Abstract:
This invention relates to methods and compositions for treating and ameliorating skin conditions including post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). More particularly, this invention relates to compositions containing certain natural extracts, salicylic acid, and natural or synthetic retinoids. The composition was clinically proven to reduce PIH.

Description:
This is a continuation-in-part application of U.S. patent application Ser. No. 09/110,409 filed Jul. 6, 1998 now U.S. Pat. No. 8,039,026, and U.S. patent application Ser. No. 09/698,454 filed Oct. 27, 2000, which are hereby incorporated herein by reference. 
    
    
     FIELD OF THE INVENTION 
     This invention is related to methods and compositions for treating and ameliorating skin conditions including acne and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. More particularly, this invention relates to compositions containing salicylic acid, certain natural extracts and natural or synthetic retinoids. 
     BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
     Acne is an inflammatory dermatological disorder, which occurs frequently in adolescence and with some regularity in older adults of the human species. The condition of acne can include skin lesions ranging from the comedo in a pilosebaceous follicle, to more severe comedo-inflammatory symptoms such as pustules, papules, cysts and nodules. The condition is not only uncomfortable for the victim, but also embarrassing, and can result in disfigurement and scarring. 
     The pathology of acne vulgaris is believed to involve a number of factors: the first of which is the formation of comedones more commonly referred to as whiteheads (closed comedones) and blackheads (open comedones). These are solid horny masses that plug follicles and are associated with increased production of sebum. They are made up of tightly packed keratinized cells and sebum. As the comedo enlarges through continued accumulation of keratinized cells, pressure builds up within the follicles which eventually rupture, dumping the contents consisting of horny material, sebum and bacteria into the skin. This provokes inflammatory responses which take the form of pustules (pimples) when the rupture is small and cystic-nodules with complete rupture. 
     Many different approaches to ameliorating this disorder have been attempted in the past, with some treatments more effective than others. Attacks ranging from simple washing and cleansing to pharmaceuticals have been employed. Agents known and utilized in acne treatment include salicylic acid, the retinoids and retinols. While these agents can significantly improve acne, their undesirable side effects range from mild to severe irritation, redness, peeling, and itching and burning sensation. Thus, it is desired to have a single topical treatment that could prevent or reverse acne with minimal or no undesired side effects. 
     Aging of the skin is a complex phenomenon resulting from the interaction of several intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Skin changes associated with aging often manifest as cosmetic disabilities. Due to its psychological impact, aging of the skin has become an issue of great social significance and concern. With baby boomers aging, the era of cosmetic care, cosmetic maintenance and rejuvenation gains increased awareness. Methods for preventing and treating skin aging are highly desired. Intrinsic aging is an inevitable, genetically programmed process. Among extrinsic influences (wind, heat, cigarette smoke, chemicals, etc.), ultraviolet radiation appears to be the single most important factor associated with aging of the skin. Photoaging is induced by cumulative exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Increased recreational sun exposure, including excessive sunbathing, the depletion of stratospheric ozone, and the use of UVR in the treatment of various skin diseases, have led to increased prevalence of photoaging during the last decades. Photodamage can be prevented by sun avoidance and proper sun protection, and could be reversed by the use of topical retinoids, which could be irritating and expensive. Overexposure to ultraviolet and visible radiation also causes sunburn. The use of aspirin and other nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, cool baths and topical steroids offer only mild relief. 
     Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (“PIH”) results from healed acne lesions in darkly pigmented individuals. After the acne heals, hyperpigmented spots appear in the area affected by acne lesions. There is a need for a composition that alleviates acne and either prevents or ameliorates PIH. 
     Various approaches to treating acne, photodamage and other skin conditions have been attempted in the past, including treatment with Vitamin A acid (also known as “tretinoin”) and natural retinoids or retinoid precursors such as Vitamin A alcohol (also known as “retinol”). (See U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,877,805 and 4,355,028, for example). However, topical treatment with retinoids can be very irritating to the skin and uncomfortable for the patient. It can cause redness, which may be embarrassing to the patient, particularly those suffering from acne in their teenage years. Oral treatment with retinoids has been found to have teratogenic effects. Thus, it would be desirable to find a topical treatment for acne and PIH. 
     SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
     In accordance with this invention, we have found compositions and methods for treating and ameliorating acne and PIH containing salicylic acid, nondenatured plant extracts including legume and vegetable extracts having trypsin inhibitory activity and at least one natural or synthetic retinoid or retinol compound. 
    
