Cosmetic composition and methods of use

Abstract: There are disclosed cosmetic compositions and methods for protection of keratinous tissue against environmental aggressors, such as smoke, smog and UV radiation. The compositions have as an essential antioxidant: (i) hesperetin, (ii) tetrahydrocurcumin, (iii) tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin, or (iv) tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin, or mixtures of thereof. The compositions are preferably in the form of oil in water emulsions and may optionally contain one or more emulsifiers, preservatives, thickeners, sunscreens, additional antioxidants, emollients, skin protectants, hair protectants, nail protectants and the like.

Description: 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to cosmetic, particularly skin care and treatment, compositions. More particularly, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of emulsified cosmetic compositions having hesperetin as antioxidant. The antioxidants have been found highly effective in ameliorating or preventing damage to keratinous tissue, such as skin, hair and nails, caused by aggressive environmental substances, such as smoke and other atmospheric pollutants, as well as minimizing or relieving damage caused by ultraviolet radiation. 2. Description of the Prior Art Skin treatment compositions are extensively described in the art. Emulsified skin treatment compositions are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,093,109 to Mausner, which issued on March 3, 1992. This patent provides an anti-aging composition comprising water, an anti-aging agent, a sunscreen, a preservative, a thickener, an antioxidant and an emulsifier. This patent discloses only "Tenox II", a product of Eastman Chemical Products, Inc., and ascorbyl palmitate as suitable antioxidants. U.S. Patent No. 4,742,066 to Deckner et al., which issued on May 3, 1988, discloses a method for inhibiting the generation of free radicals in the skin. The method comprises applying a composition that may be in the form of an emulsion in which the free radical inhibitor may be ethoxyquin or "Trolox C". "Trolox C" is a product of Hoffmann-LaRoche. U.S. Patent No. 4,603,046 to Georgalas et al. issued on July 29, 1986. This patent discloses skin treatment compositions having enhanced ultraviolet absorbing properties in the form of oil-in-water emulsions. The essential ingredient is troxerutin and the preferred antioxidant is Tenox II, as disclosed in the Mausner patent noted above. U.S. Patent No. 4,424,234 to Anderson et al., which issued on January 3, 1984, discloses cosmetic formulations for application to the skin. The formulations have a hydroxy alkanoic acid as the essential ingredient and which may contain tocopherol, propyl gallate, ascorbyl palmitate, butylated hydroxy toluene or butylated hydroxy anisole as antioxidants. The compositions, which may be in the form of emulsions, are particularly useful for the treatment of dry skin. U.S. Patent No. 5,861,415 to Majeed et al., which issued on January 19, 1999, discloses the pharmaceutical use as a bioprotectant of a mixture of curcumin, demethoxycurcumin and bis-demethoxycurcumin derived from the herb turmeric ( Curcuma longa ) . The present invention uses the tetrahydrocurcumin derivatives as antioxidants in an emulsified skin treatment composition. The European patent application EP 0 774 249-A describes the use of hesperetin in topical compositions to decrease skin dryness and appearance of wrinkles. The Japanese patent application JP 3 005 423-A refers to the prevention of ageing phenomena resulting from an excess of oxidation of lipids in the body by a plant extract consisting of flavonoids. The U.S. Patent No. 5,972,993 relates to a method for treating skin conditions such as rosacea and sensitive skin, that manifest as a tendency towards flushing and blushing. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic use of compositions having hesperetin as antioxidant to provide benefits in connection with care of and prevention of damage to keratinous tissue. The compositions for the uses of this invention may be in the form of gels, lotions, serums, anhydrous sticks, oil based sprays, oil-in-water emulsions or water-in-oil emulsions. In particular, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of hesperetin in a cosmetically acceptable carrier for the protection of skin from adverse effects of an environmental aggressor selected from the group consisting of smoke, smog, ozone, and atmospheric pollutants. The composition for the use of the present invention may also include one or more emulsifiers, preservatives, thickeners and fragrances. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION In accordance with the present invention, there has been discovered the cosmetic use of compositions, preferably in the form of an oil in water emulsion. The term "cosmetic" includes skin care, hair care and nail care compositions. The composition has hesperetin as essential antioxidant. The composition may also include one or more emulsifiers, preservatives, and thickeners. The compositions for the use of the present invention will preferably contain at least a further antiaxiodant selected from the group of tetrahydrocurcumin, terahydrodemethoxycurcumin, and terahydrobis-demethoxycurcumin. Most preferably, each of the three further antioxidants will be present in the cosmetic composition. An even more preferred composition is the mixture of four essential antioxidants, and one or more emulsifiers, preservatives and thickeners in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The compositions for the use of the present invention offer a number of benefits in connection with care and prevention of damage to keratinous tissue. For example, the compositions are quickly absorbed, are not greasy or sticky, and are lightweight. The compositions are suitable for all skin, hair and nail types. They nourish and fortify the skin and improve the skin's appearance, especially dry or sun damaged skin. Also, the compositions provide climatic self-adjusting moisture. Importantly, the compositions provide strong defense against environmental aggressors such as smoke, smog, ozone, atmospheric pollutants, free radicals and ultraviolet radiation. Further, the compositions leave the skin smoother and less fragile. They help to prevent and temporarily protect chafed, cracked or windburned skin. When formulated in one preferred embodiment with one or more sunscreens, the compositions prevent tanning and sunburning, and reduce the risk of premature aging of the skin. Hesperetin is 4-methoxy-5,7,3-trihydroxyflavone and has the structure: Hesperetin is used in its pure form in the present compositions, but may be isolated from grapefruit. It is also found in lemons and oranges. In the present compositions, it is present in an amount about 0.01 percentage by weight (wt.%) to about 3.0 wt.%, preferably about 0.1 wt.%, of the total weight of the composition. With respect to the further antioxidants, tetrahydrocurcumin, terahydrodemethoxycurcumin and terahydrobis-demethoxycurcumin may be represented by the structure: When R 1 and R 2 are -OCH 3 , the structure represents tetrahydrocurcumin (THC). When R 1 and R 2 are, respectively, -H and -OCH 3 , the structure represents terahydrodemethoxycurcumin (THDC). When R 1 and R 2 are both -H, the structure represents tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin (THBDC). The emulsifiers may be anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, amphoteric or nonionic when the composition is prepared in the form of an oil in water or water in oil emulsion. Suitable emulsifiers include polymeric acrylate emulsifiers, polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol, sorbitan tristearate, polyethyleneglycol 40 stearate, sorbitan trioleate, glyceryl, monopalmitate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monostearate, polyethylene glycol 100 stearate, cetearyl glucoside, polyethylene glycol 20 stearyl ether (Brij 78, Steareth 20), polyethylene glycol ether of lauryl alcohol (Laureth 23), polysorbate 80 (Tween 80) or lecithin. The composition or formulation will preferably contain a mixture of two or more of these emulsifiers or others that are approved for cosmetic use. The total amount of emulsifier will vary from about 1 wt.% to about 10 wt.% of the composition, preferably about 2.5 wt.% to about 3.0 wt.%. The preservatives are any preservative suitable for use in a topically applied cosmetic product. Such preservatives include imidazolidinyl urea, ethanol, benzyl alcohol, 2-phenoxyethanol, disodium EDTA (ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid), methyl paraben, ethyl paraben or butyl paraben. The preservative will be present in amounts effective to prevent bacteria growth. Typically, these amounts range from about 1 wt.% to about 3 wt.%. Each composition should have at least one thickener to ensure that it has the proper viscosity when applied to the skin. Preferred thickeners are the carboxyvinyl polymers sold by the B.F. Goodrich Company under the trademark of Carbopol resins. Examples of such thickeners include, Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981. Other thickeners or gelling agents that may be present include, but are not limited to, stearic acid, fatty alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, magnesium aluminum silicate, polyacrylamide/isoparaffin/laureth-7 (Seppigel), hydroxyethyl cellulose, propylene glycol monostearate, hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, myristyl stearate, and cetyl stearate. The amount of thickener is in the range about 0.5 wt.