Gisele and Evelin's apartment is in a neighborhood, not a haven for tourists. People here work and raise families. The owners of the cafes, pastry shops, and tiny fresh food markets open early and greet their regulars. Shopkeepers are used to visitors and are patient with them, but they do not depend on tourists for a living. Parents guide their children on little push-bikes right down the middle of the street. Those on foot usually move aside for a vehicle but if they do not - unaware of or unconcerned about the approaching car - the driver calmly follows them at walking pace. No one honks. At days end shopkeepers shut down - some later than others - but by bedtime the street is quiet. There is no nightlife within hearing, and if you want to party loud and late, you'll need to do that outside the neighborhood and return quietly. It was perfect for us.