    
     DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS 
     The compositions of the present invention contain salicylic acid. The amount of salicylic acid may range from about 0.5 percent to about 2 percent by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The amount of salicylic acid should be high enough to be effective in combating acne disease but not higher than a dose which would irritate a patient&#39;s skin. 
     Preferably, the compositions of this invention contain nondenatured legume or vegetable extracts containing compounds that inhibit trypsin, such as serine protease inhibitors. In particular, nondenatured legume extracts will also be useful in methods of this invention. More preferably, nondenatured soybean, limabean and blackbean extracts, and other natural products made from these beans, such as, but not limited to, bean milk, bean paste, and the like, also serve to reduce pigmentation by this mechanism. Serine protease inhibitors isolated from vegetables or legumes are also useful in this invention, such as, but not limited to, the soybean-derived proteins soybean trypsin inhibitor, “STI” and Bowman-Birk Inhibitor, “BBI”. 
     The novel compositions of this invention preferably contain legume products, and more preferably, soy products, that may be in the form of a fluid (e.g., soymilk) or a solid (e.g., a soybean powder or soymilk powder). What is meant by “soy product” is a substance derived from the soybean, containing the ingredients naturally found in soybeans, at the relative concentrations as found in the beans. What is meant by a “Soy Product” is a substance derived from the soybean. The soy product may contain only a portion of the soybean (e.g., an extract of the soybean such as a lipid reduced soybean powder or filtered soymilk) or may contain the entire soybean (e.g., a ground powder of the legume). The soy product may be in the form of a fluid (e.g., soymilk) or a solid (e.g., a soybean powder or soymilk powder). When in the form of a fluid, the term “soy product” refers to the solid constituents of the fluid that are derived from the soybean. 
     The soy product may be soybean powder. Soybean powder may be made by grinding dry soybeans. The soybean powder may be lyophilized. Soymilk and soymilk powder are also useful soy products. Soymilk is a combination of solids derived from soybeans and water, the mixture of which has some or all of the insoluble constituents filtered off. Soymilk powder is evaporated soymilk, which in one embodiment, is in a lyophilized or spray-dried form. 
     Procedures for manufacturing soymilk include, but are not limited to, the following three procedures. First, soymilk may be made by placing soybeans into water to allow them to absorb the water. The swelled beans are then ground and additional water is then added. The mixture may then be filtered to remove any insoluble residue. Second, soymilk may also be prepared from soybean powder. Soybean powder is thoroughly mixed with water (e.g., for at least one hour), which may then be followed by a filtration process to remove insoluble residues. Third, soymilk can also be reconstituted from soymilk powder by adding water. The soymilk may comprise from between about 1% to about 50%, by weight (e.g., from about 5% to about 20%, by weight) of solids from the soybean. 
     The surface of legume fruits often contain high levels of microorganisms. Thus, prior to use by humans, the legume product needs to be treated to reduce or eliminate such microorganisms. 
     The legume products utilized in the present invention may have a total microbial content of less than about 10,000 colony-forming units (“cfu”) per gram. Preferably, the soy products utilized in the present invention have a microbial content of less than about 1,000 cfu per gram (such as less than about 100 cfu per gram) of the legume product. 
     The legume products utilized in the present invention may have a total objectionable microbial content of less than 300 cfu per gram such as less than 150 cfu per gram. Preferably, the legume products utilized in the present invention have an undetectable amount of any objectionable microbials for at least one gram (e.g., at least ten grams) of legume product. 
     The legume product may be exposed to gamma irradiation. The legume product may be exposed to between about 2 to about 30 kGy of gamma irradiation, such as between about 5 and about 10 kGy of gamma irradiation. Such treatment reduces the microbial content of the legume product, while maintaining its biological activity (e.g., serine protease inhibitory activity). The treatment of legume products with gamma irradiation maintains the cosmetic elegance of the legume product, such as maintained natural colors and does not induce significant malodors. 
     Other anti-microbial processes that also maintain the protease inhibitory activity of the legume product that can be practiced alone or in combination with gamma irradiation, include, but are not limited to, exposure to x-rays, high energy electron or proton beams, ultraviolet radiation, hydrostatic pressure, and addition of chemical agents possessing antimicrobial activity, and combinations thereof. 
