The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1884-12-20 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DBES&

THE " gossip " which we select from an article on
"London Fashions' in the Queen is unusually
elaborate: The milliners' shops are very attractive at
this season. The forms of the bonnets are almost as
varied as the fabrics of which they are mad-e. It would
he unwise to state positively which is the latest style or
the most fashionable. Each milliner shows a special
shape she claims to be truly her own, which the pur
chaser quickly adapts to the face it is meant toadorn by
a cunning twist here or a turn given there to the trim-
mings, the feathers, or brim. Foundations are made
of all manner of materiels, of felt, velvet, chenille, or
lace of Berlin wool, kid, or soft fur. The last-named
is now quite the height of la mode, and is certainly
very well worn.

IT is Astrakan fur that is everywhere used on our
jackets, our mantles, and gowns, and so must our
headgear, preforce, be composed of the substance that
fashion affects. The cold weather renders it &ea
aproxs, and in aspect 'tis neatness itself. Bonnets
and muffs of the black Persian lamb are exceed-
ingly stylish. The bonnets, with high crowns
and short turned-down brims, have borders of
round cut jet beads, and black satin strings,
lined with faille. Over the front rests a
large butterfly of gold filigree, thickly encrusted with
jet beads, and placed on a yellow aigrette. The
muffs are, of course, made to match, lined with
yellow satin, the fur being ornamented with a
butterfly fixed at one side, and long loops of black
satin ribbon. Another bonnet had small crimson
birds, while a third had stiff feathers, gilt edged.
gather wide brims and straight high crowns are the
chief characteristics of this winter's bonnets, though
many still keep to the close-fittlng shape, to long and
so justly in favour. A black velvet capOte, ala Marie
Stuart, had a curved open brim of four rows of jet
beads, alternating with small ones of gold. In the
point on the forehead were tiny brown birds on a
background of velvet and lace; the crown was of
velvet, folded lengthwise, and the ribbon strings
crossed on the top. Very uncommon was a mixture
of watercress velvet and faille of dull heliotrope
shade. The bonnet was small shaped, with short cut-
up crown. It was trimmed with a plaited rosette of
green velvet, lined with silk, in the centre a bouquet of
shaded flowers and leaves of great beauty and rich-
ness.

EMBROIDERED velvet was used for the crowns of
several smart bonnets. One was in black, worked with
grey and white silk in rosebuds all over the top. The
coronet brim was of poppy-red velvet, puffed and
veiled with a frill of black lace, having small hanging;
tassels of jet. At the side of the crown was a mix-
ture of feathers—red aigrette, grey stiff wings, and
birds' heads, the strings were of red watered silk—a
charming old lady's bonnet. A bonnet of plain black
velvet, which, though peculiar in shape—something
like an inverted saucepan—was certainly stylish, new
looking, and very becoming. The jockey-like brim
was shaped at the sides, and dwindled away to a point
at the back, where it joined the round, up-standing
crown. There was merely a mixture of ribbons and
feathers placed over the forehead in front.
In velvet of any rich shade, such as sap-
phire, ruby, fir - green, golden - brown, prune,
maroon, or dull red, this bonnet looks specially well,
with the miff lined with satin, and decked out with
bows and with plumage of similar hue. The new hats
here shown have narrow straight brims, and ths
crowns are all spreading or high • that is, large, soft,
and low, of a circular shape, or of conical form, with
flat tops. Feathers have taken the place of the
flowers that once adorned hats, and these, edged and
pencilled with gold, have a pretty and novel effect
Small wings; sometimes birds' heads and claws, are
thus treated and fastened in front, midst the cluster-
ing plumage lf any dark shade that accords with the
large velvet hat. A pleasing creation of reddish-
brown velvet and stiff feathers curved to the front
had the brim of a beefeater bat, and the crown Tam-
o'Shanter in style. The beautiful brown, with its
reflets of gold, was lovely and very artistic.

INDIAN shawls are being utilised for smart gowns.
They are used for the skirts, which are short, plain,
and round, with perhaps a few plaits at the back, and
she drapes them with cashmere of lustreless black,
and trims them with black velvet bands. The skirt of
one of these original costumes had a velvet band
arranged about six inches from its edge, and some six
or eight inches in width. The overskirt was of black
Indian cashmere, with an almost invisible stripe. It
was draped with much taste, and caught up at the
side with some black ribbon loops in short lengths,
which were finished with circles and fringes of silk of
the colours as seen in the shawl. The pointed bodice
of black cashmere had several short tabs at the back,
the very pretty vest was made of the Indian shawl,
two pieces of triangular shape, with the straight ends
joined down the front, fastened close from the throat
to the waist. The cashmere was folded twice over
the chest, and the points, turning back, showed the
lining of velvet, and met in the centre of the bust
The cuffs were of pieces of shawl, and had velvet
revers at the side,

