The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1883-09-29 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

AUTUMN having now fairly set in, a more decided
change is marked in prev,lent fashions than has been
recorded of late ; but it is noticeahle that novelties for
the coming sea.on are not yet so numerous as is usual
at this period of the year. Under the heading "What
will be Worn," the special autumn number of the
Warehousemen and Drapers Trade Journal gives
some useful hints on dress from which we extract the
following :—When we turn to the new styles in making
dresses we find a large amount of charism, which seems
to indicate a new leaning toward increased plainness
in outline and straighter lines in the drapery of the
skirt. Plain skirts with tucks, skirts with long box-
pleats from the waist to the edge; plain skirts with a
full niche at the extremity for their sole trimming all
show this tendency. One way of making the box.
pleated skirt is to guage the pleats closely above the
edge, a style called "Flemish tassels" by the French.
Some alteration in the shape of skirts will probably
be seen later on, when, it is said, that we
shall see a raised bunch only, not a long
" crinolette." which is the approved style at
present. The future extinction of the long.
waisted bodices now worn has been prophesied, as
the ribbon belts have proved so popular, but it
must be remembered that the latter are suited only
to a figure of youthful slimness, while the points and
long- wait are of far more general application. The
reception of waistcoats has been too gracious for them
to paes away very hurriedly, and the numerous styles
in which they are made—single, doable, treble,
chem,serte, Br4ton, &e.—shows their future popu-
larity. Every material is used for them from sateen
to kid and fine cb,th. Very handsomely embroidered
ones are also used, antique embroidery of the time of
the Georges being much admired. The points at the
hack and front of all bodices are made shorter, and
the bascinee only juk.t cover the beginning of the hip
just below the waist, the paniera or tunic coming out
in a puff immediately below it, which has the effect of
making the waist smaller.

THE rage for the full-bib plastrons, known as
" Moltere " in France, aid as "Fedora" in England,
is sometimes surprising. They are made in contrast-
ing silks, velvet, silk-muslin, crpe, foulard, snrah,
and " merveilleux " silk, and are of various kinds.
One extending from the throat to the end of the
waist, where the material is cleverly gathered, and
othe-s, like double frills, fill up the space betvnen
the cut-away basquee, while others, extend in one
puff, without strappings or gatherings of any descrip-
tion, from the throat to the point of the bodice. For
evening wear the "Fedora " will be an immense
acquisition, for it will c-..,nvert a plain morning gown
into an evening one, when made in clear muslins,
laces, or net, and pleated, strapped, or gathered
across, and trimmed with ribbons and lace. The
fancy for them is PO great that they are even used for
night dresses, with a full baggy bib, and are strapped
across with bands of embroidery.

Tax writer of the above-quoted article further re-
mark s :—Our old friend the much-liked polonaise of
yore is come back again, much to the satisfaction of
its old wearers, for no other form of dress was ever so
becoming to a good figure, and so little to be disliked
on a bad one. The plastron he used with it, both the
Img sharp V•shape reaching below the waist, the
short square. cut bib, and even large ones reaching to
the edge of the polonaise in front. One of the new
shapes is gathered on the shoulders, puffed to the
waist, in one long puff, and ends as a kind of Wilier,
hanging straight, with the outside edge carried to the
hack and hidden beneath the waterfall drapery, All
polonaises that are full at the waist have ribbons
fastened under the arm seam, and lightly tied in front,
finished with a handsome buckle, or looped at one
side. Souse polonaises are raised at one side, and
gathered into a great knot, hut of course this is only
practicable with soft materials.

ViTernau, shawl, puffed, and panier tunics are all
worn. The Watteau is the newest among them, and
is gathert d full into the belt ; it i 1 then caught up
twice on each side, a its to hang in festoons like cur.
tain2. The shawl shape is pointed at one side, while
puffed tunics hang in one deep puff all round, and the
panier tunic is crossed over under the points of the
h.,dice. Sleeves are made looser from the shoulder to
the elbow than they were, and are not perhaps quite so
much gather,-d on the top of the arm; hut they tit the
arm closely below the elbow, so that the long gloves
may go over them. Some of the new French mode
dresses have a new sleeve, which is cut like the old
" Raglan jacket" sleeve, without a seam on the
shoulder, running into the neck•band in a pointed
shape.

