet
and satin gown has wide panels of jet, and another is
embroidered with jet in large pine pattern. The
steels used in these skirts are diminished in import-
ance, while the mattress cushions are much larger.

A naoww Sicilienne of a plain nut-brown bodice
and tunic was made up over a silver-grey and brown
.shot silk in wide stripes, gathered from just below the
waist; the bodice had a fulling of the striped silk all
round, and it peeped through the slashings at the top
of the sleeve and at the wrist and formed a full
waistcoat. These styles were remarkable rather for
the severity of their outline; but somewhat more so
a greyish blue corded silk, the skirt made in broad
plaits, between those at the back and front and one
side was a wide band of oriental embroidery worked
in gold silk cord and braid and silk of every colour;
the coat bodice, with a waistcoat of the same em-
broidery.

BALL DRESSES have much that is new about them.
One in mustard satin, arranged in indescribable
draperies, was caught down with three scarves of
pink satin, and had variegated velvet leaves and
birds clustered about it, long looped bows of satin
and ribbon velvet being a favourite mode of trimming
now. A dinner gown of brown satin had a square
train lined with pink, and bordered with plaitings of
black lace, above which were two bands of trans-
parent lace galoon let in; it opened over a pink satin
flounced skirt; the sleeves had one deep pink slash-
ing at the side covered with jet, and there was a
jetted collar at the neck of the bodice. A sapphire
velvet had been made up with a tunic of Pom-
padour brocade edged with very long chenille
fringe of every colour in the brocade. A
black and gold brocade opened over a very light blue
silk front, gathered and fastened with white and
yellow jet agrafes. A straw self-coloured brocade had
a front of embroidered cream mousseline de soie,
while a white tulle was covered with pendants of
mother of pearl and silver beads, a long apron of white
tulle being bordered with a galoon of green and white
beads; the back drapery, white tulle, covered with
gold and spangles; white gauze ribbon with green
stripes laid en this skirt had the effect of tucks. For
quite a young lady a white Sicilienste was draped over
a satin petticoat.

Tris bonnets are quite as original as the dresses.
One of red velvet was bordered with Astrakan, and
had a large rosette of black lace in front. A sombre-
coloured velvet displayed a veritable bat. Vert pomme
is the newest colour in millinery, and was applied as
strings on a darker green velvet bonnet. A new hat
is a velvet Jdungarian shape, bordered with Astrakan.
A new oblong fan has an amber handle, and consists
of some seven or eight long ostrich and marabout
feathers.

Tun dresses at one of the leading houses are original
and very elegant, ,especially in the draping, and intro-
duces a apkialite of a coarse, effective, and most
durable serge. One dress made of this had a deep
bordering rouni the skirt and tunic of interwoven
checks of tinsel gold, and this serge is also made with
steel of the same nature. The bodice had a full silk
waistcoat, and drapery of silk just round the waist,
with a stright Zouave jacket over. A green cloth
dress had a deep band of plush round the plain short
skirt, and the plush is sometimes replaced by a
flouncing of fur. The bodice and tunic were hand em-
broidered in silk all over, with red flowers: the skirt
was arranged in three box-plaits very wide, but divided
by a cluster of smaller ones, the wide collar on the
bodice and the cuffs being plush fastened with silver
clasps, the sleeves were gathered at the shoulders and
wrist, and set in a band. A serviceable and stylish
gown is a dark Indian cashmere, the skirt and polo-
naise bordered with Astrakan. A rich black Benga-
line dress was bordered with velvet, which was intro-
duced on the tunic; but the stay bodice was made
with velvet stripes on theback, and laced in front like
stays, but all velvet; in front, from the bust to the
neck, as filled in with gathered silk.

