Ines’s apartment is an oasis of style and calm in the centre of the old city. Huge and airy ceilings, and wonderful light, stylish decoration that retains the 200-year-old features but updates then with modern bathrooms, massive bedrooms, an even bigger sitting/dining room, a cool kitchen, three bathrooms, a laundry, a Gone-with-the-Wind staircase to enter and, finally, a large, quiet balcony overlooking the gardens to the rear that can comfortably seat a dinner party. We were amazed how quiet the streets were, and how pretty and preserved, given they were two blocks from one of the main drags. But the real bonus was to be able to immerse ourselves in the whole Lisbon experience by staying in such a fabulous apartment in a grand old building in one of the most beautiful of Lisbon’s cobbled hill streets. Unbeatable.