Cecilia was there to greet us, offered a tour book and some local recommendations (bakeries, ice cream places, grocery stores), then left us to enjoy her apartment. It was huge (larger than it looks in the pictures), comfortable and spotless. The location was far enough (1-2 miles) from the tourist traps that we felt like we were in a relaxing 'normal' neighborhood. But the nearby amenities (amazing ice cream, pastries, and good restaurants) meant we didn't have to go far for our morning coffee or a meal once we got home from sightseeing.