Abstract:
A method for improving garment generation which includes the steps of measuring raw shrinkage values for the garment ( 106 ), then calculating an enlarged garment specification, being larger than a desired garment specification, based on the raw shrinkage values. Next fabrics are cut based on the enlarged garment specification ( 112 ), and stitches are formed into a garment which meet the enlarged garment specifications. The garment is then bulk washed ( 116 ), such that after said bulk wash, the garment will meet the desired garment specification.

Description:
RELATED APPLICATIONS  
       [0001]    This application claims the benefit of priority from the provisional application Ser. No. 60/284,091 filed on Apr. 16, 2001 entitled “A METHOD AND SYSTEM FOR PREARING TEXTILE PATTERNS BEFORE SHRINKAGE”, the entirety of which is incorporated by reference herein. 
     
    
     
       FIELD OF INVENTION  
         [0002]    The present invention relates to a system and method for adjusting garment pattern measurements. More specifically, the present invention relates to a system and method for adjusting garment pattern measurements providing an adjusted garment measurement to compensate for bulk wash shrinkage after the garments are fabricated.  
         BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION  
         [0003]    In the textile industry one of the main obstacles to properly cutting patterns into fabric is related to the shrinkage that occurs during the initial washing. Generally, based on type of fabric, thickness, type of cut and other factors, different materials cut patterns shrink differently as a result of varying shrinkage resistances. When designing a textile garment pattern one method of manufacture calls for the clothing designer to supply the manufacturer the final garment measurements assuming that shrinkage has already occurred. This requires the end manufacturer of the desired garment to wash and dry the fabric on the roll so that the shrinkage occurs before the pattern is cut. This allows the pre-shrunk fabric to be assembled according to final garment measurements without any post-assembly aberrations.  
           [0004]    Another possible method for manufacturing garments is for the designer to supply the manufacturer the dimensions of garment with additional material calculated in such that the manufacturer can cut the fabric pattern, stitch the garment and wash and shrink it to size. In this case the designer will give specifications for a garment design that are larger than wanted so that the manufacturer can assemble the shirt with fabric cut from an unwashed roll. When the garment is cut, stitched and washed the garment then shrinks down to the desired size for the final garment specification.  
           [0005]    This stitching of garment fabric together before the initial shrink washing gives an added texture to the garment in the form of a wrinkling effect around the seam areas of the garment, caused by the shrinking material pulling against the seam stitching. This effect is considered desirable to some fashion designers who include this wrinkled style of garments in their garment lines.  
           [0006]    However, there are sometimes variations in the washing and shrinking process between different manufactures, caused by different washing procedures, different fabric origins and other factors. Because of these differences it is hard for a clothing designer to fabricate a single garment design in the above mentioned second method, that is to be cut and stitched before any shrinkage, that will work consistently for all of its manufacturers. Because of this, manufacturers generally get the final garment measurements with instructions to cut and stitch the fabric before shrinkage but without the benefit of knowing how much additional fabric if necessary. This creates a problem for the manufacturer because there is currently no way to expand the fabric measurements from the final garment measurements to the pre-shrinkage cut and stitch dimensions other than by trial and error.  
           [0007]    This trial and error method is costly and time consuming, and also has inherent problems with consistency. A manufacturer will receive a fabric pattern for a garment that gives the desired sale measurements. Then it is up to the manufacturer to expand those measurements out so that when the garment is stitched together and washed it will hopefully shrink to the designers final garment measurements. If it does not then modifications need to be made and the process is repeated.  
           [0008]    This current system gives rise to a need for a method which can, with considerable accuracy estimate the expansion parameters to convert a designer&#39;s final garment measurements into to a pre-shrinkage cut and assemble measurement, such that when the manufacture is asked to cut and assemble the garment before shrinking the fabric, most if not all of the trial and error process of measurement conversion can be eliminated. This invention overcomes the shortcomings of the currently used systems and provides a method for calculating the measurement increases necessary to convert final garment measurements to pre-shrinkage cut and stitch measurements.  
         OBJECT AND SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION  
         [0009]    Thus, it is the object of the present invention to overcome the drawbacks associated with the prior art so as to avoid trail and error process in generating textile patterns that account for extra material necessary for shrinkage.  
           [0010]    To this end, the present invention provides for a method for improving garment generation which includes the steps of measuring raw shrinkage values for the garment, then calculating an enlarged garment specification, being larger than a desired garment specification, based on the raw shrinkage values Next, fabrics are cut based on the enlarged garment specification, and stitches into a garment which meets the enlarged garment specifications. The garment is then bulk washed, such that after said bulk wash, the garment will meet the desired garment specification.  
