Lovely spot. Communication with Maria was easy. My initial booking was rejected as Maria was away and our flight arrived far too late to get keys from her housekeeper. However she agreed to provide them to the local friend we were meeting and all went smoothly from there, with two sets of keys provided and a kitchen with essentials including a bottle of red (always a bonus after spending any amount of time at London Heathrow airport).

The apartment is what you'd call eclectic design wise but we loved it - the pictures are spot on. Everything is modern and new, it's in a great spot and if you've ever fantasised about having an apartment with a private lift this is for you. 6 people would be a squeeze but it's great for a couple or 4 people (but it's a big bed plus two singles so flip a coin or get bookers choice!) Bedrooms were cool, upstairs light and airy with a good through breeze when the sets of patio doors were opened.

A fabulous little terrace/balcony caught the most spectacular sunrises and sunsets, with a 1am view to the bell tower of a huge church across the streets, the lights of which attracted moths and swooping, presumably, hungry bats. Expect loud bells at varying times - as a light sleeper the first of the 7am peel woke me, but Ellie didn't notice a thing. Great views over the city and out to the sea. If you don't mind a vertiginous set of stairs, the roof terrace is even better. Either way, you'll want sunblock :) On the subject of stairs, if you had impaired mobility, you should probably look somewhere else (which is the only negative thing I can think of). The lift arrives adjacent to the two bedrooms, but the kitchen and terraces are up a narrow stone spiral staircase - it's a consequence of building that's at probably several hundred years old. Even with the nicest of modern fit outs there are some things you can't change. For me it was a big tick in the "character" column, but I wouldn't recommend it to Steven Hawking.

Maria messaged the first day to check that there were no problem and my honest reply was that I'd move in permanently. We're already plotting a return trip and subject to availability, I know where we'll be staying. If you're looking for an stylish apartment in the centre of an historic city with great food, wonderful weather, architecture on an epic scale (spanning 4 thousand years - give or take), fab scenery, friendly people and helpful host, you really can't go wrong. We loved it and can't wait to love it again.

Thanks Maria for making our stay wonderful and going the extra mile to overcome the challenges of airline times vs. apartment keys. If you ever want to sell your apartment...