Kostas’ Smaragda Rooms some three km out of Platy Gialos proved an ideal base for discovering Sifnos. The beaches of Chrysopigi and the tavernas of Faros are within easy reach, and nearby (car permitted) Exambelas has grocery stores for provisioning. Our studio had a shady backyard sitting area and was of generous size, easily accommodating the four of us. Outshining all, however, is Kostas, who owns and runs the place. He is very warm and friendly, and as a native of Sifnos is a trove of information on all things Sifnian, past and present. He is generous with his time, interesting and fun to sit down and talk with. We look back fondly to the days when we were his guests, and are certainly planning to return.