The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1885-04-25 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

THE following is the fashion article from the Queen:
Slowly the winter costumes are disappearing, and re-
luctantly, as it were, the spring ones are taking their
place. The recent cold winds have caused people to
part with their comfortable wraps regretfully; but, on
a sunny day, there are evidences that the bright light
toilettes are ready and only want encouragement to
come forward in all their freshness and novelty.
Black, in dresses, cloaks, hats, and bonnets, is most
fashionable, and is to be seen much more generally
than anything else. The theory which many people
hold, that one is better dressed in black—especially
those with small incomes—than anything else, seems
to be a tolerably general one, to judge by the pre-
valence of it. Certainly the most beautiful and
varied materials are to be seen in it, and handsome
costumes L2e profusely trimmed with the plomb or
lead passementerie, jet, silver and gold combinations.
The black woollen canvas striped with broad velvet is
popular, trimmed with yak lace, and worn with a
mantelet of the stripe, laden with lace; and a bonnet
of black and gold net, velvet and wings. This material
in different colours is the novelty, par excellence, of
the season. It is striped with broad velvet or moire,
and embossed plush. to be also seen in fine and coarse
quality, plain, or with applique silk flowers, outlined
with narrow gold and silver threads, or woven in a
pattern that has the effect of lace. Day and evening
costumes, mantles, bonnets, parasols, and long travel-
ling cloaks are all made of it. Biscuit colour is par-
ticularly popular, and also navy blue, showing a red
foundation under its semi-transparent surface, and
trimmed with navy blue velvet. The most dainty
little mantelets are made to wear with the dress, by
the leading dressmakers. The skirts are varied in
kyle, but the two sides are nearly always differently
arranged, the front draped, and the back long, round
and full. The full back, with the gathers put inquite
at the centre, on the tournure, is kept in plac some-
times by tolerably broad revers of velvet, which meet,
and fasten to the outside of the basque, with a bow or
some sort of ornament. The front drapery, if long,
is drawn across to the left hip, and loses itself under
the velvet.

A NOVEL way of trimming the bodice with velvet is
to lay on a circle round each armhole, on the
shoulder and bust, and insert a point of velvet back
and front, graduated into a fine point at the waist.
Double revers of velvet, the upper ones much larger
than the lower, are also fashionable. Collars of
dresses are straight and high, and usually of velvet,
even if there is no velvet on the skirt. A narrow fold
of colour appears above, next to the skin. A flat
collar turned back on to the neck is to be seen on
some dresses, with a broad ribbon coming out from
each side tied loosely, and then carried down to the
waist, where it ends in another bow. The collar is of
embroidery or velvet. Other bodices have the front
arranged with a deep Swiss band of any fancy
material that happens to be used as trimming, and a
aim cf black lace is drawn down from the throat and
shoulders, over any colour that contrasts well with
the costume. This is particularly becoming to a
slight figure. Ribbon is greatly used. A pretty way
of brightening up a skirt is to make three clusters of
bows, connect- them by ends, and attach them to one
side of the skirt, placine the uppermost cluster at the
edge of the basque. The ends of the lowest cluster
reach to within a short distance of the edge of the
skirt. There are usually four loops and two ends to
elch bow. Terry velvet ribbon, ottoman or plain
velvet, are all used, and also the gauze ribbons that
are so fashionable. These gauze ribbons are made
from narrow to sash widths, and are in plain and
fancy varieties. If the skirt is plaited, one broad
plait is arranged at the side, on which these bows are
placed. The arrangement is suitable for both day
and evening dresses.

