We have stayed in this cozy apartment in the Santos-o-Velho neighborhood for two years in a row. It’s close to excellent restaurants and grocery stores; the bed is comfortable; shower pressure is excellent; and it is kept sparklingly clean. The kitchen is small, but efficient, and had everything needed to prepare the wonderful food we found at the Ribeira Market. If you want to be outside the tourist center and live in a local neighborhood, this is the place for you.