Abstract:
A method for preparing a textile can include obtaining silk components, such as non-spun silk components, from a cocoon. The method can also involve assembling the obtained silk components obtained from the cocoon into a pattern, and attaching the non-spun silk components together. The method can still further involve shaping the attached non-spun silk components, and finalizing the shape through heat-treatment. In one implementation, heat-treatment of the shaped components comprises heating the components with a heating apparatus (e.g., iron, or oven, etc.) for an appropriate time and at an appropriate temperature. A variety of end products, including jewelry, and textiles for further processing generally, can be made from the silk prepared in accordance with an implementation of the invention.

Description:
CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS 
       [0001]    This application claims the benefit of prior U.S. Provisional Application No. 61/348,629 filed on May 26, 2010, which is incorporated by reference in its entirety. 
     
    
     BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
       [0002]    1. Technical Field 
         [0003]    This invention relates generally to the production of natural fiber textiles, including those made from naturally-occurring materials such as silk cocoons. 
         [0004]    2. Background and Relevant Art 
         [0005]    Silk is a natural fiber, made of protein, and produced by insects and spiders. For example, the earliest silk was thread obtained from the silk moth  Antheraea , and in particular  Antheraea mylitta . More recently, workers obtain silk from silkworm species, such as the domesticated silkworm,  Bombyx mori  ( B. mori ), or the wild silkworm  Borocera madagascariensis  ( B. madagascariensis ). 
         [0006]    In the case of the domesticated silkworm,  B. mori , a worker can obtain silk thread by unwinding a cocoon. (The process of unwinding the silk filaments from the cocoon and combining them together to make a thread of raw silk can be termed “reeling.”) In other cases, such as silkworm species like  B. madagascariensis , the silk thread cannot be reeled or unwound, and so a worker may boil the cocoon until it breaks down into its component fiber. After boiling, the worker can spin the silk fiber much like wool, cotton, flax, linen or other fibers that can be bundled into a yarn. Either reeled/unwound silk or spun silk can be transformed into area-covering textiles using warp-weft weaving. 
         [0007]    Unfortunately, silk production can require a substantial farmer financial investment by the farmer in both silkworm seed stock, in larval food plants, and silkworm and plant rearing and growing technology. Similarly, silk thread and textile production can require a substantial, additional investment in spinning and weaving equipment. The initial investment required for silk production, especially with the domesticated silkworm, can make it inaccessible to subsistence farmers without significant, additional, financial resources. 
       BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
       [0008]    A new type of non-spun, silk textile can be made with indigenous species of silkworms that feed on indigenous plants. The textile can provide a low-cost alternative to traditional silk production. Instead of decomposing the cocoons into fibers that can be spun or reeled, the cocoons can be used “as is” and assembled into an area-covering fabric. Because the method uses only indigenous plant and animal species, the method may not adversely affect ecologically sensitive sites, and may assist in benefiting ecologically sensitive sites by promoting re-establishment of the native food plants of the indigenous silk moths. At least one embodiment relates to heat treatment used to flatten the cocoons prior to textile production, during assembly, and to construct the textile into three-dimensional forms. 
         [0009]    In one aspect, a textile can include a non-spun silk component. A non-spun silk component can include silk fibers obtained from a silk source. A silk source can be a cocoon, more specifically, a single cocoon. A cocoon can be a silkworm cocoon. The silk fibers may not be reeled, unwound or spun. 
         [0010]    In some embodiments, a non-spun silk component can consist essentially of silk fibers obtained from a single cocoon or silk fibers obtained from a single layer of a cocoon. In other words, a non-spun silk component can be free of a glue, a polymer, a plastic or other binder. 
         [0011]    In some embodiments, a textile can include a plurality of non-spun silk components. A plurality can be any number greater than one, for example, a plurality can be greater than 10, greater than 25, greater than 50, greater than 100, greater than 200, greater than 300, greater than 400 or greater than 500. In some embodiments, each non-spun silk component can consist essentially of silk fibers obtained from a single cocoon or silk fibers obtained from a single layer of a cocoon. Each non-spun silk component can be free of a glue, a polymer, a plastic or other binder. 
