Abstract:
An apparatus and method are provided for converting a roll of material into various products such as curtains, draperies, valances, or the like. Specifically, the apparatus includes a roll let off for supporting and feeding a roll of material or cloth. After the let off, the edges of the cloth are cut if desired and are engaged by a pair of edge folding and positioning stations for forming vertically folded edges. The folded edges are then converted into hems and sewn into the material by a pair of corresponding hem sewing heads and cloth advancers. Once vertical hems are formed in the cloth, the cloth is cut to predetermined lengths and if desired, folded in a predetermined pattern. The folded pattern can then be transported to a sewing station for further sewing the material into a desired product.

Description:
This application is a continuation of Ser. No. 08/747,549 filing date Nov. 12, 1996, now U.S. Pat. No. 5,775,191, which is a continuation of Ser. No. 250,797 filing date May 27, 1994, now U.S. Pat. No. 5,572,940. 
    
    
     BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
     This invention relates to a method and apparatus for producing finished sewn products from a roll of cloth. More particularly, the method and apparatus pertains to cutting predetermined lengths of fabric from a large roll of fabric and then performing various sewing operations on the fabric to produce articles such as lined drapes, sheets, valances, etc. 
     Heretofore, one of the major expenses in producing valances was cutting lengths of fabric to precise lengths and then sewing folded hems on the edge of the fabric prior to performing additional sewing operations. Such has been time consuming and labor intensive adding considerable cost to the finished products. 
     OBJECTS AND SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
     It is a principal object of the present invention to provide a method and apparatus for efficiently cutting fabric into predetermined lengths and automatically performing sewing operations thereon. 
     Another important object of the present invention is to provide a method and apparatus for automatically cutting fabric from a large roll and then automatically folding the edges of the fabric. The folded edges are then sewn into hems, and the fabric is transported to a folding station. After the fabric has been folded at the folding station, it is then transported to another sewing station for performing sewing operations thereon. 
     Still another important object of the present invention is to provide an efficient and automatic system for folding and sewing sheet material. 
     Still another important object of the present invention is to provide an efficient method and apparatus for automatically producing sewn valances from a roll of cloth. 
     Still another important object of the present invention is to provide an apparatus and method for automatically producing hemmed fabric for subsequent manufacture into drapes and the like. 
     Still another important object of the present invention is to provide a method and apparatus for cutting fabric in predetermined lengths, folding the edges of the fabric to produce precise hems and then transporting said fabric to a receiver. 
     A further object of the present invention is to provide a method and apparatus for precisely folding fabric of a predetermined length into a desired folded pattern for subsequent sewing. 
     Still another important object of the invention is to provide a method and apparatus for automatically sewing sockets and pockets into a folded fabric to produce valances. 
     Additional objects of the invention will be set forth in part in the description which follows, and in part will be obvious from the description, or may be learned by practice of the invention. The objects and advantages of the invention may be realized and attained by means of the instrumentalities and combinations particularly pointed out in the appended claims. 
     To achieve the objects and in accordance with the purpose of the invention, as embodied and broadly described herein, the apparatus of the present invention comprises a let off device which carries a large roll of fabric that is to be used for producing the finished product. The fabric is unwound by the let off device which is under the control of a dancer so as to maintain uniform tension in the fabric as it leaves the let off device. The open fabric then passes under a pair of spaced edge cutters which trim opposed edges of the fabric to a predetermined width. 
     After the fabric has been trimmed, the edges of the fabric are folded in by a hem forming and hem width control device. The folded edge of the fabric is maintained at a precise location by means of a photoelectric sensor and a hem shifting device. The photoelectric sensor includes a pair of laterally spaced photosensors which generate signals indicating when the edge of the fabric is at the precise location in between the two photodetectors. The photodetectors in turn control the hem shifting device to keep the edge of the hem properly aligned. After the hem has been folded onto the edges of the open cloth, the hem then passes through a curling device which curls the outer edge of the hem under so as to produce a double layer hem. This curl portion is then passed under a sewing head which advances the cloth and sews the hem into the edges of the fabric. The fabric is then fed into an accumulator which accumulates a predetermined length of fabric. 
     Following the accumulator is a length cutter which makes a transverse cut across the fabric to cut the fabric into predetermined lengths. 
     In order to cut the fabric into predetermined lengths, a cloth puller moves from the downstream end of the machine to adjacent the cutting head for gripping the edge of the fabric in order to pull the fabric from the accumulator when the cloth puller is moved back towards the downstream end of the machine. After the cloth puller pulls the cloth back towards the end of the machine, a predetermined length of cloth rests on a folding table and is ready for being folded into a desired pattern. In one particular embodiment, the apparatus is used for making valances. At the folding table it is desired to fold the open fabric so that it can be subsequently sewed with elongated stitching to produce the final product. 
     In order to fold the open length of fabric on the folding table, a pair of spaced dies are lowered down on top of the fabric. The dies are spaced a distance that corresponds to the ultimate width of the valance. 
