Amsterdam walks

Grachten

By taking a comfortable boat trip on the Amsterdam “grachten”, or canals, we are introduced to the city from the natural viewpoint, as sailing visitors saw it. It is also a suitable way to understand the layout of the city and the relative locations of places of interest. The canals are like horseshoes circling the center, crossed by streets that radiate from the center.

From the boat we get acquainted with gable house architecture and its variants. The history of the architecture, condensed in the narrow gables, blends with the beauty of numerous arched bridges over the canals and of proud trees on the banks. All this makes a whole that is best enjoyed from a canal boat.

Many companies run sightseeing boats and have departure piers all over the center. It does not matter what company we use or where we start the route which takes one hour. The boats are almost identical, the price and itinerary too.

We start our guidance at Singel, the innermost of the horseshoe canals.

Singel

(B1).

The innermost of the horseshoe canals around the old city center is Singel on this side of Amstel river and Oudeschans on the other side. This was the original ditch outside the city walls and continued to be so until the golden age of Holland and Amsterdam started around 1600.

We notice the narrowest house in town, at Singel 7. It is as narrow as the front door. Just a little farther up the canal we reach the first bend of the canal and see a quaint little jail inside the bridge we are going under. The jail could only be entered from the water.

We take a conduit canal to the next main canal, Herengracht.

Herengracht

(A2).

The name means the canal of gentlemen. In the beginning of the 17th C. it became the venerable address in Amsterdam. The richest merchants built their houses on the banks, vying with each other in elegance.

These houses still stand, proud as ever, but now inhabited by head offices of banks and concerns. The most refined houses are at the second bend of the canal, the Golden Bend, at around no. 390 where Nieuwe Spiegelstraat meets the canal. Just above the third bend, at no. 502, is the residence of the city mayor.

We take a side canal to the third main canal, Keizersgracht.

Keizersgracht

(A2).

Named after the Habsburg emperor Maximilian I who ruled Holland in the beginning of the 16th C. We notice that the houses are not as ostentatious as those at Herengracht are. This was the quarter of not-so-rich merchants and well-off industrialists. Also here the 17th C. houses are still here.

Next is the turn of the fourth horseshoe canals around the center, Prinsengracht.

Prinsengracht

(A2).

Relatively modest homes and many warehouses from the Golden Age surround this canal. Many of these storehouses have been converted into luxury flats, though the facades are still the same, as the houses are mostly certified historical monuments.

Outside this part of the city, built in the 17th C., new city walls were erected. Inside the former wall is the fifth horseshoe canal, Lijnbaansgracht, and outside the wall the last horseshoe canal, Singelgracht.

We arrive at the Singelgracht.

Singelgraacht

(A3).

Originally a real city wall ditch. Late in the 19th C. the walls were demolished and valuable space became available for traffic, gardens, squares, official buildings and museums.

It is quite romantic to repeat this canal trip during the evening and night when the beautiful bridges are lit by an enormous number of bulbs. At that time of the day the city looks like a landscape from a fairy tale.

East center

(B2).

Our second trip and first real walk leads us through the eastern part of the old center, the areas around Oudekerk, Nieuwmarkt, Waterlooplein and Rembrandtsplein. It includes the red light district of the center.

We begin at the Dam square, the starting point of all our walks in central Amsterdam.

Dam

(B2).

The central square of Amsterdam, in front of Koninklijk Paleis. It has always been the center of the city, the site of the first dam of Amstel river in the 13th C. At that time the name of the city was Amsteldamme. A harbor grew at the dam and slowly the fishing village grew into a merchant town. Its landmarks now are the Royal Palace, the Nieuwe Kerk and hotel Krasnapolsky.

Dam is lively, attracting crowds to look on or participate in happenings. There are meetings of Christian sects with preaching and singing and dancing. Also musicians, folk singers and other typical outdoor artists, performing and collecting tips. Formerly hippies slept at the national war monument in front of Krasnapolsky, but they were driven out in 1970.

Dam is also the venue of noisy traveling circuses, a traffic center for trams and taxis, and the preferable location of department stores. The Dam-Leidseplein pedestrian and shopping axis starts here. De Wildeman, a quaint little pub, is beside Krasnapolsky in the oldest house at the square, from 1632.

We start our walk in front of Krasnapolsky and walk into Warmoesstraat, the street between the hotel and Bijenkorf department store.

Warmoesstraat

(B1).

The oldest street in the city. The top class lived there in the 15th C. When it moved to Herengracht in the 17th C. this street became the main street of shops and hotels, as Damrak and Rokin had not yet been filled in. The Count of Alba lived here when he tried to subjugate the Dutch.

Two coffee shops bring alive memories from older times, Thee en Koffiehandel at no. 102 and Geels & Co. at no. 67. The same goes for the student hostel at no. 87, reminding of the primitive guest houses of earlier centuries.

In this street we also observe how the narrow gable-houses in Amsterdam actually slope forward over the street. They are built that way on purpose. At the top there is a beam and a block with a rope or a chain. Thus heavy articles can be taken up to the higher floors without bumping into the gable. It is not possible to carry cumbersome things up the steep stars inside.

