We had a really top class welcome, as we arrived in Kokkino Chorio just before midnight due to a delayed flight. Mina and her partner arranged for the local taverna to serve us, and then gave us an in depth guide to the Chanion region, with their own recommendations - despite it being past midnight! They also thoughtfully welcomed us with fruit, wine and excellent homemade fig jam. The description of the house was accurate - the views of Souda Bay from the house are glorious. The village itself is a traditional, Cretan village, and the experience is like going back in time. The pace of life is gentle, and the area is very quiet and peaceful. About the only sounds we heard were the charming sound of goat bells when the small herd were grazing further down the hillside, and occasionally raiding lush gardens and being chased away.

The house is spacious, naturally cool in the heat (and with air con in every room) and an authentic stone built village house, with vintage textiles and embroidered linens. There are two local tavernas, one is traditional, in the heart of the village and buzzing with life - one night the square had an ex-pat murder mystery dinner, followed the next night by a local band. The food is very good and the host very welcoming. The other (To Yaladiko, on the road to Drapanos) is quieter, in a beautiful garden terrace, lit by lights from the artisan glass workshop next door (and owned by the same family). The food is traditional, organic, with a modern twist, and delicious. The glassware workshop is well worth a visit, as they have stunning, original pieces all made from local, recycled glass. We expected to see more traditional local crafts in Crete, but aside from this place, we couldn't find anything in the time we had. Be warned - much of the 'handmade' textiles in the tourist areas are not the real deal.

Chania is a 30 minute drive from Kokkino Chorio, and the parking is easy and cheap. It's a good base for exploring the West of Crete, or for staying put and chilling out. There is plenty to see and do, and a week wasn't enough!