A clean, comfortable, well appointed, charming little flat on the first floor of a typical building for the area, it was a great base for a family holiday with my partner and toddler. The flat is half way up the hill on a narrow road between two 'squares'. For families with small kids, the lower square (where the famous flea market takes place) also has a park with a lovely view, and crucially a small playground well used by local families with a kiosk cafe for drinks, sandwiches etc. The 'square' at the top of the hill (Largo de Graca) is where the neighbourhood clearly does its shopping - good groceries, green grocers (fruit & veg), pharmacy etc - and a surprisingly large number of pastry shops/bakeries, as well as restaurants etc. The famous 28 Tram also goes down into the city centre from there, although getting on board may be a challenge, as it usually seemed to be totally packed!
Graca, and the flat, is indisputably on a hill, a really quite steep one in parts, which may be something to bear in mind for families with kids in buggies. We were very glad our buggy/stroller is small, light and quick to fold, as carrying the toddler in a sling/baby carrier, and carrying the buggy over steps, was the most efficient way up and down Santa Apollonia Metro station, at the foot of the hill. There is also a minibus service up the hill from just outside the Metro.
Paula very kindly lent us critical bits of baby kit, which was hugely useful: travel cot and sheets, trusty Ikea high chair and plate, bowl and cutlery, and the flat has basic, but necessary kitchen equipment. Our toddler was thrilled to discover a toy box under the bunk beds (coz other people's toys are always the best!).
Thank you to Paula for her warmth, help and hospitality; with arrival, checking in on us to see everything was well (it was!) and on our way... ...Oh, and for some delicous pastel de nata!