Grazia is a lovely host, and the apartment was perfect for us. It had everything we needed (including a/c for the unusually hot nights while we were there). Being just south of the river was ideal - easy walking distance to all the sites, but an escape from the tourists in the evenings. Grazia was very kind and easy to deal with, and was very forgiving and relaxed when we were almost late to check out (beware the queues at the car hire!). We'd love to stay here again.