The Dorset County Express and Agricultural Gazette.
Dorchester, Dorset, England, 1878-09-24 00:00:00

LEAVE, FROM • DEviHR.I,IRY TOURISTS NOTE

BOOK
By JOHN ItY LIT ROBINSON.
TIII CRANPILL ISLANDS. -OUIRNSEY.

To those who have visited the popular watering-places
of our own country, time after time, until they are desirous
of • change, we du not know any excursion we could more
heartily recommend, with • reasonable distance, so
healthy and thoroughly enjoyable as • trip of a few weeks
to the Channel Islands. To many persons, however, there
is • very serious drawback I, the pleasure of the journey
—the Icsigth of the sea voynge—which, to those who are
easily affected by the motion of the vessel, is quite
sufficient to deter them from visiting the islands.
Inhabitants of the West of England, sailing from Dirt-
is ~,,, th to Guernsey, have only about eighty miles of sea
sailing ; t , thou living ia London, the midland counties,
and the North of England, the shortest passage is by way
of Weymouth (eighty-two mike.) Of the captains of the
reseals on this line we heard en exceedingly favourable
account. The knowledge of the intricacies of the narrow
channels between the rocks, alternately covered and
oncovered by the rising and falling tide* was said to be
very great ; while their careful attention was so unremit-
ting that, we were told, no accident had occurred to any of
the buts under their management. We had Utmost
settled to creel by this route, Nit, as we were unable to
leave London in Um* to catch the Wednesday s night
but, and there would not be another for several days
(twice or thrice a-week being se often es they sail), we
resolved to go down to Southamptos and erode over by the
mei] boat, which leaven forthwith.? and Jersey,every night
or early morning. After a ran of about the... hours, we
method &withanipion, and went on board. Many of our
fellow-traveUets, dreading the distressing sensations of Pea
althorn mode the best preparations they could for
spending the time on deck; but as the night was dark as
we steamed down Southampton water, and there was no
chance of discerning anything on either the Hampshire or
Isle of Wight meet (which we had seen more than once
before la broad daylight), we secured • comfortable berth
below; had • fair amount of sleep, and turned out we
• deck, after • capital refreshing wash, shout six o'clock.
' All round, fare. the eye could see, nothing was visible but
the vast expense of ocean: and as, after a while, the
buss. felt exceedingly chilly, we tuned in mein, and
must have slept pretty soundly, as we did not awake until
we had passed between Alderney and the Csuests.
Shortly afterwards we had Berm on our left hand, and a
little laser steamed up to the landing place on the pier;
and ware in Guernsey. We had so exustlent un,,, from
the sea of St. Peter's Port, the principal town on the
Island. It presents a lone irregular front to the sea, of a
mile and • half, with quaint old houses needing against
the steep cliff ode near the harbour, and more pretentious
villa residences, of more modern construction, around it
Tbe appearance from a distance was exceedingly
picturesque, Elizabeth College occupying a proasimmt
position snout in the midst of the ILAN of buildings
opposite ne. Still more prominent, though built in • style
of architecture for which we do not C***, roes the Victoria
Tower, commemorstive at the queen's visit in ma To
the north of this is the Governors house. On the cliffs
to the south. Fort Guru, brietlith with cannon, and
&leant close to us, beyond the lighthouse on our left, on
an island at the entranee of the harbour, rue the ramperts
and mations looking buildings of various ages of thistle
Cornet AA the moraine sun shone brightly on these
variou objects of interest, and our sail of one hundred
sad twenty-three miles, with it. uncomfortable sensa-
tions, was • thing of the out. we stepped ashore with
feelings of great satisfaction, and proceeded to make •
closer a.uuaustance with St. Peter's Port. After upending
a short time in the town, depositing luggage and securing
lodgings for the time we intended remaining, we started
off on what preyed to be an eight hours walk to the
extreme souththet portion of the island, by the cliffs, and
back, inland. Passing the Albert Monument, near the
Old Town Church, with the harbour on our left hand, we
slowly wound our way round the south part of the bay
past the excellent bathing and minim ng enclosures, so
arranged that every fresh tide supplies them with &change
of sea water. Two of these appeared to be for the use of
the public without charge, but for the sexes separately.
The other two, also for males and females apart, seemed to
be moos select, • charge being male for admission, towels
feud, Sc. As we leisurely ascended the steep road lead-
ing to St. George's Fort, we pained frequently to admire
the beautiful views landward to the north-west, and out
to sea. The island of Herm and Jethou, and the two Sarks,
with numerous rocky islets, become more and more
plainly visible the higher we ascenithd. The aroma of the
wild plants around us was very delightful, and the large
white dowers of the c.iuvolvulum major presented a
beautiful contrast to the deep green foliage of the hedges,
in which they grew by thousands. When we reached the
heights on which the fortress is built, we pausal awhile to
admire the magnificent view opened out before us. In
addition In the picturesque appearance of St. Peter's Port,
the harbour, with vessels of various shapes and sizes the
pier with crowds of the silken to the island' the light-
and Castle Cornet, with sea gulls wheeling around
it at intervals, swooping down into the water to seise
some unfortunate lith which their quick eye had detected
rising to the surface, the islands of Herrn anti Jethou,
of greater and lesser Sark, we could ducern .distinctly,
though not visi He from below, the distant island of Alderney
to the north-east; opposite to us, due east, the coast of
France, and fee away to the south-easi, the cliffs of Jersey.
The atmosphere was delightful, lend:ling, and invigorat-
in‘ We felt as If the simple act of sitting and inhaling
it brought new lies and enjoyment to oar smoke saturated
lungs ; as my companion quaintly said, "It was like meat
and drink at the same time" We met with two very kind
and intelligent allure whilst wandering about the fort,
who appeared much urised to find any one refuse the
glasses of brandy, which in their generosity they were
good enough, more thee once, to offer. This fort, and the
one at Aldsrney, are said to both* most capable of sustain-
s protruded siege of any on the Wands. We noticed a
number of heavy rune mounted in various positions,
towards the sea. On the lutist& it t. said to be tenable
for thirty days. Some indeed think so highly of it, ax to
isay that it completely commands Castle Cornet and the
whole Wings of the little Ruud, and could only be taken
by • fouls having command of the channel. The encienta
of the fort includes several small bat extremely piettne-
seque little sum, but on going to the edges of some of
them, we had to turn back, es they have been carefully
warped and rendered inaccessible. At the highest point
el one of them we came scrota • small specs covered
with greu with abundance of small trees on the
further side;
_and were =prised at the great number
oil rabbits feeding within • few yards of as. We were
tase_t_Lese hew careless they were our presence'
it segued well fee the sAdiers shithead iiiiiiicaglw therni... weft et thein. Leather the fe2
meth 4Mtin Variall""s"
smog th•

