Isabel was lovely and met us at the Fado Museum which is 3 mins from the apartment. The apartment was perfect - light and airy, extremely clean, bright and with a lovely courtyard to look out over and here the bells ring and the locals chat! We loved it.
We didn't realise how to get to the main street of Alfama where all of the shops and little bars were which is very close - we kept walking towards the Se where it was a bit quieter and more local, but we did stumble on little hidden places and hear Fado drifting through the streets at night.