Rome wasn't built in a day, and it can't be summed up in one night. It's best taken in instalments. This part of town is one that I want to return to. Outside the Servian wall south-west of the Aventine hill, and part-bounded by the Tiber, Testaccio grew up on the detritus of river trade, a mound of crocks that's a rich source now for ancient anecdote. Its culture is still extra-mural, and the old slaughterhouse area is becoming fashionable.
Sergio's neighbourhood is no more grungy than most others in Rome, but with at least four theatres in spitting distance, it's a creative place. And he's an original, of course, charismatic and genial! He provides detailed instructions for arrival, and welcomes his guest with a comprehensive explanation of everything needed. He's instantly friendly and outgoing. And in the beard stakes, he wins hands down.
The decor is bohemian, and there's an extensive range of leaflets with ideas for sightseeing. If you visit during a typhoon as I did, you might need to stay home and lounge on the bed; the wifi is reliable! The room is large and high-ceilnged, and although it faces the street, you'd probably need to leave the window open if you want to be woken by church bells. You have access to kitchen and bathroom, with perpetual hot water, and a fascinating integrated bidet for authentic Italian ablutions ... Sergio explains it all!
I slept well and woke early, and there's little more to tell. After a coffee in the morning I was soon off to the airport. But Testaccio has a vibe, and if I were returning to Rome without commitments, this would be a destination I'd like to explore further. Sergio can expect to hear from me again.