ADJUSTABLE PATTERN FOR CUTTING OF COLLARS FOR ARTICLES OF CLOTHING PARTICULARLY SHIRTS, BLOUSES AND THE LIKE

Abstract: A pattern for the making collar elements for articles of clothing of different sizes, in which each collar element comprises two shaped end parts and a central part extending so as to connect the end parts, comprises: - two end forms (2), each of which has a profile reproducing the shape of a respective end part of the collar element, and - a central body (3) to which the two end forms (2) can be attached selectively in generally symmetrical positions relative to each other and in an arrangement such that the two end forms (2) are selectively slidable towards and away from each other for their adaptation to different collar sizes.

Description: The present invention relates to patterns or templates for the cutting of collars for articles of clothing such as, for example, shirts and blouses. Collars for such articles of clothing are generally made from several shaped elements of textile material or, in any way sheet,material, which may be reinforced and which define respectively the outer surface (exterior) of the collar, the core of the collar, the so-called neckband and the core of the neckband. As known to experts in the art, one or both cores are not always used in collars for some articles. The collar is made by the joining together, usually by sewing, of the various collar elements which have previously been cut out with the use of a pattern or template. On the whole, each pattern can be seen to comprise two end forms whose profiles define the shape of those parts of the element intended to constitute the ends of the collar, and a central part whose profile defines the shape of that part of the element intended to constitute the "rear" of the collar, that is, the part of the collar which bears against the back of the neck when the article is worn. The need to manufacture articles of clothing and hence collars which are adapted to different sizes of wearers means that workrooms and factories producing shirts and garments in general must have a wide assortment of patterns. For example, in order to produce shirts in at least ten different sizes, it is necessary to have ten different patterns for each element of the collar. In the case of collars made up of four elements (exterior, core, neckband and neckband core) it is thus necessary to have forty different patterns available. This solution has been shown to be not very practical and effective for the user, particularly in view of the need to renew the assortment completely according to changes in taste and fashion. To alleviate these problems, it is known (FR-A-369.390) to employ an adjustable pattern for cutting of collars for articles of clothing, in which a first plate is longitudinally extensible by means of a second plate sliding in a guide and bearing a measuring scale. The first plate is an end part of the pattern, the profile of which reproduces the shape of a respective end part of a collar. Some problems have been experienced with that type of pattern, the construction and operation of which do not comply with the requirements of the mass-production work in which the patterns are used to guide the movements of cutting devices such as, for example, a saw. The object of the present invention is to provide a pattern for the cutting of collars for articles of clothing which, by providing a remedy for the aforesaid disadvantages, gives rise to an improved solution in terms of efficiency and convenience of application and use. According to the present invention, this object is achieved by pattern for the making of collar elements for articles of clothing of different sizes, as characterised in claim 1. In the pattern of the invention, therefore, the relative position of the end forms can be adjusted selectively to adapt it to the various collar sizes. In this manner, only two end forms for each collar element are sufficient to make the entire range of sizes. In addition to this, with the pattern of the invention, it is possible to cut collar elements of different sizes quickly in the same textile or sheet material, without having to change the different patterns in an operation which is inconvenient for skilled cutters. Further characteristics and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the description which follows, purely by way of non-limiting example, with reference to the appended drawings, in which: Figure 1 is a side elevational view of a pattern according to the invention, Figure 2 is a first plan view of the pattern of Figure 1, and Figure 3 is a section taken in the plane III-III of Figure 1; Figure 3 may be likened, however, to a plan view from an observation point opposite that of the plan view of Figure 2. In the drawings, an adjustable pattern or template for use in the manufacture of collar elements for articles of clothing is generally indicated 1. For a more precise description of what is meant by a collar element (exterior, collar core, neckband, neckband core) one is referred to the introduction to the present specification. In order to explain the invention, it is sufficient to note that each of these elements can be seen to consist in general of two end parts, defining the "ends" of the collar, connected together by a central part defining the "rear" of the collar itself. The pattern 1 can be seen to include two end forms 2 mounted in symmetrical positions relative to each other on a central body 3. The central body 3 is constituted essentially by a metal or plastics casing 4 having a generally elongate shape in the direction of alignment of the end forms 2. The casing 4 of the central body 3 is generally channel-shaped and receives slidingly within it two rods 5 having respective ends 6 which project outwardly of the casing 4. Each rod 5 has rack toothing 7 which meshes with a sprocket 8 (provided with only two teeth in the embodiment illustrated) which can be rotated by means of a knob 9 projecting outwardly of the casing 4. In other words, one is dealing with an operating mechanism which is essentially like that used in fastenings for casings of the type called a "cremone bolt". As a result of the rotation of the knob 9, the two rods 5 may be slid within the casing 4 so that their ends 6 which project from of the casing 4 move towards or away from each other. At its free end 6, each rod 5 has a coupling block 10 in which an appendage 11 provided in the corresponding end form 2 is snap-engaged. In other words, the block 10 and the appendage 11 constitute respectively the female part and the male part of a coupling which enables the end forms 2 to be connected to the central body 3. In the position of engagement with the central body 3, the two end forms 2 may be moved closer together or further apart in a controlled manner by rotation of the knob 9. As best seen from Figures 2 and 3, each form 2, constituted by a profile of metal or rigid plastics material, has a shape which reproduces the shape of a respective end part of the collar element whose outline is to be traced using the pattern 1 of the invention. The drawings appended to the present specification relate to two end forms 2 usable for the manufacture of the exterior of the collar. One is therefore dealing with two end forms having an approximately trapezoidal configuration with two longer sides diverging from the central body 3. In order to manufacture other elements of the collar (the core, neckband, and neckband core), other pairs of end forms 2 are provided (which are not explicitly illustrated) whose profiles reproduce the shape of the particular element. In its more complete configuration of use, the pattern 1 of the invention is thus constituted by a single central body 3 with an associated kit of end forms 2 constituted by a pair of forms 2 for each collar element (exterior, core, neckband, neckband core). A single pair of end forms is in fact sufficient for the manufacture of all the different sizes envisaged for a collar element, since the overall conformati on of the pattern can be adapted easily to the various sizes. In order to manufacture the smallest size, the knob 9 is rotated until the rods 5 are brought into their position of maximum withdrawal into the casing 4,illustrated in the drawings. In these conditions, the end forms 2 are as close together as possible. In order to manufacture successively increasing sizes, the knob 9 is rotated so as to cause the rods 5 gradually to protrude from the casing 4. As a result of the movement of the rods 5, the end forms 2 move away from each other to define a tracing pattern of gradually increasing length. The rotation of the knob 9 is preferably carried out in steps, the angular travel between two successive steps corresponding to a variation in the distance between the end forms of one centimetre, that is, the difference between two successive sizes. The adaption of the pattern of the invention to the various sizes is thus achieved by a sliding of the end forms 2 relative to the central body 3. Preferably, each end form 2 is provided with a further appendage 12 (Figure 3) which extends along one of the sides of the casing 4 and bears on it so as to guide the end form 2 in its movement towards and away from the central body 3. The guiding of the end forms 2 is further improved by a plate member 13 attached to the central body 3 on its side opposite the knob 9 in a disposition such that the end forms 2 are free to slide on the element 13 which has two slightly arcuate longer sides 14 which are substantially parallel to each other and extend in the direction of alignment of the end forms 2 to connect the end forms themselves. Consequently, the two longer sides 14 of the plate member 13 are connected to the longer sides of the end forms 2 defining corresponding sides of the central part of the collar element which is traced with the pattern 1. Finally, friction formations, such as discs of rubber or rough material, applied to the free ends (that is, the ends opposite the central body 3) of the forms 2 are indicated 15. These friction formations are provided on the face of each form which, in use of the pattern 1, is intended to face the textile or sheet material from which the collar element is to be cut. The function of the bearing formations 15 is to facilitate the firm bearing of the pattern 1 on the material which is to be cut, so as to prevent the pattern 1 from slipping accidentally.

Claims: Pattern for the making collar elements for articles of clothing of different sizes, in which each collar element comprises two shaped end parts and a central part extending so as to connect the end parts and in which the pattern includes a plurality of parts arranged for movement relative each other for their adaptation to different collar sizes, characterised in that it comprises two end forms (2), each of which has a profile reproducing the shape of a respective end part of the collar element and which can be selectively attached to a central body (3) in generally symmetrical positions relative to each other and in an arrangement such that the two end forms (2) are selectively slidable towards and away from each other for their adaptation to different collar sizes. Pattern according to Claim 1, characterised in that the central body 3 has two attachment members (5, 6) for the end forms (2), which are selectively movable towards and away from each other, each attachment member (5,6) and its the respective end form (2) having releasably engageable coupling members (10, 11). Pattern according to Claim 2, characterised in that each end form (2) is connected to the respective attachment member (5, 6) by a generally male and female coupling configuration in which the male part (11) is carried by the end form (2) and the female part (10) is carried by the attachment member (5, 6). Pattern according to Claim 2 or Claim 3, characterised in that the central body (3) has an associated sprocket (8) which is selectively rotatable (9), and in that each of the attachment members (5, 6) has a toothed part (7) meshing with the sprocket (8). Pattern according to Claim 4, characterised in that the rotation of the knob (9) occurs in steps, the angular spacing between two successive steps corresponding to a variation in the distance between the two end forms (2) equal to the difference between two successive collar sizes. Pattern according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterised in that the central body (3) has an associated plate member (13) with two larger sides (14) extending in the direction of alignment of the two end forms (2) in conditions of connection with the profile of the two end forms (2) themselves. Pattern according to Claim 1 or Claim 6, characterised in that each end form (2) has at least one appendage (12) which bears on the central body (3) so as to guide the sliding movement of the end form (2) relative to the central body (3) itself. Pattern according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that each end form (2) has friction formations (15) on its surface intended to face the collar element in use, for enabling the pattern (1) to rest firmly on the collar element.

Inventors: CAVALLO, BRUNO
Applicants: CAVALLO, BRUNO
Application year: 1986
Main classification: A41H3
IPC codes: A41H3