A Survival Guide to this Apartment:
1- Have a sense of humour. Wonderfully located, steps away from the National Assembly and all kinds of chic and cool places, this apartment and its street are in another world, reminiscent of a Marcel Pagnol movie. As the street name says, it's the Fishmonger's Way. Sofia's mother Edite, who the neighbor shouted for to have come down, was absolutely charming and we were able to understand enough of her Portuguese to figure out how to work the gas water heater, stove, etc. When we ran out of toilet paper, the neighbor again helped to locate Edite, who promptly appeared at the upstairs window and tossed a roll to me, much to the amusement of the neighbour.
2- Get used to a few odours. Old apartments in Lisbon are known for their odours, notably ones emanating from the sewer drain. Keeping the bathroom door closed helped, as did turning off the gas heater immediately after using the shower. The fan in the shower seems connected to the gas heater ventilation, and I'm not sure this is the best solution.
3- Imagine you are at youth hostel from 1990s or early 2000s. Then the decor in all of its scrap book kitschiness and bubble gum colours makes perfect sense. It wouldn't take much more than 100 or 200 euros to freshen it all up big time and add a stronger lightbulb with a dimmer, but then they would probably have to up the rent...
4- Be creatively resourceful: Put the fan on the stool in front of the open window to help air out the place on sunny days. Use a pot to boil water. Keep the shower curtain inside the edge to minimize a wet bathroom floor. Brush your teeth in the kitchen. Straighten some crooked letters of the Lisbon sign on the wall. Have taxis pick you up or let you off on larger, more-easy-to-find streets nearby. Get to know your neighbors, as they have the know-how to help you with any problem.
5- Get out and about: Why waste your time having breakfast at home when you could be enjoying one of the wonderful cafés and eateries in the hood? Nap before dinner? Bars have lounge chairs for that too.
All this notwithstanding, the apartment is well located, and you have it all to yourself. Lisbon is a fabulous funky city, and this apartment is part of the experience - enjoy!