The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1869-02-20 00:00:00

THE PILGRIMAGE TO MECCA.
FEBRUARY 6.

The Prince of Wales, It may be remembered, was in Egypt
and went up the Nile in 1862, bet the Princen of Wales has
never seen the East before. Great must have been the transi-
tion from Trieste to Alexandria: but what was it compared
with the scene which her Royal Highness witnessed to-day?
Of the thousands of Europeans who vieit Cairo there are few
who have the fortune to behold the spectacle which may be
described in many books to me unknown, but which can
never be adequately described in any Is erk at all. The sight
is called "the departure of the pilgrim for Metca." That
is a misnomer. It is in reality a procession of sheiks and
holy men and the sacred Mohnul and Kinceh, escorted by
irregular cavalry and guns, which leaves the city to go out to
the real pilgrims encamped on the plain of Akbar, outside
Cairo. The Malone/ is a canopy of gold and velvet which
was used to cover the saddle of the wife of the Caliph on her
journey to Mecca. The Kinuelt is the covering which is put
over the temple at Mecca.
Several days ego the pilgrbna set out from Cairo and en-
camped on the Abbasaya. What rites and ceremonies they
may have been since performing, inside and out, I know riot;
but last night all sightseers were warned that the curious
ceremonial which has just been Germinated was to come off
smin after 0 o'clock At th .t hour the Viceroy's carriaees
were in waiting at the Prince's palace, and a guard of honour,
with e trumpet band, WM drawn up in the open space be-
tweet: the building and the street. There were very few
people attracted by the show of horses and guards,: but the
crowds which gathered in the narrow streets through which
the procession was to pus gave some evidence of the enor-
mous population of this swarming city.
The Priuce and Princess and their suite, attended by the
Carriages which the Duke of eutherland and Ids party owe to
the courtesy of the Viceroy, set out about 10 o'clock to see
the beginning of the pilgrimage, and drove to the open space
beneath the Grand Mosque, famous as the scene of the demo-
lition of the Mantelukes toy Mehemet All. They were preceded
by a few horst:men, and by She running footmen who are
the heralds of every carriage in Cairo—by night the pillars
of tire, for they bear aloft on high poles a sort of beacon
fiercely blazing as they run, and lighting up all the street,
and by day they bound with feet that never tire before the
homes, crying out incessantly in Arabic, " Mind your toes !"
or " Look out, there :" soil the like, thus frsely translated—
clad in white fluttering garments, with bishop like sleeves,
loose short trousers coming a little way below the knee, but
glorious in gold•emitroidered vests and silken sashes. To a
man of cruel or arbitrary disposition the office must be road-
aide, for it gives, apparently, a right to the bearer to smite
whatever and whenever he pleases. The number of unoffend-
leg men, and camels, and asses punished every day by smart
raps of a long cane for doing nothing at all but being alive
in Cairo by these officials must amount to many hundreds,
and they all bear it with equal mind and body. . . .
The route from the Pnnce's palace to the open space
below the Citadel lies through a part of the town
which Is, perhaps, the most striking and interesting
of all Cairo. Familiar as the city is to European
travellers, there is about its streets an ingredient of
what may be understood, though not defined, by the word
" orientalism," which can never weary, which is ever
suggesting new ideas, or reviving old ones, or exciting
curiosity. How much The Arabian Nights' Entertain-
ments nray haveto do with this interest cannot be readily
determined....
The word ' street" gives no conception of the tortuous
narrow lane which scarcely ever yields a view of 100 yards
In front or behind you and which at titnee seems to end
abruptly by the cordial greeting of two houses at opposite
sides, and by their resolute blockade of the infinitesimally
small entrance; but at either aide there is quite enough to
detain the stranger for a pleasant ten minutes—for every ten
paces if he likes—to loiter and be jostled by asses and shoved
aside by the crowd, or scared by growling, fierce-trotted
camels. There are the bazaar shops, with their varied
stores, and their still niore varied and eurioue owners
and customer., and there are the incorrigible, persecuting
donkey boys, who will never desist from importunate,
stick-disregarding solicitation, till the pedestrian !Donets
" Champagne Charley," "Lord John Russell," " l'almerston,"
or some other famous quadruped with long ears and in-
domitable backbone....
