Cleansing composition containing a ceramide as stabilizer

Abstract: An opacified cosmetic emulsion composition is provided containing an inorganic particulate substance as the opacifier, a surfactant, and a hydroxy functionalized wax to stabilize the emulsion against separation/precipitation of its components. Particularly preferred as the wax are trihydroxystearin and ceramides.

Description: BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Field of the Invention The invention relates to opacified cosmetic compositions with good foaming properties, especially a combined toner or moisturizer, and cleanser. The Related Art Aqueous cosmetic compositions often require thickeners to achieve an aesthetically pleasing viscosity. Fluids that flow with a watery consistency too rapidly run off the treated skin area. For a cosmetic to be effective, it often must have substantivity. Thickeners provide this substantivity. Furthermore, low viscosity formulas which may be skin effective nevertheless through their wateriness signal ineffectiveness to the consumer. Products of watery consistency are also aesthetically displeasing to consumers with expectations of rich and creamy products. Thickening is one but not the only concern when formulating cosmetic emulsions. Phase stability is also of paramount concern. Aqueous and oil phases must be prevented from separating. Gradual loss of viscosity often indicates progressive breakdown of an emulsion. Certain types of cosmetic ingredients are particularly sensitive to instability. Inorganic opacifying agents are one such class of ingredient. It is difficult to stabilize inorganic particulate containing emulsions when seeking systems of an aesthetically pleasing viscosity. A further very significant problem with thickened emulsions arises in the formulation of combined toner or moisturizer, and cleanser products. Emulsion stabilizing thickeners generally adversely impact upon foaming capacity. Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide an opacified cosmetic emulsion composition which is stabilized against separation. Opacified cosmetic emulsions comprising a ceramide and a surfactant are known from FR 2 716 621. Another object of the present invention is to provide an opacified stabilized cosmetic emulsion composition of satisfactory viscosity which nevertheless does not inhibit foam generation from surfactant ingredients. These and other objects of the present invention will become more readily apparent from the description and examples which follow. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION A cosmetic emulsion composition is provided as defined in claim 1. DETAILED DESCRIPTION Now it has been discovered that opacified cosmetic emulsion compositions can be stabilized against separation with hydroxy functionalized waxes. These compositions can function as combined moisturizers and cleansers. The hydroxy functionalized wax thickens and stabilizes the emulsion but has no adverse effect on foaming properties. The mica coated with titanium dioxide is commercially available under the trademark Timeron. Amounts of the opacifying inorganic pigment may range from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.1 to 2%, optimally from 0.25 to 0.75% by weight. The stabilizing agent of the present invention is a hydroxy functionalized wax. This wax has a melting point at a temperature ranging from 10° to 100°C, and is Ceramide 6 having the following structure: Amounts of the wax may range from 0.0001 to 5%, preferably from 0.01 to 2%, optimally from 0.01 to 0.2% by weight. Cosmetic compositions of the present invention may be emulsions of either the water-in-oil or oil-in-water variety, with the latter being preferred. Amounts of water may range from 5 to 99.9% by weight. Surfactants are included in the composition of this invention as foaming/cleansing agents. Total concentration of the surfactant will range from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 0.5 to 20%, optimally from 1 to 10% by weight of the total composition. The surfactant is selected from anionic actives, selected from alkyl ether sulfate and sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and sulfonates, alkyl glyceryl ethers, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, C 8 -C 20 acyl isethionates and combinations thereof. The cosmetic emulsion compositions of the present invention may contain a variety of other materials. Examples include fatty acids, humectants, preservatives, biologically active materials and other adjunct ingredients. These are described more fully below. Fatty acids having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms may be included as moisturizers in the compositions of this invention. Illustrative of this category are pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, hydroxystearic, oleic, linoleic, ricinoleic, arachidic, behenic and erucic acids. Humectants of the polyhydric alcohol-type may be included as moisturizers in the compositions of this invention. The humectant aids in increasing the effectiveness of emollients, reduces scaling, simulates removal of built-up scale and improves skin feel. Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerol (known also as glycerin), polyalkylene glycols and more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof. For best results the humectant is preferably propylene glycol. The amount of humectant may range anywhere from 0.5 to 30%, preferably between 1 and 15% by weight of the composition. Compositions of the present invention may also contain C 1 -C 20 α-hydroxycarboxylic acids and salts thereof. The salts are preferably alkalimetal, ammonium and C 1 -C 12 alkanolammonium salts. Illustrative acids are glycolic acid, lactic acid and 2-hydroxycaprylic acid. Most preferred is a combination of glycolic and 2-hydroxycaprylic acids and their ammonium salts. Levels of these materials may range from 0.01 to 15%, preferably from 0.1 to 9%, optimally between 0.5 to 7% by weight of the cosmetic composition. Preservatives can desirably be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions of this invention to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Suitable traditional preservatives for compositions of this invention are alkyl esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid. Other preservatives which have more recently come into use include hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. Cosmetic chemists are familiar with appropriate preservatives and routinely choose them to satisfy the preservative challenge test and to provide product stability. Particularly preferred preservatives are disodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea (commercially available as Germall 115®), sodium dehydroacetate and benzyl alcohol. The preservatives should be selected having regard for the use of the composition and possible incompatibilities between the preservatives and other ingredients in the emulsion. Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight of the composition. Minor adjunct ingredients may also be present in the cosmetic compositions. These ingredients include vitamins (such as Vitamin B 6 , Vitamin C, ascorbyl palmitate, Vitamin A palmitate, Vitamin E acetate, biotin, niacin and DL-panthenol), amino acids (such as glycine and serine), biohyaluronic acid (with oligosaccharides, available as Actiglide J® Special from Active Organics US) and sodium PCA. Natural vegetable materials from renewable resources are often desirable in cosmetic compositions. For instance, cosmetic compositions of the present invention may include β-glucan derived from oats, commercially available under the trademark Microat CP from Nurture Inc., Missoula, Mont. Another natural material is plant pseudocollagen commercially available from Brooks, Inc., South Plainfield, N.J. Amounts of each of the foregoing materials may range from 0.001 to 10%, preferably from 0.05 to 1%, optimally between 0.1 and 0.5% by weight. Colorants, fragrances, and abrasives may also be included in compositions of the present invention. Each of these substances may range from 0.05 to 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight. The following examples will more fully illustrate the embodiments of this invention. All parts, percentages and proportions referred to herein and in the appended claims are by weight unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES 1 -10 A series of compositions according to the present invention are listed below. They illustrate the use of trihydroxystearin in stabilizing combined moisturizer and cleanser compositions. COMPONENT 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate 10.0 10.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 6.0 ó.0 6.0 6.0 Sodium Myristyl Sarcosinate 5.0 5.0 3.4 4.0 4.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate 5.0 5.0 3.4 2.0 4.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Glycerin 7.0 7.0 6.0 6.0 -- -- -- 3.0 4.0 4.0 1,3-Butylene Glycol -- -- -- -- 8.0 8.0 8.0 3.0 4.0 4.0 Propylene Glycol 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Hydroxypropyl Methyl Cellulose 0.3 -- 0.3 0.3 -- -- -- 0.3 0.3 0.3 Myristic Acid 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 -- -- 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Stearic Acid -- -- -- -- 3.0 3.0 -- -- -- -- Phenoxyethanol/ Parabens 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Herbal Extracts and Fragance 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Coated Mica 1.0 0.45 0.35 0.35 0.05 1.5 0.4 0.3 0.3 0.8 Trihydroxystearin 0.8 0.4 0.1 0.1 0.05 1.2 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.3 Water qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs EXAMPLES 11-20 A series of compositions according to the present invention are listed below. They illustrate the use of Ceramide 6 in stabilizing combined moisturizer and cleanser compositions. COMPONENT 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate 8.0 8.0 8.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 Sodium Cocamidopropyl Betaine 3.4 3.4 4.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 -- -- -- Methyl Glucamide 3.4 3.4 4.0 -- -- -- -- -- 5.0 5.0 Sodium Alkyl Glyceryl Ether Sulfonate 2.0 2.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3 0 3.0 -- 5.0 5.0 Sorbitol -- -- -- 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 -- -- -- Glycerin 6.0 6.0 6 0 -- -- 3.0 -- 6.0 6.0 6.0 Maleated Soybean Oil -- -- -- 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 1.0 2.0 5.0 Polymer JR 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 -- -- -- -- -- -- Jaquar C-13S -- -- -- -- 0.1 0.3 0.3 -- -- -- Phenoxyethanol Parabens 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Herbal Extracts and Fragrance 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Coated Mica 0.4 0.4 0.35 0.4 0.4 1.0 0.1 0.4 0.2 0.1 Ceramide 6 0.001 0.1 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.1 0.01 0.1 0.01 0.001 Water qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs EXAMPLE 21 A series of experiments were conducted to evaluate the effect of traditional thickeners on stabilizing the emulsion as well as their effect upon foaming. For purpose of evaluation, a base cleanser/moisturizer formulation was employed whose components are listed under Table III. COMPONENT WEIGHT % Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate 8.0 Sodium Myristyl Sarcosinate 3.0 PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate 3.4 Myristic Acid 3.0 Glycerin 6.0 Propylene Glycol 0.7 Coated Mica 0.35 Water qs As can be seen from Table IV, many popular types of thickeners such as Veegum®, Methocel® and Xanthan Gum have no emulsion stabilizing characteristics. Only Ceramide 6 provided the mica containing formula with stability against separation/precipitation. Foaming properties of the Formulations D, E, F, G and H were at least identical to that of the base formula (Table III). The foregoing description and examples illustrate selected embodiments of the present invention.

Claims: A cosmetic emulsion composition with good foaming properties comprising: (i) from 0.01 to 5% of a inorganic opacifying pigment in the form of mica coated with titanium dioxide; (ii) from 0.1 to 50% of an anionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of alkyl ether sulfate and sultonates, alkyl sulfates and sulfonates, alkyl glyceryl ethers, alkyl benzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, C 8 -C 20 acyl isethionates and combinations thereof and sufficient to effect foaming; and (iii) an effective amount to stabilize the emulsion of a hydroxy functionalized wax in the form of Ceramide 6. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising a moisturizer selected from the group consisting of polyhydric alcohols, C 8 -C 30 fatty acids and mixtures thereof. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the anionic surfactant is present from 1 to 10% by weight.

Inventors: CORCORAN CATHLEEN, COREY JOSEPH MICHAEL, CORCORAN, CATHLEEN, COREY, JOSEPH MICHAEL
Applicants: FD MAN INC, FD MANAGEMENT, INC.
Application year: 1998
Main classification: A61K7
IPC codes: A61K8, A61Q19, A61Q1