For those “in the know” about where to stay in the eternal city, where to truly feel its’ soul, there is only Trastevere. The location, close to the Forum, Campo dei Fiore, the Jewish Ghetto and surrounding neighborhoods and attractions like Piazza Navonna and the Pantheon is unrivaled. Sure, you can stay on the other side of the river and be closer to the aforementioned, but then, you would miss Trastevere and all it has to offer.
Francesca’s residence is simply marvelous on many levels. It was built like a small fortress post-renaissance in a small, tranquil piazza, once home to many merchants, ergo, Piazza dei Mercante. Within a few steps of this location are truly wonderful, less tourist-driven restaurants, shops, and cafes. You feel more like a part of a neighborhood here than a tourist, because during your stay, the scale of the place, the lack of tour groups, the quiet at night makes one feel more at home. The apartment itself is set up along a single corridor on what most Americans would term the third floor. Once up a flight of stairs, at the far end is the master suite (“matrimonial” bed with full bathroom) with a views across the street of Chiesa de Santa Cecelia. Heading back towards the front is the dining room and up just a few steps from there is the living area, resplendent in bespoke cabinetry and furnishings. There is ample light in this beautiful room, making a perfect spot to rest after another 22,000 step day! Back down the hall is a bed room with two single beds,and then the kitchen. Though I truly love to cook, we only used the fridge to chill our beverages, since the cafes around here were so nice. Finally, back to the top of the entry stairs is the other “matrimonial" and bathroom. Traveling with a teen, we appreciated the distance between the two bed/bath areas and the privacy.
Then there’s the host. Francesca is a lovely young lady who made us feel totally welcome. We actually had the opportunity to meet her parents, which caused our 16 year old to comment, “they look so elegant”. True! We were also greeted with a delicious little surprise on our arrival-so unexpected and delightful. The communication and hospitality were first rate-perhaps my best experience in over a decade of apartment rentals in Rome. Brava!