Emma's flat was amazing, and even though we didn't get to meet her and someone else was managing the rental space, it was a lovely homebase for us. Firstly, the view was beautiful. It's not quite the same angle as the one shown in the preview - probably a few houses off - but just as magical. A small platform and chairs were placed right in front of the window with the best view, and I tried to sit there whenever we had downtime.
The Alfama neighborhood is where everything is, but the flat is up above the waterfront and away from the typical hustle and bustle of tourists. One living room window and the kitchen window overlook a small church and a road uphill that leads to THE cathedral, but despite its proximity to major tourist places, it's not that busy. There's a small and very mom-and-pop cafe on the corner with espresso and decent sangria by the jar (seriously). Just to the north-east are tourist shops and cafes, including one that had really great tapas called Medrosa. Eat on their terrace and appreciate the fado being performed at the cafe just downhill without sitting too closely. All the streets are hilly and cobblestoned, so come with appropriate expectations. We loved the ambiance.
The reviews of the space are accurate; the ceiling in the bedroom drops dramatically, and you will probably hit your head when clearing the end of the bed and navigating around the door and dresser. We thought the bed should be reversed, and sleepers beware of sitting up sharply in bed rather than make it so difficult to walk around the bed. The living room and kitchen are adequate, and the TV has internet connection so you can log into your own Netflix account, if you're sitting around there instead of exploring the vibrant city.
The kitchen is quirky but has all the essentials, if a little oddly placed. Washer, sink, dishwasher, full-size fridge (for Europe), stovetop (hob) with matches to light. Nespresso-style machine. The flat is pleasant enough to want to sit around there.
The bathroom is small - the sink awkwardly placed, so if you have many toiletries, you'll have to balance them on the sink sides or place a stool close by to hold them. Water is hot and plentiful, at least for us. Might take some fine tuning to get the temp desired but holds the temperature and pressure.
Luggage storage at Camones made arriving on the night train to Santa Apolonia very easy, and brunch at Pois Cafe was filling. You can eat an easy and decently priced meal on the main street near the water and park, or be more adventurous and go beyond Medrosa to the other tapas restaurants around the corner. We will definitely return. Stay for more days than you initially think you should - you'll fall in love with the area.