A great apartment, located in a gorgeous, converted real honest-to-god palace.
Mendola is a little sleepy town that was once a well known posh vacation spot for the rich to whom it offered and still offers access to a number of gorgeous, now mostly empty walking trails leading up to the most breathtaking views imaginable.
As the town is no longer a destination, most businesses rely on motorists that only pass by. The road through Mendola is spectacular - it snakes up the mountain in twists and turns that test the driving skills and tax the machine - a real driver's paradise. Throughout the day a number of fancy cars and motorcycles pass by, stopping only to get a bite to eat, a coffee or a gelato and the town's businesses deliver exactly what is demanded. This means that the restaurants are open for breakfast and lunch, but also that the whole town shuts down for the night. For the few that wish to stay there, there is a little corner store that has fresh bread early in the mornings (very little left by 11) and offers a limited number of other necessities during the day (please do try the strudel, the owner makes it herself and it's great), but the choices are poor and any more involved shopping requires a trip to Ruffre. Not that the Ruffre store is gigantic, but it offers a much better inventory for only an hour or so of a hike or a 15 minute bus ride. In the words of a Ruffre local whom we asked for directions to their supermarket - "our supermarket is not very super", so be aware of the limitations before showing up and complaining.
As we are hiking people, who prefer being away from touristy destinations, this was exactly what we were looking for. We loved the little town and were thrilled to be the only ones on the hard trails, scrambling up the hills in the rain, but that may not be what others are looking for, so if the comforts of civilization are what you're after, then this place may not be for you. For those who prefer things off the beaten path this is an absolutely fantastic experience. The trails begin behind the building you'll be living in and go on forever, taking you up the mountain to some of the most spectacular vistas you can imagine. Yes there is highway access to the middle of some of the hills we've climbed, but that doesn't offer the experience of walking through quaint villages, almost vertical pastures filled with inquisitive cows and friendly donkeys and visiting the now mostly empty shelter structures, where one can stop to cook a meal, refill on water or sleep in an emergency.
The apartment itself is clean, comfortable and well appointed, the hosts great and helpful to a fault. This is a real treasure, we were honored to have this experience.