The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1884-10-25 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

LIE West-end is lively once more, and "society
comes back to town. Old fashions are revived,
though new ones are introduced day by day. Among
the former, says a writer in the Queen, may be noted,
the appearance of the pretty sleeveless jacket, a gar-
ment which really is useful and attractively chic when
well made. Also the ruchings and puffings of silk
which were worn round skirts of long ago, and the
narrow kilting showing below the edge of the petti-
coat, of any bright self-coloured stuff. The round
plain skirts have upright trimmings cf velvet or
broad mohair braid, and this style, again, is but one
that was favoured at least eight or ten years ago.
Tucked skirts are not so much seen, but in their
place are tucks of velvet laid on, and placed close to
the edge and each other. These are always of a
contrasting colour, and when skilfully managed are
very effective. A skirt of a " dried moss" twill serge
had two narrow over-lapping tucks of silk velvet, one
crimson, one brown, so arranged. The waistcoat of
velvet was parti-coloured, loose, and hanging below
the waist, and was surrounded by a band of the two
colours, with long ends arranged at one end. These
fell straight to the middle of the skirt, where they
were fastened by a large metal clasp, and lastly
spread out in unequal loops; the bodice was round,
and had collar and cuffs of tucked velvet, both
finished with closely placed loops of narrow velvet
of the two colours, in lieu of a frilling of lace.

JELvrrnerT, velvet, and plush are all combined with.
cashmere or soft serge, or the "hundred and one
new woollens impossible to name in detail. The
skirts are made in a novel way, with box-nlaits of
velvet or terry brocade, forming stripes from the
waist to the edge, and laid on the plain stuff beneath.
The tunic is of the plain material; it is formed as a
short point in front, and is gathered up high at each
side, the folds standing straight out from thence to
the back, where they fall in long, wide-spreading
loops. A border of small silk pompons gives addi-
tional elegance to the tunic, and trims the jacket,
shaped bodice. This has a box-plait of velvet, open-
ing out from the throat down the front, and at the
back of the basque, which is curved on the hips, is a
number of short velvet loops. In black and in colours
this gown is a most excellqnt example of present fashion
in the make of winter costumes. It is all very well to
declare that plain skirts will ere long be exclusively
worn; but we argue in favour of custom and taste,
which will surely prevail in the end. A plain skirt
does not suit us all, any more than a bonnet or hat
looks as well worn by youth as old age. The severely
simple can only be adopted by very young girls with
success, and they must have also the beauties of
nature, in face, figure, ankles, and feet. It is true
that most sensible women have now quite discarded
the dresses all laden with flounces and burdened with
meaningless folds, which are wholly unfit for the
daily routine of home life; but, au contraire, the
tunic, shaped simply and well, and the over-skirt,
looped up with grace, is as much worn as ever by
those who do not bow to fashion blindfold, nor
accept all her rules without quest.

HAVING touched on the subject of gowns, writes the
same correspondent, we now approach that of both
bonnets and hats, and the chi:irons of modish headgear.
The helmet-shaped bat and the gable-end bonnet are
both quite the favourite style, and though some time
back they were voted so "odd," too fantastic for
strict English tastes, they are looked upon now with
decided approval, and everywhere worn by well-
dressed women. Velvet embroidered with gold, and
soft felts worked over with colours, are much used for
bonnets, the crowns of which are covered with either
of these materials, and the brims with plain velvet or
twisted gold cord. The shapes are all high, but close
to the head, and are flat and straight over the ears;
the trimmings stand well up in front, and these are
of feathers in endless profusion, or of ribbon bows
mixed with stiff wings. The gable-shaped brim with
its lining of lace is made of some rich coloured velvet,
while the crown is of felt (it is beautifully light),
which is puckered all round at its edge.

Tun following is the description of some bonnetsthe
writer had seen: A bonnet of cinnamon velvet had the
canote shaped crown of cream felt, which was worked
with a large spray of flowers and leaves in gold
spangles, brown silks, and gold beads. The brim was
of velvet arranged in loose folds, and was raised high
in front to a point. It was trimmed with three
feathers, of pure eannelle shade, and with small grey
birds placed near the hair. Another bonnet made in
pale biscuit felt had a fulled front of velvet of a lovely
myrtle green; the crown was shaped out at the back
by a horseshoe shaped velvet revers; over the brow
was a large bow of myrtle-green velvet and felt, with
long double loops spreading round to the sides, and
reaching almost to the back; the centre of the bow
was of felt, and the strings were of velvet. Another
was composed of white felt, the crown puffed and
raised in the centre, the plain sides covered with
appliqué flowers, worked in all shades of pale silks;
the brim, which was pointed both back and front, was
covered with gathered watered silk of the new shade
of vert bronze; over the forehead stood rampant a
sheaf of waving moss, with peacock's eyes, starlike,
among it, golden plumage and bird's gilded claws, all
massed in artistic confusion. The watered silk strings
came from under the point of the back of this beauti-
ful bonnet, which, of course, was for wear upon dressy
occasions, such as weddings, receptions, or teas. A
ladylike bonnet was of dull wood-brown velvet, the
round crown embroidered with " uniform " thread of
a small running pattern with leaves; the brim, lined
with gathered gold lace, was of cut beads, in all shades
of brown, in a framework of gold filigree; a satin-lined
bow was the only trimming, and the whole was in
excellent taste.

BONNETS are are all made with strings, as for
winter they surely should be, and some are trimmed
with the new wool yak lace,which is woven with silver
or gold. A capote of velvet of rich bacchante hue
(the new name for the shade, lie de tin) had strings
of
.yak lace dyed to match, with a pattern of large
golden spots. The frilled front of this bonnet was
uncommon and highly becoming. It was of velvet
edged with lace, and widened out over the forehead,
in the centre of which it was crossed by a fold which
was turned in close under the brim. On the right
side of the crown was a cluster of shaded feathers of
great beauty, which drooped and fell over the front.
Crochetted wool is now used for bonnets, and stock-
ings are also employed! A close-fitting shape had the
crown of red wool, the sides slightly puckered and
folded behind; the brim rested on the hair and was
of red velvet of a deeper shade, as were also the satin
lined strings. Red feathers, curved and upright, were
placed outside well to the front, which was further
adorned by the head of a bird with red and black
plumage and crest of gold. These crocheted bonnets
are as yet the novelty of the autumn season, and as
such will be much in demand. The lovely nuance of
the velvet and wool makes a charming effect on the
bead, and the colour is one which for brilliance and
warmth cannot well be surpassed for dull days.
Pretty toques for young girls, with a boa and a muff,
of velvet and close-knitted wool will be made for the
winter, when frost chills the air and skaters flit fast
o'er the ice.

The bonnet "bag bleu" is a novel idea and is
simple and neat. The high crown is flat and inclined
to the front, and the brim is quite plain and un-
trimmed. We were told that the stockings are
actually used, and the pair (?) that we saw were deep
blue. At the front of the crown was a large "cab-
bage" bow of blue ribbons standing erect, and the only
relief were the strings from the back, of a drab shade
of velours de laine. The L'Orient hat is of quaint
design with its sugarloaf crown and straight brim—
the former of tapestry woven with gold, and the latter
of moss-green velvet. In the front is a loosely-tied
bow, of gold patterned drab silk galloon, and above it
a pert parrakeet spreads its wings of green, crimson,
and gold. An exceedingly smart-lookimg young
ladies' hat is of felt of a dull tone of brown, with a
turned-up and shaped velvet brim. This is curved in
the front, at the sides, and at the back in a way diffi-
cult to describe. On the crown was a watered silk
bow, in the same shade of brown as the hat. For
bridesmaids these hats would be specially pretty—in
felts of all colours or in white.

IN describing some new winter pelisses for small
boys and girls, and walking costumes intended for young
girls, the same writer says they were of warm Cheviot
tweed or thick beaver cloth, which are braided or
bordered with fur; and uncommonly cosy the little
ones look when enwrapped in such well-turned-out
clothes. A dull Prussian-blue and a rich myrtle-
green are the shades which are mostly affected, and
both are pretty. The pelisses fit closely, and yet do
not impede the quick steps of the child, and are made
with a shoulder-piece falling in front like a cape, thus
protecting the chest. A novel effect is produced at
the back, which is cut in one piece from the neck—
viz., two long thin tabs of the cloth, laid on flat, and
increasing in width to the waist. A blue cloth
pelisse was trimmed with silk braid, very narrow,
and sewn on in lines: and another of myrtle was
bordered with fur, the brown tone of which was in
perfect harmony with the colour of the material.

compLETn outdoor dress for a young girl of ten
was of crimson Cheviot, made with a straight-hanging
skirt, which was cut as a sacque from the chest back
and front, and was gathered all round to a yoke.
Above the hem of the skirt was a narrow band of
golden-brown Japanese sable; the sleeves had cuffs of
fur, and were plain, fitting close at the wrists. A sash
of soft silk, of the same shade as the cloth, was tied in
loose knots at the waist. A small cape, to take on
and off, gave additional warmth when required, and
greatly assisted the general idea of a quaint-looking
old-world costume. The hat, also, was ancient in
form, of the time of King Henry VII., and between
its broad top—low, spreading, and soft—and its cir-
cular, turned-down stiff brim, was a tuft of the far
which appeared on the dress and tthelApe, which
were trimmed to match. Tam o' Shanter caps for
girls, and "jockeys" for small boys' wear, are in
velvet, in plush, and in serge, or can be made in any
material chosen for the jacket, costume, or great coat.
A brown cloth pelisse with a cape was trimmed with
the loosely curled fur of the greyish white Bokhara
lamb, and this is much used also on infants' outdoor
math'.