Abstract:
An improved encasement for underwires for use in brassieres that allow for more efficient sewing, better durability, and improved wearer comfort is disclosed.

Description:
CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS 
     The present application is a continuation of U.S. patent application Ser. No. 12/850,173, filed Aug. 4, 2010, which application claims the benefit of the filing date of U.S. Provisional Patent Application No. 61/232,118 filed Aug. 7, 2009, the disclosures of which are hereby incorporated herein by reference. 
    
    
     FIELD OF THE TECHNOLOGY 
     The present invention generally relates to methods for encasing underwires for brassieres and manufacturing brassieres with such encased underwires. The improved methods for encasing such underwires minimizes the manufacturing time required to encase underwires, minimizes the time to manufacture brassieres made with such encased underwires, and minimizes the likelihood that such an underwire will poke through the encasing material. 
     BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
     The use of underwires in brassieres is well known in the prior art. Common complaints from wearers of underwire brassieres include poor fit, pinching due to the interaction of the underwire and fabric components of the brassiere, and the need to dispose of such a brassiere because the underwire has poked through the fabric encasing the underwire. It is an objective of the present invention to provide an improved brassiere that overcomes the foregoing and other shortcomings of the prior art. 
     A need exists for improvement in the field of brassieres that incorporate underwires and the methods for encasing such underwires and manufacturing brassieres using such underwires. This and other needs are addressed by one or more aspects of the present invention. 
     There are numerous methods for encasing underwires, and numerous methods for affixing such encased underwires to brassiere cups and/or the fabric belt of the brassiere. Regardless of the methods used, there is a tendency for the ends of the underwire to poke through the encasing fabric and for the underwire to break the stitching that keeps the underwire encased. While the cups and belt of such a brassiere may remain in wearable condition, the damage caused by the underwire often causes the wearer to discard the brassiere prematurely. 
     Typical prior art underwires are sewn into a brassiere after the remainder of the brassiere is assembled. That is, the fabric belt is typically assembled first, the cups (if separate) are sewn in next, and then a sandwich comprising a layer of lining fabric, an underwire, and a backing fabric are sewn to the fabric belt. The sewing starts with a bar-tack at the top (shoulder strap attachment point) of the belt, and then the sandwich is stitched to the bottom of the belt and a cup using a double needle sewing machine. The stitching proceeds towards the center of the belt. 
     The above sewing means results in several points where the finished garment is fairly thick due to the number of fabric components and the number of stitching operations. This can create bulges and inflexible fabric bunching, which can be unsightly and uncomfortable for the wearer. It is therefore an objective of the present invention to minimize the number of sewing operations to minimize cost, reduce fabric waste, and allow for the manufacture of brassieres that are more attractive and more comfortable. Prior art underwires are also prone to poke through the fabric encasement due to the interaction of the underwire, its encasing fabric, and the related stitching, as the wearer&#39;s breasts move during normal motion. Such movement can cause the underwire to abrade the encasing fabric and stitching, eventually causing the encasement to fail and the underwire to poke through. The uncovered end of the underwire can be very uncomfortable for the wearer and can create unsightly bulges under the wearer&#39;s clothing. The result is that the wearer typically will discard an otherwise useable brassiere. The encased underwire of the present invention is encased in a fabric enclosure or tube, said tube being closed longitudinally with a single stitched edge, prior to assembly with the remaining components of a brassiere. 
     An objective of the present invention is to provide an underwire that is fully encased in a fabric enclosure as a separate assembly. The encased underwire of the present invention may have a fabric extension or tab at each end that can be easily sewn in to the top or center of a brassiere belt. It is a further objective of the present invention to provide an encased underwire that is sealed at each end, thereby eliminating the need to bar-tack the ends to the belt of a brassiere belt. 
     It is a further objective of the present invention to provide an encased underwire that can be sewn into the belt of a brassiere starting from the center and ending at the back. 
     SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
     The underwire of the present invention accomplishes the above objectives as described below. 
     A first aspect of the present invention is a method of manufacturing an underwire assembly for attachment to other components of a brassiere, the underwire assembly including a fabric layer and an underwire. The method comprises creating a fabric enclosure having a sealed side and first and second open ends by bringing together opposite side ends of the fabric layer and fastening the opposite side ends to one another substantially along a length thereof. The method further comprises inserting the underwire into the first open end of the fabric enclosure and continuing to pass the underwire through the fabric enclosure until a first end and a second end of the underwire are completely housed within the fabric enclosure. The method further comprises sealing the first and second open ends of the fabric enclosure such that the underwire is encased within the sealed side and first and second sealed ends of the fabric enclosure. 
