This is a terrific apartment: large, sunny, comfortable and in a wonderful location. This is a good place for two couples or a small family to stay, as it has two spacious bedrooms, separated by a sitting room that forms a corner between them. There is plenty of privacy for everyone, but also a nice couch and large round table for group meals and hanging out. We also appreciated the fact that one of the double beds had a softer mattress and the other was firmer: it is nice to have a choice! The kitchen, like the rest of the apartment, was immaculately clean and looked as if it had been renovated only yesterday. It was also very well stocked with all kinds of cooking equipment, as well as a dishwasher and a washing machine. The shower has plenty of hot water and excellent water pressure: only a little twist of the knobs will direct a very powerful spray, so make sure you know how to control and adjust the attachment before you aim it at yourself.

Ana was an ideal hostess: she sent very clear instructions about where to meet so that we could avoid carrying our bags up the one set of particularly long steps that leads to the apartment. She also responded immediately to all of my questions by email, text and Whatsapp. We were particularly grateful for her help in booking a taxi for our 5 am departure from Lisbon. It was a pleasure to meet Ana and stay in her flat.

I would happily stay here again, as the flat is in a very special location, nestled among a series of pedestrian streets and flights of steps that seem to be just on the cusp of gentrification. There are still many longtime local places here, as well as many newer small restaurants and tiny galleries, several of them on the square in front of the flat. There are also plenty of places to buy groceries nearby. Like all the most interesting places in Lisbon, this neighborhood is perched on a hillside, but if you approach the flat from São Cristóvão church via Rua das Farinhas, it is possible to roll your bags almost all the way to the flat, navigating only one short staircase (6 or 8 steps?) to get to the building entrance. If you don't mind going up and down a longer flight of stairs, however, the flat is located only 5-10 minutes walk from Praca Figeuiroa, Rossio and Martim Moniz, all with fantastic connections to transport. We took a tram to Belem and a train to Sintra, but walked everywhere else.

Although it rained much of the time we were in Lisbon (alas), Ana's apartment saved the day: it was a comfortable refuge from the rain and a quick dash across the square or around the corner to good (and remarkably inexpensive!) meals in little restaurants full of character. Cantinho de Aziz and O Trigeuirinho were particular favorites.