Trastevere is the best area to stay in Rome if you want to feel a little bit Roman. It wasn't my first trip to the Eternal City so I didn't need to be that central. I liked being near great restaurants and non-touristy areas, though it's still easy enough to walk to the Colosseum and Forum. For Rome, it's a giant apartment and very modern. I loved having the Nespresso machine and capsules to combat jet lag. A/c in each room. No noise with windows closed. A lot of stairs but not a problem for us.