The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1885-02-14 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS

Tim Paris correspondent of the Queen communicates
the following items of French fashions: The Paris
season is at last becoming gay, and the Faubourg St.
Germain Salons are being opened, although slowly,
for some brilliant receptions. The prettiest fancy
ball I have attended for some time was one given by
the Baroness de la Gatinerie, and the following cos-
tumes were capital: The Comtesse de TrOveret, as a
Louis XV. Marquise, in white satin, with garlands of
exquisite flowers and satin bows. Mme. de Ferry as
a Neapolitan Fishwuman, in a striped red and blue
short skirt, red stockings; hair in a long red net, and
over a red fisher's cap. Mme. D'Astier was a Breton
Bride, her husband was the bridegroom, and M. de
Diesbach was the best man. These costumes were
admirably exact. Mlle. de Charreyron, the General's
daughter, appeared as an elegant Columbine in
white satin and a tricorn hat. Mlle. Blan-
chart was a Witch, in red satin draped with
a green serpent; stars in her hair. Mlle. de Ste.
Farre was an Alsatian, with large black bow in the
hair, and the characteristic cap on the chignon. Mlle.
Collard, as Spring, was in white tulle covered with
garlands of rosebuds and flowers, even to the sash.
Mlle. de In Gatinerie appeared in two costumes—at
first as a Gardeuse of turkeys, the second as a Russian
Peasant Girl, wearing the national coronet-shaped
headdress worked in pearls; her hair, plaited with
ribbons, fell at her back; she carried a small musical
instrument, and at intervals sung Russians airs;
accompanying herself. Her voice is phenomenal, and
her songs proved an immense attraction.

VICOMTESSE DE BEAUMONT gave a successful ball last
week, and some of the toilettes were good examples of
the style that now obtains. For instance, Mme. de
Treveret, who is an aiyante, wore a short white satin
dress fitting at the sides like a sheath; the tulle
tablier was worked in clear crystal beads, not opaque
jet ones as formerly; the low bodice had a plastron
of the same; a very deep ruche edged the skirt, while
the pouf and draperies at the back formed a large
butterfly bow of white satin. Round her throat white
z,atin ribbon was tied closely, and from it was sus-
pended an immense polished but uncut garnet; a tuft
of white lilac at the top of her head, a branch falling;
at the side; long pale Suede gloves reaching consider-
ably above the elbow, openwork cream silk stockings,
and white satin shoes embroidered in the same beads
as the dress. This is essentially a dancing toilette.
Mme. d'Amilly wore a white mousseline de
hiine dress, with four wide bands of red velvet
rounil it; low-pointed bodice trimmed to match, with
folds of red tulle next the skin; a red feather aigrette
in the hair. Mlle. de Ste. Fare was in pink tulle
studded with pink chenille spots, and made with
several skirts one above the other, very cloudlike in
effect; pretty pink flowers on the left shoulder and in
the hair. Mlles. de Bellune were in white gauze with
wl.ite sashes; white lilac in their hair. Mlle. Scylla
wore a low pink satin bodice with round skirt of pink
tulle composed of several deep flounces, the lowest
one being white tulle starred with silver. Princess
Scylla was in an exquisite pink satin dress trimmed
with pink blonde; her powdered hair was ornamented
with black feathers. Dime. de Las Marismas (nee
Aguado) was in low white satin, with pouf of red
feathers on the bodice and in the hair.

Tun Duchesse de Bellune's last Me was quite
original. There were charades and tableaux vivants
as well as dancing. The young ladies were invited to
come en tete colffee, which meant either in a cap or
same national headdress. Mlle. de la Gatinerie was
seated in the gallery of the ball-room and sang a
Spanish serenade, accompanying herself on a
mandolin. At midnight supper was served, and most
curious was the effect of all these young heads
dressed up in a hundred different ways. The Mlles.
de Collard, in white muslin frocks, with short-waisted
bodices and sashes, wore Kate Greenaway bonnets of
ruched muslin. Mlle. de Larmina in pink voile skirt
and scarlet satin bodice, sported a little cap made of
a red foulard handkerchief, tied coquettishly on her
brown hair. Mlles. Duranty in simple blue voile
frocks, wore baby caps with quilled borders. Mlle. de
Bellune wore white muslin with red silk in the hem;
red Greek jacket, embroidered in pearls ; a small red
cap to match at the side of her head. Her sister, as
a Spanish girl, wore a black lace skirt over red silk; a
mantille over a very high comb, a tuft of red flowers
(pomegranate) at the side. Some girls had large
muslin caps with cherries and blue ribbons in front,
others dainty little lace caps with butterflies alighting
thereon. Mlle. de la Gatinerie's toilette, however, was
the most original, being copied from an old Norman
picture. The skirt was pale brown lace; the red
velvet bodice, opening in a point back and front, was
edged with old guipure, long velvet cords falling on
the skirt. The superb headdress was a Cauchois cap
in real old grey lace; the wings were of silver lace;
the long pins that fastened it had Alencon diamond
heads set in silver, and were of artistic and curious
old workmanship; the necklet corresponding was
clasped with a dove.

