A beautiful place up among the rooftops in Ortigia, which is where you should stay if you visit Siracusa. Maria Laura has decorated the flat with an artist's touch, about the opposite of a sterile hotel room. Listen to the swifts carom around the sky at sunset from the balcony. Costanza the cat will stop by. In the evening, walk through the narrow medieval streets where pigeons zoom through like X-wing fighters. Follow your nose to a restaurant. There must be a way to go wrong, but we didn't find it in three dinners. Maria Laura and Antonio are the kindest of hosts.