CREPE cloth is another fashionable material, and is
extremely pretty in stripes of delicate blended
colours for light summer dresses, especially for cool
tennis wear. It is a good deal used for morning
aprons, garden fichus, and the trimming of large
straw hats. The unshrinkable tennis flannels of this
season are particularly pretty, and light in weight,
and soft and becoming in colours. The plain and
broad-striped material is used together. Another
fashionable fabric which has taken greatly with the
public is the woollen or yak lace as edging, and also
in the piece, not so much the real, but the imitation.
It seems a pity that a novelty should be copied and
produced so quickly in a cheap imitation, but so it is,
and the piece lace at 2s. or so a yard finds more pur-
chasers than that at half a guinea or 12s. In creani
this lace will be greatly used for tennis and morning
costumes mixed with nun's veiling, canvas, or fine
flannel; and in black it goes well with cashmere or
any fabric, and is to compose the fronts or panels of
skirts, the waistcoats or bodices, close-fitting outdoor
jackets, or horizontal insertion in skirts, with a back-
ground of coloured silk or satin. Long, old-fashioned
lace scarves are now utilised for the fronts of silk or
brocade mantles. They are gathered up in a plaiting
round th. 3 throat, joined in front, and allowed to fall
to their natural length,in fiat folds down the front
of the mantelet, which reaches just to, or below the
waist. The lace on the mantelet must match as
nearly as possible.

Wrrn primrose day, the flower which gives its name
to it grows in appreciation. It has been faithfully
copied in gold and enamel, and is frequently given as
a small article of bijouterie. It is to be seen set as
brooches, scarf pins, earrings, and ornaments for the
hair. In real and artificial beauty it figures on ball
and d-y dresses, and is arranged as wreaths, button-
holes, bouquets, and table decoration.

*

IN artificial flowers white lilac is popular, also
purple and yellow iris, guelder roses (for debutantes'
ball gowns), clusters of horse chesnuts, with leaves
and blossom, and exquisite sprays of roses on thick
stems. Wings and feathers have greatly superseded
artificial flowers, and also quantities of ribbon and
beaded ornaments. At several recent weddings the
bridesmaids' bouquets, and the bride's, have been fes-
tooned all round the edge with narrow satin ribbons,
the former in several colours, and the latter in white
or cream. A bride's bouquet, at a fashionable
marriage of the day, had a fringe of marabout
instead of lace, round the edge, and four tall white
ostrich plumes, rising from the holder, standing up
at distances. Posies, instead of the usual large
bouquets, are being carried by guests and bridesmaids
at weddings, drawing-rooms, and occasionally at
afternoon receptions. They are flat at the back, not
very large, and are tied with a bow and long ends of
tolerably wide ribbon velvet, corresponding with the
costume. The bow is tied high, and does not conceal
the stalks.
* •

Comes in the hair are becoming popular. Those
worn some years ago, with large balls, are reappear-
ing, and are placed at the top of the plaits of hair, on
a level with the top of the head, and serve, in the
daytime to keep the short bonnets in their place. The
tortoiseshell Spanish combs are also worn, with the
hair dressed a little lower. With these plaits of hair
gilded hair-pins are much used, and sometimes they
all stand out a little. As many as thirty are some-
times to be seen, studded all over the plaits or coils.
Very large horseshoe pins in cut jet are also popular,
three being usually seen. The hair is sometimes
half turned up, and the plaits or coils arranged not
quite on the top of the head, so that they partly show
tinder the bonnets. This suits some heads better
than having all the hair on the crown of the head.
A merry-thought in diamonds is a fashionable pre-
sent to a bride or a very favoured friend. It is of
the natural size, and is placed in the hair, dress, or on
a wide bonnet-string bow. In gold or silver, the
merry-thought is given to bridesmaids. A shamrock
leaf in diamonds and enamel is another ornament of
the day. Blood-red note paper and envelopes, with
rough edges and surface, called " Mandt" paper, is
being used, but not very generally by any means.
The monogram is in black and gold, or plain gold.
Primrose paper is much more attractive in every
way, and has the flower stamped in gold on it, or the
monogram in pale blue and gold or bronze.

Foe the real flower of the day, gardenias are
popular as buttonholes for gentlemen, and the Mar-
shal Niel rose for ladies. The latter nestles in its
own rich green leaves, without anything else. The
daffodil or jonquil has had more than its share of the
day's popularity, and is still to be seen about rooms
and on dinner tables, with sprays of maidenhair
softening its golden glory. It is a pretty fashion to
put a tall-handled basket full of flowers on a tripod,
with a little deal top, and stand it beside the lady of
the house. The basket is fitted with a tin filled with
water.