The old town sector of Martina Franca is a warren of alleys too narrow for what most Americans would consider a normal-sized car. To circumvent our getting into a tight spot we'd never get out of, Miky & Edo arranged to meet us just outside the old town. They had saved us a parking spot on the big street (parking spaces are at a premium), transferred our bags to their teeny Smart car, and off we went to the apartment. It's charming and spotlessly clean. Beautiful arched ceilings, stonework in the eaves -- just like the photos, except the bedroom was more spacious in reality than it seemed on the listing. After introducing us (in English) to the layout and the ons-and-offs of everything, they took the time and trouble to guide us on a walking tour of the old town. And what a beauty it is! By the time they showed us all around and we said our first goodbyes, we felt as though we knew the neighborhood. The apartment is an easy walk to everything -- shops, restaurants, the bread lady, the veggie lady and the "everything store," where we bought eggs, butter, prosciutto, cheese, wine... well, everything. When we regretfully said "arrivederci" to this incredibly warm and hospitable couple (whose smart car ferried our bags back to the street where we parked), we felt two things -- that we'd made friends for life and that we'd not just visited, but really LIVED in this exquisite Puglian town for a week. Miky and Edo, their son Francesco and Martina Franca will be in our hearts forever.