I have just returned from a month in Marco's apartment, and I loved every second. The place is very small, but oh, so nicely and cleverly laid out, so you miss nothing. It would be cramped for four people for more than a few days, but for one or two you can easily be happy there for much longer.

The view over the river is beautiful. I cannot describe how wonderful it is to wake to a sunset over the river, and with the bells of nearby churches, such as the iconic Sao Vicente (visible from the apartment), being part of the daily rhythm.

There is no balcony, but the apartment is just a few flights of stairs down from the Largo das Portas do Sol square and the viewpoint (miradouro) of Santa Luzia, one of the most beautiful places in the city to see the sunrise. Or you can do as the locals in the street: Sit out on the stairs in the evening and chat and enjoy the brief calm between work and dinner.

Alfama, though increasingly popular with tourists during the day, is still very much a local quarter, and the old people there supposedly still have their own coded language from the time where Alfama was one of the more dubious neighbourhoods, inhabited by (according to other Lisboettas) thieves and hustlers. However, this is an area where I feel completely safe, even travelling as a lone woman and walking home alone in the middle of the night. There is a gentleness to Alfama with its' fountains, narrow streets and melancholy, that gives it an enchanted feeling.

One night I was sitting with all windows open, the full moon was rising over the river, and the distant sorrowing notes of fado from the fado houses and restaurants further down wound their way up through the alleys. That is the kind of area this is.

Marco himself, though unfortunately I never got to meet him, was the perfect host, responding promptly and kindly, and even indulged me in my meagre attempts to learn Portuguese. And everything was neat and in order.

The situation of the apartment couldn't be better. You are very close to everything, including the legendary tram line no. 28 that will take you through most of the interesting neighbourhoods of Lisbon. Do spend some time in the Estrela Park or at the Mercado de Campo de Ourique - a great place to grab something nice to eat and more authentic than the hyped Time Out Mercado da Ribeira down by Cais do Sodre - at the end of the line.

However, if you find it difficult to walk up and down stairs you might find it a bit daunting, even if there is an elevator from the alley that could bring you up to the main street. But that would be my only caveat.

I really hope to be back again. I was sorry to leave, even after a month, and it felt like home.