Patent GB-190115274-A (GB)
Title: Improvements in Sewing Machines.
Inventor: IMRAY OLIVER
Filed: 1901-07-27
Granted: 1902-06-19
Abstract: 15,274. Imray, O., [Rowley, A. V.]. July 27. Buttonhole-sewing machines; cords, applying.-Relates especially to buttonhole - sewing machines, but is, in part, of more general application. The invention is described in connection with a machine which produces an eyed buttonhole, and in which the upper and lower needles are traversed over the stationary work, and comprises means for applying a strengthening thread to the edge of the buttonhole, means for cutting and clamping the thread, an improved presser-foot, and an improved knife for cutting the slit. The strengthening-thread is guided into position by a guide 3, Fig. 2, which is rotated with the needles by means of sector gearing 33, 31, and moves vertically in its socket 9 to an extent determined by the engagement of the pin 11 with a circular guide 12. The guide 12 is raised and lowered by the engagement of a screw 14 with a cam surface 18, 20, the screw 14 being carried over the cam surface by the movement of the arm 1 carrying the needles &c. The eye 4 of the guide 3 is thus caused to move close to the edge of the buttonhole, except when going round the eye, when it rises a little. In a modification, the vertical position of the eye 4 during the stitching is determined by the engagement of a projection on the guide 3 with a ridge on the presser-foot. Thread-cutters; thread-end holders. -The thread-cutter 120 and the thread clamp 130, Figs. 17, 18, and 21, are carried by a shaft 107, and each consists of a part fixed to the bracket 100, 110, and a part fixed to the pin 330 mounted in this bracket. The shaft 107 is raised by means of an incline 270 on the arm 1, and is locked in this raised position against the action of a spring 140 by a catch 200 which engages a slot in the shaft 107. The catch is released by a projection on the arm 1, and the shaft 107 is thus pulled down by the spring 140, and at the same time caused to turn by the engagement of a pin 108 with a helical slot in the socket 104 of the shaft 107. As the shaft 107 descends and turns, a pin 350 on an arm 340 of the pin 330 wipes over a pivoted plate 360, and the pin 330 is thus turned, against the action of a spring 390, so as to open the clamp and cutter. When the pin 350 slips under the plate 360, the clamp and cutter closes on the two sets of threads, i.e. those running to the needle and guide 3 and those running over the guide 6, Fig. 28. As the shaft 107 rises again, the pin 350 pushes back the plate 360, Fig. 21, and thus again reaches the front side of the plate ready for the next descent of the shaft 107. Presser-feet; knitted-fabric sewing-machines.-To facilitate sewing across folds, especially in the case of knitted fabrics, the main presser-foot c, Fig. 24, has pivoted to it at d an auxiliary narrow presserfoot g, which bears on the fabric close to the needle, and is made in two parts. The guide 3 is also fitted with a spring presser-foot 36, Fig. 6. Buttonholes, cutting.-The cutter i, Fig. 25, which is adapted to cut an eyed buttonhole, is fitted with a hook m, which removes the fabric from the eye when the cutter rises. The part n of the hook has a cutting-edge, which severs the discs of fabric as they are pushed up the hook, thus allowing them to be forced off the hook.