I am giving this wonderful space five stars despite (and partly because of) the fact that it has a lived-in character and some slightly eccentric mechanics. If you want a place that is spotlessly bare and antiseptic, this isn't it—there are lots of books and trinkets and extra linens and drying racks, and the heat needs a push-button reset once in a while—but it is full of gorgeous antique furniture, and in an incredible location. Even after a night, you feel like it's where you live. Although we didn't meet her, Carmen was an exceptional host, attending to every message right away and even doing research (and haggling) for us when we needed a taxi. Highly recommended.