Ideal clean, bright, well-appointed top-floor flat with amazing views from each room. Rita (a total cutie) picked us up at the train station, and we were so grateful. But the hosts' warm hospitality doesn't end there: they provide a great list of local recommendations as well as some browsing materials in the apartment, and when I told Rita I was a vegetarian, she said she was too and sent me extra listings for some of her faves. Our hosts also regaled us with a jar of delicious homemade jam and a lovely bottle of wine.

As for our stay in the very charming Alfama neighborhood (a foodies' heaven), we were thrilled when we realized the apartment not only faces the gorgeous river from above, but below, on street level, the stately Pantheon. The surrounding area is also the site of a bustling expansive flea market two days a week, including our first full day there. Strolling through this historic setting and examining all kinds of household and cultural items, we got a peek into beautiful Portugal, its people, and its past. What a way to start our stay in Lisbon!

We slept well each night on the comfortable bed (with clean, fresh hotel-style linens, unlike other Airbnbs) and enjoyed relaxing on the small couch as we watched the ships come and go (ok, we watched some indulgent TV too, since there are several English&French cable channels). The day we left, we were sent off sweetly by our kind hosts, who called us a cab to the airport and otherwise made sure we were happy and comfortable. We'd definitely go back some day!!