This is a wonderful apartment, very centrally located in Alfama. It is not large, but the space is used VERY well. We found it was a natural "home away from home", and looked forward to our return after a week-long trip north. Our host was warm and welcoming, and the apartment was in perfect order when we arrived (twice).

The apartment has a well stocked kitchen, and green grocers, butchers, fish mongers and bakeries are all within a 10 minute walk (a small green grocer is across the street). There are also Pengo Dolce grocery stores nearby, for a fuller supermarket experience, and a huge selection of small restaurants within walking distance. We used taxis only to and from the airport, and became familiar with the excellent subway system if we were exploring further away in Lisbon. A main subway stop is a 15 minute stroll (mostly downhill!).

The neighbourhood is fascinating, and you could spend your entire visit exploring the district (although Lisbon's centre is within walking distance). You will definitely appreciate good footwear, but even more the "Lisbon legs" you develop from scenic walks exploring everything the area has to offer. I have not felt so fit in a very long time, and it happens so gradually that you barely notice - how many vacations offer you that? Luckily there are also many small cafés in the area - great coffee, delicious pastries, reasonably priced beer, and friendly service - to help you pace your journey. A visit to the small café beneath the apartment is a must! The woman who runs it makes a delicious ``meio leite`` to start your morning (although the stove top espresso maker does a fine job as well).

The famous No28 tram runs in front of the apartment, with a stop nearby. It does begin running around 8am, which is perfect if you want to get an early start to your day. If you prefer to sleep in (and risk missing everything Lisbon has to offer), closing the double doors to the balcony in the front bedroom works well, and the second bedroom (single bed) is very quiet (and dark - perfect for a sleep in). I preferred waking up to the sound of the tram - the most pleasant alarm clock I could ask for.

My rating for the apartment may reflect the afterglow of a remarkable trip to Lisbon, but I would recommend it to friends without hesitation, and would return to it again in a heartbeat.