This little pension centrally located in Katarados (15 minutes walk to Fira) is another world away from the sophistication and crowds of Fira and Oia, and that's not a bad thing. Its rooms are simple but clean and the town is quiet with a couple of inexpensive restaurants close by. There are views of the sea from the balcony, looking to Crete, rather than the Caldera. Maria, my host was extremely kind and friendly, offering me a generous breakfast in her living room, organising laundry, and ever-smiling. Thank you Maria!