Istanbul is a magnificent, overwhelming city to discover. I wouldn't have chosen to have any base but Fatma and Hasan's home. Located in proximity to İstiklal Street and Galata Tower, walkable to everything (if you're an industrious walker), their darling multi-level home has been turned into a boarding house of sorts. My attic room was charming, airy yet full of personality, and right next to a tenants' kitchen will all basic amenities (including a washer and terrace to hang laundry). The whole home and shared bathroom are clean; the water is plentiful and hot! But best of all are Fatma and Hasan themselves. Though I wasn't able to converse in Turkish, they went far out of their way to make me feel comfortable. I will treasure forever the time I spent with Fatma taking a cooking class (she's a phenomenal chef - YUM), learning to make many traditional courses, and then sharing a meal with her and Hasan. I even got to visit Hasan's archery shop in the Grand Bazaar! I never expected Turkey to be a country I would visit repeatedly, but I now look forward to planning my next trip to see these two splendid, generous people.