Small but quaint one-of-a-kind place, historic and close to everything, and Jorge is a super helpful host. The area around the castle crawls with tourists during the day/evening, but Graca is just as close in the opposite direction, and there you will find lots to see and do and fewer touristy shops and restaurants (also a big grocery store). O Prego, the resturant just steps from the apartment, is a wonderful welcoming place with good food and Fado.