Amsterdam introduction

Gables

Houses in Amsterdam are built narrow and high as the city tax of the owners was based on the width of the canal front. The personality of the building owner then expressed itself in the detailed design of the gable.

The brick of the gables has many colors. Some houses are light gray, other brownish, yellow, pink or even purple. The tops are different, partly because of changes in fashion in the 17th and 18th C. Each tended to become more elaborate as the wealth of merchants increased.

The gables are not straight. They slope forwards over the street or the canal, as if they were on the verge of collapsing. This is done on purpose as heavy furniture had to be transported through the gable windows as the inner stairs were usually too steep and narrow. At the top is a beam and a block with a rope or a chain. The beams are still evident all over the city.

Life

Live and let live may have originated as a Dutch motto. Behind the conservative appearance of a merchant city of laced curtains there reigns an unusual and for many an unbelievable liberalism, that reaches from prostitutes in shop windows to the free distribution of drugs to patients in doctors waiting rooms and to teenagers in official recreation centers.

Tolerance and diversity has for centuries been the hallmark of Amsterdam. The freedom to worship attracted Portuguese Jews, French Huguenots and German Protestants. The freedom of scholarships attracted Descartes and other thinkers to the city. In modern times young from all over the world still flock to Amsterdam to taste the liberalism of the city.

Amsterdam is built on wooden poles sunk into water-soaked marsh, prone to flooding. Its existence is based upon canal technology. The city is a child of engineering civilization and its fate is intertwined with the fate of civilization. Amsterdam is a Modern Times descendant of the Italian Renaissance city states.

Sights

Central Amsterdam is probably the largest museum in the world, a unique haven of thousands of houses and hundreds of bridges from the 17th C., the Golden Age of Dutch shipping and commerce. Around 7000 houses in the center have been put under official protection, so that the 17th C. could stay forever.

Mile after mile nothing disturbs the harmony of narrow gables, arched bridges and leafy trees. The canals are longer and wider than those in Venice and create a viewing and breathing space in a city that is otherwise closely built. The only discord in the picture comes from the cars on the congested streets and canal banks.

Amsterdam has lots of museums with memories from the Golden Age, when the city was competing with London as the commercial center of the world. But travelers do not really have to visit the museum to meet the 17th C. You have the atmosphere all around you, both outdoors and indoors.

Many hotels have been carved out of the narrow, 300-350 year old canal houses. Still more restaurants are in such old houses, many of them decorated with antiques from the 17th C. Let us not forget the pubs, many of them are still today the same as they were centuries ago.

Embassies

Argentina

Herengracht 94. Phone: 623 2723

Australia

Carnegielaan 10-14, Den Haag. Phone: (70) 310 8200

Austria

Weteringschans 106. Phone: 626 8033

Brazil

Reimersbeek 2. Phone: 301 5555

Canada

Sophialaan 7, Den Haag. Phone: (70) 361 4111

Chile

Stadhouderskade 2. Phone: 612 0086

Czechia

World Trade Center, Strawinskylaan 509. Phone: 575 3016

Denmark

Radarweg 503. Phone: 682 9991

Egypt

Borweg 1, Den Haag. Phone: (70) 354 2000

Finland

Paalbergweg 2-4. Phone: 567 2672

France

Vijzelgracht 2. Phone: 624 8346

Germany

De Lairessestraat 172. Phone: 673 6245

Greece

Keizersgracht 411. Phone: 624 3671

Hungary

Hogeweg 14, Den Haag. Phone: (70) 355 3319

Iceland

Prinsengracht 729. Phone: 638 0370

India

Den Haag. Phone: (70) 346 9771

Indonesia

Asserlaan 8, Den Haag. Phone: (70) 310 8100

Ireland

Dr. Kuyperstraat 9, Den Haag. Phone: (70) 363 0993

Israel

Buitenhof 47, Den Haag. Phone: (70) 364 7850

Italy

Herengracht 609. Phone: 624 0043

Japan

Phone: 624 3581

Luxembourg

Reimersbeek 2. Phone: 301 5622

Malaysia

The Hague. Phone: (70) 350 6506

Mexico

Phone: 301 5545

New Zealand

Carnegielaan 10, Den Haag. Phone: (70) 346 9324

Norway

Keizersgracht 534. Phone: 624 2331

Pakistan

Den Haag. Phone: (70) 364 8948

Philippines

Herengracht 37. Phone: 622 8580

Poland

Alexanderstraat 25, Den Haag. Phone: (70) 360 2806

Portugal

Rotterdam. Phone: (10) 411 1540

Saudi Arabia

Alexanderstraat 19, Den Haag. Phone: (70) 361 4391

South Africa

Wassenaarseweg 40, Den Haag. Phone: (70) 392 4501

Spain

Frederiksplein 34. Phone: 620 3811

Sweden

Neuhuyskade 40, Den Haag. Phone: (70) 324 5424

Switzerland

Johan Vermeerstraat 16. Phone: 664 4231

Turkey

Rotterdam. Phone: (10) 413 2270

United Kingdom

Koningslaan 44. Phone: 676 4343

United States

Museumplein 19. Phone: 664 5661. (A3).

Accident

Phone: 06 11

Ambulance

Phone: 06 11

Complaints

Phone: 06 340 340 66. (B1).

Try the Amsterdam Tourist Authority at Noord-Zuid Hollandsch Koffiehuis, Stationsplein 10, in front of the central railway station.

Dentist

Phone: 664 2111

This number gives information on emergency dental care.

Fire

Phone: 06 11

Hospital

The main hospital is the Academisch Medisch Centrum, Meibergdreef 9, phone 566 3333 for emergencies, 566 9111 for other purposes.

Medical care

Phone: 664 2111

This number gives information on services of medical doctors.

Pharmacy

Phone: 664 2111

Ask for the address of the nearest pharmacy on night duty.

Police

Phone: 06 11

Dutch policemen are seldom seen and are not especially helpful.

Precautions

Drugs are illegal in Holland, even if it condoned in some places. Drugged people can be dangerous. Holland has few crimes, either petty or big. Dont take photos of prostitutes in the red light district. Beware of taxis speeding through narrow canal fronts

Banks

The official and fair GWK currency exchanges at the central railway station and at Schiphol airport are open day and night. Other banks are open Monday-Friday 9-16. Do not bring bank cheques to Holland, use only cash, travelers cheques or plastic. Algemene Bank Nederland does not gladly cash its own cheques.

Children

Amsterdam is difficult for people with small children. The cobbled streets are not suited to prams. Boat cruises are always popular. A restaurant caters specially for children, Kinderkok Kafe, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 193, tel. 625 3257. The Amsterdam Zoo at Artis is good, the oldest one in Europe and includes a Planetarium.

There are tow theaters for children, Elleboog, Passeerdersgracht 32, tel. 626 9370, and Krakeling, Nieuwe Passeerderstraat 1, tel. 624 5123.

Babysit Centrale Kriterion provides 24 hour child care, phone 624 5848 17:30-19.

Credit cards

Credit cards are accepted in hotels, restaurants and shops. Visa and Eurocard (Access, MasterCard) have the largest circulation.

For lost or stolen cards phone: American Express: 642 4488. Diners Club: 06 0334. Eurocard / Mastercard / Access: 010 2070 789. Visa: 06 022 4176.

Electricity

Dutch voltage is 220V, same as in Europe. Plugs are continental.

Hotels

Amsterdam hotels are generally clean and well maintained, including plumbing. Small hotels can be very good, even if they do not have TV sets in guest rooms. Some of them are exquisite gems and some have a canal view. A bathroom is taken for granted nowadays.

We include hotels with private bathrooms only, and in most cases we also demand a direct telephone line, working air-condition, and peace and silence during the night. Only hotels in the city center are included as we want to avoid long journeys between sightseeing and our afternoon naps.

The price ranges from DFl. 110 to DFl. 400, including a substantial breakfast. Low season rates are sometimes available in July-August and November-March.

We checked all the hotels in this database during the winter of 1995-1996 as everything is fickle in this world. We have also tested some other hotels that are not included as they were not on par with the best in each price category. Some expensive hotels in Amsterdam are in fact no better than our selection of small canal-side hotels.

Money

The currency in Holland is the Florin, DFl., usually called Guilder, divided into 100 centimes. There are DFl. 1000, 250, 100, 50, 25 and 10 notes, and coins for DFl. 5, 2,50 and 1 and for 25, 10 and 5 cents.

Prices

Prices are stable in Holland.

Shopping

Most shops are open Monday-Saturday 9-18 and Thursday -21. Many are closed on Monday morning. Shopkeepers in the center are allowed to keep open 7-22 all days.

Non-residents of the European Union get a VAT refund on goods from shops with the sign: “Tax free for tourists”. You get a form there that has to be stamped at customs when you leave the country. From home you post this stamped form to the shop to get a refund. This is too much bother unless you have bought something expensive.

Dutch specialities are wooden clogs, Droste chocolate pastilles, fresh flowers, Gouda cheese, beer and genever, diamonds and Delft or Makkum porcelain.

Street numbers

Canal streets have odd numbers on the downtown side, starting from the north. Other streets are numbered in the direction from the city center.

Tipping

Service is included in hotel and restaurant bills and on taximeters. Some restaurant customers even amounts up to the nearest 5 or 10 DFl. Seat attendants get 1 DFl., also porters who call a taxi.

Toilets

You can use the toilets in cafés and pubs as these are public places.

Tourist office

Stationsplein 10. Phone: 06 340 340 66. Hours: Open Monday-Friday 9-23, Saturday 9-21, Sunday 10-13:30 & 14:30-17:30. (B1).

The information service of the Amsterdam Tourist Authority is at Noord-Zuid Hollandsch Koffiehuis in front of the central railway station.

The Amsterdam pass for tourists includes 25 vouchers, giving free entrance or discounts on entrance to many museums, including other discounts. It costs DFl. 30 at the tourist office.

Water

Believe it or not, Amsterdam tap water is quite drinkable.

Accommodation

Noord-Zuid Hollandsch Koffiehuis, Stationsplein 10. Phone: 06 340 340 66. Hours: Open Monday-Friday 9-23, Saturday 9-21, Sunday 10-13:30 and 14:30-17:30. (B1).

The Amsterdam Tourist Authority in Noord-Zuid Hollandsch Koffiehuis in front of the central railway station finds hotel rooms for travelers. Rooms on the outside are often more bright and airy, and sometimes have a view to a canal, but can also be more noisy that those on the inside

Airport

Phone: 06 350 340 50

The bus to Schiphol airport leaves every 15 minutes from the central railway station. The trip takes just under half an hour. Dial 511 0432 for current information on flight arrivals and departures.

Schiphol airport has for years been generally considered to be the most user-friendly airport in the world.

Boats

Canal boats leave from 11 piers for one-hour sightseeing on the canals. The comfort and prices of the boat companies are similar.

Cycles

(B1).

A centrally located bicycle rental is Koenders, 33 Stationsplein, at the central railway station.

News

International newspapers are readily available in Amsterdam. Some English channels are usually on TV sets in hotels. Information on what is on in the city is in the monthly Amsterdam Times or in Time Out Amsterdam and Whats On.

Phone

The Dutch country code is 31 and the local code for Amsterdam is 20. The foreign code from Holland is 00.

Post

Singel 250-256. Phone: 556 3311. Hours: Open Monday-Friday 9-18, Saturday 9-13. (B2).

Railways

The Dutch railway is quick, efficient and cheap. The trains are clean as Holland is on the whole.

Taxis

Phone: 677 7777

Dial the number or walk to the nearest taxi stand. You wave a cab down when the roof-light is on.

Traffic

Cheap two-day, three-day and four-day tickets with unlimited access to all lines of buses, trams and the underground metro are available at the information service of the Amsterdam Tourist Authority at Smits Koffiehuis, Stationsplein 10, in front of the central railway station. Most routes start and end at the central railway square.

Cycles are the easiest and quickest way to get around in central Amsterdam.

Bruine kroegs

The Dutch pub specialty are the “bruine kroegs”, that are on most street corners in central Amsterdam. They are usually small, and also dark, owing to small windows and dark wood in the furnishings. Thence their generic name, that means: “brown pubs”.

Cuisine

As the British the Dutch have a substantial breakfast. At lunch they make do with small things, possibly a Koffietafel at a Broodjeswinkel, that is coffee and bread at a corner bakery. The main meal is dinner and then people eat heartily.

Starters are: Kaassoufflé, deep-fried cheese; Haring, their type of herring, sold from stands at street corners; and Aal Gestoofd, spiced eel. Soups are: Erwtensoep, a thick pea soup of port stock; Kippensoep, a thick chicken and vegetable soup; Groentensoep, a clear vegetable soup; and Aardappelsoep, a potato soup.

Fish courses are: Gebakken Zeetong, pan-fried sole; Gerookte paling, smoked eel; and Stokvis, poached saltfish. Meat courses are: Stamppot, everything in one pot; Biefstuk, chopped beef; Boerenkool met worst, cabbage and potatoes with smoked sausage, served with mashed potatoes; Gehaktballjes, small meat dumplings; and Hutspot, beef, carrots and onions in a pot.

Desserts are: Appeltaart, a cinnamon spiced apple pie; Stoopwafels, waffles with syrup; Pannekoeken, big pancakes; and Flensjes, a heap of pancakes with jam between layers. Among Dutch cheeses Edam, Gouda and Leiden are famous. The national drink is Jenever or Genever, either drunk Jonge, young, or Oude, old. From Jenever many liqueurs are made, spiced or sweet.

Jenever

The national alcoholic drink is Jenever, either drunk Jonge, young, or Oude, old. From Jenever many liqueurs are made, spiced or sweet.

The well-known Dutch distilleries have small tasting outlets in the center of Amsterdam, called “proeflookale”, usually with standing room at the bar only.

Restaurants

The Dutch take their meals early. Usual lunch hours are 12:15-13:30, dinner hours 19-21. Waiters speak excellent English and Dutch restaurants are generally spotless.

The Dutch have not accepted French cuisine as completely as their neighbors. They still keep to their old-fashioned cooking and like to dine in snug and cozy rooms with traditional Dutch antiques and traditional Amsterdam atmosphere.

A Dutch restaurant specialty are the Petits Restaurants serving simple and solid lunches without pretensions. Another specialty are the Brodjewinkels or sandwich corners. A third one are the Pannekoekenhuis, that sell big pancakes with different spreads such as honey and cinnamon.

Rijsttafel

The Dutch were the colonial power in Indonesia. Many Indonesians have therefore settled in Holland. They have introduced their national cuisine and made Indonesian restaurants a cornerstone of modern Dutch cooking, especially in Haag and Amsterdam. The Dutch specialty of Indonesian cuisine is Rijsttafel or rice table. The best Rijsttafel in the world is in Amsterdam.

It consists of 14-24 small dishes, kept on warm plates. They surround Nasi, steamed rice, which guests put in small amounts on the soup-plate. Then they bring the side courses to the plate, one at a time. They are eaten separately in order to preserve the special taste of each one. The braves put Sambal, hot pepper, on the edge. On the side they have Krupuk, crispy prawn bread.

Often there is soup, Sajor, usually made of chicken stock. Among the vegetable dishes are: Sambal Goreng Sajoran, a salad with a strong taste; Sambal Goreng Tahu, a soy-bean cake; Sambal Goreng Kering, sweet potatoes; Gado Gado, pan-fried vegetables, mainly sprouts, with chopped peanuts; and Atjar, vegetables in a sour sauce.

Meat dishes are Babi Ketjap, port in soy sauce; Daging Madura, mutton in madura sauce; Ayam Bali, fried chicken in a complex sauce; Sateh, mixed grill on skewers, often pork, when it is called Sateh Babi. Other dishes are: Udang, big prawns; and Dadar Jawa, an omelet. Desserts are: Serundeng, grilled coconuts; Pisang Goreng, fried bananas; and Katjang, chopped peanuts.