I almost booked a flat in the Ballarò but instinct told me not to, and when Lidia’s place suddenly appeared, I knew it was the right choice. First, the location is perfect, literally a 2 minute walk to the Massimo theatre, not much further to Quattro Canti, and once you suss out the area getting to the cathedral via the friendly Capo market takes about 15 minutes. It’s also about 15 minutes to walk to la Vucciria, Palermo’s notorious marketplace that doubles as a wild club at night. From here across numerous piazzas you can enjoy the city’s energetic nightlife, some of the best in the world. The train station is about a 20 minute walk from the flat straight down via Maqueda; everywhere in the city is within walking distance - the relatively deserted but atmospheric Kalsa, leading to the sea and port; Albergaria with its myriad churches - don’t miss the stunning Chiesa del Gesù, likewise the nearby Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio with its golden Byzantine frescos.
The flat is spacious with everything you need for a relaxing stay. There’s a rosso sofa in the living room not pictured, and a sublime portrait of James Dean. The bedroom has a comfortable mattress - the road is noisy outside so pack earplugs - there’s a balcony from which you can see Palermo’s stunning surrounding mountains, but for relaxation sit on the terrace at the rear of the flat, perfect for a coffee in the sun. Lidia herself was friendly and helpful, always fast to respond and a pleasure to liaise with. Her flat was ideal for my inaugural trip to psychedelic Palermo, everything really is just a few steps away.