     Once the dies are lowered onto the fabric carried on the folding table, the cloth puller which is still gripping the leading edge of the fabric is moved back towards the front end of the machine, folding the fabric over a first die. It then releases the leading edge of the cloth and moves back adjacent the end of the machine. The trailing edge of the cut cloth is then folded up over the second die and overlaps the edge of the cloth that was previously folded. 
     The cloth in this folded position is then transported to a sewing station wherein two sewing heads are provided for sewing a pair of elongated spaced stitching so as to form a socket in the folded fabric for receiving a curtain rod as well as a pocket in the fabric. This completes the construction of the valance. 
     The apparatus and machine can also be used for producing lined draperies. When being used to produce lined draperies, a second roll of fabric is carried on a second let off above the first let off which carries the facing layer of fabric. The fabrics are superimposed on each other under uniform tension. The superimposed liner and facing are then passed through the cutting and hem forming device as described above. The cloth puller is used for pulling the sewn liner and facing from an accumulator so that they can be cut to a desired length. 
     The folding operation discussed above takes place in a similar but wider spaced configuration when producing lined draperies. 
     The accompanying drawings, which are incorporated in and constitute a part of this specification, illustrate the embodiments of the invention and together with the description, serve to explain the principle of the invention. 
     It is to be understood that the invention is made up of a plurality of various elements. It is understood of course that equivalent components could be substituted for the elements shown in the drawings and described hereto in the specification without departing from the spirit or scope of the present invention. 
    
    
     BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS 
     FIG. 1 is a side elevational view illustrating a portion of a machine constructed in accordance with the present invention. 
     FIG. 2 is an enlarged perspective view illustrating a cutting head used for cutting the edge of a fabric. 
     FIG. 3 is an enlarged perspective view illustrating an edge folding and positioning device. 
     FIG. 4 is an end view of the edge aligning and locating device. 
     FIG. 5 is an elevational view illustrating one of the sewing machines used for sewing the hem on one side of the fabric. 
     FIG. 6 is a sectional view illustrating the curl and double folded hem produced on the edge of the fabric. 
     FIG. 7 is an elevational view illustrating a sewing head positioned on the opposite side of the fabric from the sewing head of FIG.  5 . 
     FIG. 8 is an enlarged perspective view illustrating one of the sewing heads used for sewing the hems into the fabric. 
     FIG. 9 is a perspective view illustrating another embodiment of the sewing head of FIG.  8 . 
     FIG. 10 is a perspective view of a movable cutter which is used for cutting the cloth into predetermined lengths. 
     FIG. 11 is an enlarged perspective view illustrating the cutter head from part of the cutter of FIG.  10 . 
     FIG. 12 is a cross-sectional view of a movable gripping head carried on the cloth puller shown in more detail in FIG.  21 . 
     FIG. 13 is an end view partially in section illustrating a portion of the folding table and the cloth pulling mechanism. 
     FIG. 14 is an end view illustrating the cloth pulling mechanism in a position immediately prior to gripping the end of the cloth. 
     FIG. 15 is an end view partially in section of the cloth pulling mechanism gripping the cloth. 
     FIG. 16 is an end view of the cloth pulling mechanism after the cloth has been pulled back over the folding table. 
     FIG. 17 is an end view of the cloth pulling mechanism and the folding table showing the dies being placed down on the cloth. 
     FIG. 18 is an end view illustrating the folding table and the first fold of the fabric forming a folded valance. 
     FIG. 19 is an end view illustrating a folding table illustrating the trailing edge of the fabric being folded into a valance. 
     FIG. 20 illustrates an end view of the folding table showing the fabric in a folded condition immediately prior to being transported to a sewing mechanism. 
     FIG. 21 is an enlarged fragmentary perspective view illustrating a portion of the cloth pulling device. 
     FIG. 22 is an enlarged perspective view illustrating a pair of dies used for holding the cloth down on the folding table during the folding operation. 
     FIG. 23 is a cross-sectional view illustrating a gripping device for gripping and retaining the cloth prior to the cloth being cut into predetermined lengths. 
     FIG. 24 is an enlarged perspective view illustrating the folded cloth on the folding table prior to sewing. 
     FIG. 25 is a fragmentary perspective view illustrating part of the cloth processing apparatus. 
     FIG. 26 is a plan view illustrating a final sewing station for sewing valances. 
     FIG. 27 is a perspective view illustrating a valance that was sewn automatically on the apparatus of the present invention. 
     FIG. 28 is a perspective view with parts broken away for the purpose of clarity illustrating a sewn valance. 
     Repeat use of reference characters in the present specification and drawings is intended to represent same or analogous features or elements of the invention. 