The women at Cairo now sat chattering with their
children in every safe recess in the streets. They gazed out
ef the latticed windows, through the sluice-like open traps,
and through the open case:none,, crowded the flat roofs,
swarmed on the mosque-tope and clustered in the doorways,
clad in sweeping robes, which in their cemloination form
such tempting yet distracting subjects for the artist who
loves to paint masses ef coloured drapery. If eyes can beau
intlex to the character of the rest of the face, many of the
ladies must hue been very beautiful, but many, too, showed
the ravages of ophthalmia, which the artifice of blackened
eyebrows only made more evident. The men and boys lined
the streets and sat in the bazaar shops—the men of the dif-
ferent nations and faiths have their representatives here,—
Arabs, Jews, Copts, Syrians, E.yptians, Turk., Franks,
Nublaes, Albanions, Anatolians, Greeks, l'ersians, Circa.
glans, " herbarium," and dwellers in partsbue
dressed each after his kind, and on all the shifting kaleido-
scopic multitude, over which the fine dust rose from the
tread of many feet, there came down here and there,
through the chinks of the latticed screen which covers in
the streets, rays of sunshine which produced through the
hazy medium the meat striking and charming effects of
light and shade.
Through this scene imagine the camels plodding along
with ponderous loads of green vetches, asses hidden under
mounds of vegetables and tares for fodder, or laden with
Important portions of a smell family, horses and ponies and
their riders, mules and dromedaries with their turbaned or
veiled burdens, and then see an advance guard of native
outriders, followed by a host of running footmen, in front
ef an open carriage with prancing horses, driven by an un-
mistakable British coachman, capitally turned out, with cock-
ade in his hat, and tops complete, pressing through the
throng, with a great accompaniment of strange cries—and
you may fancy the expression of delighted surprise and
curiosity which animated a fair gentle face dear to so many
millions of people in islands far away from this. The
Princess was evidently exceedingly pleased, though now and
then when a refractory camel blocked the path, or a dog
gave warning of some small personal grief or indignity, or
the carriage was canght at a narrow corner by a stray por-
tion of the procession consisting of dromedaries with far-
extending platforms on their backs Inn chanting pilgrims,
she evinced a transient anxiety which passed away in a
moment and was succeeded by new eratitications and won.
der. The Prince enjoyed his drive more perhaps from being
able to explain new and then what was passing around them.
The good humour of the people, their civility and temper
as carriage after carriage came enushing and squeezing them
out of the roadway into shop-fronts and aide-lanes—nay,
even the placidity of holy men end dervishes of renown
whose donkeys and camels were cuffed, and whose venerable
persons were shoved miceremoniouely aside, were much to
be commended.
At last the eortage emerged Into the open space below the
citadel. Here extended round the sides of a barge extent of
cleared ground 400 yards long by 150 yards broad, or
thereabouts, it seemed, were drawn up the troops of the
line, Lancers and Zouaves of the Guard, and the 400
Irregular eavalry which are to guard the pilgrims and escort
the treasure annually sent to the sheiks of the Arab tribes
and to Mecca. Inside this line, which kept a clear space In
front, were congregated crowds of people. They were on the
citadel walls, on the flat roofs, and on the sides of the
mosques wherever they could see, and above them all shone
a bright can in a sky of heavenly blue. As the Prince ass.
Princess of Wales came in sight the troops presented army
along the lines, the irregular cavalry tapped their little
saucer-like drums, and the bands saluted with the Zeuave
As gu vu la eatquette, dee.. de Flee /3tigeend," now familiar
SO so many Britisher. The carriages dreve up to a raised
dais, which was draped with curtains of scarlet and gold,
and provided with chairs, where the Viceroy's eldest son
and the young Pasha, surrounded by the officers of State in
full nuiform, received them. Seats were provided here for
the Consular body and their friends and the principal
resident' and visitors in Cairo, and, indeed, a white face arid
a bed hat and shabby travelliug clothes cut in Loudon,
Paris, or New York, seem to be a paaapert here to ever,
The carriages drew to the left flank and front of the dais,
and all orded capital podula of view. For a few momenta
there were nothing but compliments, and civilities, anti
introductions, and the Prince made the acquaintance of the
little Pasha, who was beautif al to look at in tearlet stockings
and scarlet and gold knickerbockers, and a drab or cram-
coloured Jacket sleighed with gold lace.
