Abstract:
A hair conditioner is provided having a stable pearlescent effect which is achieved in the absence of nacreous or synthetic pearlescing agents. In addition to the usual substances for controlling pH, for conditioning, for emulsifying, and for preserving, this hair conditioner also includes two conditioning agents which together serve to produce a pearlescent effect that remains stable and does not settle. These agents are preferably stearamidopropyl dimethyl benzylammonium chloride and stearyl dimethyl benzylammonium chloride in the ratios of about 2.5 to about 7.5% and about 2 to about 5%, by weight, respectively, together with about 0.25% to about 0.75% by weight of sodium chloride.

Description:
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
     There are various nacreous and synthetic pigments which can impart an appearance of &#34;pearlescence&#34; or shimmery luster to cosmetic products. However, incorporation of these components in hair conditioning vehicles presents formulation difficulties. Specifically, the pearlescent effect often is only short-lived, and the materials settle out of the vehicle. 
     Accordingly, it is the purpose of the present invention to disclose hair conditioning formulations which contain cosmetically stable materials producing pearlescent effects. The system disclosed allows for the formulation of pearlescene without the settling normally observed; and the pearlescent effect is achieved in the absence of conventional pearlescing agents. 
     The hair conditioning compositions revealed are capable of providing not only a pearlized appearance, while at the same time rendering superior conditioning properties to the hair. The essential feature of these conditioning components is their ability to provide body, manageability, and detangling properties without displaying the greasiness, coating or gumminess normally associated with conventional conditioners. This causes the hair to retain its degree of cleanliness over a longer period of time. 
     The present formulations have been found cosmetically acceptable through an accelerated aging period of 3 months at 110° F., equivalent to an acceptable shelf-life expectancy. Furthermore, &#34;beauty lab half-head tests&#34; have indicated good response with regard to body, manageability, and detangling, as well as a lack of greasiness normally associated with hair conditioners. 
     DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION 
     The hair conditioner of this invention includes compounds to maintain the pH between 3.0 and 4.0, to provide emolliency and lubricity, to provide texture and shine, to provide for emulsification and proper viscosity to give anti-static qualities, and to act as preservatives. Various known compounds may be used for these purposes. The pearlescence, however, is not provided for by the addition of synthetic pearlescent materials which can settle, but by use of conditioning agents that, acting together, serve to create a stable pearlescent effect with a good shelf life. 
     Compositions of the present invention may contain by weight (a) from 2 to 5% of stearyl dimethyl benzylammonium chloride, and (b) 2.5 to 7.5% of a fatty dimethyl benzylammonium chloride in combination with (c) 0.40% to 0.75% of an ethylene diamine containing short-chain alkyl and long-chain alkoyl groups and (d) 0.25% to 0.75% sodium chloride, and (e) 0.30% to 1.5% of an emulsifying wax. Preferably, the four components are present at ratios of 3% stearyl dimethyl benzylammonium chloride, 5% of fatty dimethyl benzylammonium chloride, 0.60% of the ethylene diamine derivative, 0.5% sodium chloride, and, 1% of emulsifying wax. Furthermore, the preferred components are respectively: 3% of stearyl dimethyl benzylammonium chloride, 5% of stearamidopropyl dimethyl benzylammonium chloride, 0.60% of stearamidoethyl diethylamine and 1% of a primary emulsifier such as a Polawax, other conditioners, preservatives against microorganisms and perfume may be added. 
     The pearlescent effect appears to be created by an interaction of the following materials: stearamidopropyl dimethyl benzylammonium chloride, stearyl dimethyl benzylammonium chloride, and sodium chloride, in deionized water. The proportions of these compounds are preferably 5.00%, 3.00%, and 0.50%, by weight, respectively. The pearlescent effect can be obtained with use of other chlorides, as long as the quantity used is sufficient to provide a minimum viscosity of 3,000 centipoises. 
     A typical pearlescent hair conditioning composition illustrative of this invention is given in the following example. 
    
    
     EXAMPLE I 
     
         ______________________________________ Constituent            Weight Percent______________________________________Deionized Water         77.05Citric Acid             0.45Stearamidoethyl diethylamine                   0.60Propyl P-Hydroxybenzoate                   0.10Methyl P-Hydroxybenzoate                   0.20Stearamidopropyl dimethyl benzylammonium                   5.00chlorideStearyl dimethyl benzylammonium chloride                   3.00Cetyl/stearyl alcohol ethoxylate                   0.75Polyethylene glycol ether of cetearyl alcohol                   0.75Emulsifying Wax         1.00Neutral Henna Extract   10.001-(3-chloroallyl)-3,5,7-triaza-1-azoniaadamantane chloride                   0.101,3-dimethylol-5,5-dimethyl hydantoin                   0.25Sodium Chloride         0.50Perfume                 0.25______________________________________ 
    
