Abstract:
A belay device includes a body having (i) a channel configured to receive a rope and (ii) a notched bottom. The channel includes a groove swept along an arced path in an upper portion of the channel opposite the notched bottom. The groove is configured to restrain movement of the rope when the rope is placed into contact with sides of the groove. The notched bottom includes a notch. The belay device is configured so that the notch in the notched bottom receives a portion of a carabiner in order to pinch the rope between the notched bottom and the carabiner in response to tension on the rope. The notch could extend upward from a bottom of the belay device towards an end of the groove located along a side of the belay device.

Description:
CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION AND PRIORITY CLAIM  
       [0001]    This application claims priority under 35 U.S.C. §119(e) to U.S. Provisional Patent Application No. 61/562,966 filed on Nov. 22, 2011. This provisional patent application is hereby incorporated by reference. 
     
    
     TECHNICAL FIELD  
       [0002]    This disclosure relates generally to climbing equipment for rock climbers or other climbers. More specifically, this disclosure relates to a belay device for climbers and a related system and method. 
       BACKGROUND  
       [0003]    Belay devices are routinely used to help protect rock climbers and other climbers. A climber often wears a harness that is attached to a rope. The rope extends from the climber over or through a support structure and then down to another person called a belayer below the climber, where the rope is run through a belay device attached to a harness of the belayer. As the climber climbs, the belayer holds the rope in a position where the rope moves relatively easily through the belay device. This allows the climber to ascend and pull the rope through the belay device. If the climber begins to fall, however, friction from the belayer&#39;s hands and the belay device stops or prevents movement of the rope. In this way, the climber can be protected from long falls. 
       SUMMARY  
       [0004]    This disclosure provides a belay device for climbers and a related system and method 
         [0005]    In a first embodiment, a belay device includes a body having (i) a channel configured to receive a rope and (ii) a notched bottom. The channel includes a groove swept along an arced path in an upper portion of the channel opposite the notched bottom. The groove is configured to restrain movement of the rope when the rope is placed into contact with sides of the groove. The notched bottom includes a notch. The belay device is configured so that the notch in the notched bottom receives a portion of a carabiner in order to pinch the rope between the notched bottom and the carabiner in response to tension on the rope. 
         [0006]    In a second embodiment, a system includes a carabiner configured to be connected to a harness and a belay device configured to be connected to the carabiner. The belay device includes a body having (i) a channel configured to receive a rope and (ii) a notched bottom. The channel includes a groove swept along an arced path in an upper portion of the channel opposite the notched bottom. The groove is configured to restrain movement of the rope when the rope is placed into contact with sides of the groove. The notched bottom includes a notch. The belay device is configured so that the notch in the notched bottom receives a portion of the carabiner in order to pinch the rope between the notched bottom and the carabiner in response to tension on the rope. 
         [0007]    In a third embodiment, a method includes coupling a carabiner to a belay device. The belay device has (i) a channel configured to receive a rope and (ii) a notched bottom including a notch. The method also includes running the rope through the channel of the belay device. The channel includes a groove swept along an arced path in an upper portion of the channel opposite the notched bottom. The groove is configured to restrain movement of the rope when the rope is placed into contact with sides of the groove. The method further includes, when tension is placed on the rope, receiving a portion of the carabiner in the notch of the notched bottom in order to pinch the rope between the notched bottom and the carabiner. 
         [0008]    Other technical features may be readily apparent to one skilled in the art from the following figures, descriptions, and claims. 
     
    
     
       BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS  
         [0009]    For a more complete understanding of this disclosure and its features, reference is now made to the following description, taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which: 
           [0010]      FIGS. 1 and 2  illustrate an example system used by a belayer according to this disclosure; 
           [0011]      FIGS. 3A through 3I  illustrate details of an example belay device according to this disclosure; and 
           [0012]      FIGS. 4A ,  4 B, and  5  illustrate additional details of an example belay device according to this disclosure. 
       
    
    
