The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1884-04-05 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

TEE new fashions in millinery, though mainly
following the old linos, are not entirely devoid of
novelty. On this subject the Daily Telegraph, in an
article on "Paris Fashions," says: The transparency
of bonnet crowns is one of the principal features of
new spring millinery. These crowns are made of
lace, gauze, net, beads, loosely-plaited straw or what
not, throitgh which the hair may be partially visible.
A certain amount of solidity is afforded by the straw,
velvet, or closely ruched lace edge or brim. Colour
and consistence is given to transparent crowns and
pale blossoms by pleated crimson velvet. This
material, as well as ribbon velvet strings of the same
colour, is in immense request. It is combined with
white lace, pale pink gauze, black lace, besides fine
straw crowns, which, of course, are opaque. Deeper
shades of red, claret, and ruby are chosen equally with
crimson, as well as a kind of mahogany brown and
copper colour. Green also plays an important part—
myrtle and pine green, and the new shade called vert-de-
gris, or "new born leaf." Each and all are combined
with very delicate pink, cream, and the various shades
of yellow comprehended between primrose and mari-
gold. Mushroom-hued materials harmonise well with
gold; the velvet is used for quillings, strings, and
bows; the lace is interwoven with gold thread; the
gauze or net has a vermicelli pattern of gold upon it,
or is strewn with gilt beads. For gold in all varieties
there is a perfect furore. Half the new bonnets and
many of the new hats contain gold in some form or
other—gold lace, gold braid mixed with straw, gold
tulle, and grenadine, gold beads, gold flowers, seeds,
fruits and corn, golden pins, golden lyres, the golden
feathers of the pheasant and bird of paradise. And
for all this gold a certain amount of black, grey,
brown, and sombre green to keep it in countenance
somewhat, though, with the exception of black (which
holds an important place), the rest are but as Fal-
staff's half-pennyworth of bread to an unlimited
amount of sack.

HATS are made with transparent crowns as well as
bonnets, but in their case the brim is mostly of straw,
lined with velvet. As usual, bats are divided into
two distinct series, those made by the milliners, which
are decorated with flowers, draped with lace, tulle,
crape—even gold net—and those to be seen at the
hatters, of which feathers form the principal orna-
ment. In both cases the crown is wide and high, and
the brim narrow; so narrow, perhaps, behind, that it.
hardly seems to exist, and curled upwards slightly in
front so as 6 show a certain portion of the fluted
velvet with which it is almost invariably lined. For
simple morning and country hats a most varied collec-
tion of bright kerchiefs is in readiness, not only shot
with two or three shades, with an Oriental luxuriance
of tone, but marked in one corner or printed in gold,
besides a fine collection of pins to secure them to the
straws, the note of interrogation pin being the latest
introduction.

TIIE writer of the article just quoted also makes
some observations on the gowns now so much in
vogue. He says: The materials for gowns also
occupy an important place in the fashions of the day.
There are plain glace silks, woollens composed of two
colours almost as bright in appearance, shot silks
interwoven with specks, spots, lines, and stripes of
velvet, and silk Pekins composed of stripes of shot
silk, alternating with v vet or fancy stripes. The
new, fashionable sunsh es are in shot silk—plain or
figured—so that from .e tip of her parasol to the
toe of her burnished bronze boot a Parisian lady is
as changeable in hue as a chameleon; looking at her
in one light she will appear all sapphire blue, in
another crimson. Besides blue and red, the favourite
combinations are green and crimson, crimson and
grey, grey and green, fawn-colour and blue, violet
and green, and brown and pink. A figured material
is mostly chosen for the skirt, which may be plain or
merely scolloped at the lower edge, or kilted; fashion
having taken up kilting once more with as much
gusto as if it were the newest arrangement out, and
had not been worn almost without intermission for
more seasons than I can count.

A DESCRIPTION of one or two of these chameleon-
like gowns may prove useful to the reader. Suppose
the skirt to be of silk, composed of stripes of green,
shot with purple and grey, covered with narrow lines
of very dark green—loosely pleated. Beneath the
lower edge appears a frilling of plain green and
purple-shot silk. The tunic, full to the waist and
folded underneath as it is drawn back and loses it-
self in the draperies of the pouf, is of the latter
material, and has on one side a cascade of myrtle
green, ribbon velvet loops and ends. A bodice to
match, with small basques and plastrom of green
velvet, completes the gown, with addition of a knot
of velvet cones on the left shoulder.