We continue on the street to Oudebrugsteeg to the left. We have a short look there, as it has many small hotels, bars and shops. Then we turn back a short way along Warmoesstraat until we wee the church Oudekerk on our left.

Oudekerk

(B1).

We notice the small houses nestling in the nook of the church to save space. Also we are surprised that the half-clad and fat ladies in the red-light windows are pursuing their occupation just under the walls of the church.

It is the oldest church in the city, from about 1300. It is a Romanesque brick church. In spite of that it has large, stained-glass windows like a Gothic church. The tower is younger, from the middle of the 16th C., in a mixture of Gothic and Renaissance styles.

The tower is really unusual. The bottom platform is massive and four-sided, with a clock on each side. A portico of high and narrow columns rises on it. Then comes a turnip roof. The case is not closed as on top of that there is another portico and finally another golden turnip at the very top.

We continue to the canal side of the church. We are at Oudezijds Voorburgwal.

Oudezijds Voorburgwal

(B1).

This is the center of prostitution along with the next door Oudezijds Achterburgwal. In many of the houses along these two canals the harlots sit in big shop windows and wait for customers.

We turn left to the north along the bank and soon notice the narrowest street in the city, between nos. 54 and 62. It has no name and leads to red lights. A little farther on alongside the canal we arrive at Museum Amstelkring at no. 40.

Amstelkring

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40. Phone: 624 6604. Hours: Open Monday-Saturday 10-17, Sunday 13-17. (B1).

A secret Catholic church has been in the attic here since 1663. It was in use as a church for two centuries when the Dutch Calvinism was at its most severe. It is believed that sixty such churches were in the city. This is the only one left in original condition.

It is accommodated in the top floors and the attic of three family houses. It is three stories in height. Churchgoers went through a small door from a side alley and climbed narrow and complicated stairs. We see how worn the steps are.

The church is exhibited and also the lower floors which have been converted into a museum showing the living quarters and furniture of the kind of people who had a church built in their attic.

We continue north along the canal and see Sint Nicolaaskerk in front of us. Our walk leads us on Sint Olofssteeg.

Sint Olofssteeg

(B1).

Small groups of unemployed people from former colonies of Holland are at the corner of Sint Olofssteeg and the famous street Zeedijk, some of them in a stupor. They are considered harmless, but still the police are often in the background.

We walk to the bridge and take in the view back along Oudezijds Voorburgwal and also in the other direction, along Oudezijdskolk canal with the back of Sint Nicolaaskerk in the midst of old warehouses. Then we turn away from the bridge and walk westward Zeedijk a short way to Prins Hendrikkade, where we see Beurs on or left side, behind the tourist boat harbor along Damrak.

Beurs

Damrak 243. Phone: 627 0466. (B1).

An unusual Art Nouveau palace, built by Berlage around the turn of this century, considered a scandal at that time, as it still is in the opinion of die-hards. Outside it is heavy-looking, at its best from this direction. It was built as an exchange and has now been converted into the concert hall of the state Philharmonic Orchestra and an art center, entered from Damrak.

Art Noveau was born at the end of the 19th C., when architects had grown tired of copying old styles, tired of new Greek, new Roman, new Romanesque, new Gothic. They threw away some old rules and introduced free styling. This architectural style did not last, as it was followed between the two world wars with the sober Bauhaus style and related movements in art.

From this viewpoint it is difficult to believe that a kind of a sober style with inner lightness reigns inside, where giant beams of steel frame a vast exchange court under equally huge roof windows. The older exchange that burned down was built here in 1611. It was designed to allow ships to sail into its middle under a roof. Shops were on two floors on both sides.

In the other direction, to the right, we see the Centraalstation.

Centraalstation

(B1).

Designed in the Neo-Gothic style of the 19th C. by the same Petrus Cuypers who also designed Rijksmuseum. The central railway station is built on man-made islands and rests on 8687 wooden pillars. It is out in the sea water as there really was not any other space available for it.

In front of the station is a lively, little, white wooden building, Smits Koffiehuis, housing a restaurant and the tourist information service of the city.

We walk on Prins Hendrikkade to the front of Sint Nicolaaskerk.

Sint Nicolaaskerk

(B1).

The main catholic church, about 100 years old. Nicolaas is the saint of sailors and children.

Tradition has it in Amsterdam that at the end of November each year a white-bearded man comes to the city. His name is Sinterklaas. He visits the mayor and confers with him on the behavior of the children in town to ascertain whether they deserve Christmas gifts.

The name of him had changed from Sint Nicolaas to Sinterklaas and later to Santa Claus of whom many children have heard. He originates from Amsterdam. And this is his church.

We follow the turn of Prins Hendrikkade and at once see Schreierstoren on our right.

Schreierstoren

(B1).

A tower from 1482, a part of the city walls. AT that time the harbor ended here. The story says that women and children came here to wave and cry when the sailors left over the ocean.

From the tower we see behind the water the extensive buildings of Scheepvaart Museum.

Scheepvaart Museum

Kattenburgerpein 1. Phone: 523 2222. Hours: Open Tuesday-Saturday 10-17, Sunday 12-17. (C2).

