Ah, the Soapfactory! Phoebe is the warmest, most considerate host, and the apartment even more pleasant than the pictures reveals: simplistic utility, warm wooden detailing and a view from the attic bedroom that, looking straight up into the mountains, makes it obvious where to go from Sollér: into the woods and over the mountains to Dèia, Valdemossa, Fornalutx and the calas in between. Ask Phoebe about any route or restaurant, and she will point you in a direction outside the beaten tourist track.