The essential ethos of AirBnB is truly represented by Maria and her place Demosophia. Maria embraced us as long standing friends rather than just paying guests but did so without intrusion. Demosophia is nearly two hundred years old and has been lovingly renovated and beautifully presented by Maria. The house is beautifully furnished and the traditional shutters keep the house cool on the hottest of days without the need of air conditioning although it is there if you wish. The secluded courtyard is a shaded, cool and fragrant oasis in which to relax and enjoy a drink of local wine or a BBQ amongst the 180 year old lemon and pomegranate trees. Maria’s family history of farming goes back at least 600 years in the town and so her knowledge and love of her birth town and Crete is always very apparent and easily enjoyed as Maria has impeccable english. Demosophia is situated about a five minute walk from the centre of Archanes which comes alive in the evening with many restaurants that offer a high quality but inexpensive local cuisine.
Archanes has an altitude of 400m and so has the less intense heat of the coastal area. It is about a 20 minute drive from Heraklion. However, although we had a hire car we used the reliable bus service to visit both Heraklion and Knossos (halfway on the same bus route). The bus stop is a 5 minute walk and the return ticket is 4€. The town itself has strong links to the Minoan history with its own small museum.
Archanes although not far from the northern coast is well situated to explore the southern area of central Crete with scenic drives through olive groves and over the southern hills offering stunning views back across the central plain and over to the southern coast. The south offers a more ‘bohemian’ beach with less of the parasol but infinitely more beach space. Also a trip south allows you to take in Phestos/Festos a Minoan Palace similar to Knossos, not quite so touristy but worth a visit.
Some tips for your stay: visit the Heraklion Museum first then Knossos as it then puts the Knossos visit in context. You can buy a combined ticket valid for three days, reckon on each visit being about two hours. Take the bus even if you have a car and get in as early as you can. Both attractions are 08.00-20.00. It’s cooler at Knossos and by 10.30 it is already full of hordes of large groups queuing to get in and standing around listening to their guides, it will easily add a further hour and much frustration to each of your visits and in the increasing heat when at Knossos. Enjoy your stay at Demosophia you will not be disappointed.