THE ladies present also wore some notable toilettes.
Princess Scylla, in a Louis XT. toilette—black satin
train-skirt, ruched heavily at the edge with lace, low
coat bodice, the tails ornamented with old paste
buttons, old Brussels lace draped round the shoulders
and fastened on the left side with divers precious
stones in antique setting, the necklace matching; the
narrow sleeves reached to the elboNss where they ter-
minated with Brussels lace ruffles. Mme. de
Treveret was in pink tulle, embroidered in white, and
mounted over pale pink silk; ruby velvet bodice, cut
at the top both back and front in a point, with folds
of the same tulle draped round it; ruby marabouts in
the hair. Comtesse de la Chapelle was in a striped
white moire and satin bodice and paniers, the skirt
being lace and satin; Mechlin lace formed the trim-
ming to the bodice, which was fastened with a lion's
head and long mane, all in diamonds.

TUB last soirée given by the Mirlitons, at their club
in the Place Vendome, was as usual a success. The
salon is not large; there is either first-rate comedy or
a theatrical representation of some sort given, and the
programmes are designed by members of the club,
who also assist in the acting. The invitations are
much sought after, as the Elite of Paris congregate
here, and the audience is considered tres pschutt.

EVERYONE invited came early, for there are no
reserved seats; the first corners have the right to the
best places. The pieces given were" Monsieur va an
Cercle," a comedy in one act, by Serpette, a member
of the club, and " C'est pour ce soir," a charming play
by Busnach. Among the audience I noted Mme. de
Pourtales, in pale blue gros grain draped with white
lace, real flowers in her hair, with roses and forget-
me-nots; V icomtesse de Meffray, in black
Chantilly lace, draped with jet pampilles and agrafes,
tea roses in her hair and on the bodice; the Mar-
quise de Massa, also in black lace, but over ponceau
satin ; the Comtesse de Nancy, in jonquil-yellow
brocade, with magnificent diamonds; Mine. Henri
Berel, in white satin, made with babe bodice and box-
plaited skirt, and opening over a lace tablier em-
broidered in gold, gold aigrette in her black hair;
Mine. Gautereau, in white brocade worked in gold;
Mme. Porges, in white Venetian blonde, sparkling
with white jet, white feathers in the air, and a pink
gauze fold on the bodice.
TuEnt was some good skating last week in the
Bois; but principally among English and American
visitors. The costumes worn were cloth and fur, and
some for a Parisian were Very novel. There was one
in red velvet, trimmed with Astrakan, and another in
brown velvet and silver fox, extremely attractive.
The hat, muff, and even gaiters all matched.
THE toilettes worn by Mine. Judie in the new piece
" Elle and Lui," now played at the Palais Royal, are
very successful. The first Mme. Judie wears is of
wool and silk, blue shot with green, the skirt almost
covered with woollen guipure worked in all the colours
to be found in Indian cashmere. The mantle is in
the new woollen called "voile de misaine," the colour
pale Russia leather. The felt bonnet matches the
mantle, and is trimmed with velvet and a bird, the
feathers just tipped with gold. The second toilet is
bronze velvet, with tablier of a material called "toil.
d'araignee," a sort of multi-coloured lace, on which
roses in relief are appliqué with rich effect. The
brown velvet bonnet, with pointed brim of mufti-
coloured beads, is trimmed with toile d'araignee, and
has an Impeyan pheasant aigrette at the side. By
the way, many of the new demi-saison hats are
trimmed with very wide gauze ribbons striped with
thin silk, a fashion of fifty years ago revived.

Lc "Denise," the piece by M. Alexandre Dumas,
now being played at the Theatre Francais, the cos-
tumes are extremely simple. Mme. Granger wears a
brown woollen costume, made with a long paletot,
having a silk front; and braided with three rows of
what is known as the "flourish" design. Mlle.
Fremaux's dress is of bengaline, the colour of ripe
corn and golden brown plush; the skirt is edged with
a narrow plaiting of cerise silk; the bodice is made
with a plush plastron. Mlle. Amel's visiting dress is
myrtle-green velvet with brocaded panels.