VanGos's magnificent home in Goulediana was the first property we visited during our ten day trip to Crete and the one which will remain in our hearts long after the rest fade away. The property is full of history, restored in the traditional style and lovingly tended. It also offers the best of both worlds: a place to spend the day amidst beautiful gardens, a pool, and truly unique grotto, OR easy access to Rethymnon. We availed ourselves of both. What really puts this property over the edge, however, is its owner. VanGos was an extraordinary host, unobtrusive but remarkably hospitable. He met us when we arrived late at night with a fridge stocked for breakfast and coordinated an even later meal at the excellent (and very well regarded) tavern Goules just steps away. He is honestly a "super host" in every sense of the word, available by text for concerns far beyond the call of duty--in our case, offering spot-on suggestions to fill our open itinerary on the western coast. We can't wait to return.