PROCESS AND CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE FOR MANUFACTURING A PATTERNED PILE FABRIC AND PILE ELEMENT THEREFOR

Abstract: A patterned pile fabric with uncut and severed pile loops is manufactured on a circular knitting machine in which pile elements (1) are arranged in a cylinder (C) provided with an upper and a lower pile forming ledge divided by a holding hook. For the knitting and pile forming action the pile elements (1) are individually selected and actuated at least to two different positions in which one of the alternative pile forming ledges is arranged between the needles (N). Pile loops drawn out over the upper pile forming ledges are cleared from the pile elements in the subsequent feeder by an additional clearing movement while pile loops formed over the lower pile ledge will remain on the pile elements. Those pile loops will slide downwardly along the stems of the pile elements by the subsequent knitting. In a continuation of the lower pile forming ledge the stems of the pile elements are provided with a cutting edge (1C) that will cooperate with a cutting edge (2C) of cutting elements (2) so that all pile loops coming to this continuation section are severed by a cutting movement of the cutting elements.

Description: Description PROCESS AND CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE FOR MANUFACTURING A PATTERNED PILE FABRIC AND PILE ELEMENT THEREFOR BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a knitting process, employing a circular knitting machine and pile elements, for manufacturing a patterned pile fabric having different pile structures in which the pile loops can be either severed or remain uncut. Description of Related Art Pile fabrics in which a loop structure individu¬ ally alternates with velour, i.e. a severed pile con¬ struction, can be produced by different methods. In one of these methods, after knitting a plain loop fabric, the shearing machine used in a subsequent finishing process is equipped with a patterning device which, in part, avoids severing all of the pile loops. This method is limited by the requirements of the patterning device and by a single shearing action which reduces the reliability of this method. Therefore, prior to the present invention, it has been common to knit pile fabrics having different pile lengths and to subsequently finish the longer pile loops to a velour structure by one or more shearing actions. It is obvious that the knitting as well as the finishing or shearing processes require an extraordinarily precise adjustment in order to obtain perfect velour surfaces while at the same time leaving the shorter pile loops uncut. For knitting pile fabrics having both shorter and longer pile loops, pile elements, preferably sinkers, are provided with two different pile forming ledges and are selectively actuated between the needles by one of these ledges. Such proposals are referred to e.g. in DE-PS 656 588, U.S.-PS 3,477,255 or EP-A1-0 629 727 Al. Alternatively, forming pile loops at different lengths excludes an equalizing work step, such as stretching out, straightening and holding the pile loop during the knitting cycle of a succeeding course, at least in the succeeding feeder, for example, according to the teaching of U.S. Patent No. 4,020,653, and is today with different variations, part of modern pile knitting methods used to avoid pile and stitch deformations leading to defects such as uncut pile loops in a velour fabric. This drawback in knitting a two-level pile fabric, and the restric¬ tion in the adjustment of the shearing machine to sever exclusively longer knitted loops, inevitably results in some defects in the velour parts of such fabrics which must be accepted. In the past, numerous proposals for severing pile loops in the knitting machine have already been made as referred to in the introductory portion of EP- A2 0 082 538, which is incorporated herein by refer¬ ence. Using this proposal, and the presence of suffi¬ ciently dimensioned pile and cutting elements that cooperate in a scissor-like arrangement, results in a satisfactory reliability in the step of severing the pile loops and in acceptable intervals for replacing worn pile and cutting elements. The proposed methods for severing predetermined pile loops, as reported in DE-OS 1 585 051 and DE-OS 29 17 372, apparently have not been implemented under practical conditions. In these proposals it is pointed out that formation of uncut and severed pile loops, in the same course, is limited to a predetermined appli¬ cation of the pile elements and the adjustment of corresponding cams. Additionally, in the German patent application 1 585 051 it is noted that special fabric constructions must be knitted, for which reason the gauge of the dial is only half the gauge of the cylin¬ der. This knitting process suffers from the disadvan¬ tage that the pile loops are cleared immediately sub¬ sequent to the stitch and pile forming process, possi¬ bly resulting in stitch and loop deformations. The clearing movement for uncut pile loops, which is iden¬ tical with the severing action, is not sufficient for accurately clearing these loops when pile loops are formed by adjacent needles. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION With the foregoing in mind, it is the main object to the present invention to provide a method for knitting a pile fabric patterned by individually pre- determined severed and uncut pile loops without limi¬ tations. Another object of the invention is to achieve the possibility of knitting the pile loops which are to remain uncut at a shorter length than those which are to be severed, and to furthermore obtain a satis- factory pile and loop structure in the fabric. Starting out from the method described in DE-OS 1 585 051, the present invention relates to a method for producing a patterned pile fabric comprising severed as well as uncut pile loops in one course of stitches on a circular knitting machine which includes latch needles and pile elements arranged at a right angle between the latch needles for forming pile loops. The pile elements include two different pile forming ledges, arranged adjacent one another in the longitudinal direction of the pile element, for form¬ ing pile loops which are to be severed and pile loops which are to remain uncut and which are drawn out to different lengths, in accordance with a pattern, such that the pile thread is fed to one of the two pile forming ledges. Also, the pile forming ledge for form¬ ing the pile loops which are to remain uncut, form the termination on the head side of the pile element and the pile loops which are to remain uncut are cleared prior to the subsequent pile forming step by the pile element being retracted. According to the present in- vention it is further provided that the cutting zone is arranged at such a distance from the pile forming ledge, for forming pile loops to be severed, that the pile loops to be severed will enter the cutting zone only after at least one more course of stitches are produced, and that the selection for controlling the pile elements in pile formation is also used in con¬ trolling the pile elements with respect to their sub¬ sequent retracting motion. In order to attain such objections, recourse is thus initially had to the fundamental teaching of EP- A2 0 082 538, and the process of forming the pile loops that is separated both spatially and in time from the actual cutting process. This not only permits application of a reliable cutting technology, such as one improved in accordance with the teaching of the prior German patent application No. 195 18 490.4, but it also ensures that the pile loops to be severed are only severed once they have been consolidated in the fabric. Due to the fact that the selective control over the pile elements is also used for controlling the subsequent retracting motion of the pile elements is the pile elements can be actuated to a greater extent during pile formation, on which pile loops to be severed are formed, and to also have a higher position during the retracting motion, i.e., they are retracted for a smaller distance, resulting in the pile loop re¬ maining on the pile forming ledge. On the other hand, the pile elements that are actuated to a shorter extent, on which pile loops are formed that will remain uncut, are retracted to a lower position, such that upon each retracting motion the formed pile loop is securely cleared and the pile forming ledge in question is again available for a pile forming posi- tion in the following feeder. While the length of pile loops may thus be preselected through pile element geometry, secure mounting of the pile loops that are to be severed on the related pile forming ledge, and secure clearing of the pile loops that are to remain uncut, are ensured by the different retracting posi¬ tions of the pile elements, with the possibility of selecting the respective positions of the retracted pile elements in accordance with the formed pile loops. By the features of the present invention concern¬ ing the pile loops to be cut (Lc), as well as those pile loops that will remain uncut (Lu), are drawn out as part of the pile element retracting motion, the re- tracting movement into precisely predetermined differ¬ ent retracted positions is made use of for tensioning the pile loops and consolidating them into the stitches that become secure enough to guarantee a per¬ fect loop and stitch structure in any case. In terms of device technology, the invention starts out from a circular knitting machine, also de- scribed in DE-OS 1 585 051, for producing a patterned pile fabric comprising severed and uncut pile loops in one course of stitches. The knitting machine includes latch needles and pile elements arranged at a right angle between the latch needles for pile formation, with the pile elements comprising two different pile forming ledges, arranged adjacently in the longitudi¬ nal direction of the pile element, for forming pile loops to be severed and pile loops to remain uncut. The pile forming ledge for forming the pile loops to remain uncut forms the termination of the pile element on the head side. The knitting machine also includes a selecting mechanism for differently actuating pile elements in accordance with a pattern and also for re- tracting the pile elements. The object is attained in that the selecting mechanism is also provided for selecting the pile elements for the retracting motion, and that on the one side of the pile forming ledge intended for pile loops to be severed, located oppo- site the pile forming ledge for pile loops to remain uncut, a cutting zone follows. Tensioning or stretching of the pile loops, in order to ensure their reliable consolidation into the stitches, may be effected by both pile forming ledges being terminated at the ends on their head side by tensioning ledges or stretching ledges, respectively. In a particularly preferred manner the stretching ledge, terminating the pile forming ledge for pile loops that are to remain uncut, is arranged at an in¬ clination directed towards the