Maria and I never met in person, but she was *so* helpful and generous, allowing me to stay in a different apt. when my flight got in early, and I was wiped out, and the calle Virtudes apt. was not yet ready for occupancy. I am so grateful! Once in the roomy, light-filled calle Virtudes apt., I was charmed. The place is very comfortable and clean, and María was very helpful in suggesting the calle Ponzano as a place to look for a good meal. The blocks near her apt. are rife with excellent restaurants of every price, simple and neighborhoody (cervecería El Doble and restaurante Viela) to trendy (check out the mariscos at Fide or the Cheese Bar on Jose Abascal). There are handy metro stops nearby, and you can also walk nearly anyplace you'd want to go. I very much enjoyed my stay and will happily look forward to my next estancia en calle Virtudes 22. Thank you so much, María!