I have just got back from Lisbon, where I stayed in Maria’s lovely ‘Casa Pombalina’ flat. The buildings here are over 200 years old and date from the rebuilding of Lisbon by the Marquis of Pombal after the great earthquake of 1755. If you like the idea of antique stairwells, wooden ceilings and floors, and period features such as an original stone sink in the kitchen, then this is the place for you. The flat is small but beautifully proportioned, and has been decorated in tasteful yellows and reds. My room was simple, but it had everything I needed, with space to hang my clothes, a table to work at and a comfortable bed. There is also a good internet connection. The bathroom area was very clean and had a good shower. Maria herself is a delight, and went out of her way to be of assistance if I needed directions or anything. She also provided me with a great map with which to explore the streets. As for location, it does not get much better than this for authentic Lisbon. Set in the atmospheric Rua Condessa, left out of the door is the Praça do Carmo, great for coffee and traditional custard tarts (natas) at the café Leiteria Académica in the morning. Watch the changing of the guard outside the old military ‘quartel’ while you eat. Turn right out of the flat and within a few minutes you are in the Bairro Alto quarter full of restaurants and bars (but my favourite for food was the basic but fantastic La Gruta de Camões in Miseracórdia; also try Faz Frio in Rua Dom Pedro V). There is some great music to be had around the Bairro Alto, including blues (check out the top of the Rua do Norte – sorry, can’t recall the name) and the traditional Fados (in many places). Make sure you don’t miss the view from the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara either, especially at sunset, and take the 3 minute tram ride down the vertiginous Calçada do Glória. All of the above are just a short walk from Maria’s flat. It’s a great zone and city for lovers of old and antiquarian books too (Livraria Histórica e Ultramarina in Rua de São Bento was a favourite). These kinds of bookshops are fast disappearing in Lisbon and elsewhere, so make sure you pay a visit. All in all, staying at Maria’s flat was amongst the best ideas I have had in a long time. I highly recommend both the flat and Maria’s hospitality.