Staying in Elena's apartment is a dream. Alfama is an incredible neighborhood, untouched by commercialism. I wouldn't want to stay anywhere else. Elena's apartment is incredibly charming, very clean and well-kept, and made me feel like I had my own little home in Lisbon. I loved having lazy mornings sitting in the attic window, or at the kitchen table with a view of the water. It is an older building, so you have to be careful with how much electricity you are using and so forth. But the space heaters kept it nice and warm and I never had any trouble. It was a perfect trip. Elena is extremely helpful and communicative, gave very detailed directions to the place and answered every question. You will not get a better host! I will stay here again when I come back to Lisbon!!