The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1885-08-01 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

Oita of our friends, a young married lady, Bays The
Season, has written for information on toilettes for
the seaside, yet if this question is to be taken in a
general or in a particular sense we do not quite com-
prehend, we suppose, however, bath, and for this
reason have informed ourselves of the fashions pre-
paring for elegant as well as simple bathing places,
also of those watering places where stylish dress is
required, that is to say, where people study appear-
ance more than health, or in plainer words where
they go to see and be seen.

Jr you intend, dear readers, to pay a visit to a
fashionable bathing place, first select a matinee of
fine chine flannel, or soft woollen material in grenat,
cream or havannah of a delicate tint. The casaque
which opens over a long loose moire plastron, orna-
mented at the neck and below the waist where turned
under, with flot bows of gold yellow, grenat, and
chestnut brown of a darker shade than the founda-
tion stuff is made short and tight-fitting at the back
and long in front, the trimming being of white or
coloured. guipure. The under skirt is either pleated
throughout or arranged in the fashionable peasant
stylo, the upper jupe plain in front and laid in large
straight pleats at the back, both being ornamented
below with a plain row of the guipure. A small
coiffure or cap of lace and ribbon assorted to the
toilette should be worn,

Tins matinee is only one of the many arrangements
for such robes, but will give some idea of what is in
good taste for the occasion above mentioned, we
must, however, remark that a certain simplicity and
plainness is to be observed in all; in fact, simplicity
is the order of the day, and our present fashions offer
every facility for practising economy in dress. The
greatest luxury in the matter of morning and indoor
toilettes is shown in the use of beads, and beaded
cords, braids, and even ribbons, which give a glitter
and sheen really not to be described; the fashion too
of drawing in morning wrappers at the waist or side
with glittering cords and tassels and putting dainty
pendants to match on the sleeves, &c., is most bright
and effective. Many tea-gowns are only very elegant
repetitions of such matinees, being trimmed profusely
with woollen lace and glittering ornaments.

How many such gowns should be packed is difficult
to determine, as so much depends upon circumstances,
&c., but at least three of somewhat different styles
and materials, and one of washing material, such as
oatmeal cloth or crash, a new cotton frise—the new
textures of the latter, only made in cream, being both
pretty and effective and the designs similar to the
velours frises worn during the winter. For prome-
nade costumes on hot days, gauze net, and len ma-
terials would be wanted, and these might serve for
out-door fetes, if elegantly arranged and with a hand-
some sash, Toilettes of cool plain and striped sang-
her are much admired, the tints favoured being moss,
havannah, grenat, &c. When the plain material is
used, the first skirt is generally round and trimmed at
the lower edge, the second one laid in box-pleats,
pinked out below and coming alternately with bands
of bead-embroidered woollen lace, the whole being
then edged with the lace. The drapery is caught up
short on one side in five long pleats and taken back on
the other en coquillage.

VERY elegant skirts for walking costumes are of silk
and etamine, ornamented with large detached flowers
in velvet or plush, the plastron being bordered on each
side with a row of the same; one flower is also put
on to the neckband and sleeve facings, the latter being
half-long. The tunic and back drapery are left plain,
but a wide fringed sash at the side gives a pretty
stylish effect. Many etamines are woven in two or
more colours, these are most effective, and make
elegant costumes for stylish watering-places. The
bonnet and parasol worn with such toilets must be in
exact harmony, and the bow on the sunshade corres-
pond to the sash or bows on the dress.

BONNETS and hats show but very little decrease in
height, and even headdresses follow in their train.
Tiny capotes are, however, great favourites, especially
with young married, and middle-aged ladies. Many
are composed of lace arranged round a single large
flower, as for instance a poppy or a peony, or a bunch
of leaves in autumn shades, and bows, almost cover
the whole shape. Beads, lace either beaded or plain,
leaves, flowers, feathers and fruit—the latter particu- -
larly fashionable—compose all the trimmings, and
large ornamental pins and aigrettes, the number of
which is legion, fasten on many of the ornmentations
or are stuck in as decorations. Of shapes there is no
dearth, but now great enquiries are made for large
sbady, or sun-hats and bonnets, which are only be-
coming when trimmed with great taste and appro-
priate to the face and form.

Totmerrss for the casino, or assembly rooms, and
concerts at bathing or watering places are very
numerous, very varied and extremely elegant. Trim-
mings and draperies are mostly of black or white lace.
Chantilly appliqué and beaded lace are greatly in
vogue, indeed bead ornamentations, among others
coat-of-mail nettings are much used for low bodices
and the fronts of dresses; in the evening above all,
everything must shine and glitter, and beaded em-
broideries look splendid mounted on mauve or grenat
—now the favourite colours. Velvet trellises fastened
at each crossing with a large iridescent bead have a
very splendid effect by gas or wax-light.