We loved our stay at Ricardo's in Colares. He welcomed us warmly, with fruit and wine, and gave us great local tips. The village is small but with all we needed and central to the area for the beaches, Sintra, Cascais (1/2 hr) and Lisbon. We had a car! The apartment is airy and light (though not big) and has lovely touches like a reclaimed marble kitchen sink and hand carved branches for handles and stair rail. Communication was good; conversation was great.