Erected in 1656 as a naval warehouses on 18,000 pillars in the harbor. It now houses Scheepvaart Museum, the Dutch maritime museum, with uncountable ship models, maps, globes and other memorabilia from the sea. Recently a 25 minutes multimedia show has been added, detailing life on board of a life-size replica of a 17th C. merchant ship.

It is also a Dutch history museum, as the history of Holland is an history of sailing. When Amsterdam was one of the great powers of the world the Dutch managed to take over most of the shipping in Western and Northern Europe. They improved older designs of ships and invented new ones

Wherever they went they pumped new blood into industry and business. Everywhere they were well received except at the courts of kings trying to centralize power and build monopolies in trade.

If we are not going to the museum this time we turn right along the east bank of Geldserkade. The third street on the left is Binnenbantammerstraat.

Binnen Bantammerstraat

(B1).

This is the center of Chinatown. Chinese restaurant line the street. This is the district of the best possibilities to get a decent restaurant meal at the lowest price.

We turn back and walk over Geldserkade canal, then turn right along the other bank. Then we turn the next side street to the left, Waterpoortsteeg, and almost at once come to Zeedijk for the second time on this walk.

Zeedijk

(B1).

The traditional sailor street. The bars and hangouts are side by side and the streets are crowded during the evening and night. In the morning the street is on the other hand stone dead and the hash odor is almost gone.

We turn right along the street. At the end we arrive at Nieuwmarkt.

Nieuwmarkt

(B2).

Once the fish market of Amsterdam. As a relic of those times some good shops are still selling fish, meat, cheese, wine and other delicacies. There is also a small flower market on the square, not to forget a lively antiques market on Sunday.

We observe the tower of Waag in the middle of the market square.

Waag

Hours: Open 9:30-17, Sunday 13-17. (B2).

Once a gateway in the city walls. Its name was Sint Anthoniespoort, but for a long time it has been called Waag, as it housed the official weights guaranteeing transactions of goods. It is now a Jewish historical museum. On show are many holy articles and recollections from the occupation during the 2nd World War.

Waag has seven smaller towers and many doors, built in 1488. for most of its life it was the residence of artisan guilds, each guild having its own door.

Among them was the guild of surgeons, which made it possible for Rembrandt to paint here two famous pictures named Lessons in Anatomy. The painting of dr. Tulp is in Mauritshuis in Haag and the painting of dr. Deijman is in Rijksmuseum in this city.

From the square we heed south along the canal Kloveniersburgwal, first on the right bank, but on the first bridge we move over to the left bank. On the right side we see at no. 26 a narrow house, Mr. Tripps coachmans house.

Kleine Trippenhuis

(B2).

The story behind the name of house no. 26 at Kloveniersburgwal is that the coachman of Mr. Tripp wished to own a house even if it was no broader than the door to his masters house. The latter heard the wish and fulfilled it, -literally.

We turn left into Zaandstraat and arrive at Zuiderkerk.

Zuiderkerk

(B2).

Built in 1611 by the known architect Hendrick de Keyser, the first city church in Calvinist style. Its main decoration is the tower which is said to have inspired Christopher Wrens church towers in the City of London.

We continue on Zaandstraat and pass the bridge over Oudeschans. From the bridge we have a good view to the left to Montelbaanstoren.

Montelbaanstoren

(C2).

One of the city wall towers from the 15th C. In 1606 Hendrick de Keyser added a 50 meter spire to it. Many consider this to be the most beautiful tower in Amsterdam, and in fact it is often seen on paintings and photos.

On the other side of the bridge we come on the right side to Rembrandthuis.

Rembrandthuis

Jodenbreestraat 4-6. Phone: 624 9486. Hours: Open Monday-Saturday 10-17, Sunday 13-17. (B2).

The house with red shutters is where the master painter lived during his period of success, from 1639 to 1658, when he became bankrupt. Here he painted many of his best known works.

Now it is a Rembrandt museum. His printing machine can be seen there and over 250 of his etchings. The furniture is not his but from some of his contemporaries. The address is 4-6 Jodenbreestraat which reminds us that this street was the focus of the Jewish quarter up to the 2nd World War.

We continue on Jodenbreestraat to the square Visserplein. At the end of the street on our right side we arrive at the back end of Mozes en Aaronkerk.

Mozes en Aaronkerk

(B2).

Once a Catholic church, but now converted into a social center. This is now a haven for traveling youths and foreign workers. Soft drinks and snacks are for sale. There are exhibitions of handicraft, art and Third World problems. Specialized pop services for young people are on Sunday. Thus it is the most lively church in town.

On the other side of Visserplein we see the Portugese Synagoge.

Portugese Synagoge

Hours: Open 10-15, Sunday 10-13, closed Saturday. (C2).

The main Jewish synagogue in Amsterdam, built in 1675. At that time many Jews had fled persecution by the Catholic church in Spain and Portugal to the religious freedom and upswing in Amsterdam.

The synagogue is supposed to be in some kind of a Ionic style and is meant to be designed after the temple of Salomon in Jerusalem. Inside there are twelve massive columns under the womens gallery. We observe the giant chandeliers carrying thousand candles that all are lit during services on Saturday.

