The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1883-11-03 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

Wrrs the approach of winter, the scene in which the
fashionable world displays its treasures changes; and
dining tke3 next few months costumes appropriate for
the ball-room will engross more attention than attire
for out door wear. In connection with this it is
worthy of note that at a ball recently given under di---
tinotithed anspicee, some very noticeable toilettes were
seen, among them being a handaoine dress of plum.
coloured Patio, upon which were scattered old-gold
leaves and oak-epples ; whether there were compoiwd
of the material or sewn in, was difficult to decide; the
skirt was entirely covered with told epangies, and a
fancy coronet of spangles and jewels adorned the hair.
A dress of white corded silk, trimmed with spotted
net, was coveted with small swallows, which were
sewn here and there. Another dress ef a similar
nature, was a pea-green silk, upon which were artisti-
cally and beautifully painted life-sized martins ; it was
made in large box-plaited folds with a scarf across ;
upon the bottom of each fold, where it broke near
the ground, was a martin; the scarf was orna.
mented top and bottom with the same bird, and the
whole costume was finished by a frayed out ruching
at the bottom; a velvet ribbon was worn round the
neck, and that and the tops of the gloves were also
adorned with miniature representatione of the same
beautiful bud. A remarkable feature of this ball was
the novelty and variety both in shape, form, and
material of the necklaces. Many of them were formed
of flowers to match the trimming, same cf beads and
others of alters. In fact, the more ordinary ones of
gold and silver seemed to be almost entirely super-
seded. The shoes r early always oorreeponded with
the trimming of the dress, while the heels partook of
the c,ilour of the material. Meny long sleeves of quite
a different material to the dress or trimmings were
seen as an accompsnirnent to low dresses, and when
not long, loops of laoe or ribbon hung from the
shouldere, and fastened by the band of the glove or
mitten. 0, hers again, but these were not many, wore
high dresses with no sleeves.

MANY readers, however, will be more interested in
the subject of clothing for everyday wear ; au(' on this
point the Queen, in an article on "London Fashions,"
remarks :—There need not be much dificulty in the
choice of material for winter garments, for never were
these more varied, or greater license observable in the
selection of style or coloaring to suit individual taste.
For street wear dark shades are generally adopted ;
blues, greens, and lnin colours are all fashionably
were, plain materials being made up with silk
stripes, brocaded cloth, velvet or velveteen. The last
material is especially favoured, and much used for
kkirte, side panels, and waistcoats. A costume of fine
serge or Indian cashmere trimmed with Louis velvet
is always serviceable. A pretty gown of bluelrey
cashmere and velveteen, an exact match, had the skirt
composed of narrow perpendicular plaitings of cash-
mere, the plaits pointed at the bottom and lined with
deep crimson silk. These fell over a plain band of
velveteen at the edge of the skirt. Side panels of
velveteen, edged with shaded chenille pompons, sprang
from the waist in front, and were carried in a slanting
direction towards the lower part of the skirt, where
they were joined beneath the puffed drapery at the
baek. The jacket bodice was of velveteen, the tabbed
basque lined with crimson. The blouse waistcoat of
cashmere was trimmed with shaded pompons, and
fastened at the throat by a knot of crfineon ribbon.

Marmite, dolmans, and pelioseifor winter wear are,
if possible, more luxurious than ever; the richest
materials being heavily trimmed with handsome
fringes of chenille and jet, while in many instances the
linings of brocaded satin and Oriental elk are almost
as costly as the fabric itself The writer of the
article just quoted says that a London firm are making
superb dolmans of thick-ribbed ottoman, brocaded
with plush flowers of enormous dimensions. We
greatly admired one of this material and plain black
velvet, called the "Pamela." The upper part of
brocaded ottoman was close-fitting to below the waist,
and the long pointed aide pieces reached almost to the
edge of the skirt beneath. The space below the
waist, both back and front, was filled with deep
gathered plaitings of richest Genoa velvet, and the
plain sleeves were so arranged that epaulettes,
formed of one large plush flower, replaced the usual
gatherings on each shoulder. Toe pointed sides of
this sumptuous dolman were trimmed with close set
tassels of cut jet beadr, a full " 'oby" frill of Spanish
lace surrounded the throat, and the garment was lined
throughout with brocaded crimson satin. The "Chem.
bore dolman of black figured armure, semi-fitting,
with roomy square sleeves, was tria.med with deep
chenille fringe, each strand finished with a jet bead,
the box plaits at the back were also ornamented with
passementerie of jet and chenille. A short mantle
of velvet figured ottoman with round sleeves, called
the " Emily," was novel and exceedingly stylish, the
trimming consisting of fiat bands of thick pile plush,
beneath which fell a double row of chenille fringe of
the new "leech" pattern. A pretty mantelet for a
your lady, of yelvet,spotted ottoman, was also orna-
mented with bands of this plush, which is very rich,
looking, and another called Ondine " was edged with
a close set row of small chenille balls.

