The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1883-10-06 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

THE marriage of a daughter of the Lord Mayor of
London which took place last week at St. Paul's
Cathedral excited considerable interest,—a weddir g in
the metr ,politan cathedral being an unusual event
It is stated that only two marriages have taken place
there since 1758 The approaches to the cathedral
were crowded with people anxious to catch a glimpse
of the bridal party. The interior of the sacred edifice
was filled with spectators in every part, the choir being
reserved for the nearest relatives and most intimate
friends of the contracting couple. It was just before
twelve o'clock when the bride arrived at the west door
and was received by the Lord Mayor and her eight
bridesmaids. The service being fully choral, the clergy
and choristers met the bridal procession, and preceeded
it to the steps of the choir. The bride's dress was
ivory•white satin, with front of embossed velvet,
trimmed with lace, and having a large bouquet of
orange blossoms at the neck. Her veil was of
Brussels lace. She wore no wreath, but carried
a beautiful bouquet, the gift of the bridegroom.
The bridesmaids' dresses were very pretty. The
bodice and waterfall tunic were of ivory-white
brocaded silk, over a skirt of lace flounces, and a
bunch of red Virginian creeper was fastened on the
bodice. They wore wreaths of the same bright leaves,
and tulle veils. Each wore also a plain gold bracelet,
and carried a bouquet of choice flowers, the bride-
groom's gifts, the two children carrying baskets to
correspond. The Lady Mayoress wore a train of deep
ruby velvet over a petticoat of canary•coloured satin
with which the train was also lined, and ruby velvet
bonnet. There were many handsome toilettes among
the wedding party. One was of rich prune Ottoman
silk, with which pale blue flowered brocaded was most
tastefully intermixed, and the exquisite lace &hi' was
fastened to the bodice with several diamond orna-
ments. Her bonnet was of creem-coloured open
work, trimmed with cream and prune feathers.
Another dress worn by a young lady was of white
satin, with bodice and waterfall tunic of white brocade
trimmed with swansdown; white chip bat and
feathers.

SPEAKING of ladies' dresses from a medical point of
view, the British Medical Journal says : "Evils
doubtless are often produced by the use of braces,
and especially when a heavy weight is suspended. This
weight is often unnecessarily great in consequence of
the looseness of ladies' clothing. If, instead of hang.
ing a quantity of loose clothes round the legs, the
garments covering these extremities were chiefly close-
tating, the weight of the clothing might be very much
lessened, because when close to the body they ts-eserve
the warmth much better than when surrounding the
legs loosely. The principle of dual garments might be
carried on without altering the external appearance of
female dress; for, with the use of warm, close-fitting
drawers or trousers, the outer skirts might be made in
the usual manner, but of much less thickness and
weight. Many ladies now wear neither stays nor sus-
penders, and yet experience no difficulty in supporting
their skirts, chiefly upon the hips."

TBICYCLING having become quite a popular recrea•
tion with the fair sex, the question of an appropriate
costume for the purpose is engaging attention. In
reply to an inquiry a correspondent of the Queen says:
—"I find the following a comfortable and neat dress:
—4.. plain skirt of dark woollen material 1 yards in
width, long enough to touch the ground when stand-
ing, lined up about 15in. with washleather ; two
buttons on front width, just below the jacket, with
loops of fine cord t loop over for convenience in
walking up bill ; an all-round jacket, either Norfolk.
or with narrow pleats back and front, with belt and
watch pocket ; the sleeves buttoned to wrist, to admit
of gauntlet gloves fitting neatly. The jacket should
not be tight, as tricy cling is warm exercise. Eight
yards of single width material are sufficient. Shoes
are more comfortable than boots."

UNDER the heading " The Layette" the Queen
devote,. an artic'e to the subject of infants' clot:dog,
from which we take the following hints :—The hood
and cloak are constantly gifts, and are not generally
provided with the layette. The cloaks are made of
cashmere, embroidered in Every describable manner.
We have seen useful and handsome cloaks made of
swansdown marcella. This material, trimmed with
broderie Anglaise, is most useful, as it will bear
weekly washing if necessary, and is as warm, ff not
more so, than the cashmere cloak. An excellent and
much required addition to the child's dress out of
doors, is a knitted over flannel shirt to wear under the
robe. This knitted petticoat is often used when the
child is old enough to sit up, it is high and with
long sleeves, fastening behind, or else made in a
manner which avoids screwing back a child's arm if it
fastens in front.

THE leading London firms make but few changes in
the shape of infants' clothes, the slight one that have
been made in the last few years are still "the thing,"
and every little innovation, if we may so call it, has
been so far conducive to health, One fashion, a very
expensive one, the cap, is now rarely followed.
Change is most noticeable in the high•necked bodice,
and long sleeve of the shortened robe. Few robes are
made with a skirt more tban three•quarters of a yard
in length, and few are made with low necks; some
even have long sleeves. These robes are usually of
fine mull or nainsook muslin trimmed with lace and
embroidery, The most beautiful we have seen were
worked by a lady, a front of the robe en tablier
and in satin stitch. The plain skirts with gradu•
ated tucks and insertion of lace between make
a very handsome robe, but, and it is a serious
but, this needlework must be the very best,
tucks hemmed, not run, and hemm2d with almost
invisible stitches; rough arid ready sewing must not
be tolerated in any part of this wardrobe. Those who
cannot afford the finest materials, may, by their
exquisite stitchery, have a more beautiful layette than
those who employ the most expensive fabrics, The
monthly robes are of jaconet, or thicker muslin; they
are always made with long sleeves and high necks, and
are not much trimmed; a breadth and a half forma
the middle of a gown if it is carefully gored. The best
pattern for this little gown is one in which bodice and
skirt are cut in one piece. Six of these gowns at leat
are required. The night dress is made of fine long.
cloth; it should have a sash and be trimmed with
frills; eight to a dozen are usual. The white petticoat
is made of jaconet muslin, like the robe, but quite
plain, without sleeves.

The little shirts are made of the finest lawn or
French cambric. Six of the first size are usual; these
are made open in the front. The second size is made
of rather a stronger quality, and inclosed at the sides
with flips for a boy, the little round shape for a girl.
One of the greatest improvements we have noticed is
in the flannel pileh. The flannel is superseded by
swansdown calico; this will bear boiling, which flannel
will not. A half•square is sewn into a band, the two
extreme corners cut off about four inches from the
point; in the third point a button-hole is made, which
fastens on to the button on the band, or on one placed
on the material below the band.