Abstract:
The trousers comprise a centerline generally aligning with a centerline of a wearer&#39;s leg. The trousers comprise a diagonal upper seam, a diagonal lower seam, and a selvedge or straight grain outer seam. The diagonal upper seam extends downward from a position near an inside hip line to the centerline above the knee. The lower seam extends diagonally upward from the trouser bottom to the centerline above the knee. A method of forming trousers comprises the steps of providing a trouser blank, forming an improved trouser blank, and, using the improved trouser blank, forming a pair of trousers.

Description:
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
       [0001]    1. Field of the Invention 
         [0002]    The present invention relates generally to trousers and specifically to trousers in which the center line closely approximates the center line of the human leg from the thigh to ankle with both a pivoting and aligning method of forming the trousers. 
         [0003]    2. Description of the Prior Art 
         [0004]    Trousers (pants) generally comprise two tubes of material connected at the top. These tubes form the legs of the garment and the material at the top of each tube forms the hip area. In their simplest form, the tubes are each straight. However, the mature human leg is not. Rather, in a normal standing position, when viewed from the front, the thigh bone (femur) angles inward such that an upper thigh bone portion is positioned near an outside of the pelvis and a lower thigh bone portion is positioned at the knee. This angle, known as a bicondylar angle, is between eight (8) and fourteen (14) degrees in humans. The lower leg is, thus, not positioned directly below the femur in a normal standing position, when viewed from the front. In short, the thigh bones and lower leg bones are angled inward and backward with respect to the center of each thigh. Thus, the center line (“crease”) of the conventional pant leg aligns but cannot pivot with the center line of the lower leg. Unless an alteration is made, the pants will remain tubes contrary to the anatomy of the leg. 
         [0005]    Tailors and fashion designers have accounted for the differences between the natural center lines of the upper and lower legs in a number of ways. The conventional ways of aligning the center lines involve breaking the outer seam. However, it is often desirable to maintain the integrity of the outer seam such as in the case of traditional blue jeans which comprise a selvedge outer seam. A selvedge seam is a self-finished edge of fabric that prevents the fabric from unraveling or fraying. Selvedge seams run parallel to the warp, the longitudinal threads extending along the length of the fabric. Denim jeans comprising selvedge edges are considered by many to be highly desirable. However, there is a need for a pair of jeans or other trousers comprising a selvedge edge, the jeans/trousers being better fitting and comprising a center of thigh line that pivots and aligns with the center of knee line. 
         [0006]    The present disclosure provides a novel pair of trousers and method in which a two dimensional cutting of the pattern moving both the center of the pant leg to center of leg and providing a second dimensional move, a pivoting backward angle of the lower leg. 
       SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
       [0007]    A novel pair of trousers and method are provided, the trousers comprising a centerline generally aligning with a centerline of a wearer&#39;s leg. The trousers comprise a diagonal upper seam, a diagonal lower seam, and a selvedge or straight grain outer seam. The diagonal upper seam extends downward from a position near an inside hip line to the centerline above the knee. The lower seam extends diagonally upward from the trouser bottom to the centerline above the knee. 
         [0008]    The trouser blank used to form the trousers of the present disclosure comprises a selvedge outer seam. Prior to slits being made and material repositioned, the vertical center of the thigh line and vertical center of knee line are not aligned. The present disclosure provides a pair of trousers and method for forming same, in which these lines are more closely aligned as a result of one or more slits being formed in a garment blank and the fabric repositioned. 
         [0009]    In one embodiment, an initial slit and a lower slit are formed. In other embodiments, an initial slit, a lower slit, and one or more intermediate slits are formed. When lower leg material adjacent to the lower slit is moved from a first lower leg material position to a second lower leg material position, upper leg material below the initial slit is moved from a first upper leg material position to a second upper leg material position. The upper leg material on either side of the initial slit can then be sewn to form a “dart”, or a fold in the fabric rather than the slit. These movements have the effect of moving the vertical knee center line to a position more aligned with the vertical thigh center line. Moreover, these changes also permit greater mobility and comfort for the wearer. 
