Listening to singing gondoliers passing below makes this apartment magical and watching the bin barge collecting the rubbish at 8:30 in the morning makes it real. You know this is Venice full of tourist delights but it is also a working city that works like no other - and for us, seeing and understanding the extraordinary lengths it takes to keep the the whole thing ticking along was part of the wonder. If you like running, bring your shoes - my run down to the 'Salute' will stay with me for ever - though do remember to take a gps phone with a good signal and fully charged battery with you if you ever want to get back!

The location is just perfect - it's close to the train station and piazzale Roma for buses and hire cars, it is a short walk to the Rialto, st marks and the accademia. As it is just off the main tourist thoroughfares, the restaurants were that little bit quieter, little bit better quality and little bit more reasonably priced. Having a small supermarket down below the flat is incredibly convenient. The gelataria nearby were the best we came across in Venice. (Ps for veggies, starting to tire of pizza and pasta, the Zucca restaurant is superb and should not be missed)

We were a family of 5 but the flat will happily swallow 8. The table and sideboard are gorgeous pieces of furniture, my daughters chose to share the 'queens bedroom' rather than each have their own and I could have spent many an hour more, out on the balcony watching the world pass by. That world can be lively, but once it quitens down, the silence reigns supreme. One should mention the steps up to the flat - but if you are fit and healthy enough to consider traipsing about Venice for several days, then they won't be a problem for you.

And to help you across into this time warp called Venice is Luca. He is the most gracious and welcoming host. Gives a full briefing on how the flat works, great for advice on restaurants, places to visit and trips to the islands.

We wouldn't hesitate to come back and can't think of any where else we would rather come back to.