København restaurants

Alsace

Ny Østergade 9 / Pistolstræde, 1101 K. Phone: 3314 5743. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (B2).

One of the citys more refined restaurants, in a pedestrian alley leading off Strøget. A part of it is a sidewalk restaurant and part is a conventional restaurant in a white-painted brick cellar.

There are lots of fresh flowers, green sofas along the walls and tiles on the floor. The room is in two parts one of which has a view into the kitchen. The wine list concentrates on Alsace.

- Clear truffle soup.

- Goose liver paté with toast.

- Oyster soup.

- Venison with chanterelles.

- Sauerkraut

- Butter-fried partridge with grapes.

- Grilled feta cheese

- Champagne sorbet.

Amalie

Amaliegade 11. Phone: 3312 8810. Hours: Closed dinner, Saturday & Sunday. Price: DKr.120 ($21) for two. All major cards. (C2).

In a street leading from Amalienborg, just 100 meters from the palace, an exquisite little lunch cellar with a low ceiling in a conservation protected house.

The white walls are decorated with old etchings, the tables with candles and crochet mats. The cooking is simple and excellent.

- Smoked eel.

- Cod roes.

- Fish dumplings.

- Beef tartar.

Belle Terrasse

Tivoli, Vesterbrogade 3, 1620 V. Phone: 3312 1136. Fax: 3315 0031. Hours: Closed in winter. Price: DKr.650 ($113) for two. All major cards. (A3).

The best restaurant in the Tivoli garden. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Bernstorff

Bernstorffsgade 7, 1577 V. Phone: 3311 0668. Fax: 3315 1547. Hours: Closed dinner, Saturday & Sunday. Price: DKr.100 ($17) for two. All major cards. (A3).

Opposite the central railway stations and with Tivoli Gardens at its back, this restaurant offers some of the most reasonable prices in town.

It is clean, with gleaming white linen, decorated with items from the Tivoli Gardens. The main attraction is the reasonably prices lunch buffet. Service is very good.

- Salmon paté.

- Marinated salmon.

Cafe Victor

Hovedvagtsvej 8 / Ny Østergade, 1101 K. Phone: 3313 3613. Hours: Main room closed Sunday. Price: DKr.150 ($26) for two. All major cards. (B2).

Just behind hotel Angleterre, 50 meters from Kongens Nytorv square, a fashionable meeting place of young and affluent intellectuals.

It is open and cold and mainly noisy. The bar is more comfortable than the dining room. The place is really a café that offers a menu at lunch. The naked windows are immense and there are mirrors behind the bar. Everything seems to make sure that everyone sees everyone else, even from the outside. The service is good.

Caféen i Nicolai

Nikolaj Plads12. Phone: 3311 6313. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (B2).

In the southern transept of Sankt Nikolaj church, just a few steps from Strøget pedestrian street. There is plenty of room in all directions, especially up.

The coolness of the big, stained windows is offset by big paintings on the walls and dark beams in the ceiling.

- Fish soup with home baked whole-grain bread.

- Butter-fried cod roes.

- Orange marinated catfish roes.

- Danish goat cheese.

Copenhagen Corner

Rådhuspladsen, Vesterbrogade 1A, 1620 V. Phone: 3391 4545. Fax: 3391 0404. Price: DKr.130 ($23) for two. All major cards. (A3).

Even if concentrating on tourist, this corner on Rådhuspladsen square is also a solid restaurant with correct prices, a worthy descendant of Frascati, which was here in the building that preceded the present one. The glassed-in front part evokes memories of the old sidewalk café.

It offers premium wines by the glass. The wine is drawn from the bottles with a Cruover without uncorking them.

- Warm-smoked salmon.

- Duck breast in calvados.

- Catfish in marinated vegetables.

- Oven-baked filet of beef.

- Pancakes with raisins and redcurrants.

Els

Store Strandstræde 3. Phone: 3314 1341. Price: DKr.450 ($78) for two. All major cards. (B2).

