Giulia's flat is absolutely fantastic, Giulia herself simply extraordinary. Let's start with the location. The flat is in the heart of the historic district, just a few minutes walk from notable churches, museums, and the like, and literally around the corner from the two main pedestrian arteries. If you seek (as you should) the singular atmosphere of old Naples -- narrow streets that are essentially alleyways festooned with hanging laundry, colorful ornaments, and men and women singing from their balconies; a vivid street culture that is not overrun with tourists; an ineffable spirit of mystery much like a Caravaggio painting that folds light into darkness (and here, not coincidentally, is where Caravaggio lived for a time) -- then this is the place for you. The flat itself is even better than the photos suggest: spacious, stately, well-appointed, immaculately maintained. My family of four, with fussy and demanding 13-year old twins, spent a week here and felt like royalty. Simply to walk out of the flat, through the courtyard, and on to Via Atri, to exchange greetings with the superintendent, the grocer next door, and the waiters at the restaurant literally across the street (but this is not the one where you want to eat -- more on this in a moment), is to feel oneself an authentic participant in the everyday life of the city. But then there is Giulia herself, a woman of surpassing warmth and sophistication. Before you arrive you will already have been the beneficiary of her excellent and extremely helpful communication about arriving in the city, hiring a cab, gaining entrance to the building, etc. Then you meet Giulia, you melt under the heat of her fine graciousness, and you are treated to her suggestions about restaurants, museums, day trips to Capri and the Amalfi Coast, and more. When she tells you about the Teatro San Carlo, the world's first opera house, she sings a few notes from an aria. Her suggestions are gentle but firm and appropriately pointed: she will tell you, for example, that in spite of the fact that her building is just steps away from Sorbillo, reputed to be the best pizzeria in the world, you should instead eat at Grifo, just around the corner, where the lines are much shorter, the pizza every bit as good, and the atmosphere far superior (and let me add that Grifo also serves superb pasta, salads, seafood, etc. One must have the salade caprese of tomatoes, mozzarella, basil, and high-end olive oil , the best you'll ever have, as well as the fritto misto a la casa). In the all-important matter of fresh cheese, Giulia herself is a partisan of fior di latte; she will recommend you try it and compare its texture to that of the iconic bufala mozzarella. In sum, I cannot imagine a better arrangement, this beautiful mosaic of geography, hospitality, musical and culinary excellence. And one more thing: when I discovered that I'd made the stupid blunder of mixing up the days of our departure, Giulia took it upon herself to execute an online order of new train tickets. My family will forever be thankful to Giulia for our wondrous week in Naples in June 2019.