         [0012]    In some embodiments, a cocoon can include a plurality of layers. In a preferred embodiment, a cocoon can include an inner layer and an outer layer. In some embodiments, a non-spun silk component can include an inner layer and/or an outer layer. 
         [0013]    In some embodiments, a textile can further include one or more threads. In some embodiments, one or more threads can attach a first non-spun silk component to a second non-spun silk component. In some embodiments, one or more threads can attach a first subset of non-spun silk components to a second subset of non-spun silk components, where a subset can include one or more non-spun silk components. 
         [0014]    In some embodiments, a textile can further include one or more attachment devices. In some embodiments, one or more attachment devices can attach a first non-spun silk component to a second non-spun silk component. In some embodiments, one or more attachment devices can attach a first subset of non-spun silk components to a second subset of non-spun silk components, where a subset can include one or more non-spun silk components. An attachment device can include an adhesive, a clasp, a button, a VELCRO™, a snap, or a zipper. 
         [0015]    In some embodiments, a textile can include a shaped non-spun silk component, wherein the shaped non-spun silk component has been manipulated to obtain its shape. In some embodiments, a component can be manipulated by flattening, cutting, folding or texturizing. 
         [0016]    In some embodiments, a non-spun silk component can include sericin. In some embodiments, the sericin has been redistributed, for example by, heating the sericin. 
         [0017]    In another aspect, a method of preparing a textile can include obtaining one or more non-spun silk components from a silk source. A non-silk component can include silk fibers obtained from a silk source. A silk source can be a cocoon. A cocoon can be a silk worm cocoon. The silk fibers may not be reeled, unwound or spun. 
         [0018]    In some embodiments, a non-spun silk component can consist essentially of silk fibers obtained from a single cocoon or silk fibers obtained from a single layer of a cocoon. In other words, a non-spun silk component can be free of a glue, a polymer, a plastic or other binder. 
         [0019]    In some embodiments, a cocoon can include a plurality of layers. In some embodiments, a cocoon can include an inner layer and an outer layer. In some embodiments, a non-spun silk component can include an inner layer and/or an outer layer. 
         [0020]    In some embodiments, obtaining the one or more silk components can include removing a live, insect pupa and chrysalis from a cocoon. In some embodiments, obtaining one or more silk components can include washing the cocoon, for example, in soap and water. In some embodiments, obtaining one or more silk components can include drying the cocoon. A cocoon can be dried by air drying or drying the cocoon with the assistance of heat. Drying the cocoon with the assistance of heat can be performed with an oven, an iron or a blow dryer, for example. Drying the cocoon with the assistance of heat can also be performed by placing the cocoon in a location which receives sunshine. 
         [0021]    In some embodiments, a method can further include assembling the one or more non-spun silk components. 
         [0022]    In some embodiments, one or more non-spun silk components can be assembled from the cocoon without reeling, unwinding, or spinning. 
         [0023]    In some embodiments, the one or more non-spun silk components can be assembled from the cocoon without reeling, unwinding, or spinning. In some embodiments, assembling the non-spun silk components can include selecting non-spun silk components based on color, quality or size. In some embodiments, assembling the non-spun silk components can include manipulating a non-spun silk component. A non-spun silk component can be manipulated by, for example, flattening, cutting, folding, tinting, dyeing or texturizing. In some embodiments, assembling the non-spun silk components can include positioning the one or more non-spun silk components into a pattern. In some embodiments, assembling the non-spun silk components can include attaching or sewing the one or more non-spun silk components together. 
         [0024]    In some embodiments, assembling the non-spun silk components can include heat treating a non-spun silk component. For example, a non-spun silk component can be ironed. 
         [0025]    In some embodiments, a method can further include ironing the cocoon as a double layer. In some embodiments, a method can further include separating the two layers of the cocoon into two independent components and ironing the separated independent components. 
         [0026]    In some embodiments, a method can include finalizing the one or more non-spun silk components. Finalizing the one or more non-spun silk components can include finalizing the one or more non-spun silk components into a shape. 
         [0027]    In some embodiments, finalizing the assembled non-spun silk components can include forming the assembled non-spun silk components into the shape. 
         [0028]    In some embodiments, finalizing the assembled non-spun silk components can further include heat treating the shaped non-spun silk components. 
