The apartment was great: it's the attic/former servants' quarters of the early-modern Palazzo Spagnuolo. We were greeted by Celesta's mother and sister, both of whom are quite friendly (a little Italian will get you a long way).

The apartment is a 5-minute walk from the Piazza Cavour station on the metro, which in turn is one stop from the Garibaldi/Stazione Centrale stop. Pretty much everything is within walking distance: the Duomo, the promenade along the Bay, and dozens of churches and palazzi.

The only note of caution: I would recommend avoiding the area to the left of the apartment after dark, as the streets are empty except for dealers.