A beautiful apartment in an exclusive, tree-lined neighborhood just outside the Porta Romana. The lovely Francesca, who lives above with her husband, met me at the appointed time. There was a cake on the table of the newly restored kitchen.

The place was quiet, clean, and being across the river in the Oltrarno, more like being in day to day Florence. Only caveat: after a day of walking through the city, it's a LONG walk back to the flat. But a beautiful walk, so pace yourself, and you'll be glad to be back in Maurizio's sanctuary after a day of being jostled in the crowds of -- come on, the most beautiful of cities on the planet.