The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1885-11-21 00:00:00

GO6SIP ON DRESS.

ELIAND DE MAnsfl writes from Paris to the
Queen : The marriage of Mlle. d'lmecourt, the
Marquis of Gallifet's niece, was a grand affair, but it
created leas sensation than it merited, owing to the
more important Orleans wedding that preceded it.
The bridegroom was Prince Hohenlohe. The bride
wore at the contract-signing the traditional pink
dress, covered with tulle, embroidered in roses; her
dress at the church was plain white moire, with long
train; headdress, tea roses, myrtle, and a veil of
Vienna lace, on which the Hohenlohe arms were
embroidered, a custom that obtains in the prince's
country. The presents were magnificent, notably in
jewellery, in fact, I never saw a more splendid
corbeille. There were two branches of oak, bearing
acorns entirely in diamonds, and they were mounted
86 as to form a complete trimming to a bodice, or
they could be separated, and one arranged in the hair
and the other on the skirt. There were three
diamond rivi6res fastened by a large diamond bow,
to be placed on the shoulder, the rivieres fell as long
aiguillettes to the waistband, where there was a
smaller diamond bow. They could be detached and
worn as bracelets, necklets, or brooches. The
Marquise de Gallifet gave her niece a reed-pearl
necklet, fastened with pearl tassels, and Mme. &Hien
(We Gallifet) offered enormous diamond solitaire
earrings. The engaged ring was a splendid sapphire.
set in brilliants.

THE Princess of Wales during her stay in Paris
ordered some beautiful dresses and mantles. Two
specially becoming cloth costumes deserve descrip-
tion, because of their simplicity and elegance. One
was in Henri 111. style, almost severe in its lines.
The skirt, of navy blue cloth, had panels braided in
fine black soutache ; the tablier was doll cbaudron
velvet. The bodice, moulding the figure, was trimmed
with black braid, which' formed loops at the waist,
arranged like the ribbon loops to be seen on costumes
worn in the reign of Henri 111. The sleeves also
were extremely close fitting.

THE second dress was in slate vigogne, the soft
draperies on the skirt being gracefully arranged. The
bodice was embossed velvet of three shades—slate,
old silver, and pale silver; rosettes of slate satin, were
placed at each side of short basqUes. One small
mantle ordered by her Royal Highness was in seal-
brown plush, its long wide sleeves trimmed with fur-;
it fitted the figure very closely at the back of the
waist where it was short.

TOE gay world who came to Paris for the recent
brilliant weddings have gone again, either to their
country seats for the hunting season or to Fontaine-
bleau, where large fetes and receptions are about to
take place; consequently, the opera is not specially
brilliant this week. The first night of" The (,id," at
the end of the month is looked forward to, however,.
as a re-assembling of our aegantes. And yet on
Monday night I remarked the Comtesse de Montreuil
wearing a white damask low bodice, and lace skirt ;
pearl necklet, and a pouf of white marabout feathers
for head-dress. A magnificent opera cloak in white
plush, trimmed with fringe. Mme. Goldsmith, in a-
low black satin dress, richly embroidered in jet; a
bouquet of natural violets on the bodice and in the
hair. Comtesse de Villeneuve, in pale blue moire;.
bodice open in a: low point back and front, and
trimmed with point d'Angleterre ; large opera cloak
in brown embossed velvet, with border of natural.
beaver. Vicomtesse de Courval, in a Princesse dress
of claire de lone damask, ruched with lace; striped
satin skirt, bordered with a deep flounce; Princesse.
bodice, with paniers and a large lace fichu fastened,
with sapphire studs; grey fur pelisse, trimmed with
Russian sable. Mlle. de Laage, in pink silk, with low.
bodice, and full plastron terminating as a sash,
fastened with silver agrafes, pink bows on the.
shoulders and draping the lace sleeves, fria6 hair;
with pink fillet, pink bow at the throat; long Suede
gloves, with tops of open-work embroidery. Mtn°,
Fould, in black lace over pink satin, with full drapery
in front, and large bow and ends at the back; a single
row of large pearls round her throat; black satin
opera pelisse, lined with pink satin, gathered hood
likewise lined in pink; Suede gloves, with tops of
embroidered silk tricot; pink silk stockings, black
satin shoes with pink rosettes.

