Exactly like the description: a small family apartment in a very old building in the heart of scenic Alfama, simple but well enough equipped. The house is off the most crowded streets, so at night it is very quiet. No AC, but naturally cool because of the very thick walls and drafts from the courtyard. There are steep stairs to walk up to the house from the main street below Alfama, and of course no elevator, but Paula, our host, was there to help with our luggage at check-in and check-out.
She couldn't have been more gracious. Thank you Paula!