Grace is a wonderful host. She was waiting for me outside the building when I arrived to check in. The apartment is a lovely pre-war gem in an elevator building, meticulously clean and very comfortable.

The neighborhood is the real star. You're 185 blocks from Times Square, next to Inwood Hill Park and almost on the Harlem River-- but only 30 minutes away by the A train. There's an air of tranquility and ease that doesn't fit the conventional Manhattan image. There are numerous restaurants, bars, and delis in walking distance, most notably Indian Road Cafe, a neighborhood bistro, coffee shop, and wine bar.

Grace provides a very comprehensive visitor's guide.