         [0029]    In some embodiments, heating the shaped non-spun silk components by use of a heating apparatus can include heating a heating apparatus and/or non-spun silk component to between about 200° F. to about 500° F., preferably about 350° F. In some embodiments, heating the shaped non-spun silk components by use of a heating apparatus can include maintaining the assembled non-spun silk components in or in contact with the heated heating apparatus for between about 2 minutes to about 20 minutes, preferably about 8 minutes. 
         [0030]    In some embodiments, a method can include heat treating. Obtaining one or more non-spun silk components from a silk source, assembling the one or more non-spun silk components and/or finalizing the one or more non-spun silk components can include heat treating. 
         [0031]    In some embodiments, heat-treating the shaped components can include heating the one or more shaped non-spun silk components using a heating apparatus. Heat treating can include heating a heating apparatus and/or a non-spun silk component to a temperature greater than 150° F., greater than 200° F., greater than 250° F., greater than 300° F., greater than 350° F., greater than 400° F. or greater than 450° F. A heat treatment can last for at least 2 minutes, at least 5 minutes, at least 10 minutes, at least 15 minutes, at least 20 minutes or at least 30 minutes. A heat treatment can last for at most 1 hour, at most 45 minutes, at most 30 minutes, at most 15 minutes, or at most 10 minutes. In a preferred embodiment, a heat treatment can last between 2 and 20 minutes, even more preferable, between 5 and 15 minutes. 
         [0032]    One will appreciate that such apparatus can comprise virtually any appropriate heating apparatus such, including but not limited to a convection or conventional heating apparatus (or even a microwave heating apparatus) including a conventional oven, a convection oven, an iron or a microwave oven. A heating apparatus can include vacuum ovens and autoclaves. Heating can include using fire, steam, electricity or irradiation. 
         [0033]    In some embodiments, using a heating apparatus can include one or more of heating the shaped non-spun silk components with an iron, or heating the shaped non-spun silk components by use of an oven. 
         [0034]    Additional features and advantages of exemplary implementations of the invention will be set forth in the description which follows, and in part will be understood from the description, or may be learned by the practice of such exemplary implementations. The features and advantages of such implementations may be realized and obtained by means of the instruments and combinations particularly pointed out in the appended claims. These and other features will become more fully apparent from the following description and appended claims, or may be learned by the practice of such exemplary implementations as set forth hereinafter. 
     
    
     
       BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS 
         [0035]    In order to describe the manner in which the above-recited and other advantages and features of the invention can be obtained, a more particular description of the invention briefly described above will be rendered by reference to specific embodiments thereof, which are illustrated in the appended drawings. Understanding that these drawings depict only typical embodiments of the invention and are not therefore to be considered to be limiting of its scope, the invention will be described and explained with additional specificity and detail through the use of the accompanying drawings in which: 
           [0036]      FIG. 1  is a photograph illustrating a cocoon recently spun by a silkworm  A. suraka , with caterpillar visible inside; 
           [0037]      FIG. 2  is a photograph illustrating a top view of an inner layer of a cocoon (such as shown in  FIG. 1 ), in which an inner layer has been separated from an outer layer; 
           [0038]      FIG. 3  is a photographic depiction of a production team as the members cut and pin cocoons to a patter, and as they sew cocoon components in textile assembly; 
           [0039]      FIG. 4  is a photograph illustrating a textile, such as after the production shown in  FIG. 3 ; 
           [0040]      FIG. 5  is a photographic depiction of pendant made from heat-treated wild silk; 
           [0041]      FIG. 6  is a photograph illustrating a close-up view of a non-spun, needled textile assembled from silk cocoons; 
           [0042]      FIG. 7  is another photograph illustrating a close-up view of a non-spun, needled textile assembled from silk cocoons; and 
           [0043]      FIGS. 8 through 10  are photographs illustrating various sequences in one implementation of a disclosed method. 
       
    
    
     DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS 
       [0044]    In one aspect, a textile can be a natural textile, for example, silk. A textile may not be or include paper. A textile can be free from a glue, a polymer or other binder. A textile can consist essentially of silk. A silk or silk textile can include non-spun silk. A silk can be made by silkworms. 