WAS
.present last week at a dinner at the Cbateau
du Emu; in Touraine, when some elegant toilettes
were worn. The Conitesse de Rochefort Ma in
Chantilly lace over 'pale blue broche ; the skirt was
draped on the left side, with large pink and blue
pompons, and thus showed the plaited underskirt;
bodice of lace insertion, with wide ruche round the
pointed opening Roman; necklet of antique mimeos
of great beauty. Vicomtesse de Beaumont wore a
striped flame and gold silk skirt, with Prinoesse b2dice
of brown China crepe embroidered in flame spots;
large bows of shot flame and brown ribbon on the
skirt; bouquets of different coloured chrysanthemums
on the bodice and in the hair. Vicomtesse de
Toulgoet, in a simple dress of white veiling; the
bodice, which was finely tucked, was crossed
fichu ; the front of the skirt was also tucked, and
the back gracefully draped; lilac ribbon in the hair.
Comtesse de Montesquion, in violet satin, studded
with sprays of iris, embroidered isligh relief; violet
velvet bodioe, with waistcoat embroidered in irises, a
large lace jabot issuing from the waistcoat. Mine.
de Treves in a white and ponceau striped satin skirt;
white lace bodice, with Swiss corselet of embroidered
satin.

A PARISIAN firm of modister have been making some
beautiful di eases for the Princess Dolgoronki. Among
them was a short skirt of peacock-blue moire and
China crêpe, trimmed with bands of peacocks' eye
feathers; the crêpe front was draped with orange
velvet ribbon; and the high moire bodice was orna-
mented with orange bows. Another consisted of a
round skirt of lemon-coloured Bengaline, draped
with crêpe de Chine to match, bodice of the two
materials. An elegant theatre toilette was gold net,
studded with gold balls, and mounted over Nile-green
satin; bodice to correspond, with a Figaro jacket in
emerald-green satin, covered with gold embroidery.
A beautiful ball dress was pale broche pink silk,
striped alternately with embroidered gold and silver,
and trimmed like the low bodice with a quantity of
silver thistles. And, lastly, the Princess had ordered
a black walking dress, which was specially attractive.
The round skirt was satin at the back, but Mae velvet
in front and at the sides; the edge was bordered with
passementerie lace, beaded with plomb or lead-
coloured beads; the short satin tunic was draped at
each side with three large velvet bows, from which
depended aiguillettes in jet and plomb ; fris6 velvet
bodice, with full bouffant satin basque; in front there
was a pink crepe jabot, embroidered and bordered
with jet and pl2mb beads..

ANOTHER famous French house has been making
some rich dresses for the Spanish Court, notably in
the new shade of red, called " tison d'enfer," and in
several shades of green. For the Comtesse de Guaqui,
who is attached to the Spanish Court, there was a
short visiting costume in sapphire-blue velvet,
bordered, and trimmed in front with a wide Oriental
galon in cashmere designs, embroidered all over in
gold and fine silks. This is a new fabric, and some-
times measures a yard and a quarter in width, and
costs as much as £l2 the metre. For the same
rande dame there was a maize crepe evening dress,
made up with spotted net, moire, satin, and lace, all
of the same colour, and yet the effect was simple.
Another Spanish lady had ordered a shot velvet
visiting costume—dark blue, shot with cerise, and
made up with cerise faille Francaise; the draperies
were on the cross; there was a panel on one side of
tie skirt and a bow on the other. The velvet bodice
had a drapery on the cross.
* * *

