I highly recommend João's apartment. The location is perfect - away from the tourist crowds but everything in walking distance in the center of town. The two balconies are wonderful and a rare treat. João took time to explain the apartment and neighborhood to us when we arrived - you can tell he cares about your experience. The bedrooms are set in back away from the street so your sleep is undisturbed. If you want to live like a local, you have found the right spot.