The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1885-07-04 00:00:00

THE STOURBRIDGE OBSERVER.

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

LADY Jona MANNERS has the followirg article on
dress in the Queen this week It may be thought that
so much has been written on the subject of dress that,
nothing remains to be said; but, while it is impossi-
ble to enter into details applicable to individual cases,
there are general principles that may with advantage
be remembered by all women. Suitability of drees to
the age and position of the wearer should be studied.
Without incurring great expense, it is now possible to
be well dressed in a manner appropriate to the various
seasons of the year. The following observations are
not intended for those ladies whose positions justify
their 'acting up to Shakespeare's advice: "Costly thy
habit as thy purse can buy, but not expressed in fancy;
rich not gaudy." They are intended more for the
vast niajorit:,- of women who must study econoniy.
It is remarkable how many excellent and useful
fabrics may be had adapted for all seasons at a low
price. Homespuns, serges, cashmeres, merinos, for
winter; for summer, nun's cloth, zephyr cloth, canvas,
a great variety of linens, rauslins, and cottons. For
about thirty-five shillings, material 3 for very durable
and neat morning winter gowns may be had; and for
summer, charming dresses can be chosen, oven at the
best shops, for about one pound. I feel sure I hear
some young ladies exclaim, "Yes, but the making is
what exhausts our slender purses, and when we want
our gowns made dressmakers are all so busy." Cer-
tainly; but there are dressmakers who gladly make
simple dresses for ten shillings and sixpence; and by
ordering gowns a little before the rush takes place at
the beginning of each of the four seasons of the year,
much agitation would be avoided.

IT is better for those who are not rich to buy two
fresh inexpensive dresses without trimmings than one
a good deal trimmed, which must be worn when the
adornments assume a shabby appearance. A very
simple dark gown may look charming by the addition
of a white muslin fichu, like those we see in old
pictures. Lace is more economical, as it retains its
freshness longer, and it must be recollected that
unless lace, muslin, or ribbons are perfectly fresh,
they disfigure instead of adorning. Real old lace,
however, is sometimes preferred with a yellow tinge;
but even old lace, if very often worn, becomes dirty,
and should be entrusted to some experienced hands
to be restored.

IN theory, muslin dresses would seem economical,
but experience proves that it is not so—they crumble
easily; gauze, grenadine, Madras muslin, very fine
nun's cloth, cost more but are much more durable.
It is amusing in many parts of the Continent to
observe on Sunday morning white dresses just washed
carried through the streets hung on poles to the
expectant wearers. French ladies make great use of
foulard for travelling; it is extremely light, and if
made up on a silk foundation, does not hang in tho
limp manner that many cool materials do. Surah
silk makes charming summer gowns. Some young
ladies who go out a good deal buy from the mann--
facturers pieces of net, and have their ball gowns
almost every time they are worn renewed; but this
implies having a very good maid, nor is it always
possible for the best of maids to make a bail dreas if
staying on a visit. Mechlin net is the softest.

TAILOR-MADE gowns are very neat, but they are
expensive, and usually heavier than those made by
dressmakers. As I have touched on the question of
weight, I would entreat young ladies to spare them-
selves carrying about more weight than is necessary.
Some people appear to think that weight and warnit h
mean the same, but this is not the case; the softest
materials are often the warmest. The Indian shawls.
formerly so much treasured, were so light and soft
that they would compress into very small space, but
they were exceedingly warm. Italian maestri will
not allow their pupils to wear anything round their
throats; they say it renders the throat delicate. I
think, however, a lace or silk necktie should be worn,
as a sunburnt throat is not becoming. The young
ladies of the present day have great advantages over
those of about thirty years ago. Their neat short
walking costumes, their hats which protect their eyes,
their sensible jackets, form a contrast to the long
gowns, which required constant effort to keep them
from trailing in t'sle mud; and the bonnets, which
had a horrid trick c,f retiring to the back of the head.
The gowns used, indeed, sometimes to be looped up
by an elaborate syitem of cordage, which generally
gave way at a crit,cal moment. ',recollect the first
appearance of a sl,ort scarlet petticoat, worn over a
large crinoline; a f6stooned black skirt was worn over
it; aittle wide-ay.stke hat completed the costume'.
The wearer was muoh criticised, but her example was
SOCAI followed. Fokenerly at balls and evening parties
people were expecto.l to appear in low gowns, whereas
no.* young ladie c..i.n.do in that respect 'exactly as
they like. This is a great convenience, as IV the addi-
tion of a little lace tts6 bodice of a ball gown can be
worn with propriety 4 a small dinner party. Those
who give balls must rejoice that short dresses are
worn, as trains take up space. In Vienna an intima-
tion is now unusually put on cards of invitation to
balls that it is hoped short gowns will be worn. It is
rather embarrassing for a man when a lady's,trair
twists round his ankl.is, and if short dresses were
generally worn at balls we should see fewer streamers
of tulle and ribbon straxing the floors.