     
    
     
       BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS 
         [0010]      FIG. 1  is a side elevation view of a prior art pair of trousers. 
           [0011]      FIG. 2  is a side elevation view of the trousers, in accordance with a preferred embodiment. 
           [0012]      FIG. 3  is a plan view of a trouser blank comprising a selvedge edge, a vertical center of thigh line, a horizontal hip line, a horizontal knee line, and a vertical center of knee line. 
           [0013]      FIG. 4  is a plan view of the trouser blank of  FIG. 3 , in accordance with a preferred embodiment, showing the Initial cuts made to the blank. 
           [0014]      FIG. 5  is a plan view of the trouser blank of  FIG. 4 , depicting the initial cuts and positioning of fabric after the cuts, in accordance with a preferred embodiment. 
           [0015]      FIG. 6  is a plan view of the trouser blank after material repositioning. 
           [0016]      FIG. 7  is a front elevation view of the trousers, in accordance with a preferred embodiment. 
       
    
    
     DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT 
       [0017]    Referring to  FIGS. 2-7 , there is shown the initial garment blank  8  ( FIG. 3 ), an improved garment blank ( FIGS. 4, 5 , &amp;  6 ), and trousers  12  formed from such blanks  8 , in accordance with a preferred embodiment. As used herein, the terms “a” or “an” shall mean one or more than one. The term “plurality” shall mean two or more than two. The term “another” is defined as a second or more. The terms “including” and/or “having” are open ended (e.g., comprising). The term “or” as used herein is to be interpreted as inclusive or meaning any one or any combination. Therefore, “A, B or C” means “any of the following: A; B; C; A and B; A and C; B and C; A, B and C”. An exception to this definition will occur only when a combination of elements, functions, steps or acts are in some way inherently mutually exclusive. 
         [0018]    Reference throughout this document to “one embodiment,” “certain embodiments,” “an embodiment,” or similar term means that a particular feature, structure, or characteristic described in connection with the embodiment is included in at least one embodiment of the present disclosure. Thus, the appearances of such phrases in various places throughout this specification are not necessarily all referring to the same embodiment. Furthermore, the particular features, structures, or characteristics may be combined in any suitable manner on one or more embodiments without limitation. The detailed description illustrates by way of example, not by way of limitation, the principles of the invention. This description will clearly enable one skilled in the art to make and use the invention, and describes several embodiments, adaptations, variations, alternatives, and uses of the invention, including what is presently believed to be the best mode of carrying out the invention. 
         [0019]    General Overview 
         [0020]      FIG. 1  depicts a conventional prior art pair of trousers with a crease line  17  comprising a lower crease line  17 L, upper crease line  17 U, and a conventional seam line  21 . The crease line  17  of the conventional trousers generally runs parallel to the conventional seam line  21 . 
         [0021]      FIG. 2  depicts a novel pair of trousers  12  comprising fabric  10 . The novel pair of trousers  12  results from a first movement of the lower crease line  17 L to a vertical center of knee line  18  and a second movement of the lower crease line  17 L towards the rear of the lower leg  25  to form a new lower crease line  17 LN. When viewed from the front, the vertical center of knee line  18  is an imaginary vertical line that conceptually comprises the position on the fabric  10  at which, when assembled, approximately one half of the wearer&#39;s knee would be positioned on one lateral side, and the other half of the wearer&#39;s knee on the other lateral side. 
         [0022]    Referring to  FIG. 3 , an initial garment blank  8  for the novel pair of trousers  12  is shown. In accordance with the present disclosure, the blank  8  comprises fabric  10 , a selvedge outer seam  14 , an upper edge  38 , a crotch  24 , an inner edge  34 , and a lower edge  38 . The blank  8  further comprises a vertical center of thigh line  16 , the vertical center of knee line  18 , a horizontal knee line  20 , and a horizontal hip line  22 . The vertical center of thigh line  16  is an imaginary line that, when viewed from the front, conceptually comprises the position on the fabric  10  at which approximately one half of a wearer&#39;s thigh would be positioned on one lateral side, and the other half of the wearer&#39;s thigh on the other lateral side. 
