Scores of guests have already sung the praises of Milena's apartment and we join them; we recommend it highly. The location is perfect - seeing the magnificent cathedral every time one goes out is a great treat, as is the sound of its bells pealing. The apartment is bright and cheery, the kitchen is very well conceived for the space it is in, and is well equipped for preparing and serving even elaborate meals (which we did almost every day). The proximity of Capo and Ballaro markets makes food shopping a pleasurable adventure, but there are also good restaurants within walking distance (e.g. try Moltivolti in Ballaro quarter for a modern take, and Trattoria Vecchio Mafone, just off Piazza Beati Pauli, for traditional Sicilian, both of which serve excellent food for very reasonable prices). Bar Marocco downstairs has a great atmosphere and wonderful pastries, but you can also drink a Campari soda there before heading out to a restaurant. We didn't meet Milena, but she replied promptly and helpfully to our messages, and her parents greeted us at the flat with Wifi code, a bowl of mandarins and a plate of excellent Sicilian biscuits.