Magic. To be honest, if we hadn't stayed at Rena's, we probably wouldn't have liked Santorini. Even though it was off-season, it was still so so touristy by our standards. But Rena's place was an OASIS. We ended up spending most of our time around the apartment. Mostly taking daily treks (and I mean treks!!) down to the water. I don't know what it's like in the summer, but in early October we were totally alone down there. We swam, we kayaked. The kayaks really made it for us, we went all around. Water and currents felt very mild and safe. Just do not underestimate the amount of climbing you have to do to stay at this place and enjoy the water. There is a lot! But we loved it so much.

Also, the level of service at this AirBnB was WAY beyond expectations. Cleaned every day, luggage carried through ridiculous sets of stairs and pathways, balcony umbrellas opened and closed as appropriate during the day, candles lit at night. I also got help printing tickets and arranging transfers. All in all it felt like a new level of Airbnbing. Santorini is a bit of a zoo, but I think we would come back here just to stay at this apartment (or another of Rena's.) Oh and the apartment itself-- bigger than what I imagined. Take me back!!!