If you're looking for charm rather than luxury in a compact, convenient space then you can't go wrong choosing M's apartment. Excellently located in the fringes of Bairro Alto, right by the Jardim de São Pedro de Alcântara with its glorious views and the endearing Elevador da Gloria that leads down to Restauradores and Avenida da Liberdade it is a great spot to base yourself. Yes, there is washing hanging out of the neighbours' windows, yes the Erasmus students pairing off in the bars just around the corner will be noisy if you leave the windows open, but those things just add to the authentic character of the place. The water in the shower is plentiful and hot, you'll sleep well in the bed and after the steep climbs up the hill to get here you'll be grateful of the comfy sofa to sprawl on and the consumable gifts that M left you when you arrived. You won't have a view of the Tagus, you won't be surrounded by chic neighbours but you will get great value and a charming and helpful welcome from M (via the neighbour acting as an English speaking interpreter).