Irina and Ricardo's place in Alfama is terrific. If you're looking for an authentic Portugese experience in the heart of the oldest district in Lisbon, you can't go wrong with her place. Her housekeeper Sofia is an absolute sweetheart and was right around the corner just in case we needed anything. Her place included all the amenities you could want for an apartment in a European city and even had a clothes washer. Overall a great experience and I'd definitely recommend staying at Irina's place if you're looking for a spot in Alfama.