     In one embodiment, the soy product is a non-denatured soy product. “Denaturation” is defined in the Bantam Medical Dictionary (1990 edition) as “the change in the physical and the physiological properties of a protein, that are brought about by heat, X-rays or chemicals. These changes include loss of activity (in the case of enzymes) and loss (or alteration) of antigenicity (in the case of antigens)”. What is meant by “non-denatured plant extract” is a product extracted or derived from a plant in which the processing for the derivation of such plant extract (e.g., the temperature, extraction media) did not eliminate its protease inhibitory activity. One such protease is trypsin. In one embodiment, the non-denatured state of the soy product of this invention is measured by the presence of an intact soybean trypsin inhibitor (STI) protein, or by its trypsin inhibitory activity. 
     The compositions of this invention also contain at least one retinoid (i.e., compounds that bind to any members of the family of retinoid receptors) or retinoid precursor such as retinol, including, for example, tretinoin, retinol, esters of tretinoin and/or retinol, synthetic retinoids such as those set forth in U.S. Pat. No. 4,877,805, for example, and the like. The amount of retinoid in the compositions of the present invention may range from about 0.01 percent to about 1 percent, preferably from about 0.01% percent (the commercial formula has 0.04% retinol) to about 0.5 percent by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 
     The compositions of the present invention may contain additional sources of serine protease inhibitors. Additional sources of serine protease inhibitors may be extracted from the species belonging to the following plant families: Solanaceae (e.g., potato, tomato, tomatilla, and the like); Gramineae (e.g., rice, buckwheat, sorghum, wheat, barley, oats and the like); Cucurbitaceae (e.g., cucumbers, squash, gourd, luffa and the like); and, preferably, Leguminosae (e.g., beans, peas, lentils, peanuts, and the like). Ingredients in soy, such as isoflavones, or soy trypsin inhibitor, or non-denatured soy have not previously been known or utilized for reducing retinoid-induced irritation or redness. Surprisingly, we have found that compositions containing such elements are capable of reducing retinoid-induced irritation or redness without affecting retinoid activity. 
     The compounds which are active in the compositions and methods of this invention may be delivered topically by any means known to those of skill in the art. If the delivery parameters of the topically active pharmaceutical or cosmetic agent so require, the topically active composition of this invention may preferably be further composed of a pharmaceutically or cosmetically acceptable vehicle capable of functioning as a delivery system to enable the penetration of the topically active agent into the skin. 
     One acceptable vehicle for topical delivery of some of the compositions of this invention, particularly proteins such as trypsin and STI, may contain liposomes. The liposomes are more preferably non-ionic and contain a) glycerol dilaurate (preferably in an amount of between about 5% and about 70% by weight); b) compounds having the steroid backbone found in cholesterol (preferably in an amount of between about 5% and about 45% by weight); and c) one or more fatty acid ethers having from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms (preferably in an amount of between about 5% and about 70% by weight collectively), wherein the constituent compounds of the liposomes are preferably in a ratio of about 37.5:12.5:33.3:16.7. Liposomes comprised of glycerol dilaurate/cholesterol/polyoxyethylene-10-stearyl ether/polyoxyethylene-9-lauryl ether (GDL liposomes) are most preferred. Preferably the liposomes are present in an amount, based upon the total volume of the composition, of from about 10 mg/mL to about 100 mg/mL, and more preferably from about 20 mg/mL to about 50 mg/mL. A ratio of about 37.5:12.5:33.3:16.7 is most preferred. Suitable liposomes may preferably be prepared in accordance with the protocol set forth in Example 1 of parent application U.S. Ser. No. 09/110,409, though other methods commonly used in the art are also acceptable. The above described composition may be prepared by combining the desired components in a suitable container and mixing them under ambient conditions in any conventional high shear mixing means well known in the art for non-ionic liposomes preparations, such as those disclosed in Niemiec et al., “Influence of Nonionic Liposomal Composition On Topical Delivery of Peptide Drugs Into Pilosebacious Units: An In Vivo Study Using the Hamster Ear Model,” 12 Pharm. Res. 1184-88 (1995) (“Niemiec”), which is incorporated by reference herein in its entirety. We have found that the presence of these liposomes in the compositions of this invention may enhance the therapeutic capabilities of some of the compositions of this invention. 
     Other preferable formulations may contain, for example, soybean milk or other liquid formulations derived directly from legumes or other suitable plant. For example, such a formulation may contain a large proportion of soybean milk, an emulsifier that maintains the physical stability of the soybean milk, and, optionally a chelating agent, preservatives, emollients, humectants and/or thickeners or gelling agents. 
     Oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, solvent-based formulations and aqueous gels known to those of skill in the art may also be utilized as vehicles for the delivery of the compositions of this invention. 
     The topical compositions useful in the present invention involve formulations suitable for topical application to skin. The composition may comprise the soy product and a cosmetically-acceptable topical carrier. The cosmetically-acceptable topical carrier may comprise from about 50% to about 99.99%, by weight, of the composition (e.g., from about 80% to about 95%, by weight, of the composition). 
     The compositions may be made into a wide variety of product types that include but are not limited to solid and liquid compositions such as lotions, creams, gels, sticks, sprays, shaving creams, ointments, cleansing liquid washes and solid bars, shampoos, pastes, powders, mousses, adhesive strips, and wipes. These product types may comprise several types of cosmetically acceptable topical carriers including, but not limited to solutions, emulsions (e.g., microemulsions and nanoemulsions), gels, solids and liposomes. The following are non-limitative examples of such carriers. Other carriers can be formulated by those of ordinary skill in the art. 
     The topical compositions useful in the present invention can be formulated as solutions. Solutions typically include an aqueous solvent (e.g., from about 50% to about 99.99% or from about 90% to about 99% of a cosmetically acceptable aqueous solvent). 
     Topical compositions useful in the subject invention may be formulated as a solution comprising an emollient. Such compositions preferably contain from about 2% to about 50% of an emollient(s) As used herein, “emollients” refer to materials used for the prevention or relief of dryness, as well as for the protection of the skin. A wide variety of suitable emollients are known and may be used herein. See International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, eds. Wenninger and McEwen, pp. 1656-61, 1626, and 1654-55 (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Assoc., Washington, D.C., 7th Edition, 1997) (hereinafter “INCI Handbook”) contains numerous examples of suitable materials. 
     A lotion can be made from such a solution. Lotions typically comprise from about 1% to about 20% (e.g., from about 5% to about 10%) of an emollient(s) and from about 50% to about 90% (e.g., from about 60% to about 80%) of water. 
     Another type of product that may be formulated from a solution is a cream. A cream typically comprises from about 5% to about 50% (e.g., from about 10% to about 20%) of an emollient(s) and from about 45% to about 85% (e.g., from about 50% to about 75%) of water. 
     Yet another type of product that may be formulated from a solution is an ointment. An ointment may comprise a simple base of animal or vegetable oils or semi-solid hydrocarbons. An ointment may comprise from about 2% to about 10% of an emollient(s) plus from about 0.1% to about 2% of a thickening agent(s). A more complete disclosure of thickening agents or viscosity increasing agents useful herein can be found in the INCI Handbook pp. 1693-1697. 
     The topical compositions useful in the present invention may be formulated as emulsions. If the carrier is an emulsion, from about 1% to about 10% (e.g., from about 2% to about 5%) of the carrier comprises an emulsifier(s). Emulsifiers may be nonionic, anionic or cationic. Suitable emulsifiers are disclosed in, for example, INCI Handbook, pp. 1673-1686. 
     Lotions and creams can be formulated as emulsions. Typically such lotions comprise from 0.5% to about 5% of an emulsifier(s). Such creams would typically comprise from about 1% to about 20% (e.g., from about 5% to about 10%) of an emollient(s); from about 20% to about 80% (e.g., from 30% to about 70%) of water; and from about 1% to about 10% (e.g., from about 2% to about 5%) of an emulsifier(s). 
     Single emulsion skin care preparations, such as lotions and creams, of the oil-in-water type and water-in-oil type are well-known in the cosmetic art and are useful in the subject invention. Multiphase emulsion compositions, such as the water-in-oil-in-water type are also useful in the subject invention. In general, such single or multiphase emulsions contain water, emollients, and emulsifiers as essential ingredients. 
     The topical compositions of this invention can also be formulated as a gel (e.g., an aqueous gel using a suitable gelling agent(s)). Suitable gelling agents for aqueous gels include, but are not limited to, natural gums, acrylic acid and acrylate polymers and copolymers, and cellulose derivatives (e.g., hydroxymethyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl cellulose). Suitable gelling agents for oils (such as mineral oil) include, but are not limited to, hydrogenated butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer and hydrogenated ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer. Such gels typically comprise between about 0.1% and 5%, by weight, of such gelling agents. 
     The topical compositions of the present invention can also be formulated into a solid formulation (e.g., a wax-based stick, soap bar composition, powder, or a wipe containing powder). 
