We stayed here for eleven fantastic nights and would love to return!

Our host, Paolo, was unavailable to meet us. However, his communications were excellent and we were expertly attended to by his friendly and helpful associate, Gianfranklin, who met us at the front door of the house precisely as scheduled.

Our first entry into the building was daunting on a scalding hot day. The listing mentions "not suitable for children and older people" - an understandable euphemism once we were there and climbing nearly 80 steep stairs to reach the attic loft. (There is also an open staircase within the apartment that could be a serious problem for young kids.)

That being said, Gianfranklin helped us with our bags and once we were in the apartment, itself, we couldn't have been happier. It is spacious and clean, has new and very effective air conditioners in the big open spaces, and was a pleasure to stay in.

The central location is superb for walking throughout the city. The neighborhood is not especially trendy - although there are fine stores and markets nearby - and thus feels very authentic. And the views from the apartment are terrific. (Plus, walking up those steps two or three times a day proved to be fabulous exercise - by the second day, we were scarcely noticing them.)

As a particularly gracious "plus," the apartment's refrigerator was stocked with a bit of fresh fruit, bottled water, milk, and some yogurt when we arrived. Other strong points for this listing are the washing machine, great natural light, robust WiFi, and ample closets and cupboards, all well fitted out with necessary items (dishes, glassware and cutlery, of course, but also table linens, dish towels, cleaning supplies, iron, ironing board, etc.).

We had a bit of a problem the first day with using the key to open the apartment door. There is a definite trick to getting the heavy wooden door unlatched - make sure to ask for a demonstration before you are on your own. Once you have the technique down, though, it's easy and reliable.

Overall: ENTHUSIASTICALLY RECOMMENDED