One of Denmarks nicest restaurant, in a side street leading off Kongens Nytorv, a few steps from the square. The house and its design are from 1853, including the restaurant furnishings, which evoke memories from Austrian luxury cafés. The surroundings, the atmosphere and the cooking combine to make a harmonious whole that is not reflected in the rather low prices.

The inner dining room is the most interesting part. Recently restored are the six big pictures which are painted directly on the wood walls. The tables on the carpeted floor are of white and blue porcelain tiles. The atmosphere is unhurried and dignified and enhances the good service and still better cooking. The menu changes twice a day. The wine list is extensive.

- Guinea fowl with honey and orange sauce.

- Seafood chowder with mushrooms and herbs.

- Smoked salmon with truffles.

- Witch flounder with salmon mousse and salmon caviar.

- Turbot in cognac fumé.

- Charolais tournedos with herb mousse and tomatoes.

- Saddle of venison with truffes and Madeira.

- Peach pie with blackcurrant jelly and strawberries

- Cognac pie with whipped cream and blueberries.

- Mountain cheeses with grapes.

Era Ora

Torvegade 62, 1400 K. Phone: 3154 0693. Fax: 3185 0753. Hours: Closed lunch & Sunday. Price: DKr.800 ($139) for two. All major cards. (C3).

The best Christianshavn restaurant, rather expensive, on the main throughfare. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Escoffier

Dronningens Tværgade 43, 1302 K. Phone: 3315 1505. Fax: 3315 4405. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.550 ($96) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A beautiful and tasteful restaurant adjoining Hotel Christian IV, a few steps from Kongens have.

The ceiling is dark blue and the walls are yellow. Large and modern paintings and other works of art give the tone. Large chairs have blue, red and golden upholstery with African designs. White linen and candles are on the tables. Service is good.

- Bagt torske souffle med svampe i persille-hvidløgs marinade = baked cod soufflé with mushrooms in a marinade of parsley and garlic.

- Perlhøneterrin anrettet på stegt pære i balsamico = guinea hen on baked pear.

- Glaceret okse tournedos med ristede skorzornerødder og sennepskorn sauce = glazed beef tournedos with mustard sauce.

- Sesamebagt laks med spinat-dild mousse og hummercreme = salmon baked in sesame with a mousse of spinach and dill and lobster sauce.

- Gratineret brie med piment og ribs i oliven olie = gratinated brie cheese with redcurrants in olive oil.

- Valnøddekage med vanille syltede vindruer = walnut cake with vanilla pickled grapes.

Fiskekælderen, Den Gyldne Fortun

Ved Stranden 18, 1061 K. Phone: 3312 2011. Fax: 3393 3511. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday lunch. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (B2).

The best fish restaurants huddle together in the former fish market area at the canal facing Christiansborg palace, only 100 meters from pedestrian Strøget. One of the best is in a corner house cellar from 1796, small and tight, heavily furnished.

Knowledgeable and energetic waiters are friendly. The best part is the delicate, modern cuisine. Poaching and steaming are much in use, keeping the delicate taste of good an fresh seafood better than different types of frying. Avoid the fish items in the written menu as they can be frozen. Choose from the daily offerings chalked on blackboards on the walls.

- Mussels in the shell, poached in white wine. garlic and spices.

- Vineyard snails in the shells with salmon mousse and Burgundy sauce.

- Grilled lobster.

- Poached Dover sole with salmon mousse.

- Steamed ocean trout in white wine, with salmon and sturgeon caviar.

- Poached turbot in white wine, with wild mushroom sauce.

- Flambéed figs with pistachio ice-cream.

Fregatten Sct Georg III

Vesterbrogade 3, Tivoli, 1630 V. Phone: 3315 9204. Price: DKr.660 ($115) for two. All major cards. (A3).

An old frigate has been dumped into the middle of the lake in the eastern part of the Tivoli garden and serves as an restaurant with amusing ambience. In summer there is also dining on the deck.

