Dublin walks

The center of Dublin is so small that we have only a short walk between most of the interesting sights, pubs, restaurants and hotels. We can even thread most of the sights upon one long string of pearls. We then start from the Viking church of St Michans in the northwest to the music pubs of Baggot Street in the southeast.

We can plan to take this walk in one day, if we have to. Of course it would be more relaxing to take more time to linger in museums or pubs or to prolong a good lunch. Dublin is a place for relaxing and trying to let the easy-going atmosphere seep into the mind.

The city center covers less than 2 km in radius from College Green. The center is mainly on the southern bank of Liffey, around Dublin castle, the pedestrian Grafton Street and St Stephens Green. This is the oldest part of the city and the most beautiful part. The houses are low and the atmosphere is relaxed.

We start this walk on the northern side of Liffey, in Church Street that leads from the river to the left of Four Courts. On the west side of the street there is St Michans.

St Michans

Church Street. Hours: Open Monday-Friday 10-12:45 & 14-16:45, Saturday 10-12:45. (A1).

The oldest church in town, built in Romanesque style by Danish Vikings 1095, rebuilt in 1686, when it got its present look. The tower is still the original Viking-church tower.

Travelers have a look at mummified corpses from the end of the 17th C., exhibited in the cellar. The limestone of the church walls draws humidity from the atmosphere and prevents the decomposition of the dead.

We walk on Church Street 150 meters down to Liffey and take a 100 meter detour to the left along Inns Quay to inspect Four Courts.

Four Courts

Inns Quay. (A1).

The city courthouse was built in 1786-1802. It carries an immense dome of copper, which rises above a circular colonnade. The river front has a majestic and graceful Corinthian portico of six slender columns under a pediment.

It was burnt down in a cannon attack in the civil war of 1922. The national archives in the palace were destroyed. The palace itself was restored in the original style.

We retrace our steps on Inns Quay, cross the Liffey and have a beer in the oldest pub in the center, the river-front Brazen Head. Then we walk 100 meters uphill Bridge Street and turn right into Cook Street. We are walking under the remains of the old city walls. Above it we see the St Audoens churches. We enter the gate from 1275 and walk the steps up to the churches.

St Audoens

(A1).

The smaller St Audoens in one of the oldest churches in Dublin, built in the 12th C. in Gothic style by Normans from Rouen. The western front and the tower are from that time, the nave is from the 13th C. and its windows from the 15th C.

Before we inspect the nearby Christ Church we take a detour from the church fronts in High Street, walk less than 100 meters over the square in the direction of the Cornmarket street, but turn from the square to the left into John Dillon Street. From that street we can enter the market buildings.

Iveagh Markets

(A2).

Liberty and Iveagh Markets are the main flea markets in town, both in extensive buildings at John Dillon Street. The main items are second-hand clothes and home utensils.

We continue about 200 meters along the rest of John Dillon Street, then turn left and arrive after 50 meters at the garden of St Patricks Cathedral.

St Patricks

Patrick Street. Hours: Open Monday-Friday 9-18:15, Saturday 9-17, Sunday 10-16:30. (A2).

One of the oldest churches in Dublin and the largest church in Ireland, built in English Gothic style in 1254, with a tower from 1370. The church has gone through several renovations, the last one in the 19th C., but still retains its Gothic appearance.

In the garden there is a spring which St Patrick is said to have used when he baptized people in the 5th C. There are also memorials of the Irish Nobel laureates in literature and of some of Irelands other main writers.

The oldest public library in Ireland is also on the church grounds, Marshs Library, from 1710, where valuable books are chained to the desks.

From the western front of the church we walk north Patrick Street and Nicolas Street and continue down Winetavern Street under a delicate, enclosed walkway between Christ Church and the ecclesiastical council house. On the other side of the walkway we turn left to the entrance of Dublinia in the ecclesiastical council house.

Dublinia

(A1).

A multimedia exhibition of life in the Medieval Dublin from the Norman invasion in 1170 to 1540. It tries and succeeds moderately in showing a real picture of artisans and noblemen in that period, partly played by actors on screen, with smells and noises. In the main hall there is a big model of Medieval Dublin, lit by spotlights in accord with a canned description.

