The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1884-07-19 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS

Tim, approaching prorogation of Parliament will
'have the effect of dispersing the remnant of fashion-
able society hitherto detained in town by the legisla-
tile or official duties of the heads of families. The
?Aura of the Prince and Princess of Wales tei the
performance of those public duties which iney pe
form so gracefully, has been a Source of satisfaction
, to all who are interested in the doings of " society,'
and there has been quite a "revival" in
fashionable circles so far as London under
a broiling July sun can be called fashion-
able. Of course, the popular forms of enter-
tainment just now are garden parties and afternoon
fetes, at which much variety of costume is allowable.
The favourite materials for these are Swiss muslin
and lace, and the colours cream or white. The
Queen, in an article on "London Fashions," gives
the following description of summer dresses which
have just been shown by a West-end house: One
was of pale lemon tint, covered with pinhead dots,
the skirts flounced and bordered with lace. The
drapery above was arranged on one side in an original
manner, like a scarf with a knot in the centre, drawn
down from the cicse-gathered waist, and on the other
side was a cascade bow of long loops and ends of
ribbon the colour of the muslin. The JAW bodice,
with its round-gathered collar, and plain sleeves
finished with lace, the small drawn bonnet edged with
pearls, were in excellent taste. Add to these a
parasol of the same material, almost transparent,
though covered with folds and bordered with frillmgs
of lace, and pronounce it, as we did, an idyllic
costume for a youthful wearer.

FLOWERS]) French muslins, lace - trimmed and
decked out with bows, were made over skirts of
either soft shot silk, or of pale gros grain, either
plaited and ruched at the edge, or of full-gathered
picked out flounces. Draperies of finely meshed
"twist," which would almost do duty for fishing, are
festooned in long sweeping curves over petticoats of
all bright colours, such as sapphire, rose-pink, and
red, the ,network in all shades of bege being inter-
woven either with large designs in white wool or
applique with patterns of velvet. Cotton frocks of
changeant thread's are effectively trimmed with an
open-work border which is like the old fashioned
"netting " our grandmothers used to produce, the
small squares filled in with some dark colour arranged
in alternate groups with others of lighter tone.

A,N effective toilette for afternoon wear was of
mushroom sicilienne and shot glace silk with narrow
stripes in a novel mixture of lime blossom fris6 silk
loops and crimson and green velvet squares. The
bodice and skirt were of the striped material, the
tablier only being of sicilienne, which fell in long
loose festoons; the right side of the bodice was
covered with mushroom silk (it was cut in one piece
with the apron), and crossing the chest was carried
below the waist in a slanting direction, where it
joined the back breadths of the skirt. The upper
edge of the sicifienne drapery, which sprang from the
seam on the shoulder, was bordered with a flat band
of deep crimson velvet, two inches or less in width,
and fastened with cut steel buttons, and at each side
of the waist was a similar band, which met in a point
in front. At the collar and cuffs were bows of velvet
and buttons of bright cut steel,

ANOTHER costume of gold-brown cashmere had a
round skirt, edged with a }tilting and square-cut over-
dress open in front trimmed with a wide band of
satin, with pattern of fried) silk in diamonds, joined
at the points, and two of a size together. Above
was a peplum tunic, cut in sharp points at the sides.
The wide hem was merely stitched, and was other
wise wholly untrimmed. The bodice was cut like a
coat, with long square tails at the back. One hung
straight down from the waist, and the other was
caugiat up in folds fastened high on the side of the
hip. In front was a waistcoat of lace, with loose
gathered frills en cascade, framed by a border of satin,
which joined the flat bands on the skirt.

ALLunria to the usefulness of dust-cloaks, which
are now prettily as well as simply made, the Queen
says: Such as these are mostly composed of a bright-
looking damask merino with large white flowers dis-
played on a background of colour, in blue, red, or pale
neutral tints. A cloak of this novel material in dull
stone grey had a pattern of white dog roses, and was
lined with salmon sateen. It was trimmed down the
front and all round the skirt with flat bands of grey
velveteen, which was darker by several shades. The
back was cut up to the waist, and was bordered with
grey velveteen, the opening filled with plain material
finely kilted, and crossed at intervals with narrow
ribbon of salmon and tone grey si/k, tiea' in loose
knots in the centre. 'Below the hips were lallge square
pockets, with bows of grey and salmon ribbon; the
sleeves were full, but gathered to the wrist, and lined
with salmon sateen. The cloak was not buttoned in
front, but was tied down its length by ribbon bows,
placed closely, and hanging in loops.

