GEMSTONE SETTING

Abstract: A setting for a gemstone comprises a frame (1) defining an opening for receiving at least one gemstone (2) wherein the opening comprises a rim (4) protruding inwards around a first end of the opening so that the gemstone or gemstones (2) may be placed into the other end of the opening such that they abut the rim (4). The gemstone or gemstones (2) are held in place by a spring (3) having teeth (5) around its perimeter wherein the spring (3) is received in the first end of the opening of the frame (1) such that the teeth (5) engage the sides of the frame and the gemstone or gemstones are held between the spring (3) and the rim (4) of the frame. The setting allows the gemstones (2) to be mounted with no protruding claws and the setting does not require the bending of claws or a rim over the gemstone.

Description: GEMSTONE SETTING BACKGROUND TO THE INVENTION Gemstones are commonly used in items of jewellery such as bracelets, rings and watch straps. The gemstones may be facetted or polished to have a smooth surface and are generally mounted in a metal setting. The gemstone is generally held in a cup shaped setting, into which the gemstone is placed from the open end of the cup. It is held in place in its setting by a set of claws which are bent over the open end of the cup and the gemstone, or in a rubbed over setting a continuous metal rim around the open end of the cup is bent around the gemstone after it is placed in the setting. If a soft, ductile metal such as gold or silver is used for the setting, it is easy to bend the claws or rim around the gemstone, but this becomes more difficult if a harder or more brittle metal such as brass is used. Particularly, if the setting has been formed by die casting, the claws or rim may be too brittle to bend over the gemstone. Also, if the setting has been plated before the gemstones are added, bending of the setting may damage the plating. A further disadvantage of claw settings is that the claws protrude and may catch on the wearer's clothing. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention a setting for a gemstone comprises: a frame defining an opening for receiving at least one gemstone wherein the opening comprises a rim protruding inwards around a first end of the opening so that the gemstone or gemstones may be placed into the other end of the opening such that they abut the rim; a spring for holding the gemstone or gemstones in the frame having a plurality of teeth around its perimeter; wherein the spring is received in the first end of the opening of the frame such that the teeth engage the sides of the frame and the gemstone or gemstones are held between the spring and the rim of the frame. The setting of the present invention allows the gemstones to be mounted with no protruding claws and the setting does not require the bending of claws or a rim over the gemstone. Preferably the inside of the frame includes a groove or recess into which the teeth of the spring element engage. The teeth of the spring element bend to snap into the groove in the frame to hold the gemstone in place, but the spring element is concealed from view on the underside of the setting and therefore need not be plated. Preferably the spring element is made of metal, but it may be made from a plastics material. Preferably the teeth extend at an angle to the plane of the remainder of the spring. The teeth therefore bend inwards, the free ends bending towards one another, as the spring is pushed into position and tension the spring element to push the gemstones against the rim of the frame when the spring element is engaged in the groove. Preferably, the spring includes a hole or depression for receiving the underside of each gemstone. Holes in the spring element provide an interface with the air at the facets on the underside of the gemstone, and for a transparent gemstone will give better reflection of light from inside the gemstone hence improving the sparkle of the stone. The holes or depressions also more stably hold a gemstone which is facetted to a point or curved on its underside. According to a second aspect of the present invention, a set gemstone comprises a setting as described above and a gemstone mounted in the setting. According to a second aspect of the present invention, a link for a bracelet or watch strap comprises a setting as described above having a pivotal connection for attachment to an adjacent link. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS Preferred embodiments of the present invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawings in which: Figure 1 shows a plan view of a first embodiment of the present invention; Figure 2 shows a section of the first embodiment of the present invention; Figure 3 shows a section of the first embodiment of the present invention; Figure 4 shows a plan view of the underside of the first embodiment of the present invention; Figure 5 shows a planned view of a second embodiment of the present invention; Figure 6 shows a section of the second embodiment of the present invention; and Figure 7 shows a plan view of the underside of the second embodiment of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Figures 1 to 4 illustrate a first embodiment of the present invention. A link for a bracelet or a watch strap includes three square cut gemstones 2 which are mounted in a frame 1 having a generally rectangular opening for receiving the gemstones. Figure 1 shows a plan view of the link. Figure 2 shows a section in a direction illustrated by the arrow C and Figure 3 shows a section in a direction illustrated by the arrow D. The gemstones 2 are placed into the frame 1 so that they abut the rim 4 of the frame 1. A spring element 3 has three holes 7 for receiving the facetted points of the undersides of the gemstones 2. The spring element 3 holds the gemstones 2 in place, pressed against the rim 4 of the frame. Figure 4 shows a plan view of the underside of the link. The undulating shape of the perimeter of the spring element 3 forms teeth 5, around the edge of the spring element 3 which engage in a groove 6 around the inside of the frame 1. The teeth 5 extend at an angle to the plane of the spring element 3 in a direction away from the gemstones. This facilitates engagement of the spring element with the groove 6. To mount the stones 2 in the setting, the gemstones are positioned in the frame, and the spring element 3 is pushed into the opening from the underside of the frame. The teeth 5 flex inwards until they reach the groove 6 and spring outwards into engagement with the groove 6, holding the gemstones in position in the frame. Linking means 8 are provided at either end of the frame, so that a number of links may be connected to form a bracelet or strap. Figures 5 to 7 show a second embodiment of the present invention having a single oval shaped gemstone 2. In this embodiment, the opening in the frame for receiving the gemstone 2 and the spring element 3 for holding the gemstone in position are also oval in shape. Although the above examples illustrate a single set oval shaped stone, and three square stones in a single setting, the present invention may be employed to set a gemstone of any shape or arrangement of gemstones.

Claims: CLAIMS 1. A setting for a gemstone comprising: a frame (1) defining an opening for receiving at least one gemstone (2) wherein the opening comprises a rim (4) protruding inwards around a first end of the opening so that the gemstone or gemstones (2) may be placed into the other end of the opening such that they abut the rim (4) ; a spring (3) for holding the gemstone or gemstones (2) in the frame (1) having a plurality of teeth (5) around its perimeter; wherein the spring (3) is received in the first end of the opening of the frame such that the teeth (5) engage the sides of the frame (1) and the gemstone or gemstones (2) are held between the spring (3) and the rim (4) of the frame. 2. A setting according to claim 1 wherein the inside of the frame (1) includes a groove or recess (6) into which the teeth (5) of the spring element (3) engage. 3. A setting according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the spring element (3) is made of metal. 4. A setting according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the teeth (5) extend at an angle to the plane of the remainder of the spring (3) . 5. A setting according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the spring includes a hole or depression (7) for receiving the underside of each gemstone (2) . 6. A set gemstone comprising a setting according to any one of the preceding claims and a gemstone mounted in the setting. 7. A link for a bracelet or watch strap comprising a set gemstone according to claim 6 and having a pivotal connection for attachment to an adjacent link.

Inventors: LEE TZE HANG STEPHEN, LEE TZE HANG, STEPHEN
Applicants: LEE TZE HANG STEPHEN, RACKHAM STEPHEN NEIL, WAI TO METAL MANUFACTORY LTD, LEE TZE HANG, STEPHEN, RACKHAM, STEPHEN, NEIL, WAI TO METAL MANUFACTORY LTD.
Application year: 2000
Main classification: A44C17
IPC codes: A44C17