Location, location, location. "Bohemian" is right; the decor of this cozy little flat is all over the place, a hodgepodge of pieces Felipe and Pilar found who-knows-where. And by the fourth flight of steps, you're really starting to feel it and you have one more flight to go. BUT: your hosts are friendly, helpful, and always reachable, everything you need is right there within reach, and the location --- literally steps from the Plaza de Mayor --- cannot be beat. If you're interested in the historical, western side of the city (the Royal Palace, the Cathedral, the oldest buildings), well, you're RIGHT THERE in this apartment. And the walk to Retiro Park, and the train station, was only about 25:00.