    
    
     DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS 
     Referring in more detail to the drawings, FIG. 1 is a side elevational view of the machine which is provided for hemming and cutting predetermined lengths of material from a large roll of material  10 . The large roll of material  10  is carried on a let off A. The let off A includes a pair of idle rollers  14  and  16  which permit the roll  10  of cloth to be rotated when it is pulled by a power driven roll  18  which has a friction covering thereon. The power driven roll  18  is driven by an electric motor  20 . The motor is a variable speed driven motor which is under control of a dancer roll  22 . The dancer roll  22  is permitted to move up and down responsive to variations in tension in the cloth extending therearound. As the dancer roll  22  moves up and down, it varies the adjustment on a potentiometer that in turn varies the voltage applied to the motor drive board for varying the let off speed for the cloth. The cloth  24  is then fed from the let off A up over a guide roll  26  onto a sewing table  28 . As the cloth enters the sewing table, it first passes through an edge cutting device B. There are two edge cutters B spaced on opposite sides of the table so as to cut the cloth to a predetermined width. The cloth then moves under an edge folding and positioning station C which forms a fold of a predetermined width in the edge of the cloth. This occurs on one or both sides of the cloth. 
     From the edge folding and positioning station C, the cloth is then fed to a hem folding mechanism D which folds the hem into a double fold. From the hem folder D, the cloth is then fed under to a hem sewing head and cloth advancer E for sewing the hem into the edge of the cloth. 
     The cloth is fed from the hem sewing head and cloth advancer E into an accumulator F which accumulates a cloth reserve. The cloth passes around an adjustable tension roll  30  provided in the accumulator and from the roll  30  proceeds up onto a cutting table. 
     Provided on the cutting table is a length cutter G which cuts the cloth from one side to the other. 
     The particular length of cloth that is cut at this point is controlled by a cloth puller H. To explain the operation to this point we will take up from the point where the cloth was previously cut. As a result, there is a leading edge of cloth  24  directly under where the transverse cutter blade severed the cloth. 
     The cloth puller H is brought up from the end of the machine into engagement with the leading edge of the cloth  24  directly under the path of the cutting blade. The cloth puller H then grips the edge of the cloth and pulls it back towards the end of the machine over a folding table  8 . The cloth puller H pulls the cloth a predetermined length. Once the cloth  24  reaches that predetermined length, the cloth puller H is stopped by a proximity switch. The length cutter G then cuts the cloth extending over the table to a predetermined length. 
     While the cloth is on the folding table, folding dies I are lowered down on top of the cloth. Die lifters J are used for lowering the dies I down onto the cloth and retracting. Later they cycle to raise them up off of the cloth. Once the dies I are put in position on top of the cloth, the cloth puller H is moved back towards the cut edge to fold the leading edge of the cloth over the first folding die. It releases the cloth and retracts back to the end of the machine. 
     A trailing end folder K is then used for folding the trailing end of the cloth over the other die and other edge of the cloth. Once the cloth is folded, and in this particular instance for making a valance, a cloth hold down bar L is lowered on top of the free edges of the cloth pressing them in contact with a cloth shifter M. The cloth shifter M includes a plurality of drive belts which are supported on the folding table  8  directly beneath the bottom surface of the folded cloth and are in engagement therewith. In particular, the two dies and the cloth hold down bar L press the cloth down into engagement with the cloth shifting belts M. 
     The folded pattern is then shifted laterally off of the folding table. 
     As the folded pattern is shifted laterally off of the folding table, the leading edge comes in contact with an edge separating device N (see FIG. 26) which separates the upper edge from the lower edge and feeds it into a hem edge curler O which curls the upper edge inward to form a hem. The curled upper edge then is shifted by the cloth shifter M into engagement with the sewing head of a first sewing machine P. The first sewing machine sews the hem into the folded pattern to produce a pocket in the folded fabric. A second sewing head Q follows the first sewing head P and puts a continuous stitch in the fabric which is laterally spaced from the stitch placed by the first sewing head P so as to sew an elongated socket in the valance which is capable of receiving a curtain rod. 
     A photocell R is carried by the first sewing head P to sense the leading edge of the folded pattern as it is shifted by the cloth shifter M. At this point in the operation, both of the sewing heads P and Q are operating at the same speed so as to place the same number of stitches per inch in the fabric. However, upon the photosensor R sensing the leading edge of the folded pattern, it causes a signal to be generated that in turn slows down the rate that the cloth shifter is moving the cloth over the table and also slows down the stitching speed of the second sewing machine Q. As a result, the first sewing machine P goes into a tack mode to place more stitches per inch at the leading edge of the folded fabric. The tack mode continues for approximately one inch and then a controller associated with the operation of the sewing station returns the cloth edge shifter M to its original traveling speed and returns the speed of the second sewing head Q to its original speed. At this point in time, the folded fabric continues to be moved under both of the sewing heads P and Q to place a less dense stitch in the main body of the valance. Upon reaching the trailing edge of the folded pattern, the tack mode is again entered into to place more stitches per inch adjacent the trailing edge of the valance. All of this is under control of a controller that is activated by the photocell R. Any suitable controller can be used for synchronizing the operation of the feed of the fabric with the speed of the cloth shifter M and the sewing machine Q. 