In due course the head at the procession emerged from
under an archway at the opposite side of the esplanade, and
came towards the dais. It waa preceded by men with sticks
to keep away the crowd, and they certainly kept their Welts
going in a way which wouldastonish aline of heaters cia home
voterl. h and 9t UM tag boys chliliiag lad

shontingin front of the camels, one of which bore a canopy
Bft. or Sft. high of cloth of gold over the holy saddle, others
sustained lofty saddles and saddle bags, lecurated with enema
branches and short flagstaffs with beepers, others carried
holy hadjees or sheiks, and one was honoured by a peeuliar,
If not agreeable load--s very sainted personage, whose great
merit It was and is to keep turning his head round on
his neck, as if it were fixed on S universal joint, all the way
to Mecca. This man, very fat and unctuous to behold, IMO
bare headed ; his grizzled, dark, and dirty looking curly
hair, divided in the centre, being his only covering from the
blazing sun of Arabia. His body was stripped down to the
waist, and gave evidence that the holy man It on flesh very
successfully In spite of hie head turnings. His eyelids were
half closed, and his fat face had an utter want of expression
quite suitable to the head to which it belonged, which went
round and round from right to left at every jog of the much
more intelligent-looking camel which he lestrode straddle-
legged. Year after year this holy man has turned his empty
head in pilgrimages to Mecca, and seems none the worse—
nay. all the better for it, though thousands of his fellow-
pilgrims who do not turn their beads perish miserably.
When the holy camel of the canopy came to the dais, the
young Pasha was handed the holy cord. and kissed it. and
, then the chief sheik took it and kissed it, and the procession
of camels, of singing men and shouting boys. and • turbu-
lent straggling guard deified twice In a circle in front of the
dais, while the cum of the citadel thundered out a salute.
The camels sod their riders and attendants then marched
away towards the city to take part in the greater provession.
Next came, dashing at full speed from the end of the
esplanade, • solitary horseman holding a long Quivering
lance with a tremendous head, which he poised acres Ilii
saddle, and now and then thrust forward right and left.
this was the leader of the irregular horsemen, "the Lord of
the Land," • great chief in Egypt this day. He threw his
horse on its haunches with &cruel bit, wheeled round, dashed
here and there, wielding but not throwing his jereed, and
careless of the multitude, which now broke into the enclosed
space and pressed round the dais.
There is a habit of giving money annually at this festival,
and there is frightful fighting and confusion on the occasion,
but in consideration for the Princess it was not observed
now. The results of a scramble might lie guessed at from the
scene which occurred when no money at all was given, tor the
police and the cavalry had to clear the way through the
" people " in a way which would have done Superintendent
Walker good to see. Sticks ! I should think bludgeons,
whips—why, it rained blows on the heads and shoulders of
the King mob, who has a very hard time of it here, indeed.
How no skull was cracked was a marvel to those who think
the Egyptian cranium Is not solid. But the crowd was cleft
asunder, and no corpses were seen on the ground, and the
carriages drove oft from the dais to catch thereat procession,
and see it pass in a street In the town leading to the Abbas:aye
In full perfection. The route lay for the most part through
narrow lanes and streets In which there was scarcely a sign
of life. The shops were generally close d, but here and there
a more Industrious or less curious workman sat cross-legged
beside a heap of cakes or sweetmeats, and a few of the in-
habitants were visible, who drew at one site, wondering at
the sight of the passing carriages. After a time, however.
as came out into the crowded thoroughfare, and here, again,
and even with greater difficulty than before, the little rort,ge
made its way to the house provided for the accommodation
of the Prince and Princess and those who attended in their
suite. Passing through au open ptortr-eochere, where the
Prince and Princess were received by Egyptian gentlemen
in waitbig, the party ascended a steep staircase which led to
tem large rooms with carpets and divans, the open windows
of which looked out on the street below. Far as the eye
could reach up ant down on either side, it was crowded in
the same way as the part of the city which I have already
tried to describe. .

