This apartment was in a real Sicilian neighborhood, within easy walk of the main tourist site, Ortigia. Fabio and his father welcomed us as we walked up to the address, and were always available to answer questions and recommend local attractions. We started every morning at a wonderful cafe on Corso Gelone, Bar Milk and Coffee, with delicious espresso and a parade of fresh pastries coming from the bakery in the back. This is the real Italy, and a nice reprieve from the bustle of the island.