For our first week in Crete, we had stayed in the bustling town centers of Chania and Rethymno. That was very nice, but for our last few days we wanted a more bucolic, road-less-travelled experience. Sofia Maraka's charming place at Hawk Hill outside the tiny village of Koufos fit the bill perfectly. Up a winding drive through well-tended orange, lemon and olive groves (led by Sofia's genial husband, Teo, on a motorcycle), we were brought to a handsome contemporary home with commanding views of the valley and mountains.

The downstairs apartment where we stayed is well appointed, with a well detailed kitchen and bath. A bed with sound queen mattress as well as a very comfy sofa bed for our 12 year old yielded good sleep for us all. A big basket of ripe local fruits greeted us (maybe the juiciest oranges I've ever tasted) as well as a heap of eggs fresh from the neighbors' hens, plus house-grown olive oil, and jars of excellent home made preserves. Fresh milk and yoghurt were in the fridge. Yum! Name me a five star hotel that would make one feel any more welcome.

To our pleasure, we got to know Sofia herself a bit in relaxed evening conversation that ranged from the arts to environmentalism to the ongoing, real-life effects of the Greek economic crisis. Conclusion: she's a gifted artist, a lovely soul, and we most heartily can recommend her accommodations.