My wife and I lived for a full month in Miguel's place, and I can't imagine coming back to Lisbon and not staying here again. There are two main reasons for this: the rooftop terrace and Miguel himself. The rooftop has a gorgeous view of the castle, the river, and the Baixa. It's the perfect place to do a little sunning during the day, or to toast the sunset with a pre-dinner drink. But by far, one of the best bonuses is having a gracious and knowledgeable host close by tending his cozy and exceptional wine bar downstairs. Miguel made sure we were always taken care of, but never imposed upon. He always had excellent suggestions and helpful tips when asked, and he even went well out of his way to help us out of a particularly tight spot when we forgot to book for our last day. He is also a walking encyclopedia of Portuguese history. As for the rest of the place, the back courtyard is a wonderful private spot to breakfast in the mornings, and also offers a grill for partaking in that most Portuguese of pastimes. The front two bedrooms can be noisy when the windows are open, but the back bedroom off the courtyard is dark and quiet, and all bedrooms have tight and efficient windows which cut most noise when closed, as well as inside shutters which cut out all light and any leftover noise when shut. The flat has an on-demand water heater, which puts out great heat for the shower and dish washing. The shower head itself could use some upgrading, and there is a small problem with water spilling onto the floor while showering, a problem which plagues most European half-wall style showers of this type. The bidet is a nice plus. The wifi is fast but best accessed from the front media room nearest the router due to the thick stone walls throughout the flat. For long stays, the weekly cleaning is an exceptional bonus. There is no shortage of towels, pillows, and linens. The bed in the back bedroom is comfortable, although we did not try any of the others. The flat is located in Graca, just on the edge of the Alfama and Mouraria, which means it offers easy access to the prettiest old parts of town while being away from swaths of tourists. It is perfectly situated between two beautiful miradouros, but it is also very close to one of the highest points in town, so be prepared to walk always uphill back home. This was not so much of a problem for us, since we were walking off that delicious Portuguese food and wine every day, but it could be tough on some. Cabs and Ubers can always be found, and the #12 tram gets very close to the flat. Being there a month, I did a lot of cooking. The kitchen has an excellent gas stove, but an American-style long-nosed grill lighter would have been...