Susana's place is modern, chic, comfortable, well laid out and nicely appointed. The decor is warm, with lots of nice touches, and not fussy or overly busy. The location is excellent. It's a short walk down from a major overlook where cabs and the famous #28 tram pass, yet once you're home, you feel you're miles away from the city hustle and nestled in the history of the Alfama.

We found plenty to do in the neighborhood--there are wonderful restaurants, and simply wandering around can be dazzling. It's possible to walk or take a cab into the center of the city, and from there reach other neighborhoods on foot, via cab or public transportation.

Susana graciously accommodated our shifted arrival time, and Katya, her partner who greeted us, provided a ton of good information about what to see and what to avoid in the city and elsewhere, which enhanced our stay.

The place gets wonderful light; you can throw open the windows, sit with a glass of wine and watch the cruise ships arrive and depart along the river. Susana's place feels like a small sanctuary that's up above a wonderful, historic world.