The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1883-07-21 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

ALTHOUGH the close of the London season is ap-
proaching, and many of the "upper ten thousand "
have already taken their departure for summer resorts,
the metropolis is far from devoid of gaiety. The most
int-re- ting gathering of laet week was the fancy dress
ball given at the Albert Hall by the members of the
Savage Club, and which was honoured by the presence
of the Prince and Princess of Wales, the Duke and
Duchess of Connaught, the Duke of Albany, Prince
and Princess Christian, the Prince and Princess elf
Saxe-Meiningen, and the Duke and Duchess of Teck.
The Princess of Wales wore black lace over gold satin,
with high collar of lace, the bodim ornamented with
sprays of diamonds and crimson roses; a splendid
tiara and necklace of pearls and diamonds. Princess
Christian also wore black, with much beaded lace.
Amonest the general attendance it is a matter of diffi-
culty to single out for special mention more than a few
of the splendid dresses worn. Q leen Elizabeth in
ruby velvet, with heavily jewelled front, a crown of
diamonds end rubies surmounting her auburn locks,
presented a truly regal appearance; and an exceedingly
handsome Spanish gipsy dress consisted of scarves of
yellow and scarlet silk, loosely knotted over a skirt of
black satin, shot with gold thread, and trimmed with
gold balls; black jacket with lattice work sleeves of
chenille and gold. Among the infinite variety of
tasteful and well-designed costumes may be men-
tioned a Vivandibre, in scarlet and white; a Magpie,
in black and witite feathers; Patier,ce, Marguerite de
Valois, Di Vernon, Miss Hardcaetle, Princess Eliza-
beth ; a particularly pretty French Folly, in white
satin, with diamonds of black, yellow, and pale blue,
and hanging cloak lined with striped satin in the three
colours; Grace Darling, with life-buoy and lantern ;
two sisters, as Rompe, with coloured frocks, white
piannforee, and skipping ropes; La Masectte ; Rouge
et Noir ; a Russian peasant, in holiday attire; an
Incroyahle, in blue and yellow, with coat of purple
velvet; and many others. Several ladies personated
their Japaaese sisters with more or less success,
though in every case the materials used were of
unusual magnificence. An elegant costume con-
sisted of a handsome ball gown of black brocade and
lace, with pink feathers and brooches of diamonds. A
particularly pretty gown was of fawn-coloured satin
br ,caded with small pink flowers, the back of the
skirt, draped in a novel way in large shell-like folds,
was of plain pink satin, and was trimmed with deep
ecru lace; the drapery was fastened at one side with
a large garland of shaded roses.

AT a recent river-side gathering largely patronized by
the bean monde, a great diversity of dress was observ-
able. White flannel, silk, and cotton dresses pre-
vailed, but there were many tAriued flannels and
cottons. Two sisters wore, tie one blue, the other
piuk striped flannel dresses with louse blouse bodices,
sailor collars, and small rowing flap caps of the same
which might have belonged to their brothers. A
white kilted skii t was worn with a long•tailed
bine coat of cloth with gold buttons and a white
waistcoat. White waistcoats, with dark dresses were
much in fashion. Much gold braid in close-set rows ap-
peared on the cream dresses. Sailors hats were far more
worn than any other form. The spotted muslins with
printed sprigs upon them were much patronised.
Dark blue cotton with red waistcoat and hat to match
was a favourite dress, and there were a few dreises
made entirely of red twill. Rich silks were in the
minority, but there were a few to be seen—such as a
gold-coloured brocaded silk over a lace petticoat. A
dark blue grounded chalis with old-gold stripes, on
which were roses, was a notable dress. Thera were
many dark-grounded brocaded begee, but everybody
wore large bunches of flowers, which relieved white,
dark, or black toilettes, giving the necessary touch of
colour.

