Staying at Sasibill (the apartment) is like staying at your abuela’s house, if your abuela was the most welcoming, charming, and hospitable person in the world. Sasibill has everything— including coffee, treats, and toothbrushes in case you forgot yours. It is warm and personal, with photos of Begoña’s grandchildren, vibrant art, and a history of pintxos on the desk with recommendations. Then, there is Begoña. She picked us up from the train and dropped us off at the bus station. We spoke in Spanglish (really, Castellano/English) and learned about el País Vasco and Euskara, and how it differs from the rest of Spain. Begoña checked on us to make sure we were doing well during our stay, and told us “you’re at home.” The true highlight of a monthlong trip, my only worry is when we’ll get to return— and how to convince Begoña to visit us stateside.