The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1884-04-19 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

THE continued prevalence of ungenial east winds has
somewhat retaried the display of costumes of light
fabrics such as are usually looked for at the middle of
April. The London modistes, however, are far from
being unemployed; and a writer in the Queen, in an
article on "Dress at the Leading Dressmakers','
describes the productions of some of the foremost
houses. We make the following extracts: "Two
morning gowns illustrate useful everyday dresses.
Skirt of Sicilienne, of a dark terracotta tone, over it
a tunic of fawn cashmere, covered with a small red
brocade in terry; the back of this tunic was box-
plaited, and no under skirt was visible; in front it was
simply draped on one side. Pointed bodice of the
cashmere. A. smoke-coloured silk skirt, over it a dark
blue cashmere, with a brocade in red terry; an in-
visible plaiting of red at the hem, the stuff plainly
draped over the silk, which was arranged in broad
plaits where the drapery allowed it to be seen, but not
all round. The interminable kiltings and box-plait-
ings round the skirts are giving place to greater sim-
plicity. For a visiting day dress, a bolder mixture of
colouring. Petticoat of buttercup-toned corded silk,
over it a dark green peacock cashmere, with a cross-
stitch brocade in the buttercup colour; no trimmm
but long looped satin bows.

A FEW evening dresses. A peach-coloured tulle
made in little plaits, and a drapery of tulle at the
back; over it a short tunic of peach satin, falling in a
pouf only half a yard deep at the back; below this, in
front, a deep garniture of shaded violets, from the
peach tone to the darkest tone of violet, forming a
point in the centre. White poult de soie silks are
now the best fashion, the front quite plain, but cut
in tiny battlements at the edge, with tufts of shaded
chenille between each, and so arranged as to form
slight paniers at the waist, falling at the back; a long
plain train of pistacchio-coloured velvet—an ad-
mirable contrast to the white; a white silk butterfly
bow of large dimensions at the back of the waist.
These butterfly bows and the front breadths draped
at the waist are notable features in the best dresses
bodice with long, sharp points, and ruffled at the
back. Most dinner gowns have the backs arranged
as trains; and in the day dresses the back drapery
reaches to the hem.

A CREAN embroidered crape is liberally trimmed
with Valenciennes, indescribably draped, but so
gathered beneath that the fulness falls to the hem.
Low down on the skirt are largerosettes of white satin
ribbon; it is caught up on the hips en panier. The
bodice is bedizened with crystals; the sleeve ends
above the elbow, a transparent puff covering the elbow
—a new style of sleeve. On many ball gowns there
are round bunches of some simple flower, fastening
down the drapery in many places. Red tulle is still
most fashionable. The novelty is the front breadth
of the richest cut velvet of the same shade—an un-
common combination with tulle. Large sprays of red
geranium, with variegated leaves, complete this
dress.

THE same writer, adverting to the subject of
millinery, says: A black straw bonnet, covered all
over with gold net, so transparent that you can see
the straw beneath. On the top a cream net hand-
kerchief, lace-edged, and wrought in gold, caught
together with very long gold-headed pins. There is
one prevailing shape in bonnets, small and close,
giving ample room for the hair to be dressed high,
the brim coming flat on the head, and generally
bordered with beads or loops of gold braid, but with
very large upstanding tufts or bouquets on the top,
and two small-headed gold pins with gold or onyx
heads. The Marie Stuart shape is now made with
the point to come slightly on one side. Straws are worn.
A Tuscan was composed, not of plaited straw, but
fine straw cords radiating from the centre of the
crown, and trimmed with dark green velvet; a spray
of green bearded wheat on the top—bearded wheat is
one of the best worn garnitures. Muslin bonnets are
embroidered in gold. A transparent black lace
bonnet was an exception to the prevailing shape; it
had a square crown, lined with gold cloth, a huge
cluster of daffodils outside. A soft red straw was so
supple, that the straw itself was caught up into plaits
at the back and sides. It was lined with brown, and
had a bouquet of large Marguerites, marigolds, and
yellow heath. These mixed bouquets are much worn.
Both hats and bonnets are covered with silk em-
broidered crape.

--
Ix the same article the following articles of the
newest fashion are enumerated: Bright red parasols,
or rather en-tout-cas, with carved brown bone handles,
long and flat. Shaded velvet tulips of several tones,
with leaves, carried down the side of a ball gown.
Ostrich feather fans in the form of an arch, with a
plume of ostrich and osprey at the side. Bridesmaids
fans in the shape of a half-open one, with handle, and
covered with flowers. Palm-shaped fans covered with
lace, intermixed with flowers, to match those on the
dress. Handkerchiefs with narrow borders, each side
of alternative colours, grey and blue, brown and pink.
The Muscovite shoe, with one strap, buckled and but-
tonoa rivAr flirt inctop, lined with Suede kid, sewn in
white, having holes punctured round the root. A most
serviceable glove, the Castor Suede, much stronger
than ordinary Suede, and made with many buttons.
Silk stockings, with real lace insertion in three rows
covering the front of the foot.

