Pamela and Emmanuel's well-deserved reputation for warm hospitality extends throughout the year -- even into midwinter in January. I recommend staying with them in winter (or spring) and avoid the tourist crowds and heat of the summer.

During my three week stay in January 2016 at their studio chalet, they were gracious and helpful. They picked me up at the airport, assisted with bus schedules, took me to the farmers' market, helped arrange a rental car for part of my visit, kept me stocked with firewood, and took a genuine interest in me and what I wanted to explore on the island.

The weather in January is cool but most days were sunny or partly cloudy with temperatures usually between 10 and 20 C (in the 50's and 60's F). There was one day with steady rain, and a few days with passing showers. But there were also several days when it was warm enough to lie in a bathing suit on the Amnisos beaches and (briefly) swim with a few other hardy locals.

For half my visit, I chose not to have a car. Even though their place is up in the hilly suburbs of Heraklion, it was easy to walk or catch the bus many places. Route 7 goes right by their front gate twice a day on weekdays. The stop for the Amnisos bus to downtown is about a thirty minute walk and runs about every hour. and late in the evening. The taverns in the next village up the hill, the beaches of Amnisos, and the Lidl food store along the main highway are all within walking distance. I used their bicycle to reach the trailhead for Karteros Gorge about 3 km away.

They helped me get a low, off-season rate on a rental car for the second helf of my stay. Driving was easy on the uncrowded highways but was a real challenge in the narrow streets of the cities and towns. On the few rainy days, I drove across the island to explore gorges and the sunnier south coast.

At the archeological sites, museums, and other sights along the way, there were no tourist crowds. For example, I was among only six other visitors when I toured Knosos. The Ventian old towns in Chania and Rethymnon were open and alive with activity in January, but the cafes are only half filled, mostly with local residents. It was easy to walk into any place, find a seat, and enjoy fresh fish and other Greek food.

With delicious food, gorges to explore, no crowds, mild weather, fascinating island history, and gracious hospitality, staying at Pamela and Emmanuel's in winter is a delight.