I stayed for twelve nights at Rodrigo’s apartment and it was up there with the best Airbnb accommodation I have had. I arrived late afternoon and Rodrigo was not able to meet me personally but his friend Patricía, who lives nearby, was on hand to greet me. The location is fantastic: right in the heart of Bairro Alto with easy access to Príncipe Real, Rato, Chiado, Cais do Sodré, and Baixa. It goes almost without saying that this place will not suit those for whom five flights of steps (80 steps) is an issue. But for those with the mobility, the climb is well worth the effort. The views front and back (and even side if you count the dinky elevated porthole-sized window) are terrific and characteristic of this wonderful city. This is the quintessential Lisboa of Bocage and Pessoa; the streets become merged into an undulating mass of tile roofs as life plays out to the receptive gaze. I particularly enjoyed the little front balcony (and there are two) that has just sufficient room for a cup or glass, plate, and sketchbook. You could never get bored here with the changing light, with even a shimmering glimpse of the Tejo to beckon. The facilities of the apartment were well matched to the price, and I appreciated the washing machine and iron for a long stay. The hot water is very hot and plentiful, and the shower positively luxurious compared to some I have encountered in Portugal. The streets can be noisy at night but the glazed French doors to the balconies do an effective job of screening the sound at night. Inevitably for a rooftop apartment, the ceiling is steeply pitched but you only bump your head once (mine came within the hour) to remind you, so caution is required. Rodrigo was a model host—attentive without being intrusive—in easy contact by email or text, and Patricía was extremely friendly, a wonderful advertisement for Portuguese hospitality. I can thoroughly recommend this apartment.