Patent GB-356233-A (GB)
Title: Improvements in or relating to crepe fabrics
Filed: 1930-05-03
Abstract: Crape threads are obtained by treating textile threads, before or after twisting to a high degree, with aqueous or other emulsions or dispersions of organic substances having a swelling action on the filaments of the crape threads and/or on any sizing material thereon. The threads are dried after the application of the emulsions or dispersions and may be woven into fabrics upon which crape effects are produced by subjecting them to the action of an aqueous medium. Localized crape effects may also be obtained on fabrics consisting of or containing highly twisted crape threads by treating the fabrics locally with the emulsions or dispersions.  The invention is particularly applicable to crape threads made of organic derivatives of cellulose, e.g. cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetate, formate, propionate or butyrate, or cellulose ethers, e.g. ethyl, methyl or benzyl cellulose, or the analogous condensation products from cellulose and glycols or other polyhydric alcohols, but other materials, such as degummed silk, may also be employed for the crape threads. The fabrics may be composed wholly of yarns made of or containing organic derivatives of cellulose or they may comprise also yarns of other fibres, such as cotton, regenerated cellulose, wool or silk.  The swelling agents may be solvents for the cellulose derivatives, or other materials used for the crape threads, but, preferably, are substances having only a gelatinizing action thereon. If acetone-soluble cellulose acetate is used for the crape threads, the swelling agent may be selected from tetrachlorethane, chloroform, dichlorethylene, ethylene dichloride, chloretone or other halogenated compounds, also ketones, e.g. cyclohexanone, alcohols, e.g. benzyl alcohol, esters, particularly esters of high boiling point, e.g. diethylphthalate, and arylsulphonamides and their derivatives substituted in the nucleus or in the amide group, e.g. a xylene-monomethylsulphonamide or a mixture of such compounds.  The emulsions or dispersions of the swelling agents may be made with the aid of any suitable emulsifying or dispersing agents, such as saponin, soaps, e.g. sodium, potassium or ammonium oleate, or Turkey-red oil or other sulphonated soaps or oils.  Assistants which have a softening action on the cellulose derivative, size or on the swelling agents, e.g. acetone, methyl or ethyl alcohol, diacetone alcohol, ethyl lactate or other ester and hydrocarbons, e.g. benzene or toluene, may also be added.  Inorganic agents having a solvent, softening or swelling action on organic derivatives of cellulose, e.g. thiocyanates, may also be utilized p  if desired.  In examples (1) yarn composed of cellulose acetate filaments is passed through an emulsion of benzyl alcohol in ammonium oleate solution, dried, twisted to 65 turns per inch, woven into a warp of cellulose acetate yarn of low twist, and the fabric is then passed through a warm chamber in which it is subjected to the action of a fine mist or spray of water, and (2) a fabric composed of twisted and untwisted cellulose acetate yarns is printed with a thickened emulsion of benzyl alcohol in ammonium oleate, scoured, dried and finished in the ordinary manner; brocade-like effects are obtained.  Specifications 348,589, 351,999, 352,000 and 352,451 are referred to.