Madrid amusements

Corral de la Morería

Morería 17. Phone: 365 1137. Fax: 364 1219. (A3).

The Andalucian Flamenco dance, influenced by Moors and Gipsys, is at its Madrid best at this restaurant. The famous Blanca del Rey dances there in a red dress almost every evening.

The show continues from 23 in the night to 3 in the morning. Diners arrive at 21:30 and get the best tables. The food is acceptable, the atmosphere is perfect and the feeling is great, if Spaniards outnumber the tourists.

Dancers and singers sit on the stage and stand up to take solo turns. Lament and grief, pride and despair are forcefully expressed in wailing and rapid songs. The instruments are guitars and castanets, in addition to the clapping of hands. The ladies dance in colorful and substantial dresses and the gentlemen sing in high-heeled shoes.

Plaza de Toros

Alcalá 231.

The main bullfight arena in the world, built 1931 in Neo-Moorish style as many bullfight arenas in Spain, with seats for 26,000 people. Fights are performed Sunday afternoon, competing with soccer, sometimes also on Thursday. Bullfighting comes from Andalucía and has been performed since the Middle Ages. The present form is from the late 18th C.

This is not a sport or a competition between man and but. It is a ritual drama, almost always resulting in the death of the bull. Three matadors perform and each kills two bulls. There are three acts to the drama. First the matador shows some traditional movements, such as the Veronica, with the red muleta cloth. Then riding picadores come and put spears in the bull.

In the second act the assisting bandilleras put three arrows in the neck of the bull. Finally the matador arrives again in the third act with his muleta cloth, performs some ritual movements and kills the bull with a single, perfect estocada with his sword. Everything must be performed according to strict rules of conduct and etiquette. This is like a religious performance.

Cervecería Alemana

Plaza de Santa Ana. (B2).

On one of the major squares in the old and liveliest part of the center, a combination of a café, a pub and a snack bar.

This is one of the places made famous by Hemingway, a simple and straightforward café, bursting with conversation from morning to night.

The tapas snacks are popular.

Cuevas de Sésame

Principe 5. (B2).

A friendly basement piano bar in a side street leading north from Plaza de Santa Ana.

Guests sit on different levels at small tables. The walls are covered with paintings by well-known artists and the sayings of well-known intellectuals.

Sometimes he guests pick up their own musical instruments, but otherwise a pianist takes care of that.

La Trucha

Manuel Fernandez y Gonzalez 3. (B2).

The snack-bar in front of the relaxed Andalusian restaurant La Trucha is one of the more popular discussion venues in the lively Plaza de Santa Ana area, in a pedestrian alley leading off the northeastern corner.

Madrilenos stand at the bar in three or four layers and devour tapas.

Mesón

Ciudad Rodrigo. (A2).

In the arcade leading off the northwestern corner of Plaza Mayor, offering the best tapas snacks in town.

Try the squid, shellfish, mushrooms and some far-flung varieties.

Café Central

Plaza del Ángel 10. (B2).

An old café opposite Victoria hotel, reminiscent of French turn-of-the-century cafés, decorated with mirrors.

Jazz is often played live here at night, when people feel like it.

There are some other jazz cafés in this neighborhood.

Café de Oriente

Plaza de Oriente 2. (A2).

Opposite the royal palace, a café and a tapas bar and a meeting point for musicians and politicians.

The outdoor part of the café is popular in good weather.

The same name also applies to an excellent restaurant on the premises.

Círculo de Bellas Artes

Alcalá 42. (B2).

One of the most interesting morning cafés, often full of artists, on the traffic artery between Plaza Puerta del Sol and Plaza de Cibeles.

You can relax with your coffee in deep leather chairs and enjoy a good view either out to the street or into the gallery with paintings and leaded window panes.

To enter the café we must buy a ticket to the current exhibition.

Gran Café de Gíjon

Paseo de Recoletos 21. (C2).

The main discussion center of politics and culture, one of many cafés on this major avenue, just north of Plaza de Cibeles.

This is a typical 19th C. café, open and noisy. Large windows open to the heavy motor traffic on the avenue. The intellectuals hang out there for hours on end and express themselves eloquently.

Mallorquina

Calle Mayor / Plaza Puerta del Sol. (B2).

A quiet breakfast café on the first floor at the western end of Plaza Puerta del Sol.

This is the ideal place for breakfasting on café and bakeries, such as ensaimada, spiral pastry in Mallorca style.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson