My 2 night stay with Edgar, Jazz and Santhé in Colonia Morelos was excellent. Not a touristy area, but a very authentic experience and not a far walk to the Centro Histórico. The room was basic but all I needed. What made my stay special was the hospitality. By chance, Edgar was going to the same jazz festival I came to town for, so we went together and on the second day I took his 'local underground' tour option and he took me to so many important and interesting sites of importance: including ruins, old printing stands, the lucha libre stadium, Garibaldi, the fringes of the zonas bravas, a bar with an incredible view of Templo Mayor, and fantastic comida corrida menu for 50 pesos at his friends very cool and charming restaurant. There's no other way I could've seen and experienced so much in such little time. I especially recommend them to anyone looking for a similar experience!