The Dorset County Express and Agricultural Gazette.
Dorchester, Dorset, England, 1869-11-09 00:00:00

Ebr 'ashrams, &c.

SHOW Corrollitt.—Whilet on the subject of pet-
Meseta. I must not forget to nitntion tl.al the petticoat
is to forma the principal part of • short costume, and
that as the tartans are so fashionable for cloaks so will
they be for those ends rskirts. They can be purchased
in • variety ci! tunterials, from verge to the riehest
poult de sole; fine cloths look as well as enytliing, and
have a very good effect. The petticoats generally sire
bordered with two or three little frills, out on the
croce, and either pinked out or bound either with •
hand of scimitar silk cut on the 01051. or, with what
looks real better, bleek velvet—the velvet relieving the
bright meters ef the tartan. I sew in Paris • pretty
drees of Stuart plaid worn as • pennon. and the tunie
was of rich doverneloured silk, with potter caught up
in elegant festoons above it, and the effect was therm-
beg. Anotber emettene also caught my fancy •it was
the Macsensie tartan, and the skirts were black silk,
the Gist skin plebe and the mooed formed the ismer,
which was fissished off with rosettes to mann the
penitent. The advantage of these manrooloured
petticoats is that they set off almost any skirt worn
with them, mil the wearer looks fashionably drafted
alino-t without any extra trouble. —Peen kW?•
diners on Duxesxmcixo.—Fulaiousbly-made bodices
show the figure in its miter.' proportions, the seams
following IN clot. ly as may be the outlines of the figure.
For instance: shoulder seam+ are placed on the shoulder,
not at the beck of it, as was formerly the cm,; the
shoulders do hut extend over the arm, but are short
enough te make the armhole in its appropriate plasm ;
there is no etteince to makes the back look narrow by
placing the side seam behind the arm instead of under
it; the waist to of miter.) length, neither immodertre'sy
short nor long, termieates at the natural taper just
above the hips; nor is it compressed by tight lacing.
Easy-fitting genets, with but few whalebones, are worn
to seep srt the figure, but not to make it smaller.
Macey belies prate to have the dress sk.rt ceparate from
the waist and attached to a belt. Is this cee, to pre-
vent the two portions of the stress from parting, It is
well to ectend the bodies over the hip. in a loose, easy
league, to be thrust under the skirt of the dream. The
whalebones do not extend over the hips, but stop at the
natroeest taper of the collage. Shoulder seams are no
baser corded. A mad is not required around the neck
if • stanshug band is used. If the dress is cat away low
at the throet, according to the summer faslioo, it is
corded without a band. Armholes ere alwaes corded,
and should be ample enough fur comfort. Many
dressmakers object to cording the bodice at the belt, all
the cord is !apt to draw. They use instead • bias facing
stitched on to give it auffirient strength. The inner
seam of the sleeve should (allover the centre of the ann.
When the sleeve se being sewed in the armhole the sleeve
should be held above, in order that its slight fulness
may be gradually gathered into the armhole; the sleeve
will then stand out properly around the armhole.
Loose or Garibaldi bodices may be made from the
petterns for tight bodies@ by merely omitting to seam
• up the ants, allowing the fulness to form gathers to be
attached to a belt, or to remain loose and unattached to
• belt. The dress skirt is of convenient walking length,
flatly gored in front, with more fulness at the shies
than has been worn of late, giving the appearances of
being of even length all round. A good model has but
• five breadths, an., one sloped front breadth twenty-
seven inches wide at the bottom ; one gore on each side,
twentrone inches; and two full b•ck breedths, each
meaeuring twenty-seven inehes. The front width is
sewed to the belt ; the side gore has two shallow
plaits, and the book widths sin in full French gathers.
