Maria Helena should be called 'Santa Helena' because she is such a saint! She made us feel instantly at home, even preparing some pastries for us (which I think were queijadas de leite e caramelo, basically a condensed sweet cream/custard pastry without a tart encasement, topped with a caramel glaze - lush!). She and her husband, Jose (‘not Mourinho!’) were happy to chat freely with us when we returned from a long day walking around Porto, offering a glass of red wine and lots of amusing discussion. We were made to feel at home, knowledgeable about the area, and more friends than guests. It would be a privilege to have the chance to stay again. Much love from Jazz and Lizzi.