I took my goddaughter to New Orleans for a long Mardi Gras stay (12 days) and a friend from New York joined us for the actual long weekend in the accommodation next door. For me it was the most perfect place, away from the hustle and bustle of the tourist area, very neighbourly and friendly. The bikes were brilliant for exploring the whole city. We avoided cycling after dark as they warned us for bike theft but the N. O. roads are somewhat challenging even by daylight. That said, we found the car drivers to be very courteous and prudent towards cyclists.
Frenchmen Street is approx. half an hour walk depending on your pace. The neighbourhood is friendly, with some gems (food, drinks, music) literally around the corner
Matt and Dusty are the hosts with the most: southern hospitality at its best with incredible humour and generosity and I felt very privileged walking with the Société de St. Anne on Mardi Gras day. To take part in the remembrance ritual at the Mississipi River was incredibly moving and one of the main reasons to go on this trip.
I am deeply in love with this special city, warts and all. Staying with Matt and Dusty in the Bywater only made that feeling stronger. Thank you for that, thank you for everything!
1 tip: If you are a light sleeper, bring ear plugs as there is midnight freight train.