IT is quite refreshing to see a lady whose dress is
always remarkable for r4Patness and appropriateness
to the occasion. She nesd never fear that advancing,
years will steal away the peculiar charm of her ap-
pearance, for her innate s,lsse of order and of what is
becoming will always load her to choose dress suited
to her age. I have had the privilege of knowing a.
lady who, whenever I saw her—whether at the break-
fast table, walking in Lonam, or battling on the hills
with storms of rain or in blaming sunshine, whether
travelling, or in a ballroom, always seemed to be
wearing a dress perfect in every detail, beautifully
put on, and, above all, exactly suited to the occasion.
In the country in winter her neat felt hat, her dark
walking dress looked sensiblo and comfortable, in
summer her gown always made one cool to look at.
Her jewels were always brilliam, owing to the care
she herself bestowed on them. No band but her own
ever touched the hair which was always ,arranged
exactly to suit the shape of her b4autiful head, a few
ivy leaves, or scarlet flowers, she would arrange so
that they made the loveliest chs,plot. Perhaps it will
be said that very great expense loat have been in-
curred to bring about this result, s 4, charming to all
who saw this lady. By no means. Her own taste
directed an excellent maid, her 09 n judgment was
exercised in her purchases, and, thmgh on occasions
when a splendid gown was befitting, no one appeared
more richly dressed, the expenditure, taking one year
with another, was far less than ttat incurred by
many women proverbially dowdy. Or.e result of the
wise discrimination she bestowed on the choice of her
dress, was tat she ran far less risk of catching cold
than people who did not suit their drew to the varia-
tions of our climate. No one ever saw her weighed
down by a heavy gown, or labouring along under
masses of furs; nor did it fall to the lot of
her maid to have to remove ser4ral inches
of incrusted mud or powdery dust from her
walking dresses; her boots and gloves rare always
perfect. In this lady's case, her dress 'pas the out-
ward expression of a refined mind, and I aannot help
thinking that often a good taste in apparel baokens a
mind in which the sense of harmony, order, and a due
proportion of things prevails. Efforts to asast nature
by adding artificial bloom, or changing the natural
colour of the hair, give a hard, fixed expression. I
have read that each age has its own peculiar beauty.
Who can look more picturescitte than a lac3y whose
beautiful silver hair is partly covered with delicate
lace, over whose shoulders a dainty muslin kerchief
is arranged, and whose dress of rich dark material
falls in graceful folds. A study of old pieta) es is a
good guide for those who wish to choose becoming
dress. In many of Vandyck's we see these snowy
kerchiefs folded over the shoulders, adding sohness
and grace. On tho choice of becoming colours much
of the charm of dress depends. Mr. Millais considers
black, white, and crimson are most universally becom-
ing; he also likes a golden shade of yellow. In old
portraits, silver-grey satin was much employed, and
frequently historical pearl headdresses were worn with
these gowns of silvery sheen. Vandyck painted blazk
velvet and golden-brown, and hid loved to draw lace
—delicate Flemish lace and Venetian point. The
dress of his stately ladies and nobles was suited to
their position. Sir Peter Lely's ladies are dressed, ar
rather undressed, in a manner suggestive of some de-
parture from the dignity which characterised Van-
ciyck's portraits. In Hogarth's wonderful pictures we
see the untidy, loose costumes all too significant of th-3
laxity of the wearers' principles. Sir Joshua Reynolds's
lovely and distinguished women are usually in white
draperies; blue sashes were frequently introduced into
his paintings, and large straw hats. Romney painted in
the same style. Perhaps there is no occasion on
which it is more difficult to choose a dress than for
sitting for one's portrait, fashion changes so rapidly.
But if the old pictures are studied some adaptations
may be thought of. Black or white lace fichus may
be worn over the shoulders, and draperies so arranged
that they shall not look ridiculous in a few years.

2nn choice of travelling costumes also demands
much consideration. In warm weather it is to be
feared that the sufferings of many Englishwomen who
travel abroad must be severe. In July or August sub-
stantial serge or homespun gowns are unsuitable in
broiling sun; very thin gowns, on the other hand,
crumple. It should be recollected that warm cool
dresses and medium are required on the Continent,
especially at German baths. The difficulty of getting
dresses made at most of these health resorts is great.
I have known ladies who, not having provided them-
selves with sufficient dresses, say for very hot or very
rainy weather, have bought materials suitable, and
confidingly given them to be made up to foreign
dressmakers, who have not received them for three
weeks, perhaps the day before their departure. I re-
memember once spending six weeks at a German
bath; during four of these weeks it rained almost
daily. Those ladies who had provided themselves
with two waterproofs, one tolerably thick, and one
thin, were regarded with envy by their less far-seeing
companions, for at a German bath those going through
the cure have to walk in rainy as well as in fine
weather. It is well to remember that thunderstorms
occur more frequently in the south than i= England,
and it is well to be provided with proteaion against
them.