COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING FLUORESCENT MINERALS

Abstract: The invention relates to cosmetic composition comprising a fluorescent-effective amount of at least one fluorescent mineral powder, in combination with a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, wherein the powder, when the composition is applied, does not substantially alter the color of the skin. The compositions of the invention can be used as color cosmetics and skin treatment products, to replenish the skin's natural fluorescent glow.

Description: COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINTNG FLUORESCENT MINERALS Field of the Invention The invention relates to cosmetic compositions and methods. More specifically, the invention relates to compositions and methods that replenish the skin's natural fluorescence. Background of the Invention It has long been recognized that normal skin exhibits a substantial level of fluorescence ( Fellner, Arch. Dermatol. 112: 667- 670, 1976) . The fluorescence apparently exists throughout the different layers of the skin, with the epidermis showing the weakest levels, the stratum corneum being slightly stronger, and the most intense emissions being founα in the dermis and subcutaneous fat(Zeng, et al., Photoche . Photobiol. 61: 639-645, 1995). The level of epidermal fluorescence varies deDendmg upon the color of the individual's skin, with darker skins showing a higher level of fluorescence than lighter skins. However, the fluorescence in the dermis is apparently related to elements common to all skin types: elastin and collagen. The spectra of living human skin is measurable over a wide excitation wavelengtn, with green being the dominant autofluorescence color. With particular respect to the dermis, it well-known that the elements responsible for fluorescence are susceptible to substantial alteration _r. quality and quantity due to advancing age as well as UV exposure. It s widely accented that these changes in elastin and collagen are at least partially, and probably predominantly, responsible fcr many of the external chanqes characteristic of aged skin, whether chrono- or photoageα. The external changes that are immediately _αentιfιaole as oemg associated with loss or alteration of these fibers include the readily defined features, such as lines, wrinkles, and skin atrophv; however, another common age-associated feature that s perhaps more difficult to characterize is familiar loss of luster, color and tone of mature or photodamaged skin. Interestingly, the change in structure of collagen and elastin observed at least with respect to photoagm has been shown to be correlated witn a decline m the intensity of fluorescence in the photoaged skin. (Leffell, et al. Arch. Dermatol. 124: 1514-1518, 1988). This change s also reflected in chronoaged skin, which in middle age begins to lose its green fluorescence, and in later years, loses its blue fluorescence. It is very likely that the decline in the vigorous "glow" common to voung, nealthy skin is related at least in part to the this observed loss of fluorescence. Nonetheless, cosmetics and skin care products have traditionally focused on the camouflaging cf the most easily characterized signs of aging, such as wrinkles; there has been little effort to develop products which address the seemingly more intangible problem of renewing the glow of youth in the mere mature individual's skin. The present invention now provides a solution to this problem. Summary of the Invention The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising effective amounts of at least one fluorescent mineral powder, m combination with a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. The compositions, when applied to the skin, replenish the fluorescence that may have been lost due to chrono- or photoagmg, while not necessarily providing a substantial amount of color on the skin. The invention also relates to a method of imparting a alow to the sκιn compπsina acplvina to tre skin a cosmetic composition compπsinα an effective amourt of a fluorescent ninera- powder. The compositions can also be used to reαuce the appearance of dark circles and lines on the skin, as .veil as reduce the appearance of symptoms of chronc- anα ohotoaαinα . Detailed Description of the Invention The use of fluorescent materials -. cosmetics is not unknown. There are a nu oer of reported uses cf fluorescent pigments or dyes in cosmetics, particularly in color cosmetics, principally to impart an additional dimension to the color isee, e.