I completely enjoyed my stay at Toni's place, which is tidy, well laid out, and offers great touches like a balcony with a view of the Norman Cathedral, a well-equipped kitchen, speedy WiFi, a framed Rolling Stone cover featuring Neil Young, and both blackout shades and noise-canceling windows in my small, comfortable room. The location is perfect (a 5 minute walk from the awesome Capo Market, yet set back from the central tourist area), and I appreciated the opportunity to stay in Toni's real home in a real Palermo neighborhood, not one of a series of sterile boxes that someone has bought as an investment. Toni is a mensch: thoughtful, responsive, and super sweet. He gave me and another house guest some extra bus tickets to see the Monreale Cathedral, made me coffee, hung up my laundry to dry, offered to let me use some of his groceries the first night when I got in late and hungry, and was very gracious about my accidentally melting down one of this plastic water boilers. As an extra, I enjoyed Toni's taste for 70s-era American rock n' roll. There's nothing quite like coming home to a Guns 'N Roses-themed doormat and a host who is quietly listening to The Band in the living room.