Tfil same eminent costumiers, we are told, are using
some novel materials for afternoon and visiting toilettes,
notably a rich satin in many dark shades, shot with
silk of a contrasting colour, and scattered with small
cut velvet blossoms or leaves. A costume of this
material—mlrtle.green shot with salmon and plain
ottoman silk—was exclu ively designed and carried
out at this establishment, and is worthy of a de-
tailed descriptit n as an example of workmanship,
elegance, and good testis. The straight skirt, of
myrtle ottoman, is bound with plain velvet Btu-
mounted by a narrow kilt plaiting. The over skirt,
which is of figured shot satin, is plain in front,
plaited at the hack, and opened on one side down
its entire length, and i 4 tied across at interv..le
with velvet bows lined with salmon satin. The bodice
Is also of figured shot satin, with a long folded
wsistelat of plain ottoman, edged with frilling. of
ttrre cuit lace. There folds are carried slantwise.
across the chest, from right to left, and are continued
below the waist, where they form a panier at one side,
terminating in a puffed drapery at the back of the
skirt, where is also placed a cluster of velvet loops, lined
with salmon colour. The sleeves are slightly gathered
on the shoulders, and have cuffs of plain ottoman, with
ruffles of tinted lace. Another costume of chocolate
velvet and brown and gold•striped pokin, had the
plaited striped skirt surrounded with a folded scarf of
velvet; the long coat tailed bodice, with revers at the
back, was lined with similar material; a gathered
waistcoat of pain, arranged as a long scarf, was car-
ried round one side in a full panier, which terminated
beneath the coat tails at the back.

CHENILLE and feather borderings are decidedly the
moat fashionable trimmings for present season wear
Rosettes, fringes, and " pomponette " bands of the
former are made in several new patterns, and the
latter can now be obtained in all shades of colour to
match costumes, and in every width, frown the soft and
luxurious linir g to a sortie de bat, to the narrow bands
of tinted fluff (or down), which produce a most charm-
ing effect when need sts trimmings for ball gowns ot
gauze or figured net. A new make of fringe, called
the "leech " pattern, has tails of chenille, pointed at
both ends, arranged over a second fringe of crimped
silk threads; the chenille is sometimes tipped with
glittering beside of coloured jet, or pearls, should the
fringe be white,

HINTS FOR THE HOUSEHOLD.
Beefsteak Pie.—(An American recipe)—Out the bee;
in slices, and slice a little raw barn, put both in a
frying-pan, with some butter and mall quantity
chopped onioas ; let them simmer together &short time
on the fire or in the oven ; add &little flour and enough
stock to make muse; salt, pepper; add also a few
sliced potatoes, and 000 k together for about twenty
minutes; put this into a ple•dieh, with a few shoes of
hard boiled eggs on the top, and cover with a layer of
common paste. Thai from fifteen to twenty minutes
in a well heated oven.
Mixed Pickle—(Oanadian Raoipe).—Two quarts of
cuctunhere sliced, one quart of small onions, two small
cauliflowers picked to pieces; put a teacupful of salt
into a gallon of water, lay the the vegetables in this
and let them stand a night; in the morning put them
on the fire and let them get very hot, but not boiling,
then drain off the water and let them cool. Take two
quarts of vinegar veld put to it loz. each of curry
powder, turmeric, and ground ginger, 20z. of mustard,
one teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, three tablespoon-
fuls of salad Gil; mix all together, let it some to the
boil, and pour over the vegetables.
Pork and Telotable Pie—Peel and slice thin six
gool-sited potatee and one onion, one-half petted
sweet salt pork cat in thin elites, and fry brown; eee
pound of beef or veal eat thin and also fried rare in
pork drippings. Make a good crust as for biscuit, net
too risk, line your pan around tee sides only, line the'
bnttont with the pork, then a layer of meat, potatoes,
and onions; season with pepper and salt to taste, and
cover with a thin layer of crust ; repeat until the
vegetables and meat are need up, then pour in suf.
tioient hot water to cover, finish with a crust. Bake
one hour in a moderate oven.
Taloa Blanc-onange.—Twe cups of sweet cream, ens-
ball mine* gelatine, soaked in a very little cold water
one hear; one.half cup white powdered sugar, one
teaspoonful extract of bitter almonds. Heat the weals
to Wolin, stir in the gelatins and mar, and as seen
as they are dissolved take from the fire, boat ten
minutes until very Heat, favour by degrees, mixing it
well. Put into moulds wet with clear water.
Oat Cakes.—A correspondent of a contemporary
give the following :—lu making these it is best only
to mix sufficient oatmeal and water for making
them one at a time, as the paste so quickly dries
Moisten a couple of tablespoonfuls of oatmeal, in
which has been mixed a pinch of salt, with a little
cold water to the consistency of dough, knead it a
little, and roll it out es thin as poseible on a psete-boatd,
el. tinkling meal plentifully above and below it. At onc,
remove it with a slice to the bekeAtune, which should
be already heated, and over a clear tire b.ke it m
both sides, turning it with a slice carefully to prevent
it from crackb g. When first done they are quite soft,
but as each is baked it ehould be removed to a dist,
etandir.g in front ..f the fire, where it *ill quickly be-
come hard and crier,

Surgeon-Major R. Jackson, whose death from
blood pohmning, occasioned by the stings of hornets,
is reported in the Indian papers, is itab-d to have
been stung in no fewer than two luindr.d pace. Mr.
J4ckson, whe heb n'teri to the Paaoilii dept, wet,
oot tiger hunting near Singhanhaina, when, in
-
:Advertently meddling with a neat of these creatures
he was scd3enly attacked by a swam, with the result
hed.
S fficiunt funds having been secivecl, it has been
decided to open an hosp:tal in Bombay for women and
child, en, under the guidance of lady practitioners
A telegram fr im Cr cow says the', the convicts in
the prison at Wisnicze broke into open revolt, and.
having overpowered the warders, set themselves at
liberty. A 'aro force of police and a company of
snldiers;were summoned, and within a short time re-
ceptor& the whole of the runaways, some of whom
, offered re4etance,',und were woundde in the struggle.