The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1884-12-13 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DEES&

Le RUet says of current fashions: The fashion of
the day is certainly with rich and heavy materials—or,
at least, with those having that appearance—and the
tissues and designs of the Louis XIV. and Louis XV.
periods, are more than ever in vogue in the mode
616gant. Brocade, silk and satin broche, silk or satin
With velvet flowers, or designs—the same with velvet
stripes or spots—failles, gros grains, velvet, plush,
watered silks, Irish poplins, and velveteens are all
most fashionably worn, the latter, if of the best
qmslity, having the great recommendation of being far
lighter in wear than appearance. We must not omit
lampas from our category. This rich material,
originally of Chinese manufacture, is now one of the
most beautiful productions of the French looms.

Watered, or more correctly,speaking, pressed plush,
is coining into fashion for evening dress; it represents
the old plush sometimes seen in art collections, and is
used for trains or panels; its thickness renders it
quite unfit for raised drapery. Some of the newest
and most elaborate figured materials are velvet bro-
cades on twilled satin foundation; separate designs
of leaves or flowers are preferred in these to the more
connected patterns. The same remark applies to the
designs in terry or velvet, whether matching the foun-
dation or of contrasting colour. Others have the
velvet pattern closely connected, in arabesques and
geometrical designs, the foundation showing only a
mere outline to these; some of the most elaborate
have this outline worked in gold or silver. With
black velvet brocades of this class yer7 fine jet beads
are sometimes used to outline the designs.

VELVET stripes are very fashionable on a variety of
silken materials; sometimes the velvets are separated
by shaded stripes of the foundation, or small trailing
designs—for instance, dark green velvet stripes on
lighter green satin, with a trail of rosebuds up the
latter, both stripes being an inch in width, or brown
velvet stripes on a ground of brown twilled satin,
with a jewelled design in gold and red. Such materials
as these are generally employed as straight over
skirt, showing the border of an underskirt of plain
material, simply covered, or edged with kilting or
rows of plissés; in either case the edge of the upper
skirt may be plain, or cut in tabs, as preferred. The
same fashion obtains in woollen materials.

PLAIN satin is again much worn for handsome
dresses; of those made this week, two styles of
making the skirt have been more admired than others;
one is on a foundation edged with a kilting of treble
plisse, the skirt is in treble box pleats, reaching a
little below the top of this tour de jupe, the pleats are
kept in place to about nine inches from the edge, this
portion is sloped upwards towards the centre of the
pleat and lined; the slope being folded into the treble
box pleat, naturally forms a coquelle, or cascade of
each. The other skirt has the front and sides of the
satin slightly draped on the foundation, causing it to
lung in loose and informal lines, which catch the
light and show the satin most effectively, an extra
half yard in length for each breadth is amply sufficient
for this facon ; the skirt thus covered is generally
edged with a double or treble bouillonne with fluted
edging each way, and the sides have guilles or not,
according to taste.

VELVET bodices and trains over lace skirts, are
" tres grand genre" for evening wear; three shades
of green are the most elegantly worn for these—they
are, myrtle, olive tioree, and a rather golden tint in
the lights, and Louis green—a magnificent shade of
emerald, with bright lights and deep shadows.

LA.cn skirts are more fashionable than ever for
dialler and other evening dresses, the deep tunic
covering the skirt? or three wide flounces, reaching
from waist to the edge of the skirt, are the leading
styles for these. Both admit of variety of arrange-
uent.

Caossw.tv bands of velvet, about four inches Wide,
and folded into a downward point in the centre,
edged with a full lace, are much liked for trimming
the fronts of lace skirts; under trains, or back
draperies especially.

