This is a very special place. The location - on a lovely square in leafy Roma Norte, a neighbourhood in transition - is charming, but not too. The inner courtyard entryway to Meli's flat is a little village in itself, with watchful residents and a tasting room on the side, if you knew where to look. Meli's spacious loft, her father's former studio which you ascend by a spiral staircase, is filled with wonderful art and character. There is a friendly dog and cat to keep you company - if you want. Your room is large and private, with high ceilings and a lazy fan to move the air and keep you comfortable.

Meli is the perfect intelligent local host - bilingual, warm, generous, considerate, perceptive, practical, available when needed but never intrusive, an interesting conversationalist, a good listener and an even better dispenser of sensible advice on how to get the best from your visit. She introduced me to friends who helped to guide me around the city and understand the culture, and to some of the wonderful intricacies of artisanal mezcal. She went well out of her way to give me an entree to life in Mexico City and to make my stay a rewarding one.

It may not be for everyone, but Meli's place is an excellent base for independent travelers who are looking for something more than just a comfortable apartment with modern conveniences in a safe, hip and happening area.

Highly recommended.