Loved our stay at Leonardo's apartment. It's beautifully designed and really central. The downstairs area is quite cold and the heater struggles to heat it up on really cold days but the area where you sleep is nice and warm. The apartment faces out onto the market and the location is absolutely fantastic. However there are a few bars downstairs that can get very noisy until about 3am on the weekend. Leonardo had a lot of great suggestions - in particular upstairs at the market is great and Za Za trattoria is fantastic for steak.