The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1885-06-20 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

NEVER did any new material score such universal
success as the canvas introduced this seasor. Its
favourable reception induced manufacturers to vary
it in every conceivable way, both in texture and
design, and now we have it in its perfected state in
coarse and fine grounds, striped with moicO, different
shades of broad velvet, and narrow plush; in wool, in
silk, and in cotton. Some of the fancy kinds have
alternate stripes of plain and open-worked canvas as
wide as 12in. ; others, called "racquet canvas," have
the grounds " meshed" in imitation of a racquet, or
a miniature copy of a lawn tennis ne., while the
cotton ones have lace effects in endless variety. These
last are cool, and make up prettily with lace and
ribbons. In addition to every sort of costume, we see
canvas bonnets, hats, parasols, scarves, mantles, long
cloaks, aprons, fichus, and light carriage rugs. The
fancy canvas scarves, with heraldic devices in shining
gold and different colours, or in lines of satin, adorn
every other hat we meet with now in the streets. The
most coquettish little bonnets are made olit of them,
with the ends twisted high up in the air; parasols
have them tied in a large bow near the handle, and
elderly ladies' morning caps are formed of one twisted
into the usual shape, with the ends turned back
from the front, and softened by lace deftly intro-
duced.

THEN next in popularity come the printed delaiDes
that revival of many years ago, with small quaint
designs of flowers, varied by the larger and more
modern designs and shades. These are greatly worn,
and will be extremely popular for autumn country
festivities. A great many were to be seen in the Row
on Thursday, the 4th inst., that great show day of
summer costumes and gay folk, between the Derby
and the Oaks. These delaines can be simply made
up for cool morning wear, or can be rendered dressy
with lace, velvet, or ribbons, and worn at fetes, races,
and smart morning entertainments. The ground of
most of them is ecru or cream, and the bodices have
gathered lace or velvet waistcoats, with cuffs and
collar of velvet.

ANOTHER revival is plain white muslin worn over
colour—lemon, yellow, and mauve being the most
popular. The high bodice and underskirt is of
coloured batiste or silk, and the muslin dress goes
over it, the bodice being close-fitting, with a gathered
lace waistcoat. The skirt is either draped aer.-ms the
front, plaited down one side, and in fulness or long
folds down the back; or it is in the simple style
known to some people as the Peasant, which resem-
bles the housemaid skirt, but has a fall of lace from
Gin, to 10in, deep all round the edge, and rows of
tucks or insertion of lace above. A wide sash finishes
off the costume. This style is only adapted to quite
young girls.

PRINTED muslins are being prepared for Ascot wear,
and lovely some of them are, with endless yards of
lace and coloured ribbon velvet. With these cos-
tumes, bonnets of white borsehai.:-, studded with small
pearls, or gold or steel beads, trimmed with velvet
strings, and an ambitious tuft of flowers, fruit, and
grass in the centre of the front, are being prepared.
Sometimes the bonnet is of the same muslin, with lace
and velvet. A few of the new cottons have gold lines
running through them ; but crêpe cloth and zephyrs
are the leading favourites. The milkmaid skirt is
suitable for the striped flannels. The petticoat is
plain, but of the striped fabric, and is usually gathered
on to a gored top, fitting closely to the hips, while the
overdress, consisting of skirt and bodice, is plain; the
former faced with the stripe and turned up on one
.side almost to the waist. This overskirt is easiest
described by saying that it should fall like an ordinary
skirt to within a quarter of a yard (or less, according
to individual fancy) of the underskirt, it is then
turned up on the left side, showing the striped lining,
as if carelessly tucked up, while a few stitches are
put into the other side to make it set well and a little
full. The stripes are perpendicular, both on skirt
and tunic, but when turned up on the latter will look
crossways. The bodice has a full front of the stripe,
also cuffs and large collar, the rest of the bodice being
of the plain material.

PARASOLS are in endless variety, but lace ones seem
to be the most general, especially in black, many being
semi-transparent, or showing a foundation of gold or
silver embroidery. Rows of velvet, about an inch and
a half, are placed between frills or insertions of lace,
some being down the parasol and others round it.
Three bows of poppy velvet on black lace, or moss-
green on cream lace parasols, are fashionable—one at
the ferule, a second inside the parasol, at the top, and
a third at the handle. Striped satin and chin 6
flowered moire is a fashionable combination, with a
hanffle bow of all the colours; also gilded fancy
etamine and drawn net, in red, ecru, black, or
brown.