The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1885-09-12 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

A Ngiv invention intlre manufacture of velveteet,ta
'which the broche pattern is aetuallywoven in thecloth,
instead of being merely embossed upon the surface,
will, .says the fashiln writer in the Lady'sPictoral, be
'generally welcomed with delight, as a material of
which we have fer a long time felt the want. Every-
one must have .suffered more or less from the disap-
painting wear Kef ordinary stamped velveteen, in which
the broche pattern, being merely embossed upon the
surface, succumbs at once to the influence of rain,
moisture, or friction, sinks into the foundation of the
material, and after a few weeks' wear inevitably pre-
sents a wretchedly dilapidated and dingy appearance.
This can never be the case with the now damassa
velveteen, which is so manufactured as to render this
undesirable state of things entirely impossible. The
patterns are so thoroughly woven throughthematerial
that neither heat, rain, nor rough wear can possibly
affect it. and it is, theref9re, exceedingly durable
while it is of a delicately soft and silkyistexture.

I FIND, continues the same writer, the damasse vel.
wteen is made in some of the prettiest of the new
Paris designs, both floral and geometrical, and dyed
in a groat variety of beautiful colours. Of the new
shades, one of the most successful is undoubtedly a
deep grate, which would make up admirably for an
autumn gown with a soft Kyrie cloth of the same
rich colour. Among other pretty tints in which the
damasse velveteen may be procured, I must mention
the new rich shade of prune colour, now so much
worn in Paris, and a beautiful tint of wall-flower
brown, in which the floral design is remarkably effec-
tive. Other pretty shades ars to be had in both
purple and indigo, soft sil7ery grey, olive and myrtle
green.

THESD materials would make no into very smart
suits for little boys, to be worn, or instance, with
deep Vand, ke collars of old lace; and an the designs
may be had in two sizes, the smaller patterns will be
found most suitable for children's wear. They will
also be simply invaluable for fancy costumes where
any great quantity of material is required, as they
have all the rich appearance of a really handsome
broch6 silk velvet, while they cost little more that a
plain velveteen of the same quality.

THE requirements orhilfidern fashion are much that
a material of this kind is an actual necessity in the
making up of autumn and winter gowns, and this new
velveteen will be found of the greatest service as well
in the making of side panels for skirts as for the
now almost universal vest worn under the loose-
fronted open jackets of the present season. For short
tight-fitting outdoor coats and for entire bodices thil
material will also be very useful. I can imagine a
a very pretty and economical gown made in a fine
myrtle green etamine serge, with a long wide panel
of this damasse velveteen, in the same shade of colour,
on the right side of the skirt, full draperies of the
serge being carried down to a point on the right side
and drawn up high on the left, falling in full graceful
folds at the back-, caught up here and there, over a
deep pleating of the damasse. The bodice should be
made with a Spanish jacket of serge, opening over a
vest of velveteen, the deep cuffs and high military
collar being also made in the cluntasse.

THE materials and facons, says Le Follet, for late
summer and autumn wear are admirably adapted to
each other; the tight-fitting jacket, closed, or open
over a waistcoat, and the draped over-skirts on
simply trimmed plain skirte, are exactly suitable for
the serges, cloths, plain and fancy woollens, of which
they are composed. Braids of all widths and largo
buttons are used for these dresses, if for quiet simple
dress; some have velveteen waistcoats, and a band of
the same showing from under the edge of the skirt,
which greatly adds to their effect. Stripes, plain or
fancy, are most fashionably worn in all kinds of ma-
ter4Als—one of the newest woollens being called
" pion," as the stripes appear like embroidered
braids or bands—i.e., galons.

SILKS and fine woollens, with velvet stripes and
figures, or lines and spots of plush, make up very
elegantly in combination with silken fabrics, velvet,
and velveteen. Astracan stripes on plain-coloured
woollens are quite novel, and very effective. They
are generally accompanied by a Figaro veste of
Astracan. It is rarely the material is used for the
bodice, which should be of plain woollen the same
colour. Dresses intended entirely for walking wear
are shorter than those worn in the house; these just
clear the ground, while the walking dresses reach to
the instep cnly.

Tim, interesting journal for gentlewomen, The
Lady, now some seven months' old, seems to have
fairly established itself as a welcome weekly among
the fair sex of society. In the current issue we are
told truthfully that it does not matter what the new
fabric of the present season may be, it is always
striped, and the changes are from broad to narrow,
from light to dark, and from plain to changdint. One
of our best London houses is showing a striped stuff,
called Pembroke, with plain to match it. The variety
is principally in the colours; brown ground with a
very pale green stripe, blue ground with green and
brown stripes, and so forth.
,
ANOTHER fabric is called Kerabau, and is of course
plain and raye in several colours; and some of ti
stripes are of distinctly Oriental yet subtly blended
tints. The ribbons also are new and good; gauze
ones with three circles intertwined in several colours,
silk canvas ribbons dotted over with embroidered
flowers, and many. other novelties. The sashes are
very striking. Some are of canvas with Eastern-
looking stripes, and some soft plain and striped coral's
three and a-half yards lung are very charming.