α., EP 3704 " ?0, JP 2060978, JP 32500^5, and EP 542669). In each of these cases, a fluorescent dye or pigment, such as D&C Orange No. 5, or ultramarine blue, typically constitutes the sole or primary colorant component of the cosmetic, and the color of the dye is visually prominent in the product. Similarly, precious σemstone powders have also been suggested for use in color cosmetic products, as disclosed in US Patent No. 4,857,306; however, no reference is made to fluorescence in the gemstones, and again, the gemstones constitute the sole or primary color of the composition. In contrast to the prior art, the present invention utilizes fluorescent mineral powders in such a way as to confer a fluorescent glow to both the composition and to the skin when applied but does not necessarily confer any visually distinct color to the skin. Fluorescent minerals are naturally occurring materials, and have tne advantage over chemical fluorescent dyes in this regard, as well as being substantially non-irritating. Also unlike many prior art uses of fluorescent dyes, the powder will not constitute a primary color component of the composition as it appears on the skin, and in certain embodiments, particularly in the case in which the mineral is used in a non-color cosmetic, it will not confer any color change to the skin that is appreciable to the naked eye. The fluorescent mineral powders can be used in a color-conferring cosmetic, and a strongly fluorescent mineral can contribute to the intensity of the primary color in such a composition; the fluorescent minerals can also be used m a non-color cosmetic, e.g., a skin care or transparent or translucent cosmetic which is intended to confer little or no color to the skin after application. The term "effective amount" as used in the specif cation and claims is that amount of any fluorescent mineral powder that will confer an observable fluorescence to the composition in which it is placed. Any fluorescent mineral may be employed in the compositions of the invention. The minerals can be conveniently grouped according to the color of the dominant fluorescence produced by the minerals, although there is some αradation in the spectrum of fluorescence, and some minerals may fluoresce differently depending on their exact composition and/or impurities contained therein. In one e -ooαiment, the mineral produces a green to bluish green fluorescence; minerals of this type include, but are not limited to, andalusite and chiastolite (aluminum silicate); amblygonite (basic lithium aluminum phosphorate); phenakite (beryllium silicate); variscite (hydrous aluminum phosphate); serpentine (basic magnesium silicate); amazonite (potassium aluminum silicate); amethyst (silicon dioxide); chrysoberyl (beryllium aluminum oxide); turquoise (copper-containing basic aluminum phosphate); colorless, yellow or pink tourmaline (borosilicate) ; amber (succinite/various resins); opal (hydrous silicon dioxide); cerussite (lead carbonate); fuchsite (potassium aluminum silicate); diopside (calcium magnesium silicate); ulexite (hydrous sodium calcium borate); aragonite (calcium carbonate); and willemite ( zinc silicate). Particularly preferred among these are the silicates, particularly those with a strong fluorescence, such as fuchsite, diopside, ulexite, aragonite and willemite. In another embodiment, the mineral emits a blue fluorescence; examples of such minerals include dumortierite (aluminum borate silicate); scheelite ( calcium tungstate); smithsonite ( zinc carbonate); danburite ( calcium boric silicate); benitoite (oarium titanium silicate); fluoπte ( fluorospar * ; and halite. Other fluorescence categories include red or orange, as represented, for example in axinite (calcium aluminum borate silicate); scapolite ( sodium calcium aluminum silicate); kyanite (aluminum silicate); sphalerite zinc sulpmtei; calcite ( calcium caroonate ); petalite ( lithium aluminum silicate); or yellow, as represented bv apatite 'basic fluoro- and chloro-calcium phosphate) or cerussite (lead carbcrate). In one preferred emoodiment, the mineral is selected from those emitting blue or green fluorescence, or coroDinations thereof, so as to directly mimic the skin's natural fluorescent color. However, in another embodiment, the mineral's fluorescent color can be any one or a combination of colors, the selection being made for the purpose cf enhancing, complementing, or counteracting a given skin tone color. The powders of the invention are prepared by standard gπndmα techniques, such as j et milling, roller milling or pulverization. The average particle size of the powders will normally be, for aesthetic reasons, no larger than about 45μ; preferably the particle size is between .5-20μ, and more preferably between about .5 and 5μ, with the harder minerals preferably being ground within the lower end of the recommended range. The amounts of the powders may be varied depending upon the intensity of the fluorescence and color