I had been travelling for a month and was a weary hour-and-a-half late due to a train date mix-up. "Jackie - I was worried about you," Paola called out from her window as one of her neighbours/friends walked me through the courtyard.

Paola's studio is better than what you see in the pictures. There's a lot of light. Great food in the fridge and cupboards. A view of the orange rooftops. Wonderful books. A perfect bed. Spotless.

After four days I was revived and travel-ready again. It is an ideal retreat/studio space. I would come back here often if I didn't live on the other side of the world. There's even a loft workspace.

And Bologna is terrific. Great moody medieval streets and architecture. Paola gave me directions to a local restaurant where I had the best meal for the best price so far in Italy.