     The topical compositions useful in the subject invention may contain, in addition to the aforementioned components, a wide variety of additional oil-soluble materials and/or water-soluble materials conventionally used in compositions for use on skin, hair, and nails at their art-established levels. 
     The source of active compound to be formulated will generally depend upon the particular form of the compound. Small organic molecules and peptidyl fragments can be chemically synthesized and provided in a pure form suitable for pharmaceutical/cosmetic usage. Products of natural extracts can be purified according to techniques known in the art. Recombinant sources of compounds are also available to those of ordinary skill in the art. 
     In alternative embodiments, the topically active pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition may be optionally combined with other ingredients such as moisturizers, cosmetic adjuvants, anti-oxidants, bleaching agents, tyrosinase inhibitors and other known depigmentation agents, surfactants, foaming agents, conditioners, humectants, fragrances, viscosifiers, buffering agents, preservatives, sunscreens and the like. 
     One of the problems encountered by many individuals who utilize retinoic acid-containing products is increased erythema caused by irritation, a common side effect of retinoid usage. We have found that, surprisingly, the combination of tretinoin and soybean extracts with trypsin inhibitory activity products, such as nondenatured soymilk powder, result in decreased skin redness when applied in combination with or simultaneously with retinoic acid. Preferably, the soy products are utilized in a topical composition containing from about 0.01 to about 50% soybean powder or soymilk powder, more preferably about 0.05 to about 20% soybean powder or soymilk powder and most preferably about 0.5 to about 5% soybean powder or soymilk powder. 
     The topically active pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition should be applied in an amount effective to reduce retinoid-induced irritation of mammalian skin. As used herein “amount effective” shall mean an amount sufficient to cover the region of skin surface where reduce retinoid-induced irritation is desired. Preferably, the composition is liberally applied to the skin surface such that, based upon a square cm of skin surface, from about 2 μl/cm 2  to about 200 μl/cm 2  of topically active agent is present when a reduction in irritation or redness is desired. 
     Natural extracts made directly from plants or botanical sources may be employed in the compositions of this invention in a concentration (w/v) from about 1 to about 99%. Fractions of natural extracts and naturally-derived protease inhibitors such as STI or BBI may have a different preferred range, from about 0.01% to about 20% and, more preferably, from about 0.5% to about 10% of the composition, and most preferably from 0.1% to about 2.5%. Of course, mixtures of the active agents of this invention may be combined and used together in the same formulation, or in serial applications of different formulations. 
     We have unexpectedly found that when topically active agents are topically applied to an animal&#39;s skin, a significant change in skin condition was achieved. Preferably, active agents of this invention are applied to the skin of a mammal at a relatively high concentration and dose (from about 0.005% to about 1% for compounds having high therapeutic indices such as natural and synthetic retinoids and related compounds; from about 20% to about 99% for liquid derivatives and extracts of botanical materials; and from about 0.1% to about 20% for dried extracts or fractions of natural extracts and naturally-derived protease inhibitors such as STI or mixtures thereof) between one and two times daily for a period of time until the skin evidences a change in skin condition. This may be for from about four to about ten weeks or more. Thereafter, once the change in skin condition has been achieved, a lower concentration and dose (from about 0.00001% to about 0.005% for compounds having high therapeutic indices such as natural and synthetic retinoids and related compounds; from about 10% to about 90% for liquid derivatives and extracts of botanical materials; and from about 0.01% to about 5% for fractions of natural extracts and naturally-derived protease inhibitors such as STI or mixtures thereof), of active ingredient may be applied on a less frequent time schedule, e.g., about once per day to about twice per week. The effects of the active agents of this invention are reversible, therefore, in order to maintain these effects, continuous application or administration should be performed. The invention illustratively disclosed herein suitably may be practiced in the absence of any component, ingredient, or step which is not specifically disclosed herein. 
     Several examples are set forth below to further illustrate the nature of the invention and the manner of carrying it out, but do not serve to limit the scope of the methods and compositions of this invention. 
     EXAMPLE 1 
     A composition of the present invention was prepared by combining the ingredients listed in Table 1 below by the process described below Table 1. 
     