Is a further. article on "Spring Novelties," the
Queen says: Pretty aprons, for morning wear, are of
muslin and coloure ' embroidery, effectively trimmed
with Russian lace, the muslin covered with tiny spots
of red and blue, or shades of brown on a white or
ecru ground. One of muslin of the latter tint was
formed of narrow kilts, with one box-plait, arranged
on the right side, on which was a pocket adorned with
ribbon bows. The kilts were tucked at the bottom,
and the apron was surrounded with a frill of
muslin, cut in half circles and worked with
parti-coloured cotton. In every scollop was a
round of blue batiste, and on each was
depicted a rural scene, a cottage—a bridge, with trees
and flowers outlined in scarlet thread. At the neck
was a round collar of twisted red and blue ribbon,
and from thence fell a gathered blouse of muslin,
turned under, and confined by a band, spreading again
as a folded loop, and hanging below the waist; the
bib of this novel apron was also trimmed with
embroidery, and it was fastened far back on the
shoulders by butterfly bows of ribbon. Other aprons
with
red
blueisho silk,pen-w he open-worked
e d
centresembroidery,being
- wflneerelytrm
worked
with o d
also covered with small sprays of conventional orna-
ments treated with coloured silks.

BLACK lace, always fashionable, and more so now
than ever, enters largely into the composition of all
mantles prepared for early spring and capes for
summer wear. A striking novelty is the "epaulette"
jacket, made of black silk canvas embroidered with
beads, and having all the effect of the Russian cross-
stitch in its close-set, regular pattern. It is close-
fitting, and beautifully cut, and the front has tabs at
the edge, bordered with tassels of jet. Across the
chest is folded a fichu of lace, gathered at the waist,
and continued over the hips in gracefully festooned
paniers. The ends are joined in the centre of the
back, where they spread in large and fan-shaped
poufs. Covering the shoulders, and reaching the
elbow, are handsome epaulettes of jet, finished with
fringes of " facetted " beads in loops of different
lengths. A cape of black Mirecourt lace, cut away
from the neck in a pretty curve to the elbows, had the
pattern outlined in gold thread, and bordered with a
netting and fringe of fine chenille, spotted with gold
to match. A velvet " Guards' " collar surrounded the
neck, with upstanding frill of lace; and in front were
stole ends of velvet, reaching below the waist, and
finished with chenille fringe.

THE Paris correspondent of the same jourfial says
that a few evening parties have taken place lately.
At the Conatesse Aimery de T,arochefoucauld's last
reunion the Duchesse de Mouehy was present in a
white gauze dress studded with silver spots; low
bodice draped with white satin; a diamond necklet
that formed a grecque between two rivieres, and
filled the throat as closely as a band of velvet; the
comb was ornamented with a smaller grecque ; a
single large diamond at each ear. The Comtesse de
Pourtales who was much complimented on the
marriage of her son with Mlle. Cottier, wore
a velvet dress with low bodice, trimmed in the
new style, which is much in vogue; it is
a light gauze scarf that crosses the chest like an order,
and is fastened on the right shoulder with a large
diamond flower. The ComtesSe Aimery wore blue
tulle as light as mist, and the scarf on her bodice
crossed the back, being secured by two diamond
butterflies; white roses without foliage draped the
tulle of the skirt, and also composed the head-dress.
The Princess de la Tour d'Auvergne was in pink
satin, trimmed with garnet velvet, which was em-
broidered in butterflies'of all colours. The Comtesse
de Puysegur wore black satin, covered with Chantilly
lace; and her sortie de bal was a magnificent mantle
as long as the dress, in white Genoa velvet, with a
large Medecis collar forming a background to her
head.

THERE is much novelty in the trimmings for both
dresses and mantles, especially in the Pompadour
passementeries that have raised figures and are made
of beads of one colour. The designs are fruit, such
as cherries, currants, plums, &c., amid leaves of
beads. The smaller fruits are eopied in full size, but
pears ad the larger fruits are shown only in half, as
if cut in two. Such gimps are exceedingly effective
at the side of skirts and as tabliers for dresses. There
are passementeries made entirely of steel, which are
glittering and showy, and others in which gilt and. jet
are intermixed with steel. Solid jet rings three
inches in diameter, for ornamenting black costumes,
are novel; and so are long palm leaves of fine jet,
with fringe attached, for the same purpose.

"After all," said the baker, as he walked home
from an astronomical lecure, "after all, the world is
only a big turnover."
"How do you manage him?" This is a question •
that we heard asked of one of the "dearest and best"
wives, who was conspicuously happy in her domestic
relations. "Ah !" she said, with a merry twinkle in
her soft eyes, "the best way to ;.nanage a husband is
not to manage him."