If you are looking for a large, charming place in the middle of Alfama, this place is for you. It is just steps away from the entrance to the castle, and although this means streets packed with tourists during the day, they all clear out when the castle closes and the neighborhood reverts to a normal local neighborhood with a few restaurants catering to tourists after that. Pro tip: take a local taxi to get dropped off right at the castle, as Uber and other private cars cannot access the area without a special pass.