       
    
    
     BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES  
       [0011]    [0011]FIG. 1 illustrates a fabric roll, in accordance with one embodiment of the present invention;  
         [0012]    [0012]FIG. 2 illustrates a bulk washing device, in accordance with one embodiment of the present invention;  
         [0013]    [0013]FIG. 3 illustrates test fabrics, in accordance with one embodiment of the present invention;  
         [0014]    [0014]FIG. 4 a  illustrates a stitched garment cut to enlarged garment specifications, in accordance with one embodiment of the present invention;  
         [0015]    [0015]FIG. 4 b  illustrates a stitched garment after bulk washing made to a correct garment specification, in accordance with one embodiment of the present invention;  
         [0016]    [0016]FIG. 5 illustrates system for preparing textile patterns before shrinkage, in accordance with one embodiment of the present invention;  
         [0017]    [0017]FIG. 6 is a flow diagram for a method for preparing textile patterns before shrinkage  
         [0018]    [0018]FIG. 7 is flow diagram for operating a system for preparing textile patterns before shrinkage, as illustrated in FIG. 5, in accordance with one embodiment of the present invention;  
         [0019]    [0019]FIGS. 8-19 illustrate a printout of results obtained using a system for preparing textile patterns before shrinkage, as illustrated in FIG. 5, in accordance with one embodiment of the present invention;  
         [0020]    [0020]FIGS. 20-21 illustrate a bulk wash formula table, in accordance with one embodiment of the present invention; and  
         [0021]    [0021]FIG. 22 illustrates a pocket shrinkage chart, in accordance with one embodiment of the present invention.  
     
    
     DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS  
       [0022]    In one embodiment of the present invention, a system and method for modifying garment specifications, comprises steps, allowing a user to begin with a first garment specification and to modify it into an enlarged garment specification such that when a garment is prepared with enlarged garment specification and subsequently assembled and bulk washed, it will be in accordance with or be within acceptable tolerance of the original first garment specifications.  
         [0023]    The present invention relates to a method  10  for garment manufacturers to fabricate a garment that is oversized, such that when it is shrunk during the bulk wash process it will conform to a garment specification  12 . To this end, as illustrated in FIGS. 1 and 2, the garment manufacturer will uses fabric cut from fabric roll  11  and bulk washing device  13 .  
         [0024]    During the garment fabrication process, a first test fabric  20   a  and a second test fabric  20   b  are cut from the same fabric roll  11  to be used during the creation of garment  18 . As illustrated in FIG. 3 test fabrics  20   a  and  20   b  are cut in equal sizes. Preferably,  24  inch squares are traced onto test fabrics  20  such that they generally reflect the average size fabric cut to be used in the garment  18 . A more detailed description of test fabrics  20  and their use is described below.  
         [0025]    In addition to test fabrics  20 , the garment manufacturer must create garment  18 . To this end, the manufacture begins with garment specification  12  given to him by the designer. However, in order to proceed with garments  18  that are designed to be assembled before the bulk washing process, garment specifications  12  need to be modified into enlarged garment specifications  14  via pre wash modification system  24 .  
         [0026]    To illustrate this FIGS. 4 a  and  4   b  display how garment  18  will appear differently throughout the fabrication process. FIG. 4 a  illustrates garment  18  before bulk washing, created using enlarged garment specification  14 . The material used will be oversized for the stitching lengths causing a ruffling at the seems. FIG. 4 b  illustrates garment  18  after the bulk wash, conforming to garment specification  12 . After bulk washing garment  18 , the fabric has shrunk to match the stitching and meets the requirements of garment specification  12 . Because garment  18  was assembled before it was shrunk, the seams will display a particular texture that can not be achieved by assembling garment  18  after bulk washing the fabric.  
         [0027]    To achieve these results, system  24  allows the manufacturer to increase the garment specification  12  into enlarged garment specification  14  such that when a garment  18  is fabricated according to enlarged garment specification  14 , and then bulk washed under specified conditions, the resulting after-wash garment will comply with the original garment specification  12  provided by the designer.  
         [0028]    As illustrated in FIG. 5, system  24  is comprised of a pre-wash processor  25 , a garment specification table  32  populated by original garment specifications  12 , a formula table  15  populated by data relating to the selected formula  34 , the corresponding modification percentages  36  with combination fractions  48  (if necessary), shrinkage percentage orientation table  39 , a raw shrinkage data table  17  populated by raw shrinkage results  22 , working shrinkage result calculator  19  for producing working shrinkage results  30  from raw shrinkage results  22 , a shrinkage amount table  42  populated by the shrinkage amounts  40 , and an enlarged garment specification table  44  populated by the calculated enlarged garment specification  14 . The complete operation of system  24  is described in more detail below.  
