Maria’s apartment is one of the very last that exist in Venice: a magnificent palazzo where the host actually lives, and where her family has lived for generations. Not some faceless tourist letting company. An actual home, with history, with a kind, elegant, and gracious host. The apartment was gorgeous, so tastefully appointed, with a beautiful terrace that was perfect for morning coffee. It is steps from everything, but in a quieter district of the city away from the tourist throngs. Our room was always made-up on our return. Fresh flowers, fresh water in the fridge. Maria was the most gracious host you could hope for. You are lucky if you can stay here.