     In one embodiment of the first aspect of the present invention, the opposite side ends of the fabric layer are fastened together by stitching. In another embodiment of the first aspect of the present invention the opposite side ends of the fabric layer are fastened together by adhesive. In yet another embodiment of the first aspect of the present invention the opposite side ends of the fabric layer are fastened together by ultrasonic welding. 
     In one embodiment of the first aspect of the present invention sealing the first and second open ends of the fabric enclosure creates first and second extension ends extending outwardly from the first and second sealed ends of the fabric enclosure respectively. The method further includes attaching the first extension end to a second portion of the brassiere and the second extension end to a third portion of the brassiere to further secure the underwire assembly to the brassiere. 
     In another embodiment of the first aspect of the present invention includes attaching a side of the fabric enclosure opposite the sealed side substantially along a length of the side to a first portion of the brassiere in order to secure the fabric enclosure to the brassiere with the sealed side facing away from the side being attached to the brassiere. 
     In yet another embodiment of the first aspect of the present invention, sealing the first and second open ends of the fabric enclosure seals the inner fabric layer substantially around the first and second ends of the underwire. 
     In still yet another embodiment of the first aspect of the present invention, sealing the first open end of the fabric enclosure creates a first space between the first end of the underwire and the sealed first end of the fabric enclosure and a second space between the second end of the underwire and the sealed second end of the fabric enclosure. 
     In one embodiment of a second aspect of the present invention, an underwire is encased in a fabric enclosure or tube. The fabric tube may be formed by laminating a lining layer, such as a layer of polyester tricot, to a second fabric layer made of any suitable material. The two fabric layers may be laminated by an adhesive, by a film, or by other means. The laminated fabric is preferably wrapped around the underwire with the lining layer facing the underwire, and the second layer facing outwards. The tube is then closed longitudinally about the underwire by stitching the edges by conventional means. The ends of the tube are then closed by sealing each end along a sealing area. A small gap may be left between the ends of the underwire and the sealing area to account for longitudinal shrinkage of the fabric tube. The ends may be sealed by an adhesive, by ultrasonic welding, by RF welding, or other similar means. Sealing the ends in this manner ensures that the sealed ends are smoother due to the low profile as compared to a prior art underwire that uses a folded fabric and a bar-tack sewing stitch. An extension or tab of fabric is preferably left at each end of the assembled encased underwire. The tabs are then used to further secure the underwire assembly to the brassiere belt. The underwire of the present invention may be sewn into the brassiere belt prior to completion of the sewing steps that create the top and back of the belt. The fabric tabs of the encased underwire can therefore be easily hidden under the top and back trim tapes of the brassiere belt during the sewing steps that are employed to complete the assembly of the belt. 
    
    
     
       BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS 
       One or more preferred embodiments of the present invention will now be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings, wherein the same elements are referred to with the same reference numerals. 
         FIG. 1  is a perspective view showing an inner fabric layer laminated to an outer fabric layer for use with the present invention. 
         FIG. 2  is a front view of a prior art encased underwire. 
         FIG. 3  is a front view of one embodiment of an underwire encased in a fabric enclosure of the present invention. 
         FIG. 4  is a cutaway view of one end of an encased underwire of the present invention. 
         FIG. 5  is a perspective view of a partially formed fabric enclosure showing the beginning of a sealed side of the fabric enclosure. 
         FIG. 6  is a perspective view of an underwire just before being received by an open end of a fabric enclosure. 
         FIG. 7  is a partial cross-sectional view taken along line A-A shown in  FIG. 6  of an underwire having passed through a first open end of a fabric enclosure and partially contained within the fabric enclosure. 
         FIG. 8  is a cross-sectional front view of one embodiment of an underwire assembly of the present invention shown an underwire completely housed within a fabric enclosure. 
         FIG. 9  is a cross-sectional front view of a portion of the underwire assembly shown in  FIG. 8  having a sealed end around an end of an underwire. 
         FIG. 10  is a cross-sectional front view of a portion of another embodiment of an underwire assembly of the present invention having a curved sealed end adjacent an end of an underwire. 
         FIG. 11  is a cross-sectional front view of a portion of another embodiment of an underwire assembly of the present invention having an alternative curved sealed end adjacent an end of an underwire. 
