We really enjoyed staying at Joanne's place. It's solidly in Alfama but it's easy to get out and catch the metro or bus since it's near the Fado Museum. The living room opens onto a beautiful courtyard from which you can sometimes hear music coming through the neighborhood. The bedroom is quiet and cool, with a view of the river. All this, with not that many stairs/hills (compared to the rest of Alfama). The kitchen is well set up. The shower is strong and hot with good towels. We would definitely stay there again.