         [0045]    In an exemplary embodiment, a silk textile can be made with a species of silkworm indigenous (i.e. native or grown in the region where the textile is made). Preferably, an indigenous silkworm can be fed on indigenous plants (i.e. plants which can be native or can be grown in the region where the silkworm is raised and/or where the textile is made). The textile can provide a low-cost alternative to textile production, for example, when compared to traditional silk production. Instead of decomposing the cocoons into fibers that are spun or reeled, cocoons can be used “as is” and can be assembled into a textile or an area-covering fabric. Decomposing the cocoons into fibers can include removing a fiber from the cocoon to be used as a single fiber or thread. This can be performed by unraveling a fiber from a cocoon. Because the method can use only indigenous plant and animal species, the method may not adversely affect ecologically sensitive sites, and may assist in benefiting an ecologically sensitive site by promoting re-establishment of the native food plants of the indigenous insects, for example, silk worms or silk moths. A method can include heat treatments. Heat treatments can be used to flatten the cocoons prior to textile production, during assembly, and/or to construct the textile into three-dimensional forms. 
         [0046]    For example, assembling flattened, silk cocoons into an area-covering textile or sheet can make a non-spun fabric. A non-spun silk component created can be a textile or can be assembled into a textile including multiple non-spun silk components. This method of constructing a silk textile/fabric can have an added advantage of avoiding the substantial equipment and training costs that can be needed to make spun silk and woven textiles. This method can also take advantage of the fact that cocoons that can be used (e.g. silk cocoons spun by the silk moths in the family Saturniidae) can be coated with a heavy layer of sericin or protein glue that can make the thread difficult to spin and can make the thread almost impossible to reel. Nevertheless, when the cocoon is heated (including by oven-heating or ironing), the sericin can softens and can spread over the fibers to flatten and stiffen them. Upon cooling, the flattened cocoon can be easy to sew into fabric or form into a three-dimensional shape. 
       Silk Preparation 
       [0047]    A non-spun silk component can be obtained from a silk source, for example, a cocoon, more specifically, a silkworm cocoon. The silk fibers may not be reeled, unwound or spun. 
         [0048]    Obtaining a non-spun silk component can include silk preparation. A silk preparation process can start by removing the live, insect pupa or the chrysalis from the cocoon, exemplified by  FIG. 1 . The insect pupae and/or chrysalis can be removed from a cocoon by a number of methods, including, but not limited to, physical extraction (e.g. cutting the pupa and chrysalis from the cocoon). In the alternate, an insect pupae and/or chrysalis can be removed from a cocoon by other physical extraction methods (e.g. crushing the pupa and chrysalis, heat liquefying the pupa and chrysalis) or chemical extraction (e.g. dissolving the pupa and chrysalis in a chemical). The cocoon can then be washed. Washing can include any process for cleaning the cocoon, for example, washing the cocoon in water or washing the cocoon in soap and water. The cocoon can also be dried. Drying can include air drying, blow drying or drying with heat. 
         [0049]    A cocoon can be of a variety of colors, properties (e.g. fiber properties) or qualities. For example, a cocoon can be darker or lighter. A cocoon can include a thick fiber or a thin fiber. The fiber of a cocoon may have a sheen or a gloss. Some cocoons can have fiber that can have a more consistent fiber texture, fiber size, or color. In some embodiments, a cocoon can be selected based on a color, property or quality of a cocoon. 
       Cocoon Preparation and Assembly 
       [0050]    A method can include a heat treatment. Heat treatments can be a critical component of textile preparation. A heat treatment can be performed during multiple steps, for instance, during the preparation step (e.g. during washing or drying of a cocoon), after drying a cocoon, during the manipulation of a non-spun silk component, or after the manipulation of a non-spun silk component. Heat treatment can include heating to a temperature greater than 150° F., greater than 200° F., greater than 250° F., greater than 300° F., greater than 350° F., greater than 400° F. or greater than 450° F. A heat treatment can last for at least 2 minutes, at least 5 minutes, at least 10 minutes, at least 15 minutes, at least 20 minutes or at least 30 minutes. A heat treatment can last for at most 1 hour, at most 45 minutes, at most 30 minutes, at most 15 minutes, or at most 10 minutes. In a preferred embodiment, a heat treatment lasts between 2 and 20 minutes, even more preferable, between 5 and 15 minutes. 