skirts are very much trimmed, and three and • quarter
yards wide; plainer skirts sr, from three and • ball to
four yards.—cereere
l'Atigicuis FOR NOuguarft.—linglisb poplins ars •
great demand, and will become more so as the autumn
evivances. Merinos also, • teaue both light and soft,
are beginning to appear. The toile d'Eve, the velem:eta
glace, and Scotch plaids, are useful and solid, and make
very pretty coetuines. Thick white wollen dresses ore
made for children, trimmed generally with black velvets,
with double akirts, and • jacket with broad revere of
velvet Waistcoats and bodies with postillion are
suiteble, and will be worn with the heavier materials
for skirts. Cechemire also continues to be mush worn,
either with foulard or striped taffetas, as underskirts
and trimmings. The patent has reappeared and
become • novelty. It is indispensable for morning
promenade or travelling or simple toilettes. The form
has gained by "light exile. It is no longer the
paletet-sac, which sometimes concealed the elegant and
pretty figure, but is shorter and more shaped. The
bottom, of the sleeves are larger and trimmed more
Sally. The paletet is emu from the waist behind, and
falls in two points separeted by bows at tho meet.
(Ace, platings of silk and • frill, or oftener the same
trimming as the dress is employed. Velvet, satin,
moire antique, cachemire, and cloth are the novelties of
the reason. Poplin and moire, faille and satin,
cashemire and velvet, compose the newest and most
elegant costumes. There is no longer a question as to
11,. material for trimming the autumn h•t. Velvet,
mixed with block jet is the fixed mode, and nothing can
replace it, however many other pretty ornaments maT
. be adopted. For example the templets i" Henri 111. '
The style is sombre, and the buckels and ornaments, as
well DA the border on the edge of the hat of jet, give it
r bright and elegant appearance. The " Tyrolien," an
sodden accepted as Is mode will continue to be worn
during the winter. it is wade in felt of black or dark
astern". Dark green, amongst other sombre shades, is
in good taste. The crown is high, and rather pointed.
The trimmings are velvet, ribbons, jet, and feathers.
There are two or three narrow rows of velvet round the
crown, to teals+ the colour of the felt. If trinimed
with ribbon, it should be wide, crossed or tied behind,
with the ends in email pane fringed. This style is
suitable for the young, to whom it gives a picturesque
air. The chapeaux de ville, and the chapeaux de
"wiper:no betin to andmilete, and, in the mixed form,
see not wanting in elegance. A black velvet hat, with
trimming of law and draperie of velvet thrown beak I
in the style of • fisherman's sap with • deep brightenloured lower placed over the ear, is very becoming.
A black net scarf, half covering the hair, tied under the
chin and rolled round the throat, gives it an Oriental ,
appearance, and is either hat or visiting bonnet. Young
ladies wear also strew hate the eines tightly drawn up
to the crown, the crown being entirely covered wieh
velvet, or with blue, mauve, or green moire. The
edges are plain straw. A bow with long ends in placed
behind to fall over the hair. The length of the rolled
veils should be rather more than three yards of Donee
Main gauze. They are not drawn over the face, but
turned round the hat and throat. The sailor's hat has
simply a ribbnn round the crown. They are of black
or white straw. The "Watteau' ill • small round hat
placed very forward over the brow. The trimming must
be put quite at the back, which gives it • very railed
appearance. The toque is still very fashionable edged
with black velvet. The lone ostrich feathers, Ores/ed.
, fall over the ehignon. The style of arranging the "ix
ersential, in order that the different forms of hate
' should preeerve their individuality. The chignon is
raised on the heed, and the rest of the hair fain on the
' neck in -ta
lai
.of coilfupre,gandr e"ithter (.huorlmil "Wax mufangegigeallofitYtbil
bandeeti or quite lent, falling over the shoulders.
, I Little girls with long and thick hair have it in simple
plaits hanging down the back. Only we • nail
I children wear the hair waived beheWoo:l 6.
-• 0-
' , from the forehead on eacb ode and tied with a bow uoil
the summit of the head. White gene and while each.-
mire are used for robes de ehantbre, ereoooyi with
coloured velvet-revers edged with white galp
Velvet robes de ohambre, fitting to the agues "a
wedded, love quilted Win reeees.—Le