PErisiss are made in blouse-like form and have a
belt and bows at the waist, and a gathered front.
Some of them have a cape as well. These are made in
plain cloth and in waterproofed materials as well as
in silk. The mantles for the winter are of velvet
brocAde and are of the " visite " shape, with sleeves
coming from the back. The last cloak we shall name
is that with gathered sleeves, large and roomy, which
has been worn during the summer as a travelling
wrap, and will he used during the winter as a warm
or waterproofed mantle. The sleeve is sling•shaped,
and each side has buttons and buttonholes to clan it
up for warmth in cold weather. Capes have made
their appearance on many of these cloaks, and with
them close sleeves are used. The new cloth jackets
are very plain and tight fitting, made of brown or
grey cloth. They are, however, only used by young
girls. Pelisses will, we believe, be more worn than
anything else. They are most comfortable, are loose,
and large enough to cover up a pretty dress, but do
not deserve to be regarded as " undress," nor dowdy,
like an ordinary waterproof or ulster.

TFIE same authority says that amongst other changes
a very decided one has taken place in the fashion of
dressing the hair, which from being wound into a tiny
knot at the nape of the neck has suddenly been
elevated to the top of the head, where it is dressed in
A perfect basket network of plaits, or else in coils laid
in cap-like form, the front hair being curled or
crimpei. This change has, of course, Isffected the
form of the bonnets worn, which are much shorter at
the beck, in order to set well over the hair. The last
bonnet adopted by H.R.H. the Princess of Wales
was of straw, and had an open front, a knot of velvet
at the back, and velvet strings; the flowers being
fastened on the latter, and not on the bonmot itself,
"Princess bonnets " follow the new 'rode, and are
shorter in the back. Very small cap6te bonnets in
silk, with stiff rims, have been introduced, and are
likely to be worn during the winter.

OF the number of rich fabrics, which are de.tined
to play an important part in the conception of the
more elaborate toilettes, designed for autumn and
winter wear, terry velvet and ottoman brocaded with
velvet or plush, are undoubtedly the favourite mate-
rials, and will be largely used in combination with
fine cashmere, self•coloured velvet, plain ottoman and
shot silk. Some pretty silks for young ladies are in
dark colours, woven with fine lines of gold or tight
tints of the same shade. These are made up over
skirts of the swots material, but brocaled with tiny
sprays of berries, nuts, or miniature apples. Damas6e
silk for eve,,ing wear are in all the new colours, the
most stylish being Mandarin and crocus yellow, and a
peculiar blue-pink shade, like mother-o'-pearl. Richer
white silks are thickly ribbed and shot with pale
colours, yellow, green, or blue; the brocaded material
also used having large bunches of poppies, magnolias,
or mammoth roses in self or natural colours.

Noncresa the material for autumn dresses the Queen
in an article on "Lou on Fashions" says :—The shop
windows are full of the most enticing a, sortment of
Tweed cloths, Saxony wools, Cheviots and rine twilled
perg,es ; with broad awl narrow stripes, large and
minute checks-, and fancy plaids innumerable; and
these, in combination with plain material and reli-,veri
with velvet trimmings, will universally be adopted for
travelling, walking, arid morning wear. The plaited
skirt continues much in vogue, but bands of velvet or
checked material are sometimes introduced, placed
perpendirularly between the wide box plaits. The
short festooned tunic has gradually given place to
the more fully draped polonaise—a revival ot five
years ago—which bids fair to be once more the
fashionable style of overdress for the cming winter
season. All dresses—he they of habit-cloth, tweed,
serge, or any woollen material—are, however, made
in a simple, and in many cases an almost severe stile;
Perfect fit and excellence of workmanship alone being
relied on to produce the—we must say it " mannish "
effect which is, unhappily, the prevailing taste, and
especially noticeable in the present display of ladies'
tailor-made gowns. These costumes, nevertheless, are
decidedly the moole, and have their legitimate uses,
being very appropriate for rough-country wear, the
moors and highlands of Scotland, or for climbing and
touring purposes, when an elaborately draped gown
would be obviously useless and out of place.

