First of all Toti is a wonderful host. Everything you need to know explained plus all the best places to visit not in the guides. The flat is quite simply the cleanest, tidiest place I have ever stayed. Period. It is very well placed for the old town. And Palermo is old in a great way. The energy and coolness of the city comes alive after 9pm when even the heavy grey paving stones return the heat of the day!! Toti 's terrace is a must. Overlooked but not intrusively. It even had a brand new cooker. A great stay in a very hot city. ( it was 36degrees). Thanks.