We are still talking about our tremendously good fortune at having chosen to stay with Daniele and Clara.

Our room was marvellous -- clean, comfortable, good reading lights on each side of the bed, great shower and bathroom, all details considered and in place.

The kitchen was well-equipped and full of light each morning and we had a number of fine picnics there.

The location was away from the crowds, yet within very easy walking distance to everything.

Mostly, though, it was the extremely helpful and thoughtful presence of Danielle and Clara themselves. Our privacy was fully respected, but if there was ever a question -- how to get there initially, best routes to walk, where to eat reasonably and not expensively, what was worth visiting and where we would be better off with a guide - they were there and extremely helpful.

They were conscientious hosts -- clearly outstanding in our experience - making this their focus and work, not just a chance to make an extra few dollars on the side of otherwise busy lives.

We salute them and thank them for everything.