We were met at the vaporetto stop by Mario's colleague, Ana, who led us through the winding passages to the building housing this delightful apartment. While there are 89 steps from ground to the top floor, where this flat has gorgeous views over the roofs of San Marco, they are worth it - just don't forget something you meant to buy from the very handy supermarket nearby. The flat is top rate.

Particularly good if you have tickets for the Fenice - just 5 minutes away on foot.