     This hair conditioner of Example I is made as follows (trade names, defined below, are used for simplicity): 
     Add deionized water to a proper vessel and begin heating. Then add citric acid and allow to mix. Then add chemical base 6532 and methyl paraben and propyl paraben and stir until completely dissolved. When temperature reaches 60°-80° C., add Richquat 150 and continue stirring. Then add Ammonyx 4 and Lipocol SC-4 and stir until batch is uniform. Then add Siponic E-3, and stir until batch is uniform. At this stage, product may turn opaque. Maintain temperature at 60°-80° C. and add Polawax, and stir for about 10 minutes. At this stage, product is opaque. Then add Neutral Henna Extract and allow the batch to mix 15 minutes before beginning to cool. Then begin cooling slowly until the temperature reaches 50° C. At 50° C., add preservatives with mixing. Then add sodium chloride and mix until completely dissolved. Cool batch slowly with continuous stirring until temperature reaches 40° C. Then add fragrance and allow to stir for an additional 10-15 minutes. Pearlescence appears at 35°-40° C. 
     Other examples are: 
     EXAMPLE II 
     
         ______________________________________ Constituent            Weight Percent______________________________________Deionized Water         78.15Citric Acid             0.45Stearamidoethyl diethylamine                   0.60Propyl P-Hydroxybenzoate                   0.10Methyl P-Hydroxybenzoate                   0.20Stearamidopropyl dimethyl benzylammonium                   5.00chlorideStearyl dimethyl benzylammonium chloride                   3.00Polyethylene Glycol Ether of Cetyl Alcohol                   0.75Emulsifying Wax         1.00Neutral Henna Extract   10.001-(3-chloroallyl)-3,5,7-triaza-1-azoniaadamantane chloride                   0.20Sodium Chloride         0.30Perfume                 0.25______________________________________ 
    
     EXAMPLE III 
     
         ______________________________________ Constituent            Weight Percent______________________________________Deionized Water         76.55Citric Acid             0.45Stearamidoethyl Diethylamine                   0.60Propyl P-Hydroxybenzoate                   0.10Methyl P-Hydroxybenzoate                   0.20Stearamidopropyl Dimethyl Benzylammonium                   5.00ChlorideStearyl Dimethyl Benzylammonium Chloride                   3.00Cetyl/Stearyl Alcohol Ethoxylate                   0.75Polyethylene Glycol Ether of Cetearl                   0.75AlcoholEmulsifying Wax         1.50Neutral Henna Extract   10.00Imidazolidinyl Urea     0.101,3-Dimethylol-5,5-Dimethyl Hydantoin                   0.25Sodium Chloride         0.50Perfume                 0.25______________________________________ 
    
     EXAMPLE IV 
     
         ______________________________________ Constituent            Weight Percent______________________________________Deionized Water         78.05Citric Acid             0.45Stearamidoethyl diethylamine                   0.60Propyl P-Hydroxybenzoate                   0.10Methyl P-Hydroxybenzoate                   0.20Stearamidopropyl Dimethyl Benzylammonium                   2.50ChlorideStearyl Dimethyl Benzylammonium Chloride                   5.00Cetyl/Stearyl Alcohol Ethoxylate                   0.75Polyethylene Glycol Ether of Cetearyl                   0.75AlcoholEmulsifying Wax         0.50Neutral Henna Extract   10.001-(3-Chloroallyl)-3,5,7-triaza-1-azoniaadamantane Chloride                   0.101,3-Dimethylol-5,5-Dimethyl Hydantoin                   0.25Sodium Chloride         0.50Perfume                 0.25______________________________________ 
    
     EXAMPLE V 
     
         ______________________________________ Constituent            Weight Percent______________________________________Deionized Water         76.05Citric Acid             0.45Stearamidoethyl Diethylamine                   0.60Propyl P-Hydroxybenzoate                   0.10Methyl P-Hydroxybenzoate                   0.20Stearamidopropyl Dimethyl Benzylammonium                   7.50ChlorideStearyl Dimethyl Benzylammonium Chloride                   2.00Cetyl/Stearyl Alcohol Ethoxylate                   0.75Polyethylene Glycol Ether of Cetearyl                   0.75AlcoholEmulsifying Wax         0.50Neutral Henna Extract   10.001-(3-Chloroallyl)-3,5,7-Triaza-1-Azoniaadamantane Chloride                   0.101,3-Dimethylol-5,5-Dimethyl Hydantoin                   0.25Sodium Chloride         0.50Perfume                 0.25______________________________________ 
    
