Are we in a big city? Are we in the countryside? Or in heaven? Waking up in Adriana and Alessandro's wonderful garden house to a chorus of bird songs was a lovely little confusion every morning. Then we'd chat a bit with our charming hosts over coffee before heading off into to city - which is easy and quick. Driving to and fro on our rented Vespa through jasmine-scented Via Nomentana even better. Saved the best coffee of Rome for our last morning, a few minutes' walk. Hard to leave, looking forward to coming back.