       
         
               
               
               
               
             
           
               
                 TABLE 1 
               
               
                   
               
               
                   
                 INCI Name 
                 Function 
                 % w/w 
               
               
                   
               
             
             
               
                 Water Phase 
                 DI Water 
                 Vehicle 
                  51.588 
               
               
                   
                 Methyl Gluceth 20 
                 Humectant 
                  2.000 
               
               
                   
                 Disodium EDTA 
                 Chelating Agent 
                  0.100 
               
               
                   
                 Glycerin 
                 Humectant 
                  1.000 
               
               
                   
                 Ammonium Hydroxide 
                 pH Adjuster 
                   0.0.46 
               
               
                 Oil Phase 
                 C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate 
                 Emollient 
                  7.000 
               
               
                   
                 Isoceteth 20 
                 Solubilizing Agent 
                  1.375 
               
               
                   
                 PPG 10 Cetyl Ether 
                 Skin Conditioning 
                  2.200 
               
               
                   
                   
                 Agent 
                   
               
               
                   
                 Salicylic Acid 
                 Anti-acne Agent 
                  1.000 
               
               
                   
                 Dimethicone 
                 Skin Conditioning 
                  2.750 
               
               
                   
                   
                 Agent 
                   
               
               
                   
                 Phenyl Trimethicone 
                 Skin Conditioning 
                  0.750 
               
               
                   
                   
                 Agent 
                   
               
               
                   
                 BHT 
                 Anti-oxidant 
                  0.100 
               
               
                   
                 Arachidyl Alcohol (and) 
                 Emulsifier 
                  3.850 
               
               
                   
                 Behenyl Alcohol (and) 
                   
                   
               
               
                   
                 Arachidylglucoside 
                   
                   
               
               
                   
                 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) 
                 Emulsifier 
                  4.400 
               
               
                   
                 Cetearyl Glucoside 
                   
                   
               
               
                   
                 Cetearyl Alcohol 
                 Emulsifier 
                  1.400 
               
               
                 Post Phase 
                 Polyacrylamide (and) 
                 Viscosity Increasing 
                  2.700 
               
               
                   
                 C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) 
                 Agent 
                   
               
               
                   
                 Laureth-7 
                   
                   
               