THEnn are several handsome toilettes for receptions,
dinners, and balls. The front of a rich satin dress,
of a lovely geranium red, was composed of box plaits
from the waist, which were cut up in tubs at the edge;
the slits were all made on the face of the plaits, lined
with broche of exactly the same shade, and turned
back in points on each side, the plaits resting on a
broche kilting which bordered the hem of the skirt;
the drapery at the back was of figured material and
very cleverly arranged, one half in long gathered folds,
the other looped up to the hip the loss close-fitting
bodice was beautifully cut and edged with two rows of
red beads; the armholes were outlined to match, and
had epaulette straps just below. A bodice and train
of full-toned prune velvet, had a petticoat front of
mother-o'-pearl satin, brocaded with arbutus leaves
and berries in natural colours, and poppies in bright
orange shade; the bodice was square-cut and trimmed
with old lace, and short elbow elves plainly made.

THE cold weather makes us discard velvet mantles
for others of fur, the dolman of cloth, fur lined and
fur trimmed, or the warm pelisse covering the dress.
Some of these, made of long-piled brown plush, are
bordered with deep bands of skunk, which appears to
be quite as much worn as the popular black astrakan.
Eiderdown now takes the place of the wadded silk
lining of old, and the difference in weight is as vast
as the luxury gained by the change. Rough camels'
hair, too, is much used for the cloaks trimmed wila
black astrakan, and this, with large patterns of loose
shaggy wool, is the favourite kind now in vogue.
Seal, which is rarely employed for a mantle complete
in itself (excepting for handsome surtouts), is mostly
combined with skunk, sable, or mink as a trimming of
bands or " fringe. The useful mantilla, or
short cape of fur, is the fashionable wrap for young
girls, and this season's shapes are far better in cut,
more becoming, than those of last year.

THEY have long fronts, which fit closely and well to
the waist. They are bordered with skunk cut in
bands, not too wide, and are finished with squirrel-tail
fringe. Smaller ones, wholly of seal, have pendent
ball fringes of fur, and capes made this way are most
bandy to don on emerging from close-heated rooms.
Being light, they are easily carried, and, therefore,
not found "in the way ; " they are always in place
when put on, and require no system of strings. Short
jacket-shaped capes of curled Crimean lamb—so often
called grey Astrakan—are beautifully cut, drawn in
at the waist, and fitting the figure in front. This cape
can be had in all kinds of smooth fur—beaver, otter,
mink, sable, or seal, trimmed with fringes of acorns
or balls of the same, and with silken cords tied at the
throat.

IN tailor-made costumes, jackets, and cloaks, there
are novelties worthy'of note. Braiding is still le grand
genre as the trimming of all winter jackets, which
are also adorned with wide bands of fur, beaver,
otter, and black Astrakan. Some very smart ones
are being madP, braided in a genuine " uniform "
style, the Royal Artillery mixture of black and red
being a great and special favourite.

A !imams cloth gown, of the small Gun Club
check, was trimmed with fine red and black braid;
the close-fitting bodice was pointed in front, and had
habit-shaped back, with fan plaits; the braiding was
worked with great skill, decreasing in width to the
waist, thus the lines of the figure, while strictly pre-
served, were lengthened, and thereby improved; the
skirt had long kilts about four inches wide, and three
smaller ones ranged at each side; the tunic fell low
in short, close-gathered curves, and was raised again
high on the hips; half the back of the tunic was
draped in three folds, and the others in long
hanging loops. The Alpine costume, of dark green
Rampoor cloth, was fur trimmed, with golden beaver
on tunic, and close round-cut bodice; the skirt is
quite light (we can walk at our ease, and quickly too,
should we so wish), and has only a killing attachld
to the edge about five or six inches in depth ; the
tunic is cut in one piece, and draped with most stylish
effect, caught up high at the sides, the front falling
thence in a number of loose, careless folds; the front
of the tunic was trimmed- with the fur which sur-
rounded the collar and cuffs. Warm homespun
Cheviots, in mixture of colour—red and blue, bronze
and red, and such like—are prettily made up as out-
door costumes, just the garment a lady would wear.
The same tint, in shades, look remarkably well, as
the Varsity light and dark blues. The gowns are not
cumbrous and are designed to promote that sensation
of freedom and absolute ease which all well-made
costumes should possess.

The old saw, "Never kick a manwhen he is down,"
!s a good ono, because to kick a man when he is down
is cowardly. Now we give another: "Never kick a
man when he is up," because it is reckless when the
kicked one possesses the strength of a Streetly and
the ferocity of a Brabbit.
When a fashionable patient consulted Abernethy
about a troublesome skin disorder the great surgeon
said:—" Tell your servant, sir, to bring a tub, and
fill it with cold water. Then, having taken off your
clothes, get in and rub yourself well all over with the
water, and you'll recover." "Why, doctor," said the
patient, "you are telling me to wash myself."
Abernethy's only answer Well, sir, my advice
Is open to that objection-7_