         [0029]    In one embodiment of the present invention a garment manufacturer receives garment specification  12  corresponding to an after-bulkwash specification where the pattern is to be cut and assembled into garment  18  and then bulk-washed and shrunk to meet the requirements of garment specification  12 . This technique is used to produce desired effects not attainable by bulk washing garment pieces before assembly.  
         [0030]    As depicted in a flow chart  90 , as seen in FIG. 6, at a first step  100  the manufacturer begins by procuring test fabric  20  made of the same material to be used by garment  18 . Test fabric  20  should be relaxed or removed from the roll so it will be treated similarly to the actual treatment of garments  18  that will be produced from the same or similar rolls. Additionally, to prevent test fabric  20  from presenting aberrant shrinkage behavior, test fabric  20  should be taken from a piece of fabric roll  11  that is at least three yards from the end cut. This will assure that test fabric  20  will be composed of fabric that was produced and treated under similar stresses and tensions as the fabric that will ultimately be used in producing garments  18 .  
         [0031]    Next, at step  102 , two squares of acceptable size, for example  24  inches, are traced onto test fabric  20  and separated into test fabric  20   a  and test fabric  20   b . Several copies of test fabric  20   b  can be produced from test fabric  20  in case of any problems with the bulk wash settings of before-wash test garment  28  in steps  114 - 116  as will be discussed later. At step  104 , test fabric  20   a  is washed under the specified bulk wash conditions while test fabric  20   b  is stored for use later in the process. Next, at step  106 , test fabric  20   a  is measured producing raw shrinkage results  22  for test fabric  20   a.    
         [0032]    Shrinkage results  22  consist of two components a length shrinkage measurement  22   l  and a width shrinkage measurement  22   w . It is important to note that the orientation of the test fabric with relation to the fabric roll determines which measurement is which. Length shrinkage measurement  22   l  is based on the shrinkage perpendicular to the spindle axis of fabric roll  11 . Width shrinkage measurement  22   w  is based on the shrinkage parallel the spindle axis of fabric roll  11 . Even if test fabric  20   a  is of a square shape the shrinkages under bulk wash conditions will be different. A greater shrinkage is expected in length shrinkage measurement  22   l  based on various factors that affect fabric tension as it is placed on fabric roll  11  including but not limited to the tension at which it is was placed on the roll and the stitching pattern.  
         [0033]    At step  108 , raw shrinkage results  22  are entered in to system  24  which alters the original garment specifications  12  into enlarged garment specification  14  such that when garment  18  is assembled and shrunk it will be in accordance with original garment specification  12 . A more detailed description of system  24  is described in the next portion of the specification and will more fully describe the process of converting garment specification  12  into enlarged garment specification  14 .  
         [0034]    After system  24  enlarges the input garment specification  12  into an output enlarged garment specification  14  the user proceeds to step  110  where system  24  then displays enlarged garment specification table  44  populated by the calculated enlarged garment specifications  14 . Enlarged garment specifications  14  are then entered by the user into the device that will be cutting the fabric from fabric roll  11 . Both steps  108  and  110  are more fully described below in the section discussing the operation of garment specification modification program  24 .  
         [0035]    Next, at step  112  one sample before-wash test garment  28  is cut from fabric roll  11  and assembled in accordance with enlarged garment specification  14 . The fabric used to create garment  18  and before wash test garment  28  is cut from fabric roll  11  using a digital CAD/CAM device in accordance with the output of system  24 . However, the CAD/CAM (Computer Aided Drafting/CAM) device is not necessary, any means of cutting the fabric from fabric roll  11  in accordance with enlarged garment specification  14  is within the contemplation of the present invention.  
         [0036]    At step  114 , the assembled before-wash test garment  28  is then washed under the same conditions as the bulk washing that all of the garments from fabric roll  11  will be washed. At step  116 , test fabric  20   b , used as a control, is washed along with before-wash test garment  28 . Before-wash test garment  28  is checked to see if it is within acceptable tolerance of the requirements of garment specification  12 . If before-wash test garment  28  is within an acceptable tolerance, then the initial settings used in system  24  were correct and the process for cutting of fabric in accordance with enlarged garment specification  14  can commence for the desired number of garments  18 .  
         [0037]    However, if before wash test garment  28  has shrunk too much or shrunk too little, or some combination of the two along different axes, then the user must proceed to an adjustment mode. A this point, step  118 , test fabric  20   b  is checked against test fabric  20   a . If test fabrics  20   a  and  20   b  are different, then it is possible that modification to the washing process or bulk washing device  13  are at fault for the aberrations in the outcome of before-wash test garment  28 . Some conditions that could cause aberrations in the bulk wash process include but are not limited to humidity factors, heat variations in drying and water/detergent quality. If this is the case, the process should be repeated from step  112  paying careful attention to maintain consistent bulk wash conditions during the repeating of step  114 .  
