Paolo is a most charming host, and we spent 3 wonderful nights in his property. The ground-floor apartment is a renovated studio where his grandfather once worked as a stucco artisan. It is completely private and must be about the quietest place in Venice! On the walls hang paintings by Paolo's father, a well-known Venetian artist. The spacious bedroom has very high ceilings, two tall windows, and a fine old wooden floor (especially nice in winter in a country of cold stone floors). There's a big closet, too, with lots of hangers. The small kitchen with its sweet red-and-white decor has everything you need to prepare simple meals, including a microwave. The bathroom is compact but of high quality, with all new fixtures. There is also a tiny living area with two very comfy reading chairs. Every room has one or more radiators, so you'll be cozy on cold winter nights.
The location is absolutely ideal. We arrived from the airport, and with the Alilaguna ferry (€13 one way), our arrival was simple. Paolo met us at the ferry stop, and it was a 3-minute walk to his place. The immediate neighborhood is among the least touristy in Venice, yet some major attractions are close by, including l'Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. We loved sitting out in cafes at the charming Campo Santa Margherita (the polar opposite of San Marco Square--populated mostly by locals) and Campo Barnaba, with its vegetable boats. And if you feel a need for sun in the dark winter alleyways, head for nearby Zattere, which seems to get sun all day long. In the early evening, it's fun to get a glass of wine and finger food (everything for €1) at the nearby Cantinone gia Schiavi. (Stand at the bar or bring your food outside by the canal like a local.)
All in all, a wonderful experience! We can't wait to go back. Thank you, Paolo.