It is impossible to overstate the wonder and beauty of Cnoc Suain. The peaceful sanctuary of the cosy and immaculately restored cottage, nestled into the gentle slope of the hill and protected by a regal old oak, was the most welcome home base from which to explore the ancient hills, valleys, mountains, rivers, beaches, woods, harbors, villages, and magnificent vistas of Connemara. Galway was an easy half hour away – close enough to visit at will, but far enough away to feel deeply in the countryside. Dearbhaill greeted us with a burning peat fire in the hearth and a fresh breakfast ready for our first morning (the best scones we found on our journeys!). The cottage is so tastefully and lovingly appointed, and while giving an authentic sense of the centuries it has harbored people from the winds and rains, it is also offers all the creature comforts we have grown to love in our modern world – radiant heated floors, hot showers, modern kitchen appliances, and good reading lights to provide opportunity to read by the fire. Dearbhaill and Charlie made us feel very welcome and gave us excellent advice on where to roam. They felt easily at hand if needed and yet gave us full freedom to make the place truly our own. My daughter and I were making a first foray into Ireland and covered 2200 kms in two weeks, and while we visited many very beautiful areas, Cnoc Suain remains the heart of our fondest memories and the place to which we will return, as soon as possible and for as long as possible.