Wow. Amazing. My friends and I had only one night in Palermo, and Gianfranco insisted on helping us make the most of it. He drove us around to the sights we most wanted to see (the cathedral and catacombs), escorted us to what we didn’t know we wanted to see (cuatro canti and a beautiful fountain and church), took us for amazing gelato and cannoli, and even drove us out to Mondelo to look at the ocean—all in one afternoon! He had excellent advice, was patient with my beginner’s Italian, and was unfailingly friendly. We’re already planning a longer trip back!