Eugenia is a warm, kind and cultured host, and her home reflects these qualities as well. The rooms were comfortable and rich with historic touches. My favorite parts were the bathroom with its pebble floor shower and the outdoor space, which was lush and had seating sheltered from the rain. Every morning I drank tea outside on a wicker chair, facing diverse, beautiful garden against a deep red wall. The house is near cafes, a bustling market, bars and restaurants. The neighborhood is a kaleidoscopic joy to explore. It's a destination – more than just a place to lay your head.