We enjoyed our stay at Paolo Maurizio Gasperini's place. It looks just as pictured, so no false expectations. Paolo's mom, "Mama di Paolo!" she introduced herself, opened the door just as we rang the bell, welcomed us in and bussed all three of us--me, my husband and daughter--once on each cheek.

PMG is a thoughtful host. He provided breakfast cereal, cookies and toast in tin boxes; there was juice and water in the refrigerator, and in the cupboard there was coffee, sugar, tea, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and the basics that people need for cooking. We brought our own toiletries, but there was plenty in stock--paper towels, toilet paper, liquid soap, shampoo, conditioner, razors, and even sanitary napkins. My daughter and I were very grateful for the hair dryer. There was a clothes iron, but we couldn't find the ironing board, haha, so we ironed clothes on the bed downstairs.

When we realized that we didn't have the password for Internet access, we were frantic. Paolo's mom had given us his number to call in case we needed anything, but we couldn't get through. The man at the phone store (yes, there is such a store!) said we were missing a digit. For 50 cents, I used the store computer to email Paolo (and quickly check my inbox too) for help. He came the next evening and showed us that the password was on the Internet cube! He was very nice.

The only wrinkle was that the blankets and especially the towels smelled of cigarette smoke. It bothered my husband, but the problem was solved after laundering the towels. And as long as we didn't cover our faces with the blankets, it was fine.

All in all, we enjoyed our stay at PMG's. The little supermarket at the corner didn't have everything we were looking for, but it had a decent bakery, good greens, some nice ice cream, and, of all things, also offered horsemeat!!