IN its article on "Paris Fashions," the same journal
says :—The new woollens are soft vivognea in many
colours, covered with largs designs in chenille of soft
shades; and Indian cashmeres broch4 with designs in
cross-stitch. Chenille is also introduced into camel's-
hair serges, and there are pine cones made of chenille,
and tied in pairs at intervals over dark woollen
grounds of contrasting colour. Thus, grey chenille
cones are on red cloth, and grey cones are on shot-red
and green serge grounds, and brown cones are on green
grounds. The rough bison cloths that Parisians have
worn for travelling dresses reappear in new styles—
plain, with a shagay surface, again in wide stripes, or
else with half of the width plain and the other half
striped. Tkere are also loved cloths, like astrachan.
Some of the bison cloths are embroidered in a quaint
outline fashion, and in bright colours. The soft
woollens, with printed figures representing cross-
stitch designs are similar to the crosa•stitch cam-
brics worn dining the summer, and are not so
novel as the machine-embroidered costumes that have
embroidery in tapestry stitches of odd bright colours
on dull, faded grounds.

PROFESSOR -NORDENSKSOLVS- j
GREENLAND EXPEDITION.
• Telegram.; received at. Copenbagen from ProfeesOi
Nordenskjold, dated Thurso, state that the expedition'
commenced its voyage on.theiee at AutleitiWik On the
4th Jalyisst. Sledge parties tieeded ikprocioing.
for a distarme-'70f130 kilothetreff;" and' in teadhing',..a'
height of siooo feet.,--. The Lap/anders then Coiltinied:
the journey iowlow stibes'fer- W further 2gficilotieli,'
and to a-height-of T,OOO feet. ' . The whole of the're,giok.
traversed ,wan tIV-kleeert Of iCe , 'tritis.'proving then.ori-
existe*ceof .apen watet' intatiV,:lt.is stated that thie`;
is the first time that human beings have penetrated'
so far into the interior of Greenja,,n4.,.----;.,;.
An expearaon "aesp. , tat; AippAarne time to the
-
North .Western coast- de ileztl'Obt4"l4itil. .
scientific infiiilialitiOtis,
Ihe researchfin' ad't:l7. I'Vafftasnr. ttadinskJ old '
show that the cold stream on the E4stern coast is un-
important, and that the coast may therefore as a rule
be acceFsible to steamers in the autumn. The expedi..
tion returns via Raykiwsik;.,,,-- ~ • .

A terrible explosion has taken place at a mine nea
Mina, in the Rhineland, killing fifteen miners, and
injuring three others.

TERRIBLE EXPLOSION AT WOOLWICH
ARSENAL.

DESTRUCTION OF A ROCKET FACTORY.

An explosion of a very seriou4 character took place on
Monday morning At the Rocket Factories, Woolwich
Arsenal. The fire, the cause of which is notknown, broke
out in the building in which the rockets were painted
and packed, and for nearly an hour war rockets of
the most dangerous type were flying about in
all directions, falling in Woolwich, Plumstead, North
Woolwich, and Silvertown, and in the River Thames.
The building known as the Armoury was also on fire
several times, and ultimately was wrecked. In the
factory in which the disaster had originated the fira
was allowed to burn itself out.

