We entered a bright, cozy gem of a space that concentrated the color and light of Lisbon like a prism. After viewing the street from one of the small balconies, then taking a walk, we grasped what others meant by “the perfect location.” You are on the lower edge of the Alfama, where it sweeps into the Baixa—with easy access to the Alta and Chiado (to name only two). The street shimmies with residents of this still-authentic neighborhood, along with a quiet, steady flow of fellow travelers. Light streams through in the morning (there are shutters to dim it) and fills the space with a day-long glow. Alexandre was very responsive, clear, and kind— even arranging for us to check in many hours early. His cousin Diogo, who greeted us warmly, gave a helpful orientation to Lisbon and the unit. Surfboard Apartment— well-equipped, exactly as represented, and perfect for a couple fleeing pre-fab travel— was the high point of a magical visit. Pessoa would have loved it.