Just when we thought we’d seen the grandest views of Ireland, we landed at Clare’s aerie perched on one of Caherdaniel’s highest hills in the ever-stunning Ring of Kerry. The near 360º vantage point of Clare’s home with floor to ceiling windows in the common area is jaw-dropping. Poor Clare, I couldn’t turn away to face her whenever she talked to us. And her incredible historical knowledge of the area goes far beyond what you’d find in any of the guidebooks.

A must-see: less than a mile from Clare’s house is the picturesque Derrynane Beach. Walk along the beach and admire all the various textures of rock, shell and sand. Then head toward Abbey Island (accessible by foot), you’ll see the gravestones in the distance along with the ruins of the Abbey, believed to have been built in the 6th century. This was my favorite moment of our entire trip!