Pipes and coffee were, of course, brought in, anti unac-
customed lips made some slight experiment on the massive
amber mouthpieces. But a hum anti bustle in the crowd
below soon summoned the party to the windows. Round a
turn in the street there soon came in view streams of men
and boys in turbans and fez preceded by a few horsemen
tapping a small saucer-like drum, and by men on foot with
sticks and balls slung to cords like those used by jugglers at
home, who cleared the way for a very motley, picturesque,
and eccentric multitude. There was a certain order In the
procession of footmen, for those who composed it generally
marched abreast, four or five or six in front. The turbans
worn by different sections were mostly the same colour. The
banners which diversified the procession every few Yards,
green and white and yellow, inscribed with texts from the
Koran, were borne two and two, and were suspended from
lofty poles with gilt tops. There were many hundreds of
these banners, which are oily used on this occasion every
year, and are stored up carefully in the intervals by the
sheiks when the ceremony is over. Between these banners
and tall gilt poles came men and boys attuning shrill cries or
chaunting in unison with a certain sort of monotonous
, sweetness verses from the Koran. Others marched to the
sound of flageolets and drums without any particular
rhythm, tune, or time. Occasionally there appeared some
singular, if not revolting, object to create an unusual
excitement. Now a man stripped to the waist holding
by hilt and point a curved sword, which he premed against
his naked stomach betiding over the blade which had no
power to hurt him, for very good reasons—the edge
was blunt. But the point was not always so, since we
saw an indiscreet eabreur who forgot that fact and cut his
finger to his evident discomfiture. Then men holding by
the tail writhing serpents three or four feet long, which
darted out their forked tongues at the bare legs of the shrink.
big crowd. Anon, it was another shirtless man, who leapt
about brandishing two unsheathed swords, and drew them
across his neck and belly. Now a group of boys walked past
slinging balls of metal on sticks, like cup and ball, or buniing
incense in braziers. Through the crow.i moved vendors of cakes
and sweetineets and eggs coloured like those sold abroad at
Emden The bays and children were numerous and noisy. There
were venerable old men on assses and mules, real descen-
dants of the Prophet, in green turbans, or inveterate pilgrims
In long-robed dresses. There were men with big drums,
cripples who hobbled along on foot, mendicants who lived on
their piety and exceeding uncleanliness of person, 'men
beating cymbals, and tambourines and singing. The strains
of martial music of a more regular character announced the
approach of the Egyptian troupe. They were preceded by the
tottMer in command and his staff well mounted, and by a
most picturesque avant garde of pioneers, with bearskins
like those of the Old Guard, and wlute leather aprons and
great axes en regle. The battalion which marched past were
as line troops as could be seen anywhere, tall, well-set-up,
fins young men with broad shoulders and clean waists,
dressed la the fez, light blue jackets and vests with yellow
facings, scarlet trousers and gaiters is its Zonase—a dress
which the Egyptians say was borrowed by the French from
their old army. They marched admirably, kept time to a
man, and, altogether, If officered properly, looked as if they
could meet any (naps that could be brought against them on
equal terms. But breechloaders are not come to them yet.
The officers saluted the Prince's window as they rode
by. Three battalions, each headed by its trumpets playing
the Zouave paa, went by in succession, and then the
cavalry, which was headed by a band which was described
by a young gentleman fresh from England as "a caution to
rattlesnakes," defiled before the Royal party. They
were armed with green and purple flagged lances and
swords, and carried pistols in their holsters. Their
horses were small, active, unshod, arid ill-cleaned, but full
Of life. Their dress, the fez, the blue jackets and yellow
facings, yellow striped blue vest, and red trousers. After
these came the General in command with a very showy
staff, in front of whom rode a few horsemen with breech-
loading revolving carbines. Another detachment of in-
fantry came next. And next, what more? Yes, indeed, and
next the holy camels and the man with the revolving
bead went by, and after them floored on, and with
banners as before, a crowd just like the first. Then
the irregular cavalry defiled before us, beating their tune
toms, mounted on all sorts of horses, and armed with
ninny weapons, pistols stuck everywhere over them, guns
st all kinds in their hands and slung over their backs,
and pendants from their ,addles. A specimen of every
firearm made for the last 150 years c• mid assuredly have
been collected from among them. Their music was terrible
to hear, and they most have been a thorn in the flesh
to small boys as it was their sport to pluck off the (ems and
skull caps of unwary spectators and fling them among the
crowd or under the hoofs of their shoeless horses. Next, as
the end of all things, a field battery of six rifled bronze guns,
with two mules to each gun, a tumultuous crowd, some
mounted men, and the procession disappeared round an angle
In the street, which was at once filled by the people who had
previously lined it.
The Prince and Princess returned to the palace, and later
in the day the Princess drove out quietly with Mrs. Grey
through the bazaar, and did a little original shopping. The
Prince also visited the Viceroy and received many visitors.
To morrow his Royal highness and the Princess take
boat and begin their excursion up the Nile, accom-
panied by tha Duke of Satherland and his party
in another stenmer. The Prince and Princess will go
up to the Second Cateract if possible, and in that case will
certainly miss the grand ball on the 4th of March, for which
the Viceroy has issued invitations. The weather is rather
cold for Egypt, but on the whole it would peas muster very
well for an English April.