     Before describing in detail the operation of the cloth cutting and sewing apparatus, one&#39;s attention is directed to a valance such as shown in FIGS. 27 and 28 that can be produced automatically on the apparatus. As can be seen, the valance  50  is produced from a predetermined length of fabric that is folded over and has a hem  52  sewed along its length. Another seam  54  is sewn longitudinally the length of the valance. As a result, a socket  56  is produced in the valance for receiving the conventional curtain rod holder and a pocket  58  is provided in the valance which can be stuffed with any suitable material to bulk up the valance if desired. 
     As shown in FIG. 27, when the valance is mounted over a window it has a header portion  60  located directly above the socket  56  through which the curtain rod extends. The valance can be gathered together to any degree to make the final position and design of the valance aesthetically pleasing. 
     Referring now to FIG. 1, the let off A may be any suitable conventional let off that allows the cloth to be unrolled from a large roll of cloth such as  10  and supplied under a uniform tension to a working table. 
     One particular cutter B that can be used for cutting an edge  70  off of the cloth is shown in FIG.  2 . It includes a motor  74  which can be energized by any suitable source of power that is in direct engagement with a shaft  76  which carries a rotating cutting disc  78 . As the cloth  24  moves under the disc  78 , it severs the cloth. In order to make the cut produced by the rotating disc cleaner, a carbide block can be placed closely adjacent the lower edge of the blade so that the cloth is severed by the outer edge of the blade pressing against the carbide block. An edge sharpener  80  can be carried adjacent to the cutting edge of the blade for being brought into engagement when desired to sharpen the blade  78 . The blade assembly and motor  74  is mounted on a carriage  80  which can be shifted laterally on a cross-support bar  82  that is in turn supported on the frame  84  of the table. As a result, the width of the cloth can be adjusted by moving the cutting head B laterally onto the cross bar  82 . 
     As the edge of the cloth  24  is severed by the cutting blade  78 , it then passes between a channel shaped member  86  which maintains the edge of the cloth straight during the severing operation by the blade. 
     After the cloth passes through the channel shaped member  86 , it is fed to the edge folding and positioning station C. The edge folding and positioning station C is shown in greater detail in FIGS. 3 and 4. The purpose of the edge folding and positioning station C is to properly and uniformly fold both edges of the fabric so that a straight and uniform width hem can be subsequently sewed into the edges of the cloth. The location of the inner edge  90  of the cloth is sensed by a pair of photoelectric sensors  92  and  94 . As long as the edge of the folded cloth is positioned in between the sensors  92  and  94 , no signal is generated to rotate an adjusting wheel  96 . As a result, a uniform width fold is produced in the edge of the cloth for subsequently hemming. 
     If the width of the fold is too great, then both of the photosensors  92  and  94  will be activated. When such occurs, a signal is generated and fed to an electric motor or any other suitable type motor  98  through conventional control circuitry. When the motor  98  is in turn activated, it rotates the wheel  96  clockwise. This clockwise motion of the wheel  96  causes the edge  90  of the cloth  24  to move outwardly. After a short delay, photosensors  92  and  94  are again activated for sensing the edge  90  of the cloth  24 . If the cloth is not properly aligned at this point, the wheel  96  is rotated further. If inner edge  90  is properly aligned between sensors  92  and  94 , no further adjustments are needed, and wheel  96  assumes a straight path. 
     If on the other hand the folded edge  90  is not wide enough and does not come between under each of the photosensors  92  and  94 , then the wheel  96  is rotated in the counterclockwise direction similar to as described above to guide the edge  90  of the fabric back between the photosensor cells. 
     The photosensor cells  92  and  94  include a light source positioned under the fabric and a sensor positioned on a space member. The fabric moves between the light source and the two sensor heads and operates in the conventional manner. 
     The position of the wheel  96  can be physically adjusted by loosening a screw  100  that is carried within an elongated slot  102  provided in a bracket  104 . The screw extends into a horizontal supporting plate  106  which is in turn carried on top of support block  108 . As can be seen in FIG. 4, the support block  108  is in turn hinged adjacent its lower end through a hinge  110  to a fold forming plate  112 . 
     The fold forming plate  112  has a vertically extending flange  114  that is in turn fixed to a vertical shaft  116  as shown in FIG. 3 that is in turn carried on a slidable tubular member  118 . The slidable tubular member  118  is carried on a square horizontally extending tubular member  120 . As a result, the horizontal or lateral position of the entire edge folding and positioning station C can be adjusted. 
     A spring loaded screw  122  extends between the support block  108  and the vertical flange member  114  for applying a predetermined pressure through the wheel to the cloth during its guiding operation. As can be seen in FIG. 4, the entire wheel assembly including the wheel  96  and the motor  98  can be pivoted slightly about the hinge  110  for controlling the pressure asserted on the cloth during the guiding operation. 
