The APARTMENT and HOSTS: The apartment is nicely appointed, comfortable, clean, and contains all the kitchen gear for a short stay. The apartment is conveniently located for walking to many surrounding tourist attractions, including the excellent shops near the Castelo de Sao Jorge. Alexandra and Pedro met us on our arrival at the apartment. They were gracious and warm in their welcoming. They met our requests promptly. The apartment is cooled by breezes off the Tagus River. The Tagus can be seen from the bedroom window. The apartment's most outstanding feature is its location.

LOCATION: The apartment is located on the Plaza of the Palm (there really is a palm tree). It faces Sao Miguel Church. There is no better place to enjoy a slice of Alfama life--street cleaners, workmen, women with their bread for the day, children on their way to school, people walking their dogs, and the tourists by ones, twos and tour groups--on foot, by Segway and Tuk-Tuk.

Then there is the Fado. There are four eateries directly on the plaza and at least three on the alley way behind the apartment. Three of these are Fado Restaurants. The singing begins at 8:00 p.m. The songs and applause echo off the stone walls. Enchanted evenings.

As if the people and the Fado aren't enough, the plaza is crowned with a white cockatoo. It lives on the top floor of the building on the north end of the plaza. When it is out, it is a source of constant amusement for all who traverse the Plaza of the Palm.

I highly recommend the apartment on Largo de Sao Miguel.