         [0051]    One will appreciate that such apparatus can comprise virtually any appropriate heat such, including but not limited to a convection or conventional heating apparatus (or even a microwave heating apparatus) including a conventional oven, a convection oven, an iron or a microwave oven. A heating apparatus can include vacuum ovens and autoclaves. Heating can include using fire, steam, electricity or irradiation. 
         [0052]    For example, after drying, the cocoon can be heat-treated as part of assembling the non-spun silk components. The cocoon can be heat treated as a particular layer, such as ironed as a double layer. Alternatively, the layers of the cocoon can be separated into independent components and heat treated (e.g. ironed), such as shown in  FIG. 2 . A cocoon can have a plurality of layers. In other words, the cocoon can have more than one layer, for example, two, three, four or more layers. In a preferred embodiment, the cocoon can have two layers, an inner layer and an outer layer. In some embodiments, for example, a worker can iron cocoon as a double layer or a single layer component. 
         [0053]    Heat treatments can be used to soften sericin or protein glue of a cocoon or to change a quality or property of a silk fiber (e.g. soften or stiffen a silk fiber). 
         [0054]    A worker can assemble the non-spun silk components. A non-spun silk component can be a textile. A non-spun silk component can be a cocoon that has been prepared. A heat treatment can include flattening or otherwise shaping a cocoon. A worker can attach or sew the component to make a textile or a textile including multiple non-spun silk components. (For example,  FIG. 3  illustrates a team performing various assemblies from the double or single layer components.) 
         [0055]    The non-spun silk components can also be manipulated. For example, a non-spun silk component can be cut, shaped, tinted, dyed, folded or texturized. In some embodiments, a non-spun silk component can be cut into different shapes and/or sizes. A non-spun silk component can be pinned into a pre-designed pattern. This modular approach to fabric assembly and production can allow textiles of any size to be made (e.g.,  FIG. 4 ). It can also allow the textile to be easily transported, for example, from remote areas to market centers. 
         [0056]    After a fabric or textile has been produced, the fabric or textile can be heat-treated (e.g., ironed and/or oven-heated) to stiffen it once again. If the textile has been formed into a three-dimensional shape, it can be placed in a heating apparatus of sufficient temperature and for sufficient duration. 
         [0057]    For example, in one implementation, the heating apparatus temperature can be between about 200° F. and about 500° F., preferably between about 300° F. to about 400° F. Similarly, the worker can heat the shaped textile in the heating apparatus from about 2 minutes to about 20 minutes, preferably from about 5 minutes to about 15 minutes. In at least one implementation, the worker can heat the shaped silk textile in a heating apparatus that has been heated to about 350° F. for about 8 minutes. After cooling, the textile shape can be retained essentially permanently. Along these lines,  FIG. 5  is a photograph illustrating a shaped silk textile that has undergone this additional heating and cooling sequence. 
       Thread And Stitching 
       [0058]    In at least one implementation, the type of thread used to sew the non-spun silk components into a fabric or textile can be critical to the final design of the fabric. Where it is desired that the thread not be seen, the fabric can be sewn with transparent or “invisible” thread, for example, 100%, polyester and made by SULKY. The thread can be tinted or un-tinted depending on the cocoon color and desired effect. For example,  FIG. 6  illustrates a textile made using a translucent/transparent, smoky thread. Of course, one will appreciate that the stitching can be done as part of the macro-pattern of the textile, and a variety of threads and embroidery techniques can be used thereby. In these cases, the thread may be selected to contrast with the cocoon and may be chosen from any type of fiber whether synthetic, natural or mixed synthetic natural. 
         [0059]      FIG. 6  illustrates a textile made using a zig-zag pattern. In one implementation, the illustrated zig-zag stitch can mimic the irregular, fractal-like spinning of the silk moth. One will appreciate that the zig-zag stitch can be sewn by hand or machine. Hence, the micro-design of the resulting fabric can be simply as it appears in nature, but instead of a 2 inch silk fragment (or cocoon) the textile can be extended to any desired size. Furthermore, one will appreciate that the resulting textile can be light-weight, and can be easily shipped in modules. 