         [0038]    However, assuming the shrinkage of the two test fabrics  20   a  and  20   b  are the same, then it can be assumed that the bulk wash conditions remained the same between the first washing of test fabric  20   a , and the second washing for before-wash test garment  28  and test fabric  20   b . If this is the case, the user returns to steps  108 - 110  and to system  24  for adjustments that will be discussed in more detail below. This process is repeated until before wash test garment  28  comes within a acceptable tolerance of garment specification  12  at step  116 .  
         [0039]    In another embodiment of the present invention, pre-wash modification system  24  is employed to convert garment specification  12  into enlarged garment specification  14 . System  24  relates specifically to the process discussed above in steps  108  and  110  of the overall method  10 . System  24  utilizes raw shrinkage results  22 , listed in raw shrinkage data table  17 , from test fabric  20   a  to modify garment specification  12 , resulting in enlarged garment specification  14  such that the trial and error process currently employed can be mostly avoided. By using shrinkage results  22  and modifying them based on direction the garment pieces are cut and the type of fabric and type of patterns employed (shirt, pants, yoke area, ect.), system  24  estimates the exact enlarged garment specification  14 , significantly reducing the lengthy trial and error process.  
         [0040]    A more detailed description of the operation of the system is illustrated in FIG. 7. FIG. 7 illustrates a flow chart  290  of the operation of the system  24 . FIG. 8 illustrates a print-out  25  from system  24  of enlarged garment specification  14  corresponding to formula  34   a . Print-out  25  illustrates the data contained in raw shrinkage data table  17 , working shrinkage results  30 , garment specification table  32 , shrinkage amount table  42 , enlarged garment specification table  43 , and shrinkage percentage orientation table  39 .  
         [0041]    At a first step  300  in the operation of system  24 , the user must enter both length shrinkage results  22   l  and width shrinkage results  22   w  into raw shrinkage data table  17 . These shrinkage results  22  that are entered into system  24  represent the raw shrinkage percentages of test fabric  20   a . The size of test fabric  20   a  can be of any size that would accurately display the shrinkage behavior of the rest of the fabric on fabric roll  11 . If test fabric  20   a  is too small it may by difficult to measure the shrinkage percentage accurately and the piece may also present some aberrant shrinkage results.  
         [0042]    Next, at step  302 , the shrinkage results  22  ( 22   l  and  22   w ) are modified into working shrinkage results  30  by working shrinkage results calculator before the process continues. Working shrinkage results  30  are used to account for the additional material shrinkage when additional material is added to garment specification  12 . For example, when test fabric  20   a  is shrunk in bulk wash conditions a shrinkage result  22  is obtained. However, when the actual fabric is enlarged to account for the fabric shrinkage, a small amount additional fabric, or the shrinkage fabric  40 , is added in excess of garment specification  12 . Just as the amount of original fabric shrinks, the additional fabric added to the garment also shrinks. To compensate for the shrinkage of shrinkage amount  40 , raw shrinkage results  22  are modified by working shrinkage result calculator  19  into working shrinkage results  30  using the equation:  
         100((1+x)+(x+x/100))−100/100  
         [0043]    where x=either length or width shrinkage results  22   l  or  22   w  This produces working shrinkage results  30  by adding an additional percentage equal to the original shrinkage results  22 .  
         [0044]    For example as illustrated in FIG. 8, length shrinkage result  22   l  was measured at 8.33%, entered at step  300 . This number was modified into 9.02389% or working shrinkage result  301 , by using the above equation at step  302 . Here 8.33% of 8.33% is 0.693889%, which when added to 8.33% yields 9.02389%. This enlarged working shrinkage result  30  will account for the shrinkage not only of the garment specification  12  but also of the additional several inches fabric needed to create the pattern for enlarged garment specification  14 . This assumes that the shrinkage of the extra material will occur at roughly the same percentage as the shrinkage of the majority of the garment piece.  
         [0045]    At step  304 , the user enters garment specification  12  into garment specification table  32  the contents of which are displayed on printout  27 , as illustrated in FIG. 8. The sample garment used in FIG. 8 is a shirt made of a woven material. These numbers represent the final measurements that garment  18  must conform to within acceptable tolerance. The numbers listed on garment specification table  32  in FIG. 8 are in inches.  
         [0046]    Next, at step  306 , the user picks a formula  34  from system  24 , as stored in formula table  15  based on several factors that can effect the shrinkage of garment  18 . Examples of these factors include but are not limited to knit fabrics versus woven fabrics, pattern cut direction with respect to the fabric roll direction, stretch properties of the style of garment, bulk washing formulas, and other features of the garment such as pockets which affect shrinkage during bulk washing. A more detailed description of some of the possible formulas  34  for system  24 , detailing their particular uses is discussed below.  
