The first thing to be said is that Giuseppe is an outstanding host, very friendly and extraordinarily helpful.

As for the spacious, clean apartment, the location is ideal: Directly across the street from a public beach (and also private ones where you can rent a spot with a sun umbrella and lounge chairs). There are bars all up and down the seaside street, and we recommend Baraonda, just around the corner. Excellent coffee and brioche, tasty panini and other specialties and a super-friendly staff.

And around the corner from that: The Meat Shop, a very fine butcher for cooking at home, plus takeaway panini and dishes. Next door, there's a Tabachi for bus tickets. Off season, Bus #806 is a bit irregular, but once it arrives, you'll be in downtown Palermo in 15 or 20 minutes. Catch the nearby #101 for a quick ride to the main sights.

Mondello's main square, with its restaurants (quite a variety!) and supermarket is a good 20 minute walk, but what a walk it is, alongside the sea among the joggers, casual strollers and dog-walkers. Oh, and ask Giuseppe to point out the best gelato stand in Mondello. Seriously, every flavor is a revelation.

All in all, for a relaxing holiday punctuated with cultural detours to Palermo, this place would be very, very hard to beat.