         [0023]    In the preferred embodiment, the fabric  10  is denim. However, the fabric  10  need not be denim. Rather, the fabric  10  may be duck or other suitable weave and may be formed from cotton, wool, synthetic fibers, or other conventional and commercially available material. 
         [0024]    As may be seen in  FIGS. 3-5 , the vertical center of thigh line  16  and vertical center of knee line  18  are not aligned. As may be seen in  FIG. 1 , in a conventional pair of pants, the crease line  17  is vertical the entire length of the pants and generally parallel to the conventional seam line  21 . This configuration results in undesirable gatherings  19  in the fabric  10 . 
         [0025]    Referring to  FIG. 4 , in order to more closely align the vertical center of thigh line  16  and vertical center of knee line  18 , and to cause the crease line  17  and selvedge seam  14  to more closely approximate the backward angle of the leg  23 , one or more slits  26 ,  28 ,  30   a ,  30   b  are formed such that the fabric  10  may be repositioned. In the preferred embodiment, an initial slit  26  is cut on the crotch  24  side of the blank  8  and extends downwardly from a juncture  32  of the crotch  24  and inner edge  34  to the vertical center of thigh line  16  at a position approximately ¾ of the way down from the horizontal hip line  22 . As may be seen in  FIG. 4 , in the preferred embodiment, a lower slit  28  extends from a lower edge  38  position approximately midway between the inner edge  34  and the vertical center of knee line  18  to a position on the vertical center of knee line  18  approximately midway between the lower edge  38  and the horizontal knee line  20 . 
         [0026]    Although in the preferred embodiment, the initial slit  26  extends from the juncture  32  of the crotch  24  and inner edge  34  to the vertical center of thigh line  16  at the position approximately ¾ of the way down from the horizontal hip line  22 , and the lower slit  28  extends from the lower edge  38  position approximately midway between the inner edge  34  and the vertical center of knee line  18  to a position on the vertical center of knee line  18  approximately midway between the lower edge  38  and the horizontal knee line  20 , the initial and lower slits  26 ,  28  may begin and end at different positions without departing from the scope and spirit of this disclosure. For example, the initial slit  26  may begin at a position closer to the horizontal knee line  20  and extend at a different angle to a position further from the vertical center of thigh line  16 . The lower slit  28  may begin nearer or further from the inner edge  34  and extend at a different angle to a position further from the vertical center of knee line  18 . 
         [0027]    In some embodiments one or more intermediate slits  30   a ,  30   b  may be formed. In one embodiment, a lower intermediate slit  30   a  extends upwardly at an angle from an end of the lower slit  28  to a position approximately ¾ of the way between the lower edge  38  and horizontal knee line  20 . In one embodiment, an upper intermediate slit  30   b  extends downwardly at an angle from an end of the initial slit  26  to a position approximately ¾ of the way between the horizontal hip line  22  and horizontal knee line  20 . 
         [0028]    Referring to  FIG. 5 , after the one or more slits  26 ,  28 ,  30   a ,  30   b  are formed, lower slit material  46  on the crotch  24  side of the lower slit  28  is repositioned from a first position  40  to a second position  42  (defined by the lower diagonal line  42 ). In some embodiments, central material  48  between positions  40  and  42  may be removed. In some embodiments, the central material  48  is folded to form a dart. Whether the central material  48  between positions  40  and  42  is removed or folded, the lower slit material  46  is secured to selvedge side material  50  in a conventional manner such as with stitching. 
