Fatma and Hasan are truly warm and generous people. I felt welcome from the first night I arrived, when they invited me up to the spectacular roof terrace for complimentary tea and fruit.

As other guests have commented, this house is a magnet for a colourful cross-section of travellers. Indeed, this could well be considered its chief draw.

The room itself was comfortable and spacious enough for my needs, and the adjacent bathroom will no doubt become even more convenient once its upcoming renovation is finished.

Serendipitously, Hasan and I crossed paths on my final day in the city, while I was drifting through the Grand Bazaar. He very kindly helped me find a shop and a restaurant that had been recommended to me – no mean feat in its literally Byzantine structure – but also took the time to show me his own workshop, which was a unique and memorable experience.

I subsequently found out that many vendors in the bazaar are facing eviction due to rampant and shortsighted gentrification, which is also rapidly transforming the characterful Kurdish district that Fatma and Hasan inhabit. I dearly hope that both their home and his workshop are spared the wrecking ball: both are real gems.