Cosmetic use of petroselinic acid

Abstract: Edible compositions containing petroselinic acid are used for the preparation of food compositions or food supplements that are used as anti-inflammatory compositions that inhibit the production of metabolites of arachidonic acid and/or reduces the formation of intracellular adhesion molecules or as anti-aging compositions with a positive impact on wrinkling, sagging, photodamaged skin, dry skin, flaky skin and age spots. Are also claimed fat compositions comprising petroselinic acid.

Description: Petroselinic acid is a well known compound that eg is present in coriander oil in relatively high amounts. Its use in food products is also disclosed in literature. EP 777971 eg discloses that fat compositions can be obtained from fats that have high contents of asymmetric monounsaturated fatty acids, such as petroselinic acid, ie PSA (> 79 wt%) and that have simultaneously low contents of trans acids (< 5 wt%). The fat compositions obtained can be used as fat replacer with a number of benefits such as providing good textural properties to the food, while not raising the LDL-cholesterol levels in the blood serum. When considering example 5, in particular table 3 of this patent application one must conclude that good product performance is only obtained if the fat applied contains about 12 wt% PSA. Products based on fats without PSA perform badly (=control fat 1). Fats with only small amounts PSA are still grainy, while using a fat with a high content of PSA (=fat 4 with about 64 wt% PSA via the coriander oil) has a poor overall appearance. Food products that are indicated are margarines, dressings, confections, spreads, frozen desserts, ice cream, mayonnaise, mustards, cheese, dip sauces, bread, biscuit, dairy products, frying oils, CBE's, candy, meat, egg products, nut products, vegetable or fruit products, toppings, creams, puddings, cookies, pastries, pies, crackers, cakes, bread rolls and ingredients or premixes herefore. As PSA is the active ingredient that provides the health benefits to the food product there is a big need to be able to use fats with high levels of PSA but that perform well when applied in food products. Ie the appearance of the food products should be good as well. It is also known that certain fatty acids can be used as anti-inflammatory agent, from e.g. Afifi et al "Some pharmacological activities of essential oils of certain umbelliferous fruits" Vet Med Journal Giza vol 42, No, 3 1 Jan 1994, and also Yagaloff et al "Essential fatty acids are antagonists of the Leukotriene B4 Receptor" Prostaglandins Leukotriened and Essential Fatty acids, vol 52, no. 5, 1 Jan 1995. These publications mention petroselinic acid. A well recognized consumer problem is formed by the aging of the skin. In recent years the demand for methods to improve the appearance of skin and, in particular, for reducing or preventing the visible signs of wrinkled, aged and/or photodamaged skin has grown enormously. It is known in the art that the levels of collagen, a dermal structural protein and decorin, a structuring proteoglycan in skin are significantly reduced with aged and/or photodamaged skin (Lavker et al J.Inv.Derm.1979 73:79-66, Bernstein et al Lab. Invest. 1995 72:662-669). The reduction in these proteins is associated with a decrease in the tensile strength of the skin causing wrinkles and laxity. Extensive research has focused on identifying actives that have anti-aging activity. One of the main current actives is retinoic acid, giving wrinkle effacement and dermal repair through boosting for example by collagen synthesis (e.g. Griffiths et al. N. Eng. J. med. 1993 329:530-535). According to GB 2 181 349 another solution was found in the use of triglycerides derived from long chain polyunsaturated fatty acids in cosmetic or dermatological compositions. These compositions are thus not edible in general because they also will contain non edible components. Moreover the triglycerides derived from these polyunsaturated fatty acids are unstable in particular with respect to oxygen stability We studied whether we could find a natural component that could be used as anti-aging agent without creating problems of side effects and not having the negative aspects from the known anti-aging compositions. The study on antiaging activity resulted in our finding that petroselinic acid derivatives (ie free fatty acid, short alkyl ester, short being C1-C4, wax-esters, mono-di- or triglycerides) can be applied as an anti-aging agent that act by boosting the levels of two structural proteins in the dermis of the skin, collagen and decorin. Therefore our invention concerns the use of edible compositions containing petroselinic acid for the preparation of functional