The Stourbridge Observer, Cradley Heath, Halesowen & District Chronicle.
Stourbridge, West Midlands, England, 1883-12-08 00:00:00

GOSSIP ON DRESS.

FRom an article in a London contemporary we ex.
tract the following description of some walking pelisses
made by a Regent-street establishment for the young
Princesses of Wales, which are in excellent taste, and
of undoubted quality and workmanship. The first
was of serviceable, rough Scotch Cheviot of rather
dark fawn colour, with lines of black, gold, brown,
and red in broken and undecided checks, and trimmed
with narrow bands of dyed racoon round the cape and
sleeves ; the back was arranged with three box plaits,
the centre one almost hidden by a broad perpendicular
band of eimilar fur, The second was of smooths
surfaced beaver cloth of a new shade of brick-red,
which was very bright-looking and effective, bordered
with bands of shaded marabout to match. A third
was also of beaver cloth of an extremely pretty shade
of slate-grey, and trimmed with black marabout; this
was carried round the skirt, as far as the centre seam
at the back, which was filled by a group of narrow.
folded plaits.

OTHER garments for juvenile wearers are out with
plain fronts, and the seams at the back are left opei:,
displaying plaits beneath. A pelisse of geranium-red
cloth was made in this novel fashion, the little cape
slightly gathered at the shoulders, and edged with
natural beaver. An elastic placed under the arms
kept the cape in its place close to the chest and back,
a great protection and convenience should the child be
running or exposed to a high wind. A pretty minis,-
ture dolman of gray cashmere was trimmed with a
fringe of skunk fur. It had square cut sleeves, which,
however, sprung from the shoulders instead of the side
seams below the elbow, thus allowing the complete
freedom of movement so neceesary to childish activity.
Round gathered toques are made of the same material
as the pelisses, &c. They are somewhat like a page's
cap at the time of Francis 1., with a large button in
the centre, and, at the side, a tuft of fur matching the
trimming used.

TEE Queen, in its weekly article on "London
Fashions," says :—The revival of bygone modes is
again illustrated by the introduction of immense fur
muffs, which will, it is expected, occupy a prominent
position as a feature of the winter fashions. They are
made of skunk, racoon, and marten tail, and lined
with bright-coloured silks. The ends describe a curve
instead of the formal straight lines so generally seen,
and are certainly more convenient for the proper
protection of the delicate hands they are intended to
keep warm. Some of these formidable articles are
ornamented at one side with a large cluster of ribbon
velvet in bceuf aanglant or capucine shades; others
have cords and tassels of bright silk matching Lie
lining in colour. Smaller ones are of velvet, satin, or
oriental silk, and trimmed with French lace or chenille
fringes. With few exceptions, these are decorated
with owls' heads, doves, squirrels, and tropical
plumage, and sometimes (horribile dictu) the entire
body of a cub fox or baby kitten is to be seen as if
warmly ensconced in its bed of velvet ruching, "cox
comb " silk, marabout, or chicor6e chenille.

THE Daily News devotes an article to the inviting
subject of "Wedding Dresses." The following ex-
tracts will be interesting to lady readers :—Notwith-
standing the wider range now allowed by the mode,
there are many ladies who honour the estate of holy
matrimony by appearing in richest velvets and bro-
cades of much elaboration. It is thus that some of
the newest and most original toilets may be seen
on such occasions. At a recent wedding, a beauti-
ful guest wore an entire costume of cloth and
velvet in the deep rich tint of red, known by
the very ugly name of " sang-de-besuf." The skirt
was arranged in the panels now so fashionable,
which give additional apparent height to the figure.
The jacket fitted to perfection, and was edged
with marabout feather trimming of a similar tint with
the cloth and velvet. A felt bonnet also in " sang-de-
bosuf," was trimmed with velvet, the strings being
fastened with a brooch of pearls and diamonds to
match the jewels pendant from the ears. Another
beautiful toilet was worn by a reigning Queen of
Fashion, and consisted of velvet, brocade, and chenille,
in every possible tint of brown, amber, russet, and
autumnal gold. The bonnet and tiny muff were
covered with the foliage of the Virginian creeper in
its autumn dress, and a spray of Gloire de Dijon roses,
fastened on the left shoulder, made the highest note of
an enchanting harmony.

WHITE has of late been popular for bridesmaids'
wear, the various Royal marriages having been thus
characterised. The group of white-clad maidens
surrounding the bride, clustered together as though
they tried to shield her from the general view, has no
doubt a pretty effect. At the same time, pink or blue
or canary-coloured bridesmaids come better into the
picture, serving as a connecting link between the
snowy whiteness of the bride and the subdued
richness of the tints worn by the guests. At a
chrysanthemum wedding, lately solemnized, each
pair of bridesmaids wore the colours of dif-
ferent varieties of these flowers. Two were in
gowns of sulphur colour. Two more wore garments
of the deep brown-red in which chrysanthemums
occasionally clothe their petals. Two others were in
the vivid yellow of the flower, and the remaining pair
were in purest white. Each carried a bouquet of the
flowers in all these tints, and each wore a white lace
bonnet, in which blossoms of her own special tint
formed the princioal trimming. Only the bride car-
ried hothouse flowers. The favours were chrysanthe-
mum buds—white for ladies, coloured for gentlemen.
The effect was quite as good, so far as vision only
went, as that of a rose-wedding, which was prettily
devised and well carried out some few seasons ago.

