Abstract:
An exemplary system and method for providing a jewelry setting is disclosed as comprising a first gemstone in an array of gemstones generally retained at a girdle by fasteners that hold the girdles of at least a second and a third gemstone of a plurality of gemstones that surround the first gemstone. Disclosed features and specifications may be optionally controlled, adapted or otherwise modified to improve the retention of gemstones in a variety of gemstone settings. Exemplary embodiments of the present invention generally provide improved aesthetic presentation and mechanical retention of gemstones in a gemstone setting.

Description:
RELATED APPLICATIONS  
       [0001]     This application claims priority to U.S. Provisional Patent Application Ser. No. 60/543,118 filed in the United States Patent and Trademark Office on Feb. 9, 2004 by Shishir B. Nevatia and Kapil S. Nevatia. 
     
    
     FIELD OF INVENTION  
       [0002]     The present invention generally concerns articles of jewelry; and more particularly, in various representative and exemplary embodiments, to methods of mounting and retaining gemstones on articles of jewelry.  
       BACKGROUND  
       [0003]     The desirability to reduce the dependence of manufacturers of jewelry, having gems set in precious metal, on the high-priced labor of skilled gem-setters has long been recognized. One method utilizes a lost wax process for manufacturing jewelry by forming a rubber mold in which a wax model is cast to accommodate the gem and positioning the latter in the rubber mold prior to closing the mold and injecting the wax. The wax model bearing the gem set therein is thereafter removed from the rubber mold and encased in the investment so that, after replacement of the wax by precious metal in accordance with the lost wax procedure, the cast article is removed from the investment mold with the gem preset in the metal and thereby eliminating the step of setting the gem in cast metal.  
         [0004]     A conventional method of melting and removing the wax model and curing the investment mold preparatory to casting the precious metal therein may be performed in an oven under reduced pressure and typically involves increasing the temperature by uniform increments to 700 degrees Celsius over 14 hours to substantially remove moisture and provide a hard, smooth interior mold surface against which the metal is cast. Other methods suggest that preheating or curing the investment mold may be accomplished in as little as 4 hours at temperatures generally not in excess of 500 degrees Celsius.  
         [0005]     In attempting to achieve the result of eliminating the need for a skilled gem-setter to complete the manufacture of an article of jewelry, certain methods have been found to be inadequate in two respects, namely: (1) in the manner the gem is set in the wax model; and (2) the suggested procedure for curing the investment mold prior to casting the precious metal.  
         [0006]     As to the first inadequacy, the step of positioning the gem as an insert in an open rubber mold and then closing the mold with a high degree of care, so as not to displace the gem prior to injecting the wax, has been found not only to be relatively time consuming, but also unreliable; particularly when the jewelry design utilizes several relatively small gems in each setting. Furthermore, any improper positioning of the gem during the molding of the wax model may not be apparent until after the model is removed from the mold. Other imperfections in the wax model generally require removal of the gems before discarding the defective model. Such complications contribute to what is generally regarded as an unacceptable efficiency rate at this stage of the manufacturing process.  
         [0007]     As to the second inadequacy, by limiting the curing of the investment material to a period of 4 hours at temperatures not in excess of 500 degrees Celsius (generally promoted to prevent damage to the gems now retained in the investment mold after removal of the wax), the reduction in moisture content and hardening of the investment material has been found to be insufficient to enable the investment mold to withstand the injection of molten metal which damages important areas of the mold, thereby resulting in defective and unacceptable castings.  
         [0008]     The prior art is replete with descriptions of jewel configurations for holding a plurality of gemstones in a way that provides the appearance of larger or more gemstones than are in the array. One design fastens a plurality of gemstones around and over the edge of the crown of a larger gemstone to give the appearance of one large stone. This is generally visually effective, but risks damage to the contacting edges of the gems. Accordingly, there is a need to provide nearly the same visual effect that may be generally obtained utilizing smaller stones while protecting the stones by holding their edges with material that is generally softer than the gemstones.  
       SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION  
       [0009]     In various representative aspects, the present invention provides a jewelry setting in which a first gemstone in an array of gemstones is substantially retained at a girdle by fasteners that each substantially retain the girdles of at least two other gemstones of a plurality of gemstones that surround the first gemstone. Advantages of the present invention will be set forth in the Detailed Description which follows and may be obvious from the Detailed Description or may be learned by practice of exemplary embodiments of the invention. Still other advantages of the invention may be realized by means of any of the instrumentalities, methods or combinations particularly pointed out in the claims. 
     
