My husband, a friend, and I stayed in six different places during our October trip to Portugal, including an eccentric old hotel in Chiado, a converted convent in the Algarve, an eco-resort in a national park, and three Airbnb apartments. We enjoyed them all for different reasons, but the one where I would have most liked to have spent more time was the Tree House. I’ll know to book earlier next time, because this apartment is a popular rental, for good reason. For me, it was the coolest space in the hippest neighborhood we visited. Cais do Sodre is on the waterfront, a vibrant area convenient to the train station and the incredible Time Out market. In the immediate neighborhood was no shortage of interesting, non-touristy shops and restaurants, and we could easily walk to other neighborhoods in the center. For our too-brief two days, the Tree House felt like an ideal home in Lisbon. Ines and Antonio’s thoughtful welcome included fruit, jam, and fresh bread from the amazing bakery below. Quality linens, noise-cancelling windows that opened to lively street sounds and river views, and just a cool, classy, bohemian aesthetic that artfully blends old and new made this an extremely comfortable place to land. Yes, the stairs up to the apartment are steep, but the staircase is wide and the steps are solid—it wasn’t that hard and it was totally worth it! Thank you for your warm hospitality and great taste, Ines and Antonio!