We've stayed in Filipa's apartment for 5 nights. The apartment is clean and big. She is a considerate host-gave us tips about transportation and dining out. Streets of Alfama are very narrow and even the taxi drivers have a hard time finding the address but still it's a must-see neighbourhood. When you live there, you feel as if you are a part of the history. The old and ruined buildings seem to have a soul for themselves :) Overall it was a lovely experience staying at Alfama @Filipa's place.