Check-in couldn't have been easier. We arrived via taxi, phoned Reuban, who appeared instantly. After showing us the apartment and explaining details, he took us on an hour walking tour of the fabulous neighborhood, including everything from monuments to secret short cuts to the best spots. His knowledge of his city's history was so helpful, to say nothing of his sense of humor.

The apartment contains everything a visitor needs, including a washing machine. The linens were new, the decor clever and well done, the kitchen complete. The only problem we faced was the late-night noise of parties in the street below, HOWEVER, in the end it didn't keep us up as we'd expected. By closing the French doors and the door to the bedroom, the noise is fairly well abated, though it tends to be stuffy even with the fan, so we opened all the doors, put in ear plugs and slept very well. In retrospect, we should have just gone down in the street and had fun with everyone else. Next time.