Ammos is as lovely as it is described, and just what we wanted for one week of holidays: situated so close to the beach that you can swim even before breakfast, and a ten minute walk from Ormos Korthi, so that it's up to you if you'll take your first coffee in town or enjoy it 'at home'. If you decide for the latter, chances are good that you will get offered a big plate of fresh figs from the garden to go along with it. Eleni and Mihalis are wonderful hosts, and so is Mihalis' mum, who bakes great sweets.

The kitchen isn't really equipped for cooking, but E&M are quick to provide anything you ask for. More than that: They really love the island, and are eager to let you feel the same. They took us on a beautiful tour to an abandoned watermill and a stunning old bridge off tracks, filling us in on the local history and customs.

Apartment 2 has a big private terrace on the second floor. It would need some shade to be useful during the day but, anyway, it is a beautiful place to watch the stars at night. And there are many.

We will be back to count them.