Through some miscommunication, my wife and I arrived at Mangolay around 5 p.m. instead of 9 p.m. We were greeted at the gate by an Official Welcoming Committee of three dogs, followed by Paul, who was surprised but unfazed to see us so early, relieved that we were not arriving after dark. The Road to Mangolay leads from the town of Pāhoa via a highway, a secondary road across an old lava flow, and finally a red gravel road through a jungle full of mango trees. Mangolay is clearly marked by a sign at the gate, but it might still be difficult to try to find at night for the first time.

Paul and Dennis were gracious and cordial hosts. They took most of our luggage in and immediately invited us to join them on the lanai for a glass of wine. Spotting a pushover, their self-appointed Head Dog, an irresistible mutt named Felicia, immediately became my worshipful, lifelong friend.

The lanai and pool are as beautiful as the airb&b photo shows. The main house is equally beautiful and full of impressive art. The single guest room is actually a separate little guest house, which is also beautifully decorated and very comfortable, and has an outdoor shower with a potted orchid in the enclosure. (There is also an indoor shower, which was nice because the first night the temperature plunged into the frigid and unusual 60s). A large expanse of lawn is rimmed by a jungle full of exotic trees. The second day, Dennis showed us around the stunning, intimate aquatic garden that takes up the space in back of the house.
One of the least visited areas of the Big Island, Puno is also one of the most beautiful. Some of its most interesting natural attractions and scenic drives are nearby. The area’s largest town, about 20-30 minutes away, is Pāhoa, which has a distinctive, somewhat bohemian atmosphere and several good restaurants. In the room is an information sheet for guests with notes about the facilities and area attractions, and a detailed map of the roads in the immediate area. Paul and Dennis elaborated on the attractions and made personal recommendations of restaurants in Pāhoa. Before we left, Dennis also answered various questions I had about the wildlife in the area.

This is a wonderful place. If you weren’t laid back when you arrived, you will be by the time you leave. By the second day I had decided to shave only every other day, a practice I continued for the rest of our stay in Hawaii. We hope to return sometime when we can stay longer than two nights. Fortunately for us, the area was having what locals perceived as a drought, with sunny days and an amazing sky at night. You might easily have rain, though--quite possibly lots of it.