Lucky the people who get to stay in Hatice's apartment. Staying here is as much a privilege as a pleasure as the apartment is as comfortable as it is beautiful. I loved the cools blues (the sea) and browns (sand), and especially the "mosaic" floors -- it was like having your own Great Palace (be sure to visit the Mosaic Museum!). And those gorgeous views -- I would go from window to window (there are six of them and one is in the bedroom!), watching the play of light over the Golden Horn and the surrounding neighborhood.

Hatice -- a most engaging and welcoming host -- ensures a very pleasant visit by her many thoughtful gestures: a current issue of Time Out Istanbul, guidebooks, hand cream on the bedroom night table, olive oil in the kitchen. Not only is the kitchen very well equipped, but there is also an auxiliary area with an electric kettle, coffee maker, toaster and microwave. And if you are like me the nearby writing table with the view of the Suleymaniye mosque may just become your favorite perch.

The neighborhood is quite wonderful -- very local, lots of Ottoman houses, and enough shops to satisfy basic needs. And the location, nicely off the beaten path, is convenient to everything. Proximity to the Kasimpasa shuttle ferry to the Old City is a real plus. And walks to the Trophane tram stop and the Karakoy ferry on the Bosphorus take you through other wonderful neighborhoods.

A long term stay is easily envisioned. I certainly hope to return one day -- but in the meantime I will wholeheartedly recommend it to my traveling friends.

Thank you, Hatice!