Location location location. Why stay in the tourist-ridden old town when you can be a 10-minute walk away, in a well-kitted, homey apartment with the most killer view ever and the sound of the surf lulling you to sleep? Sitting out on the balcony was pure unadulterated joy, whether we were watching the surfers (sort of addictive) or enjoying supper under the stars. The apartment is well laid out with numerous spots to chill and take in the view, and it had everything we needed to be comfortable and well accommodated. Luis is a charming host who clearly cares about his guests, timely and helpful in his communication, and an endless font of local recommendations. We loved the Gros neighborhood, which felt more authentic than old town. The promenade on the surfer beach is a great mix of serious surfers, local kids on skateboards and folks pushing strollers and elders in wheelchairs....totally different vibe than the main city beach promenade, which is packed with tourist selfie takers. And while we did one awesome pinxtos crawl in the old town, we had equally fab meals on our side of the bridge, including at an awesome spot called AMA Lur, known for its delicious roast chicken, packed with local color.