The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1884-03-29 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

Tun second Drawing Room of the season was held
on the 20th inst., when the Princess of Wales again
represented her Majesty. Her Royal Highness wore
a dress of the richest poncean satin embroidered in
white syringe, over an underdress of satin and finest
point de gage. Corsage to correspond. Train of
ponceau velvet lined in satin and trimmed with the
same costly lace. Head-dress—a tiara of diamond
stars, feathers and veil. Ornaments—pearls and dia-
monds. Orders—Victoria and Albert, the Crown of
India, St. Catherine of Russia, St. John of Jerusalem,
the Royal Red Cross, and the Danish Family Order.
Her Royal Highness Princess Christian of Schles-
wig-Holstein wore a train and corsage of red
velvet over a petticoat of red satin handsomely
draped with black Brussels lace fastened up
with red poppies and trimmed with red and gold
bead embroidery. Head-dress—a tiara of diamonds,
veil and feathers. Ornaments—diamonds. Orders—
the Victoria and Albert, the Crown of India, St.
Catherine of Russia, the Saxe-Coburg Family Order,
the Prussian Order for the Care of the Sick and
wounded, the Order of Louise of Prussia, the Order of
St. John of Jerusalem, and the Order of the Royal
Red Cross. Her Royal Highness Princess Beatrice
wore a dress of cream satin duchesse, with draperies
of crepe, held up with bunches of pink shaded
feathers; train of satin brocade lined with pink and
trimmed to correspond. Head-dress—feathers, veil
and diamond stars. Ornaments—diamonds. Orders
—Victoria and Albert, the Crown of India, St.
Catherine of Russia, St. Isabella of Portugal, the
Royal Red Cross, and the Saxe-Coburg and Gotha
Family Order.

UNDER the head of "Dress and Fashion," a corres-
pondent of the Queen gives a description of the new
manufactures of silks and velvets, from which we
make the following extracts: The fancy silks pro-
perly so called are this season of a limited character;
detached floral, set, and geometrical designs are those
most in vogue; some of the best are taffetas faconne,
the ground of shot taffetas, and the flower (a daisy)
in the two shades that form the shot effect of the
ground. The tones, as is the case with all shot
silks, are very soft and beautiful. Drabs in several
shades, cardinal, and grey, are the predominating
colours. Armure Poudree is an entirely new style of
design. The ground is a specie of shot armure with
tiny spots, giving the appearance of so much powder
thrown upon it; the figure, a very small bunch of
roses, is inclosed in a shield of plain satin of the same
al3ade as the warp. There are only six mixtures, but
the colours are exceedingly happy in combination, and
the article itself is not only a novelty, but also of ex-
cellent taste.

TAFFETAS faconne armure has a small design in
taffetas resembling a heart, the ground being of satin
the shade of the figure, always brighter than the
ground; marine and cardinal, fawn and ibis, punch
and Arab, bronze and chamois are the best colourings.
Pekin reps satin faconne has an alternate satin and
reps stripe, and an arabesque design upon it. The
light shades are extremely pretty, such as straw and
flamingo, lilac and white, slate and pearl. Faconne
glad) has a mosaic design in satin upon a shot taffetas
ground. One thing in its favour is its novelty, and
the blendings of the shot grounds are perfect; bronze
and fire, marine and fawn' bear and moss, slate and
ochre are the principal. Annum faconn6 satin is a
very handsome material, with an armure ground very
similar to the old crystalise, and a large leaf in satin,
is suitable for court trains, and the colourings are
cream, white, light blue and white, two tones of slate,
fawn and porcelaine, bronze and rose, with other
artistic combinations.
Loursrmi Pekin faconne has an equal stripe of
louisine and satin, with a spot in satin the size of a
shilling, upon which is depicted a• branch of a tree.
This article is especially suitable for draping, being
very soft, although of a certain thickness. Damask
or brocaded silks in single colours are still to be seen,
although to a smaller extent than ever. Striped silks
of all kinds are very much used, those with two or
more colourings being preferred. The great article
of the season is velvet, both in plain and fancy.
Figured velvets are replacing figured silks, and velvet
designs upon taffetas glace grounds are already very
much appreciated. Very stylish are those small
effects in velvet upon satin grounds with a stripe of
the same shade as the velvet. Another handsome
design is a plum, with a leaf attached, upon a satin
ground, the edging of the leaf being of a very bright
shade, in contrast to the ground.

THE novelties in fashionable goods at present on
view in the leading shops of the metropolis are simply
innumerable, presenting every conceivable variety of
material and design. The Queen in a weekly article
on "London Fashions" says: Woollens are prettier
than ever; and silks, satins, and brocades richer,
handsomer, and—more costly than before. It seems
certain that above all other shot silk, both plain and
figured, will be the favourite material for spring and
summer wear. For young ladies these changeable
silks are made up of two varieties, the first plain, the
second covered either with velvet dote of irregular
size and shape, or striped with narrow lines of the
darker colour used. They are remarkable for their
brightnesss, and the mixtures are very decided, such
as peacock - blue and old - gold, moss-green and
lavender-pink, sky-blue and coral, purple and porce-
lain-blue, brown and bouton d'or, Sr.c. The ever-
varying reet is charming in effect, heightened as it is
by the small velvet spots showered on the surface of
the silk, though the exceptionally gay colouring may
be objected to by some who prefer a quieter and less
obtrusive style.

