Francesca is an tremendously dynamic host, full of enthusiastic suggestions for great restaurants and places to visit. Her two-bedroom apartment is quiet, centrally-located and filled with elegant antiques. The kitchen, decorated with hand-painted Neopolitan tiles, is a work of art. The best grocery store around is Eduardo’s, a three-minute walk up to the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 248. Hop on the funicular nearby to glide downhill to the Via Toledo and Via Chiaia, the Neopolitan equivalent to Fifth Avenue or uphill to the Certosa, a 14th-century monastery with Baroque masterpieces and stunning views of the bay and Mount Vesuvius.