This adorable stone cottage is unique. Every room is on a different floor, connected by stone steps going up and down. With small rooms, tiled floors and an incredible collection of books and cds, it feels like staying at the home of Professor Hobbit. Highlights include the bathtub and plenty of hot water, and the host’s generous larder of local milk, prosciutto, cheese and olive oil. You can hear the busy road traffic, but it’s much quieter than other neighborhoods with cafe tables right under your windows.