I really can't recommend Domingas's place highly enough: she is a warm host and all-around fantastic human, it's located within an easy walk distance to the metro, and the rooftop garden (and the view!) is a huge perk. The building is older and can be a little creaky, so worth bring a pair of earplugs if you're a light sleeper but nothing you won't experience elsewhere. Also, make sure to visit Domingas's art shop during your stay- I picked up some great things from her!