Preparing to travel this year was an unusually fraught and stressful experience due to the pandemic - so many forms, tests, certificates, and anxiety about what the reality on the ground would be like. But as soon as we stepped into the candlelit courtyard I could feel all my stress start to melt away. The apartment was absolutely perfect for our needs. It's near to supermarkets, bakery, great bars and restaurants, a stone's throw from the beach and a short walk to the stunning Old Town. It was spotlessly clean and tastefully decorated, with all sorts of thoughtful details taken care of - a selection of toiletries, kitchen essentials and so on. We arrived late at night to find Katerina had left us warm fresh baked pastries and a bottle of wine - such a lovely welcome! And the courtyard is a serene space - shady and calm during the day and romantically lit at night. But the best thing of all about the apartment is the hosts, Katerina and Periklis. They were warm and charming, but also discreet and considerate. Nothing was too much trouble. From the moment we arrived they made us feel absolutely at ease. We are travelling on for a few weeks around the islands but it's hard to imagine we will stay in a nicer place - they have set the bar very high for other hosts!