Alev is a fantastic host. And it starts with the quality of the apartment. Everything, including the doors, are works of art-many by local artists. It's a great launchpad into a history with flavor unto its own.

The neighborhood is quiet and on the side street of a trendy neighborhood. The restaurants in the area, particularly the pastry shops, are worth every cent. The chefs are creative and the meals don't break the bank.

But most importantly, the neighborhood is walkable, and there seems to be a farmer's market on every corner every day of the week. The ratio of fresh produce to processed and packaged goods is completely inverse to what I am used to in America. You will feel better and live a healthier lifestyle your time in this neighborhood.