     The conditioners of Examples II through V are prepared in a manner similar to that of Example I. 
     Satisfactory pearlescence is obtained if the following constituents are kept within the following approximate ranges: 
     
         ______________________________________ Stearamidopropyl dimethyl             2.50% to 7.50%benzylammonium chlorideStearyl dimethyl benzyl-             2.00% to 5.00%ammonium chlorideSodium chloride   0.25% to 0.75%______________________________________ 
    
     and preferably, though not necessarily, stearamidoethyl diethylamine is used in the range between about 0.40% and about 0.75%. Other constituents may vary as dictated by normal skill in the hair conditioning art. 
     Various of the above chemicals are available commercially under trade names of particular companies. These are given in the following table: 
     
         ______________________________________Trade Name        Chemical Name______________________________________Ammonyx 4 (Onyx)  Stearyl dimethyl benzyl-             ammonium chlorideBRIJ 52 (ICI)     Polyethylene glycol ether of             cetyl alcoholChemical Base 6532 (Sandoz)             Stearamidoethyl diethylamineDMDM Hydantoin (Glyco)             1,3-dimethylol-5,5-dimethyl             hydantoinDowicil 200 (DOW) 1-(3-chloroallyl)-3,5,7-triaza-1-             azoniaadamantane chlorideGermall 115 (Sutton Labs)             Imidazolidinyl ureaLipocol SC-4 (Lipo Chemicals)             Cetyl/Stearyl alcohol             ethoxylateMethyl Paraben (Mallinckrodt)             Methyl P-hydroxybenzoatePolawax (Croda, Inc.)             Emulsifying waxPropyl Paraben (Mallinckrodt)             Propyl P-hydroxybenzoateRichquat 150 (Richardson)             Stearamidopropyl dimethyl             benzyl ammonium chlorideSiponic E-3 (Alcolac Chemical)             Polyethylene glycol ether of             cetearyl alcohol______________________________________ 
    
     It should be noted that pH is controlled by the amount of citric acid; that conditioning effects are provided by stearamidoethyl diethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethyl benzylammonium chloride, stearyl dimethyl benzylammonium chloride and neutral henna extract; that cetyl/stearyl alcohol ethoxylate, polyethylene glycol ether of cetearyl alcohol and emulsifying wax are used as emulsifiers; that sodium chloride can serve to control viscosity; and that propyl p-hydroxybenzoate, methy p-hydroxybenzoate, 1-(3-chloroallyl)-3,5,7-triaza-1-azoniaadamantane chloride, 1,3-dimethylol-5,5-dimethyl hydantoin, and imidazolidinyl urea serve as preservatives against microorganisms. 
     Conditioning ingredients which may be used in place of stearamidoethyl diethylamine are: 
     Diethylaminoethyl Stearamide 
     Diethylaminopropyl Stearamide 
     Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine 
     Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate. 
     Acids which may be used in place of citric acid include: 
     Lactic Acid 
     Tartaric Acid 
     Gluconic Acid 
     Acetic Acid 
     Hydrochloric Acid 
     Phosphoric Acid. 
     In this respect, note that the quantity of acid used should be such as to keep the pH between about 3.0 and about 4.0. 
     There are various other emulsifiers commercially available which may be substituted for the emulsifiers used in the above formulations. Note, however, that the use of Polawax as the primary emulsifier in the present formulations, serves to enhance the pearlescent effect. 
     Note with respect to the hair conditioners of this invention that there are certain particular features of value: 
     (a) Formation of a &#34;pearlized effect&#34; in-situ by the interaction of Richquat 150, Ammonyx 4 and sodium chloride. Incorporation of conventional pearlescent agents is no longer required. 
     (b) In-situ interaction allows for the ultimate stabilization of the pearlized look through an acceptable shelf-life expectancy. Severe settling problems are no longer observed, and we have been able to achieve hair conditioning formulations which contain cosmetically stable pearlescent effects. 
     (c) The hair conditioning compositions also, as discussed, render superior conditioning properties to the hair. 
     The system of this invention provides in-situ pearlescence in a cationic conditioning system and allows for the formation of pearlescence in the absence of conventional pearlescing agents. The pearlized effect is formed in-situ by the interaction of Richquat 150, Ammonyx 4 and sodium chloride. It may be enhanced by the presence of Polawax. 
     In summary, this invention discloses hair conditioning formulations which allow the in-situ formation of a stable pearlized appearance. The invention reveals the inclusion of specified components as critical to this achievement. Furthermore, the compositions simultaneously render superior conditioning properties to the hair, including body, manageability, and detangling without the simultaneous greasiness normally observed with hair conditioners.