We had a great stay at Ricardo's cottage in Belem. It's a hip combination of old and modern -nice and airy- situated in a quiet neighborhood with easy walking distance to all Belem sites ( Contemporary Art Musuem, There are various options to get to the center of Lisbon, the best being a bus (~20 minutes). It had the best WiFi of all of the places we stayed.

Ricardo is a wonderful communicator -encouraged my rusty Portuguese - and is willing to make himself available as needed; he met us at the train station and helped to locate the Fado Festival.

If you want to stay near the river and out of the immediate tourist scene, this is an excellent option.