Paulo and Catarina's place was just what my girlfriend and I wanted for our last night in Lisbon. It lives on a street that is inaccessible by traffic at night, so it was actually very quiet and peaceful despite it being so close to the action of Alfama. The apartment itself is very well preserved and has so much charm, it will transport you back in time and deliver a great Alfama experience without lacking the modern desires - especially the bed, it was the most comfortable of all the places we stayed. To top it off, Paulo met us personally and was very friendly and efficient!