Expect everything you wish for in a place to stay in Istanbul. This is a lovely old Ottoman period apartment restored with great sympathy to reflect its former glory but incorporating all the modern conveniences you'd find in a five star hotel - and better! Esra really is the perfect host - understanding, kindly and mindful of guests' needs to guarantee a great stay. Don't be put off by the (marble!) stairs and the rather incongruous entrance because the reward at the top is well worth the effort - and the exercise ain't bad either! Five nights at the end of October in a very quiet location only a few minutes walk to the Galata Tower and Tünel or Şişhane metro stations - we loved it!