               
                 Soy Premix 1 
                 Water 
                 Vehicle 
                  12.000 
               
               
                   
                 Glycine soja (soybean) 
                 Natural Ingredient 
                  2.000 
               
               
                   
                 Seeds Extracts 
                   
                   
               
               
                   
                 Ethylene/Acrylic Acid 
                 Skin Conditioning 
                  0.500 
               
               
                   
                 Copolymer 
                 Agent 
                   
               
               
                 Soy Premix 2 
                 Glycine soja (soybean) 
                 Skin Conditioning 
                  0.025 
               
               
                   
                 Seeds Extracts 
                 Agent 
                   
               
               
                   
                 Benzyl Alcohol 
                 Preservative 
                  0.500 
               
               
                   
                 Methylparaben, 
                 Preservative 
                  1.000 
               
               
                   
                 Propylparaben, 
                   
                   
               
               
                   
                 Butylparaben, 
                   
                   
               
               
                   
                 Ethylparaben &amp; 
                   
                   
               
               
                   
                 Phenoxyethanol 
                   
                   
               
               
                   
                 Fragrance 
                 Cosmetic Appeal 
                  0.300 
               
               
                   
                 Benzalkonium Chloride 
                 Preservative 
                  0.050 
               
               
                   
                 Retinol 
                 Active 
                  0.092 
               
               
                   
                   
                   
                 100.000 
               
               
                   
               
             
          
         
       
     