CYPRUS-GREEN silk shot with claret, composes the
tunic (short and draped diagonally) of another gown.
The skirt, cut in deep vandycks, has inch-wide stripes
of claret-hued velvet on a shot foundation. A double
flouncing of silk makes a background to the vandyeked
edge, and on one side of it (the side left uncovered by
the diagonal drapery of the tunic) hangs a loose
breadth of plain shot silk folded in three or four
plaits. The bodice is of crimson velvet, with V-shaped
pieces of pleated silk let in, before and behind, while
the velvet sleeves, tight to the elbow and forearm,
have a high-shouldered bouillenne of silk to finish
them off.

A DINNgli gown, made minus the train as so many
are nowadays, consists of twilled satin—light blue,
shot with terra-cotta pink—and the same material
strewn with an infinite number of small ruby-red
spots. The bodice of the latter is cut high behind and
square in front, the interval being filled up with a
full chemisette of pale pink tulle, speckled with red
chenille, and completed by elbow sleeves of the same
transparent fabric. The short skirt of the speckled
satin is hemmed up with a wide band of ruby-coloured
velvet; for the rest, full paniers and a waterfall
drapery of plain shot satin.

THE Paris correspondent of the Queen, describing
the fashions which prevail in the gay capital, says:
Kilted skirts are still in vogue; but the American
folds called "knife plaitings" are rarely made, as
they quickly get out of order. The newest style is to
have alternate plaitings of two different materials, as
one stripe of moire or shot silk and one of white lace
insertion; sulphur satin and old Grenada lace are
often used in this manner. If such a skirt is light,
then the bodice is round-waisted, and a wide scarf of
either lace, crepe, or Oriental silk is tied round the
hips and finished off at the back with a how and wide
fringed ends. If the skirt is dark, then the bodice is
made entirely of dark silk or velvet. For morning
walks in the Bois, or visits to the old curiosity shops,
for which there is quite a craze at present, the
Parisiennes are wearing large blouses made of
striped woollen, fastened on the right shoulder and
draped on the left hip; the plain skirt is either
velveteen or dark cloth, and generally trimmed with
a wide velvet band.

AMONG the colours in vogue for woollen costumes,
blue and red decidedly play the principal parts up to
the present. For example, the skirt will be plain
blue, and the blouse will be either embroidered with
red flowerets, or the guimpe collar and cuffs will be
of some supple red silk or embroidery, pleasantly
relieving the simplicity of a plain costume. Moss-
green and dark blue (the shade called "blue mer")
also make a happy combination for this style of
morning costume. Soft materials, be they silk or
wool, that drape in graceful folds, are still preferred.

THE correspondent of the (been adds some interest-
ing details of the fashionable doings of Parisian society,
from which we take the following: The fashionable
world has returned to Paris from our southern cities,
and receptions and five o'clock teas are again in full
swing. The tea is taken but no cakes are offered
with it, because of the Lenten season. There have
been smart teas this week given by the Comtesse de
Ponteves, and by the Marquise de Tracy, where I
remarked the following costumes.. The Baronne de
In Grange in dark blue embossed velvet; simple skirt
bordered with a thick-silk ruche, velvet bodice with
paniers draped at the back en pouf and edged with
a band of sable; a small blue bonnet with ruched
brim a blue veil spotted with gold, and a gold-
tipped aigrette ; tiny velvet and fur muff. Comtesse
Witztum (a foreigner) in a superb toilette of violet-
blue satin; the skirt bordered with narrow flounces
alternate velvet and satin; the tunic was ex-
quisite embroidery of the last century—quite a
work of art; it was worked au passe in shaded flowers
and leaves; velvet bodice with short basques, and a
large pouf at the back; blue velvet muff with ecru
lace at the ends, and a large yellow bow at the top,
the ends cut in the form of swallows' tails; blue velvet
bonnet, with a marabout aigrette, surrounded with
silver lace, narrow strings fastened with emeralds;
round the throat a lace ruche, with a velvet band
studded with emeralds; lace on the sleeves, and long
buttonless Suede gloves almost covered by bracelets.
Comtesse Baucher wore a lilac moire dress, with long
redingote, plaited waistcoat in plain lilac silk, flat lace
collar and cuffs; lilac terry bonnet, with sprays of
lilac. The Marquise de Tracy wore an olive-green
embossed velvet skirt, with plain velvet bodice, the
basques being lined with embossal velvet and turned
upwards; olive-green velvet bonnet, with gold pow-
dered marabouts. Mme. du Mont was in a blue cloth
redingote, fastened with brandebourgs, which fell on
the box-plaited velvet skirt; for small blue bonnet,
much ruched with lace, was ornamented with real
camellias and roses, and similar flowers were fastened
in the buttonhole of her redingote and on the top of
her tiny muff; the effect was excellent. Mme. do
Ponteves' rich black toilette was very novel. The
material of the skirt was velvet, studded with terry
lozengers, the bodice was a jet cuirass, and the sleeves
were Lace frills from wrist to elbow; an enormous lace
ruche bordered the bodice and formed the collar.
Comtesse Beaumont wore a dark green satin kilted
skirt, a velvet mantle lined with old-gold satin, and
trimmed with gold passementerie ; the crown of the
velvet bonnet was worked in gold beads, the brim
being niches of black and gold lace. Comtesse
Sapinard's costume was also pretty—violet velvet
skirt and mantelet, with long ends trimmed heavily
with chenille fringe; violet satin bonnet, with shaded
Pansies.

