This is a lovely apartment, minimal but very well equipped, with great bedrooms and an incredible back yard.
The neighborhood is still a bit "old Lisbon," especially close to the tracks by the water, but artists live here, and it is close to some excellent family restaurants (including a phenomenal Angolan/Cabo Verdeano one two doors up), grocery stores, and a quaint water museum -- all within minutes by foot. Graca, very gentrified but still lovely, is next door.
The train and metro are very close, but the walk may be steep for those from flat countries. We founds taxis within minutes. There is a lift once you arrive.
The apartment is sparsely furnished -- Fiona is no hoarder -- but completely tidy, bright, large, and funky, with fresh air even on hot Lisboa summer days. Very well-equipped kitchen with the sharpest knives of any AirBnB I've been in, Le Creuset saucepans, dishwasher, laundry machine, great pulley clothesline. Lots of cleaning supplies, dishtowels, TP, etc. The master bedroom has a full height door to a thin balcony, 100% Lisbon and luxurious, though this is not a luxury apartment, but rather a very nice (slender, funky) one that is very well-maintained and with character.
Now, finally, about the yard. It is extremely beautiful and peaceful. The AirBnB photos didn't really make it clear how it was laid out.. The back door, off the dining room, leads to a long elevated walkway that brings one to the garden. Past the garden is an artist studio (not open to guests but part of the apartment) tucked behind a loquat tree. The garden is mostly succulents, sage, surrounded by lemon trees, with a good hammock, hibachi-style grill, dining table, lounge chairs. You can see the bay, the air is fresh, there are songbirds and curious cats... all around are apartments but the garden feels private nonetheless, and absolutely lovely. If you want to take coffee in the morning, read late in a hammock, but still stay in an absolutely urban and central location, I'm not sure you'll find better.