My fiancé and I spent four wonderful weeks at Domenico and Laura’s flat just off the Via Carini in Monteverde above the Gianicolo hill and just outside the ancient Aurelian city walls, an extremely pleasant neighborhood of Rome. The apartment is above Vascello, a local theater/coffee shop. The neighborhood, off the beaten tourist path, is charming, with good markets, coffee places, restaurants, bread and pastry shops, a nearby place to buy fresh pasta (da Simone Pasticceria), wine-shops, and one of the better local supplì spots we tried in Rome (da Simone Pizzeria). For us, there could not be a better place to stay in Rome. We loved our stay here!
The flat itself is very comfortable and well lit by three large windows and a large transparent door on a West-facing balcony. The small balcony, with a clothes-washing machine, gave a beautiful view of the sunset each evening. There is a small and handy kitchen with a gas stove and all the utensils necessary for home cooking. A cleaner came once a week, so the apartment was always clean. The space is bright and very livable.
Several buses (including the 44, 75, 115, and 870) give regular access to the center city. We liked to walk up the Gianicolo from Trastevere to look out over the city at the Acqua Paola, but when our legs were tired, it was always easy to get back by bus from the center city, the Borgo around St. Peters, or Trastevere. It was easy to get to Trastevere station, San Pietro station, or (via the 75, which goes there directly) Termini station.
Our hosts, Domenico and Laura, were extraordinarily friendly and accommodating. They made sure everything was in order at the apartment, and even went so far as to welcome us with a bottle of olive oil, tomatoes, and pasta (because I had mentioned I liked to cook)! They lent us maps and gave us precious advice about the area and the city. They invited to meet some of their friends, and always made us feel at home in Rome. It was a great place to stay and we hope to go back again!