EXTRAORDINARY RIOT IN AMERICA.
Writing on Sunday night, the New York corres-
pondent of the Daily News says:—

One of the most formidable and bloody riots ever
witnessed in this country since the civil war has been
raging in Cincinnati since Friday night. The imme-
diate origin was an indignation meeting held there to
protest against a verdict of manslaughter in the trial
of a self-confessed murderer named Berner, but there
are other causes more remote. The fact is that the
administration of justice in Cincinnati has been little
less than a farce for many years. There has been
only one man hanged for murder since 1866. There
are at the present time more than twenty
murderers in the county gaol who have escaped
with only imprisonment instead of the full
penalty of the law. Berner's case was particularly
atrocious. Re confessed seven times to killing his
employer for money.. A short time ago a whole
family was murdered by fiends for the purpose of
selling their bodies to medical colleges for dissection.
There having been fully 40 escapes from justice, some
murderers being released on bail and others sen-
tenced to inadequate terms of imprisonment, public
exasperation became intense, especially among the work-
ing men; and the opinion got abroad that any one
could commit murder and get free if he had money to
pay to unscrupulous criminal lawyers. When the
jury brought in the Berner verdict the judge pro-
nounced it an outrage, and the public indignation
was so great that a mass meeting was called. The
design of the callers was to prevent rather than to
promote violence, but the attendance was immense,
and the audience soon became uncontrollable. \fatly
attended equipped with ropes, and when the speakers
denounced the miscarriage of justice, and alluded to
the murderers in gaol, a cry was started, "Rang
them all!" This was enough. The meeting became
a mob, and the whole mass, infuriated almost to
madness, started for the gaol. Thousands of others
joined them as the crowd rushed on, and when the
gaol was reached there were fully 10,000 yelling
men determined to force open the gaol and hang all
the murderers. A long oak plank was seized and used
as a battering ram, and the outer door was forced open.
With another plank an entrance was forced through
the window. The mob rushed into the gaol by both
entrances, but were firmly resisted by the sheriff and
his assistants, and by the police who had been sum-
moned. Still, the mob were so powerful that they
forced their way into the cell-room, where they dis-
covered that Berner had been removed to another city.
This infuriated them afresh, and they demanded all
the other murderers. By coolness and discipline
the *police manfully forced the rioters back
and outside again without causing bloodshed. Then a
fresh attack was made on all parts of the gaol, and
the mob were rapidly breaking down all the barriers,
when the militia appeared on the scene. Their firing
a volley cleared the gaol of the rioters, who made an
attempt to fire the building by pouring in a barrel of
coal oil and firing it; but, being fireproof, little harm
was done. The militia gradually dispersed the mob,
but only after five men were killed and about sixty
wounded. During yesterday all the streets leading to
the gaol were barricaded by the authorities, and a
heavy guard of veterans from a former war regiment
were stationed.

A fresh outbreak was anticipated when night
returned, and was made with frightful results. The
crowd began to muster early in the evening, and at
ten o'clock reached enormous proportions. Many of
the rioters were armed, and kept up a scattering fire
on the military, who returned it only by shooting in
the air. Several dynamite bombs were thrown into
the prison yard, and during a scene of terrific violence
a :sudden rush was made for the Court-house near
by. The entrance was forced, and oil poured into
the building and fired. When the fire department
arrived the mob refused to allow them to approach, and
battered the engines to pieces. The Court-house,
which was supposed to be fire-proof, was soon en-
veloped in flames. It was a fine structure, costing a
quarter of a million dollars, and contained valuable
records, historical and other, and the second best law
library in the country. The loss is irreparable. The
success of firing this incited the mob to literal frenzy.
They raided the gun stores, obtaining arms and
ammunition. At 10.30 the military charged upon the
mob, and began to attempt to clear the streets. The
firing on both sides was heavy and the slaughter was
dreadful. The rioters were entirely fearless, and
stood their ground like veterans. At eleven o'clock a
Gatling gun was brought up, and at the first discharge
six rioters fell, but still the mob stood firm. At
midnight the regular troops, sent by the governor,
arrived and joined in the fray. The rioters faced the
soldiers' guns like the typical crowd of madmen
apparently courting death. At one o'clock the firing
was heavier than ever, and a report is circulated that
the rioters have obtained a cannon. No estimate of
the loss of life is possible now, but it is thought that
at least two hundred are killed or wounded,

