The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1885-06-06 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

A r.tqftrom writer in the Queen says: The sailors
plaint, that the sun crossed tbe line at an inauspicious
moment, and that nothing but wind and storm and
chill would be our portion this year until we had
passed the longest day, seems to be being literally
fulfilled, and there is something pitifully provoking
in the way we stand shivering in our furs, gazing at
the tempting shows of summer things in the shop
windows which we dare not don. And yet it is curious
to note how, by accident, the latest novelties of this
season are most suitable to a cold summer; for the
charming ginghams, whose varied shades of pink and
blue delight so many, are, though as fashionable as
ever, last year's introduction; but the canvas cloths
belong to to-day, and for coolness of look and
warmth of feel they deserve especial attention lust
ECM.

ONE of the prettiest dresses I have yet seen was a
combination of plain and brocaded white wool canvas,
the underskirt being in long-folds of the plain with
fans of the brocade let in, whilst the drapery, which
waslong,was of the brocade trimmed with the t ashion-
able guipure de lame; a large watered-silk sash com-
pleted this costume,which the softness of the material
rendered particularly attractive. And another cos-
tume for an older person in rich tabac canvas, also
trimmed with guipure to match, was very effective.
Those who once discover that those new materials
combine the desirable ends of allowing you to look
summery and feel warm on a cold day, will know
what an invaluable aid to health fashion has found
this year. _

Wilir.sT I am on the subject of these woollen
fabrics, I may mention an opera cloak (I was going to
say), only it is a modern reading of that word which
I am going to describe, which is now being made for
a lady who is about to be married, and whose hus-
band, although they will go out a great deal, does not
possess a carriage. This cloak is long, reaching to
the hem of a short evening dress, and is composed of
a rich brown shade of brocaded woollen canvas; the
lining is of the richest buttercup yellow satin, showing
through the canvas, and the effect, either in sunlight
or gas, is of glinting gold; the trimming around neck
and sleeves and down the front is a cascade of brown
guipure to match, whilst the effect is carried out by a
judicious intermixture of gold tassels, and both at the
neck and waist this novel cloak is tied with gold cord
and tassels. The intention, which owes its origin to
Pa- is, is further carried out by n most becoming
bonnet to match, so that even when going to parties
in a hansom, the wearer will look both neatly and
picturesquely attired.

IT is odd to notice how, even in dress, there is a
certain balance of power, and during the last fort-
night, when all the handsomest dresses which have
been prepared for this London season have appeared
for the first time in public on their wearers, it has
struck me curiously that, whilst the prevailing 'taste
for the most exquisite but expensive brocades in gold
and silver, and even in seed pearl embroidery give no
scope for economy in the dresses of those elders who
aspire to fashion, there is a marked tendency to re-
duce the amount which it is necessary to spend upon
girls, in order to make the best of theii• fair young
freshness. Net is much used now, and also tulle,
whilst, rising in the scale of expense, gauze and cr6pe
form the chief and most fashionable materials for this
season's ball gowns. A young lady is well dressed
now if she has a full treble net skirt, whose sole
trimming consists of either one large sash, or else a
judicious arrangement of lon.'" narrow bows and ends
on the skirt; and a silk, plush, or moire bodice will
last out many of these. White is more than ever the
fashion this year, but in Paris there is a return to
yellow, and all shades of this becoming colour are
being used there for evening wear. Moir6s, too, are
again the fashion, and one large French firm has for
some months past been buying up all the surplus stock
of this material, which taste in England has turned
against; so I suppose it will be some little time
before we re-introduce it here, and I certainly think
its harshness compares unfavourably with the charm-
ing new sott silks we now get from Lyons.

THE terry velvets and terry silks of to-day are
exquisite, and the soft folds and draperies which they
lend themselves to, render them especially adaptable
to the present fashion of dress. I saw an exquisite
bridal robe the other day, which is being prepared for
a wedding early in July; the entire petticoat was of
draped terry silk and soft gauze puflings, whilst the
bodice and train were to be composed of the richest
friso velvet, and the effect was admirabla.

Now that stamped and fris4 velvet has established
its popularity, it is astonishing to what a pitch of
perfection the French manufacturers are bringing
them. I saw some exquisite specimens from Lyons
_the other day, the grounds being of the richest coral-
pink, pale blue, and buttercup-yellow; whilst the
elaborate pattern of flowers, in 'pivot which was partly
fris6, partly cut, was white, which gave a depth and
richness to the effect that is almost indescribable; it
was as if the wind had caused a rose tree to shed its
bloom upon the richest satin ground, and one felt it
was the perfectlon of the weaver's art. *

I HE in, by the way, that terry silks are being
largely used in the Princess Beatrice's trousseau, and
no wonder, though I am sorry when any French in-
troduction runs so near as this does to Irish poplin;
fcr the French understand the art of dyeing to per-
fection, and they excel in the shades which are so
fashionable now.

THE prettiest ball-dress I have seen this season had
the bodice and panels of the richest yellow satin, out-
lined with skeleton leaves in terra-cotta filoselle, whilst
to carry out the harmonious blending of colour the
skirt and draperies for the bodice were of deep terra-
cotta net, and the effect was excellent.

THE latest novelty, says the Lady's Pitorial, in the
way of parasols consists of handkerchiefs printed
with heraldic patterns placed one over the other so
that the corners of one square come in between the
corners of another. They are also made in squares
of ecru with a band of coloured velvet. Another new
shape in black satin lined with spangled red is just
like the inverted cup 0',2 a dwarf campanula blossom.
The Battenberg of black silk and lace and velvet is
another new and very pretty shape, which will be
most acceptable if Phcebus really does cheer us with
his rays by-and-bye. At present he seems as far off
as if it were February instead of May.