We arrived rather wet after heavy rain, and found an enthusiastic welcome from Ana and Fátima, helped by some Port and some pastéis de nata (Portuguese custard tarts).

The apartment is ideal for two people; compact but fitted out very well to give plenty of space. The bedroom upstairs is spacious and light, with a lovely view out of the window across the roofs to the river. The trams rumbling past outside quickly become part of the charm of the place (and provided a transport service just about to the door, if you're too tired to enjoy wandering through Afalma on your way home). The area is a maze of cobbled lanes, steep hills and stairways, with sudden viewpoints, small shops and restaurants everywhere.

Don't miss dinner at Ti Natercia (recommended to us by Ana and Fátima) just a few doors up the road for a real local experience and great food - you're best to book.