WRITING under the general head "The Fashions," a
Specal Correspondent of the Globe says :—Cats, owls,
hawks, weasels, squirrels, and ad borts of " varmint,"
garnish in no measured degrt e the crowns of hats and
bonnets, or else mangled large wings, or a perfect
chevavx de Mee of delicate small tropical or sweet
English song-birds' wings, testify to the result of the
past few years' clack on culture, Pigeons'. wings are
most in demand because cheap, and of so many colours
that they are easily matched in materials. Suchlike
bird ornaments are put on any description of bonnet,
and these are legion, three of the newest being stained
horsehair; cork shaved thin, and mixed with fur or
chenille; and felt, with patterns of embossed velvet
on it.

THE same writer remarks that ivy-green velvet and
grey cloth, or London smoke cashmere trimmed with
chinchilla, and a toque to match with a brilliant
cherry aigrette to give a note of strong pitch to the
costume of Bo quiet an sir, will be seen at some
of the best skating parties, but skirts of woollen
with a design of Oriental colourings will be worn
with plain cloth jackets. Another woollen, specially
appreciated because it is a thorough change from the
checks and stripes which have ruled so long, is
self-hued in ground, with a coloured detached pattern
in raised loops, as if it were pieces of carpet sown
on. With a skirt of this the ground mahogany
colour, the bodice would be mahogany habit cloth or
velvet, and, if the latter, some velvet would also be
introduced into the skirt, when the costume would be
an afternoon one; for strictly fashionable women
make a difference between morning walking and
afternoon calling dress. In the mcrning a dress must
be all wool, but two materials, except in the case of
braided or furred cloth and serge; in the afternoon
silken goods (velvet chiefly) are mingled with woollen;
in the evening amalgamation is still the law, but the
union is between plain silks and brocades, or a mar-
riage of velvets with shot glace or gros grain.

OASIMERE and nun's veiling are net now considered
dressy enough for evening wear, except on young girls,
and then the stuff is liberally trimmed with lace oz
embroidered with silk. The newest agraffes few
draperies of such light tissuEs are not metal, but wood
carved after the likeness of heraldic unicorns, griffins,
lions, &a., and imitate discoloured old ivory. Greys
still remain in favour, but the iron shades have
lightened to what is called cinder, and this is a tint
permissible in silks for evening wear, while iron was
no. Cinder silk, or cashmere, is embroidered with
cinder beads, but still more tender tones of grey are
prettier by night, and the lovelie,t of them bears the
strained appellation of "elephant's breath." It is
deliciously soft in velvet, Rhadame, or ottoman,
with brocade of darker shades, and, by the way, such
brocades are designs of wild fruit, and its ground is
natte.

Fon ball-room dresses we are told that white tulle
is the chief material, and it is made up very simply,
the skirt being a succession of layers one over
another, like a ballet dancer's, gathered into a shaped
waistband which is hidden by the bodice. The top
skirt has several rows of floss silk, or tinsel thread,
run above its deep hem, and is showered all over
with flowers hanging loosely by long stalks sewn
across their middle, petals, or leaves ; the effect is
most elegant. Bodices are of firm substance, and
may either match the skirt or its floral trim-
mings. When bodices are of dark velvet or satin
they have no sign of a tucker or berths to soften their
line against the skin, but lace draped round the
shoulder's edge, as a bertha without tucker, is gene-
rally added with pale colours. Lace is used in pro-
fusion, some dresses being wholly of very wide lace
flounces, on a coloured foundation. Bayadere lace is
se unique that it has struck public taste, but although
the pattern is a marvel of workmanship it is not
suited to the material employed. Bayatihre is white or
4cru, some six Inches wide, with piping shepherds or
limner Arcadian figures.

THE GRAIN ELEVATORS OF CHICAGO.

The writer of a series of articles entitled " A Trip
to America," appearing in the Morning Post, says :
No visitor ought to leave Chicago without seeing
one of the large grain elevators in full operation.
This is not eseiy unless you are lucky enough to
time your visit to the exact moment when the
operation of unloading cars takes place. The work
is very swiftly done, the elevator swallowing the
grain like a hungry dog devours a mouthful of meat,
and is ready for more before any more is ready for
him. The train of cars usually runs inaide what
may be called the ground fl or of the elevator, and
their contents are shovelled out by machinery into the
cellars, from whence the grain is " elevated " many
storeys high to the vary top of the building by means
of scoop-shaped nuckate attached at short intervals to
an endless band running over drum;. Zaving been
"elevated," it finds its way into one of the vast re-
ceptacles, where it is weighed an'd awaits such
further disposal as may be ordered. ft is obvioua
that having been raised to this height, it is
the simplest of oparatana to cause it to descend
down any of the numerous wooeatt pipes in
any direction that may be desired. All the arrange-
ments are most systematic, and every kind end
quality of grain is kept quite distinct—nay, it is
almost impossible that there should be any admixture
or confusion af the property of different cousignor,..
There are 16 of these elevators, with a combined
capacity of 18,500,000 bushels. The total receipts of
grain of all kinds last year were about 165,000,000
bushels, The number of vessels clearing the port (on
the lake, of course) was about 14,000, with a gross
tonnage of 4i millions.