Our Stay at The Green Gate
Ardara, County Donegal, Ireland
I’m not quite sure how to start this review. It was such a unique and wonderful experience I am still trying to sort out all the emotions. Should I begin with the unspoiled beauty of County Donegal itself – so rugged and green and seemingly lacking of any major cities or industrial hubs to mar the landscape? It appears sheep farming, a small tweed factory or two, and fishing are the major businesses. Or perhaps I should start with the simple charm of Green Gate, a quintessential Irish cottage whose outbuildings were lovingly renovated into cozy suites by immigrant French philosopher, Paul Chatenoud? Guests can get a little more flavor of the man and his affection for County Donegal by reading his book “The Eye of the Ventriloquist”. A copy in English and French graces each room. But even if you don’t have time to delve into its pages, Paul’s love for this corner of Ireland is apparent everywhere, even down to his choice of homey, locally woven woolen spreads upon the beds and carpets on the floor. Upon arrival, don’t be surprised if the first being you meet is the wee “Bobby”, a perky Jack Russell terrier (mostly) who is the self-appointed greeter of Green Gate. The main cottage, where guests breakfast on a “full Irish” and gather to chat, is heated by peat logs in an open fireplace. The peat is dug from the ground and left to dry in a small stone shed with a thatched roof until cured enough for use. We had a view of this shed from the window in our room. It looks like the type of dwelling leprechauns would hide in.
Another area of delight are the local people who are refreshingly unaffected, practical, and resilient. Many wear “several hats” to support themselves and supplement their day jobs by selling homemade jams or soaps or by digging peat logs, etc. These are the kind of people who would drop everything to come to the aid of a friend or go out of their way to help a tourist. One of Ardara’s most remarkable personalities is Paula, Green Gate’s sparkling hostess, whose local knowledge and penchant for good storytelling made it such a joy to spend time there – she is the cherry on top of the sundae! She is also the host of a radio drama program on Sunday evenings on a local station. We look forward to catching it on our return trip!
If you are someone who expects grand, luxury accommodations and you live for shopping, this may not be the spot for you. But if you are the sort who longs for a break from the rat race, loves long walks through heartbreakingly beautiful landscapes, and enjoy conversation with interesting people around a dining table, there can be no better place to stay than The Green Gate.