This was my second trip to Naples and there was no way I was going to pass up the chance to stay at Angela and Marco's flat - right on the edge of the city centre's lively streets, markets, and workshops. It was a treat to imagine actually living here - up a winding stone staircase to a high ceilinged fourth floor apartment in a massive old residential block with one of those giant archways that open onto a narrow, cool street. What is special about their flat is that it combines familial warmth - cosy, comfortable - with an incredible view from (really tall) windows on the balcony: rooftops, back gardens, washing lines, a patchwork of stuccoed masonry buildings, with swifts whizzing past chirping, church bells, Italian voices, occasional (and thankfully, beautiful) singing, the wide sweep of sky and of the entire harbour...the mass of Vesuvius - all there! Angela and Marco shepherded us and our bags to and from the apartment, and made sure we were settled in ok - they are very kind, generous persons!