I didn't really know what to expect of Okarito or the cottage. I'd been told about the wildlife nearby and of course Frans Josef which is a short ride away. I sort of expected the cottage to be basic based on other views. I didn't think so: I thought it was a lovely, comfortable place with everything I wanted. More homely than luxurious.
What I hadn't picked up before is quite what a wonderful host Laura is. Advice on a huge landslip between Nelson and Okarito that threatened my journey; follow up texts on the latest info and websites; and then going out of her way to book me in for the best chopper tour, the best lagoon / birding trip, and then the best Kiwi hunt. And all this when there was something major going on in her life. The best Airbnb host I've ever had. Thank you.