The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1885-10-31 00:00:00

THE NEW AFGHAN BOUNDARY:

THE DEFENCE OF INDIA,

GOSSIP:OLDRE§I3;
,
Tun following is from the Qe.tegt.:: rturing tb
pleasant summer boating days on the Thames, a stylii
of dress was generally adopted—the iiP3oialitY of*
Windsor tradesman—which was easy to wear, 104
becoming. It consisted of a black flannelnr fine sefge
skirt, housemaid style, but with a plain frofit; a shire
of white, pale blue, pink, or any fancy striped flannel,
and a sash loosely knotted at one side. The hat was
the sailor shape, and for warmth, a -cape of black
serge was sometimes added. Now this style has made
its appearance in many country houses, with the addi-
tion of the smart little Figaro jacket. Many of our
readers will recall days not long ago, when Garibaldi
shirts of muslin, silk, and flannel were vim, With
black or coloured skirts, and were quite a la mode,
often with Zouave jackets of velvet or merino. Truly,
fashion repeats itself; but in the present case the
shirt is closer to the figure, kept up by a deep waist-
band. The scarf is usually passed loosely round the
bins, with the ends tarried over, and falling at the left
side, or else it is draped rather low in front, secured
on the right hip by a brooch or large ornament, or a
silver clasp velvet bag fastened to the skirt, and then
tied in a large bow, at the left side, rather far back.
The skirt is plain in front, all the necessary fulness
being at the sides and back in gathers or in plaits.

ON some figures this costume becomes picturesqu
as well as smart. The Firibaro jacket has long sleeves
but does not reach, by two inches or more, to the
waist, and is cut away from just below the throat
and rounded. Ball fringe, narrow marabout, or flat
passementerie ornaments many jackets, but others
are quite plain. For warm wear a sealskin Figaro
looks well with a brown skirt and a red, orange, or blue
shirt. Astrakan is also used. Many women prefer
the close-fitting bodices, pointed in front, under these
jackets, with sleeves of thin lining ; and for this pur-
pose handsome uncommon fabrics are used, and two
or three are in constant wear. Oddments can be
used up thus with good effect, as quite a small piece
suffices.

ANOTHER popular make is a princcsse dress either
of some new curly cloth, broad striped wool fabric, or
fancy stuff, cut away in front from side to side to dis-
close a kilted petticoat of velvet or plain cloth. The
cuffs, collar, and coat ievers are of velvet, the bodice
fastens to one side, and the revers is continued in a
plain band of velvet down to the side of the skirt;
the other side is trimmed to match. One gown I saw
made in this fashion was composed of cinnamon and
dark brown curly cloth shot with red, with revers and
petticoat of brown velvet, edged on each side with
brown wood (rosary) beads as large as an oak apple.
A red silk handkerchief peeped out of a pocket
placed high on the left hip, and red hose in bronze
shoes concluded the whole. These " rosary " bead
passementeries are gaining in favour. It is one, of
the fancy work " fads " of the day to collect brown
wooden beads of any kind and shape, and adapt them
to bronze leather, brown braid, or velvet, tracing a
design, and working it with silks. The whole, when
finished, is displayed as collars, cuffs, waistcoats, and
also on hats and bonnets. In the commonest little
shops brown beads in stringo are to be seen hanging
up. The carved ones, from abro9.3, are also utilised
for the same purpose.

ANOTHER kind of fashionable handiwork consists of
going over lace designs with coloured silks in chain-
stitch. A good, boldly-defined pattern must be
selected, and the lace need not be expensive. One
coloured silk is often carried over the whole.
Flouncings, vests, and the front or panels of skirts
are arranged thus. Cream lace, worked over in gold-
coloured knitting or filoselle silk, looks effective,
especially if draped over gold-coloured satin; also
red over red, in the same way. Black lace may be
used. For smart five o'clock tea-cloths this chain-
stitched lace is now fashionable, some of it being
worked up in colours, according to the taste of the,
worker, to an elaborate extent.

FIGARO hats are becoming to some faces, and are
worn with neat tailor-made costumes. These hats
are merely straw, with a deep brim, turned up in the
Spanish style, but higher in the crown, and with a
closer brim. They are bound with velvet, and have
two full feather rosettes, perched up rather to one
side. Silk hats, of the same make as men's, but with
high pointed crowns, are making their appearance, in
various colours, to match the costume. They are
more peculiar than becoming.

CHILDREN are wearing a Tyrolese shape, in felt,
with the brim turned up at the back, and fastened to
the crown, with a high bow of velvet or, a tuft of
feathers inclining towards the front and standing
above the crown; a band of velvet round the hat, but
no trimming in front. Little girls and boys are
alike wearing the hunting or jockey shape, covered
in fluted plush. White, ruby, scarlet, and black are
fashionable. The shapes are frequently covered by
the nurse or mother at home.

