We have a couple of Airbnb tests: is the host gracious and helpful and is the apartment more than a tourist stage set. Carmelo and his apartment just off Gran Via meet both test. The man is gracious, a responsive communicator and helpful about pragmatic city matters. The apartment is overflow for the family apartment (completely separate but in terms of design one place) and you can tell it’s been lived in. The location is a combination of central - everything is such a close walk - and just enough hipster marginal to ground us in the life of the city.