Patent GB-594753-A (GB)
Title: Improvements in or relating to machines for attaching welts to shoes
IPC: A43D63/00
Filed: 1945-07-02
Abstract: 594,753. Sewing-machines. BRITISH UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CO., Ltd. (United Shoe Machinery Corporation). July 2, 1945, No. 16732. [Class 112] In a machine for attaching a welt to a shoe, the welt is cut at a point between the welt guide and the attaching means, preferably where the welt is in contact with the shoe; the welt is preferably completely severed, and the attaching is continued after the severing to secure the cut end. The embodiment described forms part of a machine for sewing a welt all round a veldtschoen, the ends of fhe welt being bevelled to form a scarfed joint and the seam being continued to a point just beyond the joint ; the welt-end left in the machine is automatically fed forward when the machine stops so that it is in position to be clamped by the work-holding devices for starting the seam on a new shoe. Welt-guides ; welt-cutting.-The machine desscribed is similar to that of Specification 532,026, in which the work is held and fed by a presserfoot 28, Fig. 2, and work-support 26; a welt-guide 30 provided on the work-support also guides the thin welt-cutting knife 32, Fig. 5, which lies parallel to the welt 8. The knife is projected, to cut the welt where it bends to lie against the shoe, by a crank 36 connected by a link 42, with retracting spring, to a.yoke member 50, Fig. 2, mounted on a shaft 52 ; pivoted to the yoke at 56 is an arm 54 which can be swung towards and away from a cam 58, being normally held clear of the cam, against a spring, by latch mechanism 64 released by hand or by a cable 68 from the stopping-gear. When the latch is released the arm 54 swings towards the cam to be engaged by a projection 60 thereon to rock the yoke and thus actuate the knife, an inclined face 70 on the cam then returning the arm to its normal position. The end of the, welt 8 is fed forward for starting a new shoe by a clamp 144, 152, Fig. 5, slidable on a welt-guide bracket 140 and actuated by a cable 134 from another part of the stopping-gear. Starting and stopping gear is as described in Specification 24331/12, [Class 112], a lowspeed clutch being engaged, on release of the treadle, by a lever 80, Fig. 2, which normally oscillates freely under the action of a cam track in a sleeve carrying one member of the clutch and which is locked by a spring-raised detent 82 to cause engagement of the clutch ; the detent 82 slides in a horizontal spring-pressed carrier 84. 'Means are provided to delay the stopping of the machine until two stitches have been formed after severance of the welt so that the welt end is properly stitched down ; for this purpose a collar 108 on the detent 82 carries a pivoted arm 104, spring-biassed to the left. When first released, the end of the arm 104 engages under the lever 80 to prevent appreciable movement of the detent; on movement of the lever 80 to the left, the arm 104 is freed to rise slightly, until a lug on the arm engages a nose 102 on the detent-carrier 84, and the return movement of the lever 80 carries the arm to the right, still holding it down by engaging a notch in its corner, to actuate an arm 116 connected to the cable 68, thus initiating the cutting of the welt. A second movement of the lever 80 to the left frees the arm 104 and on return of the lever 80 the detent snaps into a recess in it to engage the low-speed clutch ; one stitch is formed during the last oscillation of the lever 80 and a second one during the stopping of the machine. The stopping-gear actuates the presser-unlocking link 126 and presser-lifting link 132, as described in Specification 532,026, and the arm 122 actuating the former also, after some lost motion, engages a collar 154 on the cable 134 connected to the welt-clamp which feeds the welt end forward ready to start on a new shoe; the welt-clamp is withdrawn during starting of the new seam, after the welt-end has been clamped to the work by the presser-foot.