Tun Queen of Denmark, the Princess of Wales, and
the Duchess of Cumberland all ordered bonnets
during their recent stay in Paris. The Queen chose
a brown velvet bonnet, with seal fur brim; a faille
bow and a bouquet of violets in the centre of the
Front; besides other bonnets in the same quiet style.
The Princess of Wales selected a bonnet composed of
soft grey pigeon's feathers, with brim of Russian seal;
a beautiful pigeon aigrette. A brown velvet toque,
with border of light seal, and a simple bow at the
side; a collarette and muff to match. A black velvet
bonnet, with pink aigrette aud paste buckle; muff to
match. The Duchess of Cumberland ordered a bonnet
made of scarlet velvet and jet, trimmed with lace and
fancy feathers; a small toque, with red velvet crown
and brown plush border; another in Astrakan, with a
small head of the animal for ornament; a chinchilla-
grey plush bonnet, ornamented with a pigeon's head;
ani a green velvet bonnet, with pink aigrette. To all
the bonnets there was a muff to match.

64 PARISINE; tells of a -lovely trous-seau in the
Lady's Pictorial : First came a very pretty bride's
dress of rich brocart, milk-white (as cream was no
longer the vogue for toilettes de manages), with a
long plain train mounted at the waist en godets, the
new way, consisting of the soft folds of the drapery
to be caught up carelessly a little below the waist; the
left side of the plain broche skirt opened en panneau
on a skirt of white tulle, over which a shower of
orange blossoms seemed to have fallen. The skirt
was en Prineesse shape, for it draped gracefully over
the front of the body, fastening in a sort of true lover's
knot over the panncau. The plain bodice had a front of
white tulle, with a sprinkling of buds and 'petals of
orange flowers • the sleeves to match.

THE bridesmaid's dress was of ciel crepe de chine
over a full petticoat of plain blue faille francaise
raised high on one side, the tunic fell in long plaited
folds very low on the other. The body was gathered
on the shoulders, which fulness was imprisoned at
the waist in a corslet of crepe. For the mother of
the bride there was a long train dress of sapphire
velvet brocade, the skirt opened here and .there at
the bottom to show the simulated plisse() underskirt
of plaited faille. This dress was made en princesse,
the bodice full in front, with a pretty revers, which
showed the plaited chemisette of white crepe lisse.

A.NIONGST the prettiest dresees of the trousseau I
noticed an evening or dinner gown in Bengal pink
faille. The train, of bronze-green catelee satin, had
large detached flowers worked into the stuff of velvet
faconnO. The front was veiled in white lace, an 'im-
mense bow of bronze satin ribbons fixing the drapery
in front; a pointed bodice back and front of, the
bronze velours faQonnO, with a waistcoat of pink,

covered with lace. A cascade of lace edged the
deoollete, and the short pink elbow sleeves were also
covered with lace. The old fashioned !ow bodice with
elbow sleeves looked much better than / anticipated.
A dinner dress of Chinese red faille franlnise was
made in very wide pleats for the skirt, two rows of
jet pa.stilles strung on a cordon of jet forming
pzimatit on either side. The bodice had a basque
cut in square tabs in front, and three points at the
back. It was finished with three rows .of the jet
trimming, forming a waistcoat in front.

NEXT came a dress of Aeojon velvet with long train,
panels of jet on the left side; the front of the bodice
opened in a narrow square on a plaited ehemisette of
cream crêpe embroidered in gold, jockey sleeves of
velvet gathered on the shoulder, and under sleeves of
satin of a lighter shade. A gorgeous short visite of black
Lyons velvet was heavily trimmed on the shoulderand
neck, and edged with passementerie of black chenille
and bronze—a sort of copper-gold bead, lined with
copper-colour satin. A coetume, de chasoe in corduroy
velveteen, gris de lin, was made with a plain skirt;
shooting jacket to match, with a shirt of white flannel,
pinked-out bands of white flannel for collar and cuffs.
Trotteuse costume of brown toile a nods over a dark
blue j upon, trimmed round the bodice with silk grelots ;
the tu»ic had no trimming, and the coarse- woven
edge of the stuff was turned over en revers.