At the mercifully quiet and view-kissed top of a charming old building, Giovanni’s one-bedroom was both very elegant and very comfortable; the perfect balance of ancient and modern that only Italians seem to manage. He checked me in in person and showed me its many features and amenities. Each evening after my long working days it was a pleasure to return to such a sanctuary and sprawl out on the comfortable furniture beneath the warm wood ceiling and dim play of streetlights through the balcony doors. The kitchen and bathroom were impeccable and well stocked. A DeLonghi coffee maker and all manner of small household appliances were availed in beautifully-milled cabinets. The bedroom itself offered the flexible option of being fully light or fully dark, by remote control. The only off-note was that my passport photo had be reported immediately to the police; an all-Italy requirement, apparently, but no less disconcerting.