kastro villa 2: First, there's the view - literally breathtaking - i caught my breath when i first saw it and the spell didn't wear off the whole ten days we stayed. It's worth waking early to see a peach-coloured horizon and watch the sun rise out of the sea. The horizon also reddens in the evening as the lights come on in Kastro village below - utterly charming.

Then, there's Katerina, so generous and open, who it was our pleasure to get to know a little. she really thought of everything we might need at first - and more. Hard to imagine a more lovely host. Great suggestions about places to go and to eat too.

If you are planning to explore the island or beaches are your thing, you may wish to rent a car, unless you are an avid hiker. In this case, the villa is perfect. There are trails right out the door, most lined with the low walls of layered stone that wind all over the hills.

We rented a car and travelled the island from end to end, and we were still always within an hour or so of the villa. Take note, going up the driveway is a little scary, but we managed dozens of times with no problem. Just part of the thrill of a hilly Aegean island.

In a few words, romantic, moonswept, full of windows, light and spacious. Great memories!