We had a wonderful week in Andre's bright Alfama apartment. As a Lisbon native who can only visit once or twice a year and for only a week at a time, I try to enjoy the city at its fullest whenever I am there. The Andre's place is ideal for that job. Look out the window and you see the river. Walk out the door and you are surrounded by quaint restaurants, "mercearias", and hipster bars. We were at the flat in June when Alfama becomes one huge street party with live music, and sweet sardines, beer and sweet cherry wine sold on the street. Besides my own nostalgia for the "Santos" party, I think anyone would enjoy those smells and colours.