This is the second year we've spent time in Stelios's slice of Naxian paradise on top of a hill in the village of Filoti. A beautifully restored villa with wild thyme and basil growing on the front step, indescribable views of Naxian mountains and village life stretching all the way down to Aegean sea and coastline and the village of Filoti itself which is so worthwhile taking the time to get to know. The leg strength you build walking the steps each down down to the village and back up again and the glimpses into peoples' homes as you wend your way back up through the narrow whitewashed alleyways. Naxos and Filoi for me equate to a certain paradise and Stelios the consummate host. We will be back. I recommend hiring a car and using Filoti as a base - it's a wonderful way in which to see all edges of the island walk the many trails the island has to offer and then a happy homebase to return to each day.