The Viking Adventure exhibition that was here until recently has been closed down, to open later again at a central address, probably in conjunction with a modernizing destruction of Temple Bar.

We walk directly from inside Dublinia over the enclosed walkway to Christ Church, a visit to which is included in the entrance fee.

Christ Church

(A1).

One of the oldest churches in Dublin, built in 1230 in a mixture of Late Romanesque and Gothic style, and drastically changed in 1875. Original are the northern wall of the nave with its flying buttresses, the transepts and the western part of the choir.

We leave the church by the Romanesque grand southern door. Outside there are remains of a chapter house from 1230.

A wooden Viking church, built in 1038 was where Christ Church is now. The vandals of City Hall built horrible office buildings a few years ago upon the Viking ruins to the north of Christ Church and destroyed part of the oldest Dublin.

We walk west from the church on Christ Church Place and Lord Edward Street, in all about 200 meters, to City Hall.

City Hall

Hours: Open Monday-Friday 9-13 & 14:15-17. (A1).

Built in 1769-1779 as the stock exchange of Dublin and converted into a city hall in 1852. Powerful Corinthian columns guard entrances on all four sides of the building. In the domed rotunda there are frescoes showing the history of Dublin.

We walk uphill past City Hall to Dublin Castle, which is directly behind City Hall, go under an overpass into the upper court of the castle.

Dublin Castle

Hours: Open Monday-Friday 10-12:15, & 14-17. Saturday-Sunday 14-17. (A1).

Built in 1204 in defense of the English occupation of Ireland. Gradually the castle became a government palace. The present buildings are partly from the latter half of the 17th C. and partly from the middle of the 18th C.

Opposite us, when we enter the court, are the State Apartments, open to the public, entered from the lower court.

Behind us is Castle Hall, a beautiful building with a high tower from 1750. The crown jewels were stolen from the tower in 1907 and have never been found again.

We walk down from the upper court to the lower court with the Most Holy Trinity church.

Church of the Most Holy Trinity

(A1).

The Most Holy Trinity church is in the lower yard.

Behind the church is Powder Tower, the oldest part of the castle, from 1202-1228.

We walk from the lower court past City Hall to Dame Street, cross that street, turn right a few steps and then left into Sycamore Street, on which we walk 150 meters downhill to Temple Bar, where we turn right.

Temple Bar

Temple Bar. (A1).

The liveliest street of pubs, cafés and restaurants in Dublin. It is a narrow pedestrian street with several side alleys teeming with live. Somehow this street has until now evaded the vandalism of Dublin city planners, but probably not much longer. For the moment it is an oasis in the wilderness.

From Temple Bar we turn left on Merchants Arch, walk to the river and arrive at the Hapenny pedestrian bridge.

Hapenny Bridge

(A1).

The name of Hapenny Bridge derives from the bridge toll that was collected from its users up to 1919. This bridge of wrought iron is the most beautiful one of the Liffey river bridges.

We cross the river on the bridge and turn right on the northern bank and walk on Bachelors Walk less than 300 meters to OConnell Street where we turn left.

OConnell Street

OConnell Street. (B1).

Broad sidewalks and a wide central island give space to trees, sculpture and people. This was once the promenade of Dublin and there are still some cinemas and fast food joints. But boring airline offices have moved in and pedestrian street life has crossed the river to Grafton Street.

We walk about 200 meters into OConnell Street to arrive at the General Post Office on our left.

General Post Office

OConnell Street. (B1).

The main post office is in a large palace from 1814, with an impressive Ionic colonnade in front.

It got its fame in the Easter Uprising of 1916. The Declaration of the Republic was read from its steps. It was then the headquarters of the rebels and was pounded by the English soldiers. It still has scars from that time, but most of the damage has been repaired.

We turn on our heels, return to the river, turn left on this side of it and walk 300 meters on Eden Quay to Custom House.

Custom House

Custom House Quay. (B1).

A low and sleek palace from 1791 with a dome and a Doric colonnade in front, often considered to be the most beautiful building in town.

It was first a customs building but is now a government office. It has been restored after it was severely damaged in a fire in 1921.

We return on the river bank to OConnell Street. There we turn left over OConnell Bridge, a bridge that is broader than its length. On the other side into Westmoreland Street.