head side, with respect to the longitudinal axis of the pile element, wherein the inclination angle should be in the range of 20° to 70°, and preferably 30° to 60°. Thereby, in the course of the retracting motion, tensioning of the pile loops which are to remain uncut may be effected, as well as their subsequent clearing in the area of the lowest retracting position when the pile loop leaves the ten¬ sioning ledge for being cleared, preferably while sliding over a guiding tip. It is particularly preferred that if, in contrast with the teaching of DE-OS 1 585 051, the latch needles are arranged in the dial and the pile elements are arranged in the cylinder, and that the inner back of each pile element is formed to project towards the dial in the area located opposite the pile forming ledge for pile loops that are to remain uncut while forming a retaining means for the course of stitches formed last. In this manner the pile elements may be advanced towards the dial as closely as is possible in view of reliable ground thread feeding while simul¬ taneously forming a channel sufficient for unimpeded ground thread feeding and latch closing movement underneath the projecting back of the pile elements. Owing to the lowering ledge thus formed in downward orientation and the impossibility of the fabric escap¬ ing in an upward direction, the course of stitches knitted last is securely held without additional ele¬ ments being required for this purpose. The pile elements for a circular knitting machine in accordance with the invention are active independ- ently of each other and comprise particular features in accordance with the invention. For instance, they differ from the pile element of DE-OS 1 585 051 by comprising two different pile forming ledges arranged adjacently in the longitudinal direction of the pile element, and with both pile forming ledges being terminated at their ends on the head side by tension¬ ing or stretching ledges, respectively. This ensures the stretching of pile loops to be severed and the tensioning of pile loops that are to remain uncut and thus assures their secure consolidation in the stitch. Due to the fact that the stretching ledge termi¬ nating the pile forming ledge on the head side is arranged at an inclination directed towards the head side with respect to the longitudinal axis of the pile element, with the angle being in the range of 20° to 70°, and preferably 30° to 60°, tensioning as well as clearing of the formed pile loop which is to remain uncut is ensured in the range of the lowest retracting position. Due to the fact that a projection is formed on the back of the pile element opposite the pile forming ledge on the head side, a retaining means for the course of stitches knitted last may be realized with¬ out additional expense. Precise control over the course of stitches knit last on the one hand and of the fabric, possibly including pile loops which are to be severed but not yet cut, results if the projecting back of the pile element forms a retaining and lowering ledge having an inclined arrangement with respect to the longitudinal direction of the pile element deflecting from the dial and shaping a throat on the lower end. When implementing the method of the present inven¬ tion on a circular knitting machine according to the invention, at least a portion of the pile elements are actuated with one of their pile ledges being posi- tioned between the needles prior to the stitch and pile forming process involving one ground and pile thread each. Simultaneously with the subsequent needle movement the pile loops are controlled by the pile elements. Each pile forming ledge of the pile elements stretches out the pile loops after the stitches have been cleared from the needle latches by a retracting movement. An additional retraction of those pile ele¬ ments causes those loops previously formed and which are to remain uncut to be cleared by the pile ele- ments. The pile elements previously actuated to form uncut pile loops will clear the last pile loops from the pile forming ledges by an additional movement without overstretching or deforming those pile loops knitted before and selected to be severed in one of the succeeding severing actions. Subsequent to the stretching and clearing of the pile loops, the needles are actuated to the feeding position and the pile ele¬ ments are moved to the severing position. The pile elements are provided with a sharp cutting edge which is a continuation of the pile form¬ ing ledge below a holding hook that prevents pile loops from clearing during the pile stretching action. For severing pile loops, cutting edges of the cutting elements are positioned opposite the cutting edges of the pile elements which are in permanent contact with these. Simultaneously with the severing action the selection for the subsequent course is performed and thereafter the pile elements are again actuated to their predetermined positions for pile forming in accordance with a desired pattern. Other objects, features, and characteristics of the invention will become apparent upon consideration of the following description and the appended claims with reference to the accompany drawings, all of which form a part of this specification. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS The invention shall be explained in more detail by means of an embodiment while making reference to the enclosed schematic drawings, wherein: Fig. 1 is a simplified schematic cross- section of a cut pile machine, Fig. 2 is an enlarged part of the pile element showing the pile forming and severing ledges , Fig. 3 is a diagram showing the tracks of needles pile and cutting elements in relation to each other, and Fig. 4 to 11 show the cooperation of needles, pile and cutting elements in the positions indicted by IV to XI in Fig. 3. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF A PREFERRED EMBODIMENT The cut pile machine shown in the simplified cross-sectional view of Fig. 1 is fundamentally known from the proposal made in EP-A2-0 082 538 (corresponding to U.S. 4,592,212 and JP-PS 1 457 562) which is herewith fully incorporated by way of reference for further details . The ground f bric is knit by the reciprocating movement of latch needles N arranged in a dial D, which movement is controlled by a dial cam system known per se so that further description thereof is not required for one skilled in the knitting arts. In accordance with the predeter¬ mined fabric structure one (plain fabric) or more (structured ground fabric) types of needles are used. In the present embodiment, a plain ground fabric is knit on the knitting ledge Dk of the dial D, referenced in Figs. 3 and 7, by using uniform needles. A pile yarn P is drawn out into pile loops alternatively over pile forming ledges lv or lu of pile elements 1, shown in Fig. 2, simultaneously with the stitch forming action. The pile element 1, arranged in a cylinder C, shown in Fig. 1, are individually controlled by jacks 3 designed as double- arm levers comprising upper and lower butts 3a and 3b, respectively, on each lever arm. Jacks 3 are mounted in a recessed portion of the pile element 1 and are pivoted by selectors which are actuated by mechanical or electronic means . By this arrangement or by another adequate system, the pile elements 1 must be at least forcibly controllable in their retracting movement. In their dividing position (shown in Fig. 1 in full lines) a jack 3 is pivoted with its upper butt 3a protruding from the cylinder C and with its lower butt 3b being depressed into the cylinder slot, so that alternatively one of the butts 3a or 3b can be actuated by cooperating cams depending on the position of the jack 3. Referring to Fig. 1, cams (not shown) acting on butt 3a have raised the pile element 1 shown in front of Fig. 1 with the upper pile forming ledge lu between the needles while protruding lower butts 3b, actuated by corresponding cams (not shown), will raise their respective pile elements 1 with their lower pile forming ledge lv between the needles as shown from the pile element 1 behind the needle (and from butt lb and 3b in dashed lines) . It should be noted that patterning controls corresponding to the above description are known, for example, from the documents DE-OS 23 64 138 or DE-OS 24 47 427. The pile elements 1 are controllable by a butt lb for uniform positioning including placement at a severing position. Referring to Fig. 2, each pile element 1 is pro¬ vided with an upper pile forming ledge lu and a lower pile forming ledge lv which are separated by a divid- ing hook lh having a lower tensioning ledge It and an upper dividing ledge Id. The upper pile forming ledge lu is elongated by a stretching ledge Is on an angled nib In which also has an inclined lowering and retain¬ ing ledge 11. In continuation of the pile forming ledge lv, the stem of the pile element 1 is shaped to a cutting edge lc which cooperates with an angled cutting edge 2c of cutting elements 2, as shown in Figs . 1 and 4. As shown in Fig. 1, cutting elements 2 are arranged in a sinker ring S which is attached on the cylinder or positioned externally thereof and driven synchronously with the cylinder C (like the dial). The reciprocating movement of the cutting elements 2 is performed by cams acting on the butts 2b. The preferred cutting conditions in which the cutting edges 2c cooperate with the cutting edges lc of the pile elements 1 are described with reference to Figs. 2 and 3 of the earlier referenced German patent application 195 18 490.4. This prior patent applica¬ tion is incorporated by way of reference in order to avoid repetition with respect to such details . To perform the cutting action the cutting elements 2 are arranged at an inclination creating a pressurized con¬ tact angle, in the lateral contact with the pile ele¬ ments 1. The cutting edges lc and 2c are therefore disposed opposite on the contacting flanks of their elements 1 and 2, and cutting edge 2c is also inclined with respect to the longitudinal extension of cutting edge lc thereby defining a cutting angle. Both edges lc and 2c additionally diverge in an upward direction from each other to shape an open throat and an opening angle into which pile loops slide by subsequent knitting operations. Preferably, the permanent contact of both parts between the cutting actions is obtained at least through the nib 2n of the cutting elements. The lateral pressure of the cutting element 2 against the pile element 1, required for the cutting action, produce a resilient bending contact of the cutting element 2 whereby the portion of cutting ele¬ ment 2 overlapping the pile element 1 towards to the machine, subsequent to the contact point, is deflect¬ ing from the pile element 1 laterally. This deflection is intensified due to the inclined arrangement of cutting edge 2c with respect to the cutting edge lc during the cutting action, with the point of mutual contact between the two cutting edges being disposi- tioned from below in the upward direction. Conse¬ quently, a perfect scissor-like severing of the pile loops slided on the cutting edges lc is performed by closing the previously shaped V-like throat by cutting ledge 2c. Fig. 3 illustrates the required movement of the needles, as well as the pile and cutting elements in relation with each other for knitting a complete plain pile course. The needles N pass along track NT. The track of the cutting elements is indicated at 2T, while the pile elements pass along alternative tracks IT, Pv (or Pu, Pw) , Pc and Ps depending on the pre¬ determined loop formation. The knitting cycle is per- formed from the left to the right as indicated by the arrow and essential sections marked IV to XI, are shown in Figs. 4 to 11, respectively. In Fig. 4 the cutting element 2 was moved to the innermost position. The cutting edge 2c has passed inwardly beyond the cutting edge lc to perform a perfect scissor-like cutting of those pile loops that had previously slid between them. Simultaneously to the movement of the cutting elements 2 the needles N were retracted to the feeding position for feeding a ground yard G to them. Furthermore, the pattern mecha¬ nism has rearranged the jacks 3 so that a selected portion of the cooperating pile elements 1 can be fully raised by butt 3b as in Fig. 1, in accordance with track Pv in Fig. 3, whereby their pile forming ledges lv are raising between the needles, immediately prior to the end of the retracting movement of the cutting elements. This disposition is indicated in Fig. 3 with V and shown in Fig. 5. The ground yarn G is arranged at the backs of the raised selected pile elements 1 while the other pile elements 1 remain in an idle position. After the feeding of a pile yarn P in front of the raised pile elements 1, the needles N start to retract inwardly. Simultaneously a cam acting on butt 3a (Fig. 1) raises all or selected pile elements 1 (if an additional dividing action of the pattern mechanism is provided) to an intermediate position as indicated by the track Pu and shown in Fig. 3 to engage the pile yarn P with the pile forming ledges lu as shown in Fig. 6. In Fig. 7 all the needles N are finally retracted to the cast-off position whereby a plain course of stitches is knitted. The ground yarn G is positioned by the inclined knitting ledge Dk of the dial on the inside of the needle hook, while the pile yarn P, not affected by the dial, is located in the uppermost arc position of the needle hook to perform a perfect regu¬ lar plating relationship of the ground yarn to the pile yarn. As shown in Fig. 7, the pile forming ledges lu and lv are arranged in a different space from the dial D thereby forming pile loops of different lengths. The pile loops Lu determined to remain uncut should be shorter than those to be severed in order not to be affected in a subsequent equalizing shearing process for the severed loops. A sufficient difference in the length, such as about more than 0,3 mm, of the differ- ent alternative pile loops provides an additional patterning effect. Again referring to the description of Fig. 6, and of the cam actuating selected pile elements 1 to an intermediate position for uncut pile loops, it should be noted that pattern effects resulting from alternat¬ ing severed pile loops and uncut pile loops together with plated ground fabric (without loops) are obtained by two dividing actions per feeder. In the case of only one dividing action a simple change from a pattern with the alternative pile loops to a pattern with severed (or uncut) pile loops in combination with plated ground fabric is possible by resetting the respective cams . Portions of plated ground fabric are obtained when pile elements are actuated according to track Pw in Fig. 3. Subsequent to the stitch and pile forming process, the needles N are raised outwardly from the dial. As shown in Fig. 8, all of the pile elements are simulta¬ neously arranged between respective needles N. By the frictional contact of the stitches on the raising needles the fabric is also moving from the dial out¬ wards, so that the sinker loops of the fabric, knitted from ground yarn G, will contact the downwardly inclined lowering ledge 11 on pile elements 1 so that the ' lowering ledges 11 will prevent the fabric from a further movement with the needles and will support the take down action. The disposition of the fabric will also loosen the contact of the pile loops on the pile- forming ledges . For this reason the dividing ledge Id of the dividing hook lh must be sufficiently dimen¬ sioned to control pile loops Lu to the subsequent clearing separate from the pile loops Lc which were drawn out by the pile-forming ledges lv and remain on the pile forming ledge of the pile element 1 in an as yet uncut condition, until they are disposed on the cutting edges lc . The pile elements 1 remain in this position until the needles N are completely raised and the stitches are cleared from the latches of the needles as shown in Fig. 9. As is generally known, the stitch-portions from the pile yarn may in the process be enlarged by the needle movement to such an extent that defects in the fabric may occur in the absence of precautions. Therefore, in accordance with Fig. 10, the needles N are initially only retracted after clearing slightly so that thereby the stitches are frictionally posi¬ tioned on the dial and the pile loops on the corresponding pile forming ledges . Thereafter the pile elements 1 are retracted as shown in Fig. 11 so that the pile loops Lu, drawn out by the pile-forming ledges lu, are engaged by the stretching ledges Is, respectively by the tensioning ledge It when formed