Valeria is the perfect hostess and her apartment, just off Piazza Kalsa, the old Arab quarter, at the edge of the historic centre and a stone's throw from the seafront too, is the perfect location for sightseeing on foot.

I was worried before we arrived that I'd bugged Valeria too much with millions of queries; but to each Airbnb mail, she wrote back with volumes of tips, advice, recommendations and the number of a superb taxi service (for us to get from Trapani airport to Palermo and vice versa at an unearthly hour). On arrival, Valeria was ready to greet us, show us the roomy, airy flat and spent lots of time marking up the map, pointing out the must-see places and those restaurants! We chatted as if old friends!

The apartment is ideal for a family of four, or two couples sharing, and has all you need and more to cook in (if you bother) and for a longer stay (washing machine for eg). It's comfy and clean, and spacious with amazing high ceilings for coolness. In early November when we visited it was still summer weather.

We didn't eat in at all, Palermo having such wonderful and cheap foodie options on offer. Here are a couple of good places to eat and hang out at nearby: (1) breakfast at Bar Touring (turn right out of the door, turn right again and skirt past P. Kalsa and straight up Via Terremuzzo to the small piazza where it meets Via Lincoln) - Bar Touring is famed for its Arancini and has delectable cornetti and pastries of all kinds; and (2) Valeria's tip - lunch/dinner at Ferro di Cavallo, Via Venezia just off Via Roma, just up from crossroad with Via Vittorio Emanuele: Ferro di Cav is fast, furious and yet still 'slow food' in many respects (Fri and Sat expect to join a queue of locals waiting) for its to-die-for and cheap cucina tipica siciliana. and (3) weather permitting, chill out sunsets seafront way at the Societa' dei Cannottieri (canoe/sailing club) outdoor lounge bar in the Cala bay. Again, a 10 min walk or less from the flat.

Valeria, we'll be back for sure as Palermo has more secrets to unlock for us, food and cultural! Thanks for your hospitality.