The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1884-01-19 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

AMONG the fashionable gatherings which demand a
passing notice in a column devoted to the subject of
dress, is the private view of the Exhibition of Old
Masters, which recently took place in London, at
Burlington House, and which was unusually well
attended. From eleven o'clock in the morning, till
six in the evening, the salons presented a brilliant and
animated scene. The skilfully arranged lighting
enhanced the rich hues of the costumes, and showed
off the beauty of the framed masterpieces on the walls.
There was less quaintness about the costennee, and
more variety of colour than usual. The artistic shades
of green, blue, and gold were few and far between,
and ruby, sapphire, blue, and brown were decidedly
in the majority. There were a great many of the
long cloaks in phph, trimmed with soft marabout
feathers, hiding entlrely the dress beneath, and there
were as many of the short round baFque jackets,
In coloured cloth, velvet, and plash, bordered
with marabout, and matching exactly, or con-
trasting entirely, with the skirt. Several of the jackets
had epaulets of marabout, which looked well on
shoulders that were not too high, and others had cord
looped across the fronts, ending in tassels at each side,
or braided in military style in silver or gold, One
magnificent mantle, covering a tall figure, was of
sapphire plush, lined with satin, bordered with the
same shade of feathers, and fastened in front with blue
steel clasps: this was worn with a blue steel bonnet,
and tuft of sapphire feathers, the strings fastened with
a sapphire and diamond bar brooch. As a contrast,
another figure was dressed from head to font in apple.
green, even bonnet, plume, dtc. One lady wore a
bonnet composed entirely of the plumage of a white
bird, tied with ruby velvet strings, and adorned on one
side with nearly a dozen humming birds; her dress
matched her bonnet strings. On black dresses, jet was
most profuse, and on dark velvets sables were freely
displayed. There was a goodly show of diamonds,
principally displayed in brooches fastening the bonnet
strings, several being placed very near the right ear.
A somewhat original necklet consisted of a broad
ribbon, threaded through a number of finger rings.

A MARRIAGE in high life took place last week at S.
Paul's Church, Knightsbridge, when some prettY cos-
tumes were seen. The bride's bodice and long loose,
square train were of white brocaded velvet; the skirt
being of white satin, trimmed with Oarrickmacross
lace. Tbe drapery of satin, edged with thick chenille
fringe, was looped up with ostrich feathers and white
velvet ribbon. Over a small wreath of real orange 'blos-
soms she wore a tulle veil, fastened to the hsir by a
diamond swallow brooch, the bridegroom's gift, and
numerous diamond pins; her jewels included a
diamond necklace, a present from her brother. The
three children who officiated as bridesmales were
dressed in white plush coats trimmed with white fur,
confined at the waist by a white satin band, over-
dresses of white Build), and white plush "granny"
bonnets, trimmed with white satin ribbon. A relative
of the bride wore grey brocaded velvet (in two shades)
and satin trimmed with marabout to correspond wir,h
the darker shade, and bonnet of grey plush with
feathers to match.

Tin Paris correspondent of the Queen writes :
January is the month for receptions, when visiting
costumes play an important role. The two newest I
remarked were admirably suited for afternoon calling.
The first was copper-brown vicuna, made with a short
Hungarian jacket, which fastened at the waist over a
full plastron; the edge of the skirt and jacket were
bordered with marabout, and the muff was entirely of
feathers. The bonnet was copper-brown velvet, witia
rich feather aigrette at the side. The second and more
elegant costume was seal-brown satin, trimmed with
real seal fur; the short train was brocade to match, and
plaited. The bodice opened over a full plastron of old
Mechlin lace and a small bouquet of real 'violets; the
brown plush bonnet was trimmed with Mechlin and a
cluster of pale yellow feathers; the long seal mantle
was left in the antechamber of the salon, as is the
custom when the dress is smart.

MN same writer says that woollen costnmes
are decidedly popular; fine, soft stuffs of light weight
and colour, such as the new golden-brown, cuir, and
French grey, and a contrasting colour is often used to
brighten them up, this being introduced in the stand-
ing collar, small turned over cuffs, and balayeuse.
The newest idea is to have this contrast in wool,
although velvet is still used for the purpose. Camel's
hair, bison cloth, French cashmere, and Indian cash-
mere woven wiih the zigzag Chuddah lines are in
favour for these woollen costumes.

A LONDON contemporary devotes a special article to
the opportune subject of " Winter Dress," in which
the writer says :—The crinolette is now seeing its last
days cf existence, lingering sm it does among the indi•
viduals of that section of society which wears " last
year's dresses." A disposition towards a returning
plaieness of skirt is very evident, all fulness }Mug
again restricted to the back, where many folds produce
the necessary effect without the intervention of inartis-
tically rigid and impracticable steels or flounces of
most unmanageable buckram. The one essential, as
regards the bodice, is perfection of fit. The shoulder
seam is still short; the sleeve still high. The waist
retains its normal length, and the hips are permitted
to occupy the position assigned to them by nature.
There is nothing exaggerated in the plesent style, and
even an undue tightness is not considered chic. The
Immaculate fit presents an unwrinkled surface without
any sign of undue pressure anywhere.

Tint favourite materials for dresses arc those of
woollen texture, which combine lightness and warmth.
Velvet is much used for skirts, and may be plain or
patterned, according to the taste of the wearer. The
soft English make of velveteen, known as the Louis, is
frequently substituted for silk velvet. The invariable
rule for dress skirts is that they shall be edged with a
frill of velvet or silk, and under that with a second frill
of muslin and lace or embroidery.

FROlf an hygienic aspect, the selection of appro-
priate chaussure is at this season all important, and
on this subject a writer in the Daily News says: Since
high heels have totally disappeared from boots and
shoes worn in the street a reaction in favour of very
low heels threatened to set in. Recent muddy weather,
however, has proved the necessity that exists for at
least an inch of heel to raise the body of the boot or
shoe above the mud. There have been those even
whose desires outran the mode of the day, and called
for the useful, if somewhat cumbrous, clog or pattsn
of a former time. London mud, especially, has an
aptitude for following the guidings of capillary attrac-
tion, and has by its means been known to reach a dis-
tressing height upon trousers and skirts. Doctors
talk learnedly about the evil of damp petticoats, but
it may be that damp trousers have even more to
answer for, clinging to the legs so much more closely
than do a woman's skirts, and occasionally kept
in wear with a masculine obstinacy which acknow-
ledges the advisability of a change, but resolutely re-
fuses the necessary exertion. A woman's high boots,
too, are more protective to the legs than a man's, so
that though the discomfort of muddy and clingieg
petticoats is very great, yet there are compensatory
penalties to be taken into consideration on the other
side. Despite mud and damp, however, it is im-
probable that the high heel will again be introduced
unless, indeed, it should be accompanied by a com-
paratively equal height in the sole of the shoe.