         [0060]    Additionally or alternatively, individual cocoon components may also be cut into shapes that are laid in either geometric designs, or non-geometric patterns. For example,  FIG. 7  is a photograph illustrating a sequence of standard square or rectangle patterns. Regardless of the textile pattern, the preferred stitching can include a zig-zag stitch, such as exemplified in  FIGS. 6 and 7 . Other stitch styles or patterns other than zig-zag can be appropriate in some cases, and such stitching can affect not only style but strength of the end product. In particular, there will be some cases where the stitching forms part of the design, whereas, in other cases, the stitching will not form part of the design, but will provide primarily attachment support between non-spun silk components or components. Furthermore, other attachment means may be useful in some cases beyond stitching or sewing, including attachment methods for example, adhesives (e.g. glues), VELCRO™, snaps, buttons or tapes. It is important to differentiate an adhesive or binder as a means of attaching components from an adhesive or binder used to form a non-spun silk component. An adhesive or binder as an attachment means can be present only on a portion of a non-spun silk component for the purpose of attaching one non-spun silk component to another. An adhesive or binder used to form a non-spun silk component can be present throughout the entirety of a single non-spun silk component for the purpose of creating or stabilizing the non-spun silk component. 
         [0061]    Once the worker has completed assembling and attaching the raw non-spun silk components, the worker can then finalize the textile. In at least one implementation, this finalization can involve heating treating the sewn/attached components. The finalization can, for example, include ironing. The finalization can include ironing and another form of heat treatment. The result can be an aesthetically pleasing textile comprising non-spun silk. The non-spun silk can be light-weight and easily usable in a wide range applications, including jewelry and textiles 
         [0062]    The textile can be free of dye and/or tint. Alternatively, the textile can be dyed or tinted. 
         [0063]      FIGS. 8 through 10  are photographs illustrating various sequences in one implementation of the inventive production process. For example,  FIGS. 8 ,  9  and  12  illustrate positioning sewn non-spun silk components on a pattern −/− grid.  FIGS. 10 and 11  show workers sewing various non-spun silk components that have previously been extracted and cut from cocoons.  FIG. 13  shows a large section of nearly finalized textile that has been assembled and shown in a pattern corresponding to the paper grid shown underneath.  FIG. 14  is a photograph showing a worker sewing extracted and cut non-spun silk components. 
         [0064]    In describing some embodiments, the term “worker”, “member”, “team” or “team member” has been used to refer to a person. However, it should be understood that a “worker”, “member”, “team” or “team member” can also be a machine or automated device, such that a method or a step of a method can be performed or completed by an automated device or machine. As a non-limiting example, a worker performing a step of sewing silk textile should also be understood to encompass a machine or automated device performing a step of sewing a silk textile. 
       EXAMPLES 
     Example 1 
       [0065]    In a series of experiments, cocoons were assembled into two-dimensional textiles. The silk textile can be unique because it is not woven from spun fibers. Instead, the cocoons were treated, assembled and sewn to make a fabric. The preparation process involved removing the insect pupae before emergence, cleaning the cocoon and separating it into its two component layers. The silk was then heat-treated (ironed). The cocoons were used in either their natural form or cut into geometric shapes, such as squares, rectangles and circles. The shapes were sewn together with different types of threads. In the first case, cotton thread whose color matched the cocoons was used. The textile was sewn by hand using a zigzag stitch. 
       Example 2 
       [0066]    In a second series of experiments, the cocoons were stitched together using 100% polyester, “invisible” thread purchased from Speed Stitch, S.C. Both clear “invisible thread” as well as smoke-tinted, “invisible thread” was used. The cocoons were stitched together using a zigzag stitch by hand or machine. The result was a textile that does not appear to be sewn but the silk pieces appear to be fused. Textiles were made using the natural shape of the cocoon, as well as geometric shapes. 
         [0067]    The invention may be embodied in other specific forms without departing from its spirit or essential characteristics. The described embodiments are to be considered in all respects only as illustrative and not restrictive. The scope of the invention is, therefore, indicated also by the appended claims rather than by the foregoing description alone.