We had a wonderful time in João's apartment in Lisbon. The apartment itself is high-ceilinged, clean, attractively furnished, and superbly equipped with everything one could need for a comfortable extended stay—we were there for a week. We were welcomed by Ana, who showed us around the apartment and also spent time patiently reviewing various tourist attractions in the area and orienting us to the public transportation system as well. João wrote us to make sure we were comfortably settled in and left excellent instructions on procedures and on how to work applieances. We loved the Graça neighborhood as well, the heart of which is just up the rather steep street (this is Lisbon after all), where the famous 28E tram turns around. There is a beautiful view two blocks away, and helpful and welcoming storekeepers at the various fruit markets, supermarkets and bakeries that circle the square. The area has a tourist presence and tourist amenities but is also very much a neighborhood. Public transportation is easy from there, including buses, trams, tuk tuks, and a taxi stand.