The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1885-03-07 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

Tuts is pre-eminently says Th. Ladies' Pictorial the
season of receptions, that is to say, of rational
sociabilities neither so gay as to necessitate decolle ee
costumes nor so sombre as to shut out all prettiness.
Dark woollen dresses are worn for the greater part of
the day, but for toillettes de visite there is nothing so
fashionable as our old friend and ally, the self.
coloured gros grain silk. It is suitable to all ages, and
is a welcome relief to the eternal satin and velvet with
which we have become so familiar. A very pretty
new fashion is that of a bow of ribbon with long ends
worn on the left shoulder of the dress indoors, or on
the mantle when out of doors or visiting. They must
either harmonise or contrast with the toilette: for
instance, if the dress, mantle, &c., be black with a
crimson bonnet, the bow must be crimson; but if the
costume be violet or heliotrope, the ribbons may be
of lighter shades of the same colour. Tiny lace muffs
finished off with bows and loops of light bright ribbons
are also most fashionable, and very often the ribbon
is replaced by a bouquet of spring flowers,:

TilE shoe of the period is hall-high, neither slipper
nor boot, and when laced it leaves a little piece of
stocking visible, which looks very coquettish. The
effort to make white stockings popular has signally
failed, and, if the truth must be told, it is because
nothing makes the foot look so large as a white or so
small as a black stocking. A most lovely combination
for a toilette de visite is mauve velvet trimmed with
silver fox, with hat and bonnet to match. This is
absolutely new, and has not been seen more than once
31. twice.

VERY charming capes for young people are being
made in crimson cloth bordered with chinchilla or
grey astrachan, with muffs and toque or pork-pie hats
en sulte ; and for people who can drive everywhere,
and consequently not look remarkable, there are
leopard skin capes bordered with choice sable, and
bonnets or hats and muffs of the same. These are
particularly chic.

Tllll Queen of Spain has invented a coiffure, or
rather ale has adapted it frpm the styles of the
eighteenth century. Parisiennus have ardently copied
it, especially those of a fair and noble style of beauty,
like that of Marie Antoinette or the Princess de Lam-
bane. The hair is divided into three rows—the
first turned over on the forehead in a row of curls;
the rest forms a roll which encircles the head like a
crown.

ViTuzil low-necked dresses are worn the hair is fre-
quently allowed to fall in curls on the nape. Many
young married ladies also powder their hair, a pro-
ceeding which makes them look like portraits of a
by-gone One. There is no doubt that white or
powdered hair is very becoming to all faces, even to
the elderly; it forms a charming contrast with the
fresh cheek of youth. The custom was commenced
in the winter of 1883-84, but only a few then ven-
tured to do it. Now it is quite general for evening
coiffure.

No lady at present is without a lace skirt; the
elder have one of black, the younger of white or
cream lace. Latitude r.,s to lace and style is allowed,
for the satin foundation can either be covered with
several flounces or with one very deep one, draped
here and there with bows, chenille, or flowers. .All
young ladies possess a white lace skirt mounted on
white faille or satin. With it they wear all manner
of corsages, according to the purpose for which the
dress is required. Sometimes it is a bodice of white
faille or satin, like the skirt foundation, or else it is
of fancy silk, shot taffetas, pekin, or velvet. The
foundation should be stiffened with a muslin lining,
and the inevitable steels at the back must be intro-
duced. Sometimes, to give more elegance to the
skirt, or to slightly change its aspect, a sash is tied
round the waist in a large bow at the back. A breadth
of material forms the sash, either velvet, Borah, or
pompadour brocade.

VERY few evening toilettes (says a writer in La
Moniteur de la Mode), are made without the assist-
ance of beaded tulle. Skirts are for the most part of
satin, embroidered with chenille or beads, or of
splendid plush or velvet brocade. The long train is
more prevalent than last year among young married
ladies, and for the most part it is totally without
trimming at the edge, and is mounted with deep
pleats at the waist.

EVENING corsages have very short basques, and are
generally rather simple and close-fitting, the neck cut
out in a deep oval. For slight figure, however, the
Recamier corsage is in vogue, with low, pointed neck
and drapery from the shoulder crossing in front. It
is supplied with a short round basque which is covered
with the skirt, the waistband of which must fit very
closely, or the bodice may get pulled apart from the
skirt.

A BILL toilette of vent lumiere satin and coral-pink
broch elvet is made up with a Weamier corsage.
The skirt and train are of velvet, coral-pink satin
with moss-green flowers. The corsage has a 114-
camier drapery of vert lumiere satin which crosses
in front, and, passing beneath the moss velvet belt,
forms two elegant pointed panels towards the sides.
In reality the skirt is separate from the bodice, and
the panels are only apparently in one with the
draperies.

Colin-mit in in request for evening toilette?,
especially in combination with greens and certain
blues. On the whole most opposite colours are com-
bined in one toilette. Pale blue and pale pink is still
an admired mixture, and the combination is rendered
the more striking by the addition of grenat plush or
velvet. A ball toilette has the pink satin skirt
embroidered with grenat plush applications. The
draperies and corsage are of pale blue damask. Tho
plastron is embroidered like the skirt, and a plant of
granat chenille edges the low oval neck, and does
duty for sleeves. Corsages will be absolutely sleeve-
less throughout this season.