What a revelation Lisbon was. Beautiful city, great food and lovely people...especially Ines and Antonio who could not have been more helpful or kind. Their apartment is simply perfect and everything you need is 'just around the corner'... literally! Yes, you have to climb a few stairs to get there but it's worth it for the views and the chic home away from home they provide. It also helped work off the 3 pasteis de belem I had in one sitting...not including the one they left for us as an arrival treat along with the most delicious jams and bread to snack on! We were only there for 3 days and crammed lots of things in but their guest book and "Things you must see and do" notes are perfect for honing your choices down so that you get a true sense of the city whilst visiting those special places off the tourist map. We are already planning our return. I cannot recommend Ines and Antonio or their beautiful apartment highly enough. Next time we will have that coffee.