Fon travelling, high-crowned felt hats with broad
brims have recently made their appearance, with the
brim turned up at the left side and back, with two
high rosettes of gauze veiling, continued as a long
scarf, which passes round the throat to the back. The
veil is the same colour as the hat, unless it is black;
then the veil corresponds with the costume. The end
is passed through al usual at the back of the neck,
and a fancy pin fastens the other end, proceeding from
the rosette at the back of the hat to the hair, to keep
it behind the ear. Notwithstanding opposition, birds
are greatly used for ornamenting hats and bonnets;
they are perched up at the sides in a startlinc, way. A.
bright red bird on a black or brown bonnet is'fashion-
able.

Swill of the leading dressmakers are making muffs
in the velvet and material of the costume, in bag form,
with a broad ribbon run through, to suspend them on
the arm when not required. There is also an
attempt to attach them to the ends of very long
bonnet strings, which, after being pinned under the
chin, fall down to the waist, and are secured to the
jacket by large fancy pins. The chin bow is a made-
up one, and the pins are placed at the waist, to take
off the strain of the hanging muff. Two fur boas are
now used to trim a short mantle, one being put round
the neck and down the front, and the other carried
round the basque, and allowed to fall at the side just
Wider the sleeves. The sleeves are edged with fur to
match. Each one falls considerably below the mate-
rial of the mantle. The effect is good, especially in
plush and fur.

EIDERDOWN petticoats are becoming more poptae;
than they were, and a few women have a steel run
round the edge to keep the heavy winter skirt
out. An elastic band placed inside, and
secured to each side, keeps the petticoat back. It
light, excellent wear; and warm coarse worsted lace,
in colours, is popular for dress purposes. Some of
the flouncings, for draping over silk, are almost a yard
deep. The new ribbons in shaded plush are lovely,
and so are others of alternate stripes of satin and
curly floss silk; also of satin and shot plush. The
canvas ribbons, with coloured and gold lines, have
been improved upon since their debut in summer, and
can be had in every desirable shade; and there are
Bilk ones, striped with velvet and gold thread, with as
many as seven or eight colours introduced.
Tun hair is dressed very high in the evening, and
is either dotted over with combs, fancy-headed pins,
and jewelled butterflies, or ornamented with a tuft of
real or artificial flowers placed almost on the top of
the head. Combs are in favour, and jewellers have
recently been engaged in re-arranging diamonds to
form the high-backed Spanish comb or one with a
band of single stones. They are worn either at the
top of the basket plaits, or put in slantwise at the
side of the head, or firmly placed in the front to form
a coronet, with a pouf of small feathers at one end.
Some heads are arranged with the hair crepe, and
drawn back over a low frisette cushion, tied at the
back, divided and plaited into two plaits, and then
coiled round, rather apart from each other, one
going up as high as possible. The fringe is left as
usual.

As several weddings are announced, and likely to
come off during the next few months, a few words
on bridal and bridesmaid's gifts may not come amiss.
A diamond lucky slipper is one of the last noveltiep ;
also a white or coloured crepe fan, painted, and out
out round the edges to imitate feathers; handker-
chief case in plaited ribbon of two colours, with a
handkerchief inside; bouquet-holders in embossed
silver; leather writing-case, with a large monogram
outside, and filled with all the fashionable varied
fancy paper of the day. Sz:c. For bridal gifts, a com-
plete set of toilet requisites in embossed silver still
keeps in the ascendant, but some novel bracket:clocks,
one to fit into a corner and the other to hang against
the wall, with places for china below, are greatly
appreciated, as is a new five o'clock kettle made in
the form of a curling stone; the silver grenade
smelling bottle, and also mounted nutmegs, cleverly
representing animals, and a ring or ashtray of a large
pearl shell, with a mouse sitting on the edge, are all
lular gifts.

