Georgia is a resourceful, artistic, kind, generous person, and has created something special out of this old cottage, amidst the ruins of others. You can sense her thoughtfulness, practicality, sensitivity and creative flair in the placement of every piece of furniture, every colour chosen, every facility and touch – from the bedside rose to the impenetrable mosquito defence systems.
The peace is extraordinary. The courtyard pretty and civilised. The roof terrace beautiful – the view gives you snatches of sea between the hilly peninsulas bounding Kissamos bay, and of vines and clay roofs and greenery. Birdsong (swallows) in the day, stars at night. Cats, though. Be prepared for cats in Drapanias. It belongs to them as much as to any human. This is probably true of Greece generally. Also dogs. Dogs may bark at you. My handy tip is to put your fingers in your ears and sing a little tune.
I was unlucky with the weather – the sea was mostly too treacherous for a swim. And the season hadn't really kicked off, so there weren't many buses and I couldn't easily get to any other beach. Mainly I borrowed Georgia's bike and pottered around locally, and found that everything else I needed for my happiness was already within reach – cafe, mini-market, taverna, bakery. I got some work done on my next novel, cooked a few meals on camping gas (there's a microwave but that isn't my thing), did yoga on the roof (Georgia lent me a mat) enjoyed lovely hot showers, and slept well on a comfortable bed in the total dark and total quiet.