Patent GB-190623024-A (GB)
Title: Improvements in Lace and in the Method of Making the Same.
Inventor: BIRKIN THOMAS ISAAC
Filed: 1906-10-18
Granted: 1907-05-30
Abstract: 23,024. Birkin, Sir T. I., Birkin, T. S., and Anderson, T. Oct. 18. Lace - making. - Relates to the production of any-motion cross-net, combination work, clothing, muslin, and Madras effects with right or left hand loops, and open-work and Swiss effects, on curtain lace machines in which the three or four guide-bars employed have, generally, three movements, and the jacks or pickers two movements, at each half-motion of the machine. Fig. 1 shows a machine with three full-threaded bars r, s, t, the back bar r carrying clothing threads u, the bar s spool threads v, and the front bar t warp threads x. A trick bar h rises one gait on the front halfmotion, or "motion," and falls one gait on the back motion. The pickers k are each connected by strings n, o to two double-action jacquards, which rise together but fall at different times. They can be held by the jacquard strings in the full-line position 3 clear of all the threads, or in the dottedline position 2 engaging the threads u, v ; or they may be left unselected when they engage all the threads. According to one method, the bars r, t are caused to rise two gaits before the pickers enter, and then to fall one gait, while the bar s rises one gait before the pickers enter a second time ; the bar r finally rises three gaits, after which the carriages pass to the back. On the back motion, the bar r falls three gaits, while the bars s, t, fall two gaits before the pickers enter, then falls one gait more while the bars s, t rise one gait, after which the carriages pass to the front. In a second method, the bars r, s rise three gaits before the carriages pass to the front, while on the back motion the pickers enter a second time, after which the bar s falls three gaits. In a third method, a thin spool thread bar y is placed between the thickspool thread-bar s and the bar t. On the front motion, the bars r, y rise two gaits, while the bar t rises one gait before the pickers enter, then fall one gait while the bar s rises one gait before the pickers enter a second time, the bar r finally rising three gaits, after which the carriages pass. The bars s, t then fall two gaits, while the bar r falls three gaits and the bar y one gait before the pickers enter, then rising one gait while the bar r falls a further gait, before the carriages re-pass to the back. Any-motion cross-net, embossed clothing, open-work and two gait muslin, or Madras effects with loops to the right or left, can be made by all three methods. Single and double nip combination effects can also be produced by methods (1) and (2) and single - nip combination and Swiss effects by method (3). By interchanging the bars r, s, clothing with the threads bound in on both sides is obtained by methods (1) and (3) in place of embossed clothing. Cross-net A, Fig. 3, is made from the threads u, v. Selected pickers k are moved to the positions 2 and 3 on alternate front or back motions. Embossed clothing B is also made from threads u, v, the pickers being held clear of the threads on both motions. Open-work C is made from all the threads. On the front motion, the pickers on the second entry are moved to positions 2 or 1. On the back motion, when working the guide-bars according to method (1), the pickers are moved in a similar manner, or to position 2 at the first entry, when working accordmg to methods (1) and (3). Two - gait muslin effects D with loops towards the left band are made from threads u by holding the pickers clear of the thread on the front motion, and moving them to engage the threads u, v on the back motion. Muslin effects E, having the loops towards the right hand, are obtained by reversing these movements. Madras effects F, with loops towards the left hand, are made from the threads u by moving the pickers to engage the threads u, v for three motions, commencing on a front motion, and then clear of the threads on the fourth motion. Madras effects G having the loops towards the right hand are obtained by moving the pickers to the position 2 for a front and back motion, and then to the positions 3 and 2 for the succeeding front and back motions. Single-nip combination work H is made by moving the pickers to the positions 2 and 1, respectively, on consecutive front and back motions. To obtain double-nip combination work by methods (1) and (2), the pickers are moved to positions 1 on both motions. Swiss effects K are made from the fine spool threads by method (3) only by moving the pickers to the positions 1 and 2, respectively, on the front and back motions. Bound-in clothing L is made according to methods (1) and (3) by interchanging the bars r, s, the pickers being held in position 3 on both motions.