THE newest notion in ladies' handkerchiefs is to
have a butterfly embroidered in ingrain colours in
one corner, which naturally is the corner intended to
be visible When the dainty bit of cambric is tucked
into the front of the dress. Not satisfied with making
the butterfly as pretty as possible in flat embroidery,
two dainty little wings are firmly button-holed on so
as to give it the appearance of flying. *

SOME charming new scent-bottles are in the form
of plovers' and pheasants' eggs, with silver tops. The
resemblance is perfect, and they are just large enough
to be held in the hand, or may without inconvenience
be put in the pocket, always provided that you do not
sit down on that pocket—a catastrophe rather diffi-
cult 4o avoid when it is placed so far back as is usual
with the present style of costume.

Pon short journeys in hot weather the tussore dust-
cloaks are admirably adapted. When rolled up they
take up very little space, and are infinitesimally light,
while at the same time they effectually protect the
dress from the dust which is so copious an adjunct of
railway travelling. This dust cannot adhere to the
tussore, and a recent addition to its good qualities, in
the shape of waterproofing it, will probably make it
in greater demand than it has ever been before for
dust-cloaks. The dust-cloak has been an invaluable
adjunct of the wardrobe this season, and more
especially when it has been of that shape which
buttons down closely over the dress beneath, and ex-
tending to the very rim of its hem. Indian shawls
make excellent dust-cloaks, when they are of the
Rampoor Chuddah kind. There is a pale shade of
grey in these which shows absolutely no trace of dust,
and is yet of sufficient substance to keep it from the
dress. Next to this the soft washing silks are the best
material for adapting to this useful purpose, and in
travelling they are especially useful, sin,T they do not
crush, no matter how tightly they may be packed.

A CORIZESPONDENT in Paris writes: High black lace
or jetted net bodices, with low linings, have an
economic raison, d'etre ; they render the black dress
more valuable than it would otherwise be by fitting it
for a number of dressy occasions. Every woman
who has had to do battle with expenses is aware of
the serviceableness of black, and anything that will
render it less solemn and more attractive is accept-
abl-. True, a black dress always costs a good deal of
money, and sometimes it is better economy to trans-
form coloured gowns that have gone out of fashion
than to buy a fresh one, even though it be black.

HERE a bit of advice will not be out of place.
When a dress is put aside it is very important that
the material should be unripped, that it may have
time to rid itself of its old folds before being sub-
mitted to the process of transformation. Tunics
composed of an apron draped symmetrically and of
one or a couple of tucked-up breadths at the back
being no longer fashionable, should be treated in this
way without delay, and, as the gardeners say, the soil
prepared for fresh crops. The front and back
breadths sewn together will furnish sufficient material
for a very favourite style of tunic. It is open on the
left side and pleated in three flat kiltings on either
side of the opening, mounted in a few shallow pleats
in front and in a close one at the back. On the
right side it is caught up to the hip in several folds'
and, if necessary, in one or two places at the back.
As for the underskirt it may be plain, kilted, or
merely pleated on the left side.

A rrovizt, combinstion may be attained by supplying
a new skirt, and reserving the old one to wear with
one of the new redingotes. In this way a couple of
gowns—new, or nearly as good as new—may be had
for little more than the price of one. Suppose the
original dress to have consisted of a brown faille
skirt and woollen tunic to match, figured with dark
blue lozenges or other geometric pattern, a new skirt
in blue woollen may be purchased to complete the
tunic, while the silk skirt forms the foundation of
another toilette.
* * *

Tun over-dress, or redingote, is in tawny brown
Limousine cloth, striped with fancy lines of deep red;
it requires four brzadths, and, as the feminine reader
knows, this cloth is woven double width. They are
cut long enough to cover the underskirt entirely, and
three seams only are sewn up. The bottom edge and
fronts are backed with a false hem, or, better still,
lined throughout with thin silk or satinette ; at the
top they are closely gathered all round a pointed
bodice, the front edges of the unsewn seam just meet-
ing in front. The bodice is double-breasted—the
piece which doubles over having no portion of the
skirt attached—and fastened with three large horn
buttons, a similar number being placed on the oppo-
site side. Above this it is turned back with wide.

tiLt,ioJ