We did not meet Leyla, but Gaye, who knows the neighbourhood intimately, was always available. It was a great relief that Gaye was able to arrange a private driver to get us to the airport for an early morning flight. The flat was charming and comfortable and Balat is a fascinating corner, the oldest quarter, it Istanbul. We felt very lucky to have a unique experience of this authentic community, a labyrinth of winding streets and crumbling examples of traditional architecture. Balat is a completely different world to tourist Istanbul but is only a bus ride away from all the famous places. People were very genuine, warm and friendly and we found the neighbourhood to be very safe. However it is easy to get lost in Balat, especially after dark.