of the mineral, and can be present n an amount of from about O.Olt to about 50*-, more preferably, however, the amount used will be between about 0.01- up to about 10", most preferably about 1- to about 8 » , with about 2-5- being the most commonly employed amount. It may also be desirable to treat the powders to render them more hydrophobic, as the powders normally have a high affinity for binding water. As with more traditional pigments, the powders can be coated .vith a hydrophobic coating such as metal salts of fatty acids, e.g., magnesium stearate, magnesium mvπstate, or aluminum stearate. The powders can be incorporated into any kind of vehicle that is normally used for cosmetic compositions. For example, the minerals can oe added to solutions, colloidal dispersions, emulsions (oil-in- water or water-in-oil ) , suspensions, powders, creams, lotions, gels, foams, mousses, spravs and the like. Methodology for formulation of different vehicle types is well known in the art, and can be found for example n Beminαtcn' s The Science and Practice of Pharmacy, 19tn Edition, Volume II. In ore embodiment, the mineral powders are used in a powder color cosmetic, such as a face powder, an eye shadow, a blusn. In anct er e ooαiment, the powders can be used as part of a liαuid cosmetic, sucn as a liquid foundation, eyeliner, concealer or blush. In addition, the mineral powders can be used in solid or semi-soliα gel or stick products, such as lipsticks, lip glosses, cream lipsticks, lip or eve pencils, stick foundations, concealers or stick blushes. A particularly preferred use is in a facial product, such as a foundation, concealer, or blush, the use of which will permit the most advantaσeous and recoσnizable replenishment of the skin's natural luster. In the case of the use of the mineral powders in a color cosmetic, the powder preferaoly does not constitute the sole or even the primary colorant for the product. In a color cosmetic, the powder will be typically combined with other pigments or dyes. The additional color components can be either organic or inorganic. Examples of useful inorganic pigments include iron oxides (yellow, red, brown or black), ferric ammonium ferrocyanide (blue) , manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chrome oxide (green) , talc, lecithin modified talc, zeolite, kaolin, lecithin modified kaolin, titanium dioxide (white) and mixtures thereof. Other useful pigments are pearlants such as mica, bismuth oxvchloride and treated micas, such as titanated micas and lecithin modified micas. The organic pigments incluαe natural colorants and synthetic monomeric and polymeric colorants. Exemplary are phthalocyanine blue and green pigment, diarylide yellow and orange pigments, and azo-type red and yellow pigments sucn as toluidine red, litho red, naphtnol red and brown Pigments. Also useful are lakes, which are pigments formed by the precipitation ana absorption of organic dyes on an insoluble base, such as alumina, barium, or calcium hydrates. Polymeric colorants include nylon powder, polyethylene, and polyesters. The polyesters can include linear, thermoplastic, crystalline or amorphous materials produced using one or more diols and one or mere dicarboxylic acids copolymerized with colorants. An exemplary l st of cosmetically acceptable colorants can be found in the International Cosmetic Inαred ent Dictionary and Handbook, " 'th Edition, CTFA, 199", pp. 1628-1630, the contents of whicn are incorporated herein by reference. In the color cosmetics of the present invention, colorants other than the fluorescent powαer can constitute from acout 1-99- cy weiαht of tne final product, the amount dependmα upon the intended use and the strength of color desired . In an alternate embodiment, the mineral powders are employed in a non-color cosmetic, sucn as a transparent or translucent product, or a skin treatment product. When used m a skin treatment product, the powders can be used alone as the primary component, for the purpose of evening or brightening skin tone, to disguise dark shadows, undereye circles, -.mes and wrinkles on the skin, or to counteract the effects of rosacea. Alternately, they can be used in a product combined with additional skin care treatment actives, such as those that improve or eradicate age spots, keratoses and wrinkles, analgesics, anesthetics, anti-acne agents, antibacteπals , antiyeast agents, antifungal agents, antiviral aσents, antidandruff agents, antidermatitis agents, antipruritic agents, antiemetics, antimotion sickness agents, anti-inflammatory agents, antihyperkeratolytic agents, anti-dry skin agents, antiperspirants, antipsoriatic agents, antiseborrheic agents, antiagmg agents, antiwrinkle agents, antiasthmatic agents and bronchodilators, sunscreen