rachel's place was great, close to the metro & downtown, she was friendly, her dog was cute and liked pats (but not too much, he is a respectful dog). i especially appreciated the tourist map in the dresser, being a mappy kind of gal and i couldnt find one at the train stn. it was good. lisbon is cool. fado starts at 8 and ends at 11, but bairro alto starts l8