Walls and ceilings are curved, just as one would expect in a ship. Everything is made of massive wood. You will not forget that you are aboard a ship. The sitting is close and the napkins are of paper. Food is acceptable and service barely so.

- Tre slags danske sild = three types of marinated herring.

- Graved laks med salat af fennikel = dill marinated salmon with fennel salad.

- Letsaltet andebryst kogt i krydderlage med lun løgkompot, svesker og rosiner = lightly salted duck boiled in herbs, with stewed onions, prunes and raisins.

- Lun flæskesteg fra Skallebølle med råmarineret rødkål = pork with marinated red cabbage.

- Danske oste fra Tebstrup, Them, Aså og Fanø = four Danish cheeses.

- Ris a la mande = spiced rice and cream.

Godt

Gothersgade 38, 1123 K. Phone: 3315 2122. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: DKr.600 ($104) for two. All major cards. (B2).

Husband-and-wife Corin Rice and Marie-Anne Ravn started this tiny restaurant for twenty guests in 1994 only 100 meters from Kongens Nytorv, on the stretch between Adelgade and Borgergade. It immediately took top honors for cooking and ambience.

The dining room is on two floors, with simple and tasteful furnishings, good linen on the tables. Marie-Anne takes good care of the guests and explains both the menu and the wine list. There is only one menu of four courses, changing every day.

- Ande-borstj med bacon = thin slices of duck with bacon.

- Søtunge og laks på frisk spinat med basilikum sauce = Dover sole and salmon on fresh spinach with basil sauce.

- Kalvemørbrad med skysauce, kantareller i fløde, dagens grøntsager og kartofler = beef fillet in own juice, chanterelle mushrooms in cream sauce, with zucchini, carrots, beans, broccoli and potatoes.

- Hasselnøddekage med friske figner i solbærsauce og pocherede ferskener = hazelnut cake with fresh figs in blackcurrant sauce and marinated plums.

Gråbrødre Torv 21

Gråbrødre Torv 21, 1154 K. Phone: 3311 4707. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.640 ($111) for two. All major cards. (B2).

The best restaurant on the charming Gråbrødretorv in the center of the old city, situated on the southwestern corner of the square, frequented by people from the fashion industry.

Sparsely furnished and cozy, with candlelights, paintings, a wooden floor, small tables with yellow and white linen and large bouqets of orange roses. The service is rather good.

- Hummersuppe med cognac = lobster soup with brandy.

- Iransk sevruga caviar = Iranian sevruga caviar.

- Letsprængt gåsebryst med peberrod = lightly salt-marinated goose with horseradish.

- Frikassé af hummer and havtaske = pieces of lobster and monkfish.

- Kogt torsk med sennepssause = poached cod with mustard sauce.

- Krondyrmedaillon på rosmarinsky = venison medaillons in rosemary.

- Pralinéis med kaffecreme = confection ice with coffee creme.

- Chokoladeterrin med orange = chocolate terrine with orange.

Ida Davidsen

St. Kongensgade 70, 1264 K. Phone: 3391 3655. Fax: 3311 3655. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (B2).

The best and the most expensive “smørrebrød” restaurant in town, near the royal palace. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Kanal-Kaféen

Frederiksholms Kanal 18. Phone: 3311 5770. Hours: Closed dinner; Saturday & Sunday. Price: DKr.120 ($21) for two. All major cards. (B3).

An old and historical lunch pub hides in two ancient rooms on the canal opposite the back of Christiansborg palace.

The ceiling is low. There are ship models in the windows, pictures of ships on the walls. Regulars sit on cane chairs at the linen tables, enjoying good atmosphere and quick service.

- Marinated salmon.

- Smoked salmon.

- Pickled lamb.

- Home-made meat paté.

- Aged cheese.

Kokkeriet

Kronprinsessegade 64, 1306 K. Phone: 3315 2777. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: DKr.600 ($104) for two. All major cards. (B1).