74ARGIE sashes are worn in Paris. A good example
of this was a black velvet skirt arranged in plaits, a
long wide black velvet sash, with ends and loops at
the back, and a short tunic of exquisite jet appliqu6 ;
this was made also with a stay bodice, but the upper
portion was entirely bead passementerie. A dinner
gown was made with a black satin train and brocaded
front, the design coloured sprays on a satin ground,
with a short black tunic over. This style makes up
well for young girls NI ith pink brocade, the rest blacit
lace. The bodice to be worn with this is low and
pointed, having three close-set rows of beads at waist
and neck. The tea-gowns are more and more elabo-
rate; two will serve for examples. A long princess
dress of brown plush, the front gold satin covered
with lace and drops of gold beads. A red silk covered
with black lace openine in front to show a gathered
petticoat of red silk edged with black lace.

Very splendid are the mantles. A short one with
moderate ends in front was made in black velvet,
trimmed with appliqués of jet, narrow at one end,
wide at the other, with fringe depending, these were
laid on the shoulders down the back and sides.
Another similar shape in plush was elaborately
trimmed with chenille fringe. Brown plush coats
and capes are most fashionable. Many of the latter
come well below the waist, with simulated sleeves,
bordered with beaver, and there is no combination
more worn. They are useful for most people, but
particularly for young girls. A close-fitting plush
coat at the back, but loose in front, was made double-
breasted, and reached to the hem of the dress, and
was lined with rich satin.

MANY useful ulsters are made in fancy Cheviot light
waterproof; they are all loose in front, but reachine
to the hem of the dress. The newest check cloth
jackets are also loose in front, and some are braided
handsomely, Hussar fashion.

Musunoom is a favourite colour, and handsome
gowns and mantles are to be had in mushroom plush.
Muffs are made to match every dress. The bonnets
are also much cut up at the back, and high over the
face.

A Novra.vv is also introduced for bridesmaids'
dresses. The materials employed are cloth and
velvet, in such colours as red or grey. The skirts are
velvet.
p2haiteebdo,dfiteneds
adrrae,pmedai3veitpoh
ipnatneealswaintidl !zilnrsvieetwoaf
waistcoats,
laced across, but from the neck to the bust white
cloth is inserted, entirely covered with gold Rus,ian
braid in good designs, and on the corner of the up-
right collar is a monogram in gold embroidery; the
cuffs have the same white gold embroidered cloth
introduced, and nothing can well have a more novel
or distingut effect against the darker shade of cloth.
Tam o' Shanter caps to match are intended to be worn
with them.

A STRIPED brown cloth dress had a band of red
cloth on the bias, inserted round the basun° and
sleeves, with a similar sort of chemisette on the brides-
maids' dresses, but not braided ; this application of a
distinct colour is new. Jackets are often now made
entirely of Astrakan, but their price is deterrent;
others of thick cloth, are edged with Astrakan,
braided down the front, and displaying long cords in-
tended to be buttoned across. A handsome class of
winter mantle is made in red, brown, and green cloth,
having a brocade in fris6 upon them ; they reach to
the edge of the dress, are lined with mink, and bor-
dered with sable.

A GOOD servieeable material for winter dresses is
the vicuna serge, faced in a novel fashion, and knicker-
bocker tweeds are to be recommended for a lighter
dross.

rESNIONING AN EMPLOYE.—A faithful employe had
grown old in the service of a railroad, and at last
became too feeble to work. The President was asked
if the company would not do something for him, as
Vas cry poor. "flow long has he been with 11E,?"
the official inquired. "Over forty years." "Always
did his duty ?" "Never missed a day." "You say
he is very old and feeble ?" "Yes, the chances are
that he will nevcr lcava his bed again." " 11-m, poor
fAlow Of course we must do sompfbing for him.
I'll gi•” him a life miss."
Few of our early reformers had any sense of
humour. My father, however, when once driving one
of them up the mountain, turned to him and said,
Mr.--, if I take you up to the top I shall insist
that you preach me a sermon." "I will," was the
rpply, "and my text shall be, 'And the Devil Taketh
llim up to an Exceeding High, Mountain."
Lady "Before I engage you, I should like to know
what your religion is." Cook: "Oh, ma'am, I always
reels it my duty to be of the same religion as the
Family I'm inl"