The area is a little run down, but coming from London, it was what we were used to. It comes alive in the evening with lots of places to eat, especially if you keep to all the back streets. If, like us you like to visit unusual places, then the Capuchin Monastery Catacombs are an absolute must. http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/capuchin-monastery
Take a train ride to Cefalu to paddle in the sea - very pretty fishing village