food compositions or food supplements, wherein the composition containing petroselinic acid is used as an anti-aging component that boosts decorin levels with a positive impact on skin conditions selected from the group consisting of wrinkling, sagging, and age spots. Functional food compositions being defined as food compositions containing at least one component with a health benefit. Food supplements being defined as compositions that are not used as food per se, but that are used as supplement to the daily food intake, in general in the form of encapsulated essential food ingredients. These edible compositions containing petroselinic acid can be applied in many different forms, but we prefer to apply these compositions as a composition comprising 5-99.9 wt% of fat or fat blend. The fats that can be used in the compositions containing the petroselinic acid derivative can be selected from the group consisting of: cocoa butter equivalents, palm oil or fractions thereof, palm kernel oil or fractions thereof, interesterified mixtures of above fats, hardened fats or fractions thereof, liquid oils, selected from sunflower oil, high oleic sunflower oil, soybean oil, rape seed oil, cotton seed oil, safflower oil, high oleic safflower oil, maize oil, MCT oils, hardened liquid oils or fractions thereof and mixtures hereof. These fats are nearly all natural fats (the exception being MCT oils which are synthetic fats based on medium chain fatty acids ie fatty acids with 6-12 carbon atoms). The level of petroselinic acid in the compositions that we can apply for our purposes is 2-80 wt%, preferably 5-40 wt% of petroselinic acid derivative (calculated as petroselinic acid). As already indicated above we found that the petroselinic acid could be used in different forms. Very good results were obtained by using the petroselinic acid as free fatty acid, or in a form wherein it is bound to a glycerol backbone as in mono-di- or triglycerides. In this latter case the glycerides must contain at least one petroselinic acid moiety. Other forms are short alkyl esters of the petroselinic acid, short meaning having one to eight, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Also wax esters, ie long chain alcohol esters of petroselinic acid can be applied. Of course also mixtures of above forms can be used. We also found that the antiaging effect of the petroselinic acid can be increased, even in a synergistic way by using the petroselinic acid derivative in combination with one or more anti-oxidants. Typical examples of useful antioxidants can be selected from the group consisting of natural or synthetic tocopherols, natural polyphenols, in particular as present in tea extracts, BHT, BHA, free radical scavengers and enzymes with anti-oxidant properties. From these anti-oxidants we prefer the tocopherols and the polyphenols as present in tea extracts the most. EXAMPLES Methodology Procedure For Measuring Procollagen-I and Decorin Synthesis In Human Dermal Fibroblasts Preparation of Dermal Fibroblast Conditioned Medium Primary human foreskin fibroblasts at passage 2 (P2) were seeded into 12-well plates at 10000 cells/cm 2 and maintained for 24 hours in an atmosphere of 5% carbon dioxide and 4% oxygen in Dulbeccos Modified Eagles Medium (DMEM) supplemented with 10% foetal calf serum. After this time the cells were washed with serum free DMEM and then incubated in fresh serum free DMEM for a further 60 hours. The fibroblast monolayers were then washed again with serum free DMEM. Test reagents (petroselinic acid, EGCG and gallic acid) and vehicle controls were added to the cells in triplicate in a final volume of 0.4ml/well fresh serum free DMEM and incubated for a further 24 hours. This fibroblast conditioned medium was either analysed immediatedly or snap frozen in liquid nitrogen and stored at -70°C for future analysis. The cells were then counted and data from the dot-blot analysis subsequently standardised to cell number. Dot Blot Assay for Decorin Protein in Dermal Fibroblast Conditioned Medium Samples of conditioned medium from dermal fibroblasts treated with vehicle (as a control) or test reagents were supplemented with 20mM dithiothreitol (1:10 dilution of 200mM stock solution) and 0.1% sodium dodecylsulphate (1:100 dilution of 10% stock solution), mixed well and then incubated at 75°C for 2 minutes. A standard for the assay was generated by serial dilution of neat fibroblast conditioned medium from fibroblasts seeded at 10000 cells/cm 2 in a 175cm 2 flask and maintained in serum free DMEM as described above. Assay samples were subsequently applied in triplicate to a prewetted sheet of Immobilon-P transfer membrane using the 96-well Bio-Dot Apparatus from Bio-Rad as described in the manufacturers guidelines. Approximately 200µl of medium was applied per well. The medium was allowed to filter through the membrane under gravity (30 minutes) after which the membrane was washed twice with PBS (200µl). These PBS washes were allowed to filter through the membrane under gravity (2x15 minutes). The Bio-Dot apparatus was then attached to a vacuum manifold and a third and final PBS wash carried out under suction. The apparatus was disassembled, the membrane removed and quickly cut as required before being placed in blocking buffer overnight at 4°C. Membranes prepared for decorin analysis were blocked with 3% (w/v) bovine serum albumin (BSA)/ 0.1% (v/v) Tween 20 in phosphate buffered saline (PBS), whilst those for procollagen-I analysis were blocked with 5% (w/v) non fat dried milk powder/ 0.05% Tween 20 in PBS. The following day, the membranes were probed with 1:10000 dilution of primary antibodies to human decorin (rabbit polyclonal; Biogenesis) for 2 hours at room temperature. The membranes were subsequently washed with TBS/ 0.05% Tween 20 (3 x 5 minutes) and then incubated with 1:1000 dilution of 125 I-conjugated anti-rat or anti-rabbit F(ab')2 fragments (Amersham) as required for 1 hour at room temperature. Following this the Immobilon strips were again washed with TBS/Tween 20 (3 x 5 minutes) before being allowed to dry in air at room temperature. The dried membranes were wrapped in cellophane and exposed to a Molecular Dynamics storage phosphor screen for 16-18 hours. At the end of this time the exposed screen was scanned by a phosphorimager (Molecular Dynamics Phosphorimager SF) using ImageQuant™ software. Dot intensity was assessed by computer-assisted image analysis using the quantification tools in ImageQuant™, standardised to cell number and the effects of various test reagents on decorin and procollagen-I synthesis were determined relative to a vehicle treated control value of 100 arbitrary units. Examples: Anti-ageing effects - determined by measurement of decorin levels and synergy with antioxidants Petroselinic acid has been demonstrated to boost decorin levels in fibroblasts, consistent with dermal repair and antiageing activity (Table 1). Antioxidants such as ECGC, gallic acid, diadzein and genistein can also exert this effect (Table 2). In combination, a synergistic boost in decorin levels is observed (Table 3). Boosting of decorin by petroselinic acid. Petroselinic acid (µM) Decorin (% of control) 0 100.0 ± 13.6 1 137.6 ± 13.3 10 152.5 ± 14.2 The production of decorin by fibroblasts was determined in control cells (no treatment) and petroselinic acid treated cells. The data is represented mean +/- standard deviation as decorin levels as a percentage of the control (no petroselinic acid). Each data point was determined in triplicate. All petroselinic acid values were significantly increased compared to the control. Boosting of decorin by antioxidants Antioxidants Decorin (% of control) EGCG (µg / ml) 0 100.0 ± 6.4 1 167.5 ± 11.8 2.5 188.6 ± 9.4 5 258.2 ± 6.1 Gallic acid (µg / ml) 0 100.0 ± 7.0 1 136.9 ± 4.2 2.5 163.4 ± 6.5 5 161.8 ± 6.6 The production of decorin by fibroblasts was determined in control cells (no treatment) and antioxidant treated cells. The data is represented as mean +/- standard deviation for decorin levels as a percentage of the control (no antioxidant). All antioxidant values were significantly increased compared to the control. Each data point was determined in triplicate. Synergistic boosting of decorin by petroselinic acid and antioxidants Treatments Decorin (% of control) Control 100.0 ± 1.2 Petroselinic acid (0.01M) 93.7 ± 10.3 EGCG (0.005µg/ml) 118.4 ± 3.1 Petroselinic acid (0.01M) + EGCG 0.005µg/ml 140.5 ± 16.7 Control 100.0 ± 3.5 Petroselinic acid (0.01M) 91.6 ± 5.1 EGCG (0.05µg/ml) 111.7 ± 9.9 Petroselinic acid (0.01M) + EGCG 0.05µg/ml 131.2 ± 9.2 Control 100.0 ± 7.7 Petroselinic acid (0.01M) 102.7 ± 4.5 EGCG (0.5µg/ml) 120.2 ± 3.7 Petroselinic acid (0.01M) + EGCG 0.5µg/ml 155.9 ± 8.9 Control 100.0 ± 3.3 Petroselinic acid (0.01M) 100.9 ± 8.2 Gallic acid (0.001µg/ml) 96.6 ± 7.4 Petroselinic acid (0.01M) + Gallic acid 0.001µg/ml 129.2 ± 13.9 Genistein (1µm) 101.7 ± 2.3 Petroselinic Acid (0.01 µM) 117.3 ± 4.5 Genistein + Petroselinic acid 130.2 ± 9.0 0.1 µM Daidzein 115.4 ± 5.5 0.01 µM Petroselinic acid 104.3 ± 3.0 Daidzein + Petroselinic acid 130.8 ± 4.4 The production of decorin by fibroblasts was determined in control cells (no treatment) and petroselinic acid and/or antioxidant treated cells. The data is represented as mean +/- standard deviation (n=3) for decorin levels as a percentage of the control (no antioxidant). A synergistic effect in boosting decorin levels of both antioxidants and petroselinic acid was observed, compared to the control.

