It's gone midnight and we're stood in the Piazza Duomo. I'm eating an orange and almond gelato that tastes almost too good to be true. All around us families and lovers stroll by; children play on the marble steps of the cathedral, street musicians perform, there is laughter and chat from the nearby cafes that border what must be the most beautiful public square in Italy. As I gaze up at the honeycomb stone of the Duomo- silhouetted against the squid ink sky I feel genuinely lucky to be alive. This was our experience most evenings during our recent visit to Ortiga. Not only this- throw in the authentic Sicilian street market (a foodies' paradise), the abundance of five star restaurants, the quality of the wine, the meandering streets filled with life and colour, the ubiquitous ancient history, the regular swimming spots to cool off in that dot the island, the ice cream for breakfast!, the most stylish bar we've ever been in (Cortile Verga- is a must), the nearby beach of Fontane Bianche, the warmth, wit and effortless cool of the locals and you have what must be the dream holiday. And Salvo and Stefano's place is slap bang in the middle of all this, hidden away down a quiet alley way. It's the ideal place- large cool rooms, a well stock kitchen- we rustled up mean Spaghetti Vongole one night- clean and modern bathroom and a wonderful sun terrace. The perfect location for the perfect holiday. We both would recommend Cas' Muri and Ortiga very highly indeed. Grazie Mille.