         [0029]    Referring to  FIG. 6 , the movement of the lower slit material  48  from the first position  40  to the second position  42  results in the vertical center of knee line  18  being moved to a resulting vertical center of lower leg line  44 . As may be seen in  FIG. 6 , such vertical center of lower leg line  44  is more closely aligned with the vertical center of thigh line  16 . Referring to  FIG. 7 , when worn by the wearer, the vertical center of thigh line  16  generally aligns with the vertical center of a wearer&#39;s thigh and the vertical center of lower leg line  44  generally aligns with the vertical center of a wearer&#39;s lower leg. 
         [0030]    Referring again to  FIG. 5 , after the lower slit material  46  is moved from the first position  40  to the second position  42 , initial slit material  52  is repositioned from a first position  54  to a second position  56  (defined by the upper diagonal line  56 ). In the preferred embodiment initial central material  58  between positions  54  and  56  is folded into a seam comprising a diagonal seam  57  comprising a dart  62  ( FIG. 7 ). In other embodiments, the initial central material  58  is removed. Whether the initial central material  58  between positions  54  and  56  is removed or folded, initial slit material  52  is secured to inner edge material  60  in a conventional manner such as with stitching. 
         [0031]    Referring to  FIG. 7 , the blank  8 , as modified in the manner discussed herein, is then used to form a pair of trousers  12  comprising a diagonal upper seam  57  and a vertical lower seam  45 . The modified blank  8  may be sewn together with a similarly modified blank  8  to form the front and back of a pants leg. The pants leg may be coupled with a similarly formed pants leg to form the pants of a pair of trousers  12 . The modified blank  8  may be sewn to an unmodified blank  8  or blank  8  modified in a different manner than that described herein. A zipper  64 , waist band  66 , belt loops  68 , button  70 , pocket  72 , and other finishing elements found in conventional trousers may be added to form the trousers  12 . 
         [0032]    The method of making trousers  12  comprises the steps of providing a garment blank  8 , the blank  8  comprising fabric  10 , a selvedge outer seam  14 , an upper edge  36 , a crotch  24 , an inner edge  34 , and a lower edge  38 ; the blank  8  further comprising vertical center of thigh line  16 , vertical center of knee line  18 , horizontal knee line  20 , and horizontal hip line  22 ; making an initial slit  26  extending from a juncture  32  of the crotch  24  and inner edge  34  to the vertical center of thigh line  16 ; making a lower slit  28  extending from a lower edge  38  position approximately midway between the inner edge  34  and the vertical center of knee line  18  to a position on the vertical center of knee line  18  approximately midway between the lower edge  38  and the horizontal knee line  20 ; after making the initial and lower slits  26 ,  28 , repositioning lower slit material  46  from a first position  40  to a second position  42 ; securing the lower slit material  46  to selvedge side material  50 ; after the lower slit material  46  is moved from the first position  40  to the second position  42 , repositioning the initial slit material  52  from a first position  54  to a second position  56 ; forming a seam  57  which may comprise a dart with the initial slit material  52 ; using the modified blank  8  to form a pair of trouser comprising an unbroken selvedge edge  14 . 
         [0033]    In some embodiments of the method, one or more intermediate slits  30   a ,  30   b  are formed. In one embodiment of the method, a lower intermediate slit  30   a  extends upwardly at an angle from an end of the lower slit  28  to a position approximately ¾ of the way between the lower edge  38  and horizontal knee line  20 . In one embodiment, of the method, an upper intermediate slit  30   b  extends downwardly at an angle from an end of the initial slit  26  to a position approximately ¾ of the way between the horizontal hip line  22  and horizontal knee line  20 . 
         [0034]    In some embodiments of the method, central material  48  between positions  40  and  42  is removed. In some embodiments, the central material  48  is folded to form a dart. 
         [0035]    In some embodiments of the method, the initial central material  58  is removed. 
         [0036]    While there has been illustrated and described what is, at present, considered to be a preferred embodiment of the present invention, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications may be made, and equivalents may be substituted for elements thereof without departing from the true scope of the invention. Therefore, it is intended that this invention not be limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as the best mode contemplated for carrying out the invention, but that the invention will include all embodiments falling within the scope of this disclosure.