Ring the top button, marked MELLACE and enter a spotless and restful delight. Clean, simple modern design. Good ventilation. Good kitchen, if a bit cozy (has washing machine). Big living room w/comfortable seating (and TV, if you care for that sort of thing), good lighting, big windows with screens (also in bedroom, which has a large, soft double bed). Everything works, including the lights (no dead bulbs) and the locks (manipulating keys in some special tricky way is NOT required. Bathroom has tub and a shower wand. Plenty of hot water and towels. Then there’s the low price, with free wifi (ask for the code) too. Location: about 4/5ths of a mile from the center. That will help you walk off the excellent meals you’ll have, and remember: You can never truly comprehend a place unless you walk it. How to get there: Exit train station across Via Dieta di Bari and walk directly through fountained Pza. Aldo Moro, then through a one-block pedestrian mall (on the left side McD’s, Farmacia, Chipstar; on the right 2 kitchen stores (Max is the better) and women’s shoes. Continue straight through tree-lined Pza. Umberto 1st and at the end turn left (west) onto via (Domenico) Nicolai. N.B.: the () indicate that the first name is optional; it doesn’t appear on some signs. If you’re coming in one the airport shuttle train, just go straight from the exit, turn LEFT at the fountain and proceed as above. Keep your eyes and mind open and you’ll realize that on this trek you can find almost anything you’ll need: quick tailoring (hems and such), shoes and shoe repair (Petrulli is the best), grocers (a very nice one is just a few doors before No. 292), caffe bars dispensing the life-giving cappuccino, pocket supermarkets (I liked the one called Simply) a wine shop selling in bottle and bulk (at Simply I buy the cheapest acqua minerale on offer, spill it into the gutter and then cross the street to the wine shop, where I fill up with bargain primitivo under the spigot). Perhaps halfway along the neighborhood begins to turn a bit grubby and shabby. Do not be deterred. Despite fitful expressions of gentrification, no tsunami of redevelopment has rolled ashore, and this is still a zone of hardworking blue-collar people—friendly, too. The capitol of this part is at the corner of via (Pietro) Ravanas—the pink 1-story Mercato, which opens 7-ish, is popping by 11, and closes around 1 PM. There’s none of the festive décor and spit and polish offered to pampered Parisians; this is a serious working market for local people and restaurant owners, and its hundred-odd stalls are packed with gorgeous fruits, vegetables, meats (horse included) and housewares. There are even a few clothing and flea-market stalls. There’s nothing worse, to me, than going through a splendid market like this with my hands in my pockets because I’m stuck in a hotel. Airbnb means I have a kitchen and can shop til I drop. I recommend you do likewise.