A beautiful flat upstairs in Franco and Rosanna's house in sleepy Malfa. Rosanna was away when we were there but Franco made us feel incredibly welcome, picking us up from the harbour, helping out with recommendations and even inviting us over one night for a delicious dinner (his friends catch the fish; he cooks it). Strains of Verdi and Pink Floyd coming up from the stereo downstairs and offers of cake and coffee. We all felt like old friends when we left. The flat is big and airy, full of beautiful old furniture, and the terrace is wonderful. Pottering around Salina, jumping on the bus to its handful of competingly stunning swimming spots was a total joy.