A perfect five weeks. We loved the apartment, its size and design. We loved the garden, with olive and lemon trees, birds, turtles and three cats. We loved the neighborhood — a place of real people, far enough from the tourist hordes, but 15 minutes walk to the heart of it. And we loved Francesca, too (if you're allowed to say that): she was charming, generous, informative and responsive. Our only hesitation about telling folks how great a time we had is that the listing will get too popular, and we won't be able to go back.