Eleonora's place is absolutely incredible, a stunning Modernist apartment high up in Modica Alta, with amazing views over the city and the valley from a huge rooftop terrace. Our host gave us lots of great suggestions of places to visit in Modica and the surrounding area. The flat was so wonderful we hardly wanted to leave it, but managed to tear ourselves away and walk down into the old city to visit cathedrals and buy very special chocolate from Antica Dolceria Bonajuto. We also went uphill into the oldest part of the city and ate at Leonora's suggested restaurant Locanda del Colonnello di Failla Giorgio which we highly recommend. We also visited the Vendicari Natural Reserve which is about a half hour drive away on the coast - a breathtaking unspoilt coastline with white sands and clear blue sea.