Patent GB-191319294-A (GB)
Title: Improvements in Ruffling and Stitching Machines.
Inventor: FAIRWEATHER WALLACE
IPC: D05B29/06
Filed: 1913-08-26
Granted: 1914-07-23
Abstract: 19,294. Fairweather, W., [Singer Manufacturing [Co.]. Aug. 26. Ruffling - machines.- Relates to machines for folding the edges of, and ruffling and stitching bands upon, the bottoms of skirts and like articles, and consists in adjusting the coacting parts to assist in the handling of the work and to facilitate disengagement of certain parts near the completion of a seam to permit this to be finished at the starting-point. The invention is described as embodied in a Singer double-chain stitch machine having a pair of needles 6 at an angle to the line of feed, the base of the presser-foot 10 being pivoted to the shank mounted on the bar 14, the upper end of which is depressed by the adjustable pressure of a plate spring. The upturned portion 19 of the foot has a tape-guiding channel 20. A ruffler rock-shaft 30 is driven from the main-shaft, and actuates through links 34, 36, 38 a rock-shaft 40 carrying a depending arm 41 having a channel 42 entered by the head of a coupling-pin 44. A loose bushing thereon enters an aperture in a slideblock 47 in the slideway 48 of a ruffling-lever 49 hung on a pivoted arm 51 connected at its end to the presser-bar 14. The ways 42, 48 are parallel so that the lever assumes its most advanced position at the same point, in any adjusted position. The ruffling-blade 64 is adjustably carried on an arm 59 pivoted on the arm 49 which is adapted to be clamped to the arm 41, through the coupling-pin 44, by a lever 70. A spring 75<Î> surrounding a threaded rod 75 passing loosely through an ear 76 and then passing through a threaded slide-block 77 on the arm 49, depresses the arm 59. A separator plate 94 disposed beneath the blade 64 and having its forward edge notched and serrated and its upper face grooved longitudinally to receive the serrations of the plate 64, is carried on a lateral arm 91 on a plate 88 adjustably mounted on a wing 86 at the lower end of a slide-rod 85 having bearings in collars 81, 82 on the presser-bar. The upper edge-folder 98 is also adjustably carried on the arm 91. A spring 105 surrounding the rod 85 presses upwards a collar 100 carrying a latch 102 which normally enters a groove 104 behind a cam-lug 103 on the collar 102. The collar 100 may be depressed by a finger-piece 106 to permit the rod 85 to be turned to move the plate 94 and the folder 98 to inoperative position. A step-finger 110 on an adjustable arm 109 engages the latch 102 so that when the presser-foot is raised the upward movement of the plate 94 will be checked when the latch 102 and the finger 110 contact. A finger 113 on a rod 112 extends beneath the arm 59 to lift it with the rise of the presser-foot, brought about by the lifting - lever 121 or treadleactuated lever 128. The under fabric is guided on an edge' guide 114 on the work-plate. The position of the pin 44 and the corresponding stroke of the blade 64 are shown by graduations 123 over which works a pointer 124 formed on an extension of a washer surrounding the pin. The differential lifting of the separator plate and the ruffling-blade on the rising of the presser-foot affords intervening spaces for the insertion of the fabrics. When the sewing has almost returned to the starting-point on a circular article, the presser-foot is raised and the piece 106 depressed to allow the rod 85 to be turned. The lower fabric is then disengaged from the guide 114, the presser-foot is lowered, and the seam completed. On turning the finger-piece 106 back, the latch 102 rides down the cam 103 and returns to the initial position.