         FIG. 12  is a partial cross-sectional front view of a portion of another embodiment of an underwire assembly of the present invention having an identification marker located on a sealed end of a fabric enclosure. 
     
    
    
     DETAILED DESCRIPTION 
     As a preliminary matter, it will readily be understood by one having ordinary skill in the relevant art (an “Ordinary Artisan”) that the present invention has broad utility and application. Furthermore, any embodiment discussed and identified as being “preferred” is considered to be part of a best mode contemplated for carrying out the present invention. Other embodiments also may be discussed for additional illustrative purposes in providing a full and enabling disclosure of the present invention. Moreover, many embodiments, such as adaptations, variations, modifications, and equivalent arrangements, will be implicitly disclosed by the embodiments described herein and fall within the scope of the present invention. 
     Accordingly, while the present invention is described herein in detail in relation to one or more embodiments, it is to be understood that this disclosure is illustrative and exemplary of the present invention, and is made merely for the purposes of providing a full and enabling disclosure of the present invention. The detailed disclosure herein of one or more embodiments is not intended to, nor is to be construed to, limit the scope of patent protection afforded the present invention, which scope is to be defined by the claims and the equivalents thereof. It is not intended that the scope of patent protection afforded the present invention be defined by reading into any claim a limitation found herein that does not explicitly appear in the claim itself. 
     Thus, for example, any sequence(s) and/or temporal order of steps of various processes or methods that are described herein are illustrative and not restrictive. Accordingly, it should be understood that, although steps of various processes or methods may be shown and described as being in a sequence or temporal order, the steps of any such processes or methods are not limited to being carried out in any particular sequence or order, absent an indication otherwise. Indeed, the steps in such processes or methods generally may be carried out in various different sequences and orders while still falling within the scope of the present invention. Accordingly, it is intended that the scope of patent protection afforded the present invention is to be defined by the appended claims rather than the description set forth herein. 
     Referring now to the drawings, one or more embodiments of the present invention are described. The following description of one or more embodiments is merely exemplary in nature and is in no way intended to limit the invention, its implementations, or uses. 
       FIG. 1  shows a laminated fabric  3  comprising an inner or lining layer  1  laminated by some means to an outer layer  2 . Lining layer  1  is typically made from a tricot material or other suitable lining, and allows the underwire to move against the lining without snagging the outer fabric layer  2 . The outer fabric layer  2  can be made from any number of common fabric materials, whether woven or non-woven. 
       FIG. 2  is a front view of a prior art encased underwire. The underwire  21  is shown partially encased by a laminated fabric  3 . The laminated fabric  3  is shown positioned around the underwire  21  as a tube of fabric with the edges  23  facing towards the inner radius of the underwire  21  and the folded (or middle) edge  22  of the fabric facing towards the inner radius of the underwire  21 . The edges  23  are affixed to each other by means of conventional stitching using a sewing machine. 
     When a brassiere incorporating such a prior art encased underwire  21  is worn, the weight of the wearer&#39;s breast generally applies pressure to the interface between the underwire  21  and the stitched edge  23  of the fabric. This pressure may cause abrasion between the underwire  21  and the stitching as the underwire moves with the movement of the wearer&#39;s breast and can cause the stitching to abrade and fail. 
       FIG. 3  is a front view of one embodiment of an underwire encased in a fabric enclosure of the present invention. The underwire  31  is shown partially encased by a laminated fabric  3 . The laminated fabric  3  is shown positioned around the underwire  31  as an enclosure or tube of fabric with the edges  33  facing towards the outer radius of the underwire  31  and the folded (or middle) edge  32  of the fabric facing towards the inner radius of the underwire  31 . The edges  33  can be affixed to each other by means of conventional stitching using a sewing machine or some other sealing method such as ultrasonic sealing, radio-frequency (RF) sealing, adhesive, or other common means. 
     When a brassiere incorporating the underwire  31  of the present invention is worn, the weight of the wearer&#39;s breast generally applies pressure to the interface between the underwire  31  and the folded edge  32  of the fabric. Since there are no stitches at this interface, in contrast to the prior art underwire encasement described in  FIG. 2 , wear is minimized and the underwire  31  cannot cause the stitching to abrade and fail. 
       FIG. 4  is a cutaway view of one end of an encased underwire of the present invention. The underwire  41  is shown as a fabric enclosure or tube  3 . The sealing area  43  is the portion of the fabric tube that closes off an end of the tube. The means for sealing this sealed end  43  can be ultrasonic welding, RF welding, or adhesive sealing, or other non-sewing means. Sealing area  43  can be a straight-sealed seam, or can be u-shaped to conform to the shape of the end of underwire  41 . A distance  42  can be selected to account for shrinkage of the encasing fabric tube  3 , and can be accurately chosen due to the precision of the sealing means employed in the present invention. 
