This apartment and its hosts are wonderful -- so much so I am tempted to keep this listing a secret for our friends and return to Naples. The apartment has two large bedrooms, a center hall with a desk in it, and a kitchen with a sofa. There is plenty of surface area to spread out papers and books, and plenty of cabinet and closet space as well. The apartment is spotlessly clean, and comes with the basic necessities (soap, towels, garbage bags, etc.). The only warning: the bathtub cum shower is tricky to climb in and out of when wet: be careful. The apartment overlooks a vibrant street just off of Piazza degli Artisti. In the mornings it is alive with fruit vendors, bakeries, other food markets, and even a small freestanding coffee "hut" that delivers to local merchants. In the evenings and well into the night it is animated with three restaurants, one of which (at the recommendation of Andrea) offers wonderful fresh fish dinners at outstanding prices (the best frita mista I ever had). It's the fish market in the morning. At one story above ground (the "first floor" in Europe and the "second" floor in the U.S.), and with two tiny balconies, it's like having box seats for the theater of Naples. And yet, once the doors and shutters are closed, and the air conditioner is on, the apartment is quiet. I'm a light sleeper and had no problem. Around the corner in one direction is the Piazza, which is really a large traffic circle. There is the best bakery and gellateria we found in Naples right there, as well as a taxi stand. (Note that taxis are rare on Sundays, however.) At the host's recommendation, we also tried Oliva, a great pizzeria further down the block. A 5 minute further walk (10 in total) brings you to one of the metro stops, on the line that brings you to the National Museum (antiquities), the historic district, and the train station. Around the corner in the other direction is a pedestrian walkway leading to the main shopping street (also a pedestrian walkway) of the Vomero neighborhood. Vomero is an upper middle class neighborhood and the shops are upscale. Be sure to walk these roads on a Sunday in the early afternoon; though most stores are closed, the street becomes the neighborhood's promenade. A 10 minute walk then brings you to two of the three funiculars that connect Vomero to the historic district and city, below. At another 5 minute walk is the third funicular. The hosts are sincere and delightful. They are clearly fun loving. They have decorated the apartment simply and in good taste. They are eager to offer advice and help. Our plane was 4 hours delayed; yet they were good sports about being tied up that long, and even walked us (as weary travelers) till they were sure that we found a good place to eat and then put in a good word...