Like many residences in the Centro Historico, Bernardo's home is one of a series of apartments, on two stories, surrounding an open air courtyard. The charing old apartments were formerly residencies for nuns and, of great interest to us, during our 12 day stay the courtyard and facades were quickly re-decorated in preparation for the filming of tele-novella to be called “Simplemente Maria”.

The central flower bed container was re-plastered, tiled in talavera and planted with real and plastic flowers: the walls and entryways re-painted, a shrine to the Virgin of Guadalupe installed on the south wall: plastic creepers envelop the 2nd floor balconies: garish potted plastic flowers in plastic pots were attached to any available vantage point: imitation terracotta tiles adorn the shade structures over every doorway: new nameplates were attached, and a collection of elaborate crosses hung on walls to reinforce the Catholic ethos.

The formerly faded and slightly shabby courtyard was transformed by a rag-tag crew of workers, operating sporadically with numerous prolonged breaks, on precarious ladders with dangerous tools, into a kind of Mexican TV orgasm of kitsch whose over-the-top garish colors were reminiscent of a Bollywood movie.
In the final 4 days of our stay we witnessed the entertaining filming of some of the crucial components of the life of “Simply Maria”. On Friday night she was heavily embarazada (pregnant) and arguing with a Mariachi guitarist and on Saturday already showing the new baby to admiring relatives at a christening party. Throughout this process Bernardo offered informative insights into the nature of the pysche mexicano and well as los trágicos acontecimientos de Iguala.

The apartment is exactly as described, compact and comfortable and, most important, in a superb location for exploring all the sites of central DF, being less than 10 minutes walk from the Zocalo, Cathedral, Belles Artes, Templo Major etc.

Bernardo is absolutely invaluable at giving insider advice – his especial triumphs included El Jardín del Pulpo, for ceviche to die for in Coyoacán – (following a visit to the houses of Trotsky and Frida Kahlo) and the locally patronized La Casa de Toño with outstanding pozole in the Zona Rosa. He always went the extra mile to find taxis and make phone calls.

Bernardo and Gitte are charming, interesting and very intelligent hosts who both speak English fluently. Highly recommended!