Abstract:
An item of jewelry comprising a gemstone setting for magnifying and enhancing the appearance of a multiplicity of gemstones set therein, creating the illusion of a single very large gem. The gemstone mounting comprises inner and outer rings, the inner setting having a portion that fits inside the outer setting. The inner ring holds a central large gemstone surrounded by a plurality of smaller gemstones. A reflective surface on the outer ring is highly polished and/or coated with a reflective coating. To an observer, the array of gemstones supported by the inner ring has the appearance of a single very large gemstone, as light reflected onto the reflective surface by the array of gemstones held by the inner setting is further reflected back to the observer by the reflective surface of the outer ring. The gemstone setting may be incorporated into earrings, rings, bracelets, anklets, necklaces, and the like.

Description:
BACKGROUND 
       [0001]    The subject matter of this disclosure generally relates to jewelry and more particularly to gemstone mountings and related structures. 
         [0002]    Light reflected and refracted by gemstones and their deep, rich colors have appealed to many people over the course of several hundred years. Also, the fungible and lasting nature of gemstones has provided investment opportunities or means to tangible secure liquid assets. Gemstone prices are related to the size and clarity of the gemstone. Much of the satisfaction that comes with the ownership of wearing of precious gemstones comes from the gemstone&#39;s appearance. 
         [0003]    Gemstones such as diamonds, rubies, and emeralds are often cut into standard shapes and sizes that enhance the gemstone&#39;s appearance. However, despite the precious nature of gemstones, significant variance may be present between any two randomly selected, cut gemstones of the same weight. The size and cut of gemstones affect their characteristics. Larger and clearer gemstones command higher prices than smaller and flawed ones. 
         [0004]    In order to attach gemstones to the human body, settings are needed. Such settings are used in earrings, rings for fingers, bracelets, anklets, necklaces, and the like. Most of these settings use thin prongs to hold the gemstone in place without detracting from the gem&#39;s appearance. While adequately displaying the gemstone, such settings do not necessarily complement or enhance the appearance of the gemstone. 
         [0005]    There is a need for improvements in gemstone settings that will enhance the appearance of gemstones. 
       SUMMARY 
       [0006]    The subject matter of this disclosure is a gemstone setting for magnifying and enhancing the appearance of a multiplicity of gemstones set therein, creating the illusion of a single, very large gem. The gemstone setting comprises inner and outer rings, the inner ring having a portion that fits inside the outer ring. The inner ring holds a central large gemstone surrounded by a plurality of smaller gemstones arranged to magnify the appearance of the central large gemstone. The inner ring is located within the outer ring such that the girdle of the central large gemstone is recessed below the topmost edge of the outer ring. An inner sidewall (or “reflective surface”) at the top of the outer ring is highly polished and/or coated with a reflective coating. The reflectivity of this inner sidewall further magnifies the appearance of the gems in the inner ring, giving the appearance of a single very large gemstone, as light is reflected to the observer by the reflective surface of the outer ring. The gemstone setting may be incorporated into earrings, rings, bracelets, anklets, necklaces, and the like. 
         [0007]    In accordance with one embodiment, a circular array of small gemstones surrounding a central large gemstone is held in an inner ring. The inner ring is held within an outer ring having a conical inner reflective sidewall that surrounds the array of gemstones and reflects light back toward a light source after light from that source has impinged upon and been reflected onto the inner sidewall by the gemstones. The gemstone array is recessed relative to the upper edge of the reflective surface so that any reflected light impinging on the reflective surface from the gemstone array will be reflected by the reflective surface toward the observer&#39;s eye, creating an illusion that the array of gemstones is a single, very large gem. 
         [0008]    More particularly, the gemstone setting comprises an outer ring having a top edge and a reflective surface diverging upwardly from the vertical at an angle of 5 to 47 degrees, and settings for holding a plurality of gemstones (having a girdle, a table and upper facets) securely and stationary within the setting such that the upper edge of the girdle of a central gemstone is recessed below the top edge of the outer ring. Thus, the central gemstone appears larger than its actual size due to reflection of light by the reflective surface through the surrounding smaller gemstones and through the central gemstone. 
         [0009]    It can be seen that enhancement by the setting of a gemstone&#39;s appearance provides several advantages: a lower cost is required for a gemstone that can be made to appear larger; more satisfaction is derived from owning/wearing a gemstone that appears larger; and clearer, smaller gemstones may be purchased yet achieve a visual appearance associated with a larger gemstone. 
         [0010]    Other aspects are disclosed and claimed below. 
     
    
     
       BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS 
         [0011]      FIG. 1  is an illustration, in side view, of a gemstone and various geometric features of the gemstone for use with the gemstone settings described herein. 