         [0047]    Regarding bulk wash conditions, FIGS. 20 and 21 illustrates a bulk wash formula tables  200  and  210 . Table  200  is for bulk wash conditions for shirts and table  210  is for bulk wash conditions for pants. Using tables  200  and  210  the user can determine based on the wash duration, wash temperature, fabric construction, fabric weight, fabric finish, and type of wash if any modifications to formula  34  are required. For example, longer or more intense washes tend to breakdown a fabrics ability to resist shrinkage, whereas lighter shorter washes will allow the fabric to retain its strength and its ability to resist shrinkage.  
         [0048]    Regarding pockets, FIG. 22 illustrates a sample pocket chart  220  which shows the modification amounts to shrinkage calculations that for pants based on the number of pockets. Additional stitching from the pockets adds resistance to shrinkage. However, as the fabric is washed longer or under harsh conditions, this resistance is broken down. As such, chart  220  illustrates this, in that additional material is added to the waistband of the pants in larger amounts when there are less pockets, because there is less resistance shrinkage. Similarly, more fabric needs to be added as the bulk wash cycle is lengthened, because the harsher washing conditions also break down the resistance to shrinkage. Chart  220  is correlated to shirt chart  200  and pants chart  210  in that the numbers on the left column,  2 - 5 ,  6 - 9 ,  10 - 13  and  14 - 17  are derived based on the bulk wash formula calculation found on the right column in charts  200  and  210 .  
         [0049]    These criteria for assisting in selection of formula  34  are intended only as examples of possible calculations used to select formula  34  and are in no way intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Any such assessment of a fabric shrinkage factor used to help select the correct formula  34  for use in system  24  is within the contemplation of the present invention.  
         [0050]    Formula  34  can be created in one of several ways. One example for the base formula used for formulas  34   a - 34   e,  as illustrated in FIGS. 8-12, as stored in formula table are referred to as  15  “Master woven shirt formula #1-#5 w/body at X %-Y % breakdown of 100% shrinkage w/collar and band at Z %.”Here X % represents the percent shrinkage in the armhole and Y % the remaining shrinkage percentage, which adds up to 100% shrinkage attributable to the remaining height of the back.  
         [0051]    The Z % shrinkage is the shrinkage percentage out of 100% that in the collar and band will experience. For example, if the overall shrinkage percentage is 10%, then Z % represents the percentage of that 10% overall shrinkage that will be displayed by the collar and the band. This Z % is separate from the calculations associated with the X % and the Y %.  
         [0052]    These percentages relate to modifications to working shrinkage results  30   l  and  30   w  based on modifications to raw shrinkage results  22  from test fabric  20   a . The results obtained from test fabrics  20  do not necessary reflect the actual shrinkage that the various elements of garment  18  will experience during the bulk washing. Test fabric  20   a  is a flat unstitched piece of fabric, however the various pieces of garment  18  such as the collar, waist cuff, front and the back, include stitchings and stretching factors (from bulk wash process) that may reduce the shrinkage. Therefore, system  24  uses formulas  34  and their associated modification percentages  36  stored in formula table  15  to create working shrinkage results  30 .  
         [0053]    One example of formula  34   a , illustrated in the chart in FIG. 8, is “Master woven shirt formula #1 w/body at 60%-40% Breakdown of 100% shrinkage w/collar and band at 60%.” Formula  34   a  is used here as an example for illustrating the complete operation of system  24 , however any one of a list of programs can be chosen at step  306  depending on the intended garment style, fabric to be used, and bulk wash specifications. The 60%+40% breakdown of 100% represent the principal modification percentages  36  for length (60%) and width (40%). Also, the collar and band measurements are adjusted by 60% in formula  34   a . However, because some of the measurements used in garment specification  12  incorporate measurements along both the length and width axes, the actual modification percentages  36  for the various pieces of garment  18  range from 50% to 100%.  
         [0054]    As illustrated in FIG. 8, the various modification percentages  36  used for each garment piece is listed beside that piece in modification percentage column  38  of print out  25 , as populated by formula table  15  based on the formula  34  chosen. When selecting a formula  34  from formula table  15 , the user bases the decision on their own knowledge and experience as well as some general guidelines discussed below. If the wrong formula  34  is chosen then garment  18  will not meet the requirements of garment specification  12 . This could be one of the factors, described above at steps  108  and  110 , where the user may have to adjust system  24  to achieve acceptable results.  
