We had a great time at Paola's place in Naples. This is a gem. Literally at ground zero of the Centro Storico, right across from Pizzeria Sorbillo where visitors throng for the best pizza in Naples. We ate there twice right when it opened on Monday and Tuesday before we realized what a madhouse it becomes. Right on Via Tribunali there are great, friendly shops for bread, cheese, prosciutto and produce. We ate breakfast on the rooftop every morning and a snack and a glass of wine there every evening.

We made easy day trips to Pompeii and Herculaneum (20 minute walk to the train station), Capri (short taxi to the marina), and Positano (car rental by the train station), plus saw most of the sights in the Centro Storico.

The old city shows the wear of the millenea and is a little dirty, run down and touristy, which was as we expected. Paola's place was a nice respite. We were amazed to step through the wooden door into a quiet, 18th century courtyard. The steps are as advertised, and then the apartment is cool, clean, comfortable and (reasonably) quiet. As a family with two children, it suited our needs perfectly - with two pull out sofas and one master bedroom.

Paola greeted us and showed us how things worked. She's provided some nice notes on local restaurants and also pointed out all the sites. In addition to Sorbillo, we enjoyed Tandem (who can find fault with a restaurant that puts a bowl of ragu with bread on the appetizers list).