           [0012]      FIG. 2A  is an illustration, in top plan view, of a first embodiment of a setting for gemstones as described herein, showing a plurality of gemstones set therein. 
           [0013]      FIG. 2B  is a cross-sectional view, taken along lines  2 B- 2 B, of the view of the gemstone shown in  FIG. 2A . 
           [0014]      FIG. 2C  is a cross-sectional view of a second embodiment of a setting. 
           [0015]      FIG. 3  is an illustration, in top plan view, of a first embodiment of a setting for gemstones as described herein, including additional circumferential settings, showing a main gemstone set therein. 
           [0016]      FIG. 4  is an illustration, in side sectional view, of an outer ring of a first embodiment of a setting, including additional circumferential settings, as described herein. 
           [0017]      FIG. 5  is an illustration, in side sectional view, of an inner ring of a first embodiment of a setting for gemstones as described herein, including additional circumferential settings, and showing a main gemstone set therein. 
           [0018]      FIG. 6  is an illustration, in side sectional view, of a first embodiment of a setting, including additional circumferential settings, as described herein, showing a main gemstone set therein. 
           [0019]      FIG. 7  is an illustration, in perspective view, of a setting for gemstones attached to a backing with a design element. 
           [0020]      FIG. 8  is an illustration, in side view, of a backing with a design element. 
           [0021]      FIG. 9  is an illustration, in perspective view, of a setting for gemstones attached to a simple backing. 
           [0022]      FIG. 10  is an illustration, in side view, of a simple backing. 
       
    
    
       [0023]    Reference will hereinafter be made to the drawings in which similar elements in different drawings bear the same reference numerals. 
       DETAILED DESCRIPTION 
       [0024]    Embodiments for settings are described herein for magnifying the apparent size of a gemstone. The settings generally utilize a number of features which will be described in more detail below, to create the appearance of a large gemstone out of a number of smaller gemstones, including one large central gemstone and a plurality of smaller peripheral gemstones. 
         [0025]    By way of introduction, a typical gemstone is shown in  FIG. 1  and described. Gems are commercially available in a variety of different shapes such as round, square or princess, pear, oval, marquis and the like. The gem has a crown  20 , a girdle  30  and a pavilion  22 . The crown defines a table  24  facing in an upward direction  26 , and a number of facets  28  facing diagonally upward with respect to the table  24 . 
         [0026]    Referring to  FIGS. 2A-2B , a first embodiment of a setting  100  will be described in detail. The setting  100  comprises an outer ring  102  and an inner ring  104  which are concentric. The inner ring  104  is inserted into the outer ring and has settings for a plurality of gemstones which will be described below. The settings in the inner ring  104  are arranged such that an arrangement of gemstones inserted into the settings in the inner ring  104  give the appearance of a single large gemstone by magnifying the apparent size of a single “main gemstone” (also referred to herein as a “central” gemstone). An example gem for use as a main gemstone  126  in the inner ring  104  is shown in  FIG. 1 . 
         [0027]    The outer ring  102  has a conical reflective surface  110  for further magnifying the size of the single central gemstone  126 . The outer ring  102  may optionally have other decorative features, such as additional settings for decorative gems which do not participate in providing the appearance of a single large gemstone. This will be described later, with respect to  FIGS. 3-6 . 
         [0028]    The mechanism of apparent magnification will now be described. A human observer viewing a gem typically observes light emitted from the table and facets on the crown of the gem. The appearance of a large gemstone may therefore be simulated by positioning smaller gemstones to simulate the appearance of the table and facets of a larger gemstone. For example, the appearance of a table of a large simulated gemstone may be simulated by providing a central gemstone which is smaller than the simulated gemstone. The table of the central gemstone simulates the appearance of the table of the larger simulated gemstone. The facets of the large simulated gemstone may be simulated by providing a plurality of angled peripheral gemstones positioned such that the tables of the angled peripheral gemstones in the plurality of angled peripheral gemstones appear to an observer to be the facets of the large simulated gemstone. The arrangement of one large central gemstone and a ring of concentric peripheral gemstones may therefore act to create the appearance of a large simulated gemstone from a number of smaller gemstones arranged in a particular way. 
         [0029]    The inner ring  104  therefore contains a main setting  106  for a large central gemstone  126  and a ring  128  of circumferential settings  108  for a circumferential arrangement of peripheral smaller gemstones  130 . This combination of main setting  106  and circumferential settings  108  allows positioning of gemstones in locations which provide gemstone surfaces simulating the appearance of the table and facets of a larger gemstone. This is accomplished by arranging the peripheral gemstones  130  around the main gemstone  126  such that the tables  132  of the peripheral gemstones  130  simulate the facets of a larger simulated gemstone as described above. 
