We just returned from a wonderful five-night stay in Eleonora's apartment in Esquilino. She is clearly a woman who loves her city, and it showed in the great suggestions she made for our stay. She also made restaurant reservations for us and booked us a taxi for the airport, and she speaks excellent English.
I wasn't sure what the neighborhood would be like before arriving, but it turned out to be our favorite in Rome. The apartment is situated half a block from a grand piazza with collonaded sides in which weekly markets are held, and is located midway between two metro stations. The neighborhood has the feel of parts of Paris or Buenos Aires, with its grand boulevards and vibrant streets. Everything is close by, from great restaurants to a supermarket, bakery and one of the biggest gelaterias in Rome. The streets always felt safe (unlike in many tourist neighborhoods) and it seemed like we were seeing the real Rome. This neighborhood seems vibrant, forward-looking and alive, in a city that can often feel like it is suffocated by history, by tourists and by gilded statues.
The apartment itself accommodated us well. While the pillows in one room were a little uncomfortable, there were three double beds - one of which was on a mezzanine above the breakfast area (our 11 year old son loved that). The bathroom was small, as is typical in European apartments, but it worked well for us. The kitchen and main bedroom look over a quiet courtyard, although you can sometimes hear the metro trains rumble far underground.
Overall, we would strongly recommend both the apartment and the neighborhood.