A lightly trendy mixture of Danish, Far Eastern and French cooking recently opened in a lightly trendy setting near Kongens Have, about 400 meters from the royal Amalienborg palace. The cooking is surprisingly good for such a lightly trendy place.

The place is a little naked, but not uncomfortably so, dominated by a long aluminium bar and aluminium air-condition pipes in the ceiling. White colors are much in evidence, on the walls and in the linen. There are candlelights for romance and trendy pictures on the wall. The lightly casual service is nothing to write home about, spoiling the otherwise comfortable ambience.

- Grilled torsk i hummercremesuppe med porre = grilled cod in lobster cream soup.

- Kammusling fricasse med jomfruhummer og persille olie = mussels with lobster and parsley in oil.

- Chilimarineret fjordlaks med fyldte orientalske ruller = salmon in red chili and spring rolls with cabbabe and aubergine.

- Portvinsbraisere fasan med jordskokker og svampe = braised pheasant with mushrooms.

- Kokkeriets osteudvalg = blue cheese, feta, svendbo and gorgonzola cheese.

- Letfrossen chokoladekage med nøddekompot og pæresorbet = lightly frozen chocolate cake with nut compote and pear sorbet.

- Beaujolaissyltede blommer med rørt vanilleiscreme = plums pickled in red wine, with vanilla ice cream.

Kommandanten

Ny Adelgade 7, 1104 K. Phone: 3312 0990. Fax: 3393 1223. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.1050 ($183) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A thoroughly designed restaurant on two floors in a charming 17th C. residence, on the south side of the street, near Grønnegade.

Gray walls of stone and gray upholstery and gray linen, silver-sprayed leaves and branches, mirrors and vases, silver cutlery and porcelain plates distinguish the restaurant, just as specially designed metallic chairs, halogen lights and a wooden floor. The service is professional.

- Frikassé af frølår og krydderurter, serveret med persillesoufflé og løgcreme = fricassé of frogs legs and herbs, served with parsley soufflé and onion cream.

- Gulerodsfeulleté med kalvebrisler og danske vinbjergsnegle, serveret med morkelsky = flaky carrot pastry with sweetbreads and snails, served with mushroom sauce.

- Grilled kalvetournedos med svampefritot, perlebyg, tomat og sauce diable = grilled veal tournedos with mushrooms, tomatoes and devils sauce.

- Frikassé of poularde fra Bresse, vintertrøfler, selleri og skorzonerødder = fricassé of Bresse hens, truffles and celery.

- Pandekager med appelsinkompot, hertil mandler og mandel sorbet = pancakes with orange compote, almonds and almond sorbet.

Kong Hans

Vingårdstræde 6. Phone: 3311 6868. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.1100 ($191) for two. All major cards. (B2).

One of the main gourmet temples in town hides almost unmarked in a cellar about 200 meters from Kongens Nytorv square and 100 meters from pedestrian Strøget. You start with drinks at the bar watching the work of the chefs in the open kitchen before you are shown to a table in a beautiful and romantic dining room behind the kitchen. This place combines atmosphere and cuisine.

White cellar vaults with Gothic ribs dominate the room. Avant-garde works of art line the walls. The table service is elegant but the waiter service could be better. A coffee and cognac sitting room is behind the dining room, sparing diners the cigar smell. A choice of set menus of three, four, six and eight courses offers excellent cuisine at stratospheric prices.

- Goose liver and sweetbreads with pickled vegetables.

- Asparagus and sparrow eggs in butter pie with zucchini, mushrooms, salmon and sturgeon caviar.

- Salmon and lemon sole in cream sauce.

- Champagne sorbet.

- Milk lamb in sage sauce.

- Beef contrefilet with mushroom and red wine sauce.

- Apple pie with raspberry sauce.

- Cheeses and desserts from the trolley.

Kongkursen

Kompagnistræde 4, 1208 K. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (B2).