     After the cloth passes under the edge folding and positioning station C, it then moves through a conventional hem edge curler D such as shown in cross-section in FIG.  6 . The hem edge curler D includes a spherically twisted piece of sheet metal  130  that curls the cloth  24  into a double fold adjacent its leading edge  90  such as best shown in FIG.  6 . Such is a conventional hem forming mechanism. Once the fold is placed in the edge of the cloth  24 , it then passes under a hem sewing head and cloth advancer E as shown in FIGS. 5,  7 ,  8 , and  9 . At this point on the table, the cloth has been advanced or moved forward by the cloth advancer E. 
     The hem sewing head  142  is a conventional sewing head that sews the hem into the edge of the cloth once it is folded by the folder D. 
     Coupled to the shaft  140  of the sewing head  142  is an eccentrically mounted linkage  144 . This linkage in turn is connected off center to a shorter linkage  146  that is in turn carried on a shaft  148 . 
     During the sewing operation, the upper shaft  140  of the sewing machine runs continuously. As a result of the linkage  144  being eccentrically attached to the shaft, a reciprocating motion is imparted to the linkage member  144 . Such is shown by the arrow  150  in FIG.  8 . This reciprocating motion is in turn imparted to the shaft  148  which has a sprague clutch mounted therein which permits rotation to take place in one direction. The output of the sprague clutch is connected to an advancing roll  152  that engages the surface of the cloth  24  for pulling the cloth through the sewing head and across the table described previously. 
     The purpose of intermittently pulling the cloth through the sewing head is for not pulling the cloth when the needle is in the cloth. In other words, the material is only pulled when the needle comes out of the cloth. Thus, the feed roll  152  advances the cloth a predetermined distance in synchronicity with the sewing machine. A second roller  154  is positioned in tandem with the drive roller  152  and is in pressure engagement therewith so that when the drive roll  152  is rotated it causes the cloth  24  to be advanced therebetween. 
     As shown in FIG. 8, the sewing head E is carried on laterally extending guide rails  156  and  158  so that its position can be adjusted for accommodating and sewing cloth of various widths. 
     As a result of using a sprague clutch to the output of shaft  148  instead of a ratchet, the clutch will give infinitesimal adjustable intermittent forward movement through the cloth as compared to a ratchet which would be controlled by the spacing between the individual teeth. The principle of moving in one direction is analogous to a ratchet operation but by operating through a sprague clutch one can adjust the forward stroke. 
     In FIGS. 8 and 9, two embodiments of a sewing head and cloth advancer E are shown. In particular, in FIG. 8 the drive roller  152  is located above second roller  154 . In FIG. 9, on the other hand, drive roller  152  is located below the second roller  154 . Either embodiment can be used in the apparatus of the present invention. However, for most conventional sewing heads such as  142 , preferably the drive roller is located below the static roller for smoother operations. Of course, depending upon the equipment used or the particular circumstances, drive roller  152  can be placed in either position. 
     After the cloth  24  passes under the hem sewing head and cloth advancer E it is then fed into the accumulator F as shown in FIG.  1 . The weight of the roll  30  pulls the cloth down into the accumulator to accumulate a reserve of cloth. 
     The cloth extends around the bottom surface of the roll  30  and up on top of the length cutting table where a length cutter G has previously severed the cloth. At the cutting table, the cloth is being held in place by means of a brush like member  170 . The brush like member  170  extends entirely all the way across the frame. The angles of its bristles  172  point in the forward direction, in the direction of the cloth, so that the cloth can pass easily thereunder. However, brush member  170  prevents the cloth from being pulled backwards into the accumulator once the edge of the cloth has been severed by the length cutter G. 
     The length cutter G is shown in greater detail in FIGS. 10 and 11. It includes a cutting head  174  that is propelled back and forth across the cutting table by a gear tooth belt  176  that is driven by a driven pulley  178 . The pulley  178  is driven by a conventional electric motor  180  through a gear box  182  which is shown in broken lines in FIG. 10 so as not to obscure the remaining parts of the drawing. The cutting head is carried on a channel shaped bracket  184  that is in turn attached to the gear tooth belt  176  by means of bolts  186  which extend through a plate  188 . The channel member  184  is in turn attached to a supporting block  190  that has a pair of spaced guide channels  192  and  194  attached thereto. The pair of spaced guide channels are in turn supported on a rail  196 . The guide channels  192  and  194  are made of a self-lubricating material such as high molecular weight polyethylene so that the cutting head can be readily reciprocated back and forth across the machine during the cutting operation. 
     The timing belt  176  extends around a roller  198  which guides the belt around a geared roller  200  for driving the gear roller  200 . The belt then extends up around another idle roller  202 . As a result, as the belt is driven by the drive roller  178 , the cutting head moves back and forth across the cutting table. As it moves back and forth across the cutting table, the gear roller  200  is rotated. The gear roller  200  is fixed to a shaft  204 . The other end of the shaft  204  has a circular cutting blade  206  secured thereto. 