Fon elderly people and married ladies there are
shot silks with stripes of velvet, wide or narrow, or
covered with a pattern of single flowers (treated con-
ventionally and outlined by frig loops of silk) of a
darker or distinct contrasting shade. Skirts made of
this material are round and plain, with gathered folds
behind, the bodice and drapery of plain cashmere to
match, both skirt and bodice being trimmed with
pinked-out ruches of plain shot silk, the latter having,
in addition, a fully gathered " Bernhardt " waistcoat
of velvet-figured silk. For evening wear, trains and
bodices of rich-hued velvet are fashionably worn over
petticoats of satin veiled in tinted lace. The lucky
possessors of deep flounces of antique lace could have
no prettier way of showing:their treasures than as so
arranged; or, failing these, the entire fronts of petti-
coats are covered with net exquisitely embroidered in
silk and finished with a gathered flounce of similar
work, which borders the skirt all round.

Tan same authority states that plush, though tem-
porarily discarded in favour of plain and terry velvet,
for mixing with costumes of ottoman silk, cashmere,
or fine serge cloth, is still much in vogue for evening
wraps or for the more elaborate sorties de bal now so
generally worn in place of the warmer and more
thoroughly useful fur-lined circular cloak. Dolmans
of chestnut plush lined with bright gold satin are very
popular, and can be worn with almost any toilet. One
of this colour, braided with gold, was bordered with
marabout and fringes of tassels of brown and gold
silk. On each shoulder were epaulette ornaments of
brown and gold passementerie, from the back of which
hung heavy cords of silk, finished with tassels and
caught together in a loose knot and fastened below
the waist. -A "visite " cape of stamped beige 'velvet,
the pattern outlined in gold, was particularly effec-
tive:; the front had long square ends, the back was
curved and cut up to the waist, from which
sprang a large fan-shaped piece of plaited
satin, bordered with five rows of narrow gold braid
and fringed with marten tail. The cape was trimmed
with bands of fur, and lined throughout with satin of
the faintest china-blue. A loose jacket of crimson
satin lined with quilted silk (bouquets of red roses on
a pale pink ground) was trimmed with gathered red
lace and hanging balls of beads. The sleeves were
long and open, and at the back was a red lace hood
lined with flowered silk, and large enough to be used
as a head covering should the wearer so desire.

FANCY braids of every description continue to be
fashionable, and constitute the chief trimming of
nearly all tailor-made gowns for house or outdoor
wear. None, however, are now complete without
the short, round, and close-fitting jacket which in-
variably accompanies them. These are all more or
less elaborately treated with mixed or real metal
braids, and are eminently attractive and smart look-
ing, the fronts crossed in military style with festoons
of braids, and the collars and cuffs so completely
covered as to hide the material from view.

Raid, flowers are now mounted with the stalks pro-
truding at one end, in imitation of the gutta perelia
ones of French artificial flowers. If the natural
stalks of the flowers are not enough, then others are
added, and the whole tied round with gold or silver
cord. The sprays for fans, dresses, and muffs are all
mounted thus. Dark ivy leaves are arranged with
nearly all flowers, and have a good effect. A pretty
little fashionable present of the day is a small flat
basket filled with moss and cut flowers, and a button-
hole pinned to the inside of the lid. The flowers are
hollowed in the centre to allow of the buttonhole
lying without undue pressure, and the lid, when raised,
is kept in position by straps and bows of coloured satin.
The basket is tied down with a good-sized bow of
satin, with, if specified, " Souvenir " printed in gold
on one loop.

PUTTING n:TM fl TIIE PILLORY.—A certain Lucius
Rufinus, a man of insatiable avarice, having been
invited to dine with the Emperor Claudius, had the
impudence to steal a gold goblet belonging to his
host. The Emperor only punished the theft by
inviting the thief again on the following day, and
having him, alone of all who were present, served
with an earthenware cup.
LET IT Go.—A lady who was suffering under a
slight indisposition said to her husband, "It is with
the greatest difficulty that I can breathe, and the
effort distresses me exceedingly." "Then I wouldn't
try, my dear; let your breath go," responded her
unfeeling spouse, in tones of pretended sympathy.
A BASHFUL PAIL—A bashful young man escorted
an equally bashful young lady. As they approached
the dwelling of the damsel, she said, entreatingly,
" Zekiel, don't tell anybody you saw me home.'
" Sary," said he, emphatically, "don't you mind. I
am as much ashamed of it as You are."