What an amazing apartment, on the top floor of a 1920s quintessentially Italian building right next to the River Tiber in the Testaccio district of Rome. It is solidly built with high ceilings and full of character, enhanced by a fascinating collection of items from around the world. The kitchen is well equipped and there is a large dining table, which is bigger than it looks in the picture. Four people fit comfortably on the settee, which faces an enormous wall-mounted TV. The three double bedrooms come off the living area and each has an ensuite bathroom, which was blissful! When closed with the slats adjusted downwards, the outside shutters provide complete darkness in the bedrooms, much more effectively than any curtains I’ve come across. In the ‘small’ bedroom (which is large!), there is a soundproof door which effectively cuts all sound from the living area. The double glazing is also very soundproof and, with the additional advantage of having no-one above, the apartment is incredibly quiet. There is aircon in every room which is a wonderful respite after a day in the heat of Rome. As for our host, Maurizio, he could not have done more. Even before we arrived, he was more than willing to help, providing detailed information of transport alternatives from the airport and even offering to arrange a taxi driver to meet us. Maurizio met us at the apartment building and gave us a warm welcome. He showed us all the ins and outs of the quirky elevator and the apartment and gave us plenty of information and recommendations about local restaurants, walking routes, bus information and places to visit, which we found invaluable during our stay. He genuinely wanted us to enjoy our stay in the apartment and in Rome, and emphasised that we could contact him anytime about anything, no matter how small. The Testaccio area is outside the touristy hubbub but close enough to walk to some of the main sights, such as the Colosseum, if you are fit. Otherwise there are bus stops near the apartment, but be prepared to stand on the buses as they are well-used. There are food shops nearby and be sure to try out the gelateria and go to the Testaccio market, an indoor market with almost 100 stalls selling a huge variety of foods and all sorts of other products. Maurizio’s apartment was a real find and a great base for visiting Rome. Maurizio was the perfect host. We couldn’t have done better and the apartment will be our first choice if we visit Rome again.