I had a lovely time in Cinzia's beautiful apartment, situated in a swanky part of Trastevere on a hill overlooking the town. I slept well in the comfortable bed and quiet building, and very much appreciated the strong wifi, regular heat, hot shower, and quick (by Italian standards) washing machine. Cinzia was responsive, helpful, and patient, and I was grateful for the contrast between her good English and my miserable Italian. The location is fantastic, with busses and trains galore, but it's also walking distance to my favorite Roman market (the fabulous Mercato Testaccio) to the Colle Aventino (which had a line of fewer than six people in January), to two of the most beautiful churches in Rome (Santa Maria and Santa Cecelia), to the non-Catholic Cemetery (where you can visit the graves of Keats, Shelley, and Gramsci), and to the Jewish quarter.