Zafeirenia is a lovely host, and her place is a beautiful nest up in the mountains. Fresh apples, herds of sheep, and you can see all across the valley and into both ranges. The Cretan hospitality is a real thing -- both Zafeirenia and her father (who came to refill the heating tank one night, as well as see me off on my last day) were such a pleasure, and they'll make you feel extraordinarily welcome. I cooked most meals at home and there is a balcony/terrace upstairs, in the summer I'm sure it'd be great to sit out and eat on.