Really, you should just stay here. You’ll pat yourself on the back for finding the perfect blend of comfortable and intrepid; that sweet spot where ‘I want real Napoli’ meets ‘but I’m still a tourist and don’t want to be scared.’ We (my two kids and I) blundered our way around mini-markets, hole-in-the-wall wine shops, dodged scooters went to butchers, bakers, fishmongers, made friends, dodged scooters, learned the metro and buses, dodged scooters. And at the end of every day, climbed the steps to our mysterious eyrie, feeling a bit swaggery about how local and ‘Sanità’ we had all become. The flat is cozy, has everything you want. It’s a sanctuary. And Massimo is a wizard, a pied piper, rolling out all the right pieces of information exactly when you’re craving them. Stop guessing and go here.