As may be supposed, the utmost excitement and
alarm prevailed in the Arsenal and the town, and it
was feared much loss of life must have resulted from
the random flight of hundreds of rockets. It is a
fortunate and remarkable circumstance, however,
that fatalities were very few.
The first intimation given to the large town sur-
rounding the Arsenal, and to the men engaged in the
Government work of the danger, was a sharp explo-
sion soon after ten o'clock in the morning, and this was
followed by a second. The sound is described as some-
thirg less sharp than a 40-pounder Armstrong, but
coming from where they did and not front, the marshes,
the greatest alarm was raised outside. There are 8,000
men engaged at work within the Government walls, and
their homes being within sound of the untoward explo•
don, wives and a crowd of persons seeking their relatives
and friends were soon gathered around the gates of the
Arsenal. Explosion could be heard following explo-
pion, and some prejectiles passed through the air at
no great distance from the getes, and this increased
the anxiety. The fire brigade men at the NA, oolwich
Arsenal Station heard the first explosion, and at
once turned out their engine, and were enabled to
proceed with three Arsenal engines to the store
part of the latoratory, on the eastern side of the
Arsenal, where it was found t tat a war-rocket store
was on fire. To deal with the fire here was a work
of great danger, and of no little difficulty. The
loaded rockets were now and again bursting forth,
and there was not only the danger of individual de-
struction by being struck with one of these projectiles,
some of which contained loaded shells, but there was
the extreme and fearful danger of one of those loaded
shells dropping into the stores of poweiful explosives
kept in the other stores of the laboratory. The men
engaged in these other stores took hasty precautions
to cover up the dangerous compounds, and then,
while the hail of the rockets lasted, cleared out of
their several departments.
The rocket store on fire was one of aline of buildings
built of brick, isolated from ore another, and about
70ft. by 24f t., and only one storey in height. The
building was separated into compartments, one being a
room where the rockets were painted, the others being
the stores. It was in the painting room where the ex-
plosion first occurred, and of its cause no account is
likely to be given, for when the firemen and Arsenal
men had extinguished the dangerous fames, the two
persons who were believed to be the sole occupants of
the room, were both found dead. It was evident that
an explosion had killed both on the instant, for the
younger, a lad aged 17, named Daniel Carlick, was
found to be almost utterly destroyed, while the other,
a man aged 30, named Richard Stevenson, had his
head nearly blown off. The superintendent of the
Royal Laboratory, Colonel Lyon, 8.A., super-
intended the work of extinguishing the fire, and
in taking measures for preventing its extension.
By the greatest f nesight the stores of these dan-
gerous materia!s have been carefully guarded, and
the danger of an extension of explosion mini-
rnized. A canal separates these store-houses from
the Arsenal itself on the west, and on the east
several ranges separate the stores from the magazine.
All the ammunition is loaded into barges on the canal,
under the moat c4reful precautions, and at high
water the barges are navigated into the Thames, to
carry their dan erons loads to other magazines.
Under these safeguards, and with this wise foresight,
Woolwich Arsenal has long had an immunity from
daneerous explosions, and the limit of evil results on
Monday, in the face of enormous dangers, affords a
proof, if proof were needed, of the organized care and
vigilance exercised in the storage and handling of these
things of war.
Captain Shaw, C. 8., has received the following official
report cf the damage caused by the explosion from the
Fire Brigade Superintendent of the Woolwich Dis-
trict :—" A. brick building of one floor, about 70ft. by
25fr., used as rocket painting shop, and the contents,
burnt out, and the roof off; rest of building and con-
tents severely damaged by explosion; armoury and
contents damaged by fire and water, and roof of rocket
store and window glass of office by breakage. Richard
Stevenson, aged 80 years, and Daniel Carlick, aged 17
years, killed by explosion."

We extract the following account of the explosion
from The Times of Tuesday :

A fearful explosion, or rather series of explosions,
occurred yesterday morning at the Royal Arsenal,
Woolwich, which at one time, it was feared, would
have resulted in a very serious loss of life. The first
intimation of the affair was the discharge of a war
rocket, which was immediately followed by a low
rumbling sound resembling the falling of a build-
ing composed of corrugated iron. The utmost excite-
ment was at once aroused, for it was apparent that
something unusual had occurred, and women and
children were to be seen hurrying with all speed to
the various gates of the Royal Arsenal. Meanwhile,
the explosions continued with unabating force. The
scene, as viewed from an eminence, was grand in the
extreme ; at each fresh outburst a number of those
Immense war rockets, from 20 to 60 or 100 in number,
going off in all directions at one time. This continued
at frequent intervals for the space of about an hour
until all in the building had exploded, each outburst
being accompanied by a report similar to the first,
The building in which the explosion occurred is one
of a number of similar buildings, situate in the pro-
scribed part of the Royal Arsenal, beyond the canal.
They are all strongly built of brick, the interior
dimensions being 20't. by 43ft. They are all sub,
stantially constructed, with flooring 3in, thick,
and corrugated iron roofs. Inside the building
was furnished with three rows of tables on
trestles, on whi..lll the rockets were placed. The
building was used for the purpose of painting the
rockets, one steady man, with an assistant, being
employed on that di- ty. It is estimated that when
the explosion occurr >d there were about 600 of Hale's
rockets in the build ng at the time, consisting of a few
nine-pounders, but the principal portion were 24.
pounders. Hale 's rockets have no stick, being kept
point foremost by the rotation given from the gas
pressing against three curved shields fixed to the three
vents. In addition to these, there were a number of
Boxer's 12-pounder rockets for life-saving purposes.
These are used to carry a line over a stranded ship,
and by that means establish a communication for the
purpose of carrying a hawser and sling, by which two
or three men may travel together to the shore.

Colonel F. Lyon, Royal Artillery, Superintendent
of the Laboratory Department, was, on the explosion
becoming known, soon at the scene of the outbreak,
and took every precautionary means to prevent the
same spreading. The police belonging to the Royal
Arsenal were also early at the outbreak, and under
the direction of Mr. Superintendent Hindes, with
Police Inspector Keevill, rendered efficient service.
Not much could be done to put out the fire, owing
to the continual discharges of rockets which took
place, but precautions were taken to confine the fire
to the building in which it commenced. In the most
adjacent building—that- need for experimental pur-
poses for small arms—a quantity of tins contaking
powder were taken out and placed for safety in the
canal, and all the men and lads employed in the
buildings adjacent were ordered to leave off work, the
boys being sent home to allay the excitement, which
was on the increase in the neighbourhood.

The way in which the rockets flew over the river
into Essex, over Woolwich, and into the marshes was
most extraordinary, audit is considered nothing short
of a miracle that many lives were not escriHced. One
rocket struck ttie newly.erscii-.d Board school in the
Plurostead-road and passed completely through the
wall into the girls' school room, fortunately without
striking any one ; another struck the wall in Artillery •
place, Woolwich, a distance of
.two miles, knocked a
portion down, and sent one brick completely across
the road, breaking a window in a shop opposite.
Similar rockets alighted in the counting•house of
Messrs. Paine and 3ns, High•street, Woolwich, and
at the rear of Mr. Drake's, Green•end, destroying
flight of stone steps; another passed clean through
the Arsenal wall and another into the Slade's School,
Pluinstead-commoo.

When all the rockets had exploded, the firemen
were enabled more effectually to bring their hose from
the different engines drawn up on the banks of the
canal to bear on the flames, whioh had, however,
gained such a hold of the entire building that it was
scarcely possible anything could be saved. By dint
of great exertions the flames were at length subdued,
and soon afterwards the firemen were enabled to
enter the building; but only the cbarred remains of
one of the unfortunate men was discovered, quite un•
recognizable, everything combustible having been de-
stroyed. Soon afterwards the mangled remains of the
other man were found in the adjacent marshes. It is
believed that Ihe latter must have been in the act of
screwing on a cap when the rocket against which he
was leaning at the time exploded, passing completely
throsigh him, and at the same time hurling him out
of the building to the place where he was found.