     A conventionally encased underwire, such as underwire  21 , is generally sewn into the encasing fabric during the sewing of the brassiere. The top and back of the brassiere belt are generally completed before the cups and underwires are attached. The end of the encased underwire  21  is typically bar-tacked to the top of the brassiere belt (the top being the attach point for the shoulder strap in the front of the brassiere) and one cup, the underwire is positioned in the fabric tube  3 , and the fabric tube is sewn shut along edges  23  and to a brassiere cup and to the brassiere belt at the same time. This is generally a difficult sewing operation and requires a skilled sewing machine operator to perform. The sewing is made more difficult towards the center of the belt as the two underwires and the cups are in close proximity at this point in the sewing operation, and further limits the types of brassieres that can be sewn on a particular sewing machine. Once the tube is completely sewn along the edges  23 , the end of the tube is bar-tacked to affix the end of the underwire  21  to the brassiere belt and a cup, and to prevent the underwire from being displaced from the fabric tube during use or laundering. The end of the fabric tube is preferably then cut away as scrap, and a finish tape may be applied to cover the cut end. Due to the number of fabric layers and stitching layers at the top edge (the tube bar-tack and the finish tape), the finished garment may be somewhat thick. This can create lumps in the garment and also be uncomfortable for the wearer. 
     The encased underwire  31  of the present invention may be encased prior to the assembly of the underwire and the brassiere cups and belt. A fabric tube of great length may be formed by stitching the edges  33  of fabric  3 . In one embodiment, a fabric tab  44  of a given length can be measured, a first end of the fabric tube can be sealed along a sealing area  42 , and the finished length (accounting for a sealing area  42  and tab  44  at the second end) can be measured and cut. An underwire  41  can be inserted into the tube, and the second end can then be sealed. In another embodiment, a first end of an underwire can be inserted into a first open end of a fabric enclosure until the first end and a second end of the underwire is completely housed within the fabric enclosure. First and second open ends of the fabric enclosure may then be sealed, creating first and second sealed ends. The finished encased underwire assembly can then be attached to the brassiere belt and a cup in a single operation. Since the underwire  41  is pre-encased in an assembly, it can be sewn to the brassiere belt and a cup by starting from the center of the belt and sewing towards the back of the brassiere belt. This is an easier sewing operation and can be performed more quickly than with a prior art underwire. This also minimizes fabric waste, allows for a lower profile stitch, and maximizes sewing efficiency for lower sewing cost. 
       FIGS. 5-8  show one method of manufacturing an underwire assembly  100  for attachment to other components of a brassiere, the underwire assembly  100  including a fabric layer  110  and an underwire  120 .  FIG. 5  is a perspective view of a partially formed fabric enclosure  140  showing the beginning of a sealed side  150  of the fabric enclosure  140 . The fabric enclosure  140  is preferably created by bringing together opposite side ends  141 ,  143  of fabric layer  110  and fastening the opposite side ends  141 ,  143  to one another substantially along a length thereof. The fabric enclosure  140  includes a side  154  opposite sealed side  150 . Fabric enclosure  140  further includes first and second end portions  142 ,  144  having first and second open ends  145 ,  147  respectively. Side  154  is preferably the folded over portion of fabric layer  100 . In order to keep underwire  120  within a desired channel  155  along the length of fabric enclosure  140 , the folded over portion of fabric layer  100  may be fastened by stitching, adhesive, or other fastening means as shown in  FIG. 7 . 
       FIG. 6  is a perspective view of an underwire  120  just before being received by an open end  147  of fabric enclosure  140 . Preferably, underwire  120  is inserted into first open end  147  of fabric enclosure  140  and continues to pass through fabric enclosure  140  as shown in  FIG. 7  until a first end  122  and a second end  124  of the underwire  120  are completely housed within the fabric enclosure  140  as shown in  FIG. 8 . First and second open ends  145 ,  147  of the fabric enclosure  140  such that the underwire  120  is encased within side  154 , sealed side  150  and first and second sealed ends  146 ,  148  of the fabric enclosure  140 . 