         [0055]    At step  308 , the user selects formula  34   a  from formula table  15  of system  24  which in turn instructs before-wash processor  25  of the appropriate modification percentage  36 . These modification percentages also populates modification percentage column  38  in print out  25 , as illustrated on FIG. 8. Next, at step  310 , before-wash processor  25  of system  24  calculates enlarged garment specification  14  by using working shrinkage result  30 , modifying it with the appropriate modification percentage  36  and applying it to garment specification  12  for each piece of garment  18  such as, the top collar, chest, and waist etc. This results in a shrinkage amount  40 , which in turn populates shrinkage amount table  42 .  
         [0056]    When calculating shrinkage amount  40 , working shrinkage results  30  are multiplied by modification percentages  36 . However, there are two sets of working shrinkage results,  30   w  and  30   l.  A shrinkage results orientation table  39 , populated with data retrieved from formula table  15 , identifies which of the working shrinkage results  30   l  or  30   w  is necessary for each particular garment  18  piece. Shrinkage results orientation table  39  lists either an L or a W or both next to each garment  18  piece. The contents of shrinkage results orientation table  39  are displayed on printout  27  next to each piece of garment  18 . Based on this information, system  24  will use the proper working shrinkage results  30   l  or  30   w  when multiplying by modification percentages  36 . As explained above the orientation of the fabric off of fabric roll  11 , is the determining factor in which working shrinkage result  30  from test fabric  20   a  is for the length and which is for the width. When garment specification  12  is given to the manufacturer the pattern must be matched against the justified against fabric roll  11  orientation.  
         [0057]    After, shrinkage amount  40  is calculated by before-wash processor  25  of system  24 , it is added to garment specification  12  resulting in enlarged garment specification  14 , and stored as output in enlarged garment specification table  44 . Print out  25  displays the results found in enlarged garment specification table  44  nest to each piece of garment  18 , as illustrated in FIG. 8. These calculations are performed in accordance with the following equation:  
         (( X  %× Y  %)× Sg )+ Sg=ESg    
         [0058]    where X=working shrinkage results, Y=modification percentage  36 , Sg=garment specification (in inches as depicted on FIG. 8), and ESg=enlarged garment specification  14 .  
         [0059]    This process is repeated for every measurement necessary for garment  18  until all of the pieces are accounted for. For formula  34   a  these measurements include; top collar, collarband, chest, waist, bottom, shoulder, arm hole, body length, side seam, net sleeve, sleeve length combined, cuff width, cuff height, sleeve placket, sh sleeve length sh sleeve hemispherical circumference, collar point length, tie space, and cf placket width. The results are use to populate enlarged garment specification table  44 , which, when viewed in printout  27 , provides the user with all of the information necessary to produce a final garment  18 .  
         [0060]    In one embodiment of the present invention, a sample calculation performed by before wash processor  25  for the collar in formula  36   a  (master woven shirt #1) is described using the following:  
         [0061]    Master woven shirt #1—collar  
         [0062]    shrinkage results ( 22   l )—8.33%; working shrinkage results ( 30   l )—9.02389%  
         [0063]    garment specification ( 12 ) 16.00″ 
         [0064]    modification percentage ( 36 ) 60%  
         [0065]    shrinkage amount ( 40 )=60%×9.02389%×16.00″=0.86629″ 
         [0066]    enlarged garment specification ( 14 )=16.00″+0.87″=16.87″ 
         [0067]    More complicated calculations occur when the particular piece of garment  18  being modified included measurements along both the length and width axes. Such calculations occur in situations such as the armhole and sleeve length modifications, as illustrated by shrinkage result orientation table  39  on printout  27  as seen in FIG. 8.  
         [0068]    These calculations include the use of both working shrinkage results  30   l  and  30   w . The calculation for the armhole in this cases uses both working shrinkage results  30   l  and  30   w  to calculate the appropriate enlarged garment specification  14 .  
         [0069]    Before-wash processor  25 , using a combination fraction  48 , in conjunction with the equation listed above the armhole calculation, utilizes the following modified equation  
         Sg+(Sg(Zw)(Xw %)(Y %))+(Sg(Zl)(Xl %)(Y %))  
         [0070]    where Xw=working shrinkage results (width), Xl=working shrinkage results (length), Y=modification percentage, Zw=combination fraction (width), Zl=combination fraction (length), Sg=garment specification (in inches as depicted on FIG. 8), and ESg=enlarged garment specification.  