over the pile-forming ledge lv, and will be stretched out so that connecting enlarged stitch portions from the pile yarn P are retracted and tightened around the needle stems . As shown in Fig. 11, tensioning of the pile loops Lu and Lc formed by the pile forming ledge lv and lu is easily performed by ledges It and Is. The pile loops Lu must, moreover, be cleared from their pile elements to remain uncut in the same movement. The general retracting movement of the pile ele¬ ments 1 is limited in order to avoid overtensioning and deformation of the previous knitted pile loops Lc whereby the perfect clearing of pile loops Lu from the pile elements is diminished. Reliable obtention of this required supposition is achieved by selective retracting movements performed by one of the butts 3a or 3b of the cooperating pattern jacks 3. For this reason the selection control of the previous pile forming process must be maintained so that the pile elements which were actuated into an intermediate position for forming uncut pile loops Lu in the knitting action (Fig. 7) will be retracted in accordance with track Pc in Fig. 3 to a lower position than the other pile elements which will pass along track Ps. The retracting movement of the pile elements 1 for clearing uncut pile loops Lu is herein restricted by the pile loops Lc of the previous course which will be severed in a succeeding cutting operation. After clearing the pile loops Lu formed by ledges lu, the needles N are then retracted inwardly to a feeding position and the stitches of the previous course are again disposed on the knitting ledge Dk of the dial. This may be supported by mechanical or pneu¬ matic means to position the cleared pile loops Lu securely behind the nibs In and on the backs of pile elements 1 when they are raised to the cutting posi¬ tion whereupon the cutting elements 2 perform their inward movement. With this movement the process according to the invention is completed and is per- formed again as described above. The described preferred embodiment can be modified in different variations particularly in accordance with the features of the selecting mechanism. Contrary to the described embodiment, after clearing the pile loops Lu (as shown in Fig. 11), the pile elements 1 may immediately be raised to the full extent, and sub¬ sequent to the cutting action, predetermined pile ele¬ ments 1 may be retracted into an intermediate position according to track Pu of Fig. 3 or additionally retracted into an idle position. This procedure creates knitting conditions comparable with those of the above described embodiment and requires only a forcible retraction of the pile elements 1 by the jacks 3. This demonstrates the large variety of odi- fications provided in implementation of the present invention. When the pile elements 1 are precisely controlled by the jacks 3 in their longitudinal movements, as de- scribed in accordance with Fig. 1, it is also possible to retract the selected and fully raised pile elements simultaneously with the knitting action, whereby the pile length of the pile loops Lc to be severed, is adjustable to the pile length of the uncut pile loops Lu. In the mentioned movement of pile elements 1 the pile yarn is positioned by ledges It to the inside of the needle hooks and performs a reverse plating of the pile yarn. This is also realized for uncut pile loops Lu with an adequate position of nibs In with their ledges Is when loops to remain uncut are drawn out. It should be understood that in addition to the preceding description, the ground fabric construction may, of course, be varied according to numerous known specifications. While the invention has been described in connec¬ tion with what are presently considered to be the most practical and preferred embodiments, it is to be understood that the invention is not to be limited to the disclosed embodiments, but on the contrary, is intended to cover various modifications and equivalent arrangements included within the spirit and scope of the appended claims.

Claims: WHAT IS CLAIMED IS: 1. Method for manufacturing a patterned pile fabric comprising severed as well as uncut pile loops in one course of stitches on a circular knitting machine which comprises latch needles (N) and pile elements (1) arranged at a right angle between said latch needles for forming pile loop's, as well as cutting elements (2) cooperating with cutting ledges (lc) of said pile elements (1) - wherein said pile elements (1) comprise two pile forming ledges (lu, lv) arranged adjacently in the longitudinal direction of said pile element for forming pile loops (Lc) to be severed and pile loops (Lu) to remain uncut in accordance with a pattern, such that the pile thread (P) is fed to one of said two pile forming ledges (lu, lv), and - wherein the pile forming ledge (lu) for forming pile loops (Lu) to remain uncut form the termi¬ nation on the head side of said pile element (1) and the pile loops (Lu) to remain uncut are cleared prior to the subsequent pile forming step by said pile element (1) being retracted characterized in that - the selected positions for controllably actuating said pile elements (1) into pile forming positions are maintained for con¬ trolling the pile elements (1) with respect to their subsequent retracting motion when the loops are cleared from the needle latches, and - said cutting ledges (lc) are arranged at such a spacing below said latch needles (N) such that said pile loops (Lc) to be severed will slide onto said cutting ledge only after at least one more course of stitches was knitted. 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that a) arranging selected ones of pattern jacks (3) for controlling the associated pile elements (1) in two different positions for the pile forming process, such pattern jacks (3) subse¬ quently remaining in this disposition con¬ currently to the raising of the needles (N) to a clearing position, b) positioning of the pile elements (1) with their downwardly inclined lowering ledge (11) between the needles (N) for engaging the fabric on the sinker loops of the previous knitted course on said lowering ledges (11) to support the take down of the fabric and to prevent a movement of the fabric with the raising needles (N) and c) retracting the pile elements (1), after clear¬ ing of the stitches from the latches of the needles (N) according to the disposition of the pattern jacks (3) separated from each other, to a tensioning position, wherein d) retracting the pile elements (1) previously raised for forming uncut pile loops (Lu) to an extent in which subsequent to the stretching out of the pile loops (Lu) said pile loops (Lu) are cleared over the nibs (In) from the pile elements (1), and e) subsequently raising the pile elements (1) into a cutting position in which at least the pile loops (Lc) of the previous course are arranged above the cooperating cutting ledges (lc, 2c) of the pile elements (1) and cutting elements (2) when said cutting elements (2) will perform a cutting movement concurrently with which the reset and re-selection of the pattern jacks (3) are carried out and the needles (N) are retracted to a feeding position for knitting the succeeding course. 3. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that selected pile elements (1) will remain in cutting position when the pile forming process is per- formed so that such pile elements (1) are excluded from pile forming. 4. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the pile loops (Lu) remaining uncut and the pile loops (Lc) determined to be severed are drawn out to different lengths. Method according to claim 4, characterized in that the pile loops (Lu) remaining uncut are drawn out to a shorter length than pile loops (Lc) deter- mined to be severed. 6. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that said pile elements (1) remain, with their pile forming ledges (lu, lv) , in the selected positions in the stitch and pile forming action of the needles so as to position the pile yarn (P) in a correct plating relationship relative to the ground yarn (G) . 7. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that said pile elements (1) are retracted according to their selected positions concurrently with the stitch and pile forming process thereby position- ing the pile yarn (P) in a reverse plating rela¬ tionship relative to the ground yarn (G) . 8. Method according to claim 7, characterized in that said pile elements (1) selected to engage the pile yarn (P) with their pile forming ledge (lv) for forming loops (Lc) to be severed are retracted concurrently with the stitch and pile forming process to an extent in which the pile loops (Lc) are drawn out by the tensioning ledge (It) of the dividing hook (lh) so that the lengths of the pile loops (Lc) to be severed and the difference in length between the pile loops (Lc) to be severed and the pile loops (Lu) remaining uncut are adjustable. 9. Circular knitting machine for producing a patterned pile fabric comprising severed as well as uncut pile loops in one course of stitches, comprising - a dial supporting reciprocatingly movable latch needles (N) for knitting a ground fabric - a cylinder in which pile elements (1) are arranged at a right angle to the needles (N) and reciprocatingly movable to and between said needles (N) , said pile elements being opera- tively connected with - associated pattern jacks (3) controlling at least the retraction of the pile elements (1) according to a selection, - a sinker ring supporting cutting elements (2) positioned at a right angle to the pile elements (1) and resiliently pressed to the flanks of said pile elements (1) below their pile forming ledge (lv) for forming pile loops (Lc) to be severed, and positioned with sufficient spacing relative to the needles (N), and - cam arrangements cooperating with the butts of the needles, pile elements (1), cutting elements (2b) and pattern jacks (3a, 3b), respectively, characterized in - that said pile elements (1) comprise two pile forming ledges (lu, lv) arranged adjacently in the longitudinal direction of said pile ele¬ ment for forming pile loops (Lc) to be severed and pile loops (Lu) to remain uncut, - that said pile forming ledge (lu) for forming the pile loops (Lu) to remain uncut forms the termination of said pile element (1) on the head side, - that said cam arrangements are also provided for selecting said pile elements (1) for the retracting motion, and - that said pile forming ledge (lv) intended for forming pile loops (Lc) to be severed is con¬ tinued at its lower side by a cutting ledge (lc). 10. Circular knitting machine according to claim 9, characterized in that both pile forming ledges (lu, lv) are terminated at the ends on their head side by stretching or tensioning ledges (Is, It). - so ¬ li. Circular knitting machine according to claim 10, characterized in that said upper pile forming ledge (lu) is extended to the peak of the pile element (1) with said stretching ledge (Is) on the front side of a nib (In) thereof, said nib (In) comprising a down¬ wardly and outwardly inclined lowering ledge (11) facing the dial. 12. Circular knitting machine according to claim 9, characterized in that said pile forming ledge (lu) for uncut pile loops (Lu) is positioned closer to the dial (D) than the pile forming ledge (lv) for pile loops (Lc) to be severed . 13. Circular knitting machine according to claim 9, characterized in that a) subsequent to the raising of the pattern jacks selectively by raising cams acting on one of the butts (3a, 3b) for arranging the associated pile elements (1) in different positions for the pile forming process, said pattern jacks (3) will remain in this disposition con- currently to the raising of the needles (N) to a clearing position, and also b) arranging all pile elements (1) by cams acting on butts (lb) between the needles so that down¬ wardly inclined lowering ledges (11) of said pile elements (1) engage the sinker loops of the previous knitted course and will prevent a movement of the fabric with the needles and additionally will support the take down, and c) retracting the pile elements (1) immediately after clearing of the stitches from the latches of the needles (N) according to their selected disposition from one of adjustable cams acting on the butts (3a or 3b) of the associated pattern jacks (3) to a stretching position, wherein d) the cam acting on the butt of such a pattern jack (3) which was raised in the previous pile forming process in the lower position for form¬ ing uncut pile loops (Lu) will retract the pattern jacks (3) and cooperating pile elements (1) to an extent in which the pile loops (Lu) determined to remain uncut are securely cleared from the pile elements (1), subsequently e) raising the pile elements (1) on their butts (lb) actuated by a cam to a cutting position in which the cutting ledges ( lc) of the pile ele¬ ments (1) are arranged opposite to the cutting ledges (2c) of cutting elements (2) in a suffi¬ cient spacing below the needles (N) such that at least the pile loops (Lc) to be severed of the previous knitted course are not positioned on the cutting ledges (lc) of the pile elements (1) so that by the severing movement of the cutting elements (2), controlled by a cam act¬ ing on butts (2b), exclusively such pile loops (Lc) are severed which were knitted previously to the last course, f) and concurrently with the cutting action per¬ forming the reset and re-selection of pattern jacks (3) and also retracting the needles (N) from the clearing position to a feeding posi¬ tion for knitting the succeeding course. 14. Circular knitting machine according to claim 9, characterized in that the cams acting on one of the butts (3a, 3b) on pattern jacks (3) will maintain the associated pile elements (1) in a constant position during the stitch and pile forming process . 15. Circular knitting machine according to claim 9, characterized in that concurrently to the stitch and pile forming process the cams acting on one of the butts (3a, 3b) on pattern jacks (3) will retract the pile elements (1) associated therewith. 16. Circular knitting machine according to claim 15, characterized in that the cam acting on one of the butts (3a, 3b) for retracting, concurrently with the stitch and pile forming process, associated pile elements selected to engage the pile yarn (P) on the pile forming ledge (lv), is adjustable. 17. Pile element (1) for a circular knitting machine according to at least one of claims 9 to 16 which comprises two pile forming ledges (lu, lv) adjacently arranged in the longitudinal direction of said pile element (1), characterized in that both pile forming ledges (lu, lv) are terminated at their ends on the head side by stretching or tensioning ledges (Is, It). 18. Pile element (1) according to claim 17, characterized in that - the lower pile forming ledge (lv) is separated from the upper pile forming ledge (lu) by a dividing hook (In), with said stretching ledge (It) formed on the lower side thereof for the tensioning of pile loops (Lc) drawn out over the lower pile forming ledge (lv) and a dividing ledge (Id) on the upper side thereof for the control of pile loops (Lu) drawn out on the upper pile forming ledge (lu) previously to clearance, and a cutting ledge (lc) is arranged on the stem of said pile element (1) in direct continuation of said lower pile forming ledge (lv). 19. Pile element (1) according to claim 18, characterized in that said upper pile forming ledge (lu) is extended to the peak of said pile element (1) with said stretching ledge (Is) on the front side of an arcuate nib (In) thereof, said nib (In) comprising a lowering ledge (11), inclined with respect to the longitudinal axis of said pile element (1), on the opposite side thereof. 20. Pile element (1) according to claim 19, characterized in that said stretching ledge (Is) on said nib (In) is arranged at an inclination towards the head side with respect to the longitudinal axis of said pile element (1) wherein the inclination angle is 20o to 70°, preferably 30° to 60°. 21. Pile element (1) according to claim 17, characterized in that said pile forming ledge (lu) for uncut pile loops (Lu) and said pile forming ledge (lv) for pile loops (Lc) to be severed are positioned in differ- ent levels in respect to the lateral direction, i.e. the direction of widthwise extension, of said pile element (1) .

Inventors: SCHMIDT WALTER RICHARD, SCHMIDT, WALTER, RICHARD
Applicants: SCHMIDT URSULA DOROTHEA, SCHMIDT WALTER RICHARD, SCHMIDT, URSULA, DOROTHEA, SCHMIDT, WALTER, RICHARD
Application year: 1997
Main classification: D04B9
IPC codes: D04B9, D04B35