WITH the return of sultry weather the light
costumes, temporarily put aside, are again resumed,
and china crapee, mousseline de sole, and printed
foulards are decidedly the fashionable materials, all
greatly in demand (says the Queen). The first cannot
well he surpassed for elegance, and the foulards,
printed with bouquets of exquisitely designed flowers,
are especially adapted to the picturesque style now
much effected by the erstwhile followers of cestheticism.
Simplicity of form and material is, however, greatly
sought after by many young ladies, and plain and
spotted Indian muslin, both white and ecru, are well
worn, made up either over silk of the same or
contrasting colour; while whole skirts of black or
white Spanish lace, Chantilly, and deep Swiss
embroideries are frequently seen, decorated with
shaded ribbons in drooping bows, the lace bodices lined
with colour to correspond. Black grenadines, satin-
striped, and embroidered with tiny garlands of
flowers, are in favour, and look well arranged as paniers
with a simple gathered bodice over skirts of either
coloured silk or satin. Fine serges, batistes, and
zephyr cloth, for morning wear, are pretty, useful,
and inexpensive, three excellent recommendations
where economy is the rule; but taking advan,age of
the numerous "summer sales" now announced, no
difficulty should be experienced in the selection of one
or more dainty and bright-looking toilettes, suitable.
for walking or seaside wear. These are made with
box-plaited skirts, and trimming of narrow ribbon or
velvet, and worn en paniers, with a tabbed habit-coat
of some dark colour.

THR same reliable authority mentions that travelling
dresses of wool grenadine of the fashionable tan
shades, or thin Lege in fawn, cinnamon, iron-grey,
bronze, nemophila, and smoke-blue are all fashionable,
the skirts simply made with tucks or rows of stitching,
having only a garniture of hanging velvet bows, in
dark shades of mahogany-brown, ruby, terracotta,
or sapphire blue. Small toques of velvet, with flat
bows of gold cashmere lace, accompany these
co.tumes. Tussore and Indian oorah siiks are
extremely light and agreeable wear, and these
a!a, tiji 11 &NA „Jar& LaNaurtfrigNal
with fan shaped frillings of soft silk in stripes
of white and nivvy blue, the back arranged en
cascade, with a scarf of the striped material placed
round the hips and carelessly knotted at the side, low
on the skirt, is specially mentioned as fforsling a good
example of the prevailing style, the jacket bodice being
ornamented with a gathered waistcoat of the stripes,
with cuffs to match. A hat of 6oru lace, Fed ma shape,
lined with blue, and trimmed with a bunch of shaded
cornflowers, completes this pretty costume.

',ARSE shady hats of lace, basket work, and Ems
eolouri-d straws are greatly in favour for country and
sea-side wear, with clusters of fruit and berries of all
kinds, such as black and white grapes, cherries,
apples, plum., and walnuts. Some French garden
hats of large size are composed of tinted lace over
.carlet twill, a large rosette with small balls of white
beads hanging from the centre being the only orna•
went. For boating and tennis nothing is better than
fine white flannel and views, either checked with fine
lines of colour, or printed with large coloured spots.
These are made up as full plain skirts, with scarf of
E tripod flannel—wnite, with the colour selected—snr•
rounding the hips ; a gathered bodice, " Eton " linen
collar and cuffs, and a soft silk square tied in a loose
knot at the throat.

THE most recent novelties for tennis and similar
purposes consists of tine white or cream limn, with
scarlet appliquti crescents and spots embroidered in
herring-bone stitch, also scarlet with large blue spots;
both very effective, made as kilted skirts, with over-
dress of white summer flannel of thin texture; white
spots on red, red on blue and brown on cream or tan
colour are a few of the fashionable combinations, a
design of scarlet circles on white ground, the circles
embroidered with Chinese pagodas and willow•trees,
being particularly stylish. Parasols of large size are
also made of these materials to match costumes,
having long " shepherdess " sticks for handles. Red
ones, of twilled cotton, and edged with scarlet woollen
balls are much used for seaside wear. These are lined
with white, cream, or black batiste, printed with
bouquets of flowers; many of the more expeniive
kinds of lace and silk have the linings painted by hand,
with designs of flying birds, butterflies, with branches
of roses or other blossoms.

A FASHIONABLE contemporary says that fancy but-
tons, of all kinds, now form a great feature as decora-
tive adjunet4 to summer toilettes, and those, made of
metal, in black, steel blue and copper colour, with
lacquer work of gold and silver in small designs, are
pretty, and extensively used with costumes of vicuna,
gingham, fond cloth, and the new silk material, in
minute checks of every conceivable shade, called
"taffetas glace." The buttons in gold and green tints
are very effective, as trimmings for travelling gowns
of mixed tweed or heather homespun material,