Alberto's apartment is about as well-placed as you could hope for in Naples' historic centre, with its narrow streets overshadowed by rundown grand buildings and churches, crowded with people and vehicles and (sadly) rubbish and graffiti. If you're prepared to brave the chaotic streets, it's a twenty minute walk from the main railway station and a little closer to the harbour. We took a cab, which cost us only €10, thanks to Alberto being there to pressure the driver down from an opening demand of €50 for the ten minute trip. The apartment has a full-sized bed in the mezzanine extension and a pull-out sofa bed in the living area. The mezzanine floor creaks, and there's no way you can use the staircase up to it without making a bit of a din, so forget about a quiet trip down to the toilet during the night. But the apartment has all the basics you're likely to need, including a washing machine. There are great restaurants and coffee and pastry bars nearby, and endless enjoyment to be had just wandering those amazing streets. Oh, and Alberto's present on our arrival of a packet of still warm sfogliatelle pastries was a wonderful introduction to this fabulous, infuriating city.