Maria is undoubtedly the best host we have had for an AirBnB stay anywhere and her quiet apartment is perfectly placed on the edge of the quirky, lively, cobbled maze of Chiado, an up-and-coming district of restaurants and bars with delightful views over Lisbon. Plenty of room for us and our two grown-up daughters and we all slept soundly in comfortable beds. Clean, stylish and well-equipped, the apartment is on a narrow alley within easy walking of the metro at Baixa-Chiado, a good bakery for breakfast overlooking the Praca de Luis Camoes and the stop for the number 28 tram that hurtles down the hill, rattles across the flat grid of the Baixa and winds up the impossibly narrow streets of Alfama to the castle on the other side. Maria made some really great restaurant recommendations and urged us to take the train to Cascais and cycle to the beach at Guincho, which we enjoyed enormously. This was a top-class rental.