I spent three weeks at Anna Rita's trullo. Anna is warm and responsive, and she and her boyfriend Andrea did everything to make my stay a wonderful experience -- including driving 25 minutes to fetch me when, after a plane ride and in the dark, I found myself in a small village on a road parallel to the one I needed to be on.

As Anna wrote in the burb, the trullo is old -- very much part of its charm -- and it has been restored with great thought, care and creativity. It is neither large nor luxurious, and as a country house it needn't be. But it is very comfortable. Tables and chairs are spread across the expansive terrace, the mattress provides great support, and there is good lighting and a highly functional kitchen -- the better to prepare all the vegetables, fruits and tasty treats you can't resist at the various weekly markets in neighboring towns. Which leads to location.

The trullo is close to, but very much apart from, civilization -- peace and tranquility abound -- and is ideally positioned for many leisurely day trips, My outings were bracketed by early morning coffee and a late afternoon aperitif on the terrace which looks out on an olive grove and a flower and herb garden. Come evening, the sky will be filled with stars. And sunrises and sunsets are often quite stunning.

After that first night, Anna and Andrea needed to be in Rome and Milan for work, but their friend and neighbor Mario stopped by every few mornings to see that all was well, organize a delivery of water, and help me with my Italian. He became my friend, too.

You might, despite precautions, be sharing the house with moths, millipedes, and a stray bee. None are harmful yet, for city folk, they can be annoying, As Andrea and Mario both areminded me, you're living in/with nature.

All said, staying at La Porta Verde is a terrific opportunity to discover the richness and beauty of Puglia's land, culture and people -- and to experience Italian country living at its most enjoyable. Grab it!