In the oldest part of the city center, functioning both as a café and as a restaurant. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Krogs Fiskerestaurant

Gammel Strand 38, 1202 K. Phone: 3315 8915. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.1050 ($183) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A 1910 original of a fish restaurant in Empire style overlooking the royal palace complex on the other side of the canal, near Højbro plads, serving good seafood on the classic French side at high prices.

The green walls are covered with gilded mirrors and 19th C. paintings in white frames. The chairs are of mahogny. White linen, oil lamps and porcelain is on the tables. This is a refined place, typically Danish.

- Røget laks, æble chutney og jomfruhummer tatar = smoked salmon, apple chutney and lobster tartare.

- Hummerbisque serveret med hummer og tilsmagt med armagnac = lobster chowder with lobster and armagnac.

- Ristet pighvarfilet med ratatouille af tre slags løg og citronsmør = baked turbot fillet with a stew of tomatoes and three types of onion, and lemon butter.

- Grillet hummer med vanille, jordskokker og æbler = grilled lobster with vanilla, mushrooms and apples.

- Créme brûlé med mild stjerneanis og mocca detil vanillesorbet = créme brûlé with anis and mocca, served with vanilla sorbet.

- Chokolade pyramide med pistacie karamel = chocolate pyramid with pistacio caramel.

Leonore Christine

Nyhavn 9. Phone: 3313 5040. Price: DKr.600 ($104) for two. All major cards. (C2).

In the oldest Nyhavn house, from 1681, less than 100 meters from Kongens Nytorv square, a nice little restaurant with big windows facing Nyhavn harbor. The house has been preserved in original condition. The furnishings under the white walls are simple and unostentatious.

It has been a popular meeting place of boisterous businessmen for many years. The service is rather good, even if uneven. The menu is short and handwritten, showing clear signs of Nouvelle Cuisine. The refined cooking is by far the best one in Nyhavn. The wine list is rather high in price.

- Venison tartar with dill and egg.

- Mushroom mousse.

- Duck breast with shallots and red wine fumé.

- Venison leg with goose fat.

- Candied pistachio ice-cream with prune sabajon.

- Desserts from the trolley.

Lille Lækkerbisken

Gammel Strand 34, 1202 K. Phone: 3332 0400. Fax: 3332 0797. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (B2).

Centrally located on the canals. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Lumskebugten

Esplanaden 21. Phone: 3315 6029. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.440 ($77) for two. All major cards. (C1).

500 meters north from royal Amalienborg palace on the way to Den lille Havfrue, a former café has been successfully transformed into a modern culinary temple with simple and beautiful furnishings.

The house is white, long and narrow, with the main dining room in front, a bar and two smaller rooms behind. The rooms are bright, old and roomy, decorated with old photos and posters. The linen is gleaming white under flower and candle decorations. The offers of the day are chalked on a blackboard in addition to handwritten menus which change two times a day.

- Beef tartar.

- Skate stuffed with salad and salmon roes.

- Leg of venison with fumé of nuts, apples and blackberries.

- Chocolate cream cake with mashed fruit and ice-cream.

Nouvelle

Gammel Strand 34, 1202 K. Phone: 3313 5018. Fax: 3332 0797. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.950 ($165) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A hidden gem on the pretty Gammel Strand canal street near Højbro plads, entered through an almost unmarked courtyard. It is an exquisite restaurant with perfect service and almost perfect French nouvelle cuisine.

The colors are grey, blue and curry. An enormous and original chandelier is in the middle of the tiled ceiling. Open cupboards of glasses and wine bottles are in some crannies. The butter trays, plates and ashtrays are of pewter. The linen is orange and dark blue. There are flowers and candles on the tables. Service is unobtrusive and watchful and technically perfect.

- Æg nouvelle fyldt med hummermousseline og sevruga caviar = marbled egg with lobster mousseline and sevruga caviar.

- Terrine af vesterhavsfisk og muslinger med peberrod = Nordsee fish terrine and mussels with horseradish.

- Terrine af gåsefoiegras med mango og mild pebergelé = goose liver terrine with mango and pepper gelé.

