Emmy’s apartment is an oasis in the middle of the tourist heart of Stockholm — spacious, bright and so charmingly decorated that staying in after our toddler’s early bedtime was a pleasure, not a drag. The farmhouse kitchen was a great place to drink tea and watch the neighbors across the courtyard play chess. The bed is big and comfortable, and despite the central location, we didn’t hear any street noise. This is a third-floor walk-up, which was no problem for us. We felt like family guests and would love to come back sometime — thank you!