         [0030]    The inner ring  104  magnifies the apparent size of the main gemstone  126  by a factor equal to the ratio between the circumference of the circumferential arrangement of gemstones  130  to the circumference of the main gemstone  126 , thereby providing the inner ring luminous area  152 . This inner ring luminous area  152  is shown in  FIG. 2A  as being equivalent in size to the visible part of the inner ring  104 . 
         [0031]    A second element of the setting  100 , the outer ring  102 , further magnifies the apparent size of the main gemstone  126  by extending the inner ring luminous area  152  to an outer ring luminous area  154 . As with the inner ring luminous area  152 , the outer ring luminous area is shown in  FIG. 2A  as being equivalent in size to the visible part of the outer ring  102 . This increase in size of luminous area is done by providing a conical reflector surface  110  which reflects light rays emitted from the main gemstone  126  and circumferential arrangement of gemstones  130  to an observer. The light rays reflected in this manner appear to an observer to originate within the outer ring luminous area  154  and therefore provide an appearance of a gemstone with a circumference that fills the entire outer ring luminous area  154 . Thus the outer ring  102  magnifies the apparent size of the gem by a factor equivalent to the ratio between the outer ring luminous area  154  and the inner ring luminous area  152 . 
         [0032]    Regarding the measurements of the outer ring  102 , and specifically the reflective surface  110 , it has been found that a maximum magnification of the appearance of the gemstone due to reflection by the surface  110  occurs when two conditions are simultaneously fulfilled. The first condition is that the reflective surface  110  diverges upwardly from the vertical at an angle of 5 to 47 degrees, preferably 8 to 35 degrees, and optimally 20 to 24 degrees. Thus the included angle of the cone formed by a linearly diverging sidewall would be double the angle from the vertical, i.e., 10 to 94 degrees, preferably 16 to 70 degrees, and optimally 40 to 48 degrees. The second critical condition is that the upper edge of the girdle  30  of the main gemstone  126  is recessed below the top edge  134  of the outer ring  102 , preferably with the table  24  disposed at or below the top edge  134  of the outer ring  102 . The second condition may not have to be fulfilled and in fact having the table of the gemstone be at the level of the top edge  134  of the outer ring  102  may provide a better look. 
         [0033]    Although optimal configurations are provided, many changes may be made to the vertical angle of the reflective surface  110  and the vertical location of the main gemstone  126 . However, there are some limits to what alterations may be made. Where the vertical angle of the reflective surface  110  is less than the minimum of 5 degrees, there is no appreciable illusion of magnification since the reflective surface  110  is too close to the vertical and thus does not appreciably enlarge the appearance of the gem  126 . Where the angle is greater than the maximum of 47 degrees, the reflection of the gemstone by the reflective surface  110  is too diffuse. If the girdle  30  of the gemstone  126  is above the top edge  134  of the outer ring  102 , then there is no apparent magnification since the reflecting sidewall is not positioned to reflect the upper facets of the gemstone. If the main gemstone  126  is recessed too deeply, the viewer sees mainly the reflective surface  110  and too little of the main gemstone  126  or its reflection. 
         [0034]    If desired, the angle formed by the reflective surface  110 , relative to the vertical, may differ above and below the girdle of the gem-in other words, the reflective surface  110  may have a bend or curve therein. It has been found that setting of a gemstone (and in particular, a small gem) is simplified when the angle formed, relative to the vertical, by the portion of the reflective surface  110  below the gemstone girdle is greater than that formed by the portion of the reflective surface  110  above the gemstone girdle. More particularly, this permits the gemstone to be disposed lower within the outer ring  102 , if desired, without varying the angle required to meet the first critical condition and without necessitating a change in the diameter of the base of the holder. 
         [0035]      FIG. 2C  depicts a second embodiment of a setting  150  in which the inner and outer rings of the first embodiment are fused. Additionally, the table of main gem  126  is in line with the top edge  134  of the setting  150 . 
         [0036]    Additional optional features, such as settings for additional gems, and parts for properly aligning the inner and outer rings  102 ,  104  will now be described with respect to  FIGS. 3-6 . 
