We had an incredibly wonderful week with Antonio and Tanino, staying in their apartment, enjoying their garden and hospitality. What kind, genuine people! The nearby hike to the volcano was a powerful experience. We rented a jeep-like vehicle and drove all of the island's 40 km in an afternoon. Being off-season, many shops were closed and there were few people. We ate several times at Maurizio's restaurant which was also fantastic. The island is also a great place for running and bicycling.