The PhiLactelphia correspondent of the Times
writing on Monday, gives the following additional
particulars :
The people of Cincinnati agree that it was the
determined and courageous action of the 14th Regi-
ment from Columbus which suppressed the riot there
on Sunday morning, and especially its clearing of the
Etreets around the court-house and gaol. The 4th
Regiment could not be got together until yesterday,
when it marched to the gaol. Its colonel will pro-
bably be tried by court-martial. Not more than 300
men at any time formed the active portion of the
mob, and skilful generalship might have sooner
beaten them off. Twenty-eight dead and fifty-two
wounded were in the morgue and hospital yester-
day, and many others were taken away by their
friends. The mob throughout made no impression on
the gaol.
The citizens yesterday determined to act for the
protection of the city. The 14th Regiment fixed a
patrol at one square's distance from the gaol, esta-
blishing a " dead" line. Stones were thrown by the
mob, and abusive epithets were indulged in, and at
length, at three o'clock in the afternoon, one rioter
crossed the " dead" line. He was warned to leave ;
he refused, and a soldier instantly shot him dead.
This incident had a salutary effect.
Mayor Stephens, who had been very ill, rose from
a sick bed yesterday, and summoned 100 of the pro-
minent citizens to meet forthwith. Then, with their
approval, Adjutant-General Finley telegraphed to
the Governor asking him to concentrate all the
available militia in Cincinnati as a precautionary
measure. The Governor, who was at Columbus,
yesterday ordered all the Ohio troops to Cincinnati
from different portions of the State—in all seven-
teen regiments and five batteries. The troops were
arriving throughout the day and evening, immediately
marching to the neighbourhood of the gaol, which
for squares around became a fortified camp.
The Mayor also issued a proclamation of martial
law, warning all persons to leave the streets after seven
in the evening. The Citizens' Committee, enlarged
to 200, was reconvened in the evening, and having
approved what had been done, adjourned till this
morning. It was announced that the troops guarding
the gaol would not hesitate to fire on the first attack.
After dark the mobs again gathered, and became
threatening. At eight o'clock they began firing on
the troops. The soldiers answered with volleys, which
were fired along the main street and Court-street.
Several persons were killed and wounded, but the out-
break was suppressed.
At 9.30 a portion of the mob again broke into the
music-hall, and captured some cannon on exhibition
there. Two companies of soldiers, which were
promptly sent down, drove them away and re-cap-
tured the cannon. At 10.30 a crowd broke into a
pawnshop, stealing some pistols, but a police detach-
ment arrested them all. These prompt measures,
with the dispersal of all crowds congregating, pre-
vented any other outbreaks. Aftez midnight the
situation is reported to have been encouraging, attic'
being fully maintained.

THE BALLYMOTE AFFRAY.

[pilot°
The
'raneis
L, were
Lulling
The
for
,t, the
Lemon-

The trial of the men charged with the Bal
affray concluded at Galway on Saturday.
Roman Catholic prisoners, Patrick Hpies,
Hynes, Richard Mullen, and James McLaughli
indicted for unlawful assembly, and for
three persons named Murray, father and sons
Protestant prisoners (the Murrays) were indi(
a common assault. It will be remembered
It
lunday

assa.

Icted

affray took place on occasion of a Nationalist
strrition in Ballymote, county. Sligo, on a Su.
January last. It was proved that the Roman C.
Eisoners formed part of a mob that stopped opposite
Zarray's house and threw stones at the Murrays,
one of which, thrown by McLaughlin, struck old
Murray, and inflicted a wound which lay bare his
skull and endangered his life. McLaughlin also
caught one of the sons and assaulted him, and in the
struggle which followed a revolver which Murray had
a license to carry for his own protection went off, and
inflicted a slight wound on McLaughlin. All the
prisoners were convicted, and, with the exception of
McLaughlin, were allowed out on their own recog.
nizances to come up for judgment when called upon.
McLaughlin was sentenced to six months' imprison-
inent.

in
;atgolic

I

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tie
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