Avdou is a great place to get away from the crowds yet only 25-40 minutes from nice beaches. Eleni's place is very nice, a good size (only two of us) and pleasant gardens. The local taverna is ok too, a little further but still in walking distance is the Taverna Gonies. Several more choices in Mochos about 10mins drive. The hotels seem to monopolise the beaches certainly in this part of Crete which must be really annoying for locals- no space.