     DETAILED DESCRIPTION  
       [0013]      FIGS. 1 through 5 , discussed below, and the various embodiments used to describe the principles of the present invention in this patent document are by way of illustration only and should not be construed in any way to limit the scope of the invention. Those skilled in the art will understand that the principles of the invention may be implemented in any type of suitably arranged device or system. 
         [0014]      FIGS. 1 and 2  illustrate an example system  100  used by a belayer according to this disclosure. As shown in  FIG. 1 , the system  100  can be used by a belayer to support a rock climber or other climber. In this example, the system  100  includes a harness  102  worn by the belayer. The harness  102  includes a loop  104 , which couples the harness  102  to other equipment used by the belayer. The harness  102  represents any suitable harness that can be worn by a user. The loop  104  represents any suitable structure that can connect a harness to additional climbing equipment. 
         [0015]    In this example, the additional climbing equipment includes a carabiner  106  connected to a belay device  108 . The carabiner  106  generally represents a metal or other loop having at least one spring-loaded or other type of gate. The belay device  108  receives a rope  110  that loops through one channel of the belay device  108 , around the carabiner  106 , and back through another channel of the belay device  108 . As noted above, as a climber climbs, the belayer can hold the rope  110  in a position where the rope  110  moves relatively easily through the belay device  108 . If the climber begins to fall, the belay device  108  stops or prevents movement of the rope  110 , arresting the climber&#39;s fall. 
         [0016]    As rope technology has evolved, currently-marketed belay devices for climbing have developed shortcomings in functionality and convenience. Rope diameters have steadily decreased, which in general causes a reduction in the stopping power of conventional belay devices. Most “twin-tube” style belay devices work by multiplying an amount of friction provided by the belayer&#39;s hand to generate force in order to arrest a falling climber or hold a climber stationary. Factors like smaller rope diameters, dry rope treatments, and heavier climbers all contribute to a higher demand on the belay hand&#39;s contribution of force. While some belayers choose to use leather gloves for this reason, many do not. This can cause issues in both convenience and safety. For example, extra friction on a belayer&#39;s hand can generate heat very quickly. This can vary from being uncomfortable to causing injury, creating an increased risk of dropping the rope and thus the climber. 
         [0017]    In accordance with this disclosure, an improved belay device  108  is provided. By changing the geometry of standard belay devices, the improved belay device  108  allows the device  108  itself to generate nearly all of the required friction to stop a falling climber or hold a stationary climber. For example, as described below, the belay device  108  includes “V” shaped grooves for restraining movement of the rope  110 . By using a smaller included angle and a taller height for the rope “V” groove and sweeping this “V” groove through an arc encourages the rope  110  to be drawn deeper into the “V” groove of the belay device  108 , thus increasing surface contact area, constrictive force, and frictional force. In some embodiments, the belayer can simply guide the rope  110  into as much or as little of the “V” groove as desired to set the friction amount. 
         [0018]    Also, by using a smooth “V” groove (as opposed to grooves with teeth as is commonly used), device wear is not concentrated on a very small area. Rather than wearing these teeth down quickly, wear in the belay device  108  can be dispersed evenly over a larger area, thereby improving the belay device&#39;s working lifespan and consistency of function. 
         [0019]    In addition, by notching the bottom surface of the belay device  108 , this design makes use of forces internal to the belay device-carabiner system, redirecting them to further increase friction. When a climber falls or hangs on the rope  110 , the rope tension pulls the carabiner  106  into the bottom surface of the belay device  108 . Instead of these two components simply meeting in compression, the notched bottom of the belay device  108  causes the carabiner  106  to cam forward. This drives the rope  110  into the belay device  108 , generating additional friction. Effectively, the carabiner  106  pinches the rope  110  between itself and the belay device  108 . The amount of additional friction is proportional to the rope tension force, meaning it adds friction on demand. As a result, additional friction from the notch&#39;s cam effect may only be added in the event of substantial rope tension, such as when the climber falls. This ensures that smooth operation is not impeded during normal rope feeding operations. An example of this is shown in  FIG. 2 , where the carabiner  106  has been pulled into contact with the belay device  108 , pinching the rope  110 . 
         [0020]    In  FIG. 1 , the rope  110  is held in a “rope feeding” position, where the climber can pull the rope  110  through the belay device  108  relatively easily. In that case, the belay device  108  is naturally separated from the carabiner  106  due to a tapered channel shape for the belay device  108 . In  FIG. 2 , however, one end of the carabiner  106  has been pulled into notches  114  on the bottom surface of the belay device  108 . As can be seen here, the notches  114  extend upward from the bottom of the belay device  108  and outward away from the belayer. This helps to lock the rope  110  in place and to prevent the climber from falling or falling very far. Note that the rope  110  could be formed from any suitable material(s) and could have any suitable thickness. 
         [0021]    The belay device  108  further includes a metal or other loop  116  that connects the belay device  108  to the carabiner  106 . This loop  116  can help to keep the belay device  108  from moving too far away from the carabiner  106 . 