    
     BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS  
       [0010]     Representative elements, operational features, applications and/or advantages of the present invention reside in the details of construction and operation as more fully hereafter depicted, described and claimed—reference being made to the accompanying drawings forming a part hereof, wherein like numerals refer to like parts throughout. Other elements, operational features, applications and/or advantages may become apparent in light of certain exemplary embodiments recited in the Detailed Description, wherein:  
         [0011]      FIG. 1  generally illustrates a front view of a gemstone or jewel in accordance with a representative and exemplary embodiment of the present invention;  
         [0012]      FIG. 2  generally depicts a front and top perspective view of a jewelry apparatus in accordance with a representative and exemplary embodiment of the present invention;  
         [0013]      FIG. 3  generally illustrates a top schematic view of the jewelry apparatus generally depicted in  FIG. 2 , in accordance with a representative and exemplary embodiment of the present invention;  
         [0014]      FIG. 4  generally illustrates a front and top perspective view of the jewelry apparatus generally depicted in  FIG. 2  without the gemstones, in accordance with a representative and exemplary embodiment of the present invention;  
         [0015]      FIG. 5  generally illustrates a cross-section schematic view of the jewelry apparatus generally depicted in  FIG. 3  containing only the center stone (taken along  5 - 5 ), in accordance with a representative and exemplary embodiment of the present invention;  
         [0016]      FIG. 6  generally illustrates a front and top perspective view of the jewelry apparatus generally depicted in  FIG. 2  containing only the center stone, in accordance with a representative and exemplary embodiment of the present invention;  
         [0017]      FIG. 7  generally illustrates a front view of a portion of the jewelry apparatus generally depicted in  FIG. 3  (taken along and confined to  7 - 7 ), in accordance with a representative and exemplary embodiment of the present invention;  
         [0018]      FIG. 8  generally illustrates a cross-section schematic view of the jewelry apparatus generally depicted in  FIG. 3  containing the center stone, two side stones that are forward of the center stone, the front side stone not shown (the stones not in cross-section, taken along  8 - 8 ), in accordance with a representative and exemplary embodiment of the present invention; and  
         [0019]      FIG. 9  generally illustrates a front and top perspective view of the jewelry apparatus generally depicted in  FIG. 2  containing the center stone and side stones (taken at the same angle of view as generally depicted in  FIG. 6 ), in accordance with a representative and exemplary embodiment of the present invention. 
     
    
       [0020]     Elements in the Figures are illustrated for simplicity and clarity and have not necessarily been drawn to scale. For example, the dimensions of some of the elements in the Figures may be exaggerated relative to other elements to help improve understanding of various embodiments of the present invention. Furthermore, the terms “first”, “second”, and the like herein, if any, are generally used for distinguishing between similar elements and not necessarily for describing a sequential or chronological order. Moreover, the terms “front”, “back”, “top”, “bottom”, “over”, “under”, and the like, if any, are generally employed for descriptive purposes and not necessarily for comprehensively describing exclusive relative position or order. Any of the preceding terms so used may be interchanged under appropriate circumstances such that various embodiments of the invention described herein, for example, are capable of operation in orientations and environments other than those explicitly illustrated or otherwise described.  
       DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EXEMPLARY EMBODIMENTS  
       [0021]     The following descriptions are of exemplary embodiments of the invention and the inventors&#39; conception of the best mode and are not intended to limit the scope, applicability or configuration of the invention in any way. Rather, the following description is intended to provide convenient illustrations for implementing various embodiments of the invention. As will become apparent, changes may be made in the function and/or arrangement of any of the elements described in the disclosed exemplary embodiments without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.  
         [0022]     As generally depicted in  FIG. 1 , gemstone  20  typically comprises table  24 , crown  26 , girdle  28 , pavilion  30 , culet  32 , upper facets  34  above the girdle, and lower facets  36  below the girdle.  
         [0023]     With reference to  FIGS. 2 and 3 , center gemstone  40  and six side gemstones  20  may be mounted on platform  44  of apparatus  50 . Gemstone  40  is generally larger than gemstone  20 .  
         [0024]     With reference to  FIGS. 2-8 , girdle  52  of gemstone  40  generally extends substantially radially outward from axis  54  into substantially radially inward open recesses  56  in bars  58 , which generally extend vertically from platform  44 . Recesses  56  may be optionally shaped complimentary to the girdle so that they closely fit the girdle. Walls  60 ,  62  are generally angled to fit portions of the crown and pavilion so that walls  60 ,  62  on the six bars  58  substantially retain gemstone  40  and prevent removal of stone  40  from the platform and rattling of the stone  40  on the platform.  
         [0025]     Bars  58  may be optionally unitary and/or molded in one piece with platform  44 . In a preferred representative embodiment of the present invention, recess  56  generally positions the stone so that the coulet and lower portion of the pavilion generally extends into opening  68  that generally extends through platform  44 , and the pavilion is typically concentric and in effective contact with sloped annular wall  66  and is suitably spaced from cylindrical wall  70  of opening  68  in platform  44 . This may be more easily seen, for example, in  FIG. 5 , where wall  62  of recess  56  is substantially continuous on a straight line with sloped annular wall  66 .  
         [0026]     In another arrangement, in which bar  58  is spaced substantially radially outward from sloped annular wall  66 , wall  62  of the groove is substantially discontinuous with sloped annular wall  66  so that the pavilion of the stone effectively contacts walls  62  and is suitably spaced from wall  66 .  
         [0027]     Each gemstone  20  may be generally mounted on the platform in the same way as the other gemstones  20 . For brevity, the instant description generally refers to one gemstone  20  mounting, but may be suitably adapted to provide a system and method for the mounting of a plurality of gemstones.  
         [0028]     Girdle  28  of gemstone  20  generally extends substantially radially outward from axis  72  into recesses  76  in two bars  58 , and generally extends substantially radially outward from axis  72  into recesses  78  in two bars  80 . Bars  80  may be preferably unitary and/or molded in one piece with platform  44 . Recesses  78 , walls  82 ,  84  and the walls of recess  76  may be preferably suitably angled substantially parallel to portions of the crown and pavilion so that they closely fit the girdle. Recess  76  and  78  generally retain the stone and prevent rattling and removal of gemstone  20  from the platform.  
         [0029]     Bar  58 , comprising at least two recesses  76 , may be spaced  100  substantially radially outward from sloped annular wall  96  of opening  94 . Bar  80  may be disposed at the edge of sloped annular wall  96 . The depths of grooves may be varied so that the gemstone is generally retained by the grooves substantially concentric with opening  94  that generally extends through platform  44  and is suitably spaced from cylindrical wall  98  of opening  94 .  
         [0030]     As generally depicted, for example in  FIG. 8 , girdles  28  and  52  may be configured for disposition in the same plane  104 . Table  106  of gemstone  40  may be generally higher than tables  24  of gemstones  20 . Gemstone  40  generally extends lower in cavity  108  formed by opening  68  and the stone, than gemstones  20  in cavities  110  fanned by openings  94  and gemstones  20 .  
         [0031]     With reference now to  FIG. 3 , looking at the top of apparatus  50  having the stones mounted, one can see bars  58 . Each stone is generally retained so that it may not be removed regardless of how many stones or which other stone is mounted on the platform.  
         [0032]     With reference to  FIG. 7 , viewing the cluster of mounted gemstones from one side, outer gemstone and bars  80  and  58  are apparent. Each bar  58  typically retains a portion of the center stone and portions of at least two outer stones.  
         [0033]     In a preferred exemplary and representative embodiment, the platform and bars containing the stones may comprise precious metal. Such precious metals may generally include, but are not necessarily limited to: gold, platinum, silver, and combinations thereof. One bar, or any number of bars  58  and  80 , may be mounted on the platform by pinning, brazing, screwing or such other methods now known, or otherwise hereafter described, in the art for fastening a bar to a platform. Fasteners including clips and prongs that can grip more than one gemstone around a substantially vertical axis of the fastener may also be used to at least partially retain tile gemstones in the arrangements described vide supra. The tops of the bars or fasteners may be tinted or highly polished so that they reflect light and enhance the radiance of the gemstone.  
         [0034]     A preferred representative and exemplary method for making an apparatus in accordance with the present invention generally includes the steps of: 
        a. constructing a master model of the apparatus less gemstones;     b. making a rubber mold of the master model;     c. injecting wax into the rubber mold, and extracting the hardened wax piece from the rubber mold;     d. disposing gemstone  40  into opening  68  until girdle  52  of the stone engages recesses  56  on bars  58 ;     e. disposing the six other stones  20  into openings  94  until girdle  28  of the stone engages recesses  76  of two bars  58 , and recesses  78  of two bars  80 ;     f: putting the entire wax and stone piece into a container and adding investment material which hardens;     g. heating to about 600 degrees Celsius, eliminating the wax from the container;     h. injecting metal, allowing the metal to harden, removing the molded piece from the container, and breaking away the investment material.        
 
         [0043]     In another representative and exemplary method for making apparatus  50 , one may omit the recesses which could be introduced by the master model, or which could be cut in the wax piece, and using a wax that is resilient, replace steps d, and e, with: 
        i. disposing the gemstones substantially axially into openings  68  and  94  until the stones contact the sloped annular wall.        
 
         [0045]     In another representative and exemplary method for making apparatus  50 , one may omit the recesses which could be introduced by the master model, or which could be cut in the wax piece, and, using a wax that is resilient, replace steps d, and e with: 
        j. disposing the gemstones substantially axially into openings  68  and  94  until the girdle of the stone is at some predetermined height range above the sloped annular wall, and the pavilion is suitably spaced from the opening wall.        
 
         [0047]     In yet another exemplary and representative method for making apparatus  50 , the piece may be cast in metal without synthetic gems, and the gems engaged into recesses  56 ,  76  and  78  on the cleaned and polished piece.  
         [0048]     In the foregoing specification, the invention has been described with reference to specific exemplary embodiments; however, it will be appreciated that various modifications and changes may be made without departing from the scope of the present invention as set forth in the claims below. The specification and Figures are to be regarded in an illustrative manner, rather than a restrictive one and all such modifications are intended to be included within the scope of the present invention. Accordingly, the scope of the invention should be determined by the claims appended hereto and their legal equivalents rather than by merely the examples described above. For example, the steps recited in any method or process claims may be executed in any order and are not limited to the specific order presented in the claims. Additionally, the components and/or elements recited in any device claims may be assembled or otherwise operationally configured in a variety of permutations to produce substantially the same result as the present invention and are accordingly not limited to the specific configuration recited in the claims.  
         [0049]     Benefits, other advantages and solutions to problems have been described above with regard to particular embodiments; however, any benefit, advantage, solution to problems or any element that may cause any particular benefit, advantage or solution to occur or to become more pronounced are not to be construed as critical, required or essential features or components of any or all the claims.  
         [0050]     As used herein, the terms “comprises”, “comprising”, or any variation thereof, are intended to reference a non-exclusive inclusion, such that a process, method, article, composition or apparatus that comprises a list of elements does not include only those elements recited, but may also include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such process, method, article, composition or apparatus. Other combinations and/or modifications of the above-described structures, arrangements, applications, proportions, elements, materials or components used in the practice of the present invention, in addition to those not specifically recited, may be varied or otherwise particularly adapted by those skilled in the art to specific environments, manufacturing specifications, design parameters or other operating requirements without departing from the general principles of the same.