agents, antihistamme agents, skin lightening agents, depigmentmg agents, wound-healing agents, vitamins, corticosteroids , self-tanning aαents, or hormones. The amount of active aαent to be useα in any given formulation is readily determined r accordance with its usual dosage. In this specific application, in which color is not a focus cf the product, the mineral powders are normally used m an amount cf from aoout 0.01 to about 10 cy wei-rnt cf the product. The mode of application of the compositions of the invention will depend upon the fina-. intended use. In a color cosmetιc/maκeup product, the powder-containmα composition will normally be applied on an as-neeoed basis, as cart of tne user's daily makeup routine, particularly to the face. As a treatment product, the composition can be applied daily, .vith or witrcut makeup, simply to replenish the facial or otner s Kin's natura-. glow and to cause unadorned skin to appear nealt-ier and your.αer. It ray a so be applied to particular treble spots, sucr as αar u . -.ndereve snadcws, -.n order to bπgnten tnε r appearance. Altnouαh tee amount of product applied will also vary depending upon tne fina-. end use, and the appearance intended to ce achieved, as a guideline, to achieve an optimum glow, the product w ll normally e applied in an amount ->f about 1.1 uσ/cm to 2 mα/cnr of skin. The invention is further illustrated by the following non- Iimitmg examples. EXAMPLES Example I. This example illustrates the preparation of a non-color formulation to be used to replenish the green fluorescence of the skin. Amethyst has a greenish fluorescence. Material Weight Percent deionized water QS methyl paraben 0.01 ceteth-20 2.50 disodium EDTA 0.10 BTC(50- solution) 0.20 whey protein 0.70 amethyst powder 2.00 Vitamin E 0.10 dimethicone (lOOcs ) 1.50 cyclomethicone 4.50 polyacrylamide 3.00 The first two components are added to an emulsification vessel and heated to 75°C. EDTA and BTC are also premixed, as are dimethicone and cyclomethicone. The remaining components cf the formula are added to the vessel, and mixed until all solids are completely dissolved or dispersed. The premixed ccmponents are then added and mixed to homogeneit y .. The cclvacrylamiαe is mixed in last, and the Example II. This example illustrates the preparation of a color cosmetic, specifically a concealer, using two fluorescent minerals, diopside and calcite. Diooside fluoresces violet, yellow, orange and green, and itself provides a taupe color to the composition. Calcite flucresces red, pink and oranαe, and provides a peach color to the composition. Material Weight Percent Deionized water QS Polysorbate 85 0.50 talc 0.005 titanium dioxide 11.00 diopside 5.00 cosmetic yellow 1.00 pure oxy red 0.20 pure oxy umber 1.35 propylene glycol 12.00 xanthan gum 0.10 magnesium aluminum silicate 1.23 lecithin 1.00 .αethyl paraoen 0.30 triethanoiamme 1.50 calcite 3.00 polydecene 4.50 cacrvlic/cacπc tπαlyceriαe 3.5C propylene αlvcol stearate 3.00 steaπc ac c 3.20 cetyl ester wax 1.00 propyl paraben 0.10 butyl paraben 0.10 cetyl alccnol 0.10 stearyl alccnc-. 0.10 The first 15 items are combined toαether as the water nase, the remammα items are ccmp ned as the oil pnase. The oil pnase is added to the water chase at 25°C, and aαitation continued while cooling, to croduce an oil-m-water emulsion. The colors of tne added minerals are not ocservable i the final composition. Example III. This example illustrates the preparation of a compact foundation, using two fluorescent minerals, for the benefits cf repienishi c the skin's glow and to provide an even skm tone oy using yellow fluorescence to counteract redness. The mineral apatite fluoresces yellow (as well as purple to pink) , and fuchsite fluoresces green. The minerals are j et milled and used in the following formula: Material Weight Percent Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaorate 20.00 coco-caprylate/caprate 16.00 dimethicone/polysilicone 12.00 nylon-12 10.00 apatite 6.00 barium sulfate 2.00 mica/magnesium myπstate 6.50 titanium dioxide/maqnesium mvπstate 2.00 fuchsite/maαnesium mvπstate 8.00 yellow iron oxide/magnesium myristate 1.25 red iron oxide/magnesium myristate 0.45 black iron oxide /magnesium myristate 0.30 polyethylene 8.00 BHT 0.03 propyl paraben 0.10 butyl paraben 0.10 carnauba wax 5.27 tπbehenin 2.00 The first 12 ingredients are premixed and passed tnrough a ball mill. The polyethylene is added to the mam kettle and heated to 100-105°C; when melting is completed, premixed ingredients 1-12 are added, the temperature adηusted to 90-95°C, and mixed until uniform. The last 4 ingredients are also premixed, and then added over the phase in the main kettle, mixed in until uniform, and then cooling of the mixture is started.

