We spent Christmas and New Year's in Valentina's spacious, comfortable apartment, located right at the crossroads to Spaccanapoli's holiday festivities. The crowds and cheerful noise went on day and night, but the apartment stayed amazingly quiet, except of course on New Years Eve when we got a spectacular view of the neighborhood fireworks! We stayed nice and warm, as the heating system worked very well. The wi-fi also worked perfectly.

Climbing the many flights of stairs turned out to be no problem at all; they're not steep, and we got used to them quickly. But that height means that water pressure isn't great, making the shower in the large bathroom very awkward to use; it's best just to use it as a sit-down bathtub. The shower in the smaller bathroom works better. It was very nice to have a washing machine and a balcony to dry the clothes. There was even an automatic dishwasher!

Though they were numerous, avoiding the tourists was easy - just turn left at the front door and you will find several traditional food stores, where we bought excellent meat and vegetables to cook in Va!entina's well-supplied kitchen. The location makes most places of interest an easy walk, even the ferry terminal. The Montesanto funicular is also close and gets you up on top of the Vomero hill.

We didn't get to meet Valentina, but she always answered messages quickly and helpfully. Her brother Marco was waiting for us at the apt, very patiently (since our train was late) and gave us great advice about local markets.

I'll miss the beautiful bells of Santa Chiara! And I'd recommend Valentina's apartment to anyone.