We loved Graca and the apartment which felt very authentic and is delightfully furnished with everything you would normally find in any home. Miguel and his family live in the building and he owns and runs the charming wine bar Vinho do Graca below, which we highly recommend for the slow enjoyment of tasty cheeseboards, salads, cured meats, and fine wines. The apartment is on the 1st floor (but you do not hear any noise from below), on a quiet street that is nevertheless close to all that the area has to offer - cafes, shops, restaurants and fado. It’s hilly and like the rest of Lisbon the streets are cobbled so forget high shoes and be prepared to walk around a bit before you get to grips with the (very good) local transport. The things we liked best about the apartment: the shady courtyard garden, the roof terrace (reached by the external fire escape 3 floors up) with its amazing views across the city and to the castle, the homely feel and decor of the interior … and Miguel.