"I am able to announce," says "Man about Town,'
in the County Gentleman, "that a great scheme for
the defence of India has been laid out. It is a huge
undertaking, but the Indian Government has approved
of it, and it now awaits the sanction of the home
authorities. The cost is calculated to be no less than
80 million pounds sterling, to be spent in eight or
ten years. The plan includes the defence of Singapore,
Ceylon, Aden, Bombay, and Kurrachee. The latter
place will be a most important post. This, to begin
with, is a large order; but it is by no means all.
In pursuance of the new scheme proposed for the
protection of India, a railway will be made to Pisheen
passing through a strongly entrenched camp there.
The Khojak Pass is to be fortified, and a powerful
post created at Chumar, which will be the terminus
of the rail. From thence th Candahar all the earth-
works and bridges are to be made so that rails can
N 3 laid down in a few days. It is also proposed, I
;alley, to have the earthworks and bridges prepared
for a railway from Candahar to Cabul. The
scheme for the defence of India shows that
Poshawur is to be strongly fortified and a strong
post established at Jumrood, and a strategic line
of rails to be laid along the banks of the Indus, con-
necting the posts of Kohat, Dera Ismael Khan,
Attock, &c. The plan, moreover, provides that har-
bours of refuge for women, children, the sick, and the
invalid, are to be formed at the hill stations of
Murra, Dalhousie, and Kassauli. If Russia gives us
time to carry out all these things, we ought to be
able to hold her in check very easily. But strongly
fortified places, unless well defended, are sources of
weaknesa rather than of strength. And one is bound
to ask how many men it will take to maintain such a
scheme of defence as this."

True politeness requires that the young shall
respect the old, the strong the feeble, and man the
woman.
Effeminacy is not politeness, and in truth the
feeble can never attain to the perfection of fine
manners.
Music is a great social instrument, and in the
home circle its influence purifies, elevates and
strengthens. ,
It is an unfortunate fact that many of us put off
our manners as we put off our boots—directly we get
home. 1
__ .

Fine manners in their highest manifestations are
the expression of a generous temper, a refined taste,
and a cultivated mind.

It requires more virtues to make a good husband
or wife than what go to the finishing off the most
shining character whatsoever. .
i
A lady when asked to sing should at once comply,
_ _ . . . . _ -,ild

The little farcical comedy of insincere excuses
pretended apologies is an insult.
If the courtesy of sending you an invitation to,a
wedding has been extended do not allow it to go
noticed, Your card enclosed in env_cive eissitt

mail is bufacient.

PARLIAMENT OUT OF SESSION. COURAGEOUS RESCUE AT A FIRE.
Lord Randolph Churchill presided on Saturday at , About a quarter to twelve o'clock on Monday night
a dinner of the Midland Conservative Club at Bir- some persons p.ssiug down Great Dover-street,
mingham. Answering the charge of presumption Borough, London, discovered that No. 25 was on fire.
brought against him for opposing the election of Mr. The alarm was raised, and while some persons ran for
Bright, he said that at the time he was chosen for the the fire-escape mid engine, others set off in search of
Central Division it was not known who would be his a ladder. This was soon procured, and it was placed
opponent. He expressed curiosity to learn from Mr.! spinet the side of the burning house. Police-constable
Bright's address on what platform he would stand, j. Hackett (252 M) ascended it, and at the same time
observing that it would be difficult for Mr. Bright to Police-constabie Bow (12) M) forced open the street-
support Mr. Gladstone after leaving his Administra- ! door and made his way into the passage, where he
tion for violating the moral law, whilst from his encountered Mr. Perkins, who implored him to save
recent speech it would appear the tenets of the his wife, who he thought was on the stairs. The
modern Radical Party were extremely distasteful to smoke was E 0 thick and blinding that the con-
him. I stable was forced to shut his eyes and grope
_ _ _ _

