Elsa made us feel very welcome, the apartment was charming, very well equipped and she generously supplies all sorts of things from coffee to lavatory-paper; the water is wonderfully hot! We had a good feeling about it all. She is able to explain how to get about Lisbon and is full of advice about nice things to do.The area of Madragoa is very interesting with the narrow streets full of fascinating old buildings, tiled traditionally, and real Lisbon life takes place all around 102; Granny crochets and moves her chair into the shade from one side of the street to another, the children play energetically all around and the Seven Seas Cafe on the corner is the hub of local life. There are three good restaurants just one street down. Although the area is hilly it is a moderate walk up to Estrella (and the famous 28 tram), and the river is surprisingly near. An excellent apartment and an excellent relaxed host.