Anna E Filippo couldn't have been kinder hosts--even coming to find me when I wrote to say that I had gotten lost in my car. Their place, named after their daughter Chiara, was the perfect place to spend the night after I dropped my pal off at the airport in Palermo, and I may be back the night before I'm due to fly out as well. It was quiet, sparkling clean, and the bed was a bona fide queen-sized mattress. The kitchen was well stocked, the shower was large, the heat and hot water were great, and the WiFi was so strong in the bedroom that I could download my podcasts and upload some new music--a real plus given that I have some long drives ahead of me. The ocean is a block away, there are shops and a bakery around the corner and, best of all, there's a fresh pasta shop nearby that sold me terrific fresh pasta and homemade pesto Genovese for 4 euros. Coffee on the terrace in the morning was lovely.