Miguel was an excellent host. When we arrived he arranged for a friend to come and meet us and and show us to the apartment, which saved us navigating the windy streets after a pretty long journey and only a few hours sleep (this, I am certain, saved me and my boyfriend from some major day 1 navigational meltdowns) . During the weekend we mentioned we couldn't find the kettle - so he called round with a kettle AND a bottle of wine. Then on our last day he looked after our luggage and drove us to the airport.

The apartment itself is pretty small but very well equipped and perfect for a couple. It's tucked away in a quiet little corner of the lovely Alfama neighborhood, close to lots of interesting attractions and the crazy 28 tram service. The area is full of hidden gems so I'd say leave your guidebook at home and sniff our all the ace little family run places. Oh and there's a pretty amazing flea market on a Saturday too.