I did this trip with a friend and colleague who grew up in Greece, though it was a first to time Crete for both of us. Chania is a larger and busier city than either of us expected, and it was a challenging finding our way to the old town in our newly acquired rental car. When it was clear we weren't going to manage on our own, we called Lena and she kindly came to meet us, and led us to the charmingly named Villa Minoos. It felt strange to me to drive on the old and narrow cobblestone streets, but many residents seem to do it.

The "villa" itself is a Venetian house on the edge of the old town. It's bones are good, and Lena has a great eye for decoration, particularly when it comes to colour. She gave us a photocopied map of the city and helpfully pointed out the nearby beaches, and the places where we would find good restaurants and shopping. These are plentiful a short walk away. The house is located in an area that North American realtors would likely call "up and coming"-- housing some locals, some recent arrivals, and a few tourists. There was a slight problem with the house on the first night that became a bit worrisome by the second. We called Lena and she came to see us within the hour, and offered a second house called Erofili, just around the corner. These kinds of moments are never something anyone enjoys, but the discussion we had with Lena was a civil and productive one. She understands her business.

Erofili suited us much better and we stayed there contentedly for the rest of our stay.