Frantzeska's house on top of the village of Pyrgos is a beautiful, magical place. The structure is 130 years old and has been beautifully kept and renovated. It's part of the whitewashed structure of the village -- you can only get to it through winding alleys and stairways. Lots of stairs. We perched in the evenings on part of the roof, listening to the hubbub in the village square, watching the moon rise over the mountains. Frantzeska is warm and welcoming, bringing us cold melon on our first afternoon and a chocolate cake on our last. The house feels ancient and benevolent, with 20-foot ceilings and 2-foot thick walls, tastefully furnished (mostly with marble), and spotlessly clean. We slept to the sound of the roaring wind. Frantzeska and her beautiful house in that beautiful village is reason enough to book a trip to Greece.