Sandra and Leonardo's apartment is a totally chilled out little spot - an oasis just five minutes walk from the heart of the old town. It's clean and comfortable and the original 19th century timber ceilings are a super cool view to wake up to. Sandra herself was a great host to us - the family lives above so they are there if you ever need anything or have a question - and she welcomed us with a genuine warmth and respect. Everything you could need is in the apartment - with the exception of a washing machine (for a long stay, I would ask Sandra's advice about how to do your laundry) - including ingredients for breakfast and great books to read. The outdoor patio is brilliant when the sun is cracking; it's where we had our late morning coffees, our first evening beer as the sun was setting, and where we chilled out after a day's exploring. Sandra has great recommendations for places to eat and things to do, and while six days weren't nearly enough to squash them all in for our particular trip, the ones we did take her up on - like the late night upstairs market - were choice AF. 10/10.