The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1885-01-03 00:00:00

THE STOURBRIDGE OBSERVER.

GOSSIP OS DIMS

'Tun London fashion writer in the Queen has the
following: A frost would be a Godsend in the
"fading of the year." The fur-trimmed costumes
are long since prepared, the skating gowns ready at
hand, yet the weather on most days continues so
muggy and warm, that such garments are all but
tabooed. At times we are quite overcome by the
weight of our new winter clothes, and lay them aside
wits a sigh of regret that they cannot, with comfort,
ho worn. The " happy medium" may fortunately be
obtained in adopting the tailor-made gowns, and these
are, as usual, in such general request that their
fashions may here be described. The mixtures of
last season's cloths are not now so apparent in this.
Plain colours are widely employed as the basis of
walking attire. Choosing the colours—always a task
of moment and much hesitation—was never more
difficult than at present. Of browns there are fifty
new shades, and almost as many of greens; while the
blues are so varied in tones, mixed with grey, that
their number seems quite without end. As to the
reds, who shall give them their name—lie de vin,
ruby, garnet, Burgogne ?

BRAIDING is almost exclusively seen on jackets when
worn out of doors, and together with fur (need we
say a3trakan ?) holds the kudos of popular favour.
Rough shaggy "coatings," diagonal cloths, both are
worn with plain round velvet skirts, and braided cos-
tumes are either complete in themselves or adorned
with fur bands and silk cords. Mixed bright metal
braids are used laid on waistcoats and cuffs of plain
cloth. This is usually also of some distinct shade
from that which composes the gown. Blue and red
are most deftly combined, or red with rich dark
myrtle-green, and both can be trimmed with equal
effect with gold-woven red mohair braid. A gown of
fine dark navy-blue, with red on the skirt, introduced
as revers at the sides, had a self-coloured tunic grace-
fully draped, which fell in a square apron front, and
close-folded loops at the back. The bodice was
habit-shaped, beautifully cut, and made with short
coat-tails behind. The opening was filled by a plait
of red cloth, with red and gold braid sewn thereon.
A long narrow waistcoat (again of red cloth)
was almost concealed by close rows of braid,
in short " side-to-side " lines down its length.
A high stand-up collar encircled the throat.
The braiding on this was upright, and the sleeves
were just stitched at the wrists, forming cuffs, with
two buttons of horn at the sides. The "Hurling-
ham," made in soft, small-checked cashmere, is a
costume that is sure to attract. It is neat, unobtru-
sive, yet plainly proclaims its worth as a "well-
worn " costume. The kilted skirt is of ample size and
flows in long lines from the waist. The square-cut
tunic, draped at the right in a cluster of folds on the
hip, crosses the skirt in curves in the front, and is
then carried round to the left. It is like a long scarf,
one end caught up high and falling straight down at
the side; the other all gathered and forming a loop,
fastened up to the waist at the back. The jacket is
plain, with a short, round basque, and the lappels and
cuffs are of covered velvet, in shades that accord with
the check. A small cloth waistcoat appears above the
velvet, and buttons close up to the threat.

Tim Zouave is also a smart "mannish "gown. Its
leading idea, to be guessed by its name, is a jacket
with waistcoat beneath, the latter distinct, and as
easily changed as a gentleman's fancy cloth vest.
The bxlice is kept in its place at the waist by a belt
passing through at the sides. There are slits in the
vest, which no one can see, and the belt is secured in
the front. Any number of waistcoats can therefore
be worn, an advantage as many will own, who wish to
be careful—yet crave for effect—when "pin money"
fails or grows short. Satin, leather, and fur are em-
ployed for these vests, each importing a new tout
ensemble, and the list could be rendered vet still more
complete by silk braided or gold wove' cloth. A
plainly-made skirt, falling straight from the waist,
and a close-fitting jacket to match, is of warm supple
cloth of darkest seal-brown, and looks the perfection
of ladylike taste trimmed with bands of fine black
or grey fur. On the skirt are two pockets of practical
use, should travelling be the intent, and there
is a long pointed waistcoat. Gowns are made cf
cloth in two shades, well adapted for everyday wear,
with long, narrow panels arranged on the skirts, the
darker cloth showing between. This is used on the
bodice as sharp-pointed cuffs and lappet-shaped front
buttoned down ; and again at the sides of the short,
scooped-out basque in a curve to the coat tails
behind. The drapery falls like an apron in front, in
regular folds from the hips; at the back it is looped
over straight-hanging plaits which lessen in length to
one side. A mixture of velvet and self-coloured
cloth makes a capital young ladies' "town "dress, and
blue cloth and red, worked with red and gold braid,
an effective and stylish visite. In jackets and ulsters
the shapes were as good as the workmanship clearly
appeared; the braiding was carried out with the
scrupulous care that can be best described as first-class,
and the garments themselves were of that accurate fit
which our fashionables ever demand.

