Patent GB-191304259-A (GB)
Title: Improvements in the Method of Making Boots and Shoes.
Inventor: WADE HAROLD
IPC: D05B85/06
Filed: 1913-02-19
Granted: 1914-04-20
Abstract: 4259. Wade, H., [United Shoe Machinery Co.]. Feb. 19. [Cognate Application, 12,994/13.] Boot-sole sewing-machines; wetting and turnshoe; stitches.-In the manufactureof turn-shoes and ordinary welted shoes, before the usual lasting tacks are removed, the upper and insole are united by unconnected groups of stitches 7, Fig. 5. A thread 10 secured at each end by being used to form a group of stitches 8 is passed around under the usual toe wire, and the toe wire is then removed. Accordingly, no metallic fasteners are present in the shoe when being welted, and the thread fasteners need not be removed when the welting operation is completed. The thread fastenings are each formed of two loops, the first of which is passed through the second and is pulled into the work, as shown in Fig. 6, when the thread of the second loop is tightened. Preferably a waxed thread is used. The machine for inserting the thread fasteners is caused to stop automatically after each revolution of its shaft. During that revolution, the shoe is clamped between a channel guide 54 and a back-rest 55, the needle is caused to penetrate the work twice, the needle being given a lateral movement before the second penetration, the first loop is passed through the second, the second loop is pulled tight and, unless manually prevented, a thread-cutter is operated to cut the thread from the second loop close to the work. Work guides and suppiorts.-The adjustably fixed channel guide 54 is formed with two feet 58, Fig. 26, which support the work close to the points at which it is pierced by the needle, and the back-rest 55 has a correspondingly elongated slot for the passage of the needle. The back-rest slide 59 is suspended by a pair of parallel links 60, 61, is moved to press on to the work by a spring 64, and is moved backwards to release the work at the completion of a thread fastener by a cam-lever 81. The back-rest is locked, while the thread fastener is being made, by means of a ratchet segment 68, integral with the link 61, and a detent 75 pivoted resiliently upon a cam-lever 70. Needles, driving; needles, vibrating. -The needle segment is pivoted upon a slide frame 36 which is supported on a pair ofguide bars 37, 38 and is moved laterally to position the needle for its second penetration by a cam acting upon a bowl 42 mounted on the back of the slide frame. The segment is linked to a lever 28 having an axial bore in its upper end in which slides a pin 30 fixed upon a spindle 31 mounted in the frame 36. The lever 28 is actuated, to drive the needle and yet leave it free to be moved laterally, by a cam-lever 27, a pin 42* on which has a sliding turning connexion with the lever 28. The needle-driving cam has two depressions of differing depths so that the needle is oscillated twice for each revolution of the shaft, and in the second oscillation the needle penetrates further through the work than in the first. Loop-stitching.-The looper 20 is carried by a frame 46, Fig. 20, sliding on guide rods 38, 47 and partakes of the lateral motion imparted to it by a cam engaging a cam-bowl 50 mounted upon the back of the frame. In the first reciprocation of the looper, owing to the shortness of the stroke of the needle, only a forwardlyprojecting finger 19 upon the looper engages with the needle thread, passing between the thread and the inner side of the curved needle, as shown in Fig. 10. In its second reciprocation, the looper, while still retaining the first loop upon its finger, is enabled by reason of the longer stroke of the needle to pass between the thread and needle as shown in Fig. 14. While the looper remains within the needle-thread loop, the needle is partly withdrawn and its thread binds upon the first loop and holds it so as to permit the looper to withdraw without it. In engaging the thread loops, the looper 20 passes close to the needle, and to prevent possible damage the looper is slidingly mounted in a socket 53, Fig. 26, and is pressed into working position by a spring 52. Governing needle thread; sewing-machine needles.-The thread is clamped on the supply side during the operation of the take-up 84 by a spring-held thread clamp 87, 88. The clamp is released by a cam-lever. A screw stop 94 determines the pressure applied to the thread by the clamp. The inner side of the needle is roughened so that, in the formation of the first thread loop, the short end of the thread is gripped between the work and the roughened surface of the needle, and the needle is caused to draw thread for the loop from supply. The channel guide 58 being fixed, fixes the side of the work on which the loops are made and also the movement of the needle in relation to it. Consequently, the needle itself pulls off thread from supply as needed in accordance with the thickness of the work. The take-up also, acting invariably with regard to the fixed surface of the work, always pulls the loops the same distance into the work. Thread - cutters.-A thread - cutter 100 is mounted at 104 on the back-rest, is held in the position shown by a spring 106 and is turned to cut the needle thread at the completion of a thread fastening by a cam-actuated rod 108, Fig. 20. The front end 115 of the rod 108 is bent sideways to bring it into contact with the cutter lever 105, and upon the rear part of the rod a toothed segment is fixed which engages with a rack on a treadle-actuated rod. Thus, when the cutter is to be held from operation, the treadle is depressed and the cam-actuated rod 108 rotated, and thereby the bent end 115 is lifted out of contact with the cutter lever. Stopping-gear, automatic.-The machine is driven through a clutch of a known type which disengages automatically after each revolution. It is put into operation by the depression of a bar 121 which is connected to the treadle-bar by the engagement of hook-pieces 124, 125. The hook-piece 124, secured to the treadle-bar is formed with an oblique surface 126 engaging a corresponding fixed lug, and, as the treadlebar is depressed, the hook-piece 124 is forced to one side and caused to release the bar 121 so that the disengagement of the clutch cannot be suspended.