Staying at Uygar’s place was a bit like casually crashing at an old friend with a guest room: no fuss was made when I arrived at 6 a.m. from the airport, his friendly mum was around, and later we did catch up over tea in the kitchen. It’s not a fancy place or area, but real, and close to many places you need (supermarket) or want to see. I love to travel like that.