We loved staying in Maria and Felipe's apartment. We arrived in the dark, so were delighted to open the blackout shutters to a splendid view over red roof tiles to the blue of the Tagus. Flat is a good size with a sizeable kitchen and effective air conditioning. It is in the centre of the Alfama district so you step out of the front door into the winding alleys and stairs of this old part of Lisbon. Maria and Felipe are excellent hosts, responding quickly to our queries and proving useful and clear directions on how to get to their apartments and recommended local eating places.