Claims: Cosmetic use of an edible composition containing 2-80 wt% petroselinic acid as an anti-aging component with a positive impact on skin conditions selected from the group consisting of wrinkling, sagging and age spots. Use of an edible composition containing petroselinic acid according to claim 1, wherein the petroselinic acid containing composition is used as a composition comprising 5-99.9 wt% of fat or fat blend. Use of an edible composition containing petroselinic acid according to claims 1-2, wherein fat in the compositions that are used is selected from the group consisting of: cocoa butter equivalents, palm oil or fractions thereof, palm kernel oil or fractions thereof, interesterified mixtures of above fats, hardened fats or fractions thereof, liquid oils, selected from sunflower oil, high oleic sunflower oil, soybean oil, rape seed oil, cotton seed oil, safflower oil, high oleic safflower oil, maize oil, MCT oils, hardened liquid oils or fractions thereof and mixtures hereof. Use of an edible composition containing petroselinic acid according to claims 1-3, wherein the petroselinic acid containing composition contains 5-40 wt% of petroselinic acid. Use of an edible composition containing petroselinic acid according to claims 1-4, wherein the petroselinic acid is applied in the form of free fatty acid, or in the form of mono-, di- or triglyceride with at least one petroselinic acid group, or in the form of wax esters of petroselinic acid or in the form of C1-C4 alkyl esters of petroselinic acid or as mixtures hereof. Use of an edible composition containing petroselinic acid according to claims 1-5, wherein the edible composition also contains an anti-oxidant, preferably selected from the group consisting of natural or synthetic tocopherols, natural polyphenols, in particular as present in tea extracts, BHT, BHA, free radical scavengers and enzymes with anti-oxidant properties.

Inventors: ALALUF SIMON, CAIN FREDERICK WILLIAM, GREEN MARTIN RICHARD, HU HENG-LONG, POWELL JONATHAN RICHARD, RAWLINGS ANTHONY VINCENT, ROGERS JULIA SARAH, WATKINSON ALLAN, ALALUF, SIMON, CAIN, FREDERICK, WILLIAM, GREEN, MARTIN, RICHARD, HU, HENG-LONG, POWELL, JONATHAN, RICHARD, RAWLINGS, ANTHONY, VINCENT, ROGERS, JULIA, SARAH, WATKINSON, ALLAN, Alaluf, Simon, Unilever Res. Colworth, Cain, Frederick, William, Loders Croklaan B.V., Green, Martin, Richard, Unilever Res. Colworth, Hu, Heng-Long, Unilever Res. Colworth, Powell, Jonathan, Richard, Unilever Res. Colworth, Rawlings, Anthony, Vincent, Unilever Res. Colworth, Rogers, Julia, Sarah, Unilever Res. Colworth, Watkinson, Allan, Unilever Res. Colworth
Applicants: UNILEVER NV, UNILEVER PLC, UNILEVER N.V.
Application year: 1999
Main classification: A23L1
IPC codes: A23D9, A23G3, A23D7, A23G9, A23L1, A61Q19, A61K31, A61K47, A61K8