Nieves was the warmest and also the most practical and helpful of hosts. She immediately made us feel part of the family, adjusted her excellent cooking to account for my wife's gluten intolerance, and booked us into local restaurants and beach resorts (as English is not widely spoken in Puglia).

Nieves (whose own English is superb) even helped us download maps and sat nav to my phone to assist in our local journeys, and happily provided additional meals (and paracetemol!) when I came down with a cold.

The villa itself is an imposing example of Spanish baroque (from the days when the region was subject to Spanish control) - part of a fascinating complex of buildings dating back several centuries. It is very atmospheric and peaceful - eating a superb dinner by candlelight in the courtyard as the moon shines on the olive groves is an unforgettable experience.

The room had all we needed, having been tastefully refurbished, with very good en suite. There is also an imposing - but very comfortable - communal sitting-room. Outside, a small pool provides the means to cool down, and there are various hammocks and loungers - and a bed! - to encourage relaxation.

The surrounding area, relatively innocent of foreign tourism, boasts a number fascinating towns, including Lecce, whose combination of intimacy and flamboyant architectural integrity made a deep impression. The beaches are excellent and the water the clearest I have seen. Wine buffs will relish the excellent negroamaro, malvasia nera and primitivo wines of Copertino, Salice Salentino and Squinzano.

All in all, a memorable, profoundly enjoyable holiday. We are most grateful to Nieves, and her husband Gabriele, for ensuring we had such a wonderful time, and for smoothing out every wrinkle so efficiently and generously. If you're coming to Puglia, you would be very well advised to allow Nieves to transform your stay.