Arriving in Venice is very intense. The excitement and curiosity of visitors is combined with an almost total lack of clear signage about where to go or how to do it. So when I told Rafaella when our train was arriving, and that we'd come to the neighborhood by the #1 vaporetto (water bus) after dark, I was grateful when she said she'd meet us at the Ca' D'Oro stop and walk us to the apartment. We'd been in regular contact by text prior to the trip, and I felt comfortable that we'd be well taken care of.

She walked us to the apartment (it seemed like it would be impossible to find until I got a few landmarks identified--the alley off the main street between MBT and Bella&Brava Pizza, and the Ca' D'Oro stop is less than 5 minutes away). She explained that Venetian homes are small, as I bumbled through the narrow front door with suitcases and shoulder bags. Once we got through the opening, and stopped bumping our heads on the entry (we are both over 6-feet tall), we stepped into somewhere amazing.

The apartment was beautiful. The pictures don't capture the vibrant light and warmth and attention to detail that Rafaella and Marco have put into their place.

The main bedroom is large and bright, with new cabinetry. The firm, comfortable fold-out bed fills the living room space. The kitchen is everything you'd want to make simple meals (groceries are 3 minutes away at a well stocked market) with more than the basics for food preparation.

Rafaella oriented us to the neighborhood and pointed us towards two restaurants less than a block away. They are closed on Tuesday, but we ate dinner at one of them every night. It was fantastic.

We discovered that the apartment is in the perfect spot. It's in the middle of the "river of humanity" that connects the train station to Piazza San Marco. It's set back from the tourist parade to be almost silent even in midday. And it's got the "neighborhood" feel we were looking for. School children running. Laundry hanging from windows. Neighbors talking. Workers pushing carts. Water taxis picking passengers at the end of the calle.

Rafaella was a very responsive and gracious host. I have only praise for her hospitality, her beautiful home, or how welcome we felt on our trip.