A DECIDED feeling has recently arisen for combining
two materials of different texture and variety. Con-
trast is the rule of the day. By daylight and gaslight
its presence is seen and gains wider favour each day.
Itich " mill-board " brocades on skirts of cashmere or
rough-surfaced warm woollen stuffs are as often used
now as on gossamer gauze, fine veiling, or soft China
crape. Toilettes of muslin are often adorned with
broad panels of velvet brocade, while gay-figured
damasks are greatly in vogue on skirts of lace frilled
to the waist. Trains are revived on smart evening
robes, but remain unattached to the skirts. The
bodice and train are of plain coloured satin (of a
shade which is found on the panels), the former with
stomacher front of brocade, and the latter with
fiat band or pouf as a border sewn on at the
hem. Young married ladies who still join the
dance have demi trains loosely caught up ani
looped to the skirt, falling down to its edge, and yet
barely touching the floor. In this case also the bodice
is of satin; the skirt can be embroidered silk or crape,
sewn with motifs of beads. Gowns of pale-hued Surah,
very full, gathered close at the waist, are worn by
young ladies who wish to depart from the long
favoured skirts of soft tulle. They are turned up all
round, with bag-like effect, a short distance (a foot)
from the edge, and below the loose flounce (which
has several tucks), stands out with most pleasing
result. Instead of the tucks, the flounce may be
plain, with a small pinked-out ruche sewn around, or
a border of flowers appliquéd with beads may be laid
in a narrow flat band. A dress made in
this way was composed of Sarah of a lovely quaint
porcelain-green; the skirt entirely untrimmed.
The low-cut bodice was pointed back and front;
round the basque was a flounce of some well-
designed lace, interwoven with threads of
bright gold; the berthe was adorned with
narrower lace, the armholes with frills of the
same. At the left of the bodice and right of
the basque was a cluster of pink velvet bows (in tint
like the rose called La France), in the centre of
which were white gold tipped feathers and brilliantly
marked humming birds. .Another, in much the same
fashion, was cream-colour, striped with pale blue, and
trails of small rosebuds divided the lines, which
were narrow and quite closely placed. The skirt of
this ball gown was oped in front, showing cream and
gold figured brocade. At the edge was a cordon of
roses and leaves on a frilling of finely sprigged lace.
The bodice was high to the neck at the back, but cut
very low on the chest. In front was a fichu of folded
lace, with rose-coloured satin beneath; the basque
was outlined with cut golden beads, which headed a
full flounce of lace—an extremely pretty and original
toilette.

THE bright-feathered "birds " which we see in the
shops (we are thankful the real ones are spared) are
ornaments soon to be laid on one side, as they
threaten forthwith to be common. Hitherto used 311
our bonnets and hats, they look very well on our
gowns, notably studded on clouds of white tulle lightly
puffed over satin or silk. To be had in all colours, a
" flight " of these birds make a charming effect when
well placed, some poised on the surface clearly dis-
played, others mistily veiled underneath. With skirts
of white tulle, the white satin bodice has birds on the
shoulder and basque. They are seen as if perching
on bows of white velvet, from which springs a feather
aigrette. A stylish admixture of brown and pink
tulle was adorned with small bright crimson birds,
the petticoat being of golden hued satin edged with a
tricoloured ruche. Ribbons of satin, pink, brown, and
pale gold crossed the skirt, hung in long festooned
loops; these were gathered up high on each side at
the hips, fixed with red birds on gold and pink tips.
The brown satin bodice was woven with gold and
bordered with large brown " faced " beads, and loops
of the same hung over the arms and fell in short
cl;ains on the bust. On the shoulders were birds and
more gold and pink tips, which did but scant duty for
sleeves.

Fon daily "At home" wear or afternoon tea some
aprons of lace, trimmed either with ribbons of satin in
small " tassel " bows, or with two colours deftly en-
twined, are introduced. Bege-coloured flounces of
well-raised French lace have loops of the palest sky-
blue, the square folded bib has a few baby bows and
a lace strap, which goes round the neck. A white
one is made of coarse antique thread lace, sewn in
rows on a background of net, and the shaped plastron
bib and the apron below has a centre cascade of the
same. On this is a line of twisted ribbons, bronze-
green and bright bouton d'or ; the top of the bib is
curved to the neck, and the lace forms a fiaise round
the throat. Another of net, all covered with dots
and bordered by bold-patterned lace, had a small
square bib front and a turnover frill, trimmed with
pink and red mixed tassel bows. A fawn spotted
muslin one, printed in colours—little wheelbarrows
laden with roses—was made up with flounces of
deeper toned lace and pale blue and bronze twisted
ribbon. The pocket was trimmed with bows and
long loops, a deep collar finished to match; this was
joined in the front to a straight piece. of muslin,
folded and reaching the waist.

A poor emaciated Irishman having called in a
physician as a forlorn hope, the latter spread a huge
mustard plaster, and clapped it on the poor fellow's
breast. Pat, with a tearful eye, looking down upon it,
said, " Docther, docther, dear, it strikes me that it is
a dale of mustard for so little mate 1"