The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1885-01-24 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DR2BS.

b writing upon present fashions, Myra's Journal
of Dress and Fashion, says: The month of January
brings a lull in the production of the novelties. All
the winter modes, except, perhaps, those referring to
ball toilettes, are settled, and novelty must be sought
in new ways of making use of the resouroes in
materials and styles already at our command. In
this direction there is, fortunately, plenty to record.
The New Year's visits are always a signal for the ap-
pearance of numberless handsome toilettes prepared
expressly for the occasion, and the pleasure ladies
find in calling on and congratulating their relations
and friends is not unmixed with the agreeable sensa-
tion of knowing themselves to be well and stylishly
dressed, the fashionable costume being supplemented
by the most bewitching capote the modiste can
devise.

IT need hardly be said that the smaller the capote
the more fashionable it is; velvet, either drawn flat
over the shape or bouillonne on it, is the material
most used, but always to accord with the dress. A
very pretty model in violet velvet, but equally suitable
for any other colour, has the small crown covered
with a skilfully cleated drapery of velvet: the brim
very flat at the sides, is arranged in a large full
bouillonne at the top. In the centre of this puff is a small
humming bird, and behind and above it is a plume of
feather tips, in a lighter shade of violet, falling from
the centre is a kind of parasol shape, and fastened in
by a bow of satin ribbon to match. The short narrow
strings, tied in a small bow under the chin, are of
similar ribbon.

ANOTHER model, in ashes of roses velvet, has the
crown covered with a flat piece of velvet arranged in
place by means of a few small pleats on either side,
the brim is rather open, and lined with white velvet,
barred with gold. A bow of ashes of roses ribbon
velvet nestles under the brim and rests upoa the hair.
Rouleaute,sof velvet divide the brim from the crown,
and border the chapeau at the back, and the narrow
strings are of velvet ribbon. The ornaments consist
of two small dark birds on the left side, with a plume
of white marabouts tipped with gold rising behind
them in the centre of the chapeau.

THE only mode that can be truly said to be uni-
versal is that of jackets with basques of varying
depths, never, however, exceeding eight inches. For
very slender figures the basques may be exceedingly
short, but longer basques are more becoming when the
figure has lost its first youthful slimness. If the
basque is long, it is often opened at each seam to the
waist if the edge is trimmed ; sometimes it is only
opened about half way up, and then pleats are formed
underneath. The basque at the back is pleated in
round or fluted pleats, or else ornamented with revers.
The collar is straight, and the sleeves are of a con-
venient size; the front is either double-breasted, with
a single revers, or it may be opened over a waistcoat.

JACKETS are trimmed in many different ways, and
a great number are not trimmed at all. Braids of
every description are employed; metallic, beaded,
embroidered with chenille, or formed of chenille
plaits; the lower edge of the braid is further orna-
mented with drops or pendants to match in many
cases. Very narrow bands of fur are a favourite
trimming, and theas are sometimes sewn on under the
edge, forming a kind of fur fringe only. A plastron
or large revers of the same fur is an admirable addi-
tion, and gives a very stylish cachet to vetement.
Sealskin and re-al astrakan are the furs chiefly used
in this way.

Tun buttons are large and very ornamental; many
are of metal, in fhe same colour as the material, but
buttons are also made of antique silver, of burnished
steel, with a boar's head in relief, on a jacket of
mouse-grey cloth, of gold on chamois colour, or nut
brown on green; a colour that. is fashionable in all
shades, from verdigris to the darkest tints of Russian
and bottle green.

FUR pelerines are worn larger than last year, and
pelerines are also made of velvet, plush, and silk,
ornamented with a large fur revers and a high stand-
up collar. Smooth furs, such as beaver, sealskin,
and astrakan, are the kinds preferred for this pur-
pose.

A NEW mantle, intended as a carriage wrap, is made
of dark blue cloth, pinked out in large saw-teeth of
scallops at the edge. Under this, and showiag be-
yond it, is a similar band of pinked out scallops in
red cloth. Bows of blue velvet, lined and bound
with red satin, and falling in very long loops, form the
trimming.

}loons are again becoming fashionable, especially
on pelerines and on the small mantelets with turned
under sleeves, which at first sight look like pelerines ;
the hoods are usually lined with silk or satin, but
fur is occasionally used.

A NEW style of redingote is worth mentioning, for
it is far more elegant in appearance than the ordinary
form of this useful vetement. The foundation is a
tight-fitting sleeveless redingote of grey ottoman, with
pleats at the back. The sleeve is of ottoman
and plush pekin, in the same shade; it falls in a
straight panel, with the stripes downwards, from the
shoulder nearly to the edge, the front part forming a
small sleeve, and the back curved gradually to the
waist, where it ends under a passementerie ornament
heading the pleats. The vetement is fastened in
front by cord brandenhurgs, and a stand-up plush
collar completes it at the neck.

DRESSFS for morning outdoor wear are of
.the
simplest but also of the most comfortable description.
The most stylish models are those that are made of
the roughest materials; frieze, such as was used for
monkish gowns, buffalo cloth, and molleton, • are
made up without draperies or trimming of any kind.
The skirts are full, and put in at the waist with
several rows of gathers; the corsage resembles a
habit bodice in its severe simplicity, and is very short
on the hips and pointed at the back. In front is a
double-breasted plastron fitting as closely as possible,
and plainly bound with ribbed braid, which is con-
tinued round the edge of the bodice. Far back on
the left aide is a long bow of woollen braid, falling
very much like a nun's chaplet. A slender, supple
figure looks to the greatest advantage in this style of
costume, but the short basques are an impossibility
for the short waisted. For outdoor wear the corsage
is covered by the small jacket of plain or ribbed
cloth, followmg the curves of the figure closely, and
provided with side pockets, into which the well-
gloved hands are not infrequently thrust. Cloth
costumes are also made with waistcoats of sealskin or
astrakan.