Westmoreland Street

(B1).

A broad traffic avenue connecting the thoroughfare of OConnell Street north of the river with the traffic square of College Green south of the river.

We walk 200 meters on Westmoreland Street until we arrive at College Green, where we have Bank of Ireland on our right side.

Bank of Ireland

Hours: Open Monday-Friday 10-12:30 & 13:30-15. (B1).

The round palace was formerly the parliament of Ireland, mostly built in 1728. The old entrance is on the south side, from a courtyard surrounded with Ionic colonnades. The circular lines of the palace flow from this courtyard, that has been changed into a backyard.

Bank of Ireland moved in 1803. The House of Lords is still intact as are the fine carpets.

We leave the bank, go into College Green and walk to the west until we come to the first street to the left, St Andrew Street. We go up that street 50 meters to arrive at St Andrews.

St Andrews

(B1).

The church is where once was the center of the Vikings when they governed in Dublin ten centuries ago. Their “tingmot” assembly of free men was held here.

We return downhill, turn right into College Green. On the other side of the square we come to Trinity College, opposite the Bank of Ireland.

Trinity College

(B1).

Founded in 1592 as the Theology School of the Anglican Church, now a general university of 7000 students. We enter by the main entrance from 1755-1759 and arrive at 16 hectares of gardens and cobbled yards, surrounded with several university palaces.

We cross the yard to a severe-looking building on the right side of the central green. It is the university library, housing the Book of Kells. We go to the entrance on the other side.

Book of Kells

Hours: Monday-Friday 9:30-16:45, Saturday 9:30-12:45. (B1).

The library building was originally lighter in style when it had a colonnade on the ground floor. It is one of four main libraries in the country.

The famous Irish manuscripts are kept here. Most famous is the Book of Kells, a beautifully drawn New Testament in Latin on calf hides at the beginning of the 9th C. The book is exhibited along with several other gems, such as the Book of Durrow from the beginning of the 8th C., the Book of Dimma and the Book of Armagh.

The main hall of the library is also interesting. It is long, narrow and high, on two storeys.

We return the same way, by the main entrance to Trinity College, then turn left and walk along the university for 100 meters, cross Nassau Street and enter Grafton Street.

Grafton Street

Grafton Street. (B2).

This main pedestrian street of central Dublin runs from Trinity College to St Stephens Green and is the real axis of the city. From this street we have the shortest way to go to the major attractions of the center. And the street itself is the liveliest one in town. The original Bewleys café is the center of the street.

Musicians try to earn some tips, flowers are sold on corners. Most of the fashion shops are here and a few department stores of the more expensive type. The street is a river of humanity from morning to evening.

From Grafton Street we enter a narrow alley to the right just south of Bewleys and arrive at the back of Powerscourt Centre. Out of the alley we turn left, cross the street and enter the shopping center on its southeastern corner.

Powerscourt Townhouse

(A2).

A palace from 1771 and its court have been delicately and tastefully converted into a shopping center on three floors under a light central construction of wood and glass, loaded with balconies, some of them of 200 year old wood.

Quaint boutiques are here, also a few good restaurants, including the seafood Periwinkle and vegetarian Blazing Salads. On the top floor is a handicraft shop run by the Irish Board of Handicrafts. At lunchtime classical music is often performed on a stage in the middle of the court. Here we can linger the whole day if we are relaxed enough.

We return either the same way to the Grafton Street or by the shopping alley of the Westbury hotel. We cross Grafton Street, go into Lemon Street and walk 100 meters to arrive at the Hibernian Way shopping center.

Hibernian Way

(B2).

Some of the finest fashion shops in town are in this modern shopping center.

We exit the Hibernian Way on the other side and are in Dawson Street, where we turn right and walk 100 meters to Mansion Hall.

Mansion House

Dawson Street. (B2).

Built in 1705 and made the Mayors Residence in 1715. The largest banqueting hall in Dublin is behind the mansion, built in 1821. The first parliament of Ireland met there in 1919 to vote on the Declaration of Independence.

We continue on Dawson Street about 100 meters to St Stephens Green and enter the park.

St Stephens Green

St Stephens Green. (B2).

