Patent GB-191501168-A (GB)
Title: Eyelet Sewing Machines.
Inventor: FAIRWEATHER WALLACE
IPC: D05B3/08
Filed: 1915-01-25
Abstract: 1168. Fairweather, W., [Singer Manufacturing Co.]. Jan. 25. Button-hole and eyelet-hole sewing-machines; needles, vibrating; lock-stitching.-In eyelet-sewing-machines, the stitch-forming mechanism is given rotary movements relatively to the work, and a reinforcing-cord or the like is supplied from a hollow spur rod carried by the looper elements and adapted to be rotated independently of and previous to the stitch-forming movements, for the purpose of winding round the point the required supply of cord. The spur rod 176, Fig. 2, is carried slidably and non-rotatably in a rotary standard 109 and is held in its upward position by a spring 177 and withdrawn by a treadle-rod 181. A bracket 184 carries the supply of cord 186, which passes through the hollow rod, the end being placed under the pressure-foot. The standard and rod are then rotated by hand through the pulley 113, belt 198, and pulley 197, Fig.17, to wind the amount of cord required for the operation about the point of the rod. The pulley is normally held by the spring 202 in driving relation with the disk 195 carried by a vertical shaft 189, which is rotated step by step from the shaft 66 through worm gearing 192, and communicates simultaneous rotary movements to the standard 109 and the needlecarrying cylinder 10 during the stitching operation. The standard 109 carries the loop-taker 123, which has a threaded shaft mounted in suitable bearings and engaging a tapped hole in a disk 129, which is reciprocated vertically on the standard from the main shaft 4, through the crank 5, connecting-rod 136, and pivoted lever 124 having a forked end embracing the grooved periphery of the disk. The needle-carrying cylinder 10 has pivoted within it, on the pintle-screws 8, the frame 7 within which the needle-bar is reciprocated from the shaft 4 through the slide 23 having a forked extension engaging a grooved ring 19 secured to a flanged ring 18 engaging, in turn, a grooved ring 16 secured to the needle-bar. The needle-bar is vibrated during part of the sewing operation, to form the depth stitches 208, Fig. 18, by a sliding cylinder 15 having cam-slots 14 engaging studs 12 carried by the needle frame 7. The cylinder 15 is reciprocated by a sliding bar having a forked extension engaging the groove 33, and an arm engaging a lever carried by a rock-shaft 44, which has also an arm 46, Fig. 8, having an adjustable pin 48 engaging a groove 49 on the arm 50 pivoted at 51 and rocked by a follower 54 tracking the cam-groove 55 on the shaft 4. After the depth stitches have been formed, the arm 46 is disengaged from the rocking arm 50, and the arm of the slide which actuates the cylinder 15 is held by an adjustable catch to hold the needle in the required position for making the circularlydisposed stitches 213, Fig. 18. The stitch-changing device comprises a disk 65 mounted on a pin 75 and driven through the gear-wheel 74 and pinion 73, in the ratio of 2 : 1, from the shaft 66, which is driven through the ratchet disk 70 from the eccentric 72 on the shaft 4. The periphery 77, Fig. 9, of the disk 65 is formed with a recess over half its length and comprising the straight transverse wall 78, straight circumferential wall 79, and inclined wall 81. A longitudinal shaft 56, Fig. 8, carries at one end an arm 60 connected by a link 61 with a lever 62, the tail of which rides over the periphery of the disk 65, and at the other end an arm 58. While the tail 84 of the lever is travelling from the point 82 to the point 78, the disk rotating in the direction of the arrow, the arms 46, 50 are held in driving-connexion by the spring 59 acting on the shaft 44, and the needle is vibrated to form the depth stitches. When the tail of the lever reaches the notch 78, it drops to the lower level, and the spring 64 pulls over the arm 60, rocks the shaft 56, and causes the arm 58 to move the shaft 44 endways, thus stopping the vibratory movement of the needle during the formation of the circular stitches. The tail of the lever 84 is connected to the body by a spring-piece 84<1>, which causes it to engage the outer periphery of the disk when it is moved outwards by the bell-crank lever 206 acted on by a collar 215 on the treadle-rod previous to setting the machine in motion. The thread take-up 164, Fig. 2, is secured to one end of a rock-shaft 167, the other end of which carries an arm with a follower tracking a groove 171 in the take-up cam 172 mounted on the shaft 4. The thread passes from the supply through a check 173, tension-disk 174, and leaders 175,165, to the hollow needle-bar and needle-eye. The cloth presser 139, Fig. 2, is integral with the presser-bar 140 and is held down by a spring and raised by a hand-lever pivoted to the head of the machine and acting on a lug on the presser-bar. To hold the cloth immediately about the spur rod, an auxiliary presserfoot 153 is provided, depending from a bracket 154 forming part of a ring 155 slidably mounted on the cylinder 10. A presser-bar sliding in the head of the machine has a forked end engaging the groove 162 in the ring 155, and is held down by a spring and raised at each step-by-step movement of the stitch-forming mechanism by a bell-crank lever actuated by a cam on the shaft 4. Stopping - gear. - Stop - motion mechanism of ordinary construction is controlled by a lever 85<1>, Figs. 8 and 13, which is operated against the action of a spring by a collar 91 on a treadle-rod 92, to set the machine in motion, and is held in this position by a spring-pressed pin 93, slidable in a boss in the machine standard, engaging over a camplate 101 carried by a bar 99 normally forced outwards by a spring 100. When the machine is at rest, the inner end of the pin lies in a recess 97, Fig. 9, in the stitch-changing cam-disk, the outer end being flush with the face of the standard. When the machine is started, the inner end of the pin rides over the incline 102, and the outer end is pushed outwards over the plate 101 and holds the stop-motion elements out of action until it drops again into the recess 97 at the end of the operation. The machine may be stopped at any intermediate stage by pressing the bar 99 inwards till the pin is clear of the plate 101.