         [0071]    In an exemplary calculation of the armhole shrinkage amount  40  and enlarged garment specification  14 , the calculations are as follows:  
         [0072]    Master woven shirt #1—armhole  
         [0073]    shrinkage results ( 22   l )—8.33%; working shrinkage results ( 30   l )—9.02389%  
         [0074]    shrinkage results ( 22   w )—3.12%; working shrinkage results ( 30   l )—3.21734%  
         [0075]    garment specification ( 12 ) 22.88″ 
         [0076]    modification percentage ( 36 ) 60%  
         [0077]    combination fraction ( 48   w )—{fraction (7/12)} 
         [0078]    combination fraction ( 48 )—{fraction (17/30)} 
         [0079]    Enlarged garment specification ( 14 )=22.88″+[( 22.88″{fraction (7/12)}) ( 3.21734%)(60%)]+[( 22.88 {fraction (17/30)}) ( 9.02389%)(60%))=22.88″+0.2576+0.7187=23.85″ 
         [0080]    As illustrated in this calculation, enlarged garment specification  14  is calculated using both working shrinkage results  30   l  and  30   w . Combination fractions  48   l  and  48   w  are derived from the ratio of length fabric to width fabric used in a particular garment piece measurement, the armhole in this case, and then modifying it for overlap. Combination fractions  48  are stored in formula table  15 , and sent to before wash processor  25  along with the accompanying modification percentages  36 . As is illustrated in formula  34   a , armhole measurement, the combination fractions  48   l  and  48   w  exceed 1.0 (1{fraction (3/20)}) which implies that some of the length and width shrinkages will overlap slightly at the meeting point for these measurements.  
         [0081]    Also illustrated in FIG. 8 the sleeve measurement requires both length and width measurements as well, however, system  24  does not directly utilize working shrinkage results  30   w  and  30   l  but instead uses shrinkage amount  40 , as stored in shrinkage amount table  42 , from two other garment pieces, the shoulder (which uses  30   w ) and the net sleeve (which uses  30   w ).  
         [0082]    Different formulas  34  can be used by system  24  which employ many different equations to calculate enlarged garment specification  14  from garment specification  12 . The above listed example was only an example of one formula  34  for using with system  24 , however many different formulas  44  are available, which are described in more detail below. Additionally, any system that utilizes similar calculations to account from bulk wash shrinkage are within the contemplation of the present invention. Different garment  18  types, different cut styles and different bulk wash formulas may employ several variations to the standard equations used.  
         [0083]    In another embodiment of the present invention, various formulas  34   a - 34   l  exist for use with system  24  for use with different fabric types or different garment types to account for the differences in modification percentages  36  necessary to adjust working shrinkage results  30 . As discussed above, such factors as the variations in the stitching of garment pieces such as the collar and cuffs, stretch properties of the fabric, bulk wash formulas used and the use of long or short sleeves, give rise to the need for formulas  34   a - 34   l  to utilize different modification percentages  36  Formnulas  34   a - 34   l  listed below are only samples of formulas  34  that can be used in conjunction with this program.  
         [0084]    In this embodiment, an exemplary discussion of the origin of some of shrinkage percentages  36  for formulas  34   a - 34   l  follows. These formulas  34   a - 34   l  are intended as examples of shrinkage percentages  36  as used on certain types of garments  18  and is no way intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Any system  24  which incorporates the use of estimated shrinkage percentages  36 , to modify garment specifications  12  as described above is within the contemplation of this invention.  
         [0085]    In one embodiment of the present invention, as illustrated in FIGS. 8-12, formulas  34   a - 34   e  have the following base formula; Master woven shirt formula #1-#5 w/body at X %-Y % breakdown of 100% shrinkage w/collar and band at Z %”, where X % and Y % represent shrinkage modification percentages related to the back cut of the shirt at the armhole and along the rest of the length measurement of the back below the armhole, respectively, and the Z % shrinkage is the shrinkage percentage out of 100% that in the collar and band will experience.  
         [0086]    Formula  34   a , entitled “Master woven shirt formula #1 w/body at 60%+40% breakdown of 100% shrinkage, w/collar and band at 60%” is used mostly for higher count fabrics with the collar lining on straight and collarband on a 9 degree bias, where bias refers to the cut angle of the lining pads. Formula  34   b , entitled “Master woven shirt formula #1 w/body at 60%+40% breakdown of 100% shrinkage, w/collar and band at 65%” is used for mostly the same purpose as formula  34   a  except that 5% of sew shrinkage is added to the collar and the collarband to be used as desired. This adjustment to the collar band is to account for the bias lining cut variations.  