From the square we walk Nieuwe Amstelstraat to the Amstel. When we come to the bridge we turn right to Waterlooplein in front of the recent Stadhuis building.

Waterlooplein

(B2).

The flea market has been moved back from Valkenburgerstraat to its original venue on Waterlooplein after extensive building activity in the area. The junk is getting a little better and the atmosphere is getting a little more touristy. Still it is common for sellers to ask for prices 50-100% higher than they are willing to settle for.

You can have everything here from mink coats to screws, from antiques to boat lanterns. And do not forget the cheap bicycles for a few healthy traveling days in central Amsterdam.

The new buildings around the flea market are the City Hall and the Muziektheater, specializing in ballet, tel. 625 5455.

We return to the Amstel bridge, Blauwbrug.

Blauwbrug

(B2).

An imitation of Pont Alexander III in Paris, built in 1880, decorated with ornate lampposts with globes. From the bridge we have a good river view to the white Magere Brug.

We see a strange houseboat on the canal on our side of the bridge.

Bulgar

(B2).

Owned by the artist Bulgar, one of over 2000 houseboats in the canals of Amsterdam. About half of them are without a permit, but city authorities cannot evict them because of ensuing demonstrations. Some of these boats are slums and other are luxury boats with electricity and other amenities from the city. But all of them use the canals as sewers.

We cross Blauwbrug, the blue bridge, and walk right along Amstel to Magere Brug.

Magere Brug

(B3).

The most famous and beautiful of city bridges, almost 300 years old and especially enchanting at night when it is lit with bulbs. This narrow wooden bridge is a major traffic obstacle. Its protection thus shows the respect of Amsterdammers for their past history.

From Magere Brug, the narrow bridge, we return along Amstel to Herengracht. There we turn left on the right bank. We soon arrive at Museum Willet-Holthuysen at Herengracht 605.

Museum Willet-Holthuysen

Herengracht 605. Phone: 523 1870. Hours: Open Tuesday-Sunday 11-17. (B2).

Built in 1687 as the home of a rich merchant. Now it is a museum describing the life in such houses in those days. Everything is so natural that it almost seems like the family and household went out an hour ago and not almost 300 years ago.

Behind the house there is a good example of a back garden of the type that were in fashion with rich burghers of the 17th and 18th C., who had little space but tried to emulate the gardens of the French aristocracy.

We walk along Herengracht farther on to Thorbeckeplein and go to the middle of the Herengracht bridge. From there we have a view to many bridges over Herengracht and Reguliersgracht. Then we walk north Thorbeckeplein, past some nightclubs, to Rembrandtsplein.

Rembrandtsplein

(B2).

Once Rembrandsplein was the central square of pleasure. For many years it landed on the skids and was filled up with porno cinemas and nightclubs. In the last years the square and the streets around it have fought back to regain some of its heyday atmosphere. The garden in the center makes the whole place rather friendly in spite of glaring neon signs.

In the northeast corner of the square is a tiny, former police stations between Reguliersbreestraat and Halvemannsteeg, said to be the smallest in the world. There we leave this square that once was the butter and cheese market of the city.

We walk north Halvemannsteeg, cross the Amstel on a bridge, continue on Kloveniersburgwal until we reach the first bridge over the canal. There we turn right on Staalstraat to Groenburgwal.

Groenburgwal

(B2).

The bridge that we come upon here is one of the graceful old iron drawbridges that replaced the wooden drawbridges like Magere Brug. From this bridge we have a good view to Zuiderkerk.

We return and cross the iron drawbridge over Kloveniersburgwal. There we turn right along the left bank of the canal. Soon we catch sight of a narrow alley on our left and enter it. That is Oudemanhuispoort.

Oudemanhuispoort

(B2).

The long and narrow passage is really the main entrance to the traditional university of Amsterdam. On one side there are stalls of booksellers and on the other side the entrance. Here students can buy used textbooks and tourists can buy old books, maps and etchings. The passage leads between the canals Kloveniersburgwal and Oudezijds Achterburgwal.

This was once the entrance to the municipal almshouse.

Upon leaving Oudemanhuispoort we cross the bridge in front. Straight ahead we see the house of three canals. The nicer part of the exterior is on the other side. We cross the first canal, Oudezijds Achterburgwal, turn the corner around the house and cross Oudezijds Voorburgwal. We continue along Grimburgwal on our left side.

Grimburgwal

(B2).

A small and quiet canal with university buildings on the other side. A small group of old houses are on our side between the canal and the street. One of them is the tiny Upstairs pancake house.

We return to Oudezijds Voorburgwal and stroll a short distance along its left bank. We pass Damstraat and then turn left into the next alley, Pijlsteeg. We continue through that alley, past the jenever tavern Wijnand Focking, and go all the way to Dam square where we started this walk.

South center

This walk takes us through the pedestrian shopping axis of the city, between the squares Dam and Leidseplein. It continues through the quarter of cultural institutions and famous museums, such as the Rijksmuseum.

