Sweetly post-apocalyptic living: Mad Max meets Martha Stewart. It's not in Pahoa, which is a micro-town about 10 miles away--it's a couple of miles' drive across new lava fields. This will violate your rental car agreement (unless you got a Jeep.) The area, Kalapana Gardens, was obliterated by lava in the early 1990s; there is no water, electricity, phone service, wifi, or roads. Coconut Sun Hale is a simple metal shed under scruffy trees, perfectly clean and tidy, with a nice daybed and plain wooden table and chairs. Candles supply the only light. The outhouse is more pleasant than a portapotty. Coqui frogs cheep all night, nuts drop at unexpected intervals on the metal roof, and we woke with a gecko stuck to the wall. Martin is very cheerful and responds immediately to calls.