- Pighvarfilet med letrøget spæk, balsamico og morkler = turbot with lightly smoked bacon and mushrooms.

- Hel hummer med salvie, spinat og pecorino = whole lobster with sage, spinach and pecorino cheese.

- Svesker i armagnac med creme og sukkerkurve = prunes in armagnac with cream and sugar basket.

- Lille æbletærte serveret varm med syltede valnødder og rørt iscreme = warm apple pie with pickled walnuts and ice cream.

Ostehjørnet

Store Kongensgade 56. Phone: 3315 9133. Hours: Closed Saturday dinner & Sunday. Price: DKr.130 ($23) for two. All major cards. (B2).

An excellent cheese shop is in a cellar on a main street 400 meters from Kongens Nytorv square and Amalienborg square. Above the shop a small restaurant specializes in cheese.

Salads, cheeses and cold cuts are on display at the bar, as customary at Danish lunch places. The staff knows about cheeses. Beer is preferable to the inferior wine.

- Cheese platter with emmenthaler, camembert, bresse bleu, brie and feta.

Restaurationen

Møntergade 19, 1116 K. Phone: 3314 9495. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: DKr.550 ($96) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A top-flight husband-and-wife restaurant of Bo and Lisbeth Jacobsen in a beautiful corner house on the west side of Möntergade and north side of Vognmagergade, only a few steps from Kongens Have and about 300 meters from Kongens Nytorv. Bo is a well-known TV cook, both are wine tasting specialists, and the cuisine is one of the best two or three in Copenhagen.

Beautiful, large paintings line the white walls of this airy restaurant with an open layout and a view into the kitchen, white linen and blue porcelain on the tables. Service is excellent and informative. There is only one menu of five courses, changed two times each day.

- Bagt helleflynder piqueret med røget hellefisk, syltede Karl Johann svampe og persillecrem = baked halibut, spiced with smoked halibut, pickled mushrooms and parsley cream.

- Laks indbage i butterdej med safransmør, glaseret selleri og lakserogn = salmon in butter pastry with saffron butter, glazed celery and salmon caviar.

- Marinerede linser bagt i porer, vinaigrette med kørvet og phylladej bagt med tapande = marinated baked beans.

- Kalvemørbrad farseret med brisler og vintertrøfler, madeira-trøffelsauce, grønkål med fløde bagt i bacon og kartoffel gratin med parmesan = veal fillet with sweetbreads and truffles, madeira sauce and gratinated potatoes with parmesan.

- Valnødde-marengskage med honning-citronfløde = walnut meringue cake with honey and lemon cream.

- Hvid chokolade iscreme med chokolade tuilles og svedsker i ahorn-sirup = white chocolate icea cream.

- Bagt æble med karamelcreme og orangesauce med koriander = baked apple with caramel creme and orange sauce with coriander.

Saison

Hellerup Parkhotel, Strandvejen 203, 2900 Hellerup. Phone: 3962 4842. Fax: 3962 5657. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.800 ($139) for two. All major cards.

The doyen of Danish chefs, Erwin Lauterbach, is back in Copenhagen and runs a restaurant in Hellerup Parkhotel in the suburb of Hellerup, on the coast road from Copenhagen to Elsinore, when you have just passed the Experimentarium exhibition and the Tuborg breweries. Lauterbach specializes in nouvelle vegetarian cuisine.

Beautiful, bright and spacious, with dark parquet and light furniture, red and golden curtains, brass and glass chandeliers, candlelights and white linen on the tables, and paintings by contemporary Danish artists. The kitchen is partly in view. Service by knowledgeable waiters is outstanding but rather busy at times. Good care is taken of the guests.

- Foie gras af and i terrine med briochebrød = duck liver in terrine with brioches.

- Crudité med grøntsager, safranmarinade og krydderurtetoast = crudité of vegetables, saffrom marinade and spiced toast.

