Maria is a great host, very responsive and helpful. Her place is sweet and small, with a charming balcony to sit on. It is on edge of tourist zone and in a lively locals neighborhood. There is a great 24-cafe downstairs, Funkys, that bakes fabulous filo-dough pastries every morning. The only downside is that Funkys is also a draw as a late night hangout, so if you are sensitive to noise, it’s good to have earplugs.