Panagis was a really welcoming host, quick to respond to queries and helpful with advice. When anything went wrong (e.g. heater in apartment didn’t work) he fixed it very quickly – his cousin appeared at the door within 10 minutes with a replacement. No wine bottle opener, and a quick visit to his cousin in the café below resulted in the loan of one. This seems to be their family ‘escape’ apartment when they visit Crete from the mainland, and it’s what they have arranged for themselves rather than equipped as primarily a tourist apartment. It’s not luxurious – the toilet/shower room is tiny, the kitchen is pretty limited, it feels small and closed in. But the bed is comfortable, it will be really cool in the summer (gets almost no sun, and there is AC), it’s convenient for everything in Spili, and it’s a good base for walking into the hills in the area. How noisy it is in the evenings will vary a lot; we stayed a week and only had one really noisy night (a Friday), the rest were just the hum of the restaurants below till around 11pm. If you can cope with the downsides, this is a very economical little apartment in a tourist-oriented little town up in the hills. We went on some very memorable walks from here.