         [0037]    The inner ring  104  has a base  136  having a top side  138  and a bottom side  140 . Setting features for the circumferential array of gems  130  and the main gem  126  are located on the top side  138  of the base  136  of the inner ring  104 . These setting features include a main setting (e.g., a conical slot)  106  for the main gem  126 , and a ring of smaller settings (e.g., conical slots)  128  for the concentric ring of smaller gems  128 . The main setting  106  is vertically aligned to allow the table  24  of the main gem  106  to be parallel with the top surface  134  of the outer ring  102 . The settings in the concentric ring of smaller settings  128  each point in a direction which permits the table of gems sitting within the concentric ring of smaller settings  128  to point at an angle with respect to the table of the main gem  106 . This angle corresponds roughly to the angle of facets on the crown of a typical gemstone with respect to the angle of the table. 
         [0038]    Setting beads  112  located in a circle around the main setting  106  hold in place the main gemstone  126  and the circumferential array of gems  130 . To set gems in the main setting  106  and ring of smaller settings  128 , gems are first placed into the settings  106 ,  128  and the beads  112  are pressed down to secure the gems in place. The beads  112  are sufficient to hold the main gemstone  126  in place, but the circumferential array of gems  130  may require an additional feature to secure. Such a feature can be a bezel rim  109  which can be bent over the gems in the circumferential array of gems  130  to hold the gems in place. It should be understood that these setting features are exemplary and other features which serve similar purposes may be used. For example, while a bezel setting is shown, other known means for setting the gems may be used. 
         [0039]    In an assembled configuration, the inner ring  104  is inserted into the outer ring  102  to allow magnification of the main gemstone  126 . The inner ring  104  sits within a slot  103  in the outer ring  102  which is shaped to correspond to the shape of the inner ring  104 . The slot  103  opens in a downward direction to permit the inner ring  104  to be inserted into the outer ring  102  from a bottom-up direction, and to be held in the outer ring  102  by a circular lip  115  in the outer ring  102 . The lip generally consists of a flat, circular surface  116  and a conical surface  114  which sit against the inner ring  104 . The outer ring also has a rounded bowl-shaped surface  122  in which several notches  120  are cut. The notches receive alignment extensions  118  extending from the inner ring  104  in order to align the inner ring  104  in a proper manner. The inner ring  104  may be attached to the outer ring  102  in a wide variety of known manners. In one preferred embodiment, the inner ring  104  is soldered to the outer ring  102 . 
         [0040]    The outer ring  102  may have a number of settings  136  for additional outer gemstones. In the embodiment shown, two concentric rings ( 138 ,  140 ) of settings for two rings of gemstones are shown, but any number and configuration of gemstones may be present, or none at all. These rings  138 ,  140  are shown on a radially outward surface of the outer ring  102 . 
         [0041]    A coating, such as a rhodium coating may be applied to the reflective surface  110  of the outer ring  102 . Alternatively, any reflective metal (preferably white, but even highly polished yellow gold) may be used instead of rhodium; however, rhodium has a tendency to keep its shine and reflectivity for an extended period. Preferably, the rhodium coating extends approximately two and one-half millimeters down the reflective surface  110 . Alternatively, the rhodium coating may extend to the inner ring  104  or farther. The rhodium coating complements the gem&#39;s appearance and enhances the visual presentation of the main gemstone  126 . 
         [0042]    A circular aperture  142  is formed at the lower portion of the inner ring  104 . This aperture  142  allows light to enter the interior of the setting  100  from the rear, and provide the main gemstone  126  with back lighting to enhance its appearance and sparkle. 
         [0043]    Backings for use in attaching the setting  100  to other jewelry elements such as a necklace, earring or the like are shown in  FIGS. 7-10 .  FIGS. 7 and 8  show a backing  202  having heart shaped design elements.  FIGS. 9 and 10  show a simple backing  204  having two cross bars  206 . The simple backing  204  has a hole  208  which may be used to attach the setting  100  to an earring pin to allow attachment to a wearer&#39;s pierced ear. The backings  202 ,  204  have legs  206 ,  210  with nubs  212  for insertion into holes  214  (seen in  FIGS. 4 and 6 ) in the outer ring  102  of the setting  100  for alignment and coupling. The backings  202 ,  204  may be soldered to the outer ring  102  or coupled in another way. 
         [0044]    A method of assembling a setting  100  comprises setting a main gemstone  126  into a central setting  106  in an inner ring  104 , setting a plurality of peripheral gemstones into a ring of peripheral settings, and inserting the inner ring  104  into the slot  103  in the outer ring  102 . The rings  102 ,  104  may be soldered together. If additional settings are present, small gemstones may be set into the additional settings. A backing  202 ,  204  can then be attached to the setting  100 . 
         [0045]    While jewelry has been described with reference to various embodiments, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes may be made and equivalents may be substituted for elements thereof. In addition, many modifications may be made to adapt a particular situation to the teachings without departing from the essential scope thereof. Therefore it is intended that the claims not be limited to the particular embodiments disclosed.