Lord Hartington, speaking at Darwen on Saturday about, but he succeeded in reaelling Mrs. -Per-
evening, attempted a definition of Liberal principles kiwi, whom he found half suffocated and
upon which the party, as a whole, were agreed. crouched up on the staircase. He took her
Muniepal Socialism, he said, had not been admitted up in his arms, and regained the street in
into the body of Liberal doctrine, though it possibly safety. Police-constable Hackett had smashed the
might be at some feture day. As to expropriation, 'bedroom window on the first floor in the meantime.
though Parliament had already accepted the prin- The place, however, was filled with smoke, the heat
ciple, he declined to pledge himself to any great ex- being also intense. The officer, who was obliged to
ten.ion of it for objects not as yet fully discussed or crawl on his hands and knees, came across a little boy
clearly defined,
and a woman, both of whom he handed down into the
In furtherance of his candidature for a Lancashire
keeping of some people on the ladder. Hackett re-
Division, Colonel Stanley spoke at Preston on Satur- commenced his search, and next rescued a Mrs. Smith.
day night. He said that Conservatives had ever
Mr. Sullivan was the last found on the burning pre-
reason to be satisfied with what they heard of Liberal mises. Just then, however, those in charge of the
secessions, on account of the extreme doctrines of the ladder were compelled, owing to the flames, to beat a
Radicals; but he trusted that, whichever party was retreat with it, and had not the fire-escape been
victorious in the coming elections, it would have a pitched against the burning house at this juncture,
strong majority. I both of the men must have perished in the flames.
Speaking on Saturday at Derby Dale in support of As t
e machine,wa s, each
and d o h
ina turnli t caughtte
guholdro on fd m
ropeaa iamidst a n
s attachedsce e
the Radical candidate for the Holmfirth Division of to the
Yorkshire, Mr. Mundella, M.P., said they were living of much excitement. The flames speedily enveloped
at a crisis in the history of the country, and he hoped the whole house, which was of 12 rooms, and the sur-
every one of them realised that fact. For the first rounding property appeared to be in imminent danger.
time they were in the practical enjoyment of political Although tons of water wore played on the fire, it was
power, and he knew his countrymen too well to have not thoroughly subdued till two o'clock on Tuesday
any doubt what the result would be. He believed that morning.
Scotland would send, te least, ten Liberals to one
Conservative, while the Welsh Conservatives were '
powerless to send to Lord Salisbury even one man.
Of the results of the elections in the
north of England he had no doubt, and there was
a rising in the south and west of England such
as had never been seen before in our history. There
would be Tory members in the new Parliament, and a
good many of them, but they would be very different
Tories to those of the old Parliament. The party
were undergoing a sort of transformation, they
were beginning to talk upon subjects which formerly
they reg zded with detestation.
Lord Stosebery was the principal speaker at an
evening meeting at Wrexham. He said that if the
House of Lords could not be altered then away with
it. He offered no defence of it as it is. He was in
favour of a Second Chamber as it might be made, but
he would rather take his chance of reform than take
a leap in the dark. He spoke of the House of Lo di
as being a kind of Tory caucus.
li4Mr. Muudella, M.P., addressing his constituents at
Sheffield on Monday night, spoke of the effect of
household suffrage in the boroughs, and proceeded to
say that he was against an aggressive colonial policy,
though he did not object to a legitimate expansioa of
the Empire. On the question of colonial federation,
he was at one with Lord Resebery and Mr. Forster.
Neither Germany nor any other European Power
could encroach with impunity on the limits of our
great Australian colonies, wha would not long tole-
rate in their vicinity a form of Government hostile to
their own.
Sir R. A. Cross, speaking at Farnworth, near
Bolton, challenged Lord Hartington to say that he
was for the maintenance of the House of Lords,
Church and State, and religious education in schools.
Sir Michael Hicks-Beach, Chancellor of the Ex-
chequer, addressing a Conservative meeting at
Cheltenham on Monday night, condemned the policy
of the late Government in regard to the Soudan.
Mr. Gladstone's Government, he contended, quitted
office with a party object, but did so a little too soon
to attain it. He denounced Mr. Chamberlain's land
scheme as being unjust to the landowners, and as an
engine of political corruption.
Sir Henry James, speaking at Bury, expressed his
belief that the Church is in sympathy with the nation,
and said that he should not vote for disestablishment
in the next Parliament.
Addressing a large meeting at moia on Amesnay
night, Lord Richard Grosvenor alluded to the
necessity of reform in the rules of procedure in t.,e
House of Commons. Without such reform, he said,
it was hopeless to expect the other great reforms
which the country demanded, and of which it was
undoubtedly in need.
Mr. Forster has written a letter to the Liberal
Association for the Central Division of Bradford, in
which he states that he strongly supports the four
measures mentioned in Mr. Gladstone's manifesto,
and expects to be in full agreement with Mr. Glad-
stone in regard to other questions. The association
have decided to adopt Mr. Forster as their candidate,
and not to trouble him to address the electors.
Sir Henry James, speaking at Bury, devoted his
speech to a refutation of the Fair Trade doctrine,
showing that if a tax on corn and meat were fixed at
only per cent., it would amount to forty millions of
taxation per annum.
Lord John Manners on Tuesday night commenced
his election campaign in the Melton Division of Lei-
cestershire by addressing a crowded audience in the
Corn Exchange, Melton. He contended that the
Liberals had no policy on the question of Discs-
tablishment ; that the scheme of peasant pro-
prietors, as stated by Mr.. Chamberlain, would not
be beneficial to the country, and that in other
countries it was maintained only by extraordinary
protective duties.
Mr. W. H. Smith, Secretary for War, addressed a
meeting at Dorking ors Tuesday night in support of
the candidature of Sir Trevor Lawrence for the
Reigate Division of Surrey. He asserted that Mr.
Gladstone's Government resigned because they were
glad to escape from the difficulties which they had
created. He proceeded to say that it was the duty of
the Government to ascertain what caused depression
in trade, and legislate for the advantage of the whole
community.