Marta's place was warm and welcoming with lots of natural light and a great position in Alfama. With windows open, we could hear Fado from the local Fado houses on most nights but never after midnight and not too loudly to disturb us. The neighbourhood offered the opportunity to immerse ourselves in a way of life long gone in most of Europe.

We stayed at the apartment for over ten days and it was difficult to leave. On our next visit to Lisbon we will definitely be staying at the same place.

We also had the opportunity to check out André's other place upstairs and it is just as great, with even slightly better views.

As for André, he was the best possible host and since he actually lived in Alfama for seven years, his tips were really valuable. Definitely try the grilled fish at Pateo 13 (we actually went several times).