The apartment is just as described, perfect. The host was thoughtful and attentive. Sofia greeted us, and answered our questions with care. We enjoyed the local red wine left by Joao before heading out for dinner. Fado clubs dot the neighborhood, the Cathedral is on the corner, a Roman theatre excavation around the corner, and the tram heads up and down outside the door. Lisboa is a friendly, charming city; this was a base for exploration, and a place to observe the golden light through tall, shuttered windows.