We begin at the Dam square, the starting point of all our walks in central Amsterdam. This time we first have a look at the Koninklijk Paleis.+

Koninklijk Paleis

Hours: Open 12:30-16 in summer, same hours on Wednesday in winter. (B2).

Built in 1655 as the town hall of Amsterdam. It was designed by Jacob van Campen in late Dutch Renaissance style, often called Palladian style. We can observe the exact forms of the front, so typical of the classical and mathematical thinking in architecture at that time. The front is divided into horizontal and vertical sections. The facade could do with a cleaning.

The palace is a perfect example of a period in architecture. It has similarities to other town halls of the 16th C. For example all the middle section is really one enormous, bright hall, which for a long time was the biggest in the world. Inside there are some of the best examples of Empire furniture, left there when king Louis Bonaparte had to escape in a hurry.

This solid palace, built on 13,659 pillars in a swamp, was probably the most important center of the Dutch empire for a century and a half. Then Napoleon made his brother king of Holland, and since then is has been the royal palace of Holland. The Queen does not live there as there are noisy traffic lanes on all sides. She lives in Haag and only comes here for receptions.

We leave the palace. Before we go into Kalverstraat we can take a detour have a look into Madame Tussaud vax museum in the Peek & Cloppenberg building. Otherwise we enter the crowd and let it carry us into Kalverstraat.

Kalverstraat

Hours: Shops are closed Sunday. (B2).

The biggest crowds are in this pedestrian shopping street. The throng and commotion is such that it resembles an outdoor market of the more refined type. Once it was the elegant shopping street of the city. Now it has changed into a street of shops selling jeans and junk for rather low prices. In between there are still some of the expensive fashion and diamond shops.

Usually pedestrian streets have space for sidewalk cafés. But not in this narrow artery. He who intends to walk at leisure and observe the tumult must soon quicken his steps to follow the stream.

We turn right into Sint Luciensteeg.

Sint Luciensteeg

(B2).

We catch sight of some house marking stones on a wall to the left side. Those were a kind of a coat of arms, cut in stone, playing in olden times the role of modern street numbers. Every house of standard had one like that. On our walks in the city center we can see many of them, but here we see a collection from demolished houses.

We continue through the alley and arrive at Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal.

Postzegelmarkt

(B2).

This part of the street is the venue of a stamp market on Wednesday and Sunday afternoons, in Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal, where the street broadens just south of the Royal Palace. Coins are also sold here.

We return via Sint Luciensteeg to Kalverstraat and then turn right. After a few meters we come at no. 92 to the entrance to Historisch Museum.

Historisch Museum

Kalverstraat 92. Phone: 523 1822. Hours: Open Monday-Friday 10-17, Saturday-Sunday 11-17. (B2).

An excellent museum for those who dislike museums, well arranged, showing clearly the remarkable history of the city.

We take our time to learn a little about the history of Amsterdam.

History

(B2).

The first dam on the river Amstel was built in the 13th C. where now is the Dam, the main square in front of the Royal Palace. The river Amstel and the dam gave the city its original name, Amsteldamme. A harbor grew around the dam and slowly the former fishing village grew into a merchant town. The rulers were absent counts and princes and finally the kings of Spain.

National and religious revolts against Spanish rule started in the 16th C. In 1568 the Eighty Years War started between Holland and Spain. In 1588 the Spanish Armada was destroyed and the Golden Age of Holland begun. Commerce exploded and the Dutch East India Company was established in 1602. The plan of the present canal system of central Amsterdam was drawn up in 1609.

In the 17th C. Amsterdam was a world center of learning and culture. Scholars immigrated to the freedom of the city. Famous painters such as Rembrandt had customers in the wealthy “burghers” or citizens of the city. Four wars were fought with the English for control of world trade in the latter half of the 17th C. and in the 18th C. Amsterdam gave way to London as the world center.

A renewed prosperity in Amsterdam was the result of the construction of the North Sea Canal. The prosperity has since then generally been on the increase. The Dutch are great holders of shares in transnational companies such as Philips, Shell and Unilever. In the last decades the most obvious achievement of the Dutch is an enormous technology in building dams.

Begijnhof

(B2).

We leave the past and enter modern times again for a short time in Kalverstraat, which we continue southwards, then turn right into Begijnensteeg and go through the Begijnhof entrance. We could also have come this way directly through the back door of the museum, by going through the high glass-roofed hall of guards.

There are few tourists here, as the entrances are not conspicuous. This is a silent sanctuary in the middle of the hustle and bustle of a world city. Small houses cluster together around a garden and a church. This was for centuries the home of Christian women which had not taken the oath as nuns. Such religious women villages have only survived here and in Breda.

But this is just the right and calm haven from the clamor and crowding of the surroundings. it is especially tranquil to come here on a Sunday morning when the church organ is being played. If Shangri La is somewhere it could be just here. The oldest house is no. 31, a wood house from 1478, more than 500 years old. Some house marking stones are in the corner behind the house.

We take a closer look upon the church in the center.

Engelsche Kerk

(B2).

The Protestant church is called the English Church. It is a venue for music concerts. Opposite it the Catholic church is a part of the house line, at no. 31. That is the real church of the Begijnen.

After resting in Begijnhof we leave from the south end of it through a tiled corridor which leads out to Spui square. Then we return to Kalversstraat, which passes through the eastern part of the square. Continuing to the end of that street we then turn right into Heiligeweg and in direct continuation along Koningsplein and Leidsestraat.

Leidsestraat

(A2).

A pedestrian street, full of people during all the hours of the day, and the night also for that matter. We cross Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht on bridges and are unlucky if we do not see one of the landmarks of Amsterdam, the hand-driven and colorful street-organs.

We stop at the bridge over Herengracht and observe the golden bend on the south side to its right. Those are the finest addresses in town, formerly the homes of the richest burghers and now of the most venerable banks.

We now arrive at Leidseplein. We have been following the shopping axis of Amsterdam that started at the Dam end of Kalverstraat and will continue on the far side of Leidseplein in P.C. Hooftstraat and van Baerlestraat. First we have a look around at Leidseplein.

Leidseplein

(A3).

The focus of culture and night life in Amsterdam. Many important theaters, museums, restaurants, pubs and nightclubs are around the square and in the streets leading to it. The square is dominated by the Stadsschouwurg, which houses the city theater, the state opera and ballet. There are only a few steps to the famous youth centers of Melkweg and Paradiso.

Usually there is something happening on the square itself, but on a smaller scale than on Dam. There are musicians, singers and contortionists. And a lot of sidewalk cafés. Café Americain is best known of those, with Parisian Left bank atmosphere. Some travelers stay at the American hotel and see no reason to leave the Leidseplein area.

We take a look at the Stadsschouwburg.

Stadsschouwburg

Leidseplein 26. Phone: 624 2311. (A3).

The city theater building dominates Leidseplein square. It is an ornate palace in a Neo-Renaissance Historical style

Formerly it also housed the state opera and the state ballet. The Netherlands opera has got its own venue at the Muziektheater in the new complex on Waterlooplein. Some ballet performances are in the new location and some are still here.

We cross Singelgracht and turn left. On that corner we meet another landmark of Amsterdam, a herring stall, where people stand around and eat cured herring, a more civilized sight than hot-dog eaters. We walk through the canal garden and along Stadhouderskade until we come to Hobbemastraat to the right. From it we take a right turn into Hooftstraat.

Hooftstraat

(A3).

The elegant part of the shopping axis we have been following. Here are the fashion shops and specialty sops with expensive goods.

On the corner of this street and Constantijn Huygenstraat we turn right and go into Vondelpark

Vondelpark

(A3).

A lively green park, much used by joggers, cyclists and drug users.

We return the same way on Huygenstraat and continue on Van Baerlestraat all the way to Concertgebouw, which is on the right side of the street.

Concertgebouw

Van Baerlestraat 98. Phone: 671 8345. (A3).

The famous symphony orchestra with this same name has its own concert hall opposite Museumplein in the museum district. The recently refurbished building seats 2200 people and has unusually good acoustics. It has a classic repertoire and a constant stream of outside conductors, musicians and orchestras.

Beyond Museumplein we see the imposing state museum of art, Rijksmuseum, and on the left the city museum of art, Stedelijk Museum, and Rijksmuseum Vincent van Gogh.

The Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra plays in the Beurs van Berlage.

We go back a few steps on Van Baerlestraat, cross the street and enter the new wing of Stedelijk Museum.

Stedelijk Museum

Paulus Potterstraat 13. Phone: 573 2911. Hours: Open 11-17. (A3).

The museum for 20th C. painting. On the walls are works by Cézanne, Picasso, Renoir, Monet and Manet, also Cagall, Malevich, Kandinsky and Mondrian, even by the younger Cobra group. We also see the newer styles, pop art, conceptual art and whatever they are called now.

The museum has earned respect by constantly buying new works and arranging almost 30 special exhibitions each year.

On leaving the museum we turn right and then right again into Paulus Potterstraat and pass by the older wing of the museum. Next we come to Rijksmuseum Vincent van Gogh on the same side of the street.

Rijksmuseum Vincent van Gogh

Paulus Potterstraat 7. Phone: 570 5200. Hours: Open 10-17. (A3).

The building is from 1973, quite a noteworthy age in this city. It houses one of the most interesting art museums in the world. Nowhere else is there as complete a collection of the paintings of one world famous artist.

Here 200 paintings by van Gogh are exhibited in correct historical order. You can follow his career month after month and in his increasing madness at the end, when he committed suicide at the age of 37 years in 1890. There are also 500 of his sketches.

Most of his other paintings are also in Holland, not far from Amsterdam, in the Kröller-Müller Museum in Hoge Veluwe. Thus Holland has a near monopoly on van Gogh, envied by art lovers elsewhere. The reason behind the concentration is that no one wanted to buy Goghs paintings when he was working in France. Later his relatives arranged for the junk to be sent home to Holland.

We continue on Paulus Potterstraat to Rijksmuseum. At the end of the street we enter the diamond shop of Coster on the left side.

Coster

(A3).

Many good diamond cutters and merchants are in town, showing diamond cutting to tourist groups, and Coster is one of the best. It does not cost anything to watch the old specialist practice this precise art with suitable machinery. But if you want to buy, just name the amount. No matter how high, Coster has something for you.

We now go to the Rijksmuseum. The heavy palace sits on Museumsstraat which passes through its middle. We go to the front side where the entrance is.

Rijksmuseum

Stadhouderskade 42. Phone: 422 0471. Hours: Open 10-17, Sunday 13-17. (A3).

The museum is not really on par with Louvre, Uffizi or Prado, but does come a long way to compare. Its jewel is of course Rembrandt. Then come other Dutch painters such as Frans Hals and Vermeer. The great Dutch painters lived in the 17th C, the golden age of Holland, when authorities and individuals had enough money to pay artists well. Art followed profits.

It is difficult to guide you through the museum. It would take a whole day to see it all. To help those that do not have the time or the inclination, the most famous paintings are exhibited in the central galleries on the left side.

We take a special look at the most famous painting by Rembrandt.

Rembrandt

The focal point of the museum is the giant painting by Rembrandt of the guard patrol of Frans Banning cock and Willem van Ruytenburgh, usually called the Night Watch. Two guards keep an eye on the painting, which really shows a Day Watch, as was discovered when it was cleaned shortly after World War II.

On leaving the museum we walk straight across Singelgracht and Weteringschans, and then continue along Lijnbaansgracht.

Nieuwe Spiegelstraat

(A3).

We are in the district of antique dealers. They are around Spiegelgracht, this part of Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht, and most concentrated in Nieuwe Spiegelstraat, which is a direct continuation of Spiegelgracht. On the short block between Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht there is a solitary wine merchant in the middle of more than two dozens of antique shops.

This concentration is convenient for antiques collectors. They can find here specialists in the most important branches of antiques. And on sale are not only Dutch antiques but also from other countries. French and British objects are prominent in many shops.

When we come to Keizersgracht we turn right along the canal and pass the traffic street Vijzelstraat to arrive at Museum Van Loon at Keizersgracht 672.

Museum Van Loon

Keizersgrach 672. Phone: 624 5255. Hours: Open Sunday 13-17, Monday 10-17. (B3).

A family museum of the Van Loons who have often been prominent in public Amsterdam life. A pretty little garden is behind the house.

We have to make a detour over the bridge to get to Museum Fodor which is opposite Museum van Loon, at Keizersgracht 672.

Museum Fodor

(B3).

The avant-garde museum of art in Amsterdam. It exhibits the works of those who are not yet famous enough to get their works into Stedlijk Museum. Art lovers go here to acquainted with new waves in painting.

The division of work between three great museums is that Fodor exhibits todays art, Stedelijk 20th C. art, and Rijksmuseum the art of earlier centuries.

We return to Viezelstraat, an ugly street with an ugly bank. On the bridge over Herengracht we stop for a moment to look at the golden bend from a different angle this time. Then we continue to Bloemenmarkt on the Singel.

Bloemenmarkt

(B2).

Holland being a country of flowers, here is the world famous flower market floating on Singel canal, from Muntplein to Leidsestraat. For two centuries boats have been moored at the bank, full of the brilliant colors of flowers. Even during high winter flowers are sold here outdoors.

We go back to Viezelstraat and turn left into Muntplein.

Munttoren

(B2).

The square is named after the Munttoren. That tower is from the old city walls. Its name was Reguliers, but it got a new name, when the city minted its own coins in the tower for a while. In the 17th C. it partly burned down and got a new upper half.

The square itself is the main car traffic square in the city.

We continue into Rokin avenue.

Rokin

(B2).

Beyond Rokin we see the palace of Europe with restaurant Excelsior and its chefs working in the cellar almost underwater. On our side of the street there are many diamond jewelers.

We finally arrive by Rokin into the square Dam where we started this walk.

West center

This short walk leads us through the northwestern part of the city center, ending at Anne Frank Huis and Westerkerk.

We again start at Dam. First we take a closer look at Nieuwe Kerk, beside the royal palace.

Nieuwe Kerk

Hours: Open 12-16, Sunday 13-17. (B1).

In spite of its name it is one of the oldest churches in Amsterdam, erected in the 15th C. It is maybe best known for being without a tower. A slender spire was put on the crossing in the 19th C. In the middle of the 17th C. the city fathers had debated whether to build a church tower or a town hall. The latter was decided.

It is actually the Westminster Abbey of Holland, the crowning church of the royal dynasty. There three queens have been crowned in succession, Wilhelmine in 1898, her daughter Juliana in 1948 and granddaughter Beatrix in 1980. The dynasty of Oranje-Nassau has thus been dominated by women for a century. But now Beatrix has reared a crown prince to take over in due time.

Some amusing alleys are behind the church. Gravenstraat is next to it.

Gravenstraat

(B1).

The street is typical of the alleys that criss-cross the district north off Nieuwe Kerk.

At no. 28 is a quaint little cheese shop, Crignon, that cannot take much more than one customer inside at a time, but in spite of that offers over 100 different cheeses from many countries. A cheese restaurant is behind the shop. The old jenever tasting house, Drie Fleschjes, is in the same street. So is the brown pub, Pilserij, and hotel Classic.

We continue on Gravenstraat until we arrive at Nieuwendijk where we turn left.

Nieuwendijk

(B1).

This narrow pedestrian street is a kind of a continuation of Kalverstraat on the north side of Dam, a shopping street, crossed by many passages and alleys. The standards and prices are lower than in Kalverstraat.

As we continue northwards the number of amusement places increases and that of shops decreases. The street makes a sharp turn to the west and ends at Singel.

We take a short detour south along the left bank of Singel both to have a look at the narrowest house in town, at no. 7, and to inspect Ronde Luterse Kerk.

Ronde Luterse Kerk

(B1).

Two million bricks were used to erect this domed Baroque church from 1671. Copper for the roof came from Charles XI, king of Sweden and supporter of Lutheran causes. It has a height of 150 meters. It was deconsecrated and turned into a warehouse until the Renaissance hotel resurrected it as a congress venue.

On our way back we take a better look at Singel no. 7.

Singel 7

(B1).

The narrowest house in Amsterdam, having the width of the front door. We also cross Singel where it meets Nieuwendijk and make a detour into Harlemmerstraat where the narrowest restaurant in the world is at no. 43. It is Groene Lanterne in 17th C. style with waitresses in national costumes.

We return the same way, turn right into Singel and then again right along Brouwersgracht.

Herenmarkt

(B1).

Here at Brouwersgracht the well-known horseshoe canals begin, Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht. Here the canal atmosphere is at its best. We take notice of an unusually well renovated warehouse at no. 118.

Herenmarkt is the central magnet of Brouwersgracht. It is a comfortable square, with old people sitting and children playing.

When we come to Prinsengracht we turn left along its right bank and visit Noorderkerk and the market area around it.

Noorderkerk

(A1).

Built in 1623 and has a ground plan of a Greek crucifix.

We next browse in the Noordermarkt.

Noordermarkt

(A1).

Recently the market around Noorderkerk has taken up real competition with the traditional flea market on Waterlooplein. It now extends far into Westerstraat and there becomes a clothes market. But it is open only on Monday.

The importance of this market increased as the quarter around, Jordaan, came into fashion. Many middle-aged hippies from the students protests of 1968 have now become well-off burghers who can afford to convert old warehouses into modern homes.

The choice and variety is greater here than it is on Waterlooplein, both at the junk end and at the adequate end of the spectrum. On Saturday this is the venue of an amusing bird-market.

We walk south along Prinsengracht and have a glimpse into the side streets to the right. We are in the district Jordaan.

Jordaan

(A1).

Originally this was a slum of French Huguenots who came here as fugitives. Now it has been restored by middle-aged former hippies who have designed and built expensive homes in old warehouses.

We turn right into Egelantiersgracht, a friendly canal which is an example of how well the restoration of Jordaan has succeeded. Of its 8000 houses 800 have been put under official protection.

We return on the other bank of Egelantiersgracht and continue along Prinsengracht which we cross at the next bridge. Then we continue on the left bank and soon arrive at Anne Frank Huis at 263 Prinsengracht.

Anne Frank Huis

263 Prinsengracht. Phone: 626 4533. Hours: Open Monday-Saturday 9-17, Sunday 10-17. (A1).

Anne Frank lived here with seven other Jews in hiding from 1942 until they were betrayed into the hands of the Nazis in August 1944. Here she wrote the diary which has become famous the world over. We see here the bookcase which was at the same time the door to the fugitives hiding place.

We also see the magazine clippings that the girl glued to the wall over her bed. There is a picture of Diana Durbin and other of Princess Margaret. By chance all this was found and among other things her diary.

Readers of four million copies of the diary of Anne Frank can here feel the book in a more dramatic way. Most of the editions are on exhibition here. This is certainly one of the most touching museums in the city.

Just a little farther to south along Prinsengracht we come to Westerkerk.

Westerkerk

(A1).

Erected in 1631 by father and son, Hendrick and Pieter de Keyser, in clean forms and mathematical proportions. It has two short transepts and a quadrangular tower. It is a typical Calvinist church with no chapels in the aisles and with a short chancel in order to shorten the distance between the preacher and the congregation.

The tower is the highest one in Amsterdam, 85 meters, and offers a striking view in good weather for energetic people who are willing to walk the stairs. In the tower there is a bell combination by Francois Hemony who has arranged such combinations in other towers of Amsterdam. These bells play cheerful tunes which the traveler hears in his ears a long time after leaving.

The French philosopher Descartes lived for a while on the square in front of the church, at no. 6. There he wrote in a letter: “In what country would there be found such perfect freedom?” By these words he pointed out that Holland with Amsterdam at the helm has for centuries been a sanctuary for fugitives and others who did not feel that they fit in at home.

From here we can cross Prinsengracht again and learn to know the Jordaan quarter better. A special guidance is not necessary for such an exploration. But if you have got enough of footwork for the time being, we can go via Raadhuisstraat to the east until we reach the former town hall and present royal palace at Dam, from where we started this walk.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson