London walks

Shopping

Most shops are open 9-17 Monday-Saturday. Some open one hour earlier and close one hour later. Some close earlier on Saturday. Covent Garden shops are also open on Sunday. Late shopping until 19 or 20 is on Thursday in the West End, elsewhere on Wednesday. In many shops foreign visitors can fill out a form for later refund of VAT.

London really shines when it comes to specialty shops. Some of them date from the last century or even before that. Antique shops as an example are categorized in dozens of special subjects, epochs or countries. Most of these shops are in the St Jamess district and the eastern part of the Mayfair district.

It is a joy to shop or window-shop in old, famous and often expensive shops, not maybe for buying anything but for sightseeing them as other important landmarks of the city. And ancient commerce in London is no less interesting than old churches, museums and sculpture.

We start our guided tour through London shopping in front of St Jamess Palace, on the corner of Pall Mall and St Jamess Street.

Hardy

61 Pall Mall. (D3).

One of the most famed sport fishing shops in the world is on the Pall Mall side of the corner, at no. 61. You can buy there the most expensive rod-wheels obtainable, of course specially made by hand for the establishment as most other things on display, such as rods of fiberglass and carbon threads.

Almost at the other end of Pall Mall, near Haymarket, is the other famous house for sport fishing, Farlow, at no. 56, which has an edge in being a purveyor to the Royal Court. Even those who do not believe in royalty must admit that it knows a lot about salmon fishing.

We walk around the corner into St Jamess Street.

Berry Brothers

3 St Jamess Street. (D3).

The oldest wine boutique in London, from the 18th C., at no. 3. The furnishings are ancient and the floor is far from horizontal. Inside there is the famous scale where renowned customers and weighted.

Two other things are of note here: All the wine is available on the premises. And it is less expensive than in most other wine shops in London. On our last visit Chateau Langloa-Barton 1971 did only cost £12 and Kiedricher Sandgrub only £7.

Alongside there is another important shop.

Lock

6 St Jamess Street. (D3).

A hat shop from 1765, at no. 6. One of the landmarks of London is the ancient equipment resembling an old typewriter, which is still used to record the shape of the clients heads. After measurement a suitable hat is heated and then molded in a form fitting the client.

This is the place where the first bowler in the world was made. But nowadays they also sell sixpensers. The shop also boasts of an unique collection of old hats.

A few steps farther along the street we come to another shop of note.

Lobb

9 St Jamess Street. (D3).

This shop at no. 9 has made shoes for the royal family for several decades. In the small shop there is a thrilling smell of leather and we can observe the shoemakers at their work. Replicas of customers feet are cut in wood and all shoes are handmade.

They cost at least £150 the pair and you have to wait for them for six months. But they are also supposed to last for a decade with proper maintenance.

Next we turn right into King Street.

Christie‘s

8 King Street. (D3).

One of the two world-renowned auction houses, at no. 8. Mondays they usually auction pottery and porcelain; Tuesdays drawings, coins, glass and antiques; Wednesdays jewelry, books and weapons; Thursdays furniture and wine; and on Friday they auction paintings. The auctions normally start at 11. The items are usually exhibited for two days before the auction.

We walk back a few steps and turn right into Bury Street, which we walk all the way to Jermyn Street.

Turnbull & Asser

71 Jermyn Street. (D3).

We have come to the main shopping street for men, Jermyn Street. On our left corner, at no. 71, there is a shirt shop for men. It sells both ready-made and specially cut shirts, which you have to wait six weeks for. The establishment is always fashionable even if it was founded in 1885. Both service and prices are in the sky.

On the right side we have Hilditch & Key, the other famous shop for mens shirts. This one has also shirts for women.

We now work to the east along Jermyn Street and soon arrive at other interesting shops.

Floris

89 Jermyn Street. (D3).

On the right side of the street, at no. 89, an 250 years old outfit, offering perfume since 1730. Everybody can afford to buy bathing salts here in order to use the occasion to have a look around in one of the great perfumery shops of the world.

Do remember that Chanel and other Parisians are only 19th and 20th C. upstarts. This is a delightful and of course an especially fragrant shop.

Just a little farther on the same side we come to another shopping landmark.

Paxton & Whitfield

93 Jermyn Street. (D2).

The most celebrated and most enjoyable cheese house in the city, at no. 93. It has operated since the end of the 18th C. Here you can buy all the best English cheeses, both Stilton and Cheddar, in addition to 300 other types from all corners of the world.

They also sell the cheese in thin slices. If they do not have the cheese you ask for, they will deliver it before the end of the tenth day.

Now we cross the street and walk back a few steps until we arrive at Princes Arcade to the right, leading to Piccadilly. It is one of a few pedestrian shopping arcades in the metropolis. In Piccadilly we turn left and immediately we arrive at a gem of a shop.

Hatchards

187 Piccadilly. (D2).

The oldest book-shop in London, located here at no. 187 since 1767. Over 350,000 titles are on four floors. The atmosphere is enticing for bookworms with plenty of time on their hands.

We continue a few steps along Piccadilly and enter one of the major landmarks of London.

Fortnum & Mason

181 Piccadilly. (D2).

Here at no. 181 is the traditional gourmet shop in town and the Queens grocer at the same time. The specialty of the house is preserves and jams in jars and tins. The shop is gastronomically really not comparable to Harrods, but it is worth a visit because of the unique atmosphere accented by attendants in coat-tails.

Above the ground floor there are normal department store goods for sale.

A few steps farther along Piccadilly there is Piccadilly Arcade, a nice little pedestrian lane, leading like Princess Arcade to Jermyn Street. Then we cross Piccadilly as on the opposite side is the most famous arcade of them all.

Burlington Arcade

Burlington Arcade. (D2).

The most elegant and famous pedestrian passage in London, built 1815-1819. Many renowned, small shops are in particularly relaxed and comfortable surroundings in the arcade.

The least we can do is to walk back and forth in the passage. Arriving again at Piccadilly we walk a few steps to the right. Then we turn right into Old Bond Street.

Charbonnel et Walker

7 Old Bond Street. (D2).

The disco Embassy is on this side of the street, at no. 7. A little farther on the other side is the best known chocolate boutique in London, Carbonnel et Walker, where customers can have their initials on the sweets they buy.

Alongside the shop we see one more pedestrian passage, Royal Arcade. Almost opposite on the other side of Old Bond Street there is a famous establishment.

Truefitt & Hill

23 Old Bond Street. (D2).

The most famed barber in town, at no. 23, has the Duke of Edinburgh and the Prince of Wales among the clients, also half the House of Lords. It is also the oldest barber in London. You will have your hair nicely cut at a price which is not higher than elsewhere in the center.

Here the street changes it name to New Bond Street. On the other side we soon notice one more famous shop.

Asprey

167 Old Bond Street. (D2).

One of the better known jewelers, at no. 167, with many imposing windows facing the street. And of course this shop is a purveyor to the Royal Court.

Please note that we are only mentioning a few gems among lots of other shops of interest.

We continue north along New Bond Street and make a short detour to the left into Bruton Street.

Holland & Holland

33 Bruton Street. (D2).

At the gunsmiths at no. 33. you can, as the Duke of Edinburgh, get terribly expensive hunting guns with a waiting time of three years and a half.

We can also look to the south side of the street to observe how the old tavern Coach & Horses contrasts with the faceless modern buildings around.

Back in New Bond Street we continue to the north.

Wildenstein

New Bond Street. (D2).

The king of antique paintings dealers in the world has his world central premises on this side near the corner of Bruton Street. Here paintings change owners for enormous sums.

On the opposite side, at no. 26, there is Tessiers, one of the oldest and most revered antique jewelry shops in London.

Antiques enthusiasts should know that we are only skimming the enormous antiques scene in Mayfair.

Farther along the right side we come to a landmark.

Sotheby‘s

35 New Bond Street. (D2).

One of the two London auction houses of world fame, at no. 35. This one is the older one and probably the better known one. It is also bigger, holding about 500 auctions each year. The items are on exhibition for one week before the auction and catalogues are available one month beforehand.

Mondays are for books and glass, Tuesdays for books and porcelain, Wednesdays for paintings, Thursdays for silver and jewelry and Fridays for furniture and objects of art.

Here New Bond Street is changing from a street of classic English shops into a street of the subsidiaries of the international fashion houses of Paris and Milan. We soon cross Grosvenor Street and continue on New Bond Street to a shop on the right side.

Smythson

54 New Bond Street. (D2).

The paper shop on the right side, at no. 54, is a purveyor to the Royal Court. It specializes in innovative and outrageous letterheads and Christmas cards. You will find there some charming gifts.

Next we turn left into Brook Street to the west and immediately after that to the right into South Molton Street.

South Molton Street

South Molton Street. (D2).

A lively pedestrian street with small shops and pavement cafés.

On the right side we enter an establishment.

Molton Brown

58 South Molton Street. (D2).

The hairdresser at no. 58 is the most celebrated one in town, decorated in a turn-of-the-century style.

We walk a little farther on this side of the street.

Higgins

42 South Molton Street. (D2).

One of the best coffee shops in London, at no. 42, gleaming of copper and fragrant of beans from all corners of the world, including beans from Higgins private fields on the slopes of Kilimanjaro. Here around 30 types of coffee are sold in an atmosphere of bygone times. Please note the big scales.

Almost alongside there is one more gem.

Prestat

40 South Molton Street. (D2).

The best chocolate maker in the metropolis, at no. 40. The sweets are made by hand on the premises and sold fresh over the antique counter. Originally this shop was in Paris but moved here in the beginning of this century. Without doubt you can get here the best sweets in London, especially truffles and cherry brandy.

We have now reached Oxford Street.

Oxford Street

Oxford Street. (D2).

Most of the amusing shops are behind us and now the seriousness of the department stores is in front of us. Oxford Street is one of the main shopping streets in London and by far the most important street of department shops.

First we turn westward on Oxford Street on its south side until we have passed the imposing Selfridge palace on the other side. There we cross the street and enter a store on the left side of the palace.

Marks & Spencer

458 Oxford Street. (C2).

The main store of the famous chain, at no. 458, one of the best department stores in town, if you compare quality and price and want value for money. 30 thieves are said to be apprehended here per day.

We return on Oxford Street and have a look into the big palace.

Selfridges

Oxford Street. (C2).

The immense and trustworthy department store often offers better choice than the famous Harrods. As it will take a whole day to inspect the store we save it for a special trip later, given time.

While strolling east along Oxford Street we do some window-shopping. On the far corner of Oxford Circus we come to another famous department store.

Top Shop

Oxford Circus. (D2).

In the cellar of the Peter Robinson department store. It is one of the most spacious fashion floors in Europe. Many well-known fashion houses have their private stands there. This is a good place for trying on the newest fashion without paying outrageous prices.

Now we turn south along the eastern side of Regent Street and continue our window-shopping. Soon we reach one more department store.

Liberty

210 Regent Street. (D2).

A captivating department store, at no. 210, rather more expensive than most of the others. It also boasts of a beautiful half-timbered facade toward Great Marlborough Street. That part is built from the timbers of the last two timer ships of the navy in 1924.

Here you can get famous, printed cottons and Eastern rugs, fine silk and furniture. The items range from antiques to high fashion.

Behind Liberty, on the corner of Great Marlborough Street and Carnaby Street there is an interesting shop.

Galt

Great Marlborough Street. (D2).

A special shop for educational toys, many solely produced for this shop. Wood is much in evidence in the appealing toys. This is a good shopping place for parents who wish to keep standards in their gifts to the children.

We ignore Carnaby Street and its tourists as its days of fame have long since passed, blessed were they. Instead we return to Regent Street and turn south past Liberty to a large shop of interest.

Hamleys

200 Regent Street. (D2).

One of the giants of toy shops of this world, at no. 200.

Here we cross Regent Street and go into Conduit Street and then turn left into Savile Row, the address of the best-known bespoke tailors in the British Empire.

Huntsman

11 Savile Row. (D2).

The top bespoke tailor, at no. 11, the tailor of kings and lords. Around 1800 this shop changed from a glove shop into a sportswear shop, since then evolving into a general clothes shop. But its specialty is still sportswear.

You can have whatever sewn here, both for women and men, even clothes from denim. But you have to expect a waiting of twelve weeks and to pay at least £400 for the privilege of clothes which should keep for a quarter of a century if you can take care of your lines for such a long time.

At the south end of Savile Row we turn left into Vigo Street, cross Regent Street and go directly into Brewer Street.

Slater & Cooke, Bisney & Jones

67 Brewer Street. (E2).

The butchers shop with the long name, at no. 67, is from 1860 and is still one of the most thrilling meat shops in town. Every type of meat is displayed at its special counter and the displays do a lot for your saliva. Therefore it is high time to use the occasion to finish our shopping spree and enter one of the many restaurants in the area.

A few shops in addition are worth a visit, but do not fit into our recently finished stroll through St Jamess and the eastern part of Mayfair. One of them is Foyle.

Foyle

119-125 Charing Cross Road. (E2).

The largest bookshop in London with four million titles. It has often proved to be a safer bet than some of the specialized bookshops. It is rather disorganized though, and it is advisable to ask the way on the ground floor not to get lost on the higher storeys.

In the eastern side streets of Charing Cross Road, such as Cecil Court, are many good merchants of antique books, where you can while away the days.

We continue to seek out stores in London.

Purdey

57 South Audley Street. (C2).

The royal gunsmith, the perfect place for buying a firearm for your fox-hunting, if you have £ 30,000 available and can wait for two years. If you become bankrupt in doing so you can always sell the firearm at a profit, as there are always buyers waiting. Every gun is handmade according to the measurements of the client and only 100 are made each year.

Whittard

11 Fulham Road. (B4).

The traditional tea-shop of the metropolis, near the South Kensington station. It offers over fifty different types plus many blends and herbs. Here civilization is kept intact after the invasion of tea-bags.

Kings Road

Kings Road. (C4).

A great shopping district centers on Kings Road, from Sloane Square to the southwest, but it does not quite keep the style it had in the sixties when this was the fashion center of London.

The district moving upwards and upmarket at the moment is Covent Garden. The restoration of the market has pumped blood into shopping in the surrounding streets. That is the place where to search for interesting, new shops.

We finish by visiting a temple of shopping, the Harrods department store.

Harrods

Brompton Road. (C3).

A celebrated landmark. The reason for us liking it is not that they sell you live elephants. The choice of goods is in many cases inferior from that of Selfridges. And thrice in a row we have been reduced to go elsewhere, as a top product was not available here.

What is really ravishing here is the food department on the ground floor. It is far better than Fortnum & Mason in Piccadilly and comes near to the gourmet magazines of Paris. It does not lessen the impression that the meat hall resembles a cathedral. Here you can get three different types of real caviar and fresh goose-liver to go with you champagne for breakfast.

In the neighborhood there is a good shopping district around Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, the north end of Sloane Street and Beauchamp Place, which is a charming street leading off Brompton Road.

We end by having a quick look into Beauchamp Place.

Beauchamp Place

Beauchamp Place. (C4).

A charming shopping street leading off Brompton Road.

Tower

(I2).

One of the main landmarks of the metropolis, the Tower of London, was built in 1077 and the following years by William the Conqueror, more as an admonition to the population than a defense against external threats. Its White Tower is one of the oldest substantial castles in Western Europe, a good example of the rectangular, towerlike castles of the Normans.

At that time the Romans had been away for over six centuries. London make few ripples in world history during Anglo-Saxon rule. The city first began to grow as a commercial center after the Normans had taken over. Richard the Lionhearted started to build ramparts around the White Tower late in the 12th C. At the close of the 13th C. it had acquired more or less its present look.

It was a royal residence all the way to the 17th C., an arsenal and a treasury. The royal jewels are still kept there and exhibited. The jewels and the Tower are guarded by the famed Yeoman Warders, better known as Beefeaters, in 16th C. Tudor costumes.

We enter through the Middle Tower gate, cross the moat between the inner and outer fortifications, and continue to the central grounds of the castle, dominated by the central White Tower.

White Tower

(I2).

White Tower rises from the grounds with over four meter thick walls and towers on all four corners. It is the original part of the castle, from 1077. Inside there is an interesting collection of armor and arms on the two lower floors. Above them is the Chapel of St John from 1080, still looking much the same as nine centuries ago, a perfect example of early Norman architecture.

In the grounds we see the waiting line for the crown jewels exhibition. The line moves quickly. but it is advisable to be here as soon a possible after the Tower is opened at 9:30 to evade the crowds. Among the jewels is the greatest diamond in the world, the 530 carats Star of Africa from the Cullinan stone, and the historical 109 carats Kohinoor diamond.

On our way back out of the grounds we first enter Bloody Tower.

Bloody Tower

(I2).

Tower was the prison of well known enemies of the sovereign, such as Anne Boleyn, Mary Stuart and finally Rudolf Hess during the 2nd World War.

In the Bloody Tower Richard III is said to have had the little princes put to death.

We leave by the Traitors Gate, through which prisoners could be brought on boats into the castle. We pass the Bell Tower from the early 13th C. and cross the moat again to exit by the Middle Tower. Out of the castle we walk down to the Thames embankment, where we have an excellent view of the castle, and also of Tower Bridge.

Tower Bridge

(I3).

This bridge is the one farthest downriver, built 1886-1894 in a Gothic imitation in Victorian style. It is a drawbridge, surprisingly quick in letting ships pass through.

From the bridge there is a splendid view over the river and the battleship Belfast, which is moored and on exhibit to the west of the bridge.

We continue along the embankment, go past the Tower hotel and arrive at St Katherines Dock.

St Katherine‘s Dock

(I3).

The dock was made in 1827-1828 and was then one of the main harbors of London, and the harbor closest to the City. Now a few old ships have been collected there, among them the Discovery, used by Scott on his journey to Antarctica.

A disused warehouse has been renovated and changed into the Dickens Tavern, a fine place for a pint after this sightseeing walk.

Then we take the shortest way along a walking path on the north side of the harbor up to Tower Hill underground station, where we see remains of the ancient London Wall.

London Wall

(H2).

From the pedestrian subway under the street from the station to the Tower we can see remains of the London Wall, built by Romans around the city after queen Boadicea of the Celts had destroyed London in the year 61. Then Londinium, as the Romans called it, was a young city, only about two decades of age.

The remnants of the wall can be seen elsewhere around City and are mainly from the 2nd D. Some streets in City still show in their names where there were gates in the wall: Ludgate, Newgate, Aldersgate, Moorgate, Bishopsgate and Aldgate.

The wall was not moved when the city grew. Instead it was repeatedly rebuilt in the same place during the Middle Ages. Most of the present-day City, except for the Fleet Street area, is inside the limits of the old wall.

This walk is at its end.

City

Ancient London was built in the area that now constitutes the City. It was always a commercial town. The kings moved to neighboring Westminster in the 11th C. to build their palaces there. An ensuing battle of power between City and Westminster reflected the battle of power between merchants and aristocrats.

Ever since the City has retained a special position, both in London as a community and in relation to the Crown. Its system of liveried societies of merchants and tradespeople, who elect a mayor, has survived until this day.

Now City is best known as one of the great world centers of banks and other financial institutions. It is also known for its many churches, with the immense St Pauls as the primary example.

When we embark from the Bank underground station we are on a famous corner where seven of the main streets of City radiate in all directions. The Bank of England is on our left side.

Bank of England

Hours: Open Monday-Friday 10-17 and in summer Sunday 11-17. (H2).

The bank was founded in 1694 to raise money for military campaigns. It evolved into the central bank of England and its currency bank. The present building is from 1788. It is now a museum displaying items from the history of the bank.

The Stock Exchange can be seen behind the Bank of England. It is a modern building that houses the third biggest stock exchange in the world. A stock exchange has been here since 1773. The public gallery is not open to the public any more.

On the corner in front of Bank of England is the Royal Exchange.

Royal Exchange

(H2).

The Exchange has been in operation since 1565 as a center for commercial exchange of goods and money. The present building, from 1844, has a Greek colonnade front of classical proportions.

The name of the street between the Bank of England and Royal Exchange is Threadneedle Street reminding us of the market that was here in olden times, as other neighboring streets do: Cornhill, Poultry, Cheapside, Eastcheap and Bread Street. And these street names are almost the sole survivors from earlier times. All around we see appalling post-war bank architecture.

But wait. We can get a glimpse of bygone times if we walk about 100 meters into Cornhill and then take a dive to the right into the second or third pedestrian passage leading toward Lombard Street.

Lombard Street

(H2).

Between Cornhill and Lombard Street we find a surprising maze of alleys reminding us of earlier days. These passages also lead us to cozy places like the neighbors George & Vulture and the Jamaica Wine House who are like oases here. The former tavern boasts of six centuries of age and the latter of three of them.

If we continue along the mews and cross Gracechurch Street, we arrive at the Leadenhall market.

Leadenhall Market

(H2).

The market has been here since Roman times. It is now a retail market for meat, fish, vegetables, fruit and cheese. Its pride is the wildfowl. This is the place where to buy quail and grouse for Christmas.

From the market we return to Gracechurch Street and turn left along the street down to the Monument.

The Monument

(H2).

Built in memory of the Great Fire of 1666, when almost the whole of City burnt down. Once there was a good view from the top of the Monument, but it has largely been spoiled by the surrounding concrete towers of the post-war extremes in architectural ugliness.

We can continue to stroll around in City to inspect some of the churches built by the architect Christopher Wren in the years after the Great Fire. His fans can find 29 churches in City built by him, but we shall on our next walk make do with one.

We can also stroll west over King William Street, into Arthur Street and from there along pedestrian lanes to the Cannon Street underground station. A few steps from Arthur Street we stumble upon the wine bar Olde Wine Shades in a house from 1663, preceding the Great Fire. We end his walk there.

St Pauls Cathedral

(G2).

Christopher Wren built the cathedral in the years after the great fire of 1666. In the same place there had earlier stood at least two churches, the first built in 604. The medieval church was probably even larger than Wrens church, in spite of the latter being one of the very largest cathedrals in the world.

St Pauls has a plan of an English Gothic church, a cross church with a very long chancel, but built in Renaissance style with Romanesque colonnades. Wren tended to the Baroque style and quarreled with the building committee who found that style too Catholic and forced him to develop the church in the Mannerist Renaissance style of Protestantism.

Over the crossing there soars a 30 meter wide dome, rather Gothic in form, resembling St Peters in Rome. In addition Wren was able to build the western towers in Gothic style.

We enter the church and walk along the nave to the crossing.

St Pauls interior

The crossing is bright and spacious. It is carried by eight strong arches. Behind the ceiling there is a brick wall which carries the lantern on the top of the dome.

Where the nave and the southern transept meet there is a spiral staircase leading up to the famed Whispering Gallery with a good view down into the church, and to the Stone Gallery with a view over London. Those who do not feel dizzy at heights can continue upwards to the Golden Gallery at the feet of the top lantern and have a thrilling view in clear weather.

It seems a miracle that St Pauls was spared during the air raids of the 2nd World War when the surrounding district burnt down and only the cathedral stood above the flames.

Inns of Court

The Inns of Court are the four legal associations in London, dating back to the 14th C. They built their offices around hidden gardens that still are gems in the western part of City.

We start at the Chancery Lane underground station. From High Holborn we walk through one of three gates, no. 21 or Fulwood Place or Warwick Court to enter Grays Inn.

Grays Inn

Hours: Open Monday-Friday 12-14, longer on Friday. (F1).

We are in a maze of alleys, courtyards, proportioned houses and fragrant gardens, a sublime oasis hidden from the tumult of the town. Here are the offices of the lawyers in Grays Court, one of the four legal associations of London.

This one was founded in the 14th C. The oldest houses are from the 17th C. and the gardens a little younger, designed by Sir Francis Bacon. They are open to the public 12-14 on weekdays and further into the afternoon on Friday.

We return to High Holborn through one of the passages. On the other side of the street, a little to the left, we see Staple Inn.

Staple Inn

(F1).

A row of houses, which are four centuries old, built 1586-1596. This front is the only example in London of how the finer streets looked like in the days of Elizabeth I. Do notice the half-timbering with beams and gables and overhanging storeys. In the middle an arcade leads to the courtyards behind.

A little more to the west High Holborn meets Chancery Lane to the south. We turn into that street and walk along the eastern facade of Lincolns Inn, go past its Stone Buildings Gate and arrive at the Gatehouse of Lincolns Inn.

Lincoln‘s Inn

Hours: Open 12-14:30. (F2).

The Gatehouse still has its original oak doors from 1518, almost half a millennium old. The brick building has square towers in the corners.

Behind it there is the Old Square with buildings from Tudor times, restored in 1609. The Old Hall is from 1490. The chapel at the north end of the square dates from 1619-1623.

The proper gardens are to the west, elegant and pleasant, surrounded by the old and traditional architecture from those times when good taste had not gone out of fashion.

From the gardens we stroll south New Square and through a gate from 1697 to Carey Street where we are behind the palace of the Royal Courts of Justice. We walk around the eastern side of the palace to arrive at its front end in Fleet Street.

Royal Courts of Justice

(F2).

An ornamental Neo-Gothic palace from Victorian times, housing the main civil courts of London, often with television crews in front. The public is admitted to all the proceedings in the courtrooms.

On the other side of Fleet Street we see a gateway. Prince Henrys Room is alongside the gateway.

Prince Henry‘s Room

Hours: Open Monday-Saturday 11-14. (F2).

The original, half-timbered building was built in 1610, paneled with oak.

We enter the gateway to the Middle Temple.

Middle Temple

(F2).

One of the legal villages in City. The gatehouse of red brick from 1684 is by Christopher Wren. Behind it we find a new maze of passages, courtyards and squares, with less greenery than we saw in the other Inns of Court.

Of special interest is the Middle Temple Hall from 1562-1570, especially the roof beams and oak partitions. The hall is closed 12-15. The story goes that Shakespeare performed himself here in The Midsummer Nights Dream in 1602.

To the east there is an alley to the Inner Temple, one more of the legal associations leading us to the Templar Church.

Inner Temple

(F2).

This is the village of the last of the four legal associations dominating this walk through the western part of City.

We come to the circular Temple Church.

Temple Church

Hours: Open 10-17. (F2).

The most important building in the Inner Temple. It is the Templar Church, circular like the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. It was built 1160-1185 and is one of the oldest Gothic buildings in Britain.

The church was the center of a great monastery founded by the Templar Knights about 1160. That order was disbanded in the 14th C. Then the lawyers took over and have since then been in charge.

We walk Inner Temple Gateway through a half-timbered gateway from 1610 in Tudor style, restored in 1906. Here we are again in Fleet Street.

Fleet Street

(F2).

It is at the western end of City, the great street of journalism in the earlier decades of the century, but now most of the media have moved elsewhere. Just by Middle Temple Gateway there is Temple Bar, which the Queen is not allowed to pass into City without a special permission from the Lord Mayor of London, who is elected by the livery companies or trade guilds.

If we walk Fleet Street to the east, past Inner Temple Gateway, we soon reach el Vino wine bar. From the north side of the street numerous alleys lead north, among other places to Dr. Johnsons House from about 1700. On the same side of Fleet Street is Cheshire Cheese, an old pub from 1667.

From here the newspaper and news agencies buildings dominate the street all they way east to Ludgate Circle where we see St Pauls cathedral towering on the hill beyond. Under the rails at Ludgate Circus is the wine bar Mother Bunchs If we walk west along New Bridge Street to the Blackfriars station, the Black Friar pub is opposite the station.

This walk is at its end.

Covent Garden

(E2).

London has as other cities and towns and villages of the world got a city center life, its human centerpoint for locals and visitors. A decade ago the famous fruit and vegetable market was moved out of Covent Garden and a human desert was left behind. But now the market and its surroundings have been given a new lease of life with systematic civic action.

It is now pulsating in pavement cafés and pubs. The market building itself is from 1832 and the iron and glass roofs are younger. Now it houses cafés, pubs, wine bars, small shops, fashion boutiques and outdoor markets. The balcony of the Punch & Judy pub is an optimal observing point for the happenings in the square below.

Inside the market there is the outdoor Cafe Delicatessen and at the other end the good wine bar Crusting Pipe. All these places are suitable for resting your feet between visits to the shops in the market and in the neighborhood. Covent Garden has refuted the fallacy of London being such a rainy place to make sidewalk cafés impossible. Restoration has succeeded above all dreams.

We start by going to the square between the Covent Market buildings and the church of St Pauls.

The Piazza

(E2).

Usually there are happenings here at lunch time when the human flow is at its heaviest. There are also happenings at other times, but lunch is the best time. We observe at one single lunch time a man with a marionette doll, a rock band and a contortion artist.

The optimal observing point is the balcony of the Punch & Judy bar as from there you can see over the heads of the crowd.

The streets leading west from the piazza, King Street and Henrietta Street are interesting restaurant streets, full of life. Even more agreeable is the pedestrian New Row, a continuation of King Street.

We observe the church in front of us.

St Pauls in Covent Garden

(E2).

The 350 years old church was designed by the famous Palladian architect Inigo Jones. It is the most beautiful and the first Neoclassic district church in London. Now it is the funeral church of the theater set.

We walk past the Covent Garden market buildings and the short and pedestrian Russell Street to Bow Street, where we turn left, go past the Floral Hall of glass to the Royal Opera building.

Royal Opera

(E2).

The present building has a portico and pediment facing Bow Street, but the opera itself has been here since 1728, starting with The Beggars Opera. It houses both the Royal Opera and the Royal Ballet. It is one of the most important opera houses of the world and has been a magnet for other theaters in the same district.

We continue on Bow Street, turn left into Long Acre and right into the pedestrian Neal Street.

Neal Street

(E2).

19th C. warehouses have been converted into boutiques, galleries and restaurants, many of them specializing in health. The best known part of the street is north of Shorts Gardens. On our left there is Neals Yard with the Wholefood Warehouse, overflowing with health foods.

We walk Shorts Gardens to the southwest and turn left into Monmouth Street which soon changes into St Martins Lane.

St Martins Lane

(E2).

The area around St Martins Lane has many theaters and restaurants. One of the streets leading off it, to the right, is Garrick Street, with the literary Garrick Club, and right off Garrick Street, we have Rose Street with the oldest pub in London, Lamb and Flag, from 1623.

Further down St Martins Lane there is a boutique and restaurant street leading to the left, New Row.

Arriving on St Martins Lane to Trafalgar Square, we come to St Martin-in-the-Fields on our left.

St Martin-in-the-Fields

(E2).

This beautiful and Neo-Classic church was built in 1722-1726, resembling a Roman temple with the addition of a tower and a spire. This design has been very influential in America, where it lay the groundwork of the Colonial style.

Inside the church is unusually wide and bright. It has for decades been and still is a social center and a shelter for drug addicts and vagrants, providing free soups.

On the other side of the street the National Gallery overlooks Trafalgar Square.

National Gallery

2 St Martins Place, Trafalgar Square. Hours: Open 10-18, Sunday 14-18. (E2).

One of the greatest art galleries in the world, well organized, well labeled and well lit. The paintings are over 2000 and cover the whole history of art except for modern art and British art which are in Tate Gallery. This one is in the forefront in the world in scientific restoration of paintings. It is also famous for changing exhibitions around themes in the history of art.

To the left Italian paintings are in more than twenty rooms, covering the whole way back to the Renaissance. There you can see works by Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Mantegna, Michelangelo, Rafaelo, Titian and Tintoretto. To the north in the same wing are the Dutch and Flanders paintings, including Rembrandt, Vermeer, van Dyck, Rubens, van Eyck, Hieronimus Bosch and Brüghel.

The French are in the Eastern wing, among them Delacroix and the impressionists Manet, Monet, Renois and Pisarro, and the younger Degas, Cézanne and van Gogh. There also the Spanish Velasques, El Greco and Goya, and the English Hogarth, Gainsborough, Constable and Turner.

In the same block to the back the National Portrait Gallery has over 5000 paintings of famous people from the history of Britain, with recent additions of photos and cartoons.

Trafalgar Square

(E2).

The geographical center of London. Roughly speaking it has Covent Garden to the east, Soho to the north, St Jamess to the west and Westminster to the south. On the southern corner of the square there is an equestrian statue of Charles I, from where all distances and roads are measured in Britain.

We go to the middle of the square.

Nelson Monument

(E2).

On the middle of the square a statue of admiral Nelson towers on a granite column of 52 meters, surrounded by four bronze lions and thousands of living doves which a favorite with children. Above the square is the long and low facade of the National Gallery.

From the column we turn northeast into The Strand.

Strand

One of the major theater streets in London, connecting Trafalgar Square with Fleet Street.

We can continue on Strand or turn back to Trafalgar Square where there is a short walk north to the start of the next walk, at Leicester Square.

Soho

(E2).

Soho is a district of many faces, a district of cinemas and sex chops, of bookshops and Chinatown. It has the quiet Leicester Square with its greenery and the noisy Piccadilly Circus with its neon signs.

In olden times Soho was a sleazy district full of danger. Now it is relatively safe, but still somewhat vulgar.

We start our walk at Leicester Square.

Leicester Square

(E2).

A quiet garden with hospitable benches for resting tired bones. It has a statue of Charlie Chaplin in the center, probably to remind us of the many cinemas around. A very popular kiosk is selling theater tickets at reduced rates on the day of the performance.

From the northwest corner of the square we take Coventry Street to Piccadilly Square.

Piccadilly Circus

(E2).

A noisy traffic knot surrounded by noisy neon signs and shopping malls. In the middle there is a statue of Eros, one of the main landmarks of London. Visiting young people traditionally gather at the statue, some of them stoned.

Halfway on the way back Coventry Street crosses Wardour Street which leads us north into Chinatown.

Chinatown

(E2).

The area around Wardour Street has lots of good Chinese restaurants, especially in pedestrian Gerrard Street with Chinese street-lamps, leading off to the right.

We are still on Wardour Street, cross Shaftesbury Avenue and continue on Wardour Street, turn left a few steps and then to the right into Rupert Street with its continuation in Berwick Street.

Berwick Street

(E2).

These two streets are the venue of a colorful market of vegetables, fruits and flowers which has been here since 1778.

From the north end of Berwick Street we thread through side streets and peaceful Soho Square to Charing Cross Road where there is Foyle and other bookshops. The nicest street of antique bookshops is Cecil Court, leading east off Charing Cross Road, full of treasures for book lovers.

St Jamess

The classy, British and quiet district of central London, reaching from The Mall to Piccadilly, from Trafalgar Square to Green Park, centered on St Jamess Palace. This is the district of the most venerable shops from bygone centuries and most of the best known gentlemens clubs in Britain.

We start at the Trafalgar Square end of the street and work our way westward.

Pall Mall

The main street of the classy St Jamess district. When we have crossed Haymarket we see the first St Jamess club on the opposite side of the street. This is the Institute of Directors.

Then we pass Travelers Club at no. 106 and Reform at no. 104, from where Phileas Fogg was supposed to have started his journey around the world in 80 days. The big palace is the Royal Automobile Club and then comes Oxford & Cambridge Club at no. 71. Opposite it on the north side of the street there is the Army & Navy club.

The British venerable tradition of gentlemens clubs has been in decline for several years, forcing clubs to combine or to fold. A tradition of activity has replaced a tradition of inactivity. Nowadays rich people dont have time to hang out in clubs for hours on end.

At the end of the street we come to St Jamess Palace on the left side of the street.

St James‘s Palace

(D3).

The real royal palace of the British Empire, where the Queen receives foreign ambassadors. From that tradition comes the wording “to be accredited to the court of St Jamess”. Buckingham Palace is only a royal residence, not the royal palace.

In this low and strange-looking pile of a palace from Tudor times, built in 1532, the kings of England lived from 1698 when Whitehall Palace burned down, to 1837, when Buckingham Palace was preferred. From the balcony of the gatehouse of red brick with octagonal towers new monarchs are proclaimed.

A part of the royal court lives at St Jamess Palace. Connected with the palace on the west side is Clarence House, residence of the Queen Mother. On both sides to the back there are mansions, Marlborough House to the east and Lancaster House to the west, now a conference center.

In front of St Jamess Palace we turn right from Pall Mall into St Jamess Street.

St Jamess Street

(D3).

This is concentrated clubland. On the left side there is Carlton, the best known conservative club. A few steps later we find a narrow street leading to the hotels Dukes and Stafford. Still farther up, on opposite sides of the street there are the clubs Brooks at no. 61 and Boodle at no. 28. Finally near the Piccadilly crossing we have the Whites club.

We turn left into Piccadilly.

Piccadilly

(D3).

The address of quality shops dealing in luxury items.

The best known landmark in Piccadilly is the Ritz hotel on this side of the street. A little further on, Piccadilly marks the northern boundary of Green Park and reaches its end at the Hyde Park Corner.

We can walk back on the northern side of Piccadilly until we come to the next alley on the west side of Half Moon Street, leading off to the north, a short distance to Shepherd Market, marking the beginning of our next walk.

Mayfair

A district of money and elegance, built up in Georgian style, giving a unified look to much of the area. It is a district of city mansions circling around small parks, and of many of the most famous shops in London. Its best known squares are Grosvenor, Berkeley and Hanover.

The southwestern part of the district was the venue of an annual cattle fair which was closed down in 1706 and has given its name to the district.

We visited some of the shops in the eastern part of the district on our 1st walk in London. This time we shall concentrate on the western border, where the district meets the spacious Hyde Park. We start at Shepherd Market.

Shepherd Market

(D3).

Founded in 1735 to replace the former Mayfair market which had been closed down some years before. It was a food market for fish, fowl, fruit and vegetables.

Now there is a 19th C. village of passages with white, little houses, old shops, restaurants and outdoor cafés, one of the many oases of the modern city.

From the market area we walk west along Curzon Street to Park Lane where we turn right.

Park Lane

The avenue of grand hotels like Dorchester and Grosvenor House, facing the immense Hyde Park.

We walk north past the hotels all the way to Marble Arch.

Marble Arch

(C2).

Originally the entrance to Buckingham Palace but moved here due to lack of space. Here the public of London came in olden times to amuse themselves by witnessing hangings and quarterings.

From Marble Arch we go through a pedestrian subway to nearby Speakers Corner.

Speakers Corner

(C2).

In 1872 it was decided to have here freedom of speech for anybody to talk about any subject without being arrested. For a long time this was mainly a place for religious fanatics and other eccentrics, but lately there has been again an influx of serious speakers, mainly emigrants from states which do not practice free speech. Speakers Corner is liveliest on Sundays.

We now walk into Hyde Park.

Hyde Park

(C3).

The biggest open space in London, if its western end, Kensington Gardens, are included. This is a terrain of 158 hectares of grassland, majestic trees, sublime flower beds and the lake of Serpentine. This is where to relax in bucolic charm, idling in an outdoor café.

Contrary to French and Italian gardens which are strictly designed, Hyde Park is an English Garden, an informal and loosely laid out garden with freer flora.

Originally Henry VIII had the garden hedged in and made it his hunting ground. But for three centuries and a half it has been open to the public.

We arrive at the Serpentine.

Serpentine

(B3).

Created in 1730 and popular for renting rowing boats to idle on it.

We continue to the southeastern corner of the park and arrive there at Aspey House.

Aspey House

(C3).

The house between the traffic lanes is reached through pedestrian subways. Built in 1778 it later became the home of general Wellington who was victorious over Napoleon at Waterloo in 1815. It has the honor of the simple address: 1 London.

It is now a museum for Wellington.

From the house we can see the Wellington Arch.

Wellington Arch

(C3).

Erected in 1828 in honor of general Wellingtons victory over Napoleon at Waterloo in 1815.

This is the end of the walk. We are near Hyde Park Corner underground station.

Buckingham Palace

(D3).

An imitation from the 19th and 20th C. of styles from bygone ages. It has been the royal residence since Queen Victoria moved there in 1837. The palace is coated in Portland stone and matches the Victoria monument in front of it and The Mall.

The palace is now open to the public. It has some curiosity value but visits to other historical buildings in London are more interesting.

We turn our attention to the monument in front of the palace.

Queen Victoria Memorial

(D3).

A white marble statue from 1910 with a bronze statue of Queen Victoria. It dominates The Mall and the Buckingham Palace.

This is a very good viewpoint. Looking around we see Green Park to the northwest, The Mall leading northeast, St Jamess Park to the east and Buckingham Palace to the southwest.

We await the Changing of the Guards.

Changing of the Guards

The colorful ceremony occurs at 11:30 all days in summer and every other day in winter. A little before that the guards march from Wellington Barracks at Birdcage Walk to the left of the palace. We move a little along the pavement to see better. They march in step in tune with the military music.

First there is a prologue. Just before 11 we see the Horse Guards arrive at the square. They come from Knightsbridge and cross the northern part of the plaza into The Mall. This is the royal regiment in dazzling finery. It passes on its way to Horse Guards Parade at the other end of the park. This happens every weekday in summer, weekdays with even month numbers in winter.

We go directly into St Jamess Park.

St James Park

(E3).

Henry VIII had the park laid out in 1536. In the east end of the lake in the garden there is Duck Island where pelicans, swans, ducks and other birds have their nests. From the bridge over the lake there is a good view, both west to Buckingham Palace and east to the Whitehall government district.

We leave the park on the north side and enter The Mall.

The Mall

The street of pomp and pageantry in London. it leads from Trafalgar Square to the Queen Victoria Memorial in front of the Buckingham Palace. It is the traditional avenue of parades and triumph processions, lined with trees and gardens son both sides.

We end this walk by passing through Admiralty Arch and entering the Trafalgar Square. We can take a sharp turn into the Whitehall to start our next walk in London.

Westminster

Westminster is the old royal center of London, as opposite to the City center of commerce and trade. The kings moved here from Tower in the 11th C. to build their palaces there. An ensuing battle of power between City and Westminster reflected the battle of power between merchants and aristocrats.

The division continued after London had engulfed both City and Westminster. The latter is the home of government and parliament, the center of political power in the United Kingdom. The former is the home of banking and finance, the center of financial power in the United Kingdom.

We start in the southern end of Trafalgar Square and walk into Whitehall street.

Whitehall

(E3).

The name has become synonymous with the business of government carried on in the buildings around the street. In public usage the word Whitehall means the Permanent Secretaries of government and their retinue, as the word Westminster denotes the Members of Parliament and their retinue.

The street was named after an old royal palace, Whitehall. It was first owned by the archbishop of York, but Henry VIII took it from cardinal Wolsey in 1530 and made it his own royal palace. It remained so until 1698 when it burned down and St Jamess took its place.

We pass The Admiralty buildings on our right side. When we have crossed the Horseguards Avenue on our left side we arrive at Banqueting House on our left side.

Banqueting House

(E3).

The most graceful house in Whitehall, the sole survivor of Whitehall Palace, built 1619-1622 by Inigo Jones, one of the most elegant houses in London, in Palladian Renaissance style, strictly mathematically proportioned, the depth of the house half of its length. The facade is classical, conveying the image of two storeys, with Ionic pilasters downstairs and Roman ones upstairs.

But inside the house only one single room with giant baroque paintings by Rubens. It was the reception hall of the former palace and its center. Now the house is rather lonely in the crowd of bigger, younger and uglier government buildings.

Opposite Banqueting House we see the Horse Guards building.

Horse Guards

(E3).

The low building from the 18th C. is guarded by the royal cavalry in red and white. Behind the building are the parade grounds of the Horse Guards. The daily ceremonies on the parade ground commence at 11:00 weekdays and 10:00 on Sunday in summer.

We continue on Whitehall until we come to Downing Street on our right.

Downing Street

(E3).

A closed street with the residences of the Prime Minister, at no. 10, and the Minister of the Exchequer. No. 10 Downing Street has been the official residence of the Prime Minister since 1731. The government cabinet meets there in the Cabinet Room.

We continue on Whitehall to the Cenotaph monument in the middle of the street.

Cenotaph

(E3).

A slim and white memorial to British soldiers who died in the 1st World War.

We continue on Whitehall to Parliament Square.

Parliament Square

(E3).

An imposing statue of Churchill by Ivor Roberts Jones dominates the square. Other statues in the square are of Palmerston, Disraeli, Peel, Lincoln and Queen Boadicea among other dignitaries.

This is the heart of Westminster, where the kings wanted to stay at a safe distance from the unruly mobs of City.

We turn our attention to Westminster Hall.

Westminster Hall

(E3).

This is the site of the first royal palace in London, built about 1000. In front, alongside Parliament Square, are the remnants of this old palace, Westminster Hall, built by William Rufus, son of William the Conqueror, in 1097-1099.

Westminster Hall is the most important secular building from Gothic times in England. At that time it was the biggest hall in Europe. In 1397-1399 it got its present look. Royal banquets were held there in the Middle Ages. Later it housed the royal court with many famous trials and the death sentence of Charles I.

Most famous is the wide hammerbeam roof made of oak. Hammerbeam roofs were an English invention making it possible to cover wider spaces with wooden roofs than had been possible before that.

Westminster Hall is a part of the more recent Westminster Palace.

Westminster Palace

(E3).

Usually called Houses of Parliament, the palace is custom built for the parliament of the United Kingdom. It covers an enormous site, built 1840-1865 in mock Gothic style. From Parliament Square we mainly see at the northern end the slender Clock Tower with the Big Ben and at the southern end the broader and bigger Victoria Tower.

The palace has been cleaned and shows well the mild and light colors of the golden and light-brown limestone. The best view is from the Thames bridges on the other side of the palace, Westminster and Lambeth bridges, and from the opposite embankment. Seen from there the palace forms a whole, with the formal riverside facade the dominant one.

Westminster Palace houses both chambers of the parliament, the House of Commons and the House of Lords, both offices and meeting halls.

We retrace our steps to Parliament Square and have a better look at Big Ben.

Big Ben

(E3).

This is the name of the bell itself, not the tower, which is called Clock Tower. The tower and the bell are from 1858-1859. The bell weights over 13 tons and the clock mechanism weights 5 tons. The tower is one of the main landmarks of London.

The sounds from Big Ben were first broadcast on radio in 1923.

We again walk south Parliament Square and continue on Margaret Street and Old Palace Yard between the Westminster Palace and Westminster Abbey and come to the Jewel Tower on the right side of the street.

Jewel Tower

Hours: Open daily 10-18 in summer, Tuesday-Sunday 10-16 in winter. (E3).

Formerly the royal treasury. The tower was built in 1366 for that purpose. It is now a museum of palace relicts. For a while the tower was also used as the weights and measures office and a part of the exhibit is devoted to that purpose.

We go back to Parliament Square and turn left between Westminster Abbey and St Margarets Church.

St Margarets

Parliament Square, SW1. (E3).

An early 15th C. Tudor church, used for society weddings.

We turn our attention to Westminster Abbey.

Westminster Abbey

(E3).

Turning its back with the Henry VII chapel to Westminster Palace, the church is the crowning, marrying and funeral church of British sovereigns and a memorial for national heroes. As St Pauls is the cathedral of the city, Westminster Abbey is the cathedral of the state.

First the church was a part of a Benedictine monastery. Building started in 960 and its pace was quickened after 1055, initially in Norman style but after 1220 more in Gothic style. It is a French church, higher and narrower than English churches. The nave is 31 meters, the highest in England. The western towers are the youngest part, in mock Gothic from the early 18th C.

The cathedral shows well the mild colors of the stone. At the back we can see the arches and buttresses from the time of Henry VII. The north side is even more beautiful, with an immense rose window surrounded by stylish buttresses. Before we enter the church we drop into the quiet Deans yard to have a view to it from the south side.

We enter the church from the west front.

Westminster Abbey interior

(E3).

We have a stunning view along the nave. In front is the memorial of Winston Churchill and behind it the grave of the unknown soldier. Both aisles are loaded with memorials. We can enter the inner part of the church through a gate in the northern aisle.

After having inspected the northern transept we pass through the ambulatory into the chapel of Henry VII which is elaborately decorated in Gothic style, with over 100 statues.

From that chapel we walk over a bridge back to Edward the Confessors shrine and chapel behind the altar.

St Edwards Chapel

(E3).

The shrine contains the English coronation throne from 1300, where all English kings from William the Conqueror have been crowned. Under the throne is the Stone of Scone, the Scottish coronation stone from the 9th C, used at coronations of all Scottish kings, including Macbeth.

From here we go to the southern transept with memorials of many of the best known writers in the English language, the so-called Poets corner.

The southern transept has a door to the monastery which we enter to get into Chapter House.

Chapter House

Hours: Open Monday-Saturday 9:30-18:30. (E3).

A symmetrical octagonal from 1250, used in medieval times as an occasional meeting place of the parliament. The beautiful floor tiles are the original ones. The walls are decorated with medieval paintings.

And that is the end of this walk.

Museums

London is an international museum city. A few other world cities have single museums in the same class as the best London museums, but the variety of museums in London is unusually great. Some London museums are quite extensive, such as Victoria & Albert Museum with its 11 kilometers of walking.

Knightsbridge and Brompton Road are continued in Cromwell Gardens, where we start this walk in front of Victoria & Albert Museum.

Victoria & Albert Museum

Cromwell Road. Hours: Open Monday-Thursday & Saturday 10-18, Sunday 14:30-18, closed Friday. (B4).

This enormous hodge-podge is probably the biggest museum in the world. The walking distance through it measures over 11 kilometers. The exhibition rooms are 155 in number. The museum is lively and informal and concentrates mainly on applied art from all epochs and all cultures.

There is no way to explain a tour through the museum, but good maps are available at the main entrance. In half of the museum the items are categorized according to subjects, such as pottery, glass, iron and textiles. In the other half the items are exhibited according to epochs in the history of civilization.

The museum has always in store some surprises for you, even if you are a regular visitor. It is really at least a months work for enthusiasts of applied art.

From the museum we turn right into Cromwell Gardens, cross Exhibition Road and enter the Natural History Museum on the other side of the street.

Natural History Museum

Cromwell Road. Hours: Open 10-18. (B4).

A part of a great complex of great museums in South Kensington. The palace of this museum is now glittering in original colors since it has been cleaned. The delicate light brown and blue colors of the stone can be seen. It is Neo-Romanesque and looks almost like a Medieval cathedral.

The big foyer is dominated by a skeleton of a dinosaur. In the galleries to both sides there are a few millions of exhibited items out of a total collection of about 40 million items. Every year about 350,000 thousand items are added. Most popular is a modern exhibition about the body of man and the whale gallery with giant skeletons.

We go out, turn left into Cromwell Gardens and then again left into Exhibition Road. We have the Geological Museum on the left side.

Geological Museum

Exhibition Road. Hours: Open 10-18. (B4).

Behind the Natural History Museum, a fascinating collection of crystals, gemstones and ordinary stones. Most enjoyable is the ground floor with uncut and cut gemstones, such as diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds.

We go out, turn left on Exhibition Road and enter the Science Museum on the left side of the street.

Science Museum

Exhibition Road. Hours: Open 10-18, Sunday 14:30-18. (B4).

A giant museum about science and inventions. Children have fun in the electronic department, having a lot of gadgets, and in the childrens department, which also has a lot of levers and push-buttons. The most famous item is the pendulum in the lobby. By deviating from the vertical it shows how the earth rotates.

We leave the museum, turn left on Exhibition Road and walk all the way to Kensington Road which runs alongside the southern rim of Hyde Park. On the corner we turn left wand walk to Royal Albert Hall.

Royal Albert Hall

(B3).

An enormous round hall of red brick for giant assemblies, conferences, pop sessions and concerts for up to 7000 spectators.

Next on our museum itinerary is Tate Gallery on Millbank at the Thames riverside. A taxi would be convenient.

Tate Gallery

Millbank. Hours: Open 10-18. (E4).

Since it was expanded some years ago it can put on exhibit about one third of its 10,000 paintings at the same time. And there are still plans to add buildings. This is the gallery for British painting and international modern painting. It is famous for its purchasing policy, as sometimes it buys paintings before the colors have dried on the canvas.

In three big galleries in the middle there are usually changing exhibitions around certain themes such as the evolution of styles of painting. To the left the British painters are, including Hogart, Gainsborough and Turner.

To the right the modernists are, among them Monet, Pisarro, van Gogh, Gauguin, Cézanne, Degas, Picasso, Braque and Rouault; then Mondrian, Kandinski, Munch, Moore, Arp; then Chagall, Klee, Dali, Miro and Pollock; and finally at the back the youngest paintings from 1960 to the present day.

We do not forget the excellent lunch restaurant with a unique wine list in the cellar. Next we take some transport north through the West End of London into the Marylebone district where we arrive at the Wallace Collection.

Wallace Collection

Manchester Square. Hours: Open 10-17, Sunday 14-17. (C1).

One of the best