This is an extraordinary place: high up above the busy square in front of Santa Maria Maggiore, with pano views of Rome as you walk around the shared terrace. The apartment itself is very well appointed, with new fixtures all around and lots of kitchen equipment. You'll doubtless meet Colette, the neighbor next door, who is always up for a chat in Italian, English or French. Gemma was delightful: friendly, punctual and easygoing.