         [0087]    Formula  34   c,  entitled “Master woven shirt formula #1 w/body at 60%+40% breakdown of 100% shrinkage, w/collar and band at 70%”, is used for the same fabrics that formulas  34   a  and  34   b  are used except that the collar and the collarband use 70% of working shrinkage results  30   l,  because when the lining of the collar and the collarband are at a 45 degree bias they will shrink more due to less resistance to shrinkage. Formula  34   d,  entitled “Master woven shirt formula #1 w/body, at 60%+40% breakdown of 100% shrinkage, w/collar and band at 75%” is used in the same situation as formula  34   c  except that there is 5% more allowance for shrinkage in the collar and collar band. Formula  34   e,  entitled “Master woven shirt formula #1 w/body at 70%+30% breakdown of 100% shrinkage, w/collar and band at 70%”, is used when the fabric has less resistance to shrinkage. This formula  34   e  also has a 75% allowance for bias lining in the collar and the collarband.  
         [0088]    Additionally, woven shirt formulas  34   a - 34   e  allow for alterations of the front armholes at the shoulder seams to match the different percentages of growth in the yoke shoulder seams. These formulas  34   a - 34   e  also allow for alterations of the top of the back armholes so that the top of the backs will match the yoke lengths.  
         [0089]    In one embodiment of the present invention, as illustrated in FIGS. 13-17, formulas  34   f - 34   j  have the following base formula; Master knit formula #1-3,5-6 W-A %, L-B %, SL-C %, using D %-E % breakdown or 100% shrinkage.  
         [0090]    Here A %, B % and C % refer to the overall shrinkage amounts along three separate measurements, length, width, and sleeve length and where D % and E % represent the percent of overall shrinkage along the length of the back at the armhole and along the remaining length of the back, respectively. The A %, B % and C % show that the knit formulas when stitched may display additional restraint in overall shrinkage along the width and the sleeve length due to properties inherent in the knit fabrics and reaction to tumbling in the bulk wash.  
         [0091]    Formula  3   f,  entitled “Master knit formula #1 W-100%, L-100%, SL-100%, using 80%+20% breakdown or 100% shrinkage” is used in standard knit shirts which do not display much resistance to shrinkage. The 80%(D %)+20%(E %) is the formula breakdown of 100% shrinkage corresponding to the shrinkage percentage  36  used in the body area.  
         [0092]    The remaining formulas;  34   g  entitled “Master knit formula #2 W-100%, L-100%, SL-95%, using 80%+20% breakdown or 100% shrinkage”;  34   h  entitled “Master knit formula #3 W-100%, L-100%, SL-90%, using 80%+20% breakdown or 100% shrinkage”;  34   i  entitled “Master knit formula #5 W-100%, L-100%, SL-75%, using 80%+2% breakdown or 100% shrinkage”; and  34   j  entitled “Master knit formula #6 W-100%, L-100%, SL-60%, using 80%+20% breakdown or 100% shrinkage” represent variations pertaining to the stretching qualities and shrinkage resistance qualities found in garments  18  sleeve lengths due to shrinkage resistance caused by the stitching.  
         [0093]    In one embodiment of the present invention, as illustrated in FIGS. 18 and 19, formulas  34   k  and  34   l  have the basic formula “Master woven pant formula #1-2 L-A %, W-B %, Apex-C % from W-0% * L-0%” where A %, B % refer to the width and length shrinkage adjustments used for modification percentages  36 . C % refers to the apex shrinkage adjustment used for modification percentage  36  that include measurements near the seat of the pants. The terms “From W-0% * L-0%” simply means that the A %, B % and C % are applied directly to the garment specifications  12 .  
         [0094]    For example, formula  34   k,  entitled “Master woven pant formula #2 L-75%, W-100%, Apex-20% from W-0% * L-0%”, the first 75% is length modification percentage  36  for the front and back body lengths. The 100% corresponds to shrinkage percentage  36  for the front and back body patterns, and the 20% shrinkage percentage  36  corresponds to the amount that the crotch is raised to achieve a 55% extension for the front rise because the zipper will resist further shrinkage.  
         [0095]    Here the back crotch is being raised with front crotch but it is blended to back rise line. The raising of the crotch by a shrinkage percentage  36  of 20% also increases the inseam length shrinkage allowance to 95%. However, the side seam shrinkage percentage  36  remains 75%.  
         [0096]    Additionally, in order to be able to set waistband to the pant, formula  34   k  provides for an alteration at top of fly, top of back rise &amp; top of back rise seam. These alterations will match the waist measurements of the body width to the length measurements of the waistband allowing forr stretch while setting. If fabric has a lot of width stretch, formula  34   k  could be changed to allow more stretch of waistband while setting.  
         [0097]    Formula  34   l,  entitled “Master woven pant formula #1 L-75%, W-95%, Apex-20% from W-0% * L-0%” is used when the width of the fabric has more stretch quality than normal.  
         [0098]    While only certain features of the invention have been illustrated and described herein, many modifications, substitutions, changes or equivalents will now occur to those skilled in the art. It is therefore, to be understood that this application is intended to cover all such modifications and changes that fall within the true spirit of the invention.