brushwood, as we descended the steep wooded slops
from • projecting point, where were erected • small round
tower, sad • building with on iron door, son/rely fastened,
which we thought contained cannon or ammunition;
their None • platform in front evidently prepared for a
gun. We found the bay a preVy little sandy spot, with
abundance of boulders on the higher part of the beech.
It muted well adapted for bathing. Several well
dressed youths were indulging thenuelne in a luxury of
a dip, whilst we Mt on the leach enjoying the scenery
and pleasant refreshing breeze. Irons the sea At the
edge of the beach we found • small battery end e.
• Martell° tower, and the ruins of an old building which
we were informed, had been a chapel. 'Fp. ties; saws
stood near It was eery line. Nothing need be wishiel more
beautiful and picturesque than the charming little msi.
depose overlooking the bay, and the mixture of rough end
wish to see the romantic portions of the island should not
fall to visit the Bee du Nst, at the south extremity of this I
bay, where there an two or three caverns, end • chimney. '
similar to those eo numerous in Sark. As we stood at •
little distance from the shore, admiring the prospect end
looking through an arch of rock at the water beyond
shining brightly in the sun, the dash 01 the incoming tida
sent up a cloud of spray which reflected the solar beams
us from a thousand glittering gems of lovely hoes and
various colours, a remarkable sight, end one which we
shall not easily forget. Leaving the be by a narrow
winding road, through dense undeswoo vrith &baud-
anal of honeysuckle end brilllantly-colound wild
flowers, we ascended the promontory at the south-
, soden extremity of the island, where is • I,,(ty memo-
mint erected by the grateful inhabitants in memory of
rocky scenery and wild vegetation around. Those who
SS John Doyle, formerly governor of the island, to whom
they are indebted for meat inaprovementa in their roads
and other public "'mkt We found the key at • cottage
near, and ucended the monument bye eight of 140 steps.
As the cliff at the base is 300 feet above the sea.level, and
the column rises nearly 100 feet higher, it may sully be
imaeined the view was very the indentations of the
oust, with the numerous bays and litUfi covet. and • large
portion of the southeast of the island being distinctly
visible. From Doyle's column we found our way nearly
to the extremity of Jerbourg Point and Moulin Huet Bay.
NI other port of the island equals this bay for the exqui•
site beauty of rock scenery ; iii. very necessary, however,
to use considerable caution, for although at low water it
is oceeible to wander on the beach for a considerable
distance, it is not always as easy to return. The water
rises with such rapidity, and the walls of the cliffs rising
almost vertically to the height of or 300 feet, • person
caught by the tide would hare to remain for hours until
It receded. There are numerous objects of interest to be
met with by the geologist and botariist, which will amply
riper all the time and trouble spent in their acquisition.
We found several tine specimens of the broad-leaved hart's
tongue fern, some of which we secured, and tried to bring
home, but se they dried in our knapsack, they necked
and broke to pieces. We found some specimens of marble
very prettily veined. but as we had not geologist's hammer
oreh, we had to content ourselves with • fragment of
a few ounces in weight. Having wandered about until
nearly six o'clock we applied to the keeper of the key
for a cup of tea, but she seemed completely astonished
at the request, and was sorry she could not obi* es.
Perhaps they had no fire in the house and she did not
wish to light one., near bedtime: for she said herbs.-
bend would be home to supper in • few minutes (5.50
p.m.). and when they bad got lt they would not
pb:ilf:s
to before they went bed, as they went to sleep in
time and rose very early, and considering their Mon
the absence of all light, in or out of the house, alter dusk.
except node or oil lamp, mid the probability that rend-
ing and intellectual employment would be rarely indulged
In, they did wisely in following the old maxim "Marl, to
bed and early to rise," whether it made them wealthy and
1,47
one c:;,:olddnountbrayt. say, built
iwnogulbdycoisthdeueshigtob er.a.hmilth4
had a very pleasant evening walk, ruching St. Peter
Port about seven o'clock, bad a look at Itzutetrille Zeiss.
,
noted as the residence of Victor Hugo, the celebrated
French novelist and poet. It is usual to allow strangers
to Innit round the Went but as we were told in the town
that he was at borne with a select party of intimate
friends, se remitted frvill al:Miring for permissiott. Alter
en excellent cup .of tea, which we thoroughly enjoyed
hoursw lich
dr ramble about town,ihhieng f. 7 and,on
xeo
to we
thede liaghlhuopulesed: officer
eels (which are said abound here, reaching at times the
weight of 64 be.), bade taw words on our return with the
guard on duty at Castle Cornet as to where to apply for
permission to inspect the interior on the morrow, and than
retired to rest, thoroughly gratified and satisfied with our
first day's experience of Guernsey scenery.