CALCIUM SULFATE COSMETIC POWDER PRODUCT

Abstract: A cosmetic powder utilized in eye shadows, blushes, and face powders is formed by combining a water-insoluble emollient, a surfactant to emulsify said emollient in said water, calcium sulfate hemihydrate, insoluble particulate material, at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient, and water in a sufficient amount to fully hydrate said calcium sulfate hemihydrate, and which composition is substantially free of aliphatic alcohols. The present invention permits the formation of cosmetic powder products without the necessity of compressing loose powder under pressure, or utilizing compositions requiring the evaporation of volatile solvents or the combination of multiple slurries. The cosmetic powder product is formed in situ during the hydration of calcium sulfate and has desired payoff characteristics. The composition may be poured into molds from the top and the end cosmetic powder product formed without the necessity of pressure pressing, volatilizing organic solvents, and without complex processing steps.

Description: CALCIUM SULFATE COSMETIC POWDER PRODUCT TECHNICAL FIELD This invention relates to cosmetic powders uti¬ lized in eye shadows, blushes, face powders, and other cosmetic uses wherein the primary component is a powder. Most cosmetic powders are sold in the form of a 5. pressed powder cake, which is formed by compressing loose powder such as talc and mica into a cake formed in a metal pan under pressure and thereafter taking the pan and gluing it into a compact or other suitable packaging receptacle. This is time-consuming and expensive and results 10. in losses due to overpressure or underpressure, which can affect either the pan or the appropriate payoff character- istics of. the resulting product, or the- resulting cake crumbles or lacks acceptable appearance. BACKGROUND ART 15. Various attempts have been made to overcome these difficulties by adding ingredients to improve the compact- ability and cohesiveness of the powder, and to improve payoff characteristics, all with varying degrees of suc¬ cess, but none has proven universally acceptable. 20. Efforts have been made by the art in the past to overcome these difficulties with some success, in¬ cluding suspending the powder formulation in a volatile liquid carrier such as alcohol to obtain a paste-like consistency, disclosed in the patent to Beckwith, U.S. 25. 1,968,475, and thereafter evaporating the carrier to form a powder cake. Another approach is disclosed in U.S. 4,337,859, wherein a molded powder cake is formed by forming a slurry of the powdered material with a fatty alcohol and vaporiz- able siloxane and introducing this material through the bottom of a cosmetic casing and, in effect, forming the powder cake upsidedown. This has produced a pourable and moldable powder formulation, which avoids the necessity 5. of using pressures and individual pans to form the product; however, the siloxane is expensive and large amounts are lost to the environment during removal from the poured slurry. It is difficult to efficiently obtain desirable 10. decorative effects and a uniform product using this method, which is much more complex than the method of this inven¬ tion. An other approach utilizes a calcium sulfate hemihydrate dispersed in a nonaqueous carrier and then 15. mixed with an aqueous dispersion of other ingredients. This is awkward and difficult to control and results in an unsatisfactory product having inferior payoff qualities and which does not put enough emollient on the skin. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The composition and method of the present inven¬ tion utilizes cosmetic powder ingredients and calcium sul¬ fate hemihydrate in an aqueous dispersion of emollients by which the powder product may be molded without any 5. pressure or the presence of vaporizable organic solvents. This forms a powder product in situ by the hydration of the calcium sulfate of the blend resulting in excellent payoff and strength characteristics and without the pres¬ ence of any aliphatic alcohol compounds. 10. The resulting product will accept decorative fin¬ ishes on the surface and most importantly can be poured, into* molds from the top. Any need for pressing and gluing or special grid systems is eliminated. The cosmetic powder composition of the present invention can be poured directly 15. into the top of the cosmetic compact receptacle because excellent finished surfaces result. The composition of the present invention permits the realization of varied shapes and surface finishes, greatly increasing the appearance characteristics of the 20. end products obtained. Not only can the composition be poured and molded, it can be extruded into stick products by controlling the viscosity of the mixture. The cosmetic composition of the present invention allows more emollients to be placed on the skin, which combats the drying effect 25. of cosmetic powder on the skin and at the same time yields better wear characteristics and color development. The cosmetic powder composition of this invention is formed by combining a water-insoluble emollient with a blend of insoluble organic or inorganic cosmetic powders, 30. colorants, calcium sulfate hemihydrate, and sufficent water to fully hydrate said calcium sulfate hemihydrate, O PI together with the usual cosmetic preservatives, antioxi- dants, fragrances, and the like as required, then pouring the resulting slurry into molds or extruding the blend into a stick form and allowing the hydration reaction to 5. be completed, which usually takes a day or two at room temperature or about eight hours at 53°C with the extruded or molded product exposed to circulating air. The resulting products have excellent payoff characteristics in combination with desirable strength. 10. The applications are even with excellent delivery of emollients and color to the skin with less drying ef¬ fects on the skin than most prior art products. The composition is particularly advantageous in forming cosmetic powder products because of the elimination 15. of the need to press powder into pans. The composition may be poured directly into the top of a compact or pan receptacle and the hydration reac¬ tion allowed to take place. Excellent decorative and surface effects may be obtained. 20. ' The cost and handling difficulties of solvents are eliminated, and because the blended ingredients are uniformly distributed in the hydrated calcium sulfate ma¬ trix, a product of excellent consistency results. The composition of the present invention results 25. from blending from 2 to 15% by weight of the water insol¬ uble emollient with 5 to 25% of calcium sulfate hemihy¬ drate, 40 to 65% water, and the balance particulate materi¬ al 15 - 65% comprising cosmetically acceptable colorants and fillers such as mica, polyethylene powder, talc, and 30. the like together with the usual amounts of cosmetic pre¬ servatives and antioxidants and fragrances, molding the blend into product shape and allowing the hydration reac¬ tion to take place and excess water removed. O PI In embodiments used for poured molded powder products, a suitable composition comprises a water insol¬ uble emollient such as isopropyl myristate, encapsulated mineral oil, white petrolatum, isopropyl palmitate, or 5. ethylhexyl palmitate in the amount of 5 - 10%, a surfactant in the amount of 1 - 8% (preferably 3 - 6%) to emulsify the emollient in water, calcium sulfate hemihydrate 8 - 20%, water 50 - 62%, and particulate material and other cosmetic ingredients 20 - 30% by weight. 10. Suitable surfactants, by way of example only, are Tween 20, which is laurate esters of sorbitol and sorbitol anhydride, comprising mostly the monoester condensed with 20 moles of ethylene oxide; and Triton X-100, which is Octoxynol-9, an "ethoxylated alkylphenol of the formula 15. CgHι 7 CgH4 (OCH 2 CH2) n 0H ' where "n" has an average value of 9. It is generally desirable to blend the liquid in¬ gredients and thereafter to add a preblended dry powder mix. The powder products resulting have excellent payoff 20.' qualities, and the drying effects of powders are diminished by the excellent application of emollients. Excellent color both in the molded product and as applied to the skin is obtained because of the uniformity of the ingredients in the calcium sulfate matrix. In 25. addition, there are no humectants in the composition. It is particularly advantageous that no grids are required to form a powder product directly in a compact re¬ ceptacle. The powder blend in a slurry form may be di¬ rectly poured into the top or front of the compact recep- 30. tacle or pan, hydration allowed to occur, and a fine ac¬ ceptable surface finish results. The slurry may be readily poured into various shaped molds, allowing greater flexibility and function for end products. OMPI BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION EXAMPLE I A preferred representative embodiment or mode for carrying out the present invention was made by blending 54.25 parts deionized water with preservatives and antioxi- dants comprised of methylparaben, .16 parts; propylparaben, 5. .06 parts; Germall 115 ( imidazolidin.yl urea), .09 parts; Tenox BHA (a mixture of isomers of tertiary -butyl-4 - hydroxanisole) , .01 parts; and thereafter blending with the resulting mix 10 parts by weight isopropyl myristate, 16.7 parts of Tween 20 (.laurate esters of sorbitol and 10. sorbital anhydride, comprising mostly the monoester con¬ densed with 2O moles of ethylene oxide) surfactant. To this blend is added a powder blend of 5 parts Mica M (mica pearl platelets), 5 parts of Flamenco Velvet {titanium dioxide coated mica), 5 parts Superpearl 100 (titanium 15. dioxide coated mica), cosmetic colors including black iron oxide, 1 part by weight, and Ultra Blue 3516 (Thomasett) 0.1 part by weight, together with 13.33 parts by weight calcium sulfate hemihydrate. The mixture is blended for one minute and poured directly into compacts or metal pan 20. receptacles and allowed to react at room temperature for two days. A powder cake having excellent surface appear¬ ance and desirable strength characteristics free of cracks is obtained. It has excellent .payoff characteris¬ tics, particularly including placing emollient oils on 25. the skin and very even application. EXAMPLE I I The procedure of the foregoing example is re¬ peated utilizing the following components in the amounts indicated: Ingredient parts 5. Deionized water 57 Isopropyl myristate 5 Triton X-100 1 3 Superpearl 100 10 Mica SV 2 5 10. 3282 Blend 3 7 10% Potassium- sulfate solution 2 Calcium sulfate hemihydrate 11 A well-formed powder cake, slightly dry, is obtained. EXAMPLE III 15. The same procedure of Example I is repeated using the following: Ingredient Parts Deionized water 57 Ethylhexyl palmitate 5 20. Triton X-100 3 Superpearl 100 10 Mi-ca Sv 5 3282 Blend 7 Ingredient parts 10% Potassium sulfate solution 2 Calcium sulfate hemihydrate 11 A well-finished cake with creamy application characteris- 5. tics is obtained having excellent payoff. EXAMPLE IV The procedure is repeated using the following, Ingredient Parts Deionized water 49 10. Silicone 1004 10 Triton X-100 6 Superpearl 100 10 Mica SV 5 3282 Blend 7 15. Potassium sulfate solution 2 Calcium sulfate hemihydrate 11 A nice cake with excellent payoff is obtained. EXAMPLE V The procedure is repeated using the following: 20. Ingredient Parts Deionized water 57 Castor oil 5 Triton X-100 3 Ingredient parts Superpearl 100 10 Mica SV 5 3282 Blend 7 5. Potassium sulfate solution 2 Calcium sulfate hemihydrate 11 A satisfactory cake with a slightly pitted appearance is obtained with good payoff quality, but slightly draggy. EXAMPLE VI 10. The procedure of Example II is repeated using the following: Ingredient parts Deionized water 49 Isopropyl myristate 10 15. Triton X-100 6 Superpearl 100 10 Mica SV 5 3282 Blend 7 10% Potassium sulfate solution 2 20. Calcium sulfate hemihydrate 11 An excellent cake is obtained having creamy application and excellent payoff. As indicated, by adjusting the viscosity of the blend by decreasing the amount of water and/or increasing 25. the filler materials, according to well-known techniques in the industry, a composition which may be extruded into cosmetic sticks such as eye-shadow pencils and the like is obtained. Depending upon particular manufacturing needs, 5. the speed of the hydration reaction may .be modified by adding appropriate amounts of known hydration accelerators or retardants. Usual additional cosmetic materials such as fragrances or micro-encapsulated oils and colorants may also be included. 10. The composition of the present inention provides an efficient and much less expensive way of manufacturing cosmetic powder products that have excellent strength and payoff characteristics, attractive surface appearance, and do not require compacting pressure, which is a primary 15. detriment in the most widely used method of preparing cosmetic powder compositions at present. The composition also permits products to be formed by top pouring into various shaped molds or directly into cavities in the end product, such as compacts, and 20. the hydration reaction being completed in the molds. The components of the composition are uniformally distributed in the end product, thus enhancing appearance and product consistency. The composition also is free of organic water- 25. soluble hydroxyl-containing compounds, especially, glycols and glycerines used in prior methods of making oldable cosmetic powder compositions which employed calcium sulfate hemihydrate. ' The products obtained according to this invention are uniform in color and strength characteristics 30. and have excellent payoff, resulting in the even applic¬ ation of powder, colorants, and emollients on the skin's surface with a creamy, smooth application. While the invention has been explained by a de¬ tailed d escription of certain specific embodiments, it is understood that various modifications and substitutions can be made in any of them within the scope of the appended claims which are intended also to include equivalents of such embodiments.

Claims: THE CLAIMS 1. A cosmetic composition formed by combining a water-insoluble emollient, calcium sulfate hemihydrate, in- soluble particulate material, at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient, and water in a sufficient amount to fully hydrate said calcium sulfate hemihydrate, and which composition is substantially free of aliphatic alcohols. 2. A composition as claimed in Claim 1 further comprising a surfactant to emulsify said emollient- in said water. 3. A composition as claimed in Claim 2 wherein said emollient comprises from about 2 to 15%, said surfact- ant from 1 to 8%, said calcium sulfate hemihydrate from 5 to 25%, water from 40 to 65%, and particulate material and cosmetic ingredients from about 15% to about 65% by weight of composition. 4. A composition as claimed in Claim 1 wherein said emollient comprises from 5 to 10%, said surfactant from 3 to 6%, calcium sulfate hemihydrate from 8 to 20%, said water from 50 to 62%, and particulate material and cosmetic ingredients from 20 to 30% by weight of said composition. 5. A composition as claimed in Claim 4 wherein said emollient comprises 5%, said surfactant 3%, said calcium sulfate hemihydrate 11%, said water 57%, and particulate material and cosmetic ingredients 22% by weight of said composition, and including 2% of a 10% - REX; O H solution of potassium sulfate. 6. A composition as claimed in Claim 4 wherein said emollient is isopropyl myristate. 7. A composition as claimed in Claim 6 wherein said surfactant is octoxynol-9. 8. A method of producing an improved cosmetic powder composition comprising blending together water, emollient oil, a surfactant to emulsify said emollient in said water, particulate material and cosmetic ingredient, and calcium sulfate hemihydrate, said water being present in sufficient amount to fully hydrate said calcium sulfate hemihydrate, placing the resulting blend in , molds, said calcium , sulfate hemihydrate thereafter becoming fully hydrated. 9. A method as claimed in Claim 8 wherein said composition is substantially free of aliphatic alcohols.

Inventors: HORTON DONALD DAVID, MURPHY JOHN H, HORTON, DONALD, DAVID, MURPHY, JOHN, H.
Applicants: KOLMAR LABORATORIES, KOLMAR LABORATORIES, INC.
Application year: 1984
Main classification: A61K7
IPC codes: A61K8, A61Q1