La Kalsa, the neighborhood, is extraordinary -- it's busy at all times, including deep into the night, so if you're a light sleeper, this isn't for you -- it's also not for you if you have bad knees -- 130 steps to the flat, and a very steep staircase to get to the bedrooms and down to the bathroom at night. If you're hale, it's perfect. The balcony is small but has the loveliest view of the dome. Gorgeous places in walking distance, a wealth of food, both cheap and not, all great. Bars. Churches. Dogs. But the biggest selling point is the crumbling grandeur of a Renaissance palazzo. You'll be happy every time you enter the staircase.