Wonderfully attentive hosts. Tastefully furnished apartment in a local neighborhood. Close enough to the hustle, but far from the touristy nonsense.
Comfortable furniture. Fully stocked kitchen and bath. Thoughtful touches. (For instance: there were bag ties, rubber bands, Tupperware, fruit bowls, etc.)
That said, it wouldn't be the best place for those who are noise-sensitive--as Graca has more than its share of construction going on.
Still, recommend highly!