Nine hectares of an English park, the largest park in the center, freely landscaped with ponds and bridges, fountains and ducks, oceans of flowers and mowed greens, childrens playground and statues. It was fenced in 1663 and then opened to the public in 1877. Now it is the most hospitable part of central Dublin.

Some famous palaces are on the Green, among them the Shelbourne hotel on this side and the Foreign Office in the Iveagh House on the other side.

From the corners of St Stephens Green well known streets lead through central Dublin, among them Grafton Street to the north from the northwestern corner, and Merrion Row to the east from the northeastern corner.

We exit the green on the north side where we entered it. We then go to the Shelbourne hotel and at its side turn left into Kildare Street, which we walk for 150 meters to the entrance of the National Museum of our right side.

National Museum

Kildare Street. Hours: Open Tuesday-Saturday 10-17, Sunday 14-17. (B2).

This is literally a gold mine, containing a treasure of Pre-Historical and Celtic jewelry, necklaces, bracelets, chalices and toys. Many items are from the 1st C. B.C. but the most brilliant jewels are from the 8th C., from just before the Viking raids in 795.

The exhibits are well spaced and most of them can be seen from all sides, lessening the crowding around. The museum is small and there are plans to move a part of the exhibits elsewhere.

There is a good cafeteria in the museum, not a common find in museums.

At the entrance there is a fence. Through it we can see the National Library opposite the National Museum, and between them on the right the Leinster House.

Leinster House

(B2).

Leinster House is the seat of the Irish Parliament, built in 1745 and converted into parliament seat in 1922. The audience balconies can be visited and there are guided tours when the parliament is in recess.

We continue on Kildare Street about 50 meters to the entrance of the National Library.

National Library

(B2).

The library is mainly of interest to the Irish and to those who are looking for their ancestors in Ireland. It contains more than million books and many ancient manuscripts, in addition to geographic maps and old newspapers.

The furnishings are of dark wood and the lampshades are green.

We continue 100 meters on Kildare Street, turn right into Leinster Street and its continuation in Clare Street, walk about 200 meters and then turn right into West Merrion Square, where we walk 100 meters to the entrance of the National Gallery.

National Gallery

Merrion Square. Hours: Open Monday-Saturday 10-18, Sunday 14-17. (B2).

A traditional museum of art, with an emphasis on European painting, containing works by English, Dutch and Italian masters of former centuries. It also exhibits works by Jack B. Yeats, the main Irish painter and brother of writer William Yeats.

When leaving the gallery we enter the green on the other side of the street.

Merrion Square

Merrion Square. (B2).

One of the most beautiful greens in the center, laid out in 1762, a peaceful oasis in the central traffic. It is surrounded by graceful houses, many of them with the world-famous brightly painted front doors of Ireland.

Sidewalk artists exhibit their work on the pavement at the northern end of the green.

We leave the garden, cross the street, turn left and walk 100 meters to the entrance of the Museum of Natural History.

Natural History Museum

Merrion Square. Hours: Open Tuesday-Saturday 10-17, Sunday 14-17. (B2).

Skeletons of the extinct deer of Ireland, of whales and other typical items of such museums. The exhibit is old-fashioned.

We continue on Upper Merrion Street past the Government Buildings palace.

Government Building

Upper Merrion Street. (B2).

The white palace houses many government offices.

We continue on Upper Merrion Street to the next corner, where Merrion Row and Lower Baggot Street meet.

Baggot Street

(B2).

The two streets, Merrion Row and its continuation in Lower Baggot Street, are the prime streets of music pubs in Ireland, a special attraction of the country. Some famous pubs are Donoghues and Foleys at Merrion Row and Doheny & Nesbitt, Baggot Inn and Toners at Lower Baggot Street. Some good restaurants are also here, including Ante Room.

We walk Lower Baggot Street to the east and turn right into Lower Pembroke Street, which we walk 150 meters to Fitzwilliam Square.

Fitzwilliam Square

Fitzwilliam Square. (B2).

The best preserved green from the Georgian period, laid out in 1825, surrounded by tasteful houses of that period, many of them with brightly painted front doors, Dublin style.

This is the end of our walk through the city center. We end by returning to Lower Baggot street to have a pint and a rest in one of its pubs.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson