What can I say? I had such a lovely time at Irmak's place. The flat is wonderful – bright, spacious, and adorned with happy, well-looked-after pot plants – and the room is the jewel in its crown, with a big comfy bed and a private balcony to boot. Irmak is a simply delightful host; she is bubbly, caring, and full of wit and wisdom, but also gives her guests all the space they need to make them feel comfortable and at home. Her friends come and go, all of them charming, good company and happy to speak to you in English. The flat could not be better located, a stone's throw from the sea, walking distance from Istanbul's hippest bars and coffeeshops, and well-connected to the historical sites of the European side of town. If I come back to Istanbul, I wouldn't want to stay anywhere else!