Our hosts welcomed us with warmth and generosity. They shared many useful insights with us. Our accommodation was exactly as we had hoped: characterful, beautiful, peaceful, versatile, comfortable and clean. There were fresh flowers, pots of homemade jam and loukoumi on the dining table when we arrived. Plus plenty of essentials: coffee, olive oil, drinking water, toilet paper, soap, keys, wifi... We felt instantly at home. We loved the sounds of church bells, neighbourhood chickens and birdsong. It was a quick walk (marble steps) down to the heart of Ermopouli: an elegant town square with palms and orange trees, the shaded market street and shops with excellent provisions (not tourist tat), lovely cafes, and restaurants serving interesting local food with many vegetarian choices. We did delicious yoga above a bakery (inhale bread/cake, exhale bread/cake). We loved the rebetiko musicians at Oneiro. And the sea (5 mins walk away) was perfect for swimming: calm, clear and cool. All in all, a blissful stay.