First the house: it was as though we were the guests of a local aristocrat. The high-quality furnishings, the extensive art collection, the chilled wine in the fridge, the citrus trees loaded with ripe fruit, the amazing terrace with a view over the Ionian Sea, every need anticipated and satisfied - this house is part of Laura's home, and it really shows. Then there is the hostess herself: Laura was full of information, provided without prompting, and then she left us mostly alone. Laura checked in on us a couple of times to make sure we had what we needed (included medicine for my wife's sprained ankle that she recommended, and even sent a message to me detailing what to ask the pharmacist, in Italian). She made us feel almost like family. And as with family, it was hard to say goodbye.