- Jordskokker og blomkål med rosiner og kapers i muskatnøddesauce = mushrooms and cauliflower with raisins and capers in nut sauce.

- Grillet filet af torsk med porrer og linser = grilled cod fillet with lentils.

- Pandekager krydret med chili og serveret med hvidebønner i sauce med friske koriander = pancakes spiced with chile and served with white beans in sauce with fresh coriander.

- Makroner med kastanjeis og chokoladesauce = Macaroones with castagne ice cream and chocolate sauce.

- Anisparfait med karameliseret ananas = Anis parfait with caramelized pineapple.

Sankt Annæ

Sankt Annæ Plads 12, 1250 K. Phone: 3312 5497. Hours: Closed dinner; Saturday & Sunday. Price: DKr.150 ($26) for two. All major cards. (C2).

Alongside hotel Neptun, 200 meters from Kongens Nytorv square, a small hole for 32 lunchers sitting tight, if they can get through the narrow entrance. All the food is made on the premises.

This is a nice place, decorated with wagon wheels and old wagon drawings. There is no menu. Instead you trot to the bar, where the food is, and point out what you want to eat.

- Salmon with shrimp.

- Egg with shrimp.

- Marinated herring.

- Danish cheeses.

Skagen

Toldboldgade 2, Kælderen, 1253 K. Phone: 3393 8385. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: DKr.540 ($94) for two. All major cards. (C2).

A simple cellar restaurant with a seaside atmosphere and a short menu of standardized Danish-French cooking on the corner of Nyhavn and Toldbodgade, about 300 meters from Kongens Nytorv.

Benches of dark wood line the walls. There are ship lanterns, candles, stones and conches in the window-sills. The linen is white and gray. Seaside paintings enhance the ambience. Service is frendly but not very professional.

- Poulard frikasse med kammuslinger og salad = braised pullet pieces with mussels and salad.

- Andeleverterrine med svampe = duck liver terrine with mushrooms.

- Hummerfrikassé med urter = lobster pieces with herbs.

- Stegt lyssej med hummersauce = pan-fried saithe with lobster sauce.

- Kalvemørbrad med røgede svampe-sauce = veal with smoked mushroom sauce.

- Desserttallerken = mixed desserts.

Skildpadden

Gråbrødretorv 9, 1154 K. Phone: 3313 0506. Price: DKr.120 ($21) for two. All major cards. (B2).

An inexpensive café-cum-restaurant on the friendliest square in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Slotskælderen

Fortunstræde 4, 1065 K. Phone: 3311 1537. Hours: Closed dinner & Sunday & Monday. Price: DKr.200 ($35) for two. All major cards. (B2).

One of the better lunch restaurants in the center, near the pedestrian Strøget. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Sorte Ravn

Nyhavn 14, 1051 K. Phone: 3312 2011. Fax: 3393 3511. Price: DKr.800 ($139) for two. All major cards. (C2).

A cozy and pretty restaurant with solid French cuisine on the quiet side of Nyhavn, between the Kongens Nytorv square and Holbergsgade.

A bright place with small and deep windows, white walls and white linen, red ceiling bricks, brown leather benches and comfortable Nordic chairs. The table service is elegant, includes oil lamps and large wine glasses. There are rough bast mats on the floor. The total ambience is one of warmth and relaxation, just as the service.

- Dybkaosrejer omviklet med bacon, serveret med beurre blanc, tomatconcassé og vilde ris = ocean shrimp with bacon, served with melted butter, tomatpuré and wild rice.

- To slags laks med estragonsky, urter, hakkede æg, citronglacerede østers, salat og purløgescreme = two types of salmon in tarragon fond, with herbs, ground eggs and oysters in lemon glace.

- Indbagt pighvarfilet med hummerkød, laksemousse, samt hummer-cognac sauce = baked turbot with lobster, salmon mousse and lobster-brandy sauce.

- Helstegt svampefarseret dyrefilet med bær, selleriepure, andelevermousse and Madagaskar-pebersauce = braised venison with mushroom puré, berries, celery puré, duck liver mousse and pepper sauce.

