Paola's apartment among the historic domes is true to its description! A truly perfect place to stay to soak up the atmosphere of Napoli centro storico. The much-quoted 123 steps (accurate, my son counted them!) is a small effort for the views that await you up top. The apartment itself is in an old palazzo - Palazzo Spellini - which is unique in Naples for its elliptical courtyard. Faded, and crumbling in parts, this amazing building gives you the full Monty impact of what Naples is all about. It also lies on what seems to be the main road - Via dei Tribunali - through the historic centre, but I must add that this road is virtually pedestrian (dodge the Vespas though!).

All the key historic sights (Cristo Velato, for example, and the Chiesa San Lorenzo, Pio della Misericordia - housing the Caravaggio etc) are within a 5-10 minute walk. Via dei Tribunali houses the famous pizza restaurants of Sorbillo (opp. the door of Palazzo Spellini), and even better down the road is Di Matteo.

After a hot trips out sightseeing we found we could pop back easily to the flat as it was so central. The rooftop garden is a tranquil oasis with 360 degree views! A real treat to get away from the busy, if fascinating, streets way below.

Paola is wonderfully welcoming and is a perfect host and guide; she spent a long time explaining where to eat and what to see, and was on hand for any needs. Her apartment is the most well-equipped Airbnb we've stayed in! No need to fret about toilet paper, soaps, shower gels, towels, extra bedding etc! Everything and more is available. The door man below is also very helpful (we spoke Italian so that made it a bit easier when we chatted to him).

Needless to say, we didn't manage to take in all the sights in 3 days in Naples (one day taken up with Pompeii - we should have gone to Ercolano instead!). So we will definitely be back at Paola's! Hopefully sooner rather than later!

Thanks Paola for an amazing and privileged stay in la bella Napoli!