We spent four days in Mariano's flat and it was not long enough. The apartment is spacious but homely, simple but full of character. Six windows look out onto the canal, the nearby bakery makes the best ever 'Veneziana' (or as it is locally called, 'focaccia') and Tintoretto's house is just a few doors down. We did not meet Mariano, but Natalia welcomed us warmly and keeps the flat in immaculate condition. Cannaregio is beautiful by itself, but also a great starting point to visit Venice and away from the throng of tourists - apart from our small crowd, including two teenagers, a granny and a lively four year-old.