COSMETIC HAIR TREATMENT METHOD

Abstract: A cosmetic method for imparting body and volume to human hair comprising increasing the diameter of the hair fibre by supplementation of the hair root with a composition comprising between 0.01 and 10 % by weight cysteine, or a derivative thereof, wherein the cysteine or derivative thereof is delivered to the hair root by topical application of the composition to the hair and/or the scalp.

Description: COSMETIC HAIR TREATMENT METHOD This invention relates to methods of cosmetic treatment of human hair to enhance the mechanical properties of the hair fibre. In particular the invention relates to the delivery of a composition comprising cysteine to the hair to supplement the hair roots and to cause the hair fibre to become thicker, so increasing hair body and volume. Cysteine is an ammo acid which has been recognised as linked with the growth of human hair For example, JP 58162511 describes an oral preparation for the growth and generation of hair which is prepared from L-cyste ne and other amino acids RO 99940 describes a lotion for combatting scurf and regenerating hair comprising a blend of cysteine and methionine with inorganic sulphates and herb extracts. DE 1617477 describes a hair tonic which is said to stimulate hair roots to produce new growth which comprises 0.3% cysteine mixed with an array of other substances including vitamins, hormones, other am o acids and salicylic acid. JP 56087514 mentions that cyst e or cysteine have attracted attention as promoters for the growth of hair but may cause problems due to lack of oxidation stability. Dithioglycollic acid is taught as a suitable replacement. Many formulations have been proposed over the years for the promotion of the growth of human hair or the curing or prevention of baldness However, there is no discussion in the prior art of an effect on the mechanical properties of the existing hair fibre as such. Increasing hair diameter leads to concomitant increases in hair bending stiffness and tensile strength For example, the former parameter can be represented as an index calculated on the basis of the 2nd moment of area of the hair's transverse section (a concept used n the engineering industry to predict the relative bending resistance of different structures) , hence the relationship to diameter. Increasing hair bending stiffness and tensile strength leads to an increase in the way the hair "stands-off" from the scalp, the property known as "root lift". Related to this is the consumer's perception of improved fullness, body and volume. The diameter of the hair has been reported by Tolgysi J.Soc.Cosm.Chem. 7. 571-578 (1976) to have a particularly strong effect on hair body. Consequently, there exists a need for substances which may be topically supplied to the human hair or scalp to increase the diameter of a thinning hair, or to maintain the fibre diameter at its maximum potential. Fratmi et al (J. Invest Dermatol 102: 178-185, 1994) have shown that the abomasal or intravenous infusion of either cysteine or methionine into sheep consuming roughage-based (i.e. nutritionally poor) diets stimulates wool growth and increased the sulphur content of the "new" wool. Cysteine infusion usually leads to an increase wool growth rate and an increase fibre diameter of 5-10% , typically l-3um. Surprisingly, we have found that the levels of cysteine in plucked human hair roots are very low or undetectable in comparison with other ammo acids, and that this deficiency is apparent irrespective of the subject's state of nutrition. We have further established, from in vitro studies using isolated human hair follicles, that the administration to the hair follicle of a composition comprising cysteine has a thickening effect on the hair fibre. It is unexpected that the mechanical properties of the normal human hair fibre would be critically dependent on supplementation with cysteine, since in the studies on sheep discussed above, the animals were initially underfed in order for the effect of cysteine or methionine supplementation to become apparent. Moreover, the cysteine or methionine was supplied to the sheep by endogenous delivery rather than exogenous application. Furthermore, the wool fibre comprises only one cuticle cell fibre layer (human hair comprises 8-10) and is designed to be shed and regenerated every year. Accordingly, the present invention provides a cosmetic method for imparting body and volume to human hair comprising increasing the diameter of the hair fibre by supplementation of the hair root with a composition comprising between 0.01 to 10% by weight cysteine or a derivative thereof, wherein the cysteine or derivative thereof is delivered to the hair root by topical application of the composition to the hair and/or the scalp. Cysteine can be incorporated into a composition for topical application to the hair and/or scalp, for imparting body and volume to human hair. A convenient source of the cysteine is a protein hydrolysate. Protein hydrolysates are a source of ammo acids m both free and peptide form. Preferably, the ammo acids are more than 50% free. The hydrolysate must have a significant cysteine content. Preferably, at least 2% of the amino acids in the hydrolysate are cysteme/cystme. The use of hydrolysates reduces the odour problems sometimes encountered with the sulphur containing ammo acids and may reduce the extent of stimulation of dandruff and other foreign organisms on the scalp or the region of the hair root. Furthermore, there appears to be benefit from use of a hydrolysate which is greater than the contribution expected, terms of hair nutrition, from the individual amino acids. It is also possible, and may sometimes be more convenient, to employ simple derivatives of cysteine, such as salts, preferably hydrosalts. A particularly preferred example of a hydrosalt is a hydrohalide, especially the hydrochloride derivative. It is further possible to employ other derivatives of cysteine including acyl, ester and peptide derivatives. These too may be used as salts or hydrosalts. Examples are derivatives of cysteine having the structure (1) : SR λ (CH,) CHNHR" COOR 3 where R 1 is chosen from: (i) H-, (ii) R 3 COO-CH(NHR 2 ) - (CH 2 ) -and, (iii) R 3 COO-CH(NHR 2 ) - (CH.) -S-; and where R : is chosen from: (i) H-, (ii) C x H y -, and (iii) C x H y CO-; (iv) amino acid residues, or substituted amino acid residues where any free -NH 2 group is modified to form a -NHCOCH y or a -NHC r H y group, and/or any free -COOH group is substituted to form a COOR 3 group, (v) peptide residues comprising from 2 to 8 am o acid residues or substituted ammo acid residues, which are substituted as defmed in (iv) above; the ammo acid residues or substituted amino acid residues, as herein defined, being derived from one or more of the following am o acids: -o-alanme L-β-alanine L- argimne L- T - ammo butyric acid L- aspartic acid L- citrulline - cysteine - cystine L- 3 , 4-dιhydroxyphenylalanme (DOPA) - glutamme L- glutamic ac d L- glycine L- hist dme - ho oserine L- hydroxylysine - hydroxyprolme - isoleucine - leucine L- lysine L- methionine L- ornithme L- phenylalanine L- proline L- senne L- threon e L- N,N,N-trimethyl glycme (betaine) L- tryptophan L- tyrosme, and - valine; and where R 3 is chosen from : (l) H * (ii) alkali metal cations chosen from Na 4 , K + and Lι + , (m) NH 4 * or alkanolammonium ions, and (iv) C-.II > -; where x is an integer of from 1 to 22 and y is an integer of from 3 to 45 Preferred examples of cysteine derivatives where the group R 2 is an ammo acid residue are the dipeptide's: L- o-alanylcysteine - β-alanylcysteine L- asparagmylcysteme L- citrul ylcysteine L- cystemylcyste e L- 3 , 4-dιhydroxyphenylalanlycysteme L- cyst ylcysteme - glutam ylcysteme L- glutamylcysteme L- methionylcysteme, and - tyrosmylcysteine Preferred examples of cysteine derivatives where the group R 2 is a peptide residue are the tripeptide' s : L- o-alanylmethionylcysteine L- methionylglutammylcysteme L- citrulmylglutamylcysteme Preferred examples of cysteine derivatives where the group R 2 is an acyl group are N-alkanoyl derivatives in which the alkanoyl moiety has an alkyl chain length of from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, e.g. N- butanoylcyste e, N-hexanoylcysteme and N-octanoylcysteine. Preferred examples of cysteine derivatives where the group R 3 is an alkyl group are those which the alkyl group is straight chain and of from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, e.g. methylcyste e, ethylcysteme and n-propylcysteme. The total amount of cysteine or cysteine derivative present the composition for use the method according to the invention is between 0.01 and 10% by weight, which upper limit is influenced by solubility considerations. Preferably the cysteine or derivative thereof is used at a level of between 0.05 and 5% by weight, most preferably between 0.1 and 0.5% by weight. The cysteine solution utilised in the formulation of compositions for use m the method of the invention is suitably of a concentration between 0.04 mMolar and 6 mMolar, preferably m. The composition for use m the method according to the invention can be formulated as a shampoo and will then accordingly comprise one or more surfactant which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair. Preferred surfactants, which may be used singularly or in combination, are selected from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Suitable anionic surfactants are the alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl lsethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccmates, N-alkoyl sarcosmates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, and alpha-olefm sulphonates, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates may contain from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccmate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl lsethionate, sodium lauroyl lsethionate and sodium N-lauryl sarcosmate. The most preferred anionic surfactants are sodium lauryl sulphate, triethanolamine monolauryl phosphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate 1 EO, 2EO and 3EO, ammonium lauryl sulphate and ammonium lauryl ether sulphate 1EO, 2EO and 3EO. Nonionic surfactants suitable for use in compositions for use in the invention may include condensation products of aliphatic (C e - C 18 ) primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups. Other suitable nonionics include mono- or di-alkyl alkanolamides . Examples include coco mono- or di- ethanolamide and coco mono-isopropanolamide. Further suitable nonionic surfactants are the alkyl polyglycosides (APG's) . Typically, the APG is one which comprises an alkyl group connected (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups. Preferred APG's are defmed by the following formula: RO - (G) n where R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group. R may represent a mean alkyl chain length of from about C 5 to about C 20 . Preferably R represents a mean alkyl chain length of from about C 8 to about C 12 . Most preferably the value of R lies between about 9.5 and about 10.5. G may be selected from C, or C f monosaccharide residues, and is preferably a glucoside. G may be selected from the group comprising glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof. Preferably G is glucose. The degree of polymerisation, n, may have a value of from about 1 to about 10 or more. Preferably, the value of n lies in the range of from about 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably the value of n lies in the range of from about 1.3 to about 1.5. Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use n the invention are commercially available and include for example those materials identified as: Oramix NS10 ex Seppic; Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000 ex Henkel . Amphotenc and zwitterionic surfactants suitable for use in compositions for use the invention may include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl beta es, alkyl amidopropyl beta es, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultames) , alkyl glyc ates, alkyl carboxyglycmates, alkyl amphopro ionateε, alkyllamphoglycmates, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultames, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, wherem the alkyl and acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms. Examples include lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betame and preferably lauryl betame, cocamidopropyl betame and sodium cocamphopropionate. The surfactant (s) may be present m compositions for use m the invention in a total amount of from about 1 to about 40% by weight, preferably from about 2 to about 30% by weight. Compositions for use in the invention may also contain one or more hair conditioning agents, as are well known in the art. Such conditioning agents may include cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, volatile or non-volatile sil cones and other materials which are known in the art as having desirable hair conditioning properties. Such compositions may optionally include a deposition polymer to aid deposition of the conditioning agent (s) onto the hair. Suitable deposition polymers include cationic guar gum derivatives, cationic polyacrylamides and cationic guar gum derivatives, cationic polyacrylamides and cationic cellulose ether derivatives. Particularly preferred are those cationic guar gum derivatives given the CTFA designation guar hydroxypropyl tπmonium chloride, available commercially for example as JAGUAR C13S. As further optional components for inclusion in compositions for use in the invention, in addition to water, may be mentioned the following conventional adjunct materials known for use m cosmetic compositions: suspending agents, thickeners, pearlescmg agents, opacifiers, salts, perfumes, buffering agents, colouring agents, emollients, moistuπsers, foam stabilisers, sunscreen materials, antimicrobial agents, preservatives, natural oils and extracts, propellants. The composition for use in the invention can be formulated as a shampoo or hair conditioner, or as a liquid or gel, or as a lotion having a viscosity of from 4,000 to 10,000 mPas, a fluid cream having a viscosity of from 10,000 to 20,000 mPas or a cream having a viscosity of from 20,000 to 100,000 mPas, or above. The composition can be packaged in a container to suit its viscosity and intended use by the consumer. For example, a shampoo, conditioner, liquid, gel, lotion or fluid cream can be packaged in a bottle or a sachet or a propellant-dπven aerosol device or a container fitted with a pump suitable for finger operation. When the composition s a cream, it can simply be stored in a non-deformable bottle or squeeze container, such as a tube or a lidded jar. The invention accordingly also provides a closed container containing a cosmet cally acceptable composition as herein defmed. The invention further provides the use of cysteine, or a derivative thereof, in a cosmetic method for imparting body and volume to human hair as above described. The compositions for use in the invention are primarily intended for topical application to the hair and/or scalp of the human subject to impart body and volume to the hair by increasing hair diameter. The amount of the composition and the frequency of application to the hair and/or scalp can vary widely, depending on personal needs, but it is suggested as an example that topical application of from 0.1 to 5g daily containing from 0.01 to 10% by weight cysteine or a derivative thereof over the period of at least six months will in most cases result in an increase m hair diameter and hence an improvement in hair body and volume. The invention will now be illustrated by the following non- limitmg Examples, in which: Figure 1 is a graph showing cumulative hair growth (mm) with time for different concentrations of cysteine; Figure 2 is a graph showing the up-take of cysteine by hair follicles as a function of cysteine concentration,- Figure 3 is a graph showing the effect of cysteine reversal on cumulative hair growth (mm) with time; Figure 4 is a graph showing the effect of cysteine concentration on the diameter (μm) of hair fibres; Figure 5 is a graph showing the ratio of m vitro to in vivo hair diameter for different concentrations of cysteine; and Figure 6 is a graph showing the influence of cysteine availability on hair fibre diameter. EXAMPLES Evaluation of Efficacy of Cvsteme using the In Vitro Hair Follicle Growth Test The effect of cysteine on hair diameter was assessed using an in vitro test which uses isolated human hair follicles in a culture medium. Example 1 Growth of Human Hair In Vitro is dependent upon the Concentration of Cvsteme m the Medium Human hair follicles were isolated from scalp skin by the methods described by Philpott et al J Cell Science 97 463- 471, 1990. Follicles isolated this way are undamaged and are capable of growth m vitro for several days at rates comparable with those described for hair growth in vivo. Follicles isolated in this way were cultured as described by Westgate et al Br. J. Dermatol 129 372-379, 1993 m a completely defmed culture medium called Williams E medium (obtainable from ICN FLOW) , the latter supplemented with antibiotics, glutamme, hydrocortisone and Insulin. In this example the concentration of cysteine + cystine (referred to as half cystine) was varied and the daily rate of growth of follicles measured. The results are shown m Table 1, and Figure 1 and demonstrates that growth increases with cysteine concentration in the medium. Example 2 Incorporation of cvsteme nto human hair in vitro is concentration dependent Follicles were isolated as described in Example 1 and cultured for 5 hours m the presence of a range of concentrations of cysteine, a small proportion of which was radiolabelled. After 5 hours the follicles were transferred to normal supplemented Williams E medium to "chase" the radioactivity into the fibre being grown m the follicle, for 48 hours. The hair fibre was isolated from each follicle using a combination of detergent and enzyme and the 'naked' fibre dissolved and subjected to liquid scintillation counting. Results are shown in Figure 2 and Table 2. Example 3 Addition of Cvsteine can increase the growth rate of human hair in vitro Human hair follicles were isolated as described in Example 1 and placed into culture in Williams E medium formulated to contain a lower concentration of cysteine. Follicles were cultured for 2 days in this medium then transferred to medium containing a higher amount of cysteine. Results are shown in Table 3 and Figure 3 and demonstrate that the follicles can respond to an increase in the concentration of cysteine in the medium by increasing their growth rate. Example 4 The diameter of human ha r fibres grown vitro is dependent on the concentration of cvsteine used m the medium Follicles were isolated as described in Example 1 and placed into culture m supplemented Williams E medium containing a range of concentrations of cysteine. Following several days of culture(7-11) , follicles were removed from the medium and the fibres isolated from the follicles as described above. The diameter of the fibres was measured using a modified Laser Scan Micrometer (Mitotoyu) coupled to a moving ig which was capable of rotating the fibre through 180° and moving the fibre through the laser beam at intervals of 0.2mm. Each isolated fibre contained a small part which was formally grown in vivo, the diameter of this "in vivo" end of the fibre. The diameter of the fibre grown in vitro was measured at intervals of 0.2mm along the fibre. For estimation of the effect of different media concentrations of cysteine on diameter, the average m vitro diameter was compared across the treatment concentrations of cysteine and the ratio of in vitro diameter to m vivo diameter was calculated. Results are shown in Table 4 and Figures 4 and 5 and demonstrate that the diameter of the fibres is dependent on the concentration of cysteine available to the follicles. Example 5 Addition of cvsteine can increase the diameter of human hair vitro Follicles were isolated as described m Example 1 and cultured as described Example 3. Fibres were isolated and diameter measured as described in Example 4. The results show that the diameter of the fibre has decreased from the m vivo diameter when placed in a lower concentration of cysteine (9.0μM) and increased again when placed in the higher concentration (495. OμM) . The change m diameter was calculated by taking, firstly the diameter at the narrowest part of the fibre for each of the three treatments and secondly the diameter of the fibre during growth after addition of cysteine - deemed to be the in vitro diameter, and taking the ratio of these to the in vivo diameter. The results are shown in Figure 6 and demonstrate that in follicles where the cysteine concentration was reversed, the fibre diameter was similarly reversed. The following examples 6 and 7 illustrate shampoos for use in washing the hair and scalp, and for increasing hair body and volume. Example 6 % w/w Sodium lauryl ether sulphate (2E0) 16 Cocoamidopropyl betaine 2 Silicone 1 1.0 Jaguar C13S 0.1 L-Cysteme 0.2 Perfume, colour, reservative q.s. Water to 100 (1) 15,000 cS dimethiconol, added as microemulsion ex Dow Corning Example 7 % w/w Sodium lauryl ether sulphate (3EO) 8 Cocoamidopropylbetaine 4 POLYMER JR400 0.3 -Cysteine hydrochloride 0.5 Silicone 2 5.0 Carbopol 980 3 0.4 Perfume, colour, preservative q.s. Water to 100 (2) is a 60% silicone emulsion polymer, mol wt 300,000 (3) is a copolymer of a carboxylic acid containing monomer and acrylic esters ex Goodrich.

Claims: CLAIMS 1. A cosmetic method for imparting body and volume to human hair comprising increasing the diameter of the hair fibre by supplementation of the hair root with a composition comprising between 0.01 and 10% by weight cysteine, or a derivative thereof, wherein the cysteine or derivative thereof is delivered to the hair root by topical application of the composition to the hair and/or the scalp. 2. A method according to claim 1 in which the cysteine is used at a level of between 0.1 and 0.5% by weight of the composition. 3. A method according to any preceding claim in which the source of the cysteine is a protein hydrolysate. 4. A method according to any preceding claim in which the cysteine is delivered to the hair or scalp from a liquid base. 5. A method according to any preceding claim in which the composition is applied to the hair in a vehicle which contains a preservative and which is suitable to remain in contact with the hair and scalp for several hours. 6. A method according to any preceding claim in which the composition is in the form of a lotion that may be applied and left on overnight. 7. A method according to any preceding claim in which the vehicle is a liquid, gel or paste and includes shampoos, conditioners, hair sprays, styling gels and lotions. 8. The use of cysteine, or a derivative thereof, in a cosmetic method for imparting body and volume to human hair according to any one of claims 1 to 6.

Inventors: GIBSON WALTER THOMAS, PARMAR PREYESH, RICHES CAROLINE, WESTGATE GILLIAN ELIZABETH, GIBSON, WALTER, THOMAS, PARMAR, PREYESH, RICHES, CAROLINE, WESTGATE, GILLIAN, ELIZABETH
Applicants: UNILEVER NV, UNILEVER PLC, UNILEVER N.V.
Application year: 1996
Main classification: A61K7
IPC codes: A61K8, A61Q5