     Soy premix 1 was prepared by adding 12 g of deionized water to a glass beaker.  Glycine soja  (soybean) Seeds Extracts (2 g) and Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer (0.5 g) were added with stirring in between additions. 
     Soy premix 2 was prepared by combining 0.025 g  Glycine soja  (soybean) Seeds Extracts with 0.5 g benzyl alcohol in a glass beaker and stirring for thirty minutes. 
     The water phase was prepared in an ESCO VESSEL. To the vessel was added 51.588 g water. Mixing was turned on and the following materials were added: 2 g Methyl Gluceth 20, 0.1 g Disodium EDTA, 1 g Glycerin, and 0.46 g ammonium hydroxide. The solution was heated to 70-75° C. 
     The oil phase was prepared in a glass beaker by combining the following ingredients while mixing at 75-80° C.: 7 g C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate, 1.375 g Isoceteth 20, 2.2 g PPG 10 Cetyl Ether, 1 g salicylic acid, 2.75 g DIMETHICONE, 0.75 g phenyl Trimethicone, 0.1 g BHT, 3.85 g Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidylglucoside, 4.4 g Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside, and 1.4 g Cetearyl Alcohol. The solution was mixed for 5 minutes, then cooled to 70-75° C. with continued mixing. 
     The oil phase was slowly added to the water phase with slow to moderate sweep mixing at 70° C. Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 (2.7 g) was added to the solution. The solution was cooled to 45° C. and the soy premix 1 and soy premix 2 were added with stirring. The soy premix vessels were washed with 0.8 g water and the water was added to the solution. The solution was mixed for 10 minutes. The benzalkonium chloride, preservative, and fragrance were added to the solution with 10 minutes stirring between additions. RETINOL. (0.092 g) was added to the solution and stirred for 10 minutes. 
     EXAMPLE 2 
     A placebo control was prepared by making a second sample based on the ingredients in Table 1 without the soy derivatives, retinol, and salicylic acid. 
     Clinical Study 
     A double-blind, placebo controlled, randomized study was conducted to evaluate the efficacy of a topical formulation of the present invention in improving the appearance of acne and post acne PIH in male and female Asian, African-American and Hispanic subjects with Fitzpatrick Skin Type III-V. 
     Forty-one Asian, African-American and Hispanic male and female subjects with Skin Type III-V and mild acne vulgaris (10-50 total facial acne lesions), 12 to 45 years of age, completed the double-blind, placebo controlled, randomized, full face, four month long study. Subjects had physically distinct, recent, facial PIH acne marks. Exclusion criteria included subjects using systemic medication within 30 days or topical medication within 14 days before study entry and those who exhibited skin conditions that could interfere with the outcome of the study. 
     Subjects were provided a composition of the present invention or its placebo based on a randomization scheme. They were asked to apply the test preparation twice on the face, once in the morning and once at night. Subjects were instructed to use a provided facial cleanser and an SPF 15 facial moisturizer throughout the study. 
     An expert clinical grader assessed global facial acne lesions and target inflammatory lesions as well as skin improvements in facial skin tone and texture. Specific PIH marks were evaluated for darkness, roughness and erythema. Assessments were made at baseline and at various time points throughout the study. The color of the PIH marks was rated on a scale of −1=slightly lighter than pigment of surrounding skin, 0=equal with pigment of surrounding skin, 1=slightly darker than pigment of surrounding skin, 2=moderately darker than pigment of surrounding skin, and 3=extremely darker than pigment of surrounding skin. Post study clinical grading of photos (full face and targeted PIH marks) was carried out to evaluate change in PIH darkness, erythema and size. Additionally, the relative size of the marks was also graded. Each mark was assigned a score of 4 at baseline and graded at subsequent visits using the following scale: 0=PIH mark is not readily visible; 1=PIH mark is 25% of the size of the mark at baseline; 2=PIH mark is 50% of the size of the mark at baseline; 3=PIH mark is 75% of the size of the mark at baseline; and 4=PIH mark is 100% of the size of the mark at baseline. 
     Subjects were asked to assess various skin attributes at baseline and at various time points throughout the study. 
     Visible digital photography and Diffuse Reflectance Spectrometer (DRS) measurements were obtained at a wavelength suitable for monitoring melanin concentration. Measurements were taken at baseline and various time points throughout the study. The mark to be monitored was scanned 3 times. Normal skin was also scanned 3 times. The spectra were overlaid and subtracted. Digital Image quantification was carried out for quantification of variables ‘L’ and ‘a’. Variable ‘L’ refers to luminosity and is measured by the brightness of the measured skin. Variable ‘a’ measures the redness of the measured skin. 
     Results 
     The scores from the clinical grading were averaged and reported as net improvements from baseline. The composition of the present invention showed a significant decrease in darkness, roughness and erythema compared to baseline at week 4 and continued at week 8, 12 and 16 with reduction in darkness seen as early as week 1. Clinical expert grading of photos showed that this composition showed an average % improvements in PIH size of 41% at week 4, 68% at week 8, 82% at week 12 and 92% at week 16. This was statistically significantly more effective than the placebo composition at weeks 4, 8, 12 and 16. This composition was effective on 91% of subjects at week 4 and on 100% of subjects at weeks 8, 12 and 16. 
     Expert clinical grading showed an average % improvements in PIH darkness of 41% at week 4, 63% at week 8, 80% at week 12 and 92% at week 16. This was statistically significantly more effective than the placebo composition at weeks 8 and 12. This composition was effective on 95% of subjects at week 4 and on 100% of subjects at weeks 8, 12 and 16. 
     Further statistical analysis of the data also showed that the active composition worked faster than the placebo in reducing the size and darkness of PIH marks. 
     At one week, target acne lesions exhibited a significant decrease in both erythema and elevation compared to baseline. 
     Significant improvements were also observed in facial skin tone, texture and global acne assessments compared to baseline. 
     Digital Image quantification for variable ‘L’ showed that at weeks 4, 8 and 12, the mean for this composition decreased more appreciably compared with the placebo and there was a trend in favor of the this active composition. Additionally, for variable ‘a’ the decrease from baseline for the active composition was statistically significant at week 12 for % change in active treatment (27.46% decrease) over the placebo treatment (6.63% increase). 
     Based on DRS data, the composition of the present invention demonstrated decreases from baseline at each week and the placebo group was equal to baseline or increased from baseline at each week. Subsequent analysis from a subset of population based on baseline melanin content as inclusion criterion indicated a statistically significant decrease for the composition in this invention (0.07 decrease) versus placebo (0.01 decrease) at week 4.