Oliviero's apartment in the old up-town is a very nice place for staying where all the action takes place. It is quiet, cool, nicely decorated and very central. I would certainly recommend it if you want to experience an authentic Italian community. Be aware that there are no supermarkets (only small shops) in the up-town, so do all you shopping before you go up by the cable track. Unless you want to go out dining, for which there are many options.