We spent a very enjoyable five nights in Francesca’s beautiful apartment in a wonderful old building opposite Santa Cecilia church, whose bells you can hear each morning. The sitting/dining room is a particular highlight. It is very lovely indeed and a joy to spend time in. The bedrooms are spacious (the master bedroom’s mattress is a touch hard), the kitchen is small but functional, and the bathrooms are fine (despite the temperamental plumbing). The furnishings throughout the apartment create a warm, homely ambience. The Wi-Fi was unreliable and the shampoo and soap seemed to be others’ leftovers. Trastevere is a very charming, shabby-chic area, full of ivy-clad buildings, cafes (we recommend 404 Name Not Found), bars and restaurants. Go to Conad supermarket on Viale di Trastevere for your supplies. The apartment is brilliantly located in relation to Rome’s main sights. The Colosseum is a 30-minute walk away, via the Bocca della Verita, Circus Maximus, and Palatine hill. Don’t miss the Protestant Cemetery, about a kilometre south, a peaceful haven close to sections of Aurelian wall, a lost pyramid, and the station for Ostia Antica. We’d love to stay at Francesca’s apartment again one day.