Patent GB-471420-A (GB)
Title: Improvements in or relating to the production of circular knitted elastic fabric and to articles of wearing apparel
IPC: D04B9/46
Filed: 1936-03-02
Abstract: 471,420. Knitting belts, corselets, girdles, &c. SPENCER, Ltd., G., and SPENCER, G. H. March 2, 1936, Nos. 6289 and 11388. [Class 74 (ii)] [Also in Group VII] Belts, corselets, girdles, or like foundation garments, bathing costumes, and underwear, or fabrics knitted upon a circular machine and having elastic thread incorporated therein are provided with areas of restricted stretch by knitting the elastic thread into the fabric. Where restricted stretch is not desired, the elastic thread is incorporated in the fabric in relatively straight lengths. In the formation of a belt or girdle, narrow side panels d of restricted stretch may be provided extending the length of the garment, together with a rectangular area c at the back, and a front panel b may be of tapered or other shape. The fabric may be made upon a cylinder-and-dial rib machine, the elastic thread being knitted only by the cylinder needles where restricted stretch is required, while the straight lengths j<1> are held between the rib loops k and the plain loops l. In the form shown, there are twice as many knitted loops in the wales g<1> containing loops j2 of elastic thread as there are in the remaining plain wales g or the rib vales h. The additional loops m in the wales g<1> are formed of inelastic textile material. The parts S of the fabric not intended to have restricted stretch may have tuck stitches n in the plain wales, and tuck stitches o in the rib wales in alternate courses. Circular machines.-The elastic thread j may be supplied by a tubular guide 1 disposed obliquely of the needle circle and movable vertically from the inoperative position, shown in dotted lines, Fig. 3, to the full line, i.e. knitting position. The feeder 1 is secured to the forward end of an arm 8 which is controlled by a spring 16 which tends to force the feeder into knitting position. The arm 8 carries a plate 25 which is engaged and lifted by a stud upon a lever 10. The lever 10 is connected to the upper end of a push rod 11 having at its bottom end a lever 12 carrying a roller 13 engaging a cam ring 35. The roller 13 is spring-pressed into engagement with the ring 35, and the width of the gap G in the ring 35 determines the width of the area of restricted stretch fabric. A detent 39 normally engages a stop 41a on the rod 11 to prevent the roller 13 dropping into the gap G, and is actuated by an arm 43 rigidly secured to a shogging ring 44. The ring 44 is shogged by stops upon a pattern chain. To permit the rod to be lowered for forming the extremities of the areas d, i.e. when the portions u, u<1> above and below the front panel b is knitted, cams 124 are provided for tripping the catch 39. To enable the needles taking the elastic thread j to knit the stitch, cam 2 is movable downwards to a knitting position by spring-controlled cam-actuated connections similar to that employed for moving the thread guide 1. Tapered and other shaped areas such as b are obtained by providing means for varying the width of the gap G. Adjustable cam segments 35<1>, Fig. 12, are carried by arms 105 and are controlled by a cam 99 rotated by pawl 106 and ratchet wheel 100. The pawl 106 is actuated by connections from a rod controlled by a pattern chain, and extending between the machine bed plate 23 and the ring 33 which supports the cam ring 35. Specification 463,047 is referred to.