% to about 2.5 wt.%, preferably about 0.6 wt.%. Besides the antioxidant, emulsifier, preservative and thickener, the composition may include water. Water will typically comprise about 55 wt.% to about 90 wt.%, preferably about 58 wt.% to about 60 wt.% of the total weight of the composition. All of the other ingredients are emulsified or dispersed into the water, when the composition is prepared in the form of a oil in water emulsion, which is preferred, except where the ingredients are water soluble. The compositions for the present uses will preferably contain one or more sunscreens or UV (ultraviolet) absorbing agents, when the composition is directed to day use. Preferably, the sunscreens will have at least one compound that absorbs in the UV-B region (wavelength 290 to 320 nanometers) and optionally one or more other compounds that absorb in the UV-A region (wavelength 320 to 400 nanometers). The total amount of UV absorbing agents included within the formulation will be about 2 wt.% to about 15 wt.%. It is preferred that the composition have about 7 wt.% to about 9 wt.% ethylhexyl-methoxycinnamate, about 3 wt.% to about 5 wt.% benzophenone-3 (oxybenzone), and about 1 wt.% to about 3 wt.% butyl methoxybenzoylmethane. Suitable sunscreens are set forth below with their preferred concentrations in weight percent: SUNSCREEN Wt.% Oxybenzone 2-10 Sulisobenzone 5-10 Dioxybenzone 1-3 Methyl Anthranilate 3-6 Para Aminobenzoic Acid(PABA) 5-15 DEA Methoxycinnamate 8-10 Octocrylene 7-10 Octyl Methoxycinnamate 2-10 Octyl Salicylate 3-5 Homomenthyl Salicylate 4-15 Octyl Dimethyl PABA 1.4-5 TEA Salicylate 5-12 Titanium Dioxide 2-25 Zinc Oxide 2-25 Butylmethoxy Dibenzoylmethane 0.1-5 Octyl Triazone 0.1-10 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid Terephthalydidene Dicamphor 1-4 Sulfonic Acid and Salts Thereof 0.1-5 Ethyl PABA 1-10 2-(2'-Hydroxy-5'-Methylphenyl) Benzotrizole 0.5-10 Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl-Tetramethylbutylphenol 1-10 Bis-Octoxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 1-10 In addition to hesperetin, the composition of the use of the present invention may preferably contain one or more additional antioxidants such as gamma oryzanol (a ferulic acid ester of cycloartenol), mixed tocopherols (a mixture of isomers of Vitamin E), ascorbyl monopalmitate, algae extract (a seaweed extract that has biomolecules of fuhalol and phloretol), tomato extract (a natural extract that contains lycopene), rosemary extract ( Rosmarinus officinalis ), or decarboxy carnosine hydrochloride(a pseudodipeptide). Most preferably, all of these additional antioxidants are present, each in amounts about 0.01 wt.% to about 1.0 wt.%. The compositions of the present invention may also contain about 3 wt.% to about 7 wt.% of a humectant. Suitable humectants include propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, sorbitol, sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate, collagen, dibutyl phthalate, gelatin, and the 10 to 20 mol ethoyxylate or propoxylate of glucose. Emollients may also be present in an amount about 3 wt.% to about 12 wt%. Suitable emollients or oleaginous materials include one or more of the following: mineral oil, petrolatum, glyceryl monooleate, myristyl alcohol, isopropyl palmitate, avocado oil, squalane, octyl palmitate, cocoa butter, sesame oil, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl dimerate (that is, the diester of isopropyl alcohol and dimer acid) and dimethicone. Preferred for use in the present compositions are petrolatum, also functioning as an occlusivity agent, C 12 -C 15 alcohol esters of benzoic acid, and dicaprylyl maleate. The present uses involve emulsions, these may be prepared using techniques well known in the emulsion art. For example, first add any water soluble ingredients to the aqueous phase, heat the aqueous phase to about 50 to about 90° C., then disperse into the aqueous phase both the emulsifiers and oleaginous components with stirring. Then, allow the composition to cool to room temperature to form a stable emulsion. The composition to be used in present invention is illustrated by the following example of a skin care and treatment composition: EXAMPLE A stable oil in water emulsion skin treatment composition was prepared composed of the following (% is by weight): Percent Ingredient 