     A leaf spring  208  is carried adjacent to the lower end of the cutting head and the blade  206  so that it passes under the cloth during the cutting operation and guides the cloth into engagement with the rotating edge of the blade  206 . A carbide cutting block  210  is positioned adjacent to the bottom edge of the cutting blade  206  so as to make a clean severance of the cloth as the cutting head traverses back and forth across the machine. 
     The cutting head has a sharpening device  212  mounted thereon so that when a sharpening head  214  is brought into engagement with the rotating blade, it sharpens the edge of the blade at a proper angle. 
     The guide rail  196  upon which the length cutter G is carried extends entirely across the cutting table and is supported by its ends by any suitable standards. 
     As shown in FIG. 1, the cloth puller and leading edge folder device H is provided for pulling a predetermined length of cloth from the accumulator across a folding table  8  so that the length of the cloth can be cut by the length cutter G. The cloth puller has a gripping jaw that can be closed over the edge of the cloth that was cut by the length cutter. Once the cloth puller H engages the edge of the cloth, it can be retracted for pulling a predetermined length of cloth from the accumulator F. 
     The cloth puller H as shown in FIGS. 12 and 21 includes a pivoting gripping jaw  220  that has an upper movable flange member  222  that is hinged at hinge joint  224  that can be pivoted downwardly to a closed position to grip the leading edge of the cloth  24  with a cooperating jaw  226  located therebelow. The gripping jaw has a vertically extending flange  228  connected thereto so that when the flange is pushed forward by a plunger  230  to a vertical position, the gripping jaw  220  will be pushed down to grip the cloth. The plunger  230  is carried on the output of a pneumatically operated cylinder  232  that has a piston  234  extending therefrom. The hinge member  224  is supported on a base plate  236  that is in turn secured to a tubular member  238 . The tubular member  238  is in turn supported on spaced slide blocks  240  constructed of lubricated high molecular weight polyethylene material. Angle members  242  secure the tubular member  238  to the side block  240 . Side blocks  240  are carried on opposite sides of the frame as only one side of the cloth puller H is shown in FIG.  21 . The slide blocks  240  are in turn carried on a tubular rail  244  that is suitably supported on side frame members  246 . The guide blocks  240  have a metal support plate  248  attached to the bottom thereof which are in turn attached to a timing belt  250 . The timing belt  250  extends around spaced driven pulleys  252 . One of the pulleys  252  is supported on a rotatable shaft  254 . The upper end of rotatable shaft  254  has a gear  256  provided thereon. The gear  256  is in turn coupled by a chain  258  to a grip driven gear  260 . The driven gear  260  is coupled to the output of a gear box  262  which has its input connected to a motor  264 . By turning the motor  264  on and off, the gripping jaw  220  can be moved along the guide rail  244  to a position closely adjacent the previously cut end of the cloth for gripping the cloth. Once the gripping jaw  220  is engaged to grip the cloth, it can be retracted to pull a predetermined length of cloth from the accumulator. 
     A spring  266  extends from a vertically extending portion  228  of the jaw and the slide block  240  to hold the jaws in a normally open position. In order to close the jaw  220 , air is supplied to the pneumatic cylinder  232  to move the piston to the right, as shown in FIG.  12 . When the piston  234  is moved to the right, the plunger  230  engages the vertically extending portion of the upper jaw to pivot it about the hinge  224  to cause the horizontal gripping jaw  222  to move to the closed position where it would engage the cloth. 
     Before describing the sequence of operation of the pulling head and the folding of the cloth on the folding table, the dies for facilitating the folding of the cloth will be described. The dies include two elongated metal plates  270  and  272  such as best shown in FIGS. 22 and 24. The dies are placed on top of the cloth  24  after the cloth  24  has been pulled onto the folding table  8 . The dies are raised and lowered by lifting devices J. The lifting devices J as shown in FIG. 13 include an electrical magnet  274  carried on the end of a piston rod  276  extending out the lower end of a pneumatically operated cylinder  278 . The die plates are raised and lowered from the lifting table by manipulating the pneumatically operated cylinders  278 . In order to lower the die onto the cloth carried on the table, air is supplied to an upper port of the pneumatic cylinder  278  forcing the piston rod  276  out the lower end of the cylinder. The electromagnet  274  is energized at this time and has the metal die  272  secured thereto. When the die is positioned on top of the cloth, the electromagnet is deenergized releasing the die  272 , and the pneumatic cylinder  278  has air supplied to its lower port for raising the piston with the electromagnet upwardly so as not to interfere with the folding operation. 
     There are three electromagnets positioned above each of the dies for engaging metal plates  280  carried on the dies. 
     In order to ensure that the dies are properly positioned on the folding table, a T-shaped attachment  282  is carried on one of the ends of each of the dies. The T-shaped attachment is positioned between three abutments  284 ,  286 , and  288 , which properly align the end of the die on the folding table  8 . Aligning members  290  are provided adjacent to the other end of the dies and include a triangular shaped end portion  292  that is rotated into engagement with a V-shaped recess  294  provided on the end of the dies opposite the end where the T-shaped member  282  is carried. The positioning member  290  is carried on the end of an output shaft of a motor  291  that when energized rotates the engaged member  290  from a retracted position such as shown in FIG. 22 to a positioning position wherein the triangular shaped end portion  292  engages the V-shaped slot  294  to properly align the dies. The T-shaped attachments  282  and aligning members  290  maintain the dies  270  and  272  in their proper position during the folding operation as will be described hereinafter. 
     The entire pulling and folding operation of the fabric will be described below, but it is felt that it is best to describe some of the elements that are to be used in the operation before going through the sequences. Another functional device is the cloth hold down device L. The cloth hold down device L as shown in FIGS. 13 and 25 includes an elongated wooden block  300  that extends across the entire folding table  8 . Positioned adjacent the bottom of the elongated wooden block  300  is a foam pad  302  that has secured to the bottom surface thereof a strip of high molecular weight polyethylene  304 . The elongated block  300  is secured to the lower end of a plurality of pistons  306  that are in turn manipulated by pneumatically operated cylinders  308 . The purpose of the cloth hold down bar L is to hold the cloth flush against the folding table when it is desired to transport the folded cloth pattern laterally to a subsequent sewing station. As a result of the foam pad  302 , the low friction surface  304  is allowed to ride over seams and hems while imparting a substantially uniform pressure all the way across the cloth. The low friction surface  304  permits the cloth to slide under the hold down device when it is being shifted laterally to a subsequent sewing operation. 
     This sequence of the pulling and cutting of the predetermined lengths of fabric will now be described. First, reference is directed to FIG. 13 which shows on the right, the edge of the cloth  24  located directly under the cutter blade  206 . At this point in time, the cloth puller H is retracted to the end of the machine such as shown in FIG. 13, and the gripping jaw  220  is in an open position. The controller for the machine energizes the drive motor  264  which causes the timing belt  250  to be driven to move the gripping head  220  to the right, to the position shown in FIG.  14 . As the gripping head  220  approaches-the position shown in FIG. 14, a metal member  320  which is carried by the timing belt  250  and which projects laterally beyond the frame of the machine first passes proximity switch  322  as shown in FIG.  25 . At this point in time a signal is generated to slow the motor  264  down. The gripping head  220  continues, however, moving forward until the member  320  is positioned adjacent the proximity switch  324  which generates a signal that is fed back to stop the motor  264  in the position shown in FIG.  14 . Note in FIG. 14 that the dies I are engaged with the electromagnets and are in a raised position so as to permit the gripping head to pass thereunder. 
     FIG. 15 shows the gripping head  220  lowered to a closed position gripping the leading edge of the fabric  24 . 
     In FIG. 16, the controller associated with the machine again energizes the motor  264  to retract the puller H with the gripping head in the closed position pulling the cloth  24  out of the accumulator F. As the activating member  320  carried by the gripping head comes adjacent a proximity switch  326  as shown in FIG. 25, the motor slows down and keeps going backwards until it comes adjacent the proximity switch  328  which stops the motor  264 . In this position, the cloth  24  is extended its full length such as shown in FIG.  16 . The proximity switches are adjustable for extending the cloth  24  a predetermined distance. 
     The next step in the sequence is activating the pneumatic cylinders forming part of die lifters J to lower the dies I down on top of the folding table  8  as shown in FIG.  17 . At this point in time, the electromagnets carried on the end of the pistons associated with the lifting device are deenergized and leave the dies  270  and  272  on top of the extended cloth  24  such as shown in FIG.  22 . The cloth puller and leading edge folder H is again moved back to the right as shown in FIG. 18, and while it is moving to the right, it has the leading edge of the cloth engagement between the gripping jaws. When it reaches the position such as shown in FIG. 18, the jaws of the gripping device  220  are open to release the cloth. As can be seen in FIG. 18, a single fold has been made in the cloth at this time. 
     A trailing end folder K has an L-shaped angled member  340  carried on the upper end thereof which in turn has the trailing end of the fabric  24  resting on top. By pivoting the trailing end folder in the forward direction, the angle member  340  pushes the trailing edge of the fabric over the die  272  to produce the folded pattern such as shown in FIG.  19 . This folded pattern is now in position for being transported to a sewing station which will sew a hem in the edge of the upper fold and produce two elongated stitch lines along across the width of the entire valance to define a pocket and a socket in the valance. 
     The next step in the sequence is to lower the cloth hold down bar L onto the folded cloth pattern directly above the ends of the cloth as shown in FIG.  20 . The cloth shifter M, which is in the form of three driven belts  350 ,  352 , and  354 , is used for shifting the folded pattern of cloth laterally from the folding table to an adjacent sewing station. The T-shaped attachments  282  carried on the end of the dies  270  and  272  prevent the dies from being moved laterally as the cloth is pulled by the moving belts  350 ,  352 , and  354 , off of the folding table into the next sewing station. 