Tussoan or silk long-cloth is a capital stuff for these
cloaks, and has proved itself thoroughly useful for
driving on hot, dusty roads. Its surface is smooth,
and easily cleaned; it Mows the dust scarcely at all,
and quickly is rid of its presence by a "shake "at the
journey's end. Cloaks of this long cloth are trimmed
either with a gathered flounce or a ruching of tinted
lace dotted with small bows of velvet or of satin
ribbon. Chaudron, grenat, sulphur, moss-green, and
sapphire-blue are colours all greatly affected, should
contrast be thought desirable, but many prefer a har-
mony of ribbons and streamers to match. An elegant
cloak was of beige silk lace, made over fuchsia-red
satin; a double cape reached to the elbows, with open
square sleeves underneath. It was lavishly trimmed
with delicate lace (the number of yards unknown),
small loops of red satin ribbon being mixed with the
frills cm cascade. The skirt was bordered with a
thicker niche than that on the crape above, and had
ribbons of wider width; the black breadths were
flounces of lace; on either side were rosettes of
ribbon, small at the waist, and increasing in size to
the I.dge. A girdle of ribbon, which came from the
searo 4.: the side, was fastened in front by a buckle of
brilhants, in an old-fashioned setting of silver.

IN millinery, flowers continue to constitute the
most favourite trimming. For boating and tennis the
sailor hat is still in favour, the crown surrounded
with a silken kerchief, having coloured border, and
the corners embroidered with lizards, small insects or
birds, while in front is a bouquet of flowers—dog-
roses, grasses, and ferns. A hat of moss-coloured
Leghorn was most picturesque, the crown covered
with diamonds of dark green velvet, outlined with
line gold thread, and it and the brim were crinkled
and crumpled in a manner which, if quite in-
describable, was none the less quaint. The brim was
turned up at one side, and fastened by a large
rosette of cockscomb-cut ends of green velvet, and
underneath were scarlet poppies, full blown and in
the bud.

To some of our readers the following extract from
the Queen will be of interest: Dress for touring should
be neat, light, durable, and of a serviceable colour,
heather-brown or dark grey, and all wool. The
under-clothing should be exclusively of merino, or,
better still, of fine flannel throughout. No linen
bands should be allowed, for when clad all in wool and
flannel, the wearer runs much less risk of chills from
standing or sitting in a cold wind or draughts.
Experienced lady riders prefer combination garments
of flannel coming well up over the chest and buttoning
at one side. Petticoats are rather at a discount for
riding purposes, owing to their tendency to " ruck "
up over the knees. Short knickerbockers or trousers
are highly recommended by those who have tried
them, but are rather hot. The dress should be mane
so as to look nice, on or off the machine, and in this
the kilted and plaited skirts have the advantage over
the habit skirts, as, although the latter are very
neat, appropriate, and comfortable when riding, they
have rather a bare, conspicuous look when walking.
By an arrangement of hooks and eyes the riding
skirt can be taken up for walking and let down
when riding. For the body a well-fitting Norfolk, or
jacket bodice cut away in front, and either double or
single breasted, with a stand-up collar, looks very
nice indeed. With a neat-fitting costume and ever
dean collar and cuffs, a lady tricyclist may look as
nice as anyone. The hat may be either straw or
ventilated felt. In any case, it should be light, and
afford a sufficient shade to the eyes. A lady's
Indian topee would be very nice, and for country
riding in hot weather the very thing. Boots should
be well fitting, and strongly soled. Laced or buttoned
Oxford shoes are best for riding.

"Is your wife acquainted with the dead len pages ?"
asked the professor of a Newman man. "Maybe she
is," was the reply, "but the language she uses is
entirely too warm to have been dead very long."
A REAL GrNius.—The editor of the Louisville Argus
is a genius. He proclaims it in an editorial. "We
have struck a new scheme," he says. "On the green
shade we wear over our eyes when reading proofs or
grinding out copy we have printed: I am busy.'
When a man that we don't care to talk to comes in
we stoop still lower over the desk so that he can see
it and take the hint, but when the other kind of a man,
a good fellow, comes in, we push the shade sp over our
bald spot where he can't read the legend, smile be-
nignantly at him and open the conversation by asking
him for a cigar.*
How Arren or ROSES as ()warn-D.—Genuine
attar of roses, which is made in India and Australia,
costs 100 dols. an ounce at the places of distillation.
It takes 50,000 rose blooms to yield an ounce of attar.
They are the common roses, and grow in great pro-
fusion in California, where the distillation of attar
could be made a very profitable industry. In Northern
India the roses are regularly cultivated. They are
planted in rows in fields, and require no particular
care. When they begin to bloom they are picked
before midday. The work is done by women and
children, who seem to regard it more as a pleasure
than a pursuit of labour. The rose leaves are dis-
tilled in twice their weight in water, which is drawn
off into open vessels. These are allowed to stand
over night, being covered with cloths to keep out dirt
and insects. In the morning the water is coated with
a thin oily film. This is the rare attar of roses. It
is skimmed off with a fine feather and dropped into
vials. The process continues daily, until the bushes
cease to yield. •

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