This is the way to do New Orleans. Zalia's place is in a really cool neighborhood that's a short cab or walk or bike ride from the French Quarter, but it is removed from the crazy tourist factor. But it's no sleep neighborhood: the apartment is literally above a great bar (a comedy show and a cat acrobat show were going on the weekend we went); across the street is a good Slavic bar with food and music; and the Hi Ho Lounge, with music and lots of local twentysomethings; and a karaoke bar next door. We would definitely stay there again.