We LOVED our stay at Zé's place in Sintra. If you're going to stay overnight in town (which I suggest you do so you can enjoy the beautiful mornings and evenings when the day-trippers thin out), you MUST stay at Zé's. First, we arrived about 2 hours before check-in. Zé let us leave our huge suitcase and bags in one of her shops. She printed a suggested itinerary for our two days and recommended several restaurants and pointed us towards a delicious cafe lunch. The apartment was very clean and well equipped and is right in the heart of Sintra (2-minute walk to tourist office, 10-minutes from train station). Zé had two little bottles of a Portugal sweet wine and some crackers arranged on a tray with glasses for an apéritif on our arrival. She had bought bread at the bakery for our breakfast, and there was butter and 4 jam options in the refrigerator. We didn't try to cook, as we were only there for 2 nights, but I didn't notice any cooking oil or other cooking basics. The best part was that Zé lives right above and invited us up for Ginjinha and coffee our last night. It was wonderful to be able to share travel stories and learn a little more about Portugal. Oh yeah, I almost forgot, my wife forgot her phone in the apartment the morning we left, which she didn't realize until the Sintra train station. Despite its being early in the morning, Zé woke up to let her back in and she was very understanding. Thanks Zé! A wonderful stay in a beautiful apartment in a beautiful town (despite hordes of tourists, including us).