Alfama is the historic pearl of Lisbon and a great spot to learn all about the city. The owner actually drove me from the airport and introduced me to my neighbors which was so kind. Be prepared to climb stairs both here and in town, but this place is one block from the famous Lisbon trolley. It's also directly above a fabulous cafe, next a little grocery store and two coffee shops. You can sit on the street, drink an espresso and a tart and watch life go by. Active during the day but remarkably quiet at night. Highly recommended.