VERY artistic combinations of colour are employed
in evening dresses--pale pink and myrtle green, rriOss
green and pale blue, pale china pink, with bronze or
crimson, for instance. Lace and flowers are used in
profusion on evening dresses, floral fringes and trails
being much sought for the purpose; velvet and satin
are used in their composition, as well as the ordinary
materials for the purpose. Tulles and gauzes, with
appliques, velvets, flowers, and leaves, are among the
greatest elegances; these are lightly draped, and
should be fastened by hidden stitches to the silk or
satin skirt underneath, to prevent their being torn by
the weight of the flowers scattered over them. Beaded
garnitures are, if possible, in greater favour than ever,
whole tunics being made with the designs outlined
with pearls or crystal beads. Black lace dresses are
still thoroughly fashionable, and make such useful
and elegant toilettes, their favour is not likely to
diminish. Bright coloured velvet, such as meadow
green, rose pink, coraline, are effectively used as trim-
mings; when the dress worn underneath is black, the
skirt generally has a depassant of satin plissé the
colour of the trimmings; the bodice is also sometimes
of colour, covered with black lace.

Warrlso in the Ladies' Pictorial, Madame Trois
Etoiles says : Emu feathers are becomiug very popular,
and are remarkably graceful from the way in which
they move when blown about, being always so soft and
fluffy. I noticed some the other day on a Parisian
hat that were curled and silvered. The hat was of
dark green felt, and the little rings into which these
silver feathers had been arranged were really very
new. Another long plume of them of cream-colour,
resembling an enlarged bird of Paradise tail, was also
curled at the ends of each, and made a pleasant
change on the incessant ostrich feather. Apropos of
these last, ostrich feathers have now a sprinkled
appearance, being dotted all over with a lighter colour
on dark. For instance, a brown plume will be
sprinkled with yellow, a black with crimson or white,
and so on. When wings arc worn on hats--and they
are still a very favourite ornament—they must be set
on nearly upright, so as to have a spiky, bristling
appearance, and intermixed with other feathers. I
am happy to say that the very glaring red bonnets,
with their still more hideous red veils, are becoming
a thing of the past, though much worn. They gave
a distressingly inflamed look to the face, which no
one could admire.

SOME charming children's dresses deserve a few
words. "Le Cardinal" is a delicious little coatume
in cardinal red cloth, the front being of the same
shade. The hat of red felt with plush ribbon trim-
ming. "Petit Mouton" consist of white cloth
trimmed with lamb's wool, with which is worn a white
satin hat with a large ostrich feather. " The
Siberian" is a pretty costume for a young girl from
twelve to thirteen years of ago. The material is
" Grecque " cloth, bordered with white bear, and hat
to match. The "Theodora "is made of black velvet
with old English point. The "Great Mogul" is a
handsome little costume with hat in Chartreue green
plush.

IN the Queen the following appears: Children over
ten months should always wear jackets out of doors.
Capes are very undesirable, as their weight is un-
evenly distributed, hanging entirely from the neck
and shoulders; they also open, leaving the chest ex-
posed and allowing the cold air to attack it and the
armpits. About the most charming winter jacket for
a child of any age from ten months to seven yeers is
an ermine one, with or without the little black tails,
and lined with white or pale blue satin, a little frill
of which finishes off the neck. Squirrel back is also
very pretty, lined with grey satin to match. The ad-
vantage of fur jackets is their great warmth and ex-
treme lightness; they should be made long enough to
nearly reach the ankle, and should fasten with hooks
and eyes down to the very bottom. Sealskin is not
to be recommended for children's wear, as it is
too heavy. Pretty little muffs may be made
of the same fur as the jackets, and the
nmffs should be fastened round children's necks,
so that they may not be lost. They should not, how-
ever, be hung on by a cord, which drags the neck
down by the weight of the muff attached, but should
have a broadish ribbon to match the lining passed
through them and over the child's head; this must be
prevented from pressing on the neck by being
fastened to the back of the jacket about two inches
below the collar.

Fun hoods are not to be recommended unless thty
are ventilated, as the ordinary fur hood keeps the
bead too warm, and does not permit the perspiration
to evaporate. As I said before, I now insist again,
that boys as well as girls should wear hoods. That
his sex is not publicly advertised should not be a very
serious grievance to a gentleman under five years old.
The hoods may be made of satin to match the lining
and frill of the jacket, but should be lined with fine
white cashmere.