     As can be seen in FIG. 26, the folded pattern of cloth  24  is carried on the movable belts  350 ,  352 , and  354 . The pattern  24  is held down flush against the belts  352  and  354  by spring loaded plates not shown. The upper edge of the cloth  24  engages a first driven belt  360 . Prior to engaging the belt  360 , the folded pattern  24  moves into engagement with an edge separating device N which includes a thin upwardly projecting finger that protrudes between the adjacent folds in the pattern of cloth  24  and feeds the edge of the upper fold into a conventional hem edge curler O which curls the edge under to form a hem. 
     The hem is then fed towards a first sewing machine P which has a single needle. 
     The purpose of the first sewing head P is to put a length of stitch across the entire folded pattern and to tack stitches adjacent to the leading edge of the valance and the trailing edge of the valance. A second sewing machine Q follows the first sewing machine, and its purpose is to place a stitch continuously across the entire valance. The second sewing head is offset from the first sewing head so that you have offset stitch lines to define a socket for receiving a curtain rod and a pocket for receiving filler material. 
     A controller is used for controlling the drive of the sewing machines P and Q as well as the drive for the moving belts  350 ,  352  and  354  and the upper belts  360  and  362 . 
     A photocell R is carried by the first sewing machine P, and it generates a signal indicating that the leading edge of the folded pattern  24  has reached the sewing head. This causes a signal to be sent to the controller which slows down the conveying belts  350 ,  352  and  354  and the trailing sewing machine Q. The first sewing machine P continues to sew at its normal rate but since the movement of the fabric under the head has been slowed, more stitches per inch are placed in the leading edge of the folded fabric. This occurs for approximately one inch, depending on the preference of the customer. 
     The same tacking operation takes place at the trailing edge of the folded fabric. The controller can be set for activating the tacking operation according to the lengths of valances being produced. 
     After the two elongated stitches have been placed across the valances by the sewing heads P and Q, the thread extending between adjacent valances is cut by a thread cutter  364 , and the valances are moved off the end of the sewing station onto a rotating folder which folds the valances into a rectangular package. 
     Proper spacing is maintained between the valances being transferred from the folding table  8  to the final sewing station by means of a photocell  370  that is positioned adjacent to the side of the folding table as shown in FIG.  25 . This photocell senses the trailing and leading edges of the folded valances, and activates the controller which starts and stops the conveying and sequencing operation of the machine. Any suitable conventional controller can be used for synchronizing the various conveying and sewing operations taking place. 
     The apparatus of the present invention can also be adapted to feed two rolls of material simultaneously through the system as can be shown in FIG.  25 . The second or top roll of material is placed on the apparatus when it is desirable to have a liner included with the finished product. As shown in FIG. 25, a roll of fabric  400  is carried on a second let off A′. The let off A′ includes a power driven roll  402  which has a friction covering thereon. Similar to as described above, power driven roll  402  is driven by an electric motor. The motor is a variable speed driven motor. The speed of the motor can be placed under the control of a dancer roll  404 . The dancer roll  404  is permitted to move up and down responsive to variations in tension in the cloth extending therearound. As the dancer roll  404  moves up and down, the voltage applied to the motor drive board is varied for varying the let off speed of the cloth. 
     However, unlike roll let off A, roll let off A′ further includes a second power driven roll  406 . Preferably, roll  406  is driven by a slip clutch for varying the torque. Power driven roll  406  is added to let off A′ in order to have differential tension on the face fabric in comparison to the liner. 
     In one embodiment, dancer roll  22  can be set at a particular weight and thus at a constant tension. Dancer roll  404  is then also set at a particular weight. However, by including the second powered roll  406  the tension exerted on the liner  410  can be varied by adjusting the slip clutch engaged with the motor. This adjustment can be made in response to the tension being exerted on the cloth by the sewing heads and cloth advancers E. Once a proper adjustment in the tension of liner  410  is made, the liner  410  and cloth  24  should feed simultaneously and uniformly. 
     In this arrangement, power roller  406  always applies a continuous torque to liner  410  for placing in equilibrium the rate at which the liner and the cloth are fed to the sewing heads. One type of clutch that can be used in conjunction with the motor used to drive roll  406  is a hysteresis clutch which is well-known in the art. Using a hysteresis clutch, by increasing the voltage, a magnetic field is increased which can be used to vary the torque placed upon roller  406 . Of course, other similar types of clutches can be used in the present invention. 
     These and other modifications and variations to the present invention may be practiced by those of ordinary skill in the art, without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention, which is more particularly set forth in the appended claims. In addition, it should be understood that aspects of the various embodiments may be interchanged both in whole or in part. Furthermore, those of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that the foregoing description is by way of example only and is not intended to be limitative of the invention so further described in such appended claims.