A beautiful apartment in Testaccio, in the heart of Rome ("er core de Roma"), in the heart of what used to be the old working-class quarter -- the best place to stay when visiting the eternal city. The apartment retains all of its main period features, though also has air conditioning and a very well-equipped kitchen (we used the juicer every day), and overlooks the old market square. It is also stuffed with books and cool artefacts on the shelves and walls which testify to Irene's many interests. She is also an expert on the local area and a delight to deal with, both before we arrived and during our stay. Grazie Irene!