We had just finished unpacking our car, spent from a long day's drive, when we spotted Vince and Oona making their way along the cottage to greet us. Their instant warmth and familiarity was a second wind. Vince quickly set to giving us a tour of the property that included its history, the lore and politics of the land, a poetry recital, dining opinions, geology lessons--all shared with the enthusiasm of someone who had just happened upon Malin Head. It is hard to disagree with Vince that this is a magical place and Vince and Oona have put together a wonderful outpost for exploration. The cottage looks out on the North Atlantic and is a manageable walk to Banba's Crown, the northern tip of the northern tip of Ireland. Words and photos fail. As we turned in for bed, we realized our mistake of booking only one night. There is too much to do and see in this little corner of the world and if and when, and hopefully when, we return we'll give it the time and attention it deserves.