Claims: What is claimed is: 1. A cosmetic composition for application to skin comprising a fluorescent-effective amount of at least one fluorescent mineral powder, in combination with a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, wherein the powder, when the composition is applied, does not constitute a primary source of color on the skin. 2. The composition of claim 1 in which the mineral shows a green or blue fluorescence. 3. The composition of claim 1 n which the mineral powder has an average particle size of no greater than about 45μ. 4. The composition of claim 3 in which the particle size is from about .5 to aoout 5μ. 5. The composition of claim 1 in wr.ic the mineral is selected from the group consisting of andalusite, chiastolite, amblygonite, phenakite, variscite, serpentine, a azonite, amethyst, chrysoberyl, turquoise, colorless tourmaline, yellow tourmaline, pink tourmaline, amber, opal, cerussite, fuchsite, diopside, ulexite, aragonite, and willemite . 6. The composition of c-aim 5 in which the mineral is selected from the group consistinα of fuchsite, αiopsiαe, ulexite, aragonite and willemite . 7. The composition of claim 1 in which the mineral is selected from the group consisting of dumortierite, scheelite, smithsonite, danbuπte, benitoite, flucπte, and halite. 8. The composition cf claim 1 in which the mineral is selected from the group consisting of axinite, scapolite, kyanite, sphalerite, calcite, petalite, apatite, and cerussite. 9. The composition of claim 1 which is a non-color cosmetic. 10. The composition of claim 1 in which the mineral oowder provides substantially no color when applied on the skin. 11. A color cosmetic composition for application to skin comprising a fluorescent-effective amount of a fluorescent mineral powder, in combination with a cosmetically acceptable vehicle and at least one colorant selected from the group consisting of inorganic pigments, natural colorants, synthetic organic monomeric colorants, synthetic organic polymeric colorants, and combinations thereof, wherein the powder, when the composition is applied, does not constitute a primary source of color on the skin. 12. The composition of claim 11 which comprises at least one inorganic pigment selectee from the group consisting of iron oxides (yellow, red, brown or black), ferric ammonium ferrocyanide (blue; , manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chrome oxide (green 1 , talc, lecithin modified talc, zeolite, kaolin, lecithin modified kaolin, titanium dioxide (white ) , and combination thereof. 13. The composition of claim 11 which comprises at least one iron oxide, titanium dioxide, or a combination thereof. 14. The composition of claim II in which the mineral is selected from the group consistinα cf andalusite, chiastolite, amblygonite, pnenakite, variscite, serpentine, amazonite, amethyst, chrysoberyl, turquoise, colorless tourmaline, yellow tourmaline, pink tourmaline, amber, opal, cerussite, fuchsite, diopside, ulexite, aragonite, and willemite . 15. The composition of claim 14 m which the mineral is selected from the group consisting of fuchsite, diopside, ulexite, aragonite and willemite. 16. The composition of claim 11 in which the mineral is selected from the group consisting of dumortierite, scheelite, smithsonite, danbuπte, benitoite, fluoπte, and halite. 17. The composition of claim 11 in which the mineral is selected from the group consisting of axinite, scapolite, kyanite, sphalerite, calcite, petalite, apatite, and cerussite. 18. The composition of claim 17 in which the powder is hydrophobically treated. 19. The composition of claim 11 which is a founαation, eye shadow, or blush. 20. A method of proviαirα a alow to the skin .vhich comprises applying to the skin a composition according to claim 1. 21. A method of providing a glow to the skin which comprises applying to the skin a composition according to claim 10. 22. A method of providing a glow to the skin which comprises applying to tne skin a composition according to claim 11. 23. A method cf reducmα the appearance of dark shadows or lines on the skin whicn comprises applymα to the skin a composition according to claim 1. 24. A method of reducing the appearance of darK shadows or lines on the skin whicn comprises applying to the skin a composition according to claim 10. 25. A method of reducmα the appearance of dark shadows or lines on the skin whicn comprises applying to the skin a composition according to claim 11. 26. A method of improving the appearance of chrono- or photoaged skin which comprises applying to the skin a composition according to claim 1. 27. A method of improving the appearance of chrono- or photoaged skin which comprises applying to the skin a composition according to claim 10. 28. A method of improving the appearance of chrono- or photoaged skin which comprises applying to the skin a composition according to claim 11. 29. A method of reducing the appearance of symptoms of rosacea on the skin which comprises applying to the skin a composition according to claim 1. 30. A method of reducing the appearance of symptoms of rosacea on the skin which comprises applying to the skin a composition according to claim 10. 31. A method of reducing the appearance of symptoms of rosacea on the skin which comprises applying to the skin a composition according to claim 11.

Inventors: BEVACQUA ANDREW J, CIOCA GHEORGHE, GEORGE LILIANA, GUBERNICK JOSEPH, BEVACQUA, ANDREW, J., CIOCA, GHEORGHE, GEORGE, LILIANA, GUBERNICK, JOSEPH
Applicants: COLOR ACCESS INC, COLOR ACCESS, INC.
Application year: 1999
Main classification: A61K7
IPC codes: A61K8, A61Q1