- Lettfrossen nødde nougatkage med appelsin og solbærsorbet = lightly frozen nut and nougat cake with orange and blackcurrant sorbet.

- Frisk frugtsorbet = sorbet of fresh fruit.

Spinderokken

Trommesalen 5, 1614 V. Phone: 3122 1314. Fax: 3122 3513. Hours: Closed lunch; Sunday. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (A3).

The heavily decorated restaurant 100 meters from the central railway station has remained unchanged for a long time, hiding behind two stained windows and a heavy oak door. This peaceful and lazy place is old-fashioned in cooking, in service and in decor.

The old and dimly lit dining room in front is preferable to the newer one on the side. Oak, copper, antiques, candles, woven fabrics are all around. Here people do not hurry, even at lunch, when they linger into the afternoon, chatting over a glass of cognac. Lately a cold lunch buffet has been the specialty of the house, culminating in many types of marinated herring.

- Breast of turkey with creamed eggs.

- Three types of marinated herring with black bread.

St Gertruds Kloster

Hauser plads 32, 127 K. Phone: 3314 6630. Price: DKr.1150 ($200) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A unique and an immense restaurant for parties and tourist groups in the cellar of a charming 14th C. convent, a few steps from Kultorvet square, on the north side of the street, unusually furnished and lit by 1500 candles without the help of electricity. Sadly service and cooking do not reflect the high standard of the design.

Brick vaults, arcades. old chairs and tables of massive wood, heavy staircases, beams and pillars, religious artifacts and noisy diners. Aperitifs are taken in nooks and crannies and coffee is served in a library of leather furniture. Service is in the style of conveyor belts, rather rude and inattentive. Butter is served in airline alumnium packages.

- Flødeglaceret hummersuppe med armagnac og hummerkød = cream glazed lobster soup with armagnac and lobster chunks.

- Friskkogt hummer serveret i safranfløde, tilsmagnt med hvid bourgogne og dild = poached lobster in saffron cream, with white wine and dill.

- Andebryst letsalted og stegt på grill, serveret med risted andelever, estragonsauce, dagens grøntsag og kartoffel = lightly salted duck grilled and served with roasted duck liver, tarragon sauce, vegetables of the day and potatoes.

- Helstegt oksemørbrad serveret med kraftig trøffelsauce, hertil sauteret frisk spinat, ristede svampe = beef fillet with truffle sauce, sautéed spinach and roasted mushrooms.

- Letfrossen appelsinkage med nøddekrokant og hindbærpuré = lightly frozen orange cake with nut croquant and raspberry puré.

- Skobærparfait med karamelfløde og friske jordbær = parfait of berries from the wood with caramel cream and strawberries.

Sticks ‘n Sushi

Nørre Søgade 11, 1370 K. Hours: Closed lunch. Price: DKr.250 ($43) for two. All major cards. (A2).

One of the best Japanese restaurant in town, in the Kong Arthur hotel, near the central lakes. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Thorvaldsen

Gammel Strand 34, 1202 K. Phone: 3332 0400. Fax: 3332 0797. Hours: Closed Sunday & in winter dinner. Price: DKr.350 ($61) for two. All major cards. (B2).

Conveniently located opposite the palace island. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Tivolihallen

Vester Voldgade 91. Phone: 3311 0160. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. Price: DKr.120 ($21) for two. All major cards. (B3).

The baccalao saltfish center in town is in a 125 year old cellar just behind the city hall, 300 meters from Rådhuspladsen. You either order your baccalao by phone or wait for 25 minutes to get the exquisite delicacy on your plate, overcooked in the Icelandic manner.

Middle-aged regulars sit on worn benches and torn chairs in two tired and cozy rooms to devour big portions of baccalao and other grandmothers dishes. Everything is clean and the linen is gleaming white. There is no menu and no price list.

- Saltfish, Icelandic way.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson