The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1884-05-24 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS'.

Wrro the anticipation of wanner as well as brighter'
weather' comes the necessity for lighter fabrics for
every-day' wear; and in an article on "London
Fashions," the Queen gives the following hints on the
preirailing taste: Fine cashmeres and other woollen
stuffs, are greatly used, either embroidered in small
geometrical patterns, or spotted with chenille; the
latter are placed in. groups, and are sometimes of
several shades. Some have fine lines of colour, in
groupings of three or five, red, on a deep blue growid,
crimson on fawn or drab, and gold on brawn or green.
The polonaise bodice, if made of blue striped material,
has the drapery of the skirt lined with taffetas, shot
with harmonious tints, which also borders the skirt as,
a plain or scalloped band.

SELF-COLOURED fine twilled cloth is a capital fabric
for young ladies' morning wear in shades of green or
dull " wood " brown, mastic or butcher-blue, or-grey,
which continue most fashionable. The plain round,
skirts are fully gathered at the waist, and edged with,
narrow kilting ; the close-fitting bodice is everywhere.
trimmed with a ruche of soft shot silk. A costume of
" woodpigeon-grey " (made as here described) had on
the jai ket a ruching of grey and pink, which also
surrounded the basque, was carried up the front, and
trimmed both the neck and sleeves; the felt hat
matched exactly, and the feathers were grey and
pink. Plain silks, sicilienne, the revived gros-grain
and faille, will be much worn by elderly ladies,
matrons, and young married women, with overskirts
of canvas gauze, broche with velvet designs, and out-
lined with small cut beads. The beadwork is most
effective in black, and all rich shades in accordance
with, or distinct from, the colour of the velvet leaves,
or whatever the pattern may be. For the front of a
ball dress, a white silk gauze with a pattern of grapes
and leaves, the fruit of dull gold beads, the leaves
merely outlined and veined, is unique in its elegant
richness, and brown silk canvas, with leaves of the
chestnut in velvet, and broidered in shaded beads, is
equally handsome and beautiful.

TILE Paris correspondent of the sams journal says
that the costumes for morning walks, excursions,
are still " tailor-made," and in such materials as
fine cloth, shot serge, and mohair, either grey, dark
blue, or brown. The cloth and serge are trimmed
with silk braid to match, in which a thin thread of
gold is intermixed; the mohair is ornamented with
wide braid of the same, sewn flat on the skirt and on
the edge of the bodice. There are also dark blue
cloth costumes trimmed with red braid. For after-
noon carriage dresses, and for calling, or visiting the.
Salon, shot and striped silks are in favour, with man-
telettes to match, trimmed with pinked-out silk
ruches; also costumes of plain and broche nun's
veiling, the broch6 being small mauve, blue, or brick..
red flowers on ground of contrasting colour. The
veiling is made up either as large draped polonaises,
or ti.s blouses gathered on the shoulders and crossed
on the chest. Costumes of thick ecru embroidery
over pink, red, blue, and moss-green faille are
favourites for the Bois promenades.

REFERRING to the subject of millinery a writer in
the Queen says: Bonnets are still small-shaped, but
higher in the crowns than before. Open-work, straw-
plaited braidsnd gilded and silvered string are all
much used for the crowns of fashionable bonnets;
while gold-mbroidered canvas, jetted and silk-worked
net, and terry outlined with beads, are as widely and
equally favoured. A very stylish bonnet, worn at a
"high-life' wedding, had a brim of cut jet beads,
and a puff crown of black net spotted with single beads.
In the front of the crown, and immediately over the
forehead, were two large bouquets of most natural-
looking lilies of the valley, made up as market
bunches, and laid across, the stalks tied together with
narrow pale blue velvet, on which was a diamond bee;
the strings were of velvet, with made-up bow, and on
it were several bees. What shall we say of the velvet
lizards, toads, and other reptiles now to be seen in
our shops, and intended to decorate our bonnets and
loop up the lace of our ball gowns? Very cleverly
made, no doubt, but too fearfully real to be pleasant
when first we descry them, all unprepared, crouche4
in clusters of blossoms, or wandering mid folds of,
lace. We have also seen aquatic weeds, Nature's own"
self in appearance, among which are disporting the
fishes of the river, with velvet and metal-washed
scales.

THAT indispensable adjunct to a fashionable outfit—
the parasol—is presented this season in a perplexing
variety of styles. Our contemporary already quoted
has a special article on the subject, from which we
make the following extracts: Although the weather
has not been conducive to much display in the streets
and parks, the shop windows and the show rooms of
milliners are gay with dainty arrangements of lace
and satin, brocade and muslin. At present the simple
en tout cas, with its stout stick and knobbed or gnarled
handle, is more in use than anything else for morning
wear, and recently it has been embellished with a
good-sized satin bow near the handle, with, in a few
cases, a small satin bag attached containing the
" show " handkerchief. One or two en tout cas have
appeared with alternate divisions of black and dark
shot silk, but, as a rule, they are all of black or dark
colour. Black lace parasols will be more generally
used than light ones, on all occasions and for any
costume, and these are wonderfully varied. Some are
of fluted net, powdered with chenille dots, over
transparent foundations, edged with deep
gathered lace, and ornamented with a deli-
cate wreath of grass near the ferrule, with
a spray of poppies and corn on one eide, and crossed
ears of grain, fixed with jet beads at each point.
Others are partially transparent, but have " gauged "
black satin to some depth at the top. Some black and
also ecru lace parasols have two or three rows of
delicate blue or red chenille-worked lace skillfully in-
serted at the edge. On many the lace is turned up and
secured to the ferrule, hiding it altogether. This is
particularly new, and looks well. Black lace arranged
in rows, round and round on a satin or silk parasol,
is enlivened by loops of red and black, or all black,
satin ribbon, half an inch wide, put in just at the edge
above the fall, and also in clusters half-way up
on one side and at the ferrule on the other and on the
handle. In ecru and cream lace the ribbons match
in colour. This gives a very dressed look. Black
flounced net and Chantilly lace is put over red, gold
grey, or white foundations. For these lace and net-
"`"4r"""""1 ^. "'s", shame called Dome is the
novelty, the material being fun, .... —.... ~oe, n- i
wards, in imitation of the ordinary appearance of a
dome. The Japanese and the usual shapes are also I
popular. Cream, ecru, and black spotted Swiss muslin
is to be used, and later on, flowered muslin, profusely
trimmed with lace. Jet is a great deal seen on black
lace, sometimes in the form of one large or several
smaller butterflies, or as swallows in a flight, gra-
duated in size, with the largest at the ferrule. It is
also lightly mixed among the lace fall at the edge, or
as an elongated initial letter on satin or silk. The jet
balls, made over cork, are arranged with good effect,
either round the edge, scattered over, or as one cluster
at the top, attached to a smart little bow. Large cut
jet beads fasten down all the fulness at the edge of
other parasols, placed at distances. This style is still
greatly in favour, with pearl and other beads, for
light-coloured parasols, or with handsome fancy
buttons of any kind. On silk and satin parasols, lace
arranged in the form of a large butterfly on each
divisien, or velvet convolvulus leaves and tendrils,
appliqued on as an encircling wreath, or small groups
of black, grey, or white—according to the colour of
the cover—cocks' feathers, fastened with chenille
ornaments, are all popular. Turkish embroidery
is also in favour, laid on as a 1. 3rder, or
as diamond-shaped medallions in each divi-
sion, finished off with a row of chenille.
These medallions are in reality from the sets that
were originally intended, and sent over from Bulgaria,
for d'oyleys, centres of pin-cushions, and small mats.
The cream Turkey crepe, with the same embroidery,
composes many of the parasol covers. Satin, bordered
with a fringe of marabout, or the whole shape covered
with the same, is novel, and also shot silk, arranged
in a succession of full little flounces from edge to
ferrule. Other favourite materials are ottoman silk,
trimmed with a profusion of lace; velvet gauze and
frig satin. Shaded sateen parasols, with Chinese
designs of fish, birds, and flowers, are used by young
ladies, and also sateen covered with Swiss lace in one
piece, both of which are inexpensive. Cashmere
parasols are novel, but are made to order usually,
with lace or jet, or vandyked edge. The mushroom
colour is making its way, but it is not very different
from the shades of ecru of last season. It is to be
Iseen in lace, in satin, and in net, and it looks well
relieved by a touch of deep brown, especially in velvet.

HANDLES cannot be too fanciful, if they are works
of art in any way, old-fashioned, or peculiar. The
coral, ivory, and Venna jewelled ones are not scr
much seen perhaps as plain varnished wood, with
bows of ribbon, Japanese chopsticks, grotesque designs
in wood, and worked gold and silver; but for full
dress they: are displayed. German amethyst handles,
of graduated beads strung together, with a gold pin
run through artd a fancy head, are very handsome,
with a small circle of beads to form a ferrule. Un-
varnished cherry wood, twisted into a knot at the top
and handle, are more generally seen on everyday
parasols; but there is endless variety, and diversity
enough to please the most fastidious.

His Mornua ToNoun.—A Yorkshireman, having
occasion to visit France, was bewildered, on reaching
Calais, to find that everybody spoke French. In the
height of the perplexity which this occasioned, he
retired to bed, and was awakened in the morning by
the cock crowing, whereupon he burst into an ex-
clamation of astonishment and delight, "Thank
goodness, there's English at last!"
OvEa-PaEsscßE.—A little girl was sent the other
day to buy some lace. The shopman, after putting
up the package, said, "Well, there are one and a half
yards of lace at twopence halfpenny a yard; how
much does it come to? " To which the miss pertly
replied, "Well, I'm not going to tell; I have to
study arithmetic all the rest of the week, and rra not
going to bother my head with it on Saturday."
A SAD Loss.—" I'm not going on any more of those
excursion rides," said a young man in a crowded
train. "There's such a crowding and a hauling,
nobody can tell what he's about. Here I've lost my
wife and my cane; such a nice new cane. too!" he
stided. dolefully.

u•••

_ .

VABLETY IN PLANTING.'-

A very large number of trees andgants, inhabiewite
of various parts of the globe, are capable of flouriL'li-
j-og in our climate, without protection, quite or nearl.7
as well as in their native habitats (says land and
licat4r). Nearly, all the finest of these have. already
been introduced into this country, partly by Botanists
and travellers, bu: mostly by practical gardenr's sent
out by and at the mpense of enterprising nursevyrnen
and horDsulturists. These beautiful productions, of
nature are,. therefore, rocurable here in almost end-
less variety,, and by the- art of scientific growers ha
been so multiplied that the cost of most of them has'
become insignificant. Some of these foreisn trees and
shrubs are conzpicuous for the beauty of their flowers,
some for the elegance of their foliage, some for their'
gigantic growth and majestic aspect; andthere are few.
indeed which do not present some claim to, notice, if
not to admiration. Supposing these to be freely plant ed‘
and distributed over the face Of the country, inter-
spersed with our own favourite oaks and eltns, what.
fresh charms would they not lend to our landscape
Although there are, of course, many exceptions, yet,
as a rule, our shrubberies at present consist chiefly of
a very limited number of species, most of which were -
known to and cultivated by our ancestors; and as all
plantations now contain pretty nearly the same trees,
and shrubs, the result is that all the beauty they may:
boast of (mid that is much, although it 'night be more),
cannot redeem them from the charge of monotony,.
common forest trees for belts—the almond, laburnum,
hawthorn, and lilac as flowering trees; the laurel,.
laurestine, and aucuba for evergreens; the rose, rhodo-
dendron, and azalea for flowering shrubs; the ivy, Ameri-
can, creeper, and wistaria for climbers. In these con-
sists,,so far as trees and shrubs are concerned, the
poverty-stricken bill of fare of the vast majority of
our gardens. To these might be added several
hundreds of trees and shrubs, which would thrive as
well and afford at least as much ornament with infi-
nitely greater variety. How is it planters limit them-
selves to a few old species 1' The reasons are many.
Some persons are indifferent—some are not aware
of the profusion of novel forms of beauty accessible
to them—many are aware of it, but are deterred by
erroneous notions of the expense and difficulty of
priocuring them. But most numerous of all are -they
who, while they would be only too glad to adorn their
grounds with a large variety of fine plants, are without
any guide to the selection of the species best suited to
their respective requirements.

CHAMOIS SHOOTING IN THE TYROL.
The Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News says:.
The chamois are so shy that you must use extra-
ordinary precautions in stalking them. First, you
must go out before dawn and be on the spot when the.
sun rises, which put into plain English means that
you must leave your downy (or otherwise) couch al
somewhere near 3.30 a.m. After a couple of hours
climbing in the dark you arrive at the happy hunting
ground, so take a breather and pull out your tele-
scope. Six days out of seven you don't see anything
resembling your game, so proceed very quietly after
your jager, keeping a sharp look-out on all sides.
It is getting daylight, and woe to you if you snake
a noise or sudden movement, as coupled with a low
gattural oath from your faithful but impolite Jager, you
may hear a faint rattle of stones far above your
head, which means that the buck you've come after
has disappeared for the day, without even vouchsafing
a glimpse of himself. Lees suppose, however, that
no such mischance has occurred, and that your hench-
man has caught sight of a moving dark red spot the
other side of the " kaar" or valley. Now comes the
second and most exciting part of the performance.
Bending low and taking advantage of every stone and
stump, you crawl carefully along on hands and knees
(the stones are uncommonly sharp, you'll find) till
you get within shot. The obstacles you encounter are
varied and irritating. o,7asionally you come across
a hitherto unseen Foung precipice, or a slippery steep
wall that you have to get round as best you can; you
must not use the spiky end of your alpenstock, or
the chamois will hear the clink and be off. Once
the obstacle surmounted, you find yourself in
a jungle of " latschen," a frightfully tough
and tangly fir shrub, as high as your head,
If you can, avoid them, for they are fatal.
The chamois will see them wobble, and depart.
The ‘‘ latschen " passed, there is a smooth frozen
" reisen," or slope of little stones which you have to
rush—you can't get across it slowly. At last you turn
the last corner, and if your chamois is there still, well
and good, shoot him. Probably he won't have waited
for you, but bolted whilst you were in the jungle. If
so, preserve your equanimity., if possible, and look out
for another—you won't seoyour old friend again. The
driving is not half such good sport as the stalking, the
chief requisites being patience and absolute quiet,
sometimes for hours in three inches of snow. Even
when the chamois do come (if they come at all) they
are awfully hard to hit on the run, bolting from rock
to rock. It is extraordinary what steep places they
get up with no visible hold for their spongy little
hoofs,