Patent GB-190225749-A (GB)
Title: Improvements in and relating to the Manufacture of Pattern Cards and Fabrics, and to Apparatus therefor.
Inventor: HANDWERCK CURT
Filed: 1902-11-22
Granted: 1903-11-12
Abstract: 25,749. Handwerck, C. Nov. 22. Embroidery.-Relates to methods of and apparatus, electrically or mechanically controlled, for manufacturing pattern cards and fabrics by using patterns containing the figures but not the bindings, in conjunction with patterns for the bindings. The cards may be used in producing embroidered fabrics. The means for releasing the stamps or punches of the card-punching machine, or the lifting-wires of the jacquard of a loom, may be actuated by means of electromagnets whose circuits are made, in accordance with the requirements of the cards or fabrics to be manufactured, by means of contact-pieces moving over the several patterns, acting separately and collectively to effect the required selection of punches, or threads. In the case of fabrics in which there are different kinds of binding, e.g., satin and plain, in different parts of the figure, a modified method is employed, there being a mainpattern for the figure or part of the figure, connected directly to the electromagnets, and an auxiliary narrower pattern for the figure connected to the magnets indirectly through a binding pattern for the binding of the ground warp below the figure ; a single pattern is used for the ground, and may be connected indirectly to the magnets through two binding-patterns for the ground warp below and outside the figure respectively. In order to prevent parts of the fabric lying along the outlines of the figure from being uneven, in consequence of uncovered or conducting parts of the ground and figure patterns being in contact with their electric contact - pieces simultaneously, a second series of electromagnetic circuits is used for interrupting the current through one pattern before the other pattern becomes operative. This prevents two weft threads from lying over the same warp thread at the part of the fabric along the outlines of the figure. Fig. 11 represents a card-punching machine for use in carrying out the invention. The cards M to be punched are mounted on a hexagonal drum J<3> carrying a series of perforated plates J. The drum is reciprocated horizontally in front of a series of punches p, which pass through punch-plates p<1> and carry oscillatory members q<11>. In front of the members is a pressing-plate H provided with pins m', and reciprocated in guide-ways H<1>, H<2>, by means of an eccentric H<3> set at an angle of 180<o> to the crank actuating the drum. The members q<11> are normally held in the operative position by cords n‹ and lifting hooks, whose upper hooked ends engage with pivoted armature levers h<2> controlled by electromagnets E<2>. When one of these magnets is excited, its corresponding lifting-hook and member q<11> are allowed to fall. After the punches have made a stroke the fallen lifting- hooks are raised by a board, actuated by cams c<4>, c<5>. The pattern M<2> for the figure and ground, and the patterns B<2> for the bindings are mounted on a framing A', Fig. 12, connected to the frame A by rods A<2>, Fig. 11. Each pattern M<2> comprises a series of parallel strips s, of unequal length, insulated from each other and mounted on a frame s<11> resting on pivoted levers 2. There is a contact spring a for each strip. The pattern is drawn on the lower surfaces of the strips with insulating varnish, and contact is made intermittently therewith by means of a vertically-movable contactpiece 7<11>, carried by bars 8, which are supported in a frame 14 receiving a step-by-step motion from a shaft 20. The patterns B' are perforated cards mounted on prisms 44 having metallic coverings 45 and carried by vertically-reciprocating rods 48. Double contact-springs b, with their free ends insulated from each other, make contact through the apertures in the cards with the covering 45. The magnets E and contact-springs a, b are included in the same electric circuits. In another form of apparatus, of which several modifications are described, there is an electromagnetic switch for each point of the design with contacts respectively connected to the binding patterns of the ground and figure, so that when actuated one way or the other, in accordance with the position of the corresponding point in the figure or the ground, it switches one or other binding pattern into the circuit, which includes the magnets for releasing the stamps, punches, or lifting wires. The numbers of the electromagnets employed for releasing the stamps, punches, or lifting-wires may be reduced by using movable magnets each of which serves for a group, or series of groups of releasing- devices. Gards and fabrics may also be manufactured by the use of a hand-operated machine, the electric circuits being closed by means of a contact-piece moved by hand over fixed contactpieces, above which are adjustable pointers haviug their ends against a serrated rule moved weft-line by weft-line over a drawing of the pattern to be produced. A machine of the same type as a loom with simples mayalso be employed, the lashing-cords being selected in accordance with the requirements of the pattern, and then drawn forward, and, as the lashing proceeds, held by pins on rings mounted adjustably on movable bars. In another type of machine for manufacturing cards and fabrics, the stamps or punches, or lifting-wires, are connected by cords to jacquards for controlling the binding, so that if the cords are not released no movements of the corresponding punches &c. can take place, and even when released the punches &c. can move only if permitted to do so by perforated sliding plates which are controlled by adjustable slides actuated in accordance with the requirements of the pattern of the card or fabric. In a further modification, the punches or lifting- wires are controlled with a view to introducing several bindings, by means of a jacquard having three card cylinders or prisms, each of which carries two chains of cards, the six chains being brought together and passed between two perforated plates. One of these plates serves as a pressing plate for forcing the cards against a series of needles passing through the perforations of the other plate.