Lovely spacious flat with two special views: one, from the sitting room and kitchen, of the Rio Tejo, the bridge that spans it and the Bairro Alto. The other is from the bedroom, of the old-fashioned, rickety yellow tram that is iconic in Lisbon and runs so close to the window that you can almost high-five the passengers. This is more a lots-of-stars hotel level of comfort and cool than anything I have experienced on Airbnb, with a charming mother and son team who live there and make you feel as if you do too. There is a fusion of the grand and the cosy. The central corridor is the size of bowling alley and kids in socks could have fun skidding down it all day. I pretended I lived in this flat and was happy all the time.