Improved last

Abstract: The last for making boots and shoes comprises a main body portion (1) and a detachable toe portion (2). The two are held together during lasting by means of a peg (3) engaging in a hole (4) in the toe portion. When the last is to be removed from the shoe, only the main body portion (1) is removed, the toe portion (2) remaining in place. This enables shoes of complex toe shapes to be made.

Description: The present invention relates to lasts, and in particular to a last having a detachable toe-end portion. The invention also relates to a method of making footwear using a last of this type. It is known to manufacture shoes (which term includes all items of footwear made on a last) by shaping the leather or other material around a last. In the case of narrow toed shoes, the last must come almost to a point at the toe-end. Such lasts are easily damaged and may soon need re-modelling. This is expensive and inconvenient. Since the last must be removed from the finished shoe, the overall shape of the last must be such that removal is not made impossible or difficult. For example, the toe piece must not project from the last in an outstanding manner. It is an object of the invention to provide a last which overcomes the above disadvantages. It is known to provide lasts having detachable toe portions. Examples are illustrated in GB-A-969603 and DE-A-1176520. In both of these examples the join between the toe portion and the main body portion is in the region of the ball of the foot. In GB-A-969603 it is proposed to provide lasts for shoes of different width fittings using the same last main body portion and in DE-A-1176520, it is proposed to provide a variety of different toe shapes, attachable to the same main body portion. It is also known to provide lasts having hinged toe portions, and an example is shown in US 3187358. The problem remains that the foreparts of such lasts, whether detachable or not, tend to become damaged after prolonged use. This problem could be overcome to some extent by an arrangement described in CH-A-387487 in which it is proposed to provide a last with an extension spike for use in manufacturing pointed shoes, which remains in the finished shoe. During manufacture, the spike is butted up to the end of the last, after the inside and lining have been placed over the last, and then the shoe outer is constructed. A further problem with all of the aforementioned lasts is the accurate positioning of the insole so that it is correctly aligned in the finished shoe. The present invention is based on the realisation that this further problem can be overcome by securing the insole to a detachable toe portion of the last which will remain in the finished shoe. A first aspect of the present invention provides a method of manufacturing footwear using a last comprising a main body portion and a toe portion which is detachably connected to the main body portion, the method comprising assembling the last by connecting the toe portion and the main body portion, building the footwear around the assembled last and removing the main body portion of the last leaving the toe portion in the finished footwear; characterised in that a recess is provided in the toe portion and a forward portion of the insole of the footwear is inserted in the recess. The present invention also provides a last comprising a main body portion, a toe portion, and means for detachably connecting said body and toe portions; the body and toe portions being detachable in such a manner that the main body portion may be withdrawn from the lasted footwear while the toe portion remains in place in the finished footwear; characterised in that the toe portion has a recess for insertion of a forward portion of an insole. The provision of an aperture in the toe portion allows very accurate location of the insole on the last. Instead of the insole being inserted in a recess in the toe portion, the toe portion may have an integral insole portion. In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the toe portion has an upper surface at an area of connection of the toe and main body portions, extending above an upper surface of an adjacent part of the main body portion. In an alternative arrangement, exclusively for use in shoes of welted construction, the toe portion is provided with an integrally moulded rib to match that on a ribbed insole, the insole extending over the body portion of the last and having a front extension portion to locate within an aperture of the toe portion. Embodiments of the invention will now be more particularly described by way of example and with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which: Figure 1 is a schematic side view of part of an insole, a last and a toe piece embodying the invention, shown in separated condition; Figure 2 is a perspective view of the toe piece of the last illustrated in Figure 1; Figure 2a is a perspective view of an alternative, preferred embodiment of toe piece; Figure 3 is a schematic side elevation of part of an insole, a last and a toe piece, for use in welted footwear; Figure 4 is a perspective view of a toe piece of the last illustrated in Figure 3; Figure 5 is a schematic side elevation of part of an insole, last and toe piece for use in welted footwear; and Figure 6 is a perspective view of the toe piece of the last illustrated in Figure 5. Referring now to the drawings, there is shown a main last body portion 1, and a toe portion 2. The portions are detachably connected by means of peg 3 on the body portion 1 engaging into blind hole 4 in the toe portion 2. The shoe is built around the assembled last, and then only the main body portion 1 is removed. The toe portion 2 remains in place. If so desired it may be coated with adhesive so that it adheres to the upper, although this may not be strictly necessary. In the embodiments shown in Figures 1 to 4 the toe portion 2 is provided with a shaped recess 5 positioned below the blind hole 4 to accommodate a correspondingly tapered shaped toe-end 6 of the insole 7, thereby enabling the insole 7 to be accurately aligned with the toe portion 2. Alignment and security of fit of the tapered insole toe-end 6 are assisted by the provision of a central ridge 8 within the toe portion recess 5. Accurate alignment is imperative, as a small misalignment will adversely affect toe-lasting and subsequent operations. Furthermore, there should only be need for supplementary attachment of the insole to the last at the heel. In some cases where the toe shape is very extreme, the excess material that forms the lasting allowance at the toe is trimmed, leaving no material for adhesion to the sole at the toe. This can lead to separation at the toe in wear. The separable toe portion provides material to which the upper may be lasted, and which remains in the shoe. Complex toe shapes may be produced using the last embodying the present invention, since the toe portion of the last need not be removable from the finished shoe. As shown in the Figures, the toe of the finished shoe will have a concave appearance. This could not be achieved if the entire last had to be removed. Finally, each body portion of the last may be used with one of a selection of toe portions, thereby allowing a number of alternatives of the shoe to be produced. Referring now to Figures 3 to 6, there are shown variants in which the toe portion 2a or 2b is integral with a toe "insole" portion. In Figures 3 to 6, the toe "insole" is ribbed for use in welted shoe manufacture. The main insole 7a is provided with a rib 11 extending around the insole 7 adjacent to its periphery. A rib 12 integral with the toe portion 2a of the last continues the line of the insole ribs 11 to the point of the complete insole. This is of particular benefit in the welted construction of footwear on lasts with a narrow toe, where there is considerable difficulty in achieving a uniform rib all around the toe. The toe portion 2a and body portion of the last are joined by peg 3 and hole 4 as in the embodiment of Figure 1. Furthermore in Figures 3 and 4 the insole 7a is joined to the toe portion 2a by means of a recess 5 which engages a tapered end 6 of insole 7a. Any movement of the insole at toe-lasting is obviated and a substantially perfectly uniform rib around the toe is created. The embodiment of toe portion 2 illustrated in Figure 2a is of a hollow construction designed to minimise use of material during production. The blind hole 4 is formed by a cylindrical annulus 10 projecting within a shell 9 of the toe piece 2, and the recess 5 simply comprises a gap between the annulus 10 and shell 9. An important feature of the peg 3 and blind hole 4 in this and other embodiments is that, for security of fitment of the toe piece 2 to the body portion 1 of the last, and to prevent relative rotation therebetween, the peg is not completely circular. For this reason, the hole 4 is illustrated throughout as having a substantially D-shaped cross-section, and it is intended that the peg be of similar cross-section and substantially close-fitting therein. However other shapes may be envisaged. The toe-portion fits sufficiently firmly to the last to allow a practical single lasting operation of the upper, and detaches when the last is subsequently removed, remaining in the finished shoe. The process allows a variety of shapes to be utilised with the same body portion of the last, particularly, but not exclusively, convex shapes, which would not be possible by conventional methods of construction which necessitate the ability to remove that part of the last that forms the toe shape (it being an integral part of a single piece last). Careful choice of toe shape and body portion will allow a large number of, if not all, sizes of footwear produced to share a single size of toe portion. In some cases, the toe piece may comprise an integral part of the insole, and the whole may be moulded as one piece.

Claims: A method of manufacturing footwear using a last comprising a main body portion (1) and a toe portion (2) which is detachably connected to the main body portion (1), the method comprising assembling the last by connecting the toe portion and the main body portion, building the footwear around the assembled last and removing the main body portion of the last leaving the toe portion in the finished footwear; characterised in that a recess (5) is provided in the toe portion and a forward portion (6) of the insole (7) of the footwear is inserted in the recess. A method of manufacturing footwear using a last comprising a main body portion (1) and a toe portion (2) which is detachably connected to the main body portion (1), the method comprising assembling the last by connecting the toe portion and the main body portion, building the footwear around the assembled last and removing the main body portion of the last leaving the toe portion in the finished footwear; characterised in that the toe portion is integrally formed with an insole portion. A method of manufacturing footwear as claimed in claim 1 or 2 including the step of coating the toe portion (2) of the last with adhesive so that it adheres to the upper of the footwear. A last comprising a main body portion (1), a toe portion (2), and means (3,4) for detachably connecting said body and toe portions; the body and toe portions being detachable in such a manner that the main body portion may be withdrawn from the lasted footwear while the toe portion remains in place in the finished footwear; characterised in that the toe portion has a recess (5) for insertion of a forward portion of an insole (7). A last as claimed in claim 4, wherein the connecting means comprises a peg (3) extending from the body portion (1) and a cooperating aperture (4) in the toe portion (2). A last as claimed in claim 5, wherein the peg (3) and aperture (4) are non-circular. An assembly comprising a footwear insole portion and a last, the last comprising a main body portion (1), a toe portion (2), and means (3,4) for detachably connecting said body and toe portions; the body and toe portions being detachable in such a manner that the main body portion may be withdrawn from the lasted footwear while the toe portion remains in place in the finished footwear; characterised in that the toe portion and insole portion are integrally formed. An assembly comprising a last as claimed in any of claims 4 to 6 and an insole inserted into the toe portion. A last as claimed in claim 4,5 or 6 in which the recess (5) is provided with an internal ridge (8) to grip the forward extension (6) of an insole (7). A last or assembly as claimed in any of claims 4 to 9 for use in footwear of welted construction, wherein the toe portion is provided with an integrally moulded rib (8) to match that on a ribbed insole (7). An assembly comprising a last as claimed in claim 10 and a ribbed insole (7) which extends over the body portion of the last and has a front extension portion to locate within the recess of the toe portion (2). A last or assembly as claimed in any of claims 4 to 11 in which said toe portion (2) has an upper surface at an area of connection of said portions, extending above an upper surface of an adjacent part of the main body portion (1). An item of footwear built around a last including a toe portion which remains in the finished footwear and further including an insole, characterised in that the toe portion has a recess into which a forward portion of the insole is inserted. An item of footwear built around a last including a toe portion which remains in the finished footwear and further including an insole, characterised in that the toe portion is integrally formed with an insole portion.

Inventors: ANDREWS THOMAS KEITH, CHAPMAN DAVID ARTHUR, HUMPHREY BRIAN, WATERFIELD ADAM PIERCE MACLEOD, WATERFIELD NORMAN RICHARD, ANDREWS, THOMAS KEITH, CHAPMAN, DAVID ARTHUR, HUMPHREY, BRIAN, WATERFIELD, ADAM PIERCE MACLEOD, WATERFIELD, NORMAN RICHARD
Applicants: COX GEO J LTD, GEO. J. COX LIMITED
Application year: 1989
Main classification: A43D3
IPC codes: A43D3