         [0022]      FIGS. 3A through 3I  illustrate details of an example belay device  108  according to this disclosure. In particular,  FIGS. 3A through 3I  illustrate several graphical views of one embodiment of the belay device  108 .  FIGS. 3A through 3C  illustrate the belay device  108  from above.  FIGS. 3D through 3F  illustrate the belay device  108  from the side.  FIGS. 3G through 3I  illustrate the belay device  108  from below. 
         [0023]    The belay device  108  here includes a body having two “tubes” or channels  302   a - 302   b  through which the rope  110  can be inserted. Parts of these channels  302   a - 302   b  are arched, having a swept arc  304  along the upper portions of these channels  302   a - 302   b.  The channels  302   a - 302   b  also include “V” shaped grooves  306  located along the arced portions of the channels  302   a - 302   b  and at the ends of the channels  302   a - 302   b.  These ends are opposite a notched bottom  308  of the belay device  108  and are located along a side of the channels  302   a - 302   b.  The notched bottom  308  includes the notches  114  in multiple surfaces of the belay device  108 . In addition, portions  310  of the belay device  108  across from the arced portions of the channels  302   a - 302   b  are opened to expose the arced portions of the channels  302   a - 302   b.  As can be seen here, the notches  114  extend upward from the bottom of the belay device  108  and outward towards the ends of the grooves  306 . 
         [0024]    As noted above, the “V” shaped grooves  306  are used to produce friction for slowing or holding the rope  110  in place, while the notched bottom  308  can engage with the carabiner  106  to provide additional friction. The “V” shaped grooves  306  here are taller and smoother than conventional belay devices to provide increased control and less wear. 
         [0025]      FIGS. 4A ,  4 B, and  5  illustrate additional details of an example belay device  108  according to this disclosure.  FIGS. 4A and 4B  illustrate the belay device  108  of  FIGS. 3A through 3I  compared to several conventional belay devices. In  FIGS. 4A and 4B , the belay device  108  from  FIGS. 3A through 3I  is shown with two conventional belay devices  402 - 404 . As can be seen in  FIG. 4A , the “V” shaped grooves  306  of the belay device  108  have a greater height than corresponding grooves  406 - 408  in the conventional belay devices  402 - 404 . Moreover, as can be seen in  FIGS. 4A and 4B , the “V” shaped grooves  306  of the belay device  108  have generally straight (or slightly curved) sides  410  without teeth, while the grooves  406 - 408  in the conventional belay devices  402 - 404  have teeth  412 . As noted above, the lack of teeth can help to lengthen the operational lifespan of the belay device  108  since the teeth  412  in the conventional belay devices  402 - 404  can become worn over time. In addition, the belay device  108  includes longer channels  302   a - 302   b  for receiving the rope  110 . 
         [0026]      FIG. 5  illustrates a comparison of the operations performed by the belay device  108  and the conventional belay devices  402 - 404 . As shown here, the belay device  108  forces the rope  110  to have a more elongated cross-section as the rope  110  travels through the “V” shaped groove  306  of the belay device  108 . The conventional belay devices  402 - 404  allow rope to maintain more of a circular cross-section. Because the rope  110  in the groove  306  of the belay device  108  has a larger area of contact with the belay device  108 , this indicates that there can be greater friction between the belay device  108  and the rope  110  compared to the conventional belay devices  402 - 404 . As a result, the belay device  108  can be used to arrest a falling climber or hold a climber stationary more easily. 
         [0027]    Although  FIGS. 1 through 5  have illustrated an example system  100  used by a belayer and an example belay device  108 , various changes may be made to  FIGS. 1 through 5 . For example, the belay device  108  could have any suitable dimensions and could be formed from any suitable material(s) (such as steel or aluminum). In particular embodiments, the belay device  108  can be formed through a process of forging or casting of an aluminum alloy followed by application of an anodized coating, which could be ideal for strength, wear, corrosion resistance, and aesthetics. Also, various features of the belay device  108  (such as the notched bottom or arched side) could have any suitable shape. 
         [0028]    It should also be noted that while the belay device  108  has been shown and described as being used by a belayer to help protect a climber, the twin-tube design also allows the belay device  108  to function as a rappel device, as well. This allows one person to descend with control from a fixed anchor. Many belay devices are built in this way. It should be noted, however, that a single-tube model (which would be lighter and more compact) would still offer most or all of the benefits and belay functionality described above with respect to the twin-tube design. Many of the features described above could therefore be incorporated into a single-tube design or any other suitable design. 
         [0029]    It may be advantageous to set forth definitions of certain words and phrases used throughout this patent document. The terms “include” and “comprise,” as well as derivatives thereof, mean inclusion without limitation. The term “or” is inclusive, meaning and/or. The phrase “associated with,” as well as derivatives thereof, may mean to include, be included within, interconnect with, contain, be contained within, connect to or with, couple to or with, be communicable with, cooperate with, interleave, juxtapose, be proximate to, be bound to or with, have, have a property of, have a relationship to or with, or the like. The term “elongated” refers to a shape where length/height is greater than width. 
         [0030]    While this disclosure has described certain embodiments and generally associated methods, alterations and permutations of these embodiments and methods will be apparent to those skilled in the art. Accordingly, the above description of example embodiments does not define or constrain this disclosure. Other changes, substitutions, and alterations are also possible without departing from the spirit and scope of this disclosure, as defined by the following claims.