Staying at Erondas was the best Airbnb experience I have had. Even if you think you know Cretan hospitality, Eleftheria will carry you away. The apartment is bright and comfortable, recently redone but keeping its stone charm, and your host will provide you anything you need. The town is small and unspoiled, the water is crystal clear and you can literally leap in from the front door. Also from the front door is access to terrific mountain walks / runs / rides, as well as swims or boat rides to Spinalonga leper colony. Even if you don't visit, the view of Spinalonga is stunning in the famous Greek sunlight. All local food is fresh - homemade honey, wine, raki, cheese, yogurt is at the ready - and the only fish available was caught that day. Plaka was quiet in December but Eleftheria made up for it with her spirit! I will most definitely go back, as soon as I can.