If you don't read the whole review, just know this: Russafa is fabulous. The apartment is lovely. Most importantly, Guillermo is a gem.

Guillermo took me to a number of local spots, including the weekly market, a café-bookstore, and an outdoor movie screening. I fell in love with the Russafa neighborhood, which maintains a bohemian vibe but is just a ten-minute walk from the main train stations.

Back at the apartment, the fully equipped kitchen meant I could cook and not break the bank. Guillermo just invested in an espresso machine, and the coffee tastes divine. The apartment was quiet when I wanted to rest, but Guillermo is always up for a conversation, in English or in Spanish, whether about immigration in El Salvador or the best bus line to take.