Words and photos don't do justice for Gwendalina's apartment in Catania. The location, adjacent to the Piazza del Duomo is incredible... pass through a large door and up three long flights of stairs (the elevator to the first floor was too claustrophobic for us to use in the summertime heat). Turn the key in the lock and you're "home" in a super-cool (super-a/c), calm, quiet place. Noise was no bother, windows were solid - but I counter anyone not thrilled by the early-morning sounds and smells of the pescheria directly below (Scirocco Fish Lab, take-away, is amazing... square is hosed-down on Thursdays before frenzied Friday mornings). And the terrace? Again... strong smells of fried fish, but who cares with panoramic views from San Nicolo I'Arena to Etna to the Med? Above all, Gwendalina's apartment is clean, spacious (perfect for two couples with two huge bathrooms with ample water pressure), and a step-down kitchen+balcony that made me want to move to Sicily. Grazie mille, Gwendalina. Davide.