Fortunately only two men wera at the time em-
ployed in the building, Ir,th of whom, as before stated,
perished. Thcse, therefore, who could have given
correct information as to the cause of the sad accident
are no more. The men who were killed were Richard
Stevenson, aged 37, residing at Frederick•place, Plum-
stead, who has left a wife and two children; and
Daniel Carlick, aged 18, single. Stevenson was a
steady, well•conducted, and frugal man, having been
employed in the department since he WWI a boy.

The appearance of the building showed the intense
heat-which had been created. The immense girders.
.supporting the roof were twisted and curled into all
sort-v.-of shapes. The walls on the inside had the
appearance Of having withstood a siege. In several
-places' the roc:tete had passed through, and in some
instances had embedded themselves in the walls. One
-of the rockets had firmly fixed itself into the steam
pipe fneitlis the building, and several of the columns
whichVipnorted-the steam pipes for the supply of
[dean:tile' the different shops. bad been struck by
-rcrknts and' broken In two. The building occupied
bt the Small Arms Experiniental 13ranch was a
;pdrfect wreck. .s.'he doore were. shot away, windqvis
'-denforrshfttrit' andlhe brickwork 'knocked down in
imtrs places In the inside alniost, everything was
inoek&d*ofiullaae. itaCks containing carbines
and pistole.vitre Upset, and the general aspect of
the place was one of destruction.

It isCn-naidered most fortunate that the rockets in
their Precarious flight did not do more damage than
they did. Had one of the 24-pounders penetrated
either of the immense gasometers which are about
200 yards distant on the other side of the canal the

result would have..been fearful to contemplate. One
of the rockets pv.sed co:npleti-ly through the roof of
one of the workshops attached to the gas corks, and
mvny of the rockets travelled for three or four miles
before they alighted. In addition to the engines
belonging ta the Roval Arsenal, engines arrived from
Sun street, bhooter's hill, and ether pla,les, but,
fortunately, their services were not required.

A correspondent writing from North Woolwich,
says the shock caused by the alarming explosion at
the Arsenal, was felt on that side of the river in a very
distinct and unpleasant manner, and created the
utmost consternation. The general impression was
that the boilers belonging to some stamship on the
river had exploded, but by many it was thought
the shock was due to an earthquake. A rush
was made to the Royal Albert Docks, but in
a few minutes afterwards the canse was apparent,
smoke and flame rising from the Royal Arsenal, fol-
lowed by a shower of rockets in all directions. For a
few minutes the noise of the explosion increased in
volume, and then gradually died away; but every
now and then a whizzing sound through the air, as
another rocket winged its flight, tended to keep up the
alarm and excitement.

An eye-witness describes the effect of the explosion
as follows :—" Standing at the Barge Houee '
Tavern, about half a mile from the scene of the explo-
sion, I heard a great noise, and my firat impression
was that a steam boiler belonging to one of the boats
on the river had exploded. The first thing I saw
was a rocket, some eighteen inches in lem, th, which
came across the river and buried itself about three feet
in the ground a short &stance from me. I was very
much startled at the time, and on looking towards the
river I saw numerous other rockets, probably about
twenty, which were thrown a great height, and then
fell into the river. One fell into the ordens of the
Smith Woolwich Hotel, and buried itself to a con-
siderable depth.''

It has been definitely ascertained that the number
of war rockets which were in the rocket factory which
exploded at WoJlwich on Monday was 770, and, as
only about 200 were found to have burst inside the
building, it follows that upwards of five hundred of
thePe dreadful projectiles must have been scattered
abroad over the surrounding district. Nearly every-
body in the two towns of Woolwich and Plumstead
can supply sr,me narrative of a narrow escape.

Mr. E. A. Carttar, coroner for West Kent, cora-
menced an inquest on Tuesday at the Town-hall,
Woolwich, on the bodies of the two persons killed by
the explosion of rockets on Monday. Evidence of
identity was taken, and the inquest was adjourned.