This is a fantastic apartment and Monique and Philippe are lovely hosts. The apartment is very spacious, light and airy, with unique, quirky furniture pieces. The rooftop terrace is big, with great views over the river; it's a great spot for relaxing over a meal or a few drinks. The apartment is really well equipped, with plenty of storage space and all the cutlery / crockery / glasses and 'bits and bobs' you'll need. At check-in, Philippe gave us excellent information about local services, public transport and things to do. Graca is a lovely neighbourhood, with a good selection of shop and restaurants. We loved the Delta Cafe: its pastries and savories were delicious and the 3 euro breakfast was great value. The restaurant Churrasco da Graca was another favourite of ours: they know how to cook a steak! The cod and octopus were amazing too. Union Empanadas was fantastic: amazing food and lovely people. We went to their pop-up in Alfama, which closes over winter, but the main restaurant in more central Lisbon is open all the time and they have plans for the Alfama patio, so it's worth checking it out in 2020. Lisbon's public transport is great and the Viva Viagem cards are easy to use and good value. If you want to go across the river, get a green one, as the white ones aren't valid over the other side. Uber works well and seems relatively cheap compared to the UK. Good stuff to do / see: Belem, Sintra, the Christ statue, a river trip (we did the one in the traditional boat, which was lovely), Alfama, a walking tour, the castle, the flea market (Tuesdays & Saturdays)... I could go on... and on!! The people in Lisbon are warm and friendly; the city feels very safe; and everything stops for pedestrians on zebra crossings! This was our first time in Portugal, but it won't be our last!