60% demineralized water 0.2% disodium EDTA 0.6% Carbopol 934 0.75% glyceryl monostearate 0.95% Steareth-2 emulsifier (propylene glycol 20 stearyl ether) 0.95% polyethylene glycol 40 stearate 0.25% stearyl alcohol 1.0% benzyl alcohol 0.2% methylparaben 0.1% hesperetin 1.0% mixture of tetrahydrocurcumin, terahydrodemethoxycurcumin and terahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin q.s. conventional antioxidants, sunscreens, humectants, emollients, odor remover, pH adjuster and masking agent 100.00% The present invention comprises a cosmetic method of protecting the skin and preventing damage from the adverse effects of environmental substances that may come into contact with the skin, such as smoke, smog, ozone and other atmospheric pollutants. The method comprises topically applying to the skin a composition as previously described. The present invention having been described with particular reference to the preferred forms thereof, it will be obvious that various changes and modifications may be made herein as defined in the appended claims.

Claims: Cosmetic use of hesperetin in a cosmetically acceptable carrier for the protection of skin from the adverse effects of an environmental aggressor selected from the group consisting of smoke, smog, ozone, and atmospheric pollutants. Use according to claim 1, wherein hesperetin is present in the composition in an amount of from 0.01 wt% to 3.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition. Use according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises at least one additional antioxidant selected from the group consisting of gamma oryzanol, mixed tocopherols, ascorbyl monopalmitate, algae extract, tomato extract, rosemary extract, decarboxy camosine hydrochloride, tetrahydrocurcumin, tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin, tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin, and any combinations thereof. Use according to claim 3, wherein the at least one additional antioxidant is selected from the group consisting of tetrahydrocurcumin, tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin and tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin, and is present in the composition in an amount of from 0.1 wt% to 5.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition. Use according to claim 4, wherein hesperetin is present in the composition in an amount of from 0.01 wt.% to 3.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition. Use according to claim 5, wherein the at least one additional antioxidant is tetrahydrocurcumin. Use according to claim 5, wherein the at least one additional antioxidant is tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin. Use according to claim 5, wherein the at least one additional antioxidant is tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin. Use according to claim 3, wherein the at least one additional antioxidant is gamma oryzanol. Use according to claim 3, wherein the at least one additional antioxidant is ascorbyl monopalmitate. Use according to claim 3, wherein the at least one additional antioxidant is mixed tocopherols. Use according to claim 3, wherein the at least one additional antioxidant is algae extract. Use according to claim 3, wherein the at least one additional antioxidant is tomato extract. Use according to claim 3, wherein the at least one additional antioxidant is rosemary extract. Use according to claim 3, wherein the at least one additional antioxidant is decarboxy camosine hydrochloride. Use according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises a sunscreen. Use according to claim 16, wherein the sunscreen is selected from the group consisting of ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate, benzophenone-3, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotrizole, bis-benzotriazolyl-tetramethylbutylphenol, bis-octoxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, terephthalydidene dicamphor sulfonic acid or salts thereof, methylene bis-benzotriazoiyl-tetramethylbutylphenol, bis-octoxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine. Use according to claim 17, wherein the sunscreen comprises ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate. Use according to claim 17, wherein the sunscreen comprises benzophenone-3. Use according to claim 1, wherein the carrier comprises at least one of an emulsifier, an emollient, a thickener, or a humectant.

Inventors: ANDERSON GLEN T, PTCHELINTSEV DMITRI, TRAUDT MICHAEL, ANDERSON, GLEN T., PTCHELINTSEV, DMITRI, TRAUDT, MICHAEL
Applicants: AVON PROD INC, AVON PRODUCTS, INC.
Application year: 2000
Main classification: A61K7
IPC codes: A61Q17, A61K8