We just loved our stay in this perfect little apartment in Alfama, our favorite neighborhood. Excellent bed in a quiet backroom! The views from our windows and a tiny balcony included down to the river, layers of buildings, a church tower, rooftops, cafes, and lovely laundry lines (including ours!). It was in the middle of great restaurants, many featuring wonderful Fado performances (our favorite is Bohemia LX)... Alfama is where Fado began. There's a charming Fado museum.