It's hard to choose the best part of our fabulous stay in an indescribable place, but first, I couldn't recommend these rooms more. Heading down the cliff out of the village of Ravdoucha are 4 switchbacks, each revealing breathtaking views. At the dead end is Ravdoucha beach (you'll probably see goats on the way!) and a nice room with views of the cliff behind and the rocky beach and sea from a lovely deck in front. Look up from the beach, and you may spot the outline of a goat contemplating the scene from the cliffs high above. That would be enough, but below the room is Thodoris and Rodo's taverna, "Wave on the Rock," where Rodo is the star. She moves gracefully between visitors, family, friends, and neighbors, making all feel welcome and at home. Cooking facilities in the room are basic, but we were far more interested in bringing home some ideas for Mediterranean cooking at home. Rodo was happy to share "secrets" of Cretan fare, which is a delicious, hearty, and fundamental variant of this uber-healthy regional cuisine. We ate at several other places while we were out and about. All were good, but none better than what was being served by Rodo, and her food came with generous servings of warmth and hospitality, so we always came back. My wife wanted to bring her home, but I had to tell her Thodoris and the rest of Rodo's family might object. Besides, it's probably illegal.

And then at your doorstep and beyond Ravdoucha Beach there is Crete. Go... it's amazing.