     As further shown in  FIG. 8 , opposite side ends  141 ,  143  of fabric layer  140  created sealed side end  150  are fastened together by stitching. Alternatively, opposite side ends  141 ,  143  of fabric layer  140  may be fastened together by adhesive or by ultrasonic welding or other fastening means, for example. 
     Sealing first and second open ends  145 ,  147  of fabric enclosure  140  creates first and second extension ends  160 ,  162  extending outwardly from the first and second sealed ends  146 ,  148  of the fabric enclosure  140  respectively. Sealing the first and second open ends  145 ,  147  of the fabric enclosure  140  seals an inner surface of the fabric layer  100 , now enclosure  140 , substantially around the first and second ends  122 ,  124  of the underwire  120 . In sealing the first open end  145  of the fabric enclosure  140 , a first space  165  is created between the first end  122  of the underwire  120  and the sealed first end  146  of the fabric enclosure  140 . In sealing the second open end  147  of the fabric enclosure  140 , a second space  167  is created between the second end  124  of the underwire  120  and the sealed second end  148  of the fabric enclosure  140 . 
     First and second spaces  165 ,  167  are small gaps left between the ends  122 ,  124  of the underwire  120  and the sealed ends  146 ,  148  to account for longitudinal shrinkage of the fabric enclosure  140  during sealing of sealed ends  146 ,  148 . Based on specifications of the brassiere, the shape, size, and area of first and second spaces  165 ,  167  may be altered. Sealed ends  146 ,  148  may be sealed by an adhesive, by ultrasonic welding, by RF welding, or other similar means. Sealing the ends in this manner preferably ensures that the sealed ends  146 ,  148  are smooth due to the low profile as compared to using a folded fabric and a bar-tack sewing stitch. 
     The shape of inner perimeter  170 ,  172  of sealed ends  146 ,  148  respectively, adjacent first and second ends  122 ,  124  of underwire  120 , is preferably determined by the fastening means used to seal sealed ends  146 ,  148 . As shown in  FIGS. 8 and 9 , inner perimeter  170 ,  172  of sealed ends  146 ,  148  is located around the entire perimeter of first and second ends  122 ,  124  of underwire  120 . Such a shape of inner perimeter  170 ,  172  preferably keeps the ends  122 ,  124  of the underwire  120  in a specifically confined area. 
       FIGS. 10-11  show alternative shapes for inner perimeters of sealed ends of a fabric enclosure.  FIG. 10  is a cross-sectional front view of a portion of an underwire assembly  200  having a sealed end  246  adjacent an end  222  of an underwire  220 . Inner perimeter  270  of sealed end  246  is curved and is not located around the entire perimeter of first end  222  of underwire  220 . A space  265  is formed between inner surface  270  and first end  222  of underwire  220 . 
       FIG. 11  is a cross-sectional front view of a portion of another embodiment of an underwire assembly  300  of the present invention having a sealed end  346  adjacent an end  322  of an underwire  320 . Inner perimeter  370  of sealed end  346  has an alternative curvature from the curvature of inner surface  270  shown in  FIG. 10 . First end  322  of underwire  320  has a covered tip  380  that aids in keeping first end  322  from piercing fabric enclosure  340 . A space  365  is formed between inner surface  370  and first end  322  of underwire  320 . 
       FIG. 12  is a cross-sectional front view of a portion of another embodiment of an underwire assembly  400  of the present invention having an identification marker  490  located on a sealed extension end  460  of a fabric enclosure  440 . Identification marker  490  can be used to signify the end of fabric enclosure  440  and which of ends  422 ,  424  of underwire  420  should be inserted into open ends  445 ,  447  (not shown) of fabric enclosure  440 . 
     The method of manufacturing an underwire assembly  100  for attachment to other components of a brassiere, preferably further includes attaching the side  154  of the fabric enclosure  140  opposite the sealed side  150  substantially along a length of the side  154  to a first portion of the brassiere in order to secure the fabric enclosure  140  to the brassiere with the sealed side  150  facing away from side  154  being attached to the brassiere. Preferably, first extension end  160  is attached to a second portion of the brassiere and second extension end  162  to a third portion of the brassiere to further secure the underwire assembly  100  to the brassiere. Underwire assemblies  200 ,  300 , and  400  can be attached to a brassiere in a similar manner as described above with respect to underwire assembly  100 . 
     Although the invention herein has been described with reference to particular embodiments, it is to be understood that these embodiments are